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HOMEBREW Digest #1420
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 94/05/10 00:26:36
HOMEBREW Digest #1420 Tue 10 May 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
My first time... (GONTAREK)
Evanston.results (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132)
Counterflow Chiller Question + Where's my Glatt Mill? ("CANNON_TOM")
Tried and True Porter Recipe Request (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Beginning Brewers (cush)
Homebrew BBS's ( LARRY KELLY)
Article (Ulysses Gallman)
Software (Maj Don Staib )
re Cl vs stainless (Chip Hitchcock)
Ireks-Arkady Malt Extract (Thomas Aylesworth )
10 Gallon Coleman Water Cooler (jim robinson)
Wiezen ideas (Carl Howes)
pin fittings to ball kegs? (Gary Rich)
Misc. (Mark Worwetz)
Liquid Yeast (SOC)" <mendrick@chuma.cas.usf.edu>
Specific Brass Alloys ("Palmer.John")
Cookers (Wolfe)
Never too long in the carboy ("Bob DelFavero")
kegging carbonation (Bruce Wiggins)
chlorine and you ("DANIEL HOUG")
Where Do You Ferment Ales - Summary (wegeng.XKeys)
Novice exotics/Exotic novices?! (pittock)
wyeast scottish, the verdict from this court. (Rich Larsen)
Re:Peanut Butter? (efrainm)
New Yeast Faq Sent to Sierra (Patrick Weix)
*.JPG Labels in Sierra (Mark Peacock)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 7:43:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: GONTAREK@FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV
Subject: My first time...
Greetings to everyone in Homebrew Land! Well, after two years of
extract brewing, I finally took the plunge over the weekend and
made my first ALL-GRAIN brew. It was my first time..and yes, I even
cried.
Seriously, though, I have a few questions for the collective wisdom
of the HBD. I made a golden ale using 8 lbs of pale malt, 0.5 lb of
cara-pils, and about 4 ounces of crystal malt. Everything went smoothly
(I didn't even destroy my kitchen...much to the pleasure of my wife!) during
the mash and subsequent sparging. The sweet wort tasted great!
After chilling and pouring into the fermenter, I read the original
gravity and it was 1.037. My first question is: Is this an appropriate
extraction rate for the given amount of grains? I couldn't find
an answer in Papazian's book. Is there a chart somewhere that states
ballpark o.g.'s for a given amount of grain? I know that this has been
discussed before, but I blew past it since I was only an extract
brewer.
Secondly, for my first all-grain batch, I used a single-step
infusion mash. From what I have read, a step-mash is preferred when
using under-modified malts. Is American 2-row pale malt under-
modified? How do I know when to use an infusion mash and when to
use a temperature-step method?
It is my understanding that one does a protein-rest during
a step-mash in order to activate proteases that chop up proteins,
thus making the beer clearer and ridding it of proteins. But
aren't aplha- and beta- amylases proteins themselves? Yes, I know
that they are, but why activate proteass when there are some
proteins that we want to keep around? Maybe I am confused about
this.
Anyway, I would appreciate anyone answering my questions.
Thanks in advance. BTW, I will post my first all-grain recipe
when I know how good it turns out!
Rick Gontarek
Gontarek@ncifcrf.gov
ps Making an all-grain brew certainly makes you feel more proud
of your accomplishment! If anyone out there is hesitant to start
all-graining, email me and I'll tell you how I did it cheaply!
------------------------------
Date: 9 May 94 12:56:00 GMT
From: mlm01@intgp1.att.com (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132)
Subject: Evanston.results
CONGRATULATIONS!
