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HOMEBREW Digest #1440
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 94/06/03 00:33:32
HOMEBREW Digest #1440 Fri 03 June 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
New Brewer (fischer)
I need a favorite recipe (Paul Beard)
Mashout- (rprice)
More on the Party Pig (via RadioMail) <jhorzepa@radiomail.net>
RE: dunkelweizen all-grain recipe (Jim Dipalma)
Re: archives (Jeff Frane)
Digest Browser (Ron Hart)
hops in "LA" (Montgomery_John)
Re: Words of caution (Brew Free Or Die 02-Jun-1994 0958)
A Couple Comments (MS08653)
Water chemistry for wheat beers (GRAFTONG)
Bad address resend ("MACA")
Mash Stirrer et al. (Don Put)
Sanitizing Siphon Tubing (John DeCarlo x7116 )
Which Hop is best for Flavor Only? ( LARRY KELLY)
Help with Clearing Agent Use ( LARRY KELLY)
spruce/1098/buggy bines/calling Jack/bine id (RONALD DWELLE)
Optimum amount of brew water ( LARRY KELLY)
Broken Glass ("Scott Perfect")
Pig Foaming, Mailing Beer (mike.keller)
Malting oats/mildew ("Glenace L. Melton")
Brew Pubs in Miami Beach (Roger Stelk)
Re: Motorized Mash Tun Revisited (and RIMS) (Dion Hollenbeck)
RE:force carbonation bad for head? (Erik Speckman)
unable to contact Manning Martin <manning#m#_martin_p@mcst.ae.ge.com> (Robert Schultz)
Help on hops... (Robert Schultz)
Bottles for homebrew (Philip Proefrock)
Re: DunkelWeizens (Jim Busch)
Boston Brew-In's/HSA. (braddw)
Re: Pickle Buckets (Dave Coombs)
Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
(Articles are published in the order they are received.)
Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc.,
to homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if
you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L@UA1VM.UA.EDU),
then you MUST unsubscribe the same way!
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from
sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via
mail from listserv@sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a
message to that address to receive listserver instructions.)
Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored.
For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen@novell.physics.umr.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 03:22:31 -0700
From: fischer <kfischer@ucssun1.sdsu.edu>
Subject: New Brewer
Howdy Everyone,
Where is the best place to begin my foray into homebrewing.
Any quintessential books I should get??
Thanks for any help
Keith Fischer
kfischer@ucssun1.sdsu.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 07:52:28 -0400
From: paul.beard@gatekeeper.mis.tridom.com (Paul Beard)
Subject: I need a favorite recipe
I am looking for a summer brew to make, something with a good flavor (I'm a
fan of Fuller's ESB and brews of that ilk) but with a low octane for our
steamy summer months here in the Deep South. To put it simply, I'd like an
alternative to iced tea, but I don't want to find myself in the hammock
when I should be rebuilding the pleasure grounds.
I'm not a lager fan (too many bad commercial gassy beers, I expect), but if
someone can offer an extraordinary recipe, try me.
Any suggestions?
- --
Paul Beard, MIS Support, AT&T Tridom, 840 Franklin Court, Marietta, GA 30067
404 514-3798 * FAX: 404 514-3678 * Pager: 890-3557 *
tridom!paul.beard/beardp@tridom.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 09:27:24 -0500
From: rprice@cbmse.nrl.navy.mil
Subject: Mashout-
In Dominick Venezias post on Mashout he mentioned a three step sparge
process that I use. A few years back I visited a couple of small
breweries and several of the highland Scotch distilleries. In each they
produced their beer (distillers just forget the hops), in a large lauter tun
which had folding arms to stir the mash and a couple of very large water
heaters on an upper level (all looked very similar so I assumed were
produced by the same outfit). Following the mash schedule they would
run in 170F water for the first sparge run, then pump this off through a
chiller to the fermentation tanks, the second sparge was at a slightly
higher temperature of 180F, and the gravity was dropping rapidly (like
about 1.010 as I remember), then they did a very rapid final sparge at
about 190 to get every last bit of sugar out of the mash. This was about
1.005 or so and was retained by pumping up to the holding tank, and
while the next batch was mashed the water in the bulk tank cooled to
about 170F where the process started again.
I adopted the same three step system for my homebrewing setup, and I
mash out by adding a small amount of simmering water to the mash to
raise the temperature to 170F or so, then blend more of the simmering
water with cold to make a 180F batch, which I sparge through, followed
by another shot of the simmering water.
I use a very short mash schedule (50-60 min.), and recirculate the first
gallon or so of mash water, until the mash sets and the wort runs clear.
