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HOMEBREW Digest #1479
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 94/07/19 00:32:42
HOMEBREW Digest #1479 Tue 19 July 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Mill efficiency, Fruit Flies, Japanese beetles (Ulick Stafford)
Filtering vs Fining (Jack Schmidling)
Up a Kriek! (Bill Rust)
Anchor Screwtops? (JEFF GUILLET)
thread21 (Chris Kinney)
Comparison between WYEAST British and London ESB yeasts (Mark Peacock)
get (Robert L. Striker)
Extract Syrup to All Grain (RAYMUN)
Re: Homebrewing in England (Tel +44 784 443167)
Liquid Malt Extract Yeast Starter/Primer (Chris Strickland)
racking (Chuck E. Mryglot)
Siphoning (Guy Mason)
Japaneese Beetles (Steve Scampini)
Help! Flocculation, clearing, etc. (Dean J. Miller)
Micro Beer Clubs (Bruce Kiley)
Good News/Keg Gaskets (npyle)
malt "fact" sheet (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
lactose help requested (Frank Haist)
Parafilm (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
underpriming/Boiling Kettles/Elf Moron Co. Beer in SD? (Barry Nisly)
Anchor bottle caps ("Dave Suurballe")
Pilsner wont clear. (Steve Matkoski)
Re: Jim Koch <tm?> (Greg Ames)
Mash and Sparge Times (berkun)
Tied House Peach Wheat clone? (Karl Elvis MacRae)
honey (Bryan L. Gros)
mailing lists (DONNA DeANGELIS-BLAINE Residence Dep)
unsuscribe (Barkin)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 1994 17:26:27 -0500 (EST)
From: ulick@ulix.rad.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Mill efficiency, Fruit Flies, Japanese beetles
Al K mentions a friend whose efficiency jumped from 22 to 29 after switching
from a Corona to a JSP Maltmill. I remember discussing this with Jack once,
as I had not noticed any significent improvement when I switched, and his
comment was that he hadn't either when he tested his Corona, and reckoned,
as I do, that many people
who use Corona do not set the plates close enough. I doubt if Al's friend
was 'shreding' his grains. My guess is he set it so no flour or shredded
husks passed, leaving many untouched rgrains. This is not an efficient
way to use a Corona.
Brian Gowland explain succintly why fruit flies are bad, but didn't know the
bacteria thay carry. It is the aerobe acetobacter, which make acetic
acid (vinegar). This is one reason lambic breweries encourage spiders.
They deal with fruit flies attracted to the sweet wort in open fermenters.
Jim ? recommends against the application of Sevin to hops to solve a
Japanese beetle problem. I must strongly disagree. You may as well feed
the Japanese beetles as spray on Safer (TM) products, and no old wives' remedy
worked for me last year. A beetle trap did catch quite a few, but I
worried that it attracted more of the bastards than it snuffed out. I did
hear of another remedy the other day-to go out in the evening and spray 'em
with a mixure of alcohol and soap, but I don't know about anyone else, but
I'm damned if I am going to climb up on a ladder to sray hops everyday. I
dusted with Sevin around a week ago (I would have preferred liquid, but
I had the dust on hand) and haven't seen a Japanese beetle on my hop plant
or roses since. The packet recommends weekly application, but I'll wait till
I see another one it. I will not dust for a while before harvest and everything
should be OK. But if your religion doesn't allow the use of 'toxic
chemicals', there are many things you can do to satisfy your god, but
they are about as effective as prayer for eliminating Japanese beetles.
Anyone know any critter that eats the bastards?
__________________________________________________________________________
'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s@&* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng.
Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556
| ulick@darwin.cc.nd.edu
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 94 11:52 CDT
From: arf@genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Filtering vs Fining
The following comments should be taken as they are intended, viz., my opinion
based on a significant investment in time, equipment and innate ingenuity.
You may feel differently based on your own experience but I pass mine along
for those who can use it.
A comment made by Al K. some time ago caused me to review my understanding
and procedures regarding beer clarity. He said something to the effect that,
my beers are not particularly clear, which roused no response from me because
it is more or less true. However, in defense, I don't bottle beer so he has
never had a chance to see or taste one that sat around, (undisturbed) for a
few months and secondly, I transfer my beer from primary directly to a 10 gal
keg and have the tendency to start drinking it far too early. The last few
gallons are usually clear but the chances of him stopping by at that moment
are rather slim.
