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HOMEBREW Digest #1431
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 94/05/24 00:39:16
HOMEBREW Digest #1431 Tue 24 May 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Disconnect Homebrew Digest (Tom Dean)
head retention in "light" beers ("Dana S. Cummings")
Beer Cooking Recipes Please (Jack Boatman)
Malty flavor, German-style (Dennis B. Lewis Jr.)
Growing Hops / Gadgets (npyle)
Filtering (Dion Hollenbeck)
coddo brewing/siphon/toxic brew ("JSDAWS1@PROFSSR")
NE Brew Supply (Dwight Walker)
Maple Syrup Fermentation (Rich Larsen)
New England brew pubs ... (R. Keith Frank (keithfrank@dow.com))
Specific Gravity Calculations (Rich Larsen)
Excellent Porter Recipe (All-grain) (Jon Higby)
Wanted:Red Ale Recipe (Jim Pehkonen)
Mail Order Supplies ("Dan Trollinger" )
Sam Smith's Nut Brown Ale Recipe Request/warm temp yeast (AMBLAD)
Brew Filtration systems (rnarvaez)
sour extract brews? (Gregg Tennefoss)
Irish Moss (Steve Scampini)
A Schmidling customer sings (Steve Armbrust)
Equipment care (newbie question) (Julie A Espy)
BCI Address (Bruce Kindel)
UK hop sources ("Dave Suurballe")
Beer as food, weizenbier and yeast, decolorized iodine (Nancy.Renner)
Any Help/Thoughts Would Be Appreciated ("Andrew C. Winner")
Converting Brix to sg ("NAME SEAN O'KEEFE, IFAS FOOD SCIENCE")
California Festival of Beers (mike.keller)
Wheatbeer and Temperature control (two issues) (Paul Murray)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 07:13:45 -0400 (CDT)
From: Tom Dean <tdean@surgery.uiowa.edu>
Subject: Disconnect Homebrew Digest
Please disconnect me from HomeBrew Digest.
Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 09:12:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dana S. Cummings" <dcumming@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: head retention in "light" beers
In HBD # 1428 Mike Zentner asked for advice because his low gravity beer
lacked head retention. I am experiencing a similar problem in the
following batch.
2 cans John Bull light unhopped malt extract
1/2 # dark crystal malt
handful of choc malt
2 oz. cascades
I crushed my grains and brought to a near boil before removing, rinsed
grains with boiled water. Then I added the two cans of extract ~1/2 hour
apart (my brewpot was in danger of flowething over) and slowly brought to
a boil before adding ~1 oz. of hops.
Boiled for 45 min and added 1/2 oz. hops & 1 tsp. of IM. Boiled
additional 15 min. Diluted 4 gall. boil to final volume of scant 7 gall.
It took two hours to cool w/o a wort chiller.
Pitched a package of wyeast special london ale yeast. 4 day primary then
racked to secondary where I added 1/2 oz. hops. After a 5 day secondary
I bottled.
OG 1.042; FG 1.012
The beer is 3 weeks in the bottle. It tastes great, looks good, but
lacks a good head. I thought that I had enough malt to get a good head but
when I pour a bottle I get ~1/3 in. of head that quickly disappears.
Even in the short time that the head is present it consists of large soapy
type bubbles rather than smaller bubbles that stay longer. What's up??? TIA
Dana Cummings
dcumming@moose.uvm.edu
dscummin@emba.uvm.edu
Burlington, VT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 94 08:33:17 EST
From: Jack Boatman <c23jrb@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com>
Subject: Beer Cooking Recipes Please
Does anybody have any recommended cookbooks that focus on beer recipes?
I sure wish I could've gone to Chicago, but...
Charlie (or anyone) how about sharing the recipes :-)
*** First batch was great, second batch bottled, ingredients for #4 and #5
*** have been procurred. Wow, Homebrew is easy and tastes great :-)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 10:42:41 -0400
From: aw405@yfn.ysu.edu (Dennis B. Lewis Jr.)
Subject: Malty flavor, German-style
Spencer writes:
>> Ok, does anybody out there know how the heck Ayinger makes those
>> incredibly malty beers? I don't want speculation, I want hard facts.
>> I can speculate as well as the rest of us. If you've been there, or
>> if you have some "inside poop", please let me know. If I get ANY
>> useful responses I'll summarize back to the HBD.
To which Jeff responds:
>The Munich breweries have a leg up on you, Spencer. They have the
>perfect source of water for malty beers. Adjust your water accordingly,
>use Ireks Munich malts, keep the saccharification temperature up,
>bittering units down and, voila! malty beers every time.