Then I let the water level reach the grain bed, and begin adding the 180F
water at that point. When the flow reduces and the bed begins to settle
I add the 190F water and often I find that the gravity of the run off will
take a jump. Tannins and silicates so far haven't been a problem with
this technique, and I get excellent extraction rates.
I am not sure if it is a Scottish thing to get every last gram of sugar from
the mash, I was told that it aided in extracting all of the sugars from the
mash and increasing the final gravity without over dillution of the wort.
The owner and distiller at Glengoyne used this method and spent a long
time covering his methods with me, he convinced me, and I have stuck
with it. The microbrewery I visited was run by a couple of former
distillery employees who may simply have used the same equipment and
techniques by habit. But who is to argue with good booze and beer.
As a final note, on that same trip at a brewery somewhere in the UK one
bit of advice I remembered was that the pH and mash temps were critical
to maintaining the malt character and mouth feel of the finished beer.
Seems that they used higher temps (like about 155-158F) for short
periods of time, at a pH of about 5.8. This they explained was to
enhance the activity of the enzymes good at eating smaller sugars while
leaving the longer chain sugars for your beer.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 06:39:28 PDT
From: John Horzepa (via RadioMail) <jhorzepa@radiomail.net>
Subject: More on the Party Pig
Well, I'm certainly impressed by what the HBD can do, my mailbox has been
overflowing with suggestions on how to get good results with the pig, not to
mention several posts in the last digest.
The overwhelming advice I've gotten is to prime less than you normally do for
bottles. The directions that came with my pig were somewhat ambivelant on
this, they said to prime normally, and then said to use 1/3 cup sugar. They
did not specify if that was 1/3 cup for the whole batch (5 gallons) or just for
the pig beer. Of course, I use dry malt extract rather than sugar for priming,
they made no mention of priming ratios for that.
I've got a pale ale that I just racked to the secondary, I'm planning on using
the pig for half of it when it's ready. I will use 1/4 cup of extract to prime
the pig, I'll prime the beer for bottles as I normally do. I'll let people
know how it turns out.
Thanks to everyone who responded to my first post, I know where to go next time
I've got a question.
john
- --- Original Message ---
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 09:45:23 EDT
From: dipalma@sky.com (Jim Dipalma)
Subject: RE: dunkelweizen all-grain recipe
Hi All,
Spencer Thomas asks about all grain dunkelweizen recipes.
>1. Does anyone have a great all-grain dunkelweizen recipe? (That you
> will share !accurately! with me?)
Well, this one took a first in a competition last year:
5# DWC Pilsner
5# DWC Wheat
1 cup chocolate malt
Two of the three judges scored the beer in the low 40s, all three commented
that it was too dark, and had a dark roasted malt character that was a little
too pronounced. I agreed with their comments. The malt character in a
dunkelweizen should be soft and subtle, not sharp and distinctive. Also,
"dunkel" in this case is a relative term, this style should be somewhat darker
than a pale hefe-weizen, but not as dark as a porter or stout. For both
those reasons, I'm going to reduce the chocolate to 1/3 to 1/2 cup, and leave
it at that.
>My tentative recipe is looking something like this:
>* 30-70 Pilsener (DW-C) - Wheat (DW-C or Ireks)
Forget the Ireks. I've tried it, as well as domestic wheat malts. IMHO, the
DWC wheat is a superior choice. Plumper, with a higher yield and ~30% lower
protein content, the DWC wheat was easier to mash and lauter and produced a
clearer, cleaner finished product than any other type I have tried.
>* Some amount (5%?) of dark crystal (Ireks 90L) to darken and add body
Addition of high lovibond crystal will also contribute rounded, caramel-like
tones, and likely some residual sweetness as well. Dunkelweizen, like the
pale version, should be light, crisp, and tart.
>* Double decoction mash.
>* 12 IBUs of hops, 60 min.
Yep. Your target of 12 IBUs is about right, you want to avoid excessive
bitterness. The combination of high hop bitterness and clove character is
quite unpleasant, it will detract from the drinkability. Use a noble type
hop such as Tettnang or Hallertau, do a single addition, and boil for 60
minutes. Avoid late additions for flavor or aroma.
One other thing, most of the flavor of this style should come from the
yeast. Use an authentic weizen yeast, I use the Weihenstephan(sp?) #68.
I believe Wyeast now distributes this as #3068.
Hope this helps,
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 06:56:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Frane <gummitch@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: archives
Gregg Tennefoss wrote:
>
> Just a thought !! Would it be possible/plausable to invite vendors and
> suppliers to post product information, price lists and catelogs in the
> archives?
