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HOMEBREW Digest #1419
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 94/05/09 01:53:42
HOMEBREW Digest #1419 Mon 09 May 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Maltose is ? (MS08653)
BrewArt, vol3--The Woodcuts (George Tempel)
Re: Keg fittings (Dion Hollenbeck)
Tried and True Porter Recipe Request (Chris Pencis)
How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar (Jack Skeels)
6.5 gal carboys/ colored glass bottles (John McCaskill)
Distilled vs. Deionized (andrewb6)
Anthropology (Jeff Frane)
Bitter ale recipe wanted (bob)
Frankenbrau/Carbonates/BallvsPin/B-Brite warning/Blackberries (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Pumps (Phil Duclos)
More Lead... kinda (Michael Cullen)
Chlorine Bleach and Stainless ("Palmer.John")
Lower Calorie Beer (PNEUMAND)
Priming sugar question - no, really! (David Draper)
spruce beer (btalk)
Extract (Maj Don Staib )
Budvar "Budweiser" labels (Maj Don Staib )
Legalities of a pub (Kinney Baughman)
Fullers/Yeast? (VIALEGGIO)
Full-boil extract brew questions... (Bob Bessette)
Thanks about hop tea (Carlo Fusco)
Astringent stout & Ca (ELTEE)
Homebrew Digest #1417 (Ma (Jim King)
Peanut Butter!! (Jonny Miner)
Wort Boiler for Sale (maybe) (Dion Hollenbeck)
Cheap Trick (Jack Schmidling)
Re: CTSP info ("Mark B. Alston")
Using Grains in Extract recipes ( LARRY KELLY)
Beginner in Mashing HELP ME! ( LARRY KELLY)
Re: CTSP info (Dion Hollenbeck)
Carrot alcohol (rsharris)
Re: SOLD: Wort Boiler for Sale (maybe) (Dion Hollenbeck)
Stainless pot source?? ("David B. Ebenstein")
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Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored.
For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen@novell.physics.umr.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 06 May 94 10:33:31
From: MS08653@MSBG.med.ge.com
Subject: Maltose is ?
From: "MICHAEL L. TEED"<MS08653@MSBG>
Dist: INTERNET
int homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
After reading here on HBD about a product that was referred to as Maltose, I ha
ve been attempting to locate said product, with nothing but blank stares from t
hose who I have asked. I tried every health food store in the Metro Milwaukee a
rea, asking for Maltose, then adding it was a malted rice product of some form.
Can someone direct me to either the proper terminology or name for this product
, and if I am correct in my description, I would appreciate a source for this p
roduct. TIA. EMail responses are fine.
Michael Teed - MS08653@MSBG.med.ge.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 May 1994 11:36:18 +0000 (U)
From: George Tempel <tempel@MONMOUTH-ETDL1.ARMY.MIL>
Subject: BrewArt, vol3--The Woodcuts
BrewArt, vol3--The Woodcuts
Welcome to the BrewArt Collection, volume #3 (for Macintosh)!
** "The Woodcuts Edition" **
copyright 1994 George (Ty) Tempel
This collection should show up at sierra.stanford.edu in the
/pub/homebrewing/docs directory as "brewart_3.hqx" or
"BrewArtv3.hqx". As with the other BrewArt collections,
you can download with a TEXT mode anonymous ftp to
sierra.stanford.edu. Once you've gotten the file onto your
macintosh use something like StuffItExpander to
un-binhex the file into a DiskDoubler self-extracting archive,
which explodes into a folder.
Chances are that if you were to simply double-click on any
of the clip art files nothing remarkable would happen. Since
they are clip art, you need to use the "Open" or "Place Art"
menu selections within your graphics program to open these
files and pop them into your own designs.
ABSTRACT:
This collection is the thrid edition of a set of brewing
related clip art that I am in the process of creating and
compiling. I have used some of these elements on my beer
labels, and a few of my network-friends have found them
helpful as well.
DESCRIPTION:
The artwork is provided in the form of PICT files, which
are easily handled by nearly all major applications in
the Macintosh universe. I considered converting some stuff
to EPS (postscript) format, but not everyone out there has
access to nice postscript printers, such as myself. Since
the files are PICTS, it is feasible to convert them to
one or more various DOS/Windows formats, but you will loose
information in the conversion process. Since I don't have
a DOS/Windows machine (insert large grin here), I cannot
do the conversion for you, so it is left as an exercise
for the user (didn't you hate it when textbooks would
do that?).
