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HOMEBREW Digest #1409
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 94/04/27 00:31:03
HOMEBREW Digest #1409 Wed 27 April 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Hunter Airstat Modification (Lee=A.=Menegoni)
Off to Seattle Area (25-Apr-1994 1047 -0400)
Holy Cow Brewpub in Vegas (Kelly Jones)
Transplanting hops (Eric Wade)
Malt Extracts (Truth in Labelling) (npyle)
Areation of wort (Jonathan Peakall)
Beer in Brussels and DC ("Stephen M. Jasinski")
1056 Data Point ("Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616")
Raleigh North C. (flehouillier)
re: strength of enamel pots ("Brian Thorn")
Re: More on cask ales (Jim Busch)
Subject: r.e. Subject: Bottling foamy lagers (don)
Apologies: Brewpubs in DC (Vanek)
air stones, aeration, hot air? (Jay Weissler)
slow fermentation (student)
Enamel & Cooker/ Love on a mainframe (COYOTE)
Under-Aeration for Scotch Ales? (Jon Higby)
Nashville Brewpubs (Robert Jordan)
Wow.... (keith.prader)
Viable Yeast from Bottles? (VIALEGGIO)
Carboy size: 5 gallon, or 6.7? (Christopher Jackson)
PRESSURE & HOME BREWING SYSTEMS (RB)" <Geiser@po1.rb.unisys.com>
ORACLE SPEAK (Jack Schmidling)
Pressure barrels/cask cond. (David Draper)
Re: IM and the EasySparger (Jim Busch)
Wort Chillers when water sh ("Rich Scotty")
Blowoff??? (Terry Mcguire)
Re: Wort Chillers when water shortages are a problem ("Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 10:47:27 EDT
From: Lee=A.=Menegoni@nectech.com
Subject: Hunter Airstat Modification
Here is the text of a previous post.
Coyote: I couldn'tget mail to you.
WARNING: Use of ACME electrical products in this modification could produce
unreliable results.
------------------------------
Date: 4 Jun 93 19:25:58 GMT
From: mkenny@bcm1g01.attmail.com
Subject: RE: Hunter Airstat Modification
In HBD1156 Bruce Ray asks how to modify a Hunter Airstat to maintain
temperatures below 40F.
I originally posted this last November and have been using it with
the mod very happily ever since. I use the airstat to control a
13cf chest freezer. I put the airstat in a manual "HOLD" mode and
simply set the temperature up or down as desired. The airstat is
designed to control a compressor driven refrigeration device (a
room air conditioner) so it is right at home with a refrigerator or
freezer. It turns the attached unit on when it senses a temperature
2 degrees above the setting and off 1 degree below the setting. It
has a built-in timer with a 4 minute delay to keep the attached unit
from cycling too rapidly. At 45F my freezer runs less than 2 hours
total in a 24 hour period and about 3 hours at 35F.
You cannot change the Air Stat range but you can offset the sensor
calibration. In other words, performing the following modification
will allow you to set the Airstat at 40F yet the fridge/freezer temp
will be maintained at 35F.
The sensor is a thermister that provides 10K ohms of resistance at
25 degrees C. According to the thermister data sheet, at 32 degrees F
: [m[K the resistance is 27.28K and 22.05K at 41 degrees F. The resistance
decreases as the temperature rises so if you make the air stat think
the sensor is 22k when its really 25k the air stat will say 41 but
the sensor temp will be around 35 degrees F. This is done by simply
putting more resistance in parallel with the sensor. Using ohms law,
Rt = 22K, Rth = 25K (Thermister), and Rp (parallel resistor) =
Rth (25K) * Rt (22K)
-------------------- = 183K Ohms
Rth (25K) - Rt (22K)
With this resistor in place the the range of the air stat is effectively
shifted about 5 degrees lower. Just keep in mind that the temperature
reading on the air stat will not match the fridge temp.
The thermisters change in resistance is not linear. It will change about
20k ohms going from -13F to -4F and only 2k ohms going from 68F to 77F.
Therefore the desired range of use should be considered before determining
the magnitude of offset. Although, in the 12 degree swing between 33F and
45F this should not pose a problem.
/------------------------------------------\
: [m[K |----------| | Airstat
|-----------------| |
\ | | | 12 : 00 40 | |
/ Sensor |----------|--(a) |---| |-----------------| |
\ | |
/ |----------|--(b) |
\ | |----\ |-----------------| |
|----------| | | | H | M | D | |
|----/ /-----\ |-----|------|----| |
Submini spst | / | | \ | PROG| HOLD | U | |
Switch >>> | * | | | | |-----|------|----| |
(c) | | \ O / | /\ | \/ | R | |
| \-----/ |-----------------| |
\------------------------------------------/
180K
(a) ------/\/\/\/------o \o----|
(c) |
(b) ---------------------------
I installed a 180K ohm resister in series with a sub-mini spst toggle
switch mounted on the front panel just left of the AC outlet and below the
pocket that holds the sensor. It is fairly easy to do since the sensor
leads are readily accessible. This switch lets me use the airstat normally
above 40 degrees when off and down to 34-35 when on. The airstat seems to
sample the sensor about every 5-10 seconds and will indicate the change
in this timeframe.