Disclaimer: I AM a vendor, supplier... and would be happy to up-load our
catalog. Or not. Depending on the will of the HBD. From my
perspective, it's a great solution.
>
>
> From: Don Rudolph <76076.612@CompuServe.COM>
> Subject: Seattle Homebrew Club
>
> I live in Seattle and would like to start a Homebrew Club. My house
> is on the north side of Queen Anne, near the Redhook Brewery. Let's
> get together, talk and drink beer, and learn to improve our brews.
>
There is already a really good club in Seattle, and I suspect some of
them (where's Larry Barello?) are active here. Lots of experience in
that lot: the Brews Brothers.
- --Jeff
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 09:52:56 -0500
From: Hart@actin.rutgers.edu (Ron Hart)
Subject: Digest Browser
For all you Mac users out there--try Digest Browser as described in
yesterday's HBD. It's great. You don't need to use Eudora, as was
mentioned. Digest Browser can handle any kind of text file from any
program. I'm finally caught up!
Ron Hart
Biological Sciences, Rutgers University Newark
hart@actin.rutgers.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 09:09:00 CST
From: Montgomery_John@lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil
Subject: hops in "LA"
Has anyone ever tried growing hops in the "LA" area - Lower Alabama.
Since the main growing regions tend to be the Pacific Northwest it would
seem an exercise in futility. Any green thumbs out there that can lend
advice? Thanks.
john montgomery
montgomery_john@lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 10:00:36 EDT
From: Brew Free Or Die 02-Jun-1994 0958 <hall@buffa.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Re: Words of caution
In HBD #1438, Richard Nantel wrote:
>All 24 crashed to the floor. Five exploded sending glass everywhere. After the
>noise subsided, I realized my left knee was badly gashed. The wound was to the
>bone and required 16 stitches to close. This could, however, have been much
>worse. I could have been more seriously injured, or worse yet, my daughter or
>wife could have been struck.
This reminded me of a similar albeit much less tragic experience that happened
to me.
I was getting something out of my beer fridge when I accidentally knocked a
bottle of beer out of it. The bottle fell to the floor and exploded. I immed-
iately felt something spraying and, looking down, saw three bloody gashes on my
leg. My first thought was that I had a severed artery. I composed myself
enough to look down again, and then around. That's when I noticed that the
flying glass had also punctured a hole in a can of pub draught Guinness that
had been next to the fridge. It was Guinness that was spraying on my leg, not
my blood spraying out of it. Phew!
In no way am I making light of Richard's accident or of the danger of working
with bottles and carboys. But the above incident did have me chuckling,
especially after I determined that the three gashes were superficial.
Be careful out there. And don't lose your sense of humor.
- --
Dan Hall Digital Equipment Corporation MKO1-2/H10 Merrimack, NH 03054
hall@buffa.enet.dec.com ....!decwrl!buffa.dec.com!hall
"Adhere to Schweinheitsgebot
Don't put anything in your beer that a pig wouldn't eat" --David Geary
------------------------------
Date: 02 Jun 94 09:15:09
From: MS08653@MSBG.med.ge.com
Subject: A Couple Comments
FROM: "MICHAEL L. TEED"<MS08653@MSBG>
Dist: INTERNET
int homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
After reading the thread regarding siphoning, I thought I would add my .02
worth. The easiest thing I have found is to sanitize the siphon apparatus
and while rinsing, leave the hose filled with water. Cap the end with your fing
er ( I wear rubber gloves while I do this ) insert hose into beer, let it flow
draining the water and first bit of beer. Second best is to buy an item I have
seen called a ' Battery Filler ', it is a rubber squeeze bulbwith a nozzle
attached, similar to a baster, but with considerably more suction power. I
found mine in the auto section of my local dept store. This one even works on
my 4.5' length of 3/8 siphon tube, which is difficult to start a siphon with
when you are using a 36" cane. Being plastic, it is easily sanitizable.
Another item I have seen recently, and considerable discussion on is the
party pig. Good idea with some rough edges. Biggest one seems to be the
pouring difficulties. I have not looked at one to see if you could do this, but
the theory goes as such. Your beer line has a certain loss of pressure per
foot, which is part of the reason that a pig will not perform the same as a tap
system. The pressure at the end of the hose is not nearly as high as the CO2
pressure in the tank. If you tried to pour your beer with 8 psi at the outlet
of your spigot, you would have much the same result as the pig. The same theory
applies to your 'beer king' kegs and tappers ( which I have had one of for
many years, even before I started brewing ). So the answer is to add a 4' or
so length of beer line to the device. How? Dont know offhand, but I am sure
someone out there can offer suggestions.