The other motivation was.... toot! toot! My wedding reception. After much
pondering, Marilyn and I decided to get married in my garden and have the
reception in my house. This of course means the drink of choice is homebrew
and no excuses for cludy beer. The question was, how best to clear it?
I made 4, ten gallon batches (3 pilsners and one ale) and filtered one after
30 days and it is only marginally clear.
The next was transferred to another 10 gal keg with one tsp gelatine
dissolved in 500 ml of 170F water. After 10 days, I drew a pint or two of
turbid beer, after which it ran sparkling clear. I pumped the top half to
one 5 gal keg with a dip tube from the top and the rest into another keg from
the normal liquid tube off the bottom. There was no difference in clarity of
the two until the very bottom was reached when a bit of sludge started
running out.
After studying the sludge on the bottom and the manner of drawing, it seemed
obvious that transferring a second time was not necessary. My kegs have the
liquid tube bent toward the middle so they are about 1/2" off the bottom and
that seems to be all that is necessary to keep from drawing the sludge up.
There was a clear circle on the bottom about 2" in diameter which was what
was brought up with the first draw and the rest stayed behind.
The other two batches were/will be transferred from primary to keg with
gelatine and served from this keg. This is more or less the way cask
conditioned ale is cleared but it's nice to know it works so well at home and
with just old gelatine.
I have concluded that filtering may be appropriate for commercial operations
or homebrewers that like to fuss endlessly with equipment and some folks have
luck with Irish Moss but I vote for gelatine fining.
js
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 94 12:18:00 -0640
From: bill.rust@travel.com (Bill Rust)
Subject: Up a Kriek!
Greetings Brewer's!
Just a few questions regarding Kriek beers. My sister (bless her heart) sent
me a can of Brewferm Kriek extract for my birthday. Well, I would like to try
to do it justice with a partial mash recipe. While I was devising a recipe, I
came up with a couple of questions:
1) I've heard that Kriek is a Belgian (Lambic?) style ale made with wheat.
Does the Brewferm kit have any wheat malt in it??
2) I want to have the equivalent of 10 lbs. of cherries in the recipe, and
I read that the Berwferm kit already has approximately 6 lbs. worth of
cherry flavoring/extract. How can that be? It's only a 3 lb can. Do
they skimp on the malt extract, and should I adjust by adding more malt?
3) Any tips on yeast? I am entertaining the idea of trying a Lambic
culture, but I have never tried one before.
So far, I have come up with...
KRIEK #1
3 lbs pale 2-row malt
1 lb wheat malt
1 can Brewferm Kriek (hopped)
.75 to 1 additional AAU Hallertau pellets (45 min.)
4 lbs. cherries (in secondary)
WYeast #1007 (or a Lambic culture I can get locally)
METHOD (ala Dave Miller):
Single step infusion mash, 153 deg.
Ferment 1 week, 65 deg.
Rack, add washed and crushed cherries. Ferment 4 weeks
Rack to secondary (tertiary?, at least 3 weeks)
Prime with 1/2 cup brown sugar and keg
Age 6 weeks before tapping, 45 deg.
I have many extract brews under my belt and #2 partial is coming soon. Any
comments would be appreciated!
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| I can't say whether we had more wit amongst us | BILL RUST |
| than usual, but I am certain we had more | Systems Analyst |
| laughing, which answered the end just as well. | |
| | Shiloh, IL |
| OLIVER GOLDSMITH (1728-1774) | bill.rust@travel.com |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
- ---
~ SPEED 1.40 #1651 ~
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 1994 15:33:00 GMT
From: jeff.guillet@lcabin.com (JEFF GUILLET)
Subject: Anchor Screwtops?
John Keith Hopp writes:
>Plus, SA is reasonably cheap ($5-6/per) and the bottles are tough and
>reusable (as Anchor has gone to crappy screw-tops).
Huh? I just got back from the Anchor Brewery tour a couple of weeks
ago and they're not using screwtop bottles. They use the same bottle
for all of their beers (made especially for them by California Glass
Company in Oakland).