Cheers,
Mike Kenny
- ------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 10:48:10 EDT
From: 25-Apr-1994 1047 -0400 <ferguson@zendia.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Off to Seattle Area
I'm off to the Seattle area later this week.
Pls let me know what places have good chow and good brew.
jc ferguson
ferguson@zendia.dec.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 09:33:04 -0600
From: Kelly Jones <k-jones@ee.utah.edu>
Subject: Holy Cow Brewpub in Vegas
In HBD #1407, Don Staib writes about the Holy Cow Brewpub in Las
Vegas. But, he left out the most important part. If you gamble
there, THEY GIVE YOU BEER FOR FREE! I am not making this up! Their
beer is quite good, too, their English Ale won a medal (Gold, I think)
at the last GABF.
Kelly
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 08:52:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Wade <ericwade@CLASS.ORG>
Subject: Transplanting hops
Last year I planted two hills of Cascade hops and both did beautifully the
first year. However, some other plants in my garden have taken off early
this year and are shading one hill significantly. Although the shaded
hill has sprouted, the sprouts aren't going anywhere. I was wondering if
I might have any luck moving this sprouting crop to a sunnier location.
Advice would be appreciated. Cutting the offending shading plants is not
an option.
Eric
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 9:55:15 MDT
From: npyle@n33.ecae.stortek.com
Subject: Malt Extracts (Truth in Labelling)
Every few weeks or so, the question arises: what is actually *in* the malt
extracts sold to homebrewers? Would it be too much for extract makers to
give us some information? Are they hiding something? Just saying "Pale" or
"Amber" or "Dark" extract tells us almost nothing. We shouldn't have to rely
on laboratory tests to find out how the extracts are made. I would be
overjoyed to see something like this provided with malt extracts:
Base malt:
Specialty grains:
Mash temperature:
Mash time:
Is this too much? They could provide extract numbers, color numbers, and a
whole slew of other information too, if they wanted. Anybody want to bend
the ears of the guys at Briess or Munton&Fison, et. al.???
Norm
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 08:59:36 -0700
From: belew@netcom.com (Jonathan Peakall)
Subject: Areation of wort
I have been folwing the aretion thread, and thought of another possible way
to areate. What if I took a corny keg, filled it with water, and pressurized
it for a day or so with O2 from my welding tank? Would the boil remove all
the O2. I actually add most of my water during sparging, so I could get away
with it anyway. It seems this method would have two advantages: The O2 would
be sterile, and the amount of O2 could be controlled. What do you folks think?
Jonathan (Lo-Tech Brewing, Inc.)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 12:42:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Stephen M. Jasinski" <jasinski@whq.usbm.gov>
Subject: Beer in Brussels and DC
I will be in Brussels for a conference and related business from May 8-13
and I'm looking for info on the best beer bars/restaurants. Also good
places to purchase beer to bring back.
More on DC brewpubs. A new place just opened in Gaithersburg, MD, just
up I-270. I think its called the Olde Towne Tavern?? Right now they are
only serving contract brews from local micros, but will start pouring
their own in June. The Capitol City Brewpub is at the corner of
11th & H St, NW across from the convention Center. They usually have 4 of
their own plus local micros on tap.
Steve Jasinski (jasinski@whq.usbm.gov)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 13:34:13 EDT
From: "Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz@PICA.ARMY.MIL>
Subject: 1056 Data Point
Just brewed an ale this weekend with 1056 American. I recount several
people stating that they had problems (started slowly). I made my
typical starter (1# laaglander DME in 1 gallon H2O) and pitched the
1056 after the packet puffed (which was about 12 hrs. to 1 inch thick).
This was friday at 15:00. I pitched to a wort of 11 gallons at 16:00
sunday and by this morning (monday) had 2 fermenters under full steam
(ploock..ploock..ploock!). Less than a fourteen hour lag. Cellar
was about 70 F. this morning. (OG of the wort was about 1.065).
Glen
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 13:33:00 EDT
From: flehouillier@VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: Raleigh North C.
Now that it's been establish that Raleigh is not spelled Railey >GRIN<
and that the only real brew pub is the Greenshields, can you please let me know
which Holiday Inn is the closest and/or the best (there are 2 downtown)
Holiday Inn North on Capital and the Holiday Inn State Capital on Hillsborough.