Cheers, Michael Teed
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 15:17
From: GRAFTONG@vms1.bham.ac.uk
Subject: Water chemistry for wheat beers
I'm planning on brewing a wheat beer soon and have a question for the
collective wisdom regarding the correct water composition. My home tap
water is very hard - it has more than a passing resemblance to Burton-on-
Trent water (well I only live a few miles away). The question is, is this
OK for brewing wheat beer, or do I need to do any treatments? As a last
resort I have access to distilled water and the necessary chemicals at work.
I recently posted this to r.c.b. and didn't get any takers - please help!
TIA
Gillian Grafton
(GraftonG@vms1.bham.ac.uk)
------------------------------
Date: 2 Jun 1994 04:17:52 U
From: "MACA" <maca@maca.sarnoff.com>
Subject: Bad address resend
Mail*Link(r) SMTP Homebrew Digest #1439 (June
!!!! Original Message >= 24K; See following enclosure. Preview follows !!!!
HOMEBREW Digest #1439 Thu 02 June 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Nuts (Jim_Merrill)
BUZZ-Off Homebrew Competition (Robert Mattie)
Deodorizing pickle buckets etc. (Ed Westemeier)
broken glass (Tom Lyons)
Bitter taste (Terri Terfinko)
Radical Commercial Concept (Gregg Tennefoss)
Bugs on the Hops! (George Kavanagh O/o)
Re: #2(7) Homebrew Digest #1438 (June 01, 1994) (RSaletta)
Help? Homebrewing in France? (John Oberpriller x7937)
Party Pig ("Rich Scotty")
Food Grade Buckets (Arthur McGregor 614-0205)
Mailing your homebrewed beer ("Justin J. Lam")
Mash Extract (Randy M. Davis)
A NEED FOR MEAD (Robert Pulliam)
Party Pig (Homebrew Digest #1438) (Pierre Jelenc)
RE: Pickel Buckets (AndrewB6)
Re: Party Pig Carbonation (Michael Froehlich)
dunkelweizen all-grain recipe (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Party Pig (Montanoa)
Infusion nit/unfermentables (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Re: Motorized Mash Tun Revisited (and RIMS) (Jeff Berton)
Post (HOTOPP)
question about yeast starter (tfirey)
Ayinger maltiness (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Seattle Homebrew Club (Don Rudolph)
PARTY PIG FOAMING (david.jacobson)
Mashout Necessary? revisited yet again (Domenick Venezia)
RE:force carbonation bad for head? (Domenick Venezia)
Power Stirring (Glen Hathaway)
Color/Carbonation/David_Fisher (David Draper)
Re: Spruce Use (Brian Thorn)
Bentonite, Kitty Litter and other fine things (Tom Clifton)
AHA first round results (Ulick Stafford)
Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
(Articles are published in the order they are received.)
Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc.,
to homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if
you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L@UA1VM.UA.EDU),
then you MUST unsubscribe the same way!
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from
sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via
mail from listserv@sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a
message to that address to receive listserver instructions.)
Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored.
For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen@novell.physics.umr.edu
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 94 7:42 EDT
From: Jim_Merrill@vos.stratus.com
Subject: Nuts
Does anyone know of a mail order source for stainless steel
flare nuts and other assorted plumbing / tubing connectors ?
McMaster Carr doesn't carry them.
TIA
Jim Merrill
Jim_Merrill@vos.stratus.com
- ------------------------------
Date: 31 May 94 21:31:43 ES
From: Robert Mattie <Robert_Mattie%notes@sb.com>
Subject: BUZZ-Off Homebrew Competition
First Annual BUZZ-Off
American Homebrewers Association Sanctioned Competition
WHO Beer Unlimited Zany Zymurgists
Philadelphia Area Homebrew Supply Shops
WHERE Judging will take place at Pisadeli's, Lincoln Court Center,
Malvern PA. Judging sessions are not open to the public.
HOW Entries will be accepted between June 7 and June 19, 1994.
Some regional homebrew supply shops will accept entries during
this period. Send completed AHA registration form, 3 bottles of
beer with an AHA bottle label attached to each bottle, and $5.00
per entry to:
1994 BUZZ-Off
c/o Beer Unlimited
Rts 30 & 401
Malvern, PA 19355
For further information contact:
rmattie@ccantares.wcupa.edu
Beer Unlimited (610) 889-0905 or (610) 397-0666
Dave Houseman (610) 458-0743
Renee or Robert Mattie (610) 873-6607
- ------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 94 08:36:42 EDT
From: ed.westemeier@sdrc.com (Ed Westemeier)
Subject: Deodorizing pickle buckets etc.
