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HOMEBREW Digest #1336
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 94/01/28 00:48:42
HOMEBREW Digest #1336 Fri 28 January 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Beer Bread (Derrick Pohl)
Beers by Brekenridge Brewery... (Corby Bacco)
Don't use radiators as chillers (JEBURNS)
tshirts/compressors/that awful wit (garyrich)
rye malt - sticky! (Tom Lyons)
Celis White ("Bill Knecht")
How long to prime??? (Domenick Venezia)
COMPRESSOR AERATION (708) 938-3184" <HANSEN.MICHAEL@igate.abbott.com>
hops in primary/rack off trub? (Peter Maxwell)
RE: FALSTAFF (LLDSC)
Re: Celis White comments (jerryb7595)
Chicago Area Brewers (Cathy Cullen (N3311))
High or Buzz Beers (rsharris)
Freezing yeast/backlog ("Rex K. Perkins")
quick wedding mead ("Malcolm Tobias")
Fridge Controllers (Bob_McIlvaine)
RE: Oktoberfest trip and Munich Brewery Tours (Bob Kosakowski)
Kinderbier (Mark Childers x313)
brown malt (Randall Bowen)
yyes (NALL9905)
Re: Question on flavor (Celis White) (Bob Guerin)
yeast culturing ("John L. Isenhour")
Metallurgy has Two L's!; Keg Cracks ("Palmer.John")
Specific gravity computation (Thomas K. Schonhoff)
Is this for real? (KRUSE_NEIL)
Zymurgy Info (DAVE1683)
Used equipment prices (Joel Birkeland)
Igloo coolers (dan_fox)
Re: Those Yeast Names (Jeff Frane)
Brewferm and boiling (snystrom)
High O.G. culturing (Jim Grady)
Coors SpringBock??? (Aaron Birenboim)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 1994 12:07:38 -0800
From: pohl@unixg.ubc.ca (Derrick Pohl)
Subject: Beer Bread
>From: Zach Fresco <zfresco@helen.bush.edu>
>Subject: Beer Bread
>
>Does anyone have a good recipy fore beer bread? Ive had it from a kit
>and its very good.
I've been thinking about posting this for a while, and now that it's been
asked for, why not? My partner's father swears by this recipe, and says
it's especially good toasted. In his own words:
"I have been making beer bread though...
using an 1812 recipe from old Fort Henry...3 cups of flat home brew at room
temp...in a bowl bring to room temp. and add a pack of yeast [bread yeast
presumably - ed.]..let it work for a while (5-10min)..dump in 8-9 cups
of whole wheat flour and a shot of salt...dump out on to a floured surface
and punch for 3 or 4 min...this is the only tricky bit, it is often too
sticky..never mind..add bits of flour until it is workable...leave it after
the punching for 10 min...cut in two and stick into two greased pans..
cover and let rise in a warm spot for 45 min...stick in a pre-heated oven
..500 turned down to 375 and bake for 50 min. (or until done?)..remove
from oven..remove from pan..cut a slice..smear on a thin layer of peanut
butter..then a slice of cheese of your choice..then some pepper..then
a dash of your most potent hot sauce...sardines of course, with or without
the peanut-butter go without saying....then sit back and devour
ambrosia!...those Red-Coats knew how to make no-fuss bread...I live on this
stuff"
- -----
Derrick Pohl <pohl@unixg.ubc.ca>, Faculty of Graduate Studies
University of British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 94 13:08:08 MST
From: bacco@md.fsl.noaa.gov (Corby Bacco)
Subject: Beers by Brekenridge Brewery...
In HBD #1334 Mark Brunster asked about beers from
Brekenridge brewery.
I've tried their oatmeal stout, their IPA, their amber ale,
and their wheat beer. I was unimpressed with all of the last three
beers. However, I like the oatmeal stout and would reccomend trying
it, tastey (IMHO). Oh, their X-mas ale was o.k. too, nice bottles
(33 oz swing tops), bit pricey(~$10.00).
Cheers,
Corby (in Boulder, bacco@md.fsl.noaa.gov)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 94 15:17:47 EST
From: JEBURNS@ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: Don't use radiators as chillers
Just a quick post. DON'T use a radiator or heater core for anything
that comes in contact with your beer. Most of them use lead based
solders.