I'd like to toss in my two cents (since I couldn't possibly BUY
anything with them:-)
A major point that is often forgotten is the decoction mash. The
increased melanoidin production adds considerably to that malty flavor.
The water content in Munich is high in carbonates and low in sulfates
(temp and permanent hardness, respectively). The sulfates add a dry
palate to the beer (like the high sulfate content of Burton-like pale
ales). I don't know what water treatment the Bavarian breweries use
for their water for lagers, but I know that Spaten uses CaCl2 in their
Franziskaner weissbier. I think they try to avoid gypsum altogether.
Third, the continental malts used for German lagers is higher in SMM
than other malts (like American or British). The slight residual DMS
contributes to the malt flavor. And lastly, most people complain that
their lager ferments smell like rotten eggs--a slightly residual sulfury
component is actually a welcome addition to increasing the malty profile.
- --
Dennis B. Lewis
Homebrew. The Final Frontier.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 94 9:23:34 MDT
From: npyle@n33.ecae.stortek.com
Subject: Growing Hops / Gadgets
Annie Fetter asks for information about growing hops. She didn't find the
information in the FAQ, and can't keep up with the digest. Well, Annie, I
suggest you look in the HOPS FAQ for information about hops. We'll all have
to pitch in to slow down the digest for you, though. Sorry to make it so
hard on you.
**
Andy Baird writes:
>Has anyone thought about using an *inverted* soda-keg for a fermenter?
I hadn't thought about it, but it sounds like a good idea. Its interesting
what you think of when properly motivated. For example, I was thinking the
other day about doing a (mostly) closed transfer between secondary and keg.
Purge the keg with CO2, and bleed off the excess pressure. Put the liquid
and gas fittings on the keg with loose tubing on each (sanitize the liquid
tube). Put the liquid tube in the secondary and suck on the gas hose to
start the siphon. The beer goes from the secondary, which is filled with CO2
(except for the small amount of air mixing at the top) to the keg, which is
also filled with CO2. One nice thing about this is you can sanitize the keg
days ahead of time, and do the transfer at your leisure.
Another idea I had was to pull the guts from a water heater and use it to
control your mash/sparge water tank. I'm talking about yanking the element,
temp sensor, and control box. The temperature range should be just about
right (maybe WARM for mash water, and HOT for sparge).
Or, how about this one: build a small keg system for that true British style
cask conditioned ale. I'm talking about a 1 gallon system or so, which could
be filled from the keg (with or without a counter pressure arrangement).
Then, draw off the beer, allowing air to fill the void as they do across the
pond. This allows for experiments in shelf life, etc. without sacrificing
the entire (in my case) 5 gallon batch. It doesn't have to be a pressure
vessel, I don't suppose. Maybe a 1 gallon cider bottle would work. Keep
those ideas coming.
Cheers,
Norm
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 94 08:32:36 PDT
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Filtering
Anybody out there filter? I have seen at least one method for
sanitizing and storing filters for beer, but would be interested in
hearing about other methods. Also, have you noticed a decrease in any
of the flavors due to filtering (i.e. hop aroma, bitterness,
maltiness)?
thanks,
dion
------------------------------
Date: 23 May 1994 08:49:08 PST
From: "JSDAWS1@PROFSSR" <JSDAWS1@PB1.PacBell.COM>
Subject: coddo brewing/siphon/toxic brew
I'd like to thank all those who responded to my brewing aroma problem. I'm
taking a pro-active approach since all he's doing is whining to the manager.
The real problem is related to his getting on the board 4 yrs ago and getting
that board to make him property manager. I was president of the associatikon
last year when he was replaced by a competent, professional management company.
This new professional manager sends letters when he gets complaints. I've got
quite a collection going on this topic. Here's the letter I sent
with the names changed to protect the dickheads
- -----------
May 19, 1994
Mr Property manager,
As a result of Mr. Budswiller's sudden chronic complaints re; aromas
produced by my hobby, I sought advice from several Internet user
forums in which I participate.
I received numerous responses which ranged from sympathy & revenge, to
legal referrals, civil liberties issues, and technical or engineering
solutions. I found this last to be of most immediate use. It was
suggested that if air flow between both units and the common hallway
were restricted the alleged problem would cease.
As an interim solution, I will place a rolled-up bath towel along
the bottom of my front door during the boil. This should reduce
much of the air movement between my unit and our hallway/landing.
I will continue the practice of propping open the common door and
leaving it open during, and for at least two hours after the boil.