Also, as an added feature, any text in the clip art is
provided in the form of bezier outlines, so you don't
need to have the fonts on your system. This allows
a safe distribution method, as fonts are copyrighted
and usually cannot be freely distributed. Most of the
advanced graphics software today has the ability to convert
outline fonts (PostScript or TrueType) into bezier
outlines that can be edited with the application, just as
if you had drawn them yourself.
Just for the record, I created the artwork using
Canvas 3.5, Color-It 2.3.2, Adobe Streamline 3,
and Adobe Illustrator 5.
Some of the artwork is pre-colored, but you can change
that if you like. I have an accellerated Macintosh II
(Dove Racer, 32MHz), a vintage DeskWriter inkjet printer,
and the Logitech ScanMan. I also find that if you wish
to use Avery labels, try to find a box of #5164, which
are 3.33" x 4". They come right off of the bottle when
you use a little B-Brite cleanser, and some graphics
programs support the Avery label formats for templates
(mine didn't, however).
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THE FINE PRINT:
This collection is released as brew/credit-ware (I know,
an awkward term, but you'll see that it fits). If you
decide to use any of the clip art from the collection, you
must give me, George (Ty) Tempel, partial credit for the
artwork and send me a bottle of the homebrew that you've
labelled. It's just that simple. No messy fees, etc. Please
remember that it is unlawful to send alcohol via the
US Postal Service, but private carriers (UPS, FedEx, Airborne,
etc), _can_ ship the stuff, just make sure that the brew
is securely packaged (try placing the bottles into tight
plastic bags just in case...). I have shipped several
bottles without problems, but sometimes I label the
contents as "food", "yeast culture equipment", or "glassware"
and have never had a problem (knock on formica).
I can be reached via the following:
George Tempel
65 West George Street
Freehold, NJ 07728
netromancr@aol.com
As of this date, the release of my 3rd collection, not a
soul has sent me anything. Nada. I'd at the very least
like to hear from you, if it's not too much trouble!
Comments and suggestions are welcome, and stay tuned for
more collections to be released at later dates!
- ------Volume #3 Contents-------
BrewArt, vol #3:
"Beer" woodcut bottle.pict
barrel.pict
brewmaster stirring.pict
erhlenmeyer flask.pict
hopper.pict
pilsner woodcut.pict
stirring hand.pict
thumb.pict
woodcut brewvat.pict
Read Me First! o3 (this file)
- ---------------------------
l8r...
ty (george tempel, home = netromancr@aol.com)
"kiss cats: the dachshund and the deer are one"--wallace stevens
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 May 94 09:02:44 PDT
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Keg fittings
>>>>> "Bill" == CCAC-LAD <William> writes:
Bill> I have a few pin lock kegs, but I need ball lock fittings. My
Bill> question is if I remove the poppet assembly from my pin lock
Bill> and buy new ball lock poppet assemblys will the threads match?
Bill> The problem is Williams Brewing sells a keg pump that fits on
Bill> the ball lock kegs. I would like to use one of these things
Bill> but it will not fit my keg. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Absolutely NOT!!! Coke produced the specifications for pin lock
fittings specifically so that they had a proprietery size. No
portions of any ball lock QD will mate to threads on any pin lock.
This is a shame, since there are a number of fittings including NPT
threads which go on the top of ball lock QD fittings which are not
available for pin lock. I have talked extensively to the Hansen
technical people (they make the pin lock fittings) and they had never
thought to try to adapt some of the ball lock stuff to pin lock. They
thought it would not work, and then tried it to make sure, and sure
enough, it does not.
Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen@megatek.com
Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 May 1994 11:25:33 -0500
From: chp@mail.utexas.edu (Chris Pencis)
Subject: Tried and True Porter Recipe Request
Hi folks - I'm looking into doing a partial mash or extract Porter and have
scanned the literature (Papazian, Miller, Cat_s Meow). Is it just me, or do
the Porter recipes seem a little hairbrained to anyone else? Ginger,
molasses, chocolate, coffee, chile peppers - I guess I_m more of a beer
purist than I realized (beyond the Christmas ales). Does anyone have a
tried and true porter recipe which might be good for a first try at a
porter?...I_d like to mess with the other stuff after I try a simple, basic
one for comparison. Thanks for any input - email to address above please.
Please feel free to reference me to recipes found in above literature which
you have tried and found worthy of effort.
Chris
Austin: Capitol of Texas, but more importantly, Beer Capitol of Texas!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 May 94 11:28 EST
From: Jack Skeels <0004310587@mcimail.com>
Subject: How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar
My apologies for not posting this information earlier:
The book:
How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar
by R. M. Gold; Rev. 1985; 240 pp.