Francisco Jones asks how to deodorize the white 5-gallon food grade
buckets that formerly contained smelly pickles.
Actually, it's easier than you may have th
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Subject: Homebrew Digest #1439 (June 02, 1994)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 08:38:49 -0700
From: Don Put <dput@csulb.edu>
Subject: Mash Stirrer et al.
>From: jeff344@voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov (Jeff Berton)
<Motorized Mash Tun stuff snipped>
>Sounds like a nice setup. One comment, though: the automatic stirrer's
>purpose is to achieve better repeatability and to eliminate temperature
>stratification and stirring. A RIMS will do these things as well as improve
>runoff turbidity. With the way I have my RIMS designed, it doesn't sound
>much more difficult to build than an automatic stirrer. I can email a file
>that describes my RIMS to anyone who is interested.
I would like a copy of your file, Jeff. The RIMS schematics I have seen,
and the resultant fabrication of motor/heater hardware, seem like a LOT
more work than the few hours I put in on the motor and paddle for the
stirrer. Also, I've read articles/reviews (the one by George Fix comes
immediately to mind) where he said that Rodney's version did not translate
well to batch sizes larger than 5 gallons. It seems that the tun
geometry is dependent on batch size (I think the system from SABCO
eliminates this, does anyone out there use one?). However, I also know
that many people have put a lot of effort into making their RIMS systems
work, and I imagine there are many fine designs available now (compared to
the original). Thanks for the input, and I look forward to receiving
your file.
>And a RIMS is a tinkerer's dream.
Well, I don't have much spare time yet as I am a full-time father to my
10 month old, but after finishing the paddle assembly, I find myself getting
the itch to build something else ;-) It's a hell of a disease, isn't it?
>From: glenh@iceonline.com (Glen Hathaway)
>Hi guys... I've been reading the posts by Don Put and Jack Schmidling
>regarding motorized mash stirring. I'm in the construction business (I'm
>a plumber/gasfitter) and noticed that drywallers use a device for stirring
>their filler mud that would probably be perfect for mash stirring. They
>use it chucked in a 1/2" drill. If you've seen 'mudders' at work, you'll
>know what I mean. Otherwise, check out your local building supply place.
>Might save a lot of fabrication (I noticed that Don put a lot of work
>into his stirrer). Just a thought...
Thanks, Glen. I am well aware of the drywallers type of stirrer as my
father was a plastering/drywall contractor for 35 years. Actually, it's
what killed him (he died from mesothelioma, caused from the exposure to
asbestos). He also had a few paddles fabricated LONG before they were on
the market; these were made of stainless and they are sitting in my garage.
I used them on jobs numerous times. Most of them are designed to spin at
a higher rpm than my motor/pulley arrangement spins at. However, I think
if you just want to stir the mash intermittently, they would work fine
attached to a drill. Maybe I just have a mental block about them because of
the negative association I have. BTW, he had all of them made to fit
different size buckets. I have fond memories of mixing plaster in 5 gallon
pails and having it fly all over until I figured out the trigger technique!
>From: ulick@slip20.rad.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
>Subject: AHA first round results
>Does anyone have any idea when the AHA first round scores from Chicago
>will be mailed? It is a month now.
According to the info in Zymurgy, if your beer has made it past the first
round, you will be notified between May 30th and June 6th. At that point,
you should send three (3) more bottles to Denver between June 13th and
17th. I'm not sure if all of the first round score sheets will be
returned during this time, or just the ones that made it past the first
round. As usual, the writing/editing in Zymurgy (Gad, some of the sentences
need a LOT of help in this magazine) leaves some empty space for the
reader to interpret.
don
dput@csulb.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 11:40:46 EST
From: John DeCarlo x7116 <jdecarlo@homebrew.mitre.org>
Subject: Sanitizing Siphon Tubing
I have found it next to impossible to dump my tubing into the sink or
carboy or bucket and get the inside full of sanitizer while everything
else is soaking. So, I go to the next best thing, IMHO, and siphon all
the sanitizer out of the primary, which takes ten minutes or so and
hopefully sanitizes the inside of the tubing.
Anyone else have a favorite method they want to share?
John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo@mitre.org
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 11:43:01 EDT
From: KMYH09A@prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY)
Subject: Which Hop is best for Flavor Only?
Can someone enlighten me as to which Hop type is best for flavor only?
Also does the AAU matter if the hop is used for only flavor adding at end
of boil.