BTW, I don't have a problem with Jim Koch, either. I think he makes
a reasonably good bunch of beers (even if he does lie in some of his
commercials - he doesn't have a son who asked him the other day if he
was successful, for example).
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Jeff Guillet - San Francisco, CA - <j.guillet@lcabin.com>
"A little knowledge is a dangerous thing..."
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-- SPEED 1.40 [NR]: Evaluation day 74...
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 1994 18:00:10 -0600
From: Chris Kinney <cak7887@silver.sdsmt.edu>
Subject: thread21
I mailed a while back, but didn't get any response, so I hope this time somebody
can help me!!!
I have all the back issues of HBD on my hard drive and am trying to use
the program thread21 to search for a particular pattern and then output
to a file the issues that deal with that subject.
All I can get it to do is to search the first file in a directory, and the
search comes up empty no matter what!
Help would be much appreciated!
post here, or e-mail cak7887@silver.sdsmt.edu, which ever you prefer
Thanks in advance!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 1994 21:39:25 -400 (EDT)
From: Mark Peacock <mpeacock@oeonline.com>
Subject: Comparison between WYEAST British and London ESB yeasts
First, an HBDsummary (tm) from a couple of brewers who also tried ESB:
Mark Evans says about ESB:
It consistently pooped at high F.G. I tried repitching saved dregs with
some success; I got the FG down to about 1.016 or so, but that is still
high in my book for a 1.050 OG ale.
Eric Urquhart writes:
The yeast has the annoying habit of dropping from suspension early and
refusing to work anything past 1.020 or so. However, 2 people have used
the same yeast to make very good ales which attenuated well. They were
average gravity pale ales to start (about 1.045) but were fermented on
the yeast cake from aprevious 5 gallon batch using the same yeast. <snip> My
advice if you like it is to grow a truly massive starter and pitch only
the yeast cake into the fresh wort and keep it roused (2 times a day) during
fermentation.
Back to my experiment...
I racked both batches to the secondary after three days. At this time,
the British was still burping, but the ESB was silent. The next morning,
the British was silent, but the ESB was burping 1-2 times/minute. Seems
that the racking woke up the ESB. I haven't taken any more SG's, but I
plan to do so this week. I'll post the results when available.
To the question on fermentation temperature, I ferment in my basement
which was holding a fairly steady 68 F over the three-day primary.
A reply to an unrelated post... after secondary comes tertiary.
Mark Peacock
Birmingham, MI - where in winter, you can naturally condition a
lager in your basement
------------------------------
Date: 17 Jul 1994 20:53:49 -0600
From: striker@tcm.mn.org (Robert L. Striker)
Subject: get
GET HOMEBREW mpmsamp1.xls
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 07:25:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: RAYMUN@delphi.com
Subject: Extract Syrup to All Grain
Can someone give me the formula for converting extract to all grain?
I have an idea how I would do it, so let me explain how I perceive it
being done and someone can correct me if I'm wrong or tell me I'm right?
example:
Syrup Extract = 46/pts/gallon
Pale Malt = 36/pts/gallon
(above would be a pound each)
Of course above assumes 100% extraction of Pale Malt, and
extract is always 100% anyways. So for the sake of arguements lets say
my extraction effecientcy if 75% when mashing.
forumla= 46 / (.75 x 36) = 1.704 difference between the two
malts.
So if I'm understanding this correctly I would have to increase
my Pale Malt amounts by 1.704.
Recipe example:
8 pounds malt extract
If I wanted to substitute real grain for the extract syrup, I would
take 8 lbs and multiply it by 1.704, for an amount of 13.63 lbs
of Pale Malt grain.
Is this correct????!!!! Correct me If I'm wrong, Praise me if I'm
right!
This should also work in converting DME to Grain too, Right?
RAYMUN@DELPHI.COM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 13:03:48 +0000
From: Brian Gowland <B.Gowland@rhbnc.ac.uk> (Tel +44 784 443167)
Subject: Re: Homebrewing in England
In HBD 1478, staib@oodis01.hill.af.mil (Maj Don L. Staib)
writes about "Homebrewing in England" in a very positive
and enthusiastic way.
As a UK homebrewer, it is sad that I cannot share his
enthusiasms or positive opinions of the UK homebrew industry.