While we are on the subject which other establishments should be worth visiting
for Blues/Jazz mixed with fine brews, incidently what are some of the "local"
commercial brews that one should experience?.
Again thanks for your help!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 10:52:58 CST
From: "Brian Thorn" <bthorn@nmsu.edu>
Subject: re: strength of enamel pots
Regarding the recent thread on enamel or "ceramic on steel" brew pots:
There is good cause for concern about the strength of the handles on
these units. My mother was once taken to the emergency room with 2nd and
3rd degree burns after a handle broke off of an enamel canning pot full of
scalding Elderberry jelly concoction ready for bottling. This was a tragedy
akin to losing a batch of your best Pilsner-to-be, both because Ma was
injured and because Elderberry jelly is like nectar of the gods to me. Why
am I only now thinking of the obvious zymological possibilities here?...
I use an enamel pot in brewing but I either avoid lifting it when full
or hold onto the wide lip at the rim. Others have noted that they avoid
lifting theirs by siphoning and stringing a hose from the tap for filling.
The caution is warranted.
On a related issue, after years of experience (none of it metallurgical),
I believe there is no reason to suspect that an enamel pot cannot withstand
the heat of a SuperMegaCajunKingCookerFlameThrower--as long as it's got some
kind of fluid inside (wort or water probably better than gas or kerosene).
Melting an empty one might be an interesting thing to watch, however.
Brian Thorn
bthorn@nmsu.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 13:59:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Busch <busch@daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: Re: More on cask ales
Glen writes:
> Subject: Cask Conditioned Ale Article
>
> Hard to believe no one has mentioned the article in Brewing Techniques
> a couple of issues ago. I *think* (forgive any mistakes, I'm at work away
> from my brewing piles) Fal Allen, of Pikes Place Brewery wrote the piece.
I liked this too. It was the practical side of tradition. I was a bit
suprised to read that they didnt like cask hopping at "higher levels".
They said they settled on 1/6th of an oz per keg, if I remember right,
claiming a tinny effect. I have used up to 40 oz in a 5 gal keg with
no tinny effects, this is with East KEnt Goldings.
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 13:09:59 CDT
From: don@tellabs.com
Subject: Subject: r.e. Subject: Bottling foamy lagers
>>> From: bszymcz%ulysses@relay.nswc.navy.mil (Bill Szymczak)
>>> Subject: Bottling foamy lagers
>
>I just bottled a Weissbeer last week, that had been in a secondary
>for about a week -- and had the exact same problem, though not to
>that extent. In fact I was also using a bottling bucket w/spigot,
>a short length of tubing, and a phils philler.
>
>I am still not sure how the foam was being produced -- although I am
>starting to think the phils philler may be responsible. It is nice
>to use and leaves little headspace, but it may be aerating the beer.
>I haven't had that much experience with the old spring-loaded fillers
>to say for sure.
I know this is a bit dated... sorry.
I use this exact same setup and have come to the realization that
its the valve in the bottling bucket. Mine always traps a bubble
around the intake to the valve which causes foaming before getting
to the phils philler. Next time you bottle, check the 3/8 tube and
see if you don't notice bubbles flowing down to the
filler. As you fill you can hear the turbulance created at the
bottom of the bottle as the beer flows in. I would bet the plunger
type bottler would be worse than the phils because of the small
outlet at the bottom. One thing I've found that helps is to raise
the bottle to just below the top of the liquid level in the bucket.
This lowers the head pressure in the line and decreses the flow
somewhat but allows the bottle to fill easier.
As always -- your mileage...
don
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 13:49:05
From: uu1072!Vanek@uu5.psi.com
Subject: Apologies: Brewpubs in DC
To those who read my report on Bardo in Arlington, VA, my sincere
apologies--my information was not up to date. I went to Bardo on
Saturday night and they DO have a brewery set up on premises. Good
beer too! Ran into a bunch of homebrewers who have made it a bit of
an amateur (impromptu) brewer's club. . . Again, sorry about the
misinfo. . .
Tom Vanek
Vanek@aepco.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 14:13:45 -0500
From: jay_weissler@il.us.swissbank.com (Jay Weissler)
Subject: air stones, aeration, hot air?
Cold water from the tap is usually highly aerated. If you pour a
partial boil into a primary 1/3 to 1/2 filled with cold tap water you
should have sufficient aeration.
I do a full boil & chill so I siphon against the side (mostly inside,
sometimes not) of my primary and let the wort run down the inside
while trying to keep the splashing to a minimum. This seems to work
for me. Fermentation starts fast (I do starter cultures) and my beers
can last up to a year. I believe that the wort is sufficiently
aerated this way and that oxidation is minimized. I don't bother to
shake the primary other than carrying it down a flight of stairs to
the basement. Man was made to lift beer by the glass not the carboy.