Larry
KMYH09A@prodigy.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 11:43:10 EDT
From: KMYH09A@prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY)
Subject: Help with Clearing Agent Use
I was wondering If I was to use some type of clearing agent in my brew to
help clearing during second staging, would I end up removing to must of the
still suspended yeast, which would in turn lesson my bottle carbination?
What would be a good clearing agent to use?
Should I even use one?
I await all replies, positive or negative.
Larry
KMYH09A@prodigy.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 11:56:08 EST
From: dweller@GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE)
Subject: spruce/1098/buggy bines/calling Jack/bine id
As a previous spruce basher, I'll mention that I used "Black
Hills Spruce" (bought as a live Xmas tree & then planted several
years back) in the boil. I'm right now re-trying a small half
batch, using a different Xmas tree, a Blue Spruce, and using the
spruce tips as a "dry hop" in the fermenter and not in the boil
at all. (I luuuuuuuuv the smell, pant, pant, and will keep trying
til I get the taste!)
I had four responses to my "rapid ferment" query--all saying
that Wyeast 1098 is a true speed demon and a 48-hour ferment was
maybe even "common." Guess I'll go back for another try. (Now if
I could just cut my mashing time in half!)
On buggy hop bines, I planted garlic cloves around my bines
(an old Organic Gardening trick). It supposedly repels (not
eliminates) the bugs. Another organic trick is to spray with
soapy water; then rinse. Not sure how effective these are on
various bug types. I've seen no critters so far, and the goddam
rabbits which eat everything else I plant don't seem to be hop
heads.
To Jack Schmidling: Like many on HBD, I'm a kettle masher,
thanks to your write up. One item, you tell us to sparge with
boiling water (you say something like, "trust me on this one.") I
have (and I do), but I'd like to know why. Speak? Speak?
Now for the me-stupid question. When I planted my hop
rhizomes, I wrote the variety name--Cascade, Nugget, Perle, and
Willamette--on plastic tags with waterproof ink. Except the ink
didn't turn out to be waterproof, and my beer-soaked brain
couldn't remember which I planted where. Any good way to tell
them apart by looks, now that they're half way up my house? They
all smell pretty similar to me.
Cheers all...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 12:05:15 EDT
From: KMYH09A@prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY)
Subject: Optimum amount of brew water
If I was brewing a batch of beer and was not going to do a full batch boil,
what would be the optimum amount of water to brew with.
Like if I'm making a 5 gallon batch, would I boil 1 or 2 or 3 gallons?
Then of course the remainder would be cold water in the carboy.
Larry
KMYH09A@prodigy.com
------------------------------
Date: 2 Jun 1994 09:12:07 -0800
From: "Scott Perfect" <scott.perfect@quickmail.llnl.gov>
Subject: Broken Glass
Subject: Time:8:03 AM
OFFICE MEMO Broken Glass Date:6/2/94
rnantel@cam.org writes:
>All 24 crashed to the floor. Five exploded sending glass everywhere.
This episode reminds me of my only near-disaster with glass, and this
is a good opportunity to offer some more safety suggestions.
When capping bottles, you are putting appreciable stresses on the
glass. A bottle with some non-obvious weakness can explode during
the capping process. This happened to me ONE time but I have taken
precautions ever since. When the bottle failed, shards of glass went
flying every-which-way. I had a very minor cut on my left hand which
was steadying the bottle in the bench capper. Whenever I bottle now,
I wear a glove on my left hand and I wear safety glasses.
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 15:43:00 UTC
From: mike.keller@genie.geis.com
Subject: Pig Foaming, Mailing Beer
RE: Pig foam...
I use the 5 liter minikegs, and one of the most important rules is to
CUT your normal priming sugar/malt/whatever in HALF. I kegged one
part of a batch of dopple, and I primed that part (almost a gallon
and a half) with one tablespoon of corn sugar. The head is fine,
although I must note that the minikeg uses a CO2 cart to force out the
brew (not for priming).
RE: Mailing Beer...
Some of us on the Zymurgy RoundTable on GEnie periodically swap
homebrew, and we always just ship UPS. You cannot ship beer via US
Postal Service. Just wrap your individual bottles in newspaper or
bubble wrap, then pack them in a box that allows at least one inch of
space around each bottle (including in between them). Fill the space
with crushed newspaper or peanuts (peanuts allow shifting, so this
makes the individual wrapping very important). Use good packing tape.
Some UPS clerks think that you're not supposed to ship either glass
or beer via UPS, so it's best just to label the package "brewing
supplies" or "yeast samples" or something, although I did ship some
to Canada last winter, and since I had to be honest for Customs, I
put "Brewing Samples for Judging." No problem.