His comments about the range, availability and low price of
extract kits are quite correct and a lot of the British
public must buy these kits otherwise the shelves of the
various chemists (drug-stores) and homebrew shops wouldn't
carry so many. I brewed from kits for quite a long time
before eventually coming to the conclusion that they were
not worth the money. I'm not a homebrew snob - I would
quite happily drink a kit brew - but I would prefer to
make a brew either from pure extract & hops or full-grain
(as I have recently started to do). The fact is that the
prices that Maj Staib quoted are really the very low end
of the kit market and the better quality kits will cost
much more. The cheaper kits contain all sorts of sugars,
syrups, colouring and flavouring and generally result in
what is referred to as "the classic homebrew taste" that
all kit brewers will recognise. The cheap kits that I have
done have also, sometimes, resulted in some of the most
hideous hang-overs that I've ever experienced. One friend
stopped drinking my homebrew for several months until I
converted to pure-extract brewing.
Maj Staib claims that the British started homebrewing
to beat the Queen's taxes. Homebrewing dates back until
at least the time of the Saxon's if not well before that.
In recent centuries, ale and beer were part of the staple
diet of all people (children included) due to the health
hazard from drinking water. The recent wave of homebrewing
grew up in the 1970s as a reaction against the commercial
breweries' attempts to force the public to drink the
rubbish that they called beer. This is when many of the
kits appeared. Unfortunately many of the kit manufacturers
thought they could get away with putting rubbish in their
kits (many still do but some have cleaned up their acts).
This discouraged as many would-be homebrewers as those
who decided to perservere. The recent discussion about
the US advert. that slammed homebrewing shows an
attitude that much of the UK public as well as the US
public hold about homebrew being nasty, cloudy and
foul smelling/tasting. Much of this opinion grew up as
a result of poor quality kits with poor quality
instructions. The late (great) Dave Line's books about
homebrewing from the 70's were an attempt by him to
educate the British public that you could make good
homebrew.
Ironically, the rise of CAMRA and their success in
persuading the commercial breweries that we wouldn't put
up with the garbage, means that commercial brew is now
much more acceptable and the homebrew industry in the UK
went into some form of suspended animation. It took me
a great deal of time to find a homebrew shop who catered
properley for people like me who wanted to learn more
about the "science" (in a fun way) of brewing from extracts,
hops and grains. Many shops may sell some of the raw
ingredients but wouldn't know what to do with them - if you
don't want a kit, your on your own. I've also been given
"advice" in homebrew shops which goes completely against
what I know to be correct.
Maj Staib also states that you won't have trouble
finding folks who brew - this to an extent is true - many
people in my local pub(s) brew, but only from kits. When
I start talking about extracts and grain they look at me
like I'm some sort of mad scientist or a "smart-ass". The
fact is that brewing as a full-time pastime/passion is
very low-profile. Most people think that its more complicated
than it really is. British home-brewers are often accused
by US homebrewers of brewing to save money - this, I'm
afraid, seems to be the case with many of them. I brew
because I want to drink good homemade ale. Incidentally,
I buy my raw ingedients (grain & hops) in bulk and can
put together an all grain mashed brew for the same price
as an average-quality kit. I save money AND I get good
brew - OK it takes longer but I get a brew that I know
the contents of AND I haven't had a single hangover
since starting pure extract or full-grain brewing.
There aren't even any home-brew societies that I know
of. The best advice I could get was "find a wine-making
society - many people who make wine also brew"! That was
from someone in a homebrew shop!
I don't wish to criticise or offend Maj Staib in any
way - please don't take this as such. It is good to know
that he was able to find a good group of people here that
participated and that he still keeps in touch with them.
The fact is, however, that much of the UK homebrewing
industry is driven by the kit manufacturers themselves
and many of the British public put up with that without
realising that they could go further. Maybe I have just
been unlucky but having "talked" to other readers of
HBD and r.c.b. in the UK via email, it seems that we
are few and far between. Most say that they don't have
any or many friends who also brew.
Keep the faith - happy brewing to all,
Cheers,
Brian
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 08:38:10 -0400
From: stricklandc@cocoa12.ksc.nasa.gov (Chris Strickland)
Subject: Liquid Malt Extract Yeast Starter/Primer
I've used used DME in the past to start my yeast starters. I use
about 3-4 tbs for 1 1/2 cups water. I'm curious, I have about 3 lbs
of liquid malt extract (LME) left over from my partial mashing days.