Dave.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 94 12:56:36 PST
From: garyrich@angel.qdeck.com
Subject: tshirts/compressors/that awful wit
>From: Mark_Worwetz@Novell.COM (Mark Worwetz)
>Subject: Sam Adams T-shirt offer
>
>A few months ago I received a Sam Adams(tm, of course) propaganda leaflet
>that contained an irresistable FREE T-SHIRT offer. Being a collector of
>such drivel I filled it out and mailed it away. I've since heard nothing
>from them. Has anyone else seen this offer? Has anyone received anything?
I got my t-shirt in mid december, which was almost 4 months after I
returned the leaflet thingie. They've also put me on their junk mail list.
Just goes to show you that nothing is free.
>From: "Michael D. Hansen (708) 938-3184" <HANSEN.MICHAEL@igate.abbott.com>
>Subject: WORT AERATION
>
>Short, simple question: Has anyone ever used a small air compressor (the type
>that drives an airbrush, for example) to aerate their wort?
I use my son's ventilator for his asthma medicine. It's almost the same
thing except mine has a filter. It does a fine job. There might be some
oil fumes from yours though. I'd use it to blow up a balloon and inhale
the balloon's air. If you don't gag, it should work just as well as mine.
>From: "Paul Austin" <huckfinn@vnet.IBM.COM>
>Why did the first few bottles almost explode and have GREAT heads
>but subsequent openings have no fizz? The stuff tastes great, but
>I want some head!
I've had this problem caused by uneven priming when I was being too
concerned about stirring it up in the bottling bucket and causing
oxidation. In my experience you can't rely on the swirling caused
by siphoning into the bottling bucket to stir it up well enough,
though some people get by with this. your mileage may vary.
>
>From: Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu
>
>You should mix VERY GENTLY. Here's what I do: I boil up a cup or so
>of water with the priming sugar. Then, after I've siphoned a bit of
>beer into the bottling container, I gently pour in the sugar solution, and
>continue siphoning. I figure the currents from siphoning mix in the
>priming solution pretty well.
Seems to work for Spencer, but it does not for me. I say stir!
>From: "Bill Knecht" <knecht@mind.psych.umn.edu>
>Subject: Question on flavor
>
> I recently tasted a beer by the Celis Brewery, Austin TX (pron'd
>"See-liss") called Celis White. The brew was very very pale, and the name
>apparently comes from an uncorrected chill haze.
> My question is this: this beer has a piquant, fruity aroma, and
>what seems to me a very acidic, fruity bite to it. Could anyone comment
>on what this taste might be? I find it quite disturbing and unpleasant,
>and would like to know what it is so that I could avoid it.
Geez, I wish I'd been there to take it away from you. Celis' beers are
the best beers made in the USA (IMHO and all that). The white is a "holy
grail" for a lot of us homebrewers. If you disliked the White, you will
probably absolutely detest the Grand Cru. I hereby claim Bill's share of the
world's Celis beers B-).
The white is a Belgian Wit beer. It's made with ~45% unmalted wheat (hence
the cloudiness) and is spiced with bitter orange peel and coriander. Any
of those things could be what you don't like, but more likely it's the fact
that it's fermented partially by lactobacillus that offended you. That's what
causes the tartness.
Gary Rich | Quarterdeck Office Systems, Santa Monica CA
garyrich@qdeck.com
Doth it not show vilely in me to desire small beer?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 1994 13:14:28 -0800 (PST)
From: tlyons@netcom.com (Tom Lyons)
Subject: rye malt - sticky!
c-amb@math.utah.edu writes:
My recipie will be based on the following ratio's:
50 - 60% rye malt
You will end up with the mother of all stuck runoffs, I'm
afraid! My (one) experience with rye malt (and listening
to the experience of others) indicates that rye malt in
that quantity will turn into a mass of goo in the bottom
of your mashtun. My tun (which normally has excellent
sparging performance) shut down like a clogged drain with
an attitude when I used a grist containing 40% rye malt.
I would like to hear about your experience with rye. Good
luck!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 94 16:25:55 CST
From: "Bill Knecht" <knecht@mind.psych.umn.edu>
Subject: Celis White
Many thanks to all of you who educated me on the taste of Celis
White! Here is a brief summary of what you've taught me:
1. The pronunciation is probably not "See-liss", but more
like "Sell-iss" or "Sellees" (or perhaps a French "Seh-lee").
2. The style is Hoogarten Witbier (Belgian white beer).
3. The fruity aroma and taste are the result of:
a. Unmalted wheat.
b. Curacao orange peel.
c. Coriander seed.
d. Lactic acid (introduced either by a deliberate
infection of lactobacillis or the addition of
lactic acid).