Assuming Mr. Budswiller also keeps his door closed, I'm confident
he will be unaffected by any aromas produced in my kitchen.
A more permanent solution would be for the board to consider
weather-proofing both doors. This would eliminate any aromas which
either of us might fund objectionable. I suggest this as a
cost-effective solution in other buildings where aromas are a
perceived issue.
Please share these thoughts with the board and let me know what it
decides.
Sincerely.
blah blah blah.....
- ----------------------------------
and now on to something much more serious.... About 6 weeks back I posted
about making a mashton out of a Rubbermade 48-quart cooler with a copper
manifold jammed into the spiggot hole, and a piece of transfer tubing
attached to the spiggot and a pinch roller to control sparge flow.
My first beer thru ( a porter) can only be described as a poly-vinyl porter.
It has a combined aroma of roast malt and new car plastic. The taste is
intensely plastic/chemical and leaves an unpleasant aftertaste. I asume
that something from the new cooler leached into the mash. Also has a very
strange alchahol/chemical harshness. I suspect the stuff is toxic and
will dump the batch after getting a few more opinions. Anyone have a
similar experience ? I'm worried about the future safety and usefulness
of my new toy.
- -----------
My .02 worth on siphoning. I usually siphon by mouth but usually do one of 2
things...
1. a 'beer condom' or 2" piece of 1/2" tubing which fits over the end of
3/8" siphon hose. Suck on that and pull it off when the flow starts
2. rinse mouth with 1/2 oz. Jack Daniels or similar immediately before
sucking. (don't know if it works but I feel better for doing it :)
I rarely have infection problems, even with older beers.
| Don't anthropomorphize computers... They don't like it. |
| ------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| JACK DAWSON - JSDAWS1 - 415 545-0299 - CUSTOMER BILLING (BG) |
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 12:46:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dwight Walker <walkd01@bwco.com>
Subject: NE Brew Supply
Does anyone know what happened to NorthEast Brew Supply? I had ordered
many things for many years from them but now they appear to be gone. To
make it more puzzling, I even ordered from them just a few weeks ago. I
tried to call and check on the order but all of their numbers appear to
be out of service (even the local ones). Any ideas what happened?
Thanks,
Dwight Walker
walkd01@unicorn.bwco.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 11:57:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rich Larsen <richl@access1.speedway.net>
Subject: Maple Syrup Fermentation
All,
The controversey is over.
I just hung up the phone with Sumner Williams of the Proctor Maple
Research Center at the University of Vermont. It seems Maplwutt
has a traditional name. "Sap Beer".
Sumner was very helpful in giving me a little background in Sap Beer,
and why wouldn't he be helpful... he's a homebrewer!!!!!! Small world
isn't it!
Anyway the first reference to fermenting Maple Sugar/Syrup is found
around 1791 where it was discouraged because of puritan attitudes, not
because of the end product.
Sumner also references a book, "The Maple Sugar Book" by Helen and
Scott Nearing (c)1950, which talks about the making of Sap Beer.
Sumner paraphrased a historic recipe from the book to me over the
phone...
"Take one pound of hops and place them into a clean barrel. Fill with
sap (when it is running in the spring). Allow to ferment and the beer
will be ready in two weeks. The beer will remain good until June..."
I think I'll stick to the current fermentation technology, thank you.
:-)
A couple of data points here...
Maple Sap is 2% sugar.. Sucrose and Fructose.
As the Spring progresses, the Maple tree's natural metabolism starts to
convert the Sucrose into Invert sugar.
As Sumner has access to a PC and MODEM I invited him to join in on
conversations on HomeBrew University Midwest at (780) 705-7263
I thanked him wholehartedly and will be sending him a bottle of my
Sap Beer in gratitude!
=> Rich
Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514
The Blind Dog Brewery "HomeBrewPub", Midlothian, IL
(Not a commercial establishment)
"I never drink... Wine." Bela Lugosi as Dracula
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 13:03:06 -0400
From: keithfrank@dow.com (R. Keith Frank (keithfrank@dow.com))
Subject: New England brew pubs ...
I'll be travelling in New England at the end of June and would like
information/opinions on various brewpubs and bottled micros in the
region - Massachusetts, Maine, NY, Connecticut, New Hampshire, Vermont,
etc.
Private replies, I'll post summary to HBD if there is interest.
Thanks,
Bruce DeBolt
c/o keithfrank@dow.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 12:30:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rich Larsen <richl@access1.speedway.net>
Subject: Specific Gravity Calculations
Sorry about posting more than once in a day...