Available from:
The Wine Appreciation Guild
(415) 864-11202
CA- (800) 231-WINE
non-CA (800) 242-9462
Jack Skeels
JSKEELS@MCIMAIL.COM
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 May 94 12:59:33 CDT
From: jhm@texmemsys.com (John McCaskill)
Subject: 6.5 gal carboys/ colored glass bottles
>Could someone forward the phone/address of the place in Texas that
>has the styrofoam packed 7 Gal glass vessels for sale.
You can get 6.5 gal carboys for $19.95 from:
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
5611 Morningside
Houston, Tx. 77005
713-523-8154
They come with a styrofoam base.
Now for my two questions.
I currently use a plastic primary for one week, then use a 5 gal glass carboy
for several weeks, keg and force prime. What would I gain by using a glass
primary?
Second, Garden Ridge Pottery has a large selection of interesting bottles.
However, many of them are colored glass. One that I would like to use has
a very light blue green color to it. It is fish shaped, but has a wine bottle
top that will take a cork.
The problem with lead and brass makes me wonder if I need to be worried about
what is used to color the glass. Does any one have any info about this?
TIA
jhm@texmemsys.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 May 94 12:34:02 EDT
From: andrewb6@aol.com
Subject: Distilled vs. Deionized
What is the difference in the resultant water between distillation and
de-ionization? Do these names apply to two different processes that produce
the same thing (i.e. pure water)?
My well water
has a high iron content (I can taste it-and when the shower's running, I can
even smell it), will distillation remove this?
Also, on a related issue, in the distillation of water, if chlorine boi
ls off at a lower temperature than water, isn't it likely to be condensed
right back into the (then) distilled water?
What's the skinny on this?
Thanks in advance. (private e-mail welcome)
Andy (ex
cuse my technical ignorance) Baird
andrewb6@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 May 1994 08:17:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: gummitch@teleport.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: Anthropology
A hearty Thank You! to Thomas Kavanagh, for his very interesting
encapsulization of the anthropological discussion of brewing. Good
stuff, and well covered.
- --Jeff
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 May 94 10:45:59
From: bob@epub.rain.com
Subject: Bitter ale recipe wanted
I would like ask anyone who has a bitter ale extract recipe close to Bass Ale,
which if different is on the bitter side - to send it to me personally or post
it. I am new new to homebrewing (2batches) and I am looking for a recipe that I
can depend on and then experient. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My
internet address is "bob@epub.rain.com".
------------------------------
Date: 6 May 94 18:38:00 GMT
From: korz@iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Frankenbrau/Carbonates/BallvsPin/B-Brite warning/Blackberries
Ron writes:
>In case you're wondering, the Frankenbrau Cap is Frank's version of a PET
>bottle pressure adapter. I've managed to down enough Pepsi in 16oz bottles to
Randy Mosher of the Chicago Beer Society has built a couple of these things.
My concern about their use is the relatively large surface area of
rubber that will be in close proximity to my beer. Besides not being food
grade, I'll also bet that it may impart a butyl aroma to the beer after a while.
I'll stick with using Carbonators(tm).
*******
Jeremy writes:
>precipitation of carbonates in the water. Carbonates in the water tend to
>acidify it (In the manner of CO2), and this could explain your pH problem,
Not quite. Carbon dioxide dissolved in the water (carbonic acid) is acidic,
but carbonates are definately not. They will make your water decidedly
alkaline. Carbonates in the local water are the primary reason that Dublin,
Munich and London originally brewed only dark beers where the acidity of the
dark grains worked in concert with the alkalinity of the water to put the
mash in the right pH range to get decent conversion.
*******
Bill writes:
>I have a few pin lock kegs, but I need ball lock fittings. My
>question is if I remove the poppet assembly from my pin lock
>and buy new ball lock poppet assemblys will the threads match?
There are about eight different connectors for 5gallon syrup canisters,
half of them ball the other half pin. One of the ball-lock connectors
will fit in place of one of the pin-lock connectors. If you are lucky
enough to have a keg with the common thread size, then indeed, you can
interchange.
******
Jim writes:
I use Bbrite. Its the only place in my brewery that I use this stuff.
[for sanitizing filters] I leave it in B-brite too.
I'd like to advise against storing anything in B-Brite or One-Step. They
contain Sodium Percarbonate, which, after a while becomes just Sodium
Carbonate. I once soaked bottles overnight in Sodium Carbonate (washing
soda) and it left a carbonate precipitate on the bottles. Only soaking
in lemon juice water removed it.