4. The white color is probably due to:
a. Orange oil, which becomes less soluble as the
temperature decreases.
b. Wheat cloudiness.
So I now know why that batch of my friend's beer tasted so bad.
He also had a lactobacillis infection. The difference is that his was
unwanted and uncontrolled. Hmmm. Same idea behind sauerkraut and
kimchee. The key is control.
Two folks sent in recipes (thanks to Tom and Jim), for the
benefit of all of you who like this style.
- ---------------------------- #1 ----------------------------
From: tony.storz@cld9.com (Tony Storz)
Subject: Celis White Clone Recipe [HBD #1310]
Recently there was a request for a Celis White Clone recipe. Here is a
recipe that I came up with and uploaded to Compuserve in early November.
Thanks to Steve Daniel and Steve Moore from the Home Brew University
BBS (713-923-6418) and my electronic friends on Compuserve who helped
steer me in the right direction by giving me a starting point.
Pugsley's Pseudo Celis White #5
malt: 4.5 lbs. 6 row (or 2 row)
specialty: 4.0 lbs. Unmalted Wheat (Bulgar from Health Food Store)
4 grams dried orange peel
4 grams crushed corriander seeds
1 tsp. Alpha-Amalase enzyme
lactic acid
hops: 1 oz. Hallertauer
yeast: 1 pack Wyeast #3056 Bavarian Wheat
optional: 1 tsp. gypsum
OG 1.041 FG 1.011
Bring 2 gallons water to boil. Add unmalted wheat and hold at 185-195
degrees for 20 minutes. Add cold water and 6 row malt to bring down to
130 degrees. Add 1 tsp. amalase and gypsum (pH 5.3). Allow protein
rest for 25 minutes. Raise temperature to 150 degrees and hold 20
minutes. Complete conversion by raising temperature to 158 degrees and
holding for 20 minutes. Mashout at 168 degrees for 5 minutes. Acidify
sparge water to pH 5.7 with lactic acid. Sparge with 4-5 gallons of
170-180 degree water. Boil wort for 90 minutes. Add hops and crushed
spices 15 minutes before end of boil. Cool wort and pitch yeast.
While this will not fool everyone into thinking that this is the real Celis
White, I was very happy with the outcome. The spices are "up front"
without being overpowering. However, some people like a wallop from the
spices and you will need to experiment with the spice amounts.
After a couple months the spices have faded a bit, so next time I will
double the spices and probably try Wyeast White beer yeast.
This recipe should give you a good starting point with which to
experiment. If anyone else has a recipe for a Celis White clone, or have
any comments or questions on my recipe, please feel free to E-mail me or
post.
- ---------------------------- #2 ----------------------------
The Elusive Wit
5# 2-row
5# wheat malt
1 oz Hallertau, 3.2% AAU, 60 minues
.5 oz Hallertau, 3.2% AAU, 30 minutes
1 oz Saaz, 4.0 %AAU, 20 minutes
1 quart Brewer's Resource Belgian Wit ale yeast starter
3/4 cup corn sugar for priming
1/2 tsp orange peel, added to secondary
1 tsp crushed coriander, added to secondary
OG = 1.048
FG = 1.016
As you can see, this recipe calls for 50 % wheat malt. I've also
seen recipes which call for 45% un-malted wheat. The wheat or wheat
malt are what give's the beer it's milky appearance or
"uncorrected chill haze." The coriander and the orange peel
make for a very interesting flavor profile. There's also a third
spice, but PC is not willing to divulge it.
The above recipe did very well in the Minnesota Brewfest (300 entrees).
It won first place in the Belgian category (30 entrees), (Judged by John
Isenhauer) and then went on to take Best of Show (Judged by
Michael Jackson, Andy Leith and Isenhauer).
--------- and there ya have it!------------
.....................................................................
.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.
. William Knecht .
. ...and now for your randomly-selected quotation... .
.....................................................................
"In Hollywood a marriage is a success if it outlasts milk."
Rita Rudner
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 1994 14:41:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia@ZGI.COM>
Subject: How long to prime???
I've posted this idea before but Spencer Thomas' post in #1334 and the
recent flood of new HBD participants got me thinking it was worth posting
again.
Prior to transfering wort, whether into secondary or bottling carboy,
a small piece of dry ice in the empty carboy will fill it with CO2 and
prevent any oxidation from agitation.
Domenick Venezia
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia@zgi.com
------------------------------
Date: 26 Jan 1994 16:54:00 -0600 (CST)
From: "Michael D. Hansen (708) 938-3184" <HANSEN.MICHAEL@igate.abbott.com>
Subject: COMPRESSOR AERATION
Hi All!