Does anyone out there have a mathematical calculation for temperature
adjustment for specific gravity of wort. It seems that by my observations
the adjustemtn isn't linear, but probably closer to parabolic.
In Short, I would like the formula to adjust the specific gravity reading
of a sample that is, say, 150F, to the proper reading at 60F.
=> Rich
Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514
The Blind Dog Brewery "HomeBrewPub", Midlothian, IL
(Not a commercial establishment)
"I never drink... Wine." Bela Lugosi as Dracula
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 94 12:12:17 CDT
From: unisql!jonh@cs.utexas.edu (Jon Higby)
Subject: Excellent Porter Recipe (All-grain)
Just wanted to share my most recent recipe. It came out absolutely wonderful.
It will bring tears to you eyes and inches to your waist!
Jon /
/ Austin
- --
Full Figured "North-of-the-Border" Porter
** 8 Gallon recipe **
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
10 lbs of Pale 2-row
0.4 lbs of Dextrin Malt (American Carapils)
0.4 lbs of Crystal 60
0.4 lbs of Chocolate Malt
0.1 lbs of Black Patent
0.75 oz of Perle at 90 minutes
0.75 oz of Perle at 60
0.75 oz of Willamette at 30
0.75 oz of Willamette at 15
1 lbs of Dark Brown Sugar
.75 lbs of DME (light)
Wyeast American Ale yeast (used a 2 qt. starter)
Single temp infusion mash of 2-row pale only @ 155F for 90 minutes.
Added remaining grains to mash-out.
Added DME & dark brown sugar at beginning of boil.
OG of 1.055
FG of 1.011
Split between 2 carboys and added 1 gallon water to each.
Fermented out in 3 days. Left in carboy for total of 13 days before kegging
and force carbonating.
Tasting notes:
Absolutely wonderful. Very, very full body. Chocolate malt comes thru nicely.
Nice balance between hops and sweetness. Great creamy head (brown color).
Head and mouthfeel of a Guiness, taste of a porter. Best beer I've ever made!
Sure am glad I made 8 gallons of this one!
- --
Denial clause: Prices subject to change w/o notice, actual milage may vary.
Fat-free, high fiber, tastes great. If you've read this far, you must be
looking for this: Any opinions I expressed are just that - my opinions.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 11:54:58 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Pehkonen <jpehkone@pmafire.inel.gov>
Subject: Wanted:Red Ale Recipe
I'm fairly new to the network, and have been brewing for about a year.
Does anyone have a good red ale recipe? Preferably all grain, but
extract or combo would be acceptable. Thanks! Send to:
jpehkone@pmafire.inel.gov
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 11:34:45 -0700
From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271@appenine.ca.boeing.com>
Subject: SRM values of commonly found bulk malt extract syrups
This isn't for me. It's for a friend. Yeah, that's right, a friend.
I wouldn't possibly know the use for this information. :-O
In any case, here is his post to me:
>From jmc8596@selkirk Thu May 19 07:27:17 1994
Subject: Beer And How To Drink It...
Quick brewing question. Think back to those dark days of
extract brewing... You're getting sleepy... sleepy...
Now, do you know the following? I can't seem to find the info...
Dry Light Malt Extract SRM?
Dry Amber Malt Extract SRM?
Dry Dark Malt Extract SRM?
Chocolate Malt SRM?
Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated.
Jon Cocanower
Private mail is OK to either of us, but maybe it would
be appreciated on the HBD.
Thanks!
Rich Webb
*********************************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 94 14:40:00 -0400
From: "Dan Trollinger" <dan@iluvatar.tip.duke.edu>
Subject: Mail Order Supplies
I am trying to reply to query in rcb 5/23/94 but can't find e-mail address RE:
sources for lambic yeasts. Hopefully HBD will reach original poster, but if not
this info may useful to others as well.For Lambic yeasts (Brettanomyces Lambicus
or Pediococcus Cerevisai), various flaked grains, or other brewing supplies try:
Beer and WIne Hobby in Woburn, MA at 1-800-523-5423
Gus's Discount Warehouse in Petosky, MI at 1-800-475-9688
The Vineyard in Upton, MA at 1-800-626-2371
standard disclaimers apply, no connection, etc--I just thumbed through an issue
of Zymurgy and called for free catalogs from over a dozen stores around the
country--It's a great way to check prices and variety of supplies--be sure to
check shipping prices
also, I believe there is a Belgian beer newsgroup that may be a good resource
for lambic supplies and info (don't know the exact name??)