Can I use this instead of the DME for starting the yeast (I keep it
frozen in the freezer). Also, why couldn't I use the LME for priming?
If I can use it, what adjustments in measuring should I use:
3-4 tbs of DME -> 4-5 tbs LME - Yeast starter
1 1/4 cups DME -> 1 1/2 cups LME - Primining
Hows the above look?
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Chris Strickland | Allin1: stricklandc |
| Systems Analyst/Statistician | Email : stricklandc@cocoa12.ksc.nasa.gov |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 08:53:07 EDT
From: cem@cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot)
Subject: racking
I have a question about racking.... eg. When is the proper time to rack
to secondary. Usually I wait until the kreusen has fallen. But recently
i was thinking.... should it be racked before the yeast enters autolisys (sp)
and I notice the sulfer smell? Also, what might be the consequences for
racking too late.
Thanks,
ChuckM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 09:17:25 +22305931 (EDT)
From: gam@beluga.must.com (Guy Mason)
Subject: Siphoning
Greetings Fellow Brewers,
I have a minor problem with siphoning. When I get my siphon flowing from
the primary to the secondary, I end up loosing the siphon before I get
all the wort out of the primary. I end up leaving about 5-6 inches of wort
in the primary. I'm sure if I relaxed and didn't check every 30 seconds it
would be much better, but hey I'm a nervous chef...
Does anyone have some nice ascii graphics for an EasySucker(tm) or
Suck-O-Matic(tm) that would hold the siphon hose in place at a proper
position?
_ _
O O
/---------------------------uuu--U--uuu---------------------------\
| Guy Mason When Brewing is |
| MUST Software International Outlawed only |
| E-mail : gam@must.com Outlaws will |
| Phone : (203)845-5137 Fax : (203)845-5252 Brew. |
\-----------------------------------------------------------------/
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 9:24:14 EDT
From: Steve Scampini <scampini@hpangrt.an.hp.com>
Subject: Japaneese Beetles
I have had absolutely great luck this year protecting my garden from
hordes of J. Beetles using those traps which use both a floral and a
sex pheremone (sp?) lure. I have to empty the bag at least once every
two days and have caught (no exageration) five pounds of bugs!! Only
one or two rare beetles have found my garden. Make sure you place the
trap about 30 feet away from your plants (not in amoungst them).
Good Luck.
Steve Scampini
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 11:14:30
From: djmiller@tasc.com (Dean J. Miller)
Subject: Help! Flocculation, clearing, etc.
Help, I think I may have a problem!! I brewed a barleywine a couple of weeks
ago. Here is the basic recipe:
16# Alexader's pale malt extract
2 oz. black malt
1# honey
1# golden brown sugar
2-1/2 oz Hallertauer Northern Brewer Plugs
3-1/2 oz Fuggles leaf hops
Wyeast Belgian Ale Yeast
Champagne Yeast
I boiled everything for 90 minutes with NB plugs, sparged, pitched the
Fuggles, cooled and pitched the Belgian Ale Yeast, OG was 1.112. After about
a week I racked to the secondary, during which time it was happily fermenting
away, sg was 1.038. I added the Champagne Yeast to the secondary and it
continues to ferment happily, if slowly. It has now been fermenting for 2
weeks at about 75 degrees.
The problem I have is that the Belgian yeast does not seem to be flocculating
or settling out of solution. I stll have at least another 3 weeks before I
plan to bottle and I wanted to know if I was needlessly worrying or whether I
need to be doing something different. I have never used clarifying agents and
I have always had very clear beers (I always rack to a secondary).
Any clues, oh assembled wisdom of beeriness??
TIA
dean
Dean Miller
djmiller@tasc.com
I'd rather be brewing...
------------------------------
Date: 18 Jul 94 11:18:41 EDT
From: Bruce Kiley <73551.3367@compuserve.com>
Subject: Micro Beer Clubs
I am looking for phone #'s to the micro "beer of the month clubs" I have the #
for Beer across america. I recently found a # for The Trolley-America's Beer
Club (800) 638-2337. I can not the number to work properly. Does anyone know
of or use this club? Are there anyother ones out there that are any good.