I recently posted an inquiry about using a compressor to aerate wort. Based on
private response I've gotten, I need to clarify the type of compressor. It is a
small medical compressor used to inhale asthma medication. It produces
breathable air that is somewhat filtered. Can I still use it to aerate wort?
TIA and brew on my friends,
Mike (HANSENMD@RANDB.ABBOTT.COM)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 1994 16:12:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Peter Maxwell <peterm@aoraki.dtc.hp.com>
Subject: hops in primary/rack off trub?
Could anyone please give me the answers to the following two questions:
(a) if I rack into a secondary within a week of putting the wort into the
primary, does it make any difference if I try to leave the trub/hot/cold
breaks behind in the boiler or simply dump it all in?
(b) does putting all the boil and finish hops (particularly the latter) into
the primary make any difference to bitterness/aroma/taste?
Both these questions relate to my uncertainty as to whether it's worth all
the extra time to try to separate the wort from the "nasties" after
boiling.
Peter
------------------------------
Date: Wednesday, 26 January 94 18:30:20 CST
From: LLDSC@utxdp.dp.utexas.edu
Subject: RE: FALSTAFF
In HBD#1334, Ulick Stafford writes about being able to tell Falstaff
beer from the riddles in the caps.
Interesting. Down here in the Lone Star State they brew a little lager
by the name of Pearl (from the country of 1000 springs).
Pearl also has the little puzzles in the caps. (the technical term is
rebus). Some of them are really hard. We eventually wound up writing to
the brewery and they sent us an answer sheet.
How about those Falstaff puzzles? (rebusi?) Are they tough?
Comin' at you from the land of 1000 springs,
Scott Calonico lldsc@utxdp.dp.utexas.edu
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 94 19:57:14 EST
From: jerryb7595@aol.com
Subject: Re: Celis White comments
Re: Bill Knecht hates Celis White
Wow, Bill, sounds like a bad experience. I loved the stuff. But, if you're
looking to avoid doing this with your own homebrew, you might take the
following advice.
Do NOT make a beer that contains some 2-row malt, some 6-row malt, some
unmalted wheat (causes the "uncorrected chill haze"), some coriander, some
orange peel (maybe the "acidic, fruity bite" you tasted), a smattering of
hops. Also do not use Wyeast's new White Beer yeast (number escapes me).
You should be able to avoid this flavor profile altogether if you don't do
those things.
On a more serious side, you make it sound as though the beer is seriously
defective. Without taking into consideration any possible storage disaster
on the part of the watering hole you frequent, I think it may be just a style
you just don't like, which is why there's lots of styles of beers. The Celis
White won a gold in the GABF this year. Being a big Belgian beer fan, and
having tried Celis White not too long ago, I gotta agree with the GABF.
The haze isn't a classic "chill haze". For want of a better term, I'd call
it a "wheat haze". Wheat beers tend to be on the cloudy side. The fruity
taste is a function of the unmalted wheat, the spice, and the, well, fruit.
The yeast plays a part there, too. I have heard some people say there is a
little "Lacto action" going on that would contribute some sourness, but I
don't know for sure.
Anyway, if anyone sends you some Celis White for Christmas, now you know who
will take it off your hands.
Jerry Brown (jerryb7595@aol.com)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 94 16:33:52 CST
From: cullen@zeus1.issc.com (Cathy Cullen (N3311))
Subject: Chicago Area Brewers
People in the Chicago area might want to take a look at the
feature article in this weeks Reader on homebrewing.
It's pretty interesting and exciting.
Oh and while I've got your attention, I am pretty dismayed by the
fact that there are no homebrew supply stores in Chicago besides
Brewin Beer, which hardly qualifies. I am seriously considering
opening up a homebrew supply store in the Southport/Belmont area.
I've been waiting for AGS to open a store in the city for over a
year now and have given up. My aim in doing this is to offer a wide
variety of options to brewers with an emphasis on Quality and Freshness.
I am interested in what it is that brewers look for in homebrew
supplies, and am especially interested in what brewers in Chicago feel
is needed here. I am also interested in feedback from others who may
be doing this, or have done this in the past. The biggest dilemna I have
is that I am quite happy doing software development and it pays the
rent. I'm not sure if running a retail business will pay the rent.
Thanks in Advance,
Cathy Cullen
cullen@zeus1.issc.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 94 23:24:21 CST
From: rsharris@students.wisc.edu
Subject: High or Buzz Beers
I have heard a few people talk about using cannabis in place of finishing
hops. And also that either the flavor or the effect could be achieved,
depending on methods used. Does anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for any replies.