to the winners in the Evanston First
Fifth Homebrew Challenge
Best of Show
Rosette ribbon & First Second Third
gift certificate Dan Kasen Tom&Luann Steven Prentice
award Vienna Fitzpatrick Herb Cream Ale
Sweet Stout
Rosette ribbon Fourth Fifth
award Ray Daniels Tom&Luann
Strong Scotch Fitzpatrick
Ale Dopplebock
CATAGORIES
Ribbon Award
First Place Second Place Third Place
Light Lager Dan Kasen Ray Daniels Steve Prentice
11 Entries Vienna Oktoberfest Cream Ale
Chicago, IL Chicago, IL Skokie, IL
Dark Lager Tom&Luann Mike Montgomery Greg Onyshuck
7 Entries Fitzpatrick Trad. Bock Dark Lager
Dopplebock Plainfield, IL Chicago, IL
Aurora, IL
Light Ale Ray Daniels Mike Montgomery Christopher Nemeth
30 Entries Strong Scotch American Pale Belgian Wit
Ale Ale
Chicago, IL Plainfield, IL Evanston, IL
Dark Ale Tom&Luann Matt Sparami & Brad Reeg
24 Entries Fitzpatrick Mark Maltrich English Mild
Sweet Stout Classic Stout Chicago, IL
Aurora, IL Evanston, IL
Mixed Steven Prentice Tom Keith William Lamb
15 Entries Classic Herb Classic Specialty Fruit
Normal, IL Evanston, IL Evanston, IL
Mixed - Specialty David Schoemaker Tom Keith Steve Thomas
7 Entries German Weizen Cyser Mead Melemel Mead
Normal, IL Lincolnwood, IL Chicago, IL
I have no affiliation with this event, just as a participant.
Mike Montgomery
mlm01@intgp1.ih.att.com
------------------------------
Date: 9 May 94 07:10:00 EST
From: "CANNON_TOM" <CANNON_TOM@hq.navsea.navy.mil>
Subject: Counterflow Chiller Question + Where's my Glatt Mill?
Message Creation Date was at 9-MAY-1994 07:10:00
This summer we'll be making the move toward brewing in a
15.5 gallon converted keg on a King Kooker. Recently, out
discussions have been on the thread "how to chill larger
volumes". We've sort of settled on the Counterflow Wort
Chiller concept, and the question is how best to procure or
construct one. We're not afraid of spending money if a
really good one (better than can be built) exists, but we
are looking for the collective HBD wisdom on the best
approach.
Also, I put an order in at my local homebrew shop for a
Glatt Mill last January. Whenever I check on it, the answer
is always "I talked to the guys at Glatt, and they're in no
hurry to send any". Has anybody out there got one recently?
Are they still making them? I'd like to have firm
information that I will not likely get one in the near
future before I contact JS productions.
Tom Cannon
DH Brewery
Fairfax/Annandale VA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 94 09:59:59 EDT
From: Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu
Subject: Tried and True Porter Recipe Request
We used this recipe in our club "brewola" last year. Got raves.
It's a mellowish, easy drinking, but flavorful porter. The recipe is
derived from Foster's "Blackbeard's Butt" recipe in the Porter book.
Ann Arbor Brewers Guild Brewola Porter
5 gallons
Extract | All-grain
6.6 lb pale malt syrup | 8.5 lb 2-row pale malt
preferably English | preferably English
.5 lb English crystal malt | .5 lb English crystal malt
.25 lb chocolate malt | .25 lb chocolate malt
.25 lb black patent malt | .25 lb black patent malt
2 oz Northern Brewer hops | 1 oz Northern Brewer hops
1 oz Tettnang hops | 1 oz Tettnang hops
YeastLab London Ale yeast | YeastLab London Ale yeast
|
Steep grains in 2 qts water at | Mash grains at 151-153F (66-67C).
160F 30min, and strain into boiler. | Hop schedule: N Brewer for 60 min.
Add water to 2 gallons. Bring to | Tettnang in two equal additions
a boil and add malt syrup. Add NB | for 15 & 5 minutes.
hops. Boil 30 minutes and add 1/2oz |
Tettnang, boil 10 minutes and add |
remaining Tettnang, boil 5 minutes. |
Chill and add to cool water in |
fermenter to make 5 gallons. |
OG 1.051, bitterness 35 IBUs
Gravity for all-grain version assumes you get 28 pt-gal/lb. Adjust
pale malt accordingly to your system.
=Spencer
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 09:00:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: cush@msc.edu
Subject: Beginning Brewers
Ok...I cannot resist chiming in on this topic. We have seen many comments
on what level beginning brewers should brew at...many comments except
the one I make here: Let the beginner decide! One person alluded to
a cook not starting with chocolate souffle (I think). True, BUT: an
experienced cook who has never cooked that souffle could likely do so
after reading the directions once. People who are experienced with tinkering
and cooking may be able to jump right in to all-grain with little
difficulty. Others may need the learing curve that simple extract-based
kits offer.