while I'm rambling, could someone please send me the yeast.faq via e-mail. I
have ftp'ed severaltimes (and in many ways) but can't access the .Z
zippered/compresssed files or get the listserver to work--sierra.standford
archives are great but . . . I'd appreciate any explicit instructions for
accessing the .Z files, especially the old HBDs--I have a mac IIx if that helps
DT dan@iluvatar.tip.duke.edu "RUST NEVER SLEEPS"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 13:47:40 CST
From: <AMBLAD@cei.com>
Subject: Sam Smith's Nut Brown Ale Recipe Request/warm temp yeast
Does anyone have a recipe for Sam Smith's Nut Brown Ale? I am a
partial/mostly mash brewer, but if you have only an all-grain
recipe, I can ask friends in my homebrew club on how to convert an
all-grain recipe. I have Cat's Meow I and II, so if you can point me
to a recipe in either of these, that would also be great.
Now for my yeast questions. What strains of yeast (ale & lager) are
more suitable for fermenting at warmer temps? Over the winter, my
apartment was a comfortable 65-70 F, which I guess is also
comfortable for most yeasts, but in the summer, the temp will
probably be at least 75 F most of the time. Are there specific
yeasts which I should be certain to avoid at these warmer temps?
What are the effects, in general, of fermenting at warmer temps?
Private e-mail is welcome, but please post if you think answers to
these questions are of general interest.
Steve "sans cute sig (?)" Amblad
amblad@cei.com
in lovely Champaign-Urbana, Illinois (man is it flat!)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 16:20:42 -0500
From: rnarvaez@lan.mcl.bdm.com
Subject: Brew Filtration systems
Hello fellow brewers,
I have been brewing quite some time now....Not! I have been in the
brew circle for around 5 months now and my head is full of questions. I
have so many I don't know where to start. I don't think I'll ask all of
them at one time but I do have one that needs a good answer. I have
noticed that when I make a batch of brew (I am on my fifth batch, a
stout.) I make sure that there are not that many small particles left in my
wort, and I use Irish moss in the brew and don't shake up the
secondary before bottling, but I still get some residue left in the bottom
of the bottle after it ages and I pour it. I bottle in 25 oz. bottles and it
seem such a shame to waste that little bit of brew on the bottom of each
bottle. I know that you can still drink it but I don't care too much for the
taste it leaves in your mouth.
Is there some way to filter the brew? Does the filtering the brew cause it
to loose anything? And if there is some way to filter this stuff is it worth
it? Should I just get use to wasting that little bit with every bottle?
Please let me know what can be done to solve this problem. I was
always told that when you waste good beer it is alcohol abuse in its
worst form.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Ronald Narvaez
RNarvaez@lan.mcl.bdm.com
Never take life too seriously, it isn't a permanent thing. : )
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 16:28:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: greggt@infi.net (Gregg Tennefoss)
Subject: sour extract brews?
A brew buddy and co=worker of mine has asked me to poll the collective
wisdom of the digest in hopes to finding the cause of 3 failed batches.
The types made are a lager and 2 ales. Three different yeasts were used.
They were made in 2 different kitchens using different utensils. They all
fermented properly and the brewer is very miticulus about sanitation.
The problem is they all have a sour taste to them.
The only common denominator is the extract that was purchased mail order
from bulk not canned. The yeast all were "shop" cultures but were different
varieties. He also uses distilled water for his brews. He is also very
carefull to maintain constant temps and keep light out.
My suggestion was his extract was infected but he feels it was the yeast
that was infected. I may make a batch of all grain with his last yeast
from his supply but I sure would hate to waste a batch. I thought we
maybe make a 1 gal. "batch" of started and let it ferment out to test
the yeast for the sour qualities. Do you think this is a valid test.
tia
cheers
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 94 17:19:14 EDT
From: Steve Scampini <scampini@hp-and.an.hp.com>
Subject: Irish Moss
I was on an educational outting sponsored by the Audubon Society
on beachcombing this weekend (Massachusetts).
To my delight, one of the seaweed samples collected on the beach was
identified as Irish Moss. I told everyone about beer and Irish Moss
and they all mumbled yeah, yeah, yeah and went on to look at the
periwinkles. Has anyone out there picked their own Irish moss for
brewing and how does one process it?
Steve Scampini
"My dogma was run over by my karma" Bumper sticker.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 14:23:56 -0700
From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271@appenine.ca.boeing.com>
Subject: Nutritional content of beers
In HBD #1428, Don Rudolph asked about the value of beer as food.
A while back, perhaps a couple of years, Bud Grant of Grant's
Brewery of Yakima Washington tried to print nutritional
information for his beers on lables to be attatched to the bottles.