*********
Ron writes:
>full in the next few weeks. I have made Blackberry Ales before from
>store bought fruit. Both batches turned out dry. I would like to avoid
>this by adding lactose (preparation???) or something else to avoid
>the dryness. Thought I might try using a more atten. yeast.....
> ...any recomendations on sugars or liquid yeasts ?????
No... *less* attenuative yeast -- one that will leave more sugars.
Wyeast #1338 (European Ale) is the least attenuative of all the
Wyeasts. Lactose will sweeten it, but I suspect that your dryness
was lactobacillus from the fruit (I believe that freezing won't kill
them) and they definately can eat Lactose. You can try sanitation
by freezing and then blanching or try Camden tablets. Once you kill
the lactobacillus you can sweeten with Lactose.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 May 94 14:11:53 MDT
From: pjd@craycos.com (Phil Duclos)
Subject: Pumps
I spotted an advertisement recently in Nuts & Volts Magazine for a
small stainless steel pump. The ad reads as follows:
Pump, Fluid, magnetically coupled,
stainless steel body, self priming
115VAC pumps approximately 3 liters
per minute suitable for RF cooling,
fountains, etc. Used, reconditioned,
like new $75 PPD. Mike's Surplus
Stuff, 800-769-7977 9pm-midnight EST
I called Mike and asked about his pumps. He said that they were removed from
commercial inkjet printers. They have universal motors, some are 220VAC, and
are reconditioned. I asked in what way were they reconditioned. Mike said
that they are cleaned and tested. He also said that they have 1/4" inlet and
outlets and were made by Tuthill Pump Co of CA. He did not know what the
impellers were made of. The model number of the pump he had in his hand was
D9879CWFK.
I called Tuthill Pump Co of CA and talked with Ron Tate. Ron decoded
the model number and came up with:
C = Carbon Teflon filled PPS (trade name Ryton) drive and driven gears
W = no bypass
F = ????? (Perhaps E? E = Ethylene Propylene) O-ring seals
K = Carbon bearings
The gear shafts are 316 Stainless.
The bottom line is that these are positive displacement gear pumps
capable of substantial pressure, low flowrate, made of materials which should
be compatible with most chemicals encountered in brewing. They should be
suitable for use in a small home brewery. Universal motors have brushes,
which eventually wear out, but also have the advantage that they can be
speed controller by a simple rheostat and can run on either AC or DC.
phil duclos
pjd@craycos.com
pjd@clouds.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 May 1994 14:02:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: mcullen@netcom.com (Michael Cullen)
Subject: More Lead... kinda
My first post, and it deals with work...
In HBD#1417 John Palmer & Norm were talking about Jack Scmidling
having his EM nickel plated. The nitric acids, and all the cleaning
processes are very closely watched in a plating house. Poor cleaning
leads to poor adhesion. A "peeler" is akin to a cardinal sin. Think
of it as if you gave a friend a 6-pack of infected/flat HB. :^(
(you feel stupid, and end up doing it again free)
Moral: dont worry, the lead is covered (thats why they pay us the Big Bucks)
(how do you make a sarcastic smile?)
-mike
------------------------------
Date: 6 May 1994 15:31:35 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Chlorine Bleach and Stainless
Hi Group.
Well, in response to a few requests of my Stainless and Chlorine /treatise/, I
dug it up from under the short leg of my desk.
(from last year)
In the recent post by Ed Hitchcock, he mentioned the current HBD wisdom of not
using Bleach (chlorine) in Stainless Steel kegs and the current interest in
iodine. I checked out the Metals Handbook Vol. 13- Corrosion, on Chlorine and
Stainless and here is what I found.
Chlorine (aqueous) is highly corrosive to austenitic stainless steels, which
includes the 304 alloy most commonly used for Food Grade containers. The
mechanism of corrosion homebrewers mostly have to be concerned with is Pitting
Corrosion. This is caused by localized concentration of chlorine ions. Those
ions become concentrated by evaporation of water containing chlorine. The
corrosion is manifested as tiny pits which, due to increased relative
concentration of the chlorine in the pit to the surrounding environment,
quickly put pinholes in your tanks.
To prevent this type of corrosion, the key is good rinsing of the bleach water
from the steel. First off, let me say that the 1+ tablespoon bleach per gallon
(4ml/liter) is not much in the context of the industrial corrosion that the
Metals Handbook is written to. Most of what I read dealt with continuous flow
through pipes, etc. Anyway, If you rinse with warm boiled water until you
don't really smell it, and then prevent water droplets on the sides by either
filling the keg with beer or drying them out with a towel, you will not have
the localized concentration necessary to induce pitting.