==> Usually they know who they are, and will operate at their comfort level.
I know people who have gone in to all-grain from the first batch, and
others who insist that they want to stay with relatively simple extract
kits until they are comfortable with the process. We should (IMHO) assist
people at the level THEY choose. Sure, there will be some outliers, and
some people who get in to 'trouble', but what the hey - even that might
be part of the way they choose to learn :-)
- --
> Cushing Hamlen, Client Services | cush@msc.edu
> Minnesota Supercomputer Center, Inc.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 May 1994 10:54:26 EDT
From: KMYH09A@prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY)
Subject: Homebrew BBS's
Does anyone out there have any Homebrew BBS phone numbers?
Only if they support 9600 baud or higher!
I'm looking for BBS's that have a good supply of recipes mainly.
Larry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 May 94 11:10:40 EDT
From: Ulysses Gallman <IQC117@URIACC.URI.EDU>
Subject: Article
Please send the article on :
Microbrew beer/extract vs Grain HBD/Microbrewery(ST201811)
ULYSSES (Uli) GALLMAN ,,,
PO Box #5357 (@@)
Wakefield,RI __oOO(--)OOo____
02880 IQC117@URIACC.URI.EDU
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 94 11:50:03 -0600
From: staib@oodis01.hill.af.mil (Maj Don Staib )
Subject: Software
Anyone out there in Brewland know of any shareware/software that can
create images of the 2D holusion type? I think it would be fun to
take some of the beer (mandatory content) graphics I have and create
those hidden images for folks to try and "see" during a HB tasting.
Thanks, The Braumeister in Layton, Utah!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 94 10:50:05 EDT
From: cjh@diaspar.HQ.ileaf.com (Chip Hitchcock)
Subject: re Cl vs stainless
"Palmer.John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com> writes:
> Your local community swimming pools have at least as much
> chlorine smell to the water as this concentration
Smell isn't a very reliable calibrator. When I was a lifeguard (which
included the hourly maintenance of Cl levels), 1ppm of chlorine was considered
high. The recommended dilution of bleach for sanitizing is anything from 1
tablespoon to a quarter cup in 5 gallons, or 1:1920 - 1:320; I rather doubt
that home bleach is only 2 parts per thousand chlorine.
Or taking the calculation from the other direction: Smaller community pools
used strong sodium hypochlorite solution (i.e., bleach) delivered by tank
trucks, instead of the crystals used by home pools and the gas used by
large pools. A ~50,000-gallon pool (25' x 50' x 5' (average depth))
\might/ have used 10 gallons of ]bleach[ on a \\very// hot 8-10--hour day;
with lots of sun and lots of splashing to liberate chlorine, the level
could drop to 0 in an hour if the chlorination pump broke, so figure only
half of that gal/hr was actually active, giving a dilution somewhere around
1:100,000. Call it an order of magnitude more dilute than the low end for
homebrewing to allow for the more concentrated solution.
I can't challenge the metallurgical knowledge, but the analogy to swimming
pools doesn't fly. (I would also have guessed, if a guess were demanded,
that pool ladders are typically chrome-plated, but it's been a long time
since I looked at one.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 94 11:11:08 EST
From: Thomas Aylesworth <t_aylesworth@lfs.loral.com>
Subject: Ireks-Arkady Malt Extract
Can anyone out there tell me their experiences using Ireks-Arkady's Amber
LME? I am wondering what to expect for an o.g. using one 6.6 lb can of
their extract in 5 gallons of wort. Also, any comments on taste, content,
or fermentability of the extract would be appreciated.
I am hoping that, this being a German extract, it will have used Munich
or Vienna malts for the color, rather than the Crystal malts that are so
prevalent in other malt extracts. Am I dreaming here? Anyone have any
suggestions for other good German amber extracts?
Thanks.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas Aylesworth | t_aylesworth@lfs.loral.com
Space Processor Software Engineering |
Loral Federal Systems, Manassas, VA | (703) 367-6171
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 May 94 09:33:47 PST
From: jim_robinson@ccmailsmtp.ast.com (jim robinson)
Subject: 10 Gallon Coleman Water Cooler
I just purchased a 10 Gallon Coleman Water cooler at Smart and
Final (Lake Forest CA) for $22.95. Bright orange OSHA approved
deal you put on the work truck. Yeah I know, I saw the postings
about hot liquids and warranties in earlier HBD's, but such a
deal. What I did (sneaky and underhanded) as a test was to add 5
Gallons of 160 degree WATER for 1.5 hours. Of course if it
failed the acid test I would have to return if for "factory
defects" ;-).