I do not understand why anyone would want to pump air into their
beer. I put an airlock on my fermenters to keep air out. Pumping air
in makes little sense to me and those I know who tried it, saw no
differences. If memory serves, yeast becomes anerobic soon after
start up so continued addition of air may actually hurt. If you want
to do this, however, I refer you to Moe's Marine Aquarium Reference
for easy to construct filters. These will help eliminate dust,
cigarette smoke, your roommate's noxious....(well, you get the point)
that would otherwise be pumped into your beer. Finally, keep the
pump above the level of the diffuser. Otherwise, you run the risk of
creating a siphon in the case of a power failure.
By the way Moe includes a good section on water from a non-brewing
perspective. Also, easy DIY charcoal filters for tap water and other
DIY ideas that may help. One caveat, most marine fish keepers like
to raise their PH, not lower it. Use these ideas to address specific
problems or for the fun of experimentation.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 13:42:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: student <vlib3521@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu>
Subject: slow fermentation
Two weeks ago I put a "Williams" stout into the primary fermenter.
Nothing happened for a couple of days as far as fermentation, so I
aerated it. The next morning it was bubbling away slowly. For the next
few days the fermentation appeared to progress, but never very
vigorously. I was ready to bottle yesterday and had sterilized my
bottles and was all set up before I took a gravity reading. It was about
1.030 and the recipe said it should be down to at least 1.022. I aerated
it again and resealed the primary fermenter. My question is this. If I
can't get the yeast to kick in and finish fermentation, should I rack it
and repitch the yeast? I am at a total loss as to what went wrong. I
have never had any problem with slow fermentation before. I live in a
very mild climate and the temperature has been about 60 to 65 degrees
throughout. I used the liquid yeast that came with the kit and the
packet swelled right away and I used it within a couple of days after it
had swelled. Anyway I am trying to salvage this batch if I can. Thanks
in advance for any advice.
Beryl Moody
San Bruno, CA
vlib3521@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu
P.S. I managed to redirect my efforts after getting all the bottles in
shape for bottling. I bottled up my first barleywine, following the
advice of several people on the list to bottle it after about a month in
the secondary carboy. My husband tried a sip and said it had quite a bit
of punch!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 15:36:15 -0600 (MDT)
From: COYOTE <SLK6P@cc.usu.edu>
Subject: Enamel & Cooker/ Love on a mainframe
> Bob Bessette (future all-grainer...)
RE: Subject: Enamel-on-Steel w/King Cooker?
>I just brought my new enamel-on-steel kettle home ...snip...only option.
Buy a King Cooker... can I use a King Cooker with an enamel-on-steel kettle
* FWIW: The Coyote Cooker (aka Camp Cooker by Camp Chef)
which has a rating of 60,000 btu ( I think it's 30,000 per burner, 2 burners)
has been used with each of the following with no problems:
1. Enamel on steel 4 gallon canning pot. Even lifted FULL!
2. Aluminum canning pot (5g). Yes- alum., even THIN aluminum!
3. 15 gallon heavy cast, restaurant grade ....ALUMINUM pot.
ALL have worked fine. I DO NOT get metallic tastes from using aluminum.
I have lost more braincells from drinking homebrew and smoking hops
than I think I remember to might have perhaps lost from use of aluminum.
I will be adding a Stainless converted keg to the Smithfield brewlocation.
But I WILL still use my aluminum. It works just fine. I don't clean it
too much. Just leave a crusty layer of wort. ALL I use it for is brewing.
Oxidize aluminum is pretty unreactive, whereas un-oxidized is highly
reactive. So I figure leave a good coating, then it's fine. It can stand up
to acid just fine. I don't get alkaline in contact with it. That wood be bad.
Aluminum is a better conductor than stainless, just harder to clean.
So I don't! Just scrape off the pellets and leave the hardened wort.
Since someone once worried about:
"not cleaning off the inside oxidised layer. If you were making stew, I
would say go ahead, because that "seasoned layer" as its called prevents
food from sticking. However, I would wonder what old food flavors might
leach out of it when boiling wort in it. Maybe if you do a couple of dark beers
first, it would cover it up. " Ok, so it ain't no Dutch Oven.
But the point here is: Enamel on steel should be fine. BUT, have a grain
of salt (or barley). My burners aren't as hot as a King Kooker's. But they
do fit a Dutch Oven, and brewpot just fine! You might consider a
pizza stone to rest on the electric burner, or flatten some pipe to position
on either side and rest the pot on that, to save the burner from strain.