One other thing that can be done with Stainless Steel is passivation. A 20% by
volume solution of (HNO3) Nitric Acid will ensure a uniform oxide film which
will prevent the localized concentration/activity difference which initiates
this form of galvanic corrosion. But I don't think this should be necessary.
(end)
Additional information: Storing bleach water for more than a couple hours is
not advised. One brewer experienced thru-pinholes at the waterline of his
stainless pot when he let is sit for several days. The corrosion rate is not
lightening fast, but any pinhole that starts to form will only get deeper with
repeated exposure. When left to sanitize, the keg should be as full as possible
so that there is no waterline or other surface energy transition that will set
up the corrosion reaction. Corrosion attack is dependant on concentration, so
do not exceed the 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of bleach concentration. I believe
I read that these concentrations are effective sanitizers for a 20 minute
period.
Reading over this, I realize it is not the most favorable commentary; so let me
pose this parallel: Your local community swimming pools have at least as much
chlorine smell to the water as this concentration, and the stainless steel
ladders submerged in those pools last for years. So, Sanitize, rinse with
boiled water, and you should have zero problems.
John Palmer- metallurgist, patriot, brewer, & Tiger fan.
palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com OR
palmer#d#john.ssd-hb_#l#15&22#r#@ssdgwy.mdc.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 May 1994 19:09:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: PNEUMAND@delphi.com
Subject: Lower Calorie Beer
This is my first posting after having read the HBD for about a month and
brewing for about 6 months.
I am basically an extract brewer (due to a >full time job) who sometimes
infiltrates specialty grains while heating the boil water.
Unfortunately, I have noticed several effects from homebrewing that were
not evident with store-bought beers;
1. Belly getting bigger
2. Head in morning getting heavier
Is there any experiences out there to aid my plight? I LOOOOOOOOVE the full
beer taste
& don't want to lighten things up too much.
Will filtering reduce the hangover effects? Will adding rice (wince) or
diluting(wince also) help the belly?
[diluting(wince also) help the belly?
What exactly is it that the big boys do to make a light beer? Is there some
way to make a "better" light beer via homebrew methods?
TIA for any; (1) Postings (2) Private Responses (3) Pointers to published
Sources
\|/ \|/
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 May 1994 21:38:46 +1000 (EST)
From: David Draper <ddraper@laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Subject: Priming sugar question - no, really!
Whud id iz: Hi there, so sorry but somehow I managed to screw up in trying
to post this question in HBD #1418. Too much relaxing while driving the
info superhighway, no doubt. Let's try again, shall we?
I am wondering about the differences between various priming sugars. I
just bottled my second Australian batch, after which I noticed that the
fine print on the bag of "brewer's sugar" said that the contents were
dextrose, derived from wheat starch, and not glucose, which is what I have
used in the past. OK, so the print was an inch tall. Please don't shoot
me, but I don't have a bottling bucket and simply prime each bottle
individually with 1/2 tsp. Anyway, after 9 days in the bottle, the first
of these batches has only a mild "pffft" when uncapped, with nil
carbonation (flavor is great though--nothing else is wrong). I know it
needs another couple weeks conditioning, but in my experience with
glucose, beers like this one (fairly robust pale ale) are much more
carbonated at this stage. Am I doomed to undercarbonation with these two
batches? (BTW, the other is a stout.) Private email preferred, if it's
worth it I'll post a summary.
Thanks a lot, I'll try not to screw up any more posts.
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
- --
******************************************************************************
David S. Draper School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University
ddraper@laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia
Fax: +61-2-805-8428 Voice: +61-2-805-8347
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 May 94 08:38:17 EDT
From: btalk@aol.com
Subject: spruce beer
Pete Figura asks about making Spruce ale.
My advice is GO LIGHTLY on the spruce. I followed Papazian's Spruce ale
recipe and it was so 'sprucy' as to be undrinkable. One judge commented 'I
could drink only one sip'. And people think being a judge gets lets you taste
alot of great beer ;)
Bob Talkiewicz <btalk@aol.com>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 May 94 06:59:15 -0600
From: staib@oodis01.hill.af.mil (Maj Don Staib )
Subject: Extract
Rick
Well, I recommend you send an email message to mgaretz@hoptech.com
and ask Mark Garetz of HopTech for some Blueberry extract and a
catalog. Also, 1 800 DRY-HOPS will get them.
Mark's company specalizes in Hops, has some great prices, and does hop
oils, essences, and extracts.