I've never had a broken bottle.
mike keller zymurgy roundtable genie
"You know that you're over the hill
When your mind makes a promise that your body can't fill."
Little Feat
------------------------------
Date: 02 Jun 94 12:08:20 EDT
From: "Glenace L. Melton" <71242.2275@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Malting oats/mildew
Previously I have malted barley and wheat (3-5 lbs at a time) and have just
finished malting 5 lbs of oats, the first batch I've tried. I can't keep the
temperature below about 70^F so there is always a danger of mildew. In the case
of barley, I have obtained a satisfactory degree of development in about 3 days
at which point I dry, smoke, or roast the grain depending on what sort of malt I
wish to make. However, the oats took longer to sprout and developed more slowly.
In 5 days I only had a germination rate of about 66%, but I also noticed a
distinct musty smell. I decided not to risk ruining the whole batch so dried it
in my oven at 125-130^F over night. The musty smell is almost entirely gone now,
but I am not certain whether the mildew is actually killed or is still lurking
in there to come out and ruin my prospective oatmeal stout. Does anyone have
experience malting oats, or know what temperature is needed to definitively kill
mildew?
[END]
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 11:31:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: Roger Stelk <rogers@unllib.unl.edu>
Subject: Brew Pubs in Miami Beach
I will be attending a conference in Miami Beach at the end of the month.
I anticipate that it will be hotter than a King Cooker on high. To offset
this I would like to spend as much time as possible in some pubs,
preferably in the Art Deco area. Does anyone know of any establishments?
Roger
Email: rogers@unllib.unl.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 07:49:21 PDT
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Motorized Mash Tun Revisited (and RIMS)
>>>>> "Jeff" == Jeff Berton <jeff344@voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov> writes:
Jeff> With the way I have my RIMS designed, it doesn't sound much more
Jeff> difficult to build than an automatic stirrer. I can email a
Jeff> file that describes my RIMS to anyone who is interested.
Jeff> Jeff Berton, Aeropropulsion Analysis Office, NASA Lewis Research Center
Jeff> jeff344@voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov
Jeff -
Please mail it to me. I am interested for several reasons.
First, I built and use a RIMS and can always make improvemenmts
(tinkerer's delight - you are right). Second, people are always
asking me questions about RIMS and I have not yet put together a
descriptive file. And lastly, I like to archive good info about
subjects I am interested in.
Thanks,
dion
Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen@megatek.com
Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 09:35:19 -0800
From: especkma@reed.edu (Erik Speckman)
Subject: RE:force carbonation bad for head?
In response to a suggestion that agitation could break down heading agents,
Domenick Venezia said:
>I could not let this go by. Where did you read this? I would really like
>the reference, because the inference is that you can break peptide chains
>by agitation and if that is the case WE ALL BETTER WATCH OUT!
[much sillyness deleted]
It took someone posting from a biotech firm to put things in a proper
context and jog my memory. One of the things they teach you in
undergraduate biolabs is that the thin surface of bubbles is a hostile
environment for proteins, nucleic acids, and other long polymers. In the
thin film of the bubble such molecules are stretched and may become
denatured or sheared. ( I guess that Reed education was good for something
). Cells in suspension can suffer the same fate.
Jusk keep bubbles out of your blood and brain and you should be Ok.
I haven't seen inside a keg of beer undergoing rapid force carbonation but
a quick shake of one of my bottles of homebrew shows that a foam forms.
Given enough enthusiasm, I imagine a significant fraction of the heading
peptides could be damaged.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 09:20:32 -0600 (CST)
From: Robert Schultz <Robert.Schultz@usask.ca>
Subject: unable to contact Manning Martin <manning#m#_martin_p@mcst.ae.ge.com>
Sorry to use bandwidth, but private email bounced several times....
"Manning Martin MP" <manning#m#_martin_p@mcst.ae.ge.com> would you please send a
copy of your Mac Excel ss for recipe formulation? In binhex4.0 please.
Thanks.
Rob.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 09:06:28 -0600 (CST)
From: Robert Schultz <Robert.Schultz@usask.ca>
Subject: Help on hops...
Asking for the netwisdom....
What is the difference in T45 and T90 hop pellets? I vaguely remember
reading that the utilization of T90 is twice that of T45, but what is typically
available? How do you tell the difference? What do you use in your brews?
If one must add 10% more when using plug and an additional 10% for leaf,
would this info be based on T90 or T45?
Help?