As for use of a Propane Cooker indoors: The responses I got dealt mostly
with the hazard of storing/using PROPANE indoors. Leaks can become a
SERIOUS fire/explosion hazard. I have mine RIGHT next to a window with
a window fan pulling air & exhaust out. The room is FAR from airtight.
The propane tank intself sits outside to avoid potential propane buildup.
(you WILL know. Imagine really nasty fart gas from cheap mexican food!)
A window across the basement draws in fresh air. Most responses were more
concerned with air depletion than CO accumulation. I haven't smelled any! :)
I will be using it a relatively closed garage (big, fan exhaust again).
Many people use them in garages w/o hazard that I'm aware of. Let me know
if I'm wrong...please I can take it (as long as I'm still alive!)
Good thing Coyote's have 9 lives, and extras can be ordered from ACME cat#69L.
***
Kinney sed to Jack, "Do you realize how much time we've wasted?
:-* <Smack> :-* I love you, too, Jack."
* Now Kinney, Don't you think this could be saved for e-mail.
Talk about getting a little personal in public.
Come-on, get a room fellas! But NOT in Colorado! :) <kidding!!>
But really: I do hope this, uh, er...debate can now be considered resolved.
(ok, so I know better. Jack? Your serve.)
PS: Kinney are you really 6'8". Wow- you can make BIG beer with extracts!
FWIW: I thought I'd take this opportunity to chime in with some old news
I never did get to posting. A couple years back js and I arranged a mail
swap of some goods. He posted a very nice and flattering description of his
impression of a Cyser I had sent him. It was so, tasty and effective, that his
SO dragged him off to the bedroom before the bottle was finished. IMHO
that is a GOOD sign for any Mead- type beverage. I couldn't have had a
higher compliment, well except for my dad finishing off a bottle of it
himself. He is a mid->good quality wine-drinker.
Anyway... point being....Jack had sent me a bottle of a Pale Ale. I was too
impatient to wait for it to settle, so I had a cloudy glass. It was quite
tasty, smooth, a bit underhopped for my preference, but- hey...I'm a hophead
in a big way. It had a good head and was overall a very clean tasty ferment.
He had also sent a tiny sample of some brandy made from wine.
The joke, which I missed at the time (over my head!) was that the beer
was a non-alcoholic brew, and if you wanted a kick, you were to add the
brandy to the beer. I was a little embarassed, but I extend it as a
compliment, that for the life of me, I couldn't tell! Ok, so I was under the
influence of a couple of MY brews already, but I could not detect any
evidence of wrongdoing. SO... why bring this up? Cuz I felt like it.
Besides, sometime back there was a discussion of making NA homebrew.
Just so you all know, the method of heating fermented brew to drive
off the alcohol seems to work without detriment.
I'm not gonna do it! A good hb buzz makes for better howling! Owwoooo!
BUT...Jack,just so you don't think I'M kissing up to you...and the rest of ya'
I have NOT bought a Schmidling mill. I have an 'ol flour making wheat
grinder type aquired from an ex-girlfriend. Motorized, stone grinding
wheels. It does as good (better) as a Corona stone grinder would. I've seen
a Maltmill in action (Art's brew supply in SLC) and it seems fine. I'd be
glad to perform a comparison grind if arf would be willing to give another
mill away as a thanks for the 10,000 he has now sold. (to ME I mean!)
And I truly would post a QUICK response as to the results! No REALLY!
Quicker than you can say- "grind me baby, grind it good! Grind is fine!"
Finally: I did want to point out that in a video made by the above
mentioned Schmidling productions (tm,inc,esqu,mfr,etc.!) Jack himself
can clearly be seen SUCKING on the end of a siphon hose, and then
racking finished beer with a DISTINCT splashing and spraying of wort.
Later in the Video, a homebrew suppliers is quoted as saying, "90%, no
99% of the time the biggest problem for a newbrewer is due to oxidation. "
Just so it doesn't sound all bad: Jack had some very nifty time-lapse
imagery of yeast budding, and grain germination. Ok, so there was the
cheesy computer graphics (read: mouse). I guess it's an old production.
SO, now I've completed MY end of the bargain and posted a statement
of my impression of arf's NA beer. It was an all-grain if I remember.
So THERE! Nya!
***
RE: Hops. Red Spider Woes!!!! Seems to be my biggest pest!
Help! I hate the bastards! They CAN be devasting! Some of my new
cutting are under attack! Go away little beasties, be gone! HELP!!!!
Lastly: That "too hoppy" brew from Red Rock (in SLC) I would guess
is the Amber. It is dry hopped, and has what I consider a nice dry
cascade hopped flavor. It's not over-bitter, which is what I'd consider
"too hoppy". Have you ever tried dry hopping a homebrew? It's a truly
different beast of a hop quality.