The Federal Government's representative Alcohol, Tobacco and
Firearms (motto: We love cults: barbecued...) came down on him
like a truck of empties. It seems that there is no way that the
government would allow the words 'beer' and 'food' or 'nutition'
to be mentioned in the same sentence. Bud was forbidden to print
this information on his bottles.
Now for the good news. He did print up a bajillion little cards
that when folded up, can be left on bar tables, so that patrons
can plan their evening menus while loosing focus. I visited
Grant's taproom last year, and I swiped one of these cards.
Here is the information that the government doesn't want you to
know. The feds will be knockin down our doors for sure now...
(Blatent theft follows)
(side 1)
Brewed in the Great Northwest
Using only pure Cascade mountain water, the best Northwest
barley malt, and the finest select Northwest hops.
No additives or preservatives.
Grant's World Famous Real Ales!
(side 2)
Grant's Scottish Ale
Nutritional Information per serving (12 oz)
Calories 145
Protein 2.24 grams
Carbohydrate 12.7 grams
Fat 0 grams
Cholesterol 0 grams
Sodium 75 milligrams
Potassium 195 milligrams
Percentage of U.S. Recommended Daily Allowance (U.S. RDA)
Serving size 12 ounces
Calories 5.4%
Protein 4.0%
Riboflavin (B2) 4.6%
Niacin 14.6%
Folacin 62.5%
Pyroxin (B6) 13.9%
Vitamin B12 170.0%
Ingredients: Refiltered pure water, barley malt, Yakima
Valley hops and pure culture yeast.
(End of theft)
Now I for one am all for something that gives me 170% of all
the B12 I need, in fact, I sometimes think that I need more
vitamin B12 than most people. Furthermore, I can
medicate myself. Who needs wormwood when I've got Folacin???
Rich Webb
p.s. Sorry about the multiple posts. I've been away for a while,
and I'm just busy as hell trying to catch up on the HBD posts
that were stacking up in my absence....
One thing about this group I've noticed. When someone puts a
ball (post) in play, there's no shortage of people willing
to pick it up and run with it.
Good enthusiasm. Potential for blood...
********************************************
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 94 15:37:21 PST
From: Steve Armbrust <Steve_Armbrust@ccm.co.intel.com>
Subject: A Schmidling customer sings
Text item: Text_1
Jim King complained to Jack Schmidling about "whining and blatant
competitor bashing." In general, I agree. I think praising one's own
products (in this case, the MaltMill (tm)) and trashing a competitor's
(the Glatt mill) is a belittling trait and will diminish one's
credibility (even if I do find Jack's comments more interesting than
most that appear in the HBD.)
Here's one customer's point of view. I recently purchased a
MaltMill(tm) and think it's wonderful. I wish I could compare it to a
Glatt, but I couldn't find anyone in Portland, OR who had one, and no
stores could get one.
I bought the nonadjustable model. Contrary to Jeff King's comments, the
handle goes on and off easily, just by tightening or loosening a nut
(maybe the adjustable model is different?). It's heavy duty and solid
as a rock. The base fits perfectly over a plastic pail and there's no
dust during grinding. Hand cranking 11 pounds of grain took about five
or ten minutes (your time will vary depending on how many times you stop
for a homebrew). And IMHO, the grind was great. I got 30 points out of
the batch, which was the highest yield I've ever gotten, even when I
ground the grain on the roller mill at Steinbarts in Portland.
I haven't attached a motor, so I can't comment on that aspect, but the
warranty didn't seem to preclude the possibility.
I have no affiliation with JSP, just a happy customer.
Steve Armbrust
steve_armbrust@ccm.hf.intel.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 15:49:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Julie A Espy <jespy@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu>
Subject: Equipment care (newbie question)
Hi all,
A disgusting newbie question: what should I use (if anything) to care for
my pretty stainless steel pot that I use for brewing? It seems like I
remember my grandmother saying something about how to care for stainless,
or was that sterling silver? Is gentle soap and water with prompt drying
ok? It was a gift, and I am a really poor grad student; if I mess up
this pot-nothing to brew in!
Personal e-mail is fine: jespy@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu
TIA,
Julie
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 94 17:24:41 MDT
From: Bruce Kindel <kindel@aster.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: BCI Address
G'day, all,
I inadvertantly misplaced the address for the company
in Tennessee that sells cut off 15 gal. kegs. Could someone
please forward it to me, please. I would surely
appreciate it.