Bruce
73551.3367@compuserve.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 9:40:40 MDT
From: npyle@hp7013.ecae.stortek.com
Subject: Good News/Keg Gaskets
I am happy to bring some good news to the group. A couple weeks ago I
reported that my latest amber ale was possibly infected by dry hopping. I
was suspicious of the hops because they were home grown and I didn't really
know how they were dried/handled. I was also suspicious of my own wacko
taste-buds, as I've tasted stealth flavors in beers before. Also, the fact
that the beer wasn't getting worse indicated to me that infection wasn't as
likely as I had first guessed. I had several others taste this beer,
including the HBD's own John Palmer and nobody detected any off-flavors. I
think that the harshness of the dry hops were mis-perceived by me. This
harshness mellowed and the beer was fine. As a footnote, I'm starting to
appreciated dry-hopping less, and finish hopping more. Dry hopping seems to
me to be very susceptible to getting overdone, whereas I've never seen a beer
that was over-finish-hopped.
**
Also, Domenick wrote:
>I mean, people are worried that their keg gaskets will impart flavors and
>aromas to their beer! ...
This is no brewing myth, Domenick. I have completely ruined a half keg of
beer by not changing the gaskets on the keg, and I am just one of many. The
aromas in the keg gaskets are insidious, and they ARE worth worrying about.
Cheers,
Norm = npyle@hp7013.ecae.stortek.com
------------------------------
Date: 18 Jul 94 16:43:00 GMT
From: korz@iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: malt "fact" sheet
Rich writes:
>1.2. 2 row Lager malt 2 degrees L
>
>This malt is also kilned at low temperatures to preserve the color
>and enzyme level. It can be lower in
>enzyme and protein level than 6-row malt, but this quality depends
>on the strain of barley used in the
>malt. This malt is high in enzyme, and is poorly modified, so it
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This was true years ago, but virtually all base malts these days are fully
modified. There are some exceptions, but what you get at the HB supply
store is fully modified. Also, this malt is known as "Pils" or "Pilsener"
malt.
>1.3. Pale Ale malt 3 degrees L
<snip>
>and is less likely to produce DMS, which can lead to a 'sweet creamed
>corn' aroma.
Good point... it should be noted that 2-row lager (or Pils) malt
has MORE of the precursors of DMS and thuss more likely to have
some residual DMS in beer made with this malt.
>1.4. Wheat malt 2 degrees L
>
>Wheat malt is a naked grain, in that it has no husk to add polyphenols,
>and has a high protein content,
>often causing protein haze. It is difficult to malt, and has practically
>no enzymes, thus cannot convert
This is a common misconception. In fact, wheat malt has quite a bit
of enzymatic power and can easily convert itself without help from other
grains. It cannot, however be lautered without some kind of husk or
chaff to form a filter bed.
By the way, unmalted wheat and unmalted barley do not have enzymes.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 09:49:09 PDT
From: haist@cogsci.UCSD.EDU (Frank Haist)
Subject: lactose help requested
Two weekends ago I brewed up a honey ginger ale. Upon
racking it to the secondary this past weekend I found that
while the ginger taste was right on the mark, the body
is a little too dry for my taste and is lacking any real
body. In retrospect, this is not surprising given the
recipe. The recipe was:
Gingersnap Honey Summer Ale (5 gal)
6 lbs pale 2-row (Great Western)
.5 lb wheat
3 lbs honey
1.5 oz Cascade (6.1 alpha- 60 min boil)
.5 oz Czech Saaz (5.1 (?) - 10 min)
4 oz ginger (peeled and thinly sliced - 2 min boil)
SNPA yeast 500 ml starter
OG = 1.053
gravity at racking = 1.007
I think this beer provides me with a perfect opportunity to
experiment with lactose in order to alter the body post-hoc.
Having never worked with lactose what can I expect? According
to Papazian lactose will not add much sweetness, which is too
bad because that is one thing I'd like to add. What type of
flavor or change does lactose add? How much should I use in
5 gallons (I'll probably only add it to 2.5 gallons and bottle/keg
the other half without lactose to note the differences)?
Any help is greatly appreciated. If there is sufficient
info/interest I'll summarize what I get to the HBD. Thanks
in advance.