Ok, so a hop-back'll do it too! Right Kinney! :)
Really lastly this time: Another brew pub in SLC: UINTA (sp?) 1700 S. 300 W.
Haven't never been there yet. Please report if anyone tries it!
o
|\
|\| \/| \-\-\- John (The Coyote) Wyllie SLK6P@cc.usu.edu -/-/-/
\ \ Originally in Logan, soon to be Smithfield (utah. shhhhhh)
----
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 16:17:49 CDT
From: unisql!jonh@cs.utexas.edu (Jon Higby)
Subject: Under-Aeration for Scotch Ales?
In the brewing series "Scotch Ale" book, Noonan talks about under-aerating
the wort. You are supposed to pitch huge quantities of yeast, but not aerate
very much. The theory goes that you don't want a bunch of yeast reproduction,
just for them to start eating. I think (and that's dangerous) this is supposed
to reduce some of the flavors normally associated with Ales. Also, you're
supposed to ferment at lower temps (like ~50F).
By the way, huge quantities means a gallon starter for a S.G. 1.090
Wee Heavy.
The variations for each beer style is amazing. This sure is a great hobby!
Jon /
/ Austin
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 16:08:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robert Jordan <JORDAN@ANLBEM.BIM.ANL.GOV>
Subject: Nashville Brewpubs
I'm going to Nashville for a meeting soon. Does anyone have any suggestions
for good brewpubs/bars to try?
Thanks,
Rob RJordan@anl.gov
------------------------------
Date: 25 Apr 94 13:11:19 -0800
From: keith.prader@wtgw.worldtalk.com
Subject: Wow....
Hello All,
I'm a new subscriber to the group (I've received and read all of 3 distribs)
and was amazed at the brewers wars (extract vs. all-(mi)grain) that I've
seen. I'm been a novice brewer for the past 2 or so years and (please
don't thrash me for it, but...) an extract brewer also. I've had some
pretty good luck so far with brewing some very tasty and pretty potent
beers. I even had one batch win First Place in 92 at the HWBTA in Dallas
for the Speciatly Pale Ale catagory (English Bitter Recipe). I've only
had 2 batches come out bad after I got somewhat lazy during sterilization.
I dumped those to the learning bucket and have taken more care in what I
do now. I signed up to this distribution to get some helpful brewing
tips, do's and dont's, and your favorite recipes (extract and all-grain),
_NOT_ to read why someone is a non person unless they hate Zima and
only brew all-grain recipes. Those of you who have made the
step/jump/leap/dive from extract to all-grain, how long were you using
the extract recipes? How much was your investment for the new tools of
the trade needed for all-grain brewing? I'm sure at some point in my
hobby I will want to make the change to all-grain, but until then
I'll keep on with the ole reliable extracts that have brought myself
and freinds many hours of frosty mug tipping hapiness. Cheers.
Please e-mail any of your favorite recipes and tips on brewing.
internet: keith.prader@worldtalk.com
x.400: /c=us/a=telemail/p=worldtalk/s=prader/g=keith/
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Keith Prader | "Get me a brick out of my back yard. Give you the
keith@worldtalk.com | devil if you act kind of hard. Ain't no need of
| bringin' no jive to me, 'cause your Southern Can is
| mine..." -- Blind Willie McTell
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
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Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 11:37:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: VIALEGGIO@ccmail.sunysb.edu
Subject: Viable Yeast from Bottles?
State University of New York at Stony Brook
Stony Brook, NY 11794-5475
Victor Ialeggio
Music
516 632-7239
25-Apr-1994 11:24am EDT
FROM: VIALEGGIO
TO: Remote Addressee ( _homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com )
Subject: Viable Yeast from Bottles?
Would it be possible to put together a list of
commercially brewed beers from which people have
successfully cultured (and brewed with) yeast dregs?
This would be highly entertaining, I think. It would
probably be best if reports were based on strictly
personal experience (not "My friend's mother's haiku
instructor...")
Pardon, please, if this exists as a FAQ--I can't access
those items with my account.
Anyway, e-mail replies welcome; I'll post results here.
Thanks, Victor vialeggio@ccmail.sunysb.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 1994 18:18:09 -0500
From: cbjackso@nickel.ucs.indiana.edu (Christopher Jackson)
Subject: Carboy size: 5 gallon, or 6.7?
I'm curious whether there's any sort of consensus on the best container for
primary fermentation of a 5 gallon batch. I'm about to purchase a second
carboy, and don't know if I should get another 5 gal. model, and continue
to use a blowoff tube, or whether a larger one--with its greater safety of
having a fermentation lock on right from the start--is the way to go.
Is getting rid of the nasty kraeusen worth the risk of contamination?
Do the blowoff tubes often get clogged and pop off? And just how
nasty is that gunky foam?