TIA,
Bruce
kindel@aster.colorado.edu
------------------------------
Date: 23 May 1994 15:22:55 -0700
From: "Dave Suurballe" <suurb@farallon.com>
Subject: UK hop sources
I haven't been very happy with the English hops I have bought in California.
I'll be going to London in early August. Does anyone know where I can get hops
there? I'm most interested in whole hops and hop plugs (not pellets).
Also, does anyone know of any good beer stores in London for English and
continental bottled beers?
Thanks,
Suurballe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 94 22:41:24 EDT
From: Nancy.Renner@um.cc.umich.edu
Subject: Beer as food, weizenbier and yeast, decolorized iodine
>From *Jeff* Renner
I found the Zymurgy article "Beer and Nutrition" in Winter, 1984, pp 22-24.
The author is Doralie Denenberg Segal, a physiologist with the FDA, and she
uses data from the FDA, which I have added as columns 2 and 3 to Aaron
Shaw's data from Beer magazine, which is column 1. Please note that this is
to add data, *not* to start a flame war. I don't disagree with Aaron. I
love, make and drink beer, too.
Beer Mag. per USDA RDA*
341 ml 12 oz.
4.5% alc/vol 3.6%w/v,
4.5%v/v
Calories 140-150 148
Proteins 1.0-2.2 g 0.94 g
Carbohydrates12.7-12.9 g 13.21 g
Cholesterol & Fat 0
Phosphorus 50-102 mg 50mg 800mg
Calcium trace-0.2 mg .292mg 2-3mg
Iron 12.7-12.9 g** .11mg 10mg
Sodium 14-25 mg 18mg 1100-3300mg
Potassium 85-195 mg 115mg 1875-5625mg
Magnesium 36 mg 36mg 350mg
Zinc .18mg 15mg
Vitamins A,C,D,E 0 0
Vitamin B1 trace 0 1.4mg
Vitamin B2 0.01-0.1 mg .07mg 1.6mg
4.6-7% RNI (3.8% RDA)
Vitamin B3 0.23-2.0 mg
13.9-17% RNI
Niacin (B3?) 1.8mg 18mg
Vitamin B6 0.017-0.2 mg .18mg 2.2mg
11-13.9% RNI
Vitamin B12 0-170% RNI
Folic acid 52-62.5% RNI*** 20 mcg 400mcg
(5%RDA)
Pantothenic acid 7% RNI**** .169mg 10mg
(1.7% RDA)
RNI = Recommended Nutrient Intake
*Former name of RNI
**No doubt a transcription error, unless there is a 12d nail in there!
*** & **** the only significant differences.
I suspect that unfiltered home brewed would be higher in B complex vitamins
due to the presence of yeast, especially if the sediment is consumed.
Segal's conclusion after giving possible reasons to drink beer is "Beer for
overall health and nutrition? You've got to be kidding." This is of course
before the recent findings about positive benefits of moderate alcohol
consumption and heart disease protection. But still, I have to agree with
her that beer consumption is "fun" or "empty" calories, something most of us
have room for in our total diet, but not a significant source or nutrients.
Art Steinmetz asks about the "skin" or husk on wheat. That is the bran,
something barley has too. Wheat is a naked grain, the husk was selectively
bred away, probably thousands of years ago. There are some primitive husked
wheats. I believe emmer is one.
I just brewed a weizen using home malted wheat (and yes, the MM(tm) did a
great job, but it seems to work best to mix the malts together first to get
the best feed). I am surprised that maltsters haven't discovered Michigan
soft, white, winter wheat for malting. I've grown this myself in the past,
although not the batch I malted. The fact that it is white (the color of
the bran, as opposed to red) means that it also has fewer tannins and
phenols, and soft wheat has lower protein (between 9 - 10%). This should be
perfect for malting and using unmalted in Belgians. I malted it
conventionally, then dried it in a pillow case in the clothes dryer, then
kilned it in an oven! I've used it in small amounts before and it worked
fine, this is the first time I've used it for a majority of the grain bill.
The mash went as quickly as ever (1 gal./6 minutes with insulated Zapap, and
final extraction rate was good, just under 30 pts/gal/lb.
Christopher Mack asks about weizen yeast - why do the biggies filter and
repitch lager yeast at bottling, why does their yeast sediment taste so
yummy and his so lousy, and what is the best temperature for weizen yeast.