- ---Frank
Frank Haist, Ph.D.
UCSD Cognitive Science Dept.
fhaist@cogsci.ucsd.edu
------------------------------
Date: 18 Jul 94 16:59:00 GMT
From: korz@iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Parafilm
Sorry for the bandwidth, but my mail to Noel keeps bouncing.
I'm afraid I don't have Parafilm... try sending email to Dan McConnell
(Dan McC) or Jeff Frane (--Jeff). I'm sure they will be able to help you.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 11:14:56 +0800
From: barry@odf.UCSD.EDU (Barry Nisly)
Subject: underpriming/Boiling Kettles/Elf Moron Co. Beer in SD?
I bottled my first attempt at a porter (Plain Jane Porter) 2 weeks ago.
It was an extract loosely based on Papazian's recipe for "sweet" porter.
However on bottling day, I went to grab my corn sugar and remembered that I
used the last of it on the previous batch. No problem, I say, I'll just use
some of this honey sitting right here. After measuring it out, I find that
it's just over 1/3 cup. I figure that's close enough (Papazian says 1/2 cup,
right?). Primed and bottled ala Papazian. I let it condition 10 days and
popped the top on one to taste it. Drinkable but terribly underprimed. No
bubbles at all. No head either. Just dark brown, kind of bittersweet liquid.
Now I pose my question: Is there anything I can do to (force) carbonate this
batch short of buying a counter-pressure bottle filler? These are bottled in
champagne bottles, which usually take longer to "condition", but after 10
days in the bottle without so much as a bubble or two I'm a little worried
(I know I shouldn't be). I'll drink it but my wife and friends won't
(can they truly be considered friends then? ;-)).
Also, we bought our townhome in December (BTW, it's great living in a new
house with new appliances) and the kitchen is laid out nicely except for
the fact that the microwave over the stovetop leaves me about 13 inches of
room for my boiling kettle. Right now I do extracts in a 16 qt Malaysian
stainless pot that I bought from Target. Works fine for extracts but I'm
feeling the need to move on to all-grain and this is the crux. If I can
find a short and wide boiling kettle that holds around 7.5 gallons I'd
be set. Maybe it would even fit over two burners. Is there such a beast
to be had? All of the Vollraths, et al, are too tall :-(. Large propane
burners intrigue me but what would the neighbors think of that setup on
my balcony? Not an option (too much work/new equipment). Same with the
Bruheat type stuff. No coolers either - I'd like to stick to kettle mashing.
Is anyone else experiencing the same problem? I know, I can get away with
partial mashes but I want to go straight to all-grain if I go at all. I'd
even buy aluminum if the thing fit. By my calculations, a pot 12" tall by
14" dia. would hold just over a cu ft (which is 7.48 gal) which should be
large enough to hold a 5 gal batch (~6.5 gal after sparging, right?).
Any ideas? Get a keg and cut it to fit?
My last batch was a Wiezen (Marital Bliss Wiezen - been married a month and
loving every minute of it) and it is now bubbling away after racking. Talk
about aroma, the room smelled like bananas for 4 days! I'll make sure that
I have enough corn sugar for this one. One last thing - has anyone found the
alleged good beer from A-B (Elk Mountain Somethingorother) in the San Diego
area? I would guess the SD Brewing Co. might have it since they have what
seems like gigabrews on tap.
Barry Nisly
bnisly@ucsd.edu
------------------------------
Date: 18 Jul 1994 11:29:17 -0700
From: "Dave Suurballe" <suurb@farallon.com>
Subject: Anchor bottle caps
john keith hopp <jhopp@unm.edu> says:
"Anchor has gone to crappy screw-tops"
This is not true. Anchor is crowning with the usual
non-twist caps on non-twist bottles.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 15:31:14 -0500
From: sematkos@mailbox.syr.edu (Steve Matkoski)
Subject: Pilsner wont clear.
Hi,
I brewed an extract pilsner about 3 weeks ago. It sat in the
primary for about a week and then was transferred into a secondary. After
two weeks in the secondary the beer has yet to clear. There is about a 1/2"
of spent yeast in the bottom of the carboy. How long should I let this stay
in the carboy? I would like to get it clear before bottling. TIA!