Thanks for any suggestions
- --Chris Jackson
cbjackso@nickel.ucs.indiana.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 13:25:00 PDT
From: "Geiser, Chris (RB)" <Geiser@po1.rb.unisys.com>
Subject: PRESSURE & HOME BREWING SYSTEMS
I need some help with two questions:
1. How much pressure (PSI) is generated by a 5 gallon batch in a 6 gallon
fermenting vessel ? (assuming it's not vented).
2. I've seen a few references to home brewing systems (i.e., a complete
stainless steel set-up similar to a commercial system scaled down to garage
size) and was wondering if anyone knows how much they cost and where they're
available ?
TIA,
Chris Geiser
geiser@rb.unisys.com
619-451-4851
BTW I really enjoyed Jim Busch's 4 part "article" on Cask Ales.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 94 06:42 CDT
From: arf@mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: ORACLE SPEAK
>From: ar568@freenet.carleton.ca (Aaron Shaw)
> I just read an article about food ingredients that can cause
harm. I was totally shocked to find Irish Moss listed. Included
among the reported effects are ulcers, colon cancer, and colotis.
Thanks for saving me the trouble of trying to make my process fit the nuances
of Irish Moss. I think I will stick to filtering if I want super clear beer.
>From: Kinney Baughman <BAUGHMANKR@conrad.appstate.edu>
>Subject: On bended knee, my apologies...
I did agree to get off his back if he apologizes but this sort of apology
demands at least one more attempt to straighten out the record.
>Oh, Jack. You mean this hasn't been about water after all? All this
because I've been rude, acted the cad and hurt your feelings?
Not quite but I would probably not have called you on the statement that you
still have not addressed if there was not the garbage in the background. I
am really too busy these days to keep everyone honest.
>Jack. Pleeeeease forgive me.
I do, with pleasure.... but why didn't you just let it go at that instead of
fabricating a story that makes your sincerity suspect.
> Almost three years ago, in private email, I rashly said I didn't believe
you had sold 100 maltmills. (I don't remember the liar and the fraud part,
"fraud" not being part of my lexicon but, hey!, if you said I said it, I must
have said it.
You also called me an antiSemite so the fraud is pretty tame by comparison.
>What I do remember is that when you were thinking about joining the
business end of the homebrewing hobby, you had asked me as a veteran
homebrewing business-person about the vagaries of this peculiar business.
Not wanting to dash the hopes of this anxious young wannabe, I remember
saying it's been a long haul but that things were beginning to change.
(Indeed, my and many other longstanding homebrewing businesses have more
than tripled sales in the last two years.) At that time you told me you
thought the malt mills were going to cost well over a $100. I recall
saying you would have a difficult time selling a piece of equipment for
more than a $100 in the homebrewing market. Clearly you took the advice of
this 10 year homebrewing business veteran, got the price down under a $100
and have a thriving business to show for it.
Nice self serving puff-piece but wrong on the key points. I would give my 3
year old grandaughter credit for recognizing the importance of $99 price tags
but if you want to take credit, be my guest. However, the discussion took
place AFTER I had sold 100 of them and during the consequent MALTMILL lottery
on the HBD. You called me a liar because you were unable to sell $100
Brueheat boilers in any comparable time/quantity and simply refused to
believe that homebrewers had that kind of money based on your experience.
>And I congratulate you on your success. Really. Your maltmill has been a
valuable contribution to the homebrewing community as I'm sure hundreds of
your customers can attest....
Thank you. Had you said that two years ago instead of what you said, we
wouldn't be having this discussion.
:-* <Smack> :-*
>I love you, too, Jack.
Me you too. Now let's prove it by dropping this crap.
js
p.s. How much did your yield vary as a function of water variations?
.......
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 1994 21:58:27 +1000 (EST)
From: David Draper <ddraper@laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Subject: Pressure barrels/cask cond.
Hi All, after the excellent series on cask conditioning and a couple of
subsequent followups (my redundancy of the week), I offer my experiences
in using a pressure barrel for that cask-conditioned feeling. I used a
King Keg barrel, 5 imperial gallon capacity. I think this one is superior
to the Hambleton Bard or Boots version because it has a top-tap system:
the tap is near the top, to which a hose is attached that in turn has a
plastic "floater" on it, so you are always drawing from the top surface of
the liquid. It comes with a CO2-injection valve on the lid, which allows
you to apply pressure for dispensing when the level of liquid gets
sufficiently low that conditioning pressure is no longer enough to push
the brew out. A nifty trick when using this is that, when you rack into
the barrel, you can *loosely* fit the cap, then attach your CO2 canister
and just *barely* engage it--so that there is a slight, but constant
stream of CO2 being injected into the barrel. After a second or two, the
CO2 fills the ullage in the barrel, and pushes the air (which is lighter)
out of the loosely-fitted cap. Another second later, and there is only
CO2 inside the keg. You then screw down the cap while that slight CO2
stream is still flowing, then disengage the canister and store the barrel
until ready to drink. I don't take credit for this idea--I gleaned it
from somewhere, but I don't remember where--might even have been netsters
for all I know (sorry if I'm not crediting a reader who told me about it...)