One at a time. As Dave Miller in Brewing Techniques (vol. 1, no. 2) points
out, "wild" yeasts, which S. delbrueckii (the weizenbier yeast) can be
considered to be, continue to produce their "off" flavors the longer they
are in contact with the beer. This is the reason to remove it at the end of
fermentation and replace it with neutral lager yeast for bottle
conditioning. Keeping the temperature down will also help keep the wilder
flavors under control with this yeast. Chris says he would brew with the
YeastLab Bavarian Weizen yeast if someone would attest to it. One of our
club members took Best of Show with an *extract* beer made with this yeast
this past year in the S.N.O.B.S. competition in Cleveland. It tasted
terrific and a judge's comment was "I can't believe this isn't a commercial
beer." YeastLab's instructions for temperatures are 66^ - 70^ F, but low
60s (where I have mine going) works fine, and should temper the phenolics.
Over 70^ is going to bring on the bananas. Nontypical disclaimer - I have
no affiliation but it is produced here in town, so I may have a local
booster's pride.
I think Christopher's sediment may taste lousy not due to yeast, but to
other late sedimenting stuff like tannins, maybe trub, etc. A longer
secondary might help, as would gelatin or Irish moss before racking prior to
bottling.
And Charlie Burke, you are right. Decolorized iodine won't work. The
regular should be right next to it on the drug store shelf.
Jeff
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 22:12:24 -0400
From: "Andrew C. Winner" <acwinner@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Any Help/Thoughts Would Be Appreciated
I asked about the strange white stuff floating in my
secondary a few weeks ago. I got one reply by private
email and someone on the net telling us newbies not
to use gypsum. I have tried to relax and bottled the
brew (a pale ale with 1, count it, 1 teaspoon of
gypsum). A week and a half later, I have very tiny
(sand or smaller) granuals floating (in suspension?)
in the bottles. The rest of the recipe was a variant
on the basic bitters (extract) recipes I have seen in
Charlie P. and elsewhere.
I'll ask again: any opinions? Is this infection, gypsum,
something else? Is there any way to get rid of this stuff
(a pinch of something and yeast and re-capping?). Could
some of you pause discussing the relative merits of
mills and advertising on the net long enough to give new
brewers like myself some help? Thanks in advance. Private
email is fine.
Cheers,
Drew
(acwinner@wam.umd.edu)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 23:03:19 -0500 (EST)
From: "NAME SEAN O'KEEFE, IFAS FOOD SCIENCE" <SFO@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu>
Subject: Converting Brix to sg
A quick conversion from % brix (as sucrose) and sg (20C for sucrose) is to
take the brix reading, multiply by 0.00425 and then add 0.9988. So a Brix
of 18 would equal 1.075. The actual value is 1.074, close enough for me.
I don't know how much difference there would be in sg between glucose and
sucrose (the refractometers are calibrated usually for % sucrose). the
error would probably be minor.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 May 94 03:31:00 UTC
From: mike.keller@genie.geis.com
Subject: California Festival of Beers
Re: Julie Espy's comment about tax-deductible tickets...
If one receives value (like a subscription) for a contribution, the
contribution (or at least the portion equal to the value of the
subscription) is NOT tax-deductible. So if one receives anything for
the ticket price (like free beer), the ticket price is not deductible.
This, of course, should not matter when it comes to helping out a
worthy cause (like the Hospice of San Luis Obispo County) or to
attending a beer festival! And although I will not attend (living
across the country), I appreciate being kept informed about all
festivals and competitions.
mike.k
zymurgy roundtable
genie
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 May 1994 15:52:15 +1000 (EST)
From: Paul Murray <pmurray@lingua.cltr.uq.oz.au>
Subject: Wheatbeer and Temperature control (two issues)
Mike McCaw asks if anyone has information on dispensing wheatbeer from
kegs. I worked in a bar in Edinburgh (Scotland) which had Schneider
Weiss on draught (I can recommend it to anyone lucky enough to
have access to a supply). We had similar fobbing problems when it was
first installed. These were cured by the addition of a length of beerline of
very small diameter (1/16th" internal I think) and exceptional length
between the keg and the tap. The pressure at the regulator was NOT
adjusted as increasing it resulted in a return of the fobbing. While
this solution worked it did so at the price of a vastly reduced pour
rate, and a slight (max 3 degF) increase in the temperature of the beer
once dispensed. I hope this helps.
Living in Australia, I am finding it difficult to control the
temperature of fermentation. The obvious solution of fermenting in a
fridge seems a rather expensive answer. Brewing in the winter is not the
answer either as temperatures can range from 4-26 Deg C over a day. Does
anybody have any cheap alternatives to using a fridge?
Paul Murray
Pmurray@lingua.cltr.uq.oz
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1431, 05/24/94
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