I'm happy to report that after 1.5 hours the cooler walls were
in perfect shape and the water temp drop was about 3 degrees.
The Coleman has a kinda funky shape so the false bottom will be
rounded off square. The spigot hole already has a pseudo bulk
head fitting so putting in a brass fitting should be easy.
Won't be mashing for a month or so, but I'll make sure to post if
I suffer a catastrophic failure.
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 94 13:00:23 EDT
From: sdlsb::73410@sdlcc (Carl Howes)
Subject: Wiezen ideas
Spring has sprung, and it's time to brew a wiezen or three before summer
activities end my brewing for a while. I have looked through CMII and
found few tasting notes for the recipies there. What I am shooting for is
something very close to Weihenstephan Hefe-Wiesbier. Oberdorfer and
Tucher did not have enough body for my taste, and I've never cared much for
Julius Echter (maybe it doesn't travel well). Private e-mail preferred to
the address *below* (or I may not get your message). TIA.
Carl
73410@sdlcc.msd.ray.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 May 94 08:24:14 PDT
From: Gary Rich <garyrich@qdeck.com>
Subject: pin fittings to ball kegs?
Dion was saying in response to someone wanting to adapt a pinlock keg to his
ball lock fittings:
Absolutely NOT!!! Coke produced the specifications for pin lock
fittings specifically so that they had a proprietery size. No
portions of any ball lock QD will mate to threads on any pin lock.
This is a shame, since there are a number of fittings including NPT
threads which go on the top of ball lock QD fittings which are not
available for pin lock. I have talked extensively to the Hansen
technical people (they make the pin lock fittings) and they had never
thought to try to adapt some of the ball lock stuff to pin lock.
They thought it would not work, and then tried it to make sure, and
sure enough, it does not.
I was afraid of that myself. I'm in the opposite situation. I had the great
luck of winning one of those lovely 3 gallon ball lock kegs at the Temecula S.
CA. Homebrewers Festival raffle a couple of weeks ago. Many people were
waving $$ at my wife (you know who you are) when she went up to trade the
ticket for it. If there's no other way I will buy this keg his very own set
of ball lock fittings but I'd like to avoid it if possible. Does the above
"NOT!!" apply to going this direction as well? Everything else I have is pin
lock and if nothing else, changing hoses on the CO2 tank back and forth is a
pain. Since this little jewel will fit in the kitchen fridge I'm determined
to make it work one way or the other.
============================
Chris Pencis was looking for a tried and true porter recipe. You said you had
looked through the Cat's Meow. Look again at the Tina Marie Porter recipe.
This one is great, though arguable not really a porter (lets not start that
again...). My last go at this recipe added Redhook yeast, dry hopping with
Styrian Goldings and bottle primed with Lyle's Black Treacle. It was awesome.
It's an all grain recipe but should be easy to modify to partial mash.
- Gary Rich -
garyrich@qdeck.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 09:02:41 -0600 (MDT)
From: Mark_Worwetz@Novell.COM (Mark Worwetz)
Subject: Misc.
Howdy from Zion!
A few thoughts:
To: PNEUMAND
Nice to see your first post, but couldn't find your NAME! Don't worry
about making a ultra-light beer, just do what the big boys suggest: Get
some EXCERSICE by playing on the beach with bikini-clad babes, or go
skiing off a high rise, or go climbing up a mountain, or shovel snow
off a billboard, etc. you don't see fat people in their commercials, do you?
To: Robb Harris
Sounds like you have discovered why Bugs Bunny (TM) was such a wild, party
kind of guy. High-octane carrot juice! Perhaps you could call it
BunnyBrau (TM).
In regards to the wort chilling with less water, try filling your sink with
a bag of ice and cold water. Then use a pump to recirculate the water through
your chiller. I am only a partial boiler, but this will chill 3 gallons
of wort for only $1 of ice and three gallons of water. The warmed water is
then used to wash the brewpot and other stuff. If you live in a dry climate,
a swamp-cooler pump is ideal and pretty cheap.