His fruit extracts which come in Raspberry, BLUEBERRY, Cherry, Peach
and Pear are the same extract used by commercial breweries. 100%
fruit flavor, with no preservatives.
I have used his Raspberry may times, and have tried the peach once.
If you go for it, let me know how the blueberry turns out!
Don
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 May 94 07:16:00 -0600
From: staib@oodis01.hill.af.mil (Maj Don Staib )
Subject: Budvar "Budweiser" labels
Thanks for the response to my posting offering the original Budweiser
"Budvar" labels for those who would send a SASE. I have had a lot of
fun communicating with the respondees, however, I haven't heard from
quite a number of those that said would write, and I wouldn't want to
give YOUR label set away, so if the 18 HBD members who messaged me and
reserved your place in line would take this as a reminder...Thanks.
BTW, I have been including a set of Erdinger Weisbier labels and an
European beer coaster, just because! I even traded some coasters with
a couple interested parties. Keep up the Homebrewing.
The Braumeister in Layton, Utah!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 May 1994 11:01:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kinney Baughman <BAUGHMANKR@conrad.appstate.edu>
Subject: Legalities of a pub
Subject: Local Pub wants my beer.
>any details as to the legalities of this?
The first stop should be your state Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms.
You'll need a brewery license, you'll need to be bonded, you'll probably
need a label, even if you keg, and it has to be approved by the boys in
Washington (a nontrivial procedure). Depending on where you are and how
familiar the state authorities are with handling brewpub licenses, it'll
take you a minimum of 2 months, probably 6 months, to get a license.
I think our license in NC cost a $1000.
The Microbrewers Resource Directory from the Association of Brewers in
Boulder is the best one-stop resource for start-up info for small
breweries. Check out the catalog in the middle of Zymurgy for ordering
info.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kinney Baughman | Beer is my business and
baughmankr@conrad.appstate.edu | I'm late for work.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 May 1994 12:02:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: VIALEGGIO@ccmail.sunysb.edu
Subject: Fullers/Yeast?
State University of New York at Stony Brook
Stony Brook, NY 11794-5475
Victor Ialeggio
Music
516 632-7239
06-May-1994 11:54am EDT
FROM: VIALEGGIO
TO: Remote Addressee ( _homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com )
Subject: Fullers/Yeast?
Has anyone cultured & brewed with yeast from Fullers ESB?
TIA Victor vialeggio@ccmail.sunysb.edu
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 May 1994 11:45:32 EDT
From: Bob Bessette <bessette@uicc.com>
Subject: Full-boil extract brew questions...
I just received my new BCI converted SANKEY keg in the mail and it's in great
shape. Thanks for all of you who suggested going this route. I plan on
purchasing a King Cooker in the next week. I bought this in anticipation of
going to all-grain. What I would like to do first though is do an extract brew
but with a full boil so I can get used to the King Cooker and using a wort
chiller before I add mashing to the process. I'm also interested in any taste
differences with a full-boil extract brew vs my boil 2 gallons and add water
later brew. Can any of you out there give me any pointers about this. I really
don't know how much water to use with a full boil? I assume I want to use in
the range of 7 gallons since an hour boil will lead to some evaporation. I
would like to hear any ideas out there. I think after this full boil extract I
will be ready to mash and all-grain it. Maybe I'm wimpin' out but I want to
get a feel for all of this new equipment before I do an all-grain batch. By
the way, maybe I'm a little slow but can someone tell me what BTW and YMMV
means stands for? I feel as if I'm missing something here and I'm actually a
little embarrased to ask.
Bob Bessette (future all-grainer...)
bessette@uicc.com
Systems Analyst
Unitrode Integrated Circuits
Merrimack, NH 03087
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 May 1994 16:37:00 -0400
From: carlo.fusco@canrem.com (Carlo Fusco)
Subject: Thanks about hop tea
Thanks to everyone who helped me upping the bitterness of my brew. I tried
the hop tea idea...boiled 1 oz Goldings in 2 liters of water for 45 min.
All I can say is WOW!. It made the beer quite bitter, and added a whole
new hop flavour to the brew. I like it alot and I am considering doing it
regularely. Adding the hop tea really shows you what flavours and aromas
are driven off during fermentation.
Cheers
Carlo
- ---
* Freddie 1.2.5 * email: carlo.fusco@canrem.com Sharon,Ontario,Canada
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 May 1994 17:32:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: ELTEE@delphi.com
Subject: Astringent stout & Ca
About a week ago I posted here about the Dark Sleep Stout that was
astringent/bitter. It was suggested that it was from following the recipe
by boiling grains for 5 min and adding 8 teaspoons gypsum. Thanks for all
the help. I brought a sample into work and measured the Ca ppm with an AA.