------------------------------
Date: 26 Jan 94 23:24:43 EST
From: "Rex K. Perkins" <70651.1611@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Freezing yeast/backlog
Greetings,
I'm about to put together a frozen yeast bank as a backup for my
refrigerated slants and would appreciate some advice. Based on what I have
read here over the last 6 months, I was thinking of using a wort of DME,
yeast nutrient, sucrose and glycerin. My questions are:
1) Does glycerin need to be sterilized, or is it like, say alcohol and
kills the nastiness all by itself? If it needs to be sterilized, how do
you do it? Being rather chemically naive, I decided to make up a 15%
(aprox) glycerin/water mixture and boil it to find out if the glycerin
would boil off. My suspicions were rather violently confirmed when the
mixture, instead of boiling, exploded and shot itself out of the test tube
and across the room.
So, obviously, I can't just add the glycerin to the wort in the culture
tube and boil that in water (don't have a pressure cooker).
2) Is glycerin toxic? The bottle I got from the pharmacy (sold as a skin
treatment) had a 'do not drink' type warning on it. I was under the
impression that it was a powerful laxative, but not toxic.
3) When the wort is inoculated, should that be left at room temperature
for a day or two, like a slant, before freezing, frozen immediately or
left for some longer period?
I have seen several references to an article on freezing yeast in the
yeast special issue of Zymurgy and have what is sold as the back issue of
that magazine, but can find no such article. Are there more than one yeast
special issue, has the article been pulled from any reprints or am I just
blind?
RE: HBD backlog. I agree with Lee Menegoni's comment in HBD1328 about
excessive quoting. Those of us that pay to receive this digest find this
particularly annoying. All that is needed are a few lines to establish the
context.
Cheers,
Rex K. Perkins. Bolton MA. 70651.1611@compuserve.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 1994 07:52:52 -0600
From: "Malcolm Tobias" <mtobias@wurel.wustl.edu>
Subject: quick wedding mead
A friend of mine is getting married in eight months, and would like to have some
mead ready for the wedding. Any suggestions for a recipie that would be ready
in that time? I seem to recall a thread a while back on mead/extract mixtures,
how have those turned out? Do they take take a considerabley shorter time
to get ready?
email responses would be fine,
thanks,
Malcolm Tobias
mtobias@wurel.wustl.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 08:53:08 EST
From: Bob_McIlvaine@keyfile.com
Subject: Fridge Controllers
You can get a very simple fridge controller from
JB Distributing 603-465-7633. It's a kit containing
documentation and a circuit board. You supply
a hand full of parts and your soldering iron. It's
about $10.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 9:22:28 EST
From: Bob Kosakowski <bkos@hpwarf.wal.hp.com>
Subject: RE: Oktoberfest trip and Munich Brewery Tours
I'm sorry to waste the bandwidth with this message, I was planning
only to handle any interest in the munich brewery tours off-line.
HOWEVER, In defense of a recent accusation by DON BISZEK of irregularities
or of diverting of funds etc. Maybe Mr. Biszek should have gotten his
facts before such accusations were made. I have also been able to
travel alone or with one other person for much less (I love to stay at guest
houses) than the total cost of the brewery tour trip... Have you tried
squeezing 30+ people into a guest house during Oktoberfest...
I simply trying to clear up some misconceptions that may have been raised.
Call you local travel agent to check a comparable trip. Odds are you'd find
it not including what is below, and costing more. If not, let me know and
I'll relay that info to the appropriate people. I don't think you will much
better though.
Here is what was on the list for last year. I didn't go last year because
of changing jobs. If you have questions/concerns call me or, if you prefer,
call me and I'll give you the number of the travel agent doing all the
arrangements for this years trip.
INCLUDED:
RT Airfare Boston-Munich-Boston
Hotel
transportation to/from Hotel-Airport
all transfers, taxes, portage (1 bag), tips for whole trip.
breakfast every day
1 farewell dinner
A local multi-lingual Professional Tour Director for duration
Local tour guides at several sights
A trip to Fussen and Neuschwanstein castle
(Option of trip to Salzburg instead)
Transportation/admission included.