Calmly enjoying spring and a homebrew in Utarrr,
Mark Worwetz
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 15:44:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Jon Mendrick (SOC)" <mendrick@chuma.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: Liquid Yeast
In regards to Eric Tilbrook's comments on liquid yeast, I must say that I
have experienced the same results. I recently brewed some immitation
Newcastle with London Ale liquid yeast and let me tell you this:
I had alien objects floating in my carboy for 5-6 days.
The stench of the yeast filled my closet for a week.
The primary ferment didn't even start for 3 days, although it
did eventually take off and lasted 5 days.
However, I haven't tried it yet, so I have no idea if liquid yeast is
better than dried yeast. The guys at the Brew Shack here in Tampa told
me that it was better. They haven't steered me wrong yet, so I have to
believe them. I'll wait and see!
------------------------------
Date: 9 May 1994 08:50:03 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Specific Brass Alloys
Dave Suurballe wrote:
>I have just learned that the brass I use is:
>ASTM B-16 Alloy 360 and
>ASTM B-453 Alloy 353 or 345.
Okay Dave, What you want to look at here are the alloy #s, the 360, 353 and
345.
The ASTM Spec.s just tell you to what specification the alloys are Produced to.
Its the other numbers that specify the composition. So, going back to the UNS
table I posted, for example: UNS C36000 is alloy 360 from above. The C stands
for Copper and the folks at UNS add two zeros to make the designation length
agree with other alloys, such as steels which use the last two places to
indicate grade or temper. So,
360 is UNS C36000 and has 3% lead.
353 is C35300 at 1.8% lead and
345 is C34500 at 2% .
John Palmer MDA-SSD M&P
palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com OR
palmer#d#john.ssd-hb_#l#15&22#r#@ssdgwy.mdc.com
------------------------------
Date: 9 May 94 08:53 CST
From: Wolfe@act-12-po.act.org
Subject: Cookers
My 15.5 gallon SS boiler is almost ready for action. I need some
info though:
1) Where can I get neoprene washers? I don't want to weld the
nipple on. I was told that neoprene would be water tight and that it would
withstand the heat of the boil. Unfortunately, I can't find any.
2) Anyone with experience with the various burners, please send me
information about your satisfaction. I'm particularly interested in people
who have used a burner with a 15.5 gallon SS keg setup (BTUs, time to
bring 10 gallons to boil, cost, how well it fits the bottom of the
boiler, where I can get one). I'd also like to hear from anyone who has
experience and/or insights about how to set up a ventilation system for
using one of these oxygen suckers in a basement.
Send private email to:
Ed Wolfe
wolfe@act-12-po.act.org
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 May 94 15:18:39
From: "Bob DelFavero" <delf@microrim.com>
Subject: Never too long in the carboy
pqmertz@fergus.cfa.com wrote to ask if he should bother with a beer that's
been in the secondary since January. I'd say go for it, but don't expect it
to be the best beer you ever made.
I recently bottled a batch that spent 13 months in the secondary, and it's
come out just fine. Here's what I'd do: First, inspect it and taste it. If
it's not visibly contaminated and doesn't taste off, pat yourself on the
back for your good sanitation and then make up a yeast starter and add it
to the bottling bucket along with your priming sugar. Bottle as usual.
I actually had two batches that sat side by side for 13 months. One picked
up some sort of mold and had to be used as bathtub ring remover. The batch
that I bottled has a little more sediment than I usually see, and the
carbonation and head retention are on the low side, but I underprimed so
I'm not entirely willing to blame the long secondary time for that. The
beer was a very hoppy IPA type, and the long aging has mellowed the hop
bite, but it's still a very drinkable, hoppy beer.
Robert Del Favero The Bunny Brewery Bellevue, WA
delf@microrim.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 May 1994 15:40:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Bruce Wiggins <FAC_BWIGGINS@VAX1.ACS.JMU.EDU>
Subject: kegging carbonation
I have just started kegging my brew, and would like to ask any experienced
keggers out there: how long does it take to force-pressurize a 5-gal batch of
refrigerator-temperature beer? I have tried using 10 psi, and this seems to
take days to get good carbonation. When I put more pressure on it (20-25 psi),
it tends to over-carbonate. What is the optimum pressure/time for
force-carbonation?