I got 240 ppm. What is the proper range for stouts? BTW, this stuff
diluted FIFTY TIMES still was darker than megaswill!
hoppy brewing
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 May 94 13:03:00 -0800
From: jim.king@kandy.com (Jim King)
Subject: Homebrew Digest #1417 (Ma
Kent Porter said:
H>Last night (5/3) I had a sobering experience with my Jet (tm) bottle w
H>(J-shaped brass tube with push-down on/off valve; attaches to faucet.)
H>For the first time in 2 years of monthly use, the valve did not shut o
H>when I removed a bottle. The very hot H2O that wasn't deflected by my
H>hit the ceiling, cupboards, walls and cats.
Hearing all this trouble, and that of the bottle breaking because of
temperature differences, I can't help but think that there is no reason
to be using hot tap water through your Jet washer. Your tap water is
not hot enough to kill any nasties, so the benefit of the washer is
purely that of the scrubbing action of the high pressure spray. You
might as well just be using cold or luke-warm water. This is one of the
reasons that you need to sanitize before filling.
Jim King
jim.king@kandy.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 May 1994 18:57:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonny Miner <woof@eskimo.com>
Subject: Peanut Butter!!
Alright, someone mentioned it last issue, and now I can hold my silence
no longer. Has anyone out there brewed with my favorite food - peanut
butter!? I figure if we can discuss brewing with Count Chocula, anything
goes.
- --Jonny B-)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 May 94 20:33:46 PDT
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Wort Boiler for Sale (maybe)
I would like to redesign my wort boiler, but need to sell my current
one first. If someone is interested in purchasing my current boiler,
it will be available just as soon as I make the new one.
15.5 gal. straight sided keg with handles (like new shape)
hole cut in top
8" SS nipple silver soldered in side
Fitting welded in side to accept thermometer
3" bimetal thermometer
It can be all yours for $70 plus shipping.
dion
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 May 94 09:27 CDT
From: arf@mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Cheap Trick
>Subject: JS is wrong!, Split the HBD, and oh yeah Extraction rates
>Sorry about the misleading subject title, it was a cheap trick to get
attention.
Worked like a charm. I didn't respond because I didn't read it the first
time and far less importantly, I haven't a clue as to the answers to all your
questions. However, as you did get my attention, I have some thoughts on the
subject in general.
>Extraction rates (e.g. 35 points/(lb/gal) for pale malt) are based on 100%
efficiency. But when do you get 100% efficiency from a mash ?
Just for the record, the last time I used DK pale ale malt, I got an extract
of 37 pts/lb/gal. That's 106% for those not inclined toward heavy math.
I believe most of this is based on data published in one book from
measurements made on specific malts at some point in time and with some
particular set of conditions, equipment and process. No doubt others have
done similar measurements and there may be a wealth of data somewhere but my
guess is that the variations in malt from lot to lot, supplier to supplier
and variations in process, technique and equipment make this method of
evaluating efficiency about as useful as arguing about how many angels can
dance on the head of a pin. It also throws in an additional confusion factor
that makes it difficult for brewers to compare the actual results of their
efforts with results published by others.
From a practical stand point, all one needs to know is the gravity of a
gallon of wort produced by a pound of whatever malt is in question. To
extrapolate that real number into a mythical percentage of a variable number,
seems a bit silly and counter productive.
js
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 May 94 12:41:32 MDT
From: "Mark B. Alston" <c-amb@math.utah.edu>
Subject: Re: CTSP info
Chlorinated Trisodium Phosphate is made by making a 12 mole solution
of TSP and adding 5% sodium hypochlorite (bleach) crystals. As the
mixture crystallizes, the sodium hypochlorite is bound by the water of
hydration.
You cannot make CTSP by just adding bleach to TSP.
O.K. so CTSP is not simply TSP+Chlorine. But do we know what the
practical diffences are? What does this binding mean to me as a
homebrewer. I.e., assuming that bleach is not safe, why is CTSP safer
on stainless than TSP+Bleach.
John Palmer wrote in digest 1221 that what we as homebrewers
need to watch out for is localized concentrations of chlorine. He
suggested that we rinse with warm boiled water and then either fill
the keg with beer or dry it out with paper towels. In this manner we
should not have dropplets where the concentration of clorine is much
higher than the surrounding areas. Keeping this in mind, does the
binding in CTSP act as a wetting agent so that we keep the solution
from forming droplets?