It is definitely true that, even with the above trick, the last 1/3 of the
barrel will have very off flavors if the beer is drunk at the typical pace
of a 5-gallon batch. However, if you anticipate a rapid-consumption
situation, it can't be beat. Great for poker night, for example.
Alternatively, just put a batch in there and don't touch it *until* you
have a rapid-consumption event. I would suggest that, with judicious use
of the CO2 canister, one could drink the first 1/3 of the barrel at normal
pace, and then consume the last 2/3 in such an event, and have good beer
throughout. You really do get the feel of British pub beer using this--my
British mates, some of whom were none too polite-for-politeness's-sake,
were quite complimentary on my barreled efforts, despite the drawbacks I
faced while brewing in Britain (as readers of my posts are now sick of
hearing: no liquid yeast, v. poorly kept hops).
Just my 2 pence worth.
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
- --
******************************************************************************
David S. Draper School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University
ddraper@laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia
Fax: +61-2-805-8428 Voice: +61-2-805-8347
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 1994 09:56:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Busch <busch@daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: Re: IM and the EasySparger
The "ORACLE" speaks:
>
> I put 2 tbs into my ten gallon batch about 15 minutes before the end of the
boil. I let it air cool for an hour or so then added an oz of finishing hops
> and put on the lid with the wort chiller built in.
So, did you follow the advise to rehydrate it in advance of brewing?
> Also, if Ulick is using Irish Moss, I can appreciate his frustration with an
EASYMASHER.... it just plain won't work (as a crud filter that is). I never
> said it would work with IM but it's nice to know these things.
Wow, sounds like an excellent argument for the SS perforated sheet false
bottom, but I guess you need to deal with dinosaur vendors.....
Seriously, I think what Jack has discovered is yet another reason why
counterflow chillers are better than immersion, trub removal. By combining
both the hot and cold trub, and by optimizing your trub precipitation, you
have overwhelmed the ability of your little home brewery to adequately
remove the trub. If you had used a false bottom as a hop back, the surface
area available to help seperate the hot trub would have kept most of the
hot trub in the kettle. Cold trub is not nearly as significant a problem,
and is easily removed if you use open fermentation to skim, as Jack and I
do. Cold trub can also be removed somewhat by bubbling oxygen in the
fermenter, essentially making a crude floatation tank.
Good brewing,
Jim Busch
------------------------------
Date: 26 Apr 1994 08:02:36 U
From: "Rich Scotty" <rscotty@denitqm.ecte.uswc.uswest.com>
Subject: Wort Chillers when water sh
Subject: Time: 7:55 AM
OFFICE MEMO Wort Chillers when water shortages_ Date: 4/26/94
> So, what suggestions can you give us as to how to make or utilize a
> chiller so as to use the least amount of water possible?
It seems to me that to minimize water useage, you are going to have to devellop
a closed system - in other words, recirculate the same water through the
chiller and find a way to remove the heat from the recirculating water. I
would use a fairly high volume water pump that circulates water from a tank,
through the wort chiller, then through a radiator to remove the heat from the
water, and then back into the tank.
You will have to play with the variables like circulation rate, total water
volume, etc. I'm not sure how efficient this setup would be, but it will
conserve water.
My guess is that you will also need a fan to circulate air through the radiator
and dissipate the heat. Sounds like an interesting experiment - good luck with
it.
Rich Scotty
"Given the most carefully controlled conditions, yeast will do as it damn well
pleases."
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 94 17:18:39 EDT
From: grctechs!tmcguire@grctechs.grci.com (Terry Mcguire)
Subject: Blowoff???
OK, stupid question time.
Why am I not getting any of the blowoff I keep hearing about?
I am using a 5 Gal glass carboy and a recipe for a simple amber (4 Gal).
I'm getting good fermentation (it's bubbling its little heart out), but it
didn't rise towards the top like the term "blowoff" would imply. Have I
done something incorrectly?
On a different subject, does anyone have a Murphy's/Guinness recipe worth
trying?
thanks
terry mcguire tmcguire@grci.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 94 11:32:32 EDT
From: "Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz@PICA.ARMY.MIL>
Subject: Re: Wort Chillers when water shortages are a problem
Allison-
If you do your laundry at home, run the water off the chiller
into the machine. This water would have been used anyway...
Glen
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1409, 04/27/94
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