Munich city tour with local tour director(above)
Reserved seats at an Oktoberfest Tent
Transportation to/from hotel to all events
Brewery/Beer Hall Tours:
Forshungsbraurei
Lowenbrau Keller
Weihenstephan
Hofbrauhaus
Salvator Keller
The prices on my price sheet for last year are as follows:
20-39 people cost:
US$ 1965 pp Dbl
US$ 2315 pp Sngl
40+ people cost:
US$ 1690 pp Dbl
US$ 2040 pp Sngl
- --
In reference to:
>> Well current costs to Munich are about $700 rt, and I stayed in a
>> lovely B+B near the Science Museum for $60/night for a double. That comes
>> to $1000 for 10 days in Munich, not including food and beer.
I can believe that, but your not likely to get $60/night during
Oktoberfest or at least not at a place that will house 30+ people
during Oktoberfest.
I always use the subway in Munich, it is cheap and efficient, but
carting 30+ people from place to place on subway (some who prefer
not to travel that way) is difficult at best. So we get a motorcoach
with guide for the trips to the breweries/beer halls.
The cost also includes everything in the trip to the Castle, etc.
And the Farewell dinner/feast.
...
>> The extra $1000 must be going somewhere, because this is not a good
>> deal.
As I said, this can be taken in a very wrong and severely libellous
way. However, I am not one to take offense easily (I play goalie,
I'm more used to defense ;-)
I think this is a very good deal considering what we are working with.
Feel free to investigate it further for yourself and you decide.
Remember though, less than 5 people and you can be far more flexible.
Work with numbers over 20 and compare...
Sorry for the bandwidth waste here, just defending myself after what I saw as
a potentially damaging accusation.
Tag,
Bob Kos
______________________________
| |
| Robert K. Kosakowski |
| Software Design Engineer |
| bkos@hpwarf.wal.hp.com |
| |
| Phone: (508) 659 - 4808 |
| FAX: (508) 686 - 1258 |
|______________________________|
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 08:34:56 -0600
From: markc@ssd.fsi.com (Mark Childers x313)
Subject: Kinderbier
Anyone out there have a recipe for a German Product marketed under the
name of "Kara-Malz" or "Vita-Malz"? TIA.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 9:47:16 PST
From: rlbowen@miata.edaco.ingr.com (Randall Bowen)
Subject: brown malt
Hello All,
I was perusing my back issues of HBD and came across a recipe
formulation for a porter taken from the Durben(sp?) Park club recipe
book that they recently published. As I am getting ready to brew my
first porter, this really caught my eye as opposed to the first time I
read it. My apologies to the original poster recommending the recipe (I
didn't make note of your name before deleting that HBD issue).
Anyway, here is the all grain formulation from said HBD:
81 % pale malt
14 % brown malt
5 % black patent malt
My question concerns the "brown malt". What does this term refer to?
Crystal malt of a specific Lovibond or chocolate malt?
Thanks, Randall rlbowen@ingr.com
_________________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 11:51:16 EST
From: NALL9905@URIACC.URI.EDU
Subject: yyes
testing 123
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 1994 08:57:24 -0800
From: bguerin@orincon.com (Bob Guerin)
Subject: Re: Question on flavor (Celis White)
The Celis Brewery is run by Pierre Celis, who formerly owned the De
Kluis Brewery in Belgium, maker of Hoegaarden White. Presumably, Celis
White is styled after this beer (I have tasted Celis Grand Cru, but not the
White). According to Michael Jackson, Hoegaarden White is made from 45%
unmalted wheat, 5% unmalted oats, and 50% malted barley. These
ingredients, along with the slowly flocculating yeast used for bottle
conditioning, produce the "white" cloudiness characteristic of the Witbier
style. The beer is also flavored with coriander and curacao, both of which
were commonly used before hops came into vogue. The acidic/sour nature of
this and other Belgian beers derives in part from the unique strains of
yeast used. Belgian beers are definitely an acquired taste.
Bob Guerin
(bguerin@orincon.com)
Orincon Corporation
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 1994 11:16:40 CST
From: "John L. Isenhour" <isenhour@lambic.fnal.gov>
Subject: yeast culturing
SLK6P@cc.usu.edu is concerned about liquid storage of yeast:
I said:
>> You really have to seal petri dishes well (I use parafilm)
>* I would question relying solely on liquid cultures. One major advantage
>of the use of plates is that you can SEE single colonies. Even with slants
>you are able to get an idea if there is significant/obvious contamination.
I didnt say to use liquid only, I just prefer it. I really doubt that with
typical streaking done in the home that you would steak down to the point where
you could be certain that there was only one cell per growth node.