Thanks in advance!
Bruce Wiggins (aka Brew Swiggins)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 15:10:57 CST
From: "DANIEL HOUG" <HOUGD@mdh-bemidji.health.state.mn.us>
Subject: chlorine and you
Here's some facinating (ack) info on chlorine for your perusal or
rejection. First off, a reader queried as to what the advantage of
Chlorinated Trisodium Phosphate might be over regular chlorine rinse--
probably the major one is that TSP is a good cleaner for many types
of residue and a clean surface is absolutely necessary for proper
sanitizing. If your articles to be sanitized are clean, then there
is little advantage.
Second, here are some relative concentrations of free chlorine for
comparison purposes:
chlorinated public water= typically 0.5-1.0 PPM
swimming pools= 1.0-3.0 but as high as 10 PPM in Europe
restaraunt sanitizing in three compartment sink= 50 PPM
Chemical test papers that indicate the PPm of chlorine in solution
(10 to 200 ppm range) are availablefrom National Chemicals Inc.
1-800-533-0027 (NOT an endorsement, just a source) and are about a
buck for a vial of a 100 or so. Note: nearly EVERYBODY uses
chlorine in excess of the amount needed to sanitize (50PPM) so these
test strips are interesting to use to see how little bleach it really
takes.
Third, I stupidly left about 1/2 cup of bleach mixed with about 1
gallon water stand in my Cornelius keg for a month or so (under CO2
pressure no less). The corrosive environment with -lots- of contact
time DID perforate the stainless steel so now I can shoot a very fine
stream out of my keg about 15 feet! Not cool. However, incidental
sanitizing of your stainless/aluminum/ brass(!) parts followed by a
rinse is perfectly acceptable. This rinse could even be
optional if it weren't for the undesireable effects upon
taste of beverage. Restaraunts have been doing so for
years with no ill effects upon their equipment, state rules even
require the sanitizing
rinse to be the LAST step in the wash, rinse, sanitize process.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 14:07:59 PDT
From: wegeng.XKeys@xerox.com
Subject: Where Do You Ferment Ales - Summary
A week ago I asked about where people ferment ales. Most of the replies
discussed fermenting in rooms that were between 60 and 70 degrees F, such as
bathrooms, kitchens, home offices, and basements. Most replies also discussed
blocking light through the use of dark rooms, blankets, towels, and paper bags.
A couple people mentioned that the fermentation temperature will not
necessarily be the same as the ambient air temperature, sine fermentation gives
off heat. Someone also mentioned that a concrete floor may be cooler than the
ambient air, which would tend to lower the temperature in the fermenter.
Many thanks to everyone who replied.
/Don
dlw.xkeys@xerox.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 May 1994 12:58:06 +1000
From: pittock@rsbs2.anu.edu.au
Subject: Novice exotics/Exotic novices?!
Continuing the current thread:
>Some random comments from the Miskatonic Zythepsary:
>
>Jeff Benjamin wondered why novice homebrewers don't just do "simple stuff"
>and stay away from the "complicated" recipes with spices, herbs, peanut
>butter, etc. Well, gee, Jeff, speaking as a novice ... It's my homebrew,
>why shouldn't I screw it up royally if I want to?
To add my 2c worth (US 1.5c) to the "novice brewers doing their wild
thing":
I was quite preoccupied with brewing stout (extract style) whilst I was
starting out. I experimented with using a Coopers Stout kit, plus adding
varying amounts of light and dark malt extracts. Then I wanted to make a
seriously gutsy stout so got into using 500g of Malto-dextrin
(non-fermentable).
The exotic twist came with the addition of one seed from "star anise"
(aniseed used in asian cooking) into each bottle (750ml). At a month in
the bottle the brew took on a delicate aniseed/licorice palate - not quite
identifiable to the unknowing, but noticable as "interesting". As the brew
aged/evolved, the aniseed palate strengthened. At 18 months the last
bottle was downed at a special occasion - a small glass each was quite
enough! It became a cross between a respectable stout and the liquor ouzo.
I don't intend on repeating it - but it was a turning point for a kit
brewer. That brew put me on the trail to mashing (every kit brewer MUST
try a partial mash - it changes your perception of what homebrew can be!)