Assuming that we can trust John Palmer, it seems unnecessary
to use CTSP at all. A simple chlorine rinse would seem to work fine
(and be much cheaper).
Anyone care to fill in the gaps?
Mark Alston
(c-amb@math.utah.edu)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 08 May 1994 15:14:02 EDT
From: KMYH09A@prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY)
Subject: Using Grains in Extract recipes
I have a question I hope someone out there can answer.
Is there any benefit to using grains in an Extract beer recipe?
Example using: Munich Malt, Crystal Malt, 2-Row..ect..ect
Or will I only get color from these grains and no real benefit without
mashing them
Larry
KMYH09A@prodigy.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 08 May 1994 15:14:06 EDT
From: KMYH09A@prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY)
Subject: Beginner in Mashing HELP ME!
I would like to start to learn how to become a "Grain Brewer". I'm an
extract brewer with 20 brews under my belt.
I have read numerous messages and files concerning All Grain Brewing, but
I'm confused when I comes to Sparging. and use of a Lafturn.
Here's my understanding (correct me if I'm wrong)
I place the grains into a bucket, with false bottom (one bucket with
zillion holes within another bucket) or pot add water at 1qt h20 to 1 lb grain.
Hold at the respective temps for the respective times to mash the grains.
(Can I mash several types of grains together?)
Then pour hot water over the grains (how much water?), then let the colored
water (wort) that comes out go into my brew pot.
I read somewhere that you keep adding water to the mashed grains until the
wort runs clear?? How do I know what the OG reading should be?
Then proceed as I would as in extract brewing
How can I figure out the effective rate of my mashing?
Help me if anyone can! Or explain it to me in SIMPLE ENGLISH terms. And
what equipment do I need to buy to "Mash and Sparge"
Damn, I'm confused!!!!!!!!!!!!
Larry
KMYH09A@prodigy.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 May 94 15:00:30 PDT
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: CTSP info
>>>>> "Mark" == Mark B Alston <c-amb@math.utah.edu> writes:
Mark> O.K. so CTSP is not simply TSP+Chlorine. But do we know what the
Mark> practical diffences are? What does this binding mean to me as a
Mark> homebrewer. I.e., assuming that bleach is not safe, why is CTSP safer
Mark> on stainless than TSP+Bleach.
Mark> Mark Alston
Mark> (c-amb@math.utah.edu)
Not the point at all, Mark. I never said or implied that. Bleach is
just fine, but it is not a good cleaner, CTSP is. Therefore, I can
clean and sanitize with a single product. That is the only reason I
use CTSP instead of bleach. If you never have anything which needs
cleaning, stick to bleach for sanitizing.
Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen@megatek.com
Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 May 94 17:20:04 CST
From: rsharris@students.wisc.edu
Subject: Carrot alcohol
This weekend I was getting the urge to brew something - anything - and I
found some carrots. I juiced up a gal, heated 2 cups to boiling and added
to kill bacteria, then added some champange yeast. After 12 hours it was
bubbling like crazy. Because it's such a sweet juice I figured there would
be alot of fermentable sugars.
So what have I made? Does anybody care? I know that there will be
some type of alcoholic drink produced, but what is it?
I'm going to give it a few weeks then rack it and let it settle for a few
more. If anybody has suggestions let me know. I'll post the results and any
recommendations sent to me.
Robb S. Harris
******************************************************************
* Robb S. Harris *
* rsharris@students.wisc.edu *
* *
* If I found myself on another planet *
* I'd probably be a holy sandwich-maker *
******************************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 May 94 16:51:26 PDT
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: SOLD: Wort Boiler for Sale (maybe)
>>>>> "Dion" == Dion Hollenbeck <hollen@megatek.com> writes:
Dion> 15.5 gal. straight sided keg with handles (like new shape)
Dion> hole cut in top
Dion> 8" SS nipple silver soldered in side
Dion> Fitting welded in side to accept thermometer
Dion> 3" bimetal thermometer
This has been sold.
dion
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 00:41:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: "David B. Ebenstein" <debenste@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Stainless pot source??
We're looking for a large (ca. 5 gal) stainless steel pot for a brewing
buddy's birthday. There is a restaurant supply in town, but if anyone
knows of a good MAIL-ORDER SOURCE for relatively cheap pots, that info
would be appreciated.
Dave Ebenstein "Malt does more than Milton can,
(a Green Mountain Masher) to justify God's ways to man."
Clinical Research Center, University of Vermont
e-mail: debenste@moose.uvm.edu
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1419, 05/09/94
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