Especially in the summer, even in a hood, you will occasionally get airborn
stuff landing on a section of exposed agar (or landing on the yeast) and get
contamination. As explained in my article on sterile transfer techniques in
the Zymurgy yeast issue, you can avoid potential contamination problems by
using liquid.
>Additionally, it is my belief that slants/plates can last longer as a
>stable culture than a liquid culture.
Plates that undergo temperature changes are going to respire and possibly suck
in contamination. I keep liquid yeast stored @ 28 degrees F in surplus
vacutainers (test tubes with septa stoppers so you can add and remove yeast
and maintain sterility), as well as other vessels with hypodermic septa
attached. These cultures last for months between restarting. Adding glycerine
to the liquid will allow you to further reduce the temperature and increase
storage life. Being under liquid at low temps reduces exposure to O2. Many of
my microbiologist aquaintances store liquid yeast in this mannor just like they
do in their labs.
>Due mainly to the fact that the
>medium is solid, therefore nutrients will diffuse to the culture in a
>slower fashion
I am not aware of nutrients diffusing thru chilled agar at any appreciable rate
(I would welcome any citations), most organisms try to grow across agar to get
to nutrients. The so called unfermentables can be utilized, at much slower
rate.
When liquid yeast media is added to fresh sterile liquid starter and the
temperature is reduced, I've found that they do not tend to exhaust the media
before I utilize the sample.
>In micro labs most cultures are STORED on slants, plates, or frozen for
>longer term storage. It is rare to store a culture in a liquid medium.
I have never seen a petrie dish used to store yeast in a freezer. I know of a
lot of cell types grown and stored in liquid, esp if that is their natural
environment.
>Also: for the average home rancher use of an inoculating loop and flame
>are more readily available than sterilized pipets for liquid transfers.
I usually use syringes, to assure sterility for the critical stages (small
amount of yeasts), but I purchased a box of glass disposable Pasteur Pipettes
over 6 years ago and I'm still re-using them. If you are going to do culture
work, you really should have a pressure cooker. The tranfer instruments can be
sterilized with this. I have autoclaving trays, but aluminum foil will work
nicely for wrapping the tools. The biggest hassle for me as a cultivater was
to construct a glove box, and buying a high end pressure cooker - suplus places
abound with the rest of the toys.
>I do re-use dregs, and will store them in flasks for a week or so, but
>prefer to work from my pure cultures, on plates and slants in the fridge,
>and feel I've had less contamination problems with this approach than
>from use/storage of liquid forms of cultures.
If your experince with liquid was from dregs, then I can understand your
concerns. I will immediatly recycle yeast on occasion, but for pure culturing
liquids I've always (traded or) purchased a starter - I dont want the yeast
supply guys going outta business, but I so like to get at least 10 ferments out
of a purchased culture.
I've been using predominantly liquid for many years and I've never had any
contamination problems (gee, now why did I just jinx myself!). I use slants
for mailing/trading yeasts around. If done with care, I'm sure that either
method will suffice. I've just found liquid to be better for me.
A small explanation might help:
I take canning lids and drill a syringe septa hole in it, another hole holds a
grommet for my glass autoclavable airlock. The whole thing goes into the
pressure cooker with starter liquid. In the glove box, a sterilized syringe
draws the original starter out of the yeast pack and (with liberal use of
peroxide) is injected into the sterile starter in the canning jar thru the
septa. I innoculate a variety of liquid cultures this way (via septa) for
storage. When the quart mason jar has near fermented out, I take a gallon jug
with glass airlock that has been autoclaved with starter solution, and in the
glove box, I pour the yeast dregs into the gallon jar (slosh more peroxide
here). This is the starter for a 5 gallon batch.
This might seem a little extreme, but in certain parts of the Ohio Valley in
the summer, the "blue green" blight will attack any open agar with discusting
regularity.
If lambic brewsters can 'store' their cultures in wooden barrels, and even
out in the feilds - I guess anything will work :-)
-john
------------------------------
Date: 27 Jan 1994 09:10:37 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Metallurgy has Two L's!; Keg Cracks
It's a metallurgist's pet peeve, like pronouncing molybdenum, "molly-bed-nium"
Argh!
Anyway, In response to Ed's Query (small pun), on what is causing his
brewshop guys SS keg/boiler to develop cracks, I think I know the answer.
These 300 series alloy stainless steels are prone to the phenomenon of
"Sensitization" which is a high temperature related diffusion of the
chromium atoms away from the grain boundaries to form carbides. This causes
local corrosion and grain boundary attack which leads to intergrannular
cracking. It is a common problem when welding stainless steels; you may
recall my post last year about welding of stainless.