The legend of the aniseed stout lives on in the hearts and minds of those
from Monash University Dept Genetics.
Chris Pittock.
|\___/\___
| o \
| Wibble --------
| _________/
|/ /|
/ |
/ | /|
_______________/ |__ / |
__/ ------------ |
/ {@} |
/.. Bruce |
. VVvvvvvvv\ )) |
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o< /o \// AAA^^^^^^/ ___-------- \ |
o< )____ __/\\ \_____________\ \------- \|
o< \\ \ \__\
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Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 14:37:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rich Larsen <richl@access1.speedway.net>
Subject: wyeast scottish, the verdict from this court.
In HBD1416
dipalma@sky.com (Jim Dipalma)
Writes, responding to me :
> Hi All,
>
> In HBD#1415, Rich Larsen continues the discussion of Wyeast Scottish:
>
>>Perhaps it is the yeast itself. The effect went away after about a week
>>more in the keg. In short the yeast settled out. I would suspect that the
>>concentration of the yeast in suspension from your "secondary" sample, would
>>be as high or higher than my impatient tapping of the keg.
>
> I suspect it does have something to do with the yeast. I was going to
>post, asking about the flocculation characteristics of this yeast. After
>8 days in primary, I racked to secondary and left it for another 18 days.
>Despite the lengthy secondary, the beer was quite cloudy at that point, it
>seems to be a very poor flocculator. I should add the wort was crystal
>clear going into the fermenter.
> I placed the keg in a fridge at 40F, figuring that a period of cold
>conditioning would help settle out the yeast. After about a week, I tapped
>it. The beer had cleared considerably, I consumed a pint, and felt fine the
>next day.
Well the verdict is in, on a re-trial anyway. Batch 2, made with the dregs
of the previous batch was consumed by several knowlegable homebrewers. I
should note, several gallons were consumed. I had at least 8 pints during
the course of the day, as did the other guests. In fact, I had to suggest
that we switch to the case of special micros (Thanks Andy!) so the homebrew
would make it through the evening. Anyway to make a long story longer, after
at least 10 hours of partying and drinking mostly the homebrew, I woke up
the next day, after only 6 hours of sleep, feeling fine, feeling perfect,
feeling better than when I went to bed (that IS the point of sleep isn't
it :-) ) In fact I was feeling so good, I was ready to go again after
breakfast. So it aint the yeast's fault in the previous batch.
A few notes about the second batch, SG 1070 FG 1014! Fermented perhaps a bit
lower, low to mid 60sF. Beautiful strawberry
ester in the pitcher from the keg, mighty caramel flavor, with a tad of
roasted barley. An EXCELLENT beer! If anyone wants the recipe, E-mail
me and I will oblige, if enough requests I'll post.
SO.... do not discount the Wyeast Scottish. It makes a wonderful brew,
it attenuates like gangbusters and clears fairly quickly. If you watch
the fermentation temperature, I think you will do ok with this yeast.
=> Rich
Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514
The Blind Dog Brewery "HomeBrewPub", Midlothian, IL
(Not a commercial establishment)
"I never drink... Wine." Bela Lugosi as Dracula
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 May 94 00:37:08 EDT
From: efrainm@aol.com
Subject: Re:Peanut Butter?
I wouldn't suggest it. You'll get a nice oil slick on your brew, probably no
head either. If you don't mind greasy beer go for it,maybe you can call it
the Exxon Valdez Pale Ale.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 22:28:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: weix@netcom.com (Patrick Weix)
Subject: New Yeast Faq Sent to Sierra
Hi all,
I finally stopped procrastinating about the yeast faq ( I am now
procrastinating about something else which is why I was working on the
Yeast Faq), and the new Yeast Faq is now at sierra.
It is updated to include the new Brewtek, Yeast Lab, and Wyeast strains.
As always, I would love to hear about any and all terrific yeast news.
Patrick
weix@netcom.com
------------------------------
Date: 09 May 94 21:55:53 -0500
From: Mark.Peacock@f22.n2201.z1.fidonet.org (Mark Peacock)
Subject: *.JPG Labels in Sierra
Re: *.JPG Labels in Sierra Archive
Can someone please explain what format .JPG is?
Thanks,
Mark Peacock
- --- WM v2.09/91-0150
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1420, 05/10/94
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