Rob.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Robert.Schultz@usask.ca, Senior Research Analyst, University of Saskatchewan ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ "I'm going off half-cocked? I'm going off half-cocked? ... ~
~ Well, Mother was right - You can't argue with a shotgun." - Gary Larson ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 12:22:31 EST
From: Philip Proefrock <PSPROEFR@MIAMIU.ACS.MUOHIO.EDU>
Subject: Bottles for homebrew
We recently were bottling our latest batch (10 gal of Obscure IPA) of
homebrew, and discovered to our dismay that our capper would not cap
Caledonian Brewing Co.'s bottles, since they have a recessed ring around
the neck and the capper can't get a grip. This got us to wondering
about whose bottles are good for homebrew bottling (New Amsterdams
worked just fine, and a lot of our IPA ended up in those) and whose
bottles don't work as well. I don't know if this is FAQ-bait, or
just a topic of potential interest, but I'd be interested in other
people's experiences and responses. If you prefer to mail responses
to me, I'll summarize them and post it.
I don't think this information will seriously affect my commercial
beer drinking habits (yes, I must admit that I still do drink some
non-homebrews), but it may change what bottles I keep and which ones
I recycle. BTW, we're keeping the Caledonian bottles with an eye to
eventually getting a bench capper.
Philip Proefrock
Weasel Bros. Brewing
Labels & Graphics Design
psproefr@miamiu.acs.muohio.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 13:31:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Busch <busch@daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: Re: DunkelWeizens
> ****NOTE: DO NOT "REPLY" TO MY MAIL, FORWARD OR WRITE NEW MAIL****
> **** ****
> **** john Oberpriller ****
> **** Internet: l375bbk%s12int.dnet@alcbel.be ****
> **** l375bbk%s12int.dnet@alcatel.be ****
Uhh, like maybe you should remove your .sig if this is a problem!
Spencer asks about Dunkelweizens.
>
> Subject: dunkelweizen all-grain recipe
>
> But before I start, I thought I'd get the "wisdom" :-) of the HBD on
> my side. Questions:
> 1. Does anyone have a great all-grain dunkelweizen recipe? (That you
> will share !accurately! with me?)
> 2. What's the best way, in your opinion, to darken a dunkelweizen:
> a. Dark crystal malt
> b. Chocolate malt
> c. Other "color malt" (Aromatic? Munich?)
> d. Other?
>
> My tentative recipe is looking something like this:
> * 30-70 Pilsener (DW-C) - Wheat (DW-C or Ireks)
> * Some amount (5%?) of dark crystal (Ireks 90L) to darken and add body
> * A small amount (2%?) of chocolate malt to darken and add a touch of
> roast flavor.
> * Double decoction mash.
> * 12 IBUs of hops, 60 min.
>
> This gives OG 1.052, Color 20L, which is about on target for the AHA
> style sheet.
THis is a tough one. The dark malts that would be a natural choice are
not available here, and I doubt many homebrewers have dark malt coloring
that most Germans use. You want to limit the caramel sweetness, and limit
the chocolate taste but get the color contributions. The beer need not
be real dark, so I would use under 5% dark crystal and maybe 1% chocolate.
If its domestic chocolate, I would leave it out all together. I hate the
use of Black Patent in any beer, so Im not about to suggest this. If
you can get a dark Munich malt, this may be a good bet, or maybe do some
experiments with Belgian malts, but the maltiness may be too much.
Good luck,
Jim Busch
------------------------------
Date: Thu Jun 2 14:17:55 1994
From: braddw@rounder.rounder.com
Subject: Boston Brew-In's/HSA.
I was just thumbing through the brew club listings in my latest Zymurgy
and noticed that the Boston Brew-In's are located at right across thee
street from me! I plan on stopping over but in the meantime I thought
I'd see if any of you are on the net. Well? Private e-mail is cool.
And now for the question of the day. What is HSA and how will stirring
the mash cause it? A new all-grainer with 4 batches under his belt
wonders.....
**** ---- "There's always time for a Homebrew!" ---- ****
C|~~| ----------------------------------------------- C|~~|
`--' --------------braddw@rounder.com------------- `--'
-------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 15:24:13 -0400
From: Dave Coombs <coombs@cme.nist.gov>
Subject: Re: Pickle Buckets
>> Incidentally, I assume you're going to make a zap-zap type lauter
>> tun. I started out with this, but found there was too much dead
>> space at the bottom.
You could slice off the rings around the outside of the bucket that
prevent it from sliding down inside the outer bucket. Mine has
foundation space 3 or 4 cm deep (about a gallon). It's comparable
to the foundation left by the adjustable vegetable steamer basket I
used a few times, and it's about right for the spigot on my outer
bucket.
dave
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1440, 06/03/94
*************************************
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