-steve.
sematkos@syr.edu
====================------- ---- - -
CAUTION: Signature Under Construction!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 16:14:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Greg Ames <tga@maelstrom.timeplex.com>
Subject: Re: Jim Koch <tm?>
On Thu, 14 Jul 1994, john keith hopp <jhopp@unm.edu> writes:
>What's the real beef against Jim Koch <tm?>? What has been his
>reprehensible behaviour so as to warrant constant derision in HBD (a
>search through HBD back issues yields little detail).
I have to profess, that after several months of on-again/off-again
lurking, I have yet to discover the reason for this Jim Koch hated as
well. I've heard his name in reference to lawsuits, but no details.
>I really do want to know (natch, private replies OK-I would summarize and
>re-post)
You aren't the only one. :-)
Greg
tga@maelstrom.timeplex.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 14:17:22 PDT
From: berkun@decwet.enet.dec.com
Subject: Mash and Sparge Times
I have been wondering about Mash and sparge times. I am new to all
grain with about a half dozen batches to my name.
Mash
Most people seem to mash for about an hour. However, Dave Mosher's
new book recommends mash times on the order of 2 to 2 1/2 hours. I've done
anywhere from 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
What's right? How much does it vary per style or mash temperature.
Should you just do an iodine test and not worry?
Sparge
There has been some discussion of this lately, but still I wonder... I
have had extraction rates from 22 to 30. The 30 numbers are
when I use a _lot_ of water, ending up with 7 or 8 gallons, which
means a very long boil. I'm not worried about getting every last
point out of my grain, but neither do I like to waste too much.
I have a copper manifold in a cooler. I buy my grain at a store that
grinds it for me, so I don't have control over the grind and I
couldn't tell a good grind from a good grinder anyway. I have
recycled the first runnings (sometimes several times, just for kicks).
I can control the flow easily by adjusting the faucet I placed on the
cooler. It's too soon to say for sure how much that seems to affect
the extraction.
Is slower better? I.e. turn the faucet way down?
Is more water better? I.e. end up with very long boils?
Should I stir more? I don't stir much now, as it seems to cause the
heat to disappear faster and I'm also concerned about HSA.
Should I be perfectly satisified with 25 points?
Should I mash longer?
Any other ideas?
Thanks! Post or email, I'll summarize replies.
Ken B.
Seattle
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 14:31:11 PDT
From: Karl Elvis MacRae <batman@cisco.com>
Subject: Tied House Peach Wheat clone?
I just tried the Tied House (Palo Alto's brewpub) peach
wheat.
It's a prett nice beer; my wife is *nuts* for it.
We want to try to produce something similar.
Problem is, I am not much of a drinker of wheat beers, and
have never made one. SO I need some suggestions on how to
produce an extract recipe that will aproximate it.
Anyone out there have any good ideas?
Thanks....
-Karl
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Karl Elvis MacRae Software Engineer Cisco Systems, Menlo Park, CA, USA
batman@cisco.com 415-688-8231 DoD#1999 1993 Vulcan Eighty-Eight
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
"Supermodels have webbed toes. They're separated from other mortals at
birth, and raised by tibetan monks in an ashram in Escondido."
-Barb, on how Supermodels are different from the regular kind.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 14:38:46 PDT
From: bgros@sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros)
Subject: honey
Last week was a long post about adding honey to beer and about the
Bison brewing company doing research on amounts and types of honey to
use. I have enjoyed their honey basil ale in the past and have
played with my own recipes for this beer, but all that work seemed
a bit excessive.
My question about this article was the idea of diluting honey to
approximately the OG of the wort, then adding it when the beer is
at high krausen. The obvious problem with this approach was also
addressed; namely that of dealing with the wild yeast and bacteria
that is in most honeys. But what is the advantage of this approach?
Most people that have used honey in the past have, I'm sure, simply
added a measured amount of honey to the boil. This takes care of
wild yeast as well as dilution. So what's wrong with this approach?
- Bryan
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 16:46 PDT
From: DONNA DeANGELIS-BLAINE Residence Dep <REGDBD@UCSDMVSA.UCSD.EDU>
Subject: mailing lists
homebrew mailing list
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 22:57:43 EDT
From: Barkin@aol.com
Subject: unsuscribe
unsuscribe
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1479, 07/19/94
*************************************
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