If the cracking occuring at the flame zone of the burner is jagged/zig zag,
then it is intergrannular and most likely caused by Sensitization, caused
by the high heat being input to the keg in that small area.
His proposed solution to the problem (1/4 inch steel plate over the flame)
may do the trick. If his keg had a flat bottom I would say to rest it on
an aluminum plate to get the most uniform heat transfer. Since most of
these kegs have rounded bottoms, I would think a "diffuser" plate like
above is the next best thing. This does point out that you can have too
much heat on your boiler.
Finally, the only cure is an entire Solutionizing Heat Treatment of the
whole thing at 2000F for several minutes followed rapid cooling. Since this
needs to be done in a furnace with a protective atomosphere, I think his
keg is probably history. Once these steels are Sensitized, the cracking
will only get worse.
John Palmer Space Station Materials and Processes palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 1994 09:22:16 -0800
From: thomask@cs.washington.edu (Thomas K. Schonhoff)
Subject: Specific gravity computation
After who-knows-how-many batches I've suddenly realized that my
SG readings have always been bogus for the OG of the batch!!!
Not, as you might suspect, due to temperature variations (I use
the conversion chart supplied with the hydrometer) but rather
because of VOLUME. I generally end up topping off my secondary
with water once I move the beer from the primary since it's so
hard to boil down to precisely the right 5 gallon measurement
(especially using 135K BTUs of fiery hell provided by my cooker).
It seems that most of us two-stage fermenters probably boil
anywhere from 4.5 to 5 gallons and probably err on the low side
just to be safe when we go to the carboy. THis is an error of
far too many SG points for my taste.
What obvious fact have I overlooked, or how do you deal with it?
------------------------------
Date: 27 Jan 94 09:03:00 -0800
From: KRUSE_NEIL@Tandem.COM
Subject: Is this for real?
- ------------ TEXT ATTACHMENT --------
SENT 01-27-94 FROM KRUSE_NEIL
The following was forwarded to me by a friend. I don't know if this is
a joke or not. Either way, it is a funny story.
Neil
TOKYO (AP) -- Here in the chic pubs of the Aoyama district, the latest
fad inspired by beer makers struggling through a sluggish economy is the
flammable suds of the new Hydrogen Beer. The latest craze among the
environmentally conscious crowd of twentysomethings, the "Suiso" beer
made by the Asaka Beer Corporation has been extremely popular at karaoke
sing-along bars and discotheques.
Hydrogen, like helium, is a gas lighter than air. Because hydrogen
molecules are lighter than air, sound waves are transmitted more rapidly;
individuals whose lungs are filled with the nontoxic gas can speak with
an uncharacteristically high voice.
Exploiting this quirk of physics, chic urbanites can now sing soprano
parts on karaoke sing-along machines after consuming a big gulp of Suiso
beer.
The drink comes in a transparent hexagonal bottle imported from the maker
of the new American drink "Zima," according to Hideki Saito, marketing
director of Asaka Beer Corp. While the bottles are imported from
Tennessee, the labels are made with a 100% biodegradable polymer. The
bottle caps are equipped with a safety valve to prevent excess build-up of
pressure in high temperatures.
The flammable nature of hydrogen has also become another selling point,
even though Asaka has not acknowledged that this was a deliberate
marketing ploy. It has inspired a new fashion of blowing flames from
one's mouth using a cigarette as an ignition source. Many new karaoke
videos feature singers shooting blue flames in slow motion, while flame
contests took place in pubs everywhere in Tokyo on New Year's eve.
So far, Asaka beer has insisted that the quantities of hydrogen used in
the drinks is too low to create potential for bodily harm. In the
factory, the carbon dioxide that is dissolved in the beer is partially
extracted and replaced with hydrogen gas. Mr. Saito maintained that the
remaining carbon dioxide mixed with hydrogen prevents the rate of
combustion from increasing dramatically. Carbon dioxide is a
nonflammable gas that is naturally contained in the exhaled breath of
humans.
However, the company has hesitated from marketing the product in the US
due to legal complications.
Each bottle of Suiso beer sells for approximately 1,200 yen, or eleven US
dollars. The bottles are packed in special crates lined with concrete to
prevent chain explosions in the event of a fire.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 1994 20:32:47 -0500 (EST)
From: DAVE1683@delphi.com
Subject: Zymurgy Info
I am looking for an address or phone number in order to subscribe to
Zymurgy. Can someone please help?
Thanks...dave
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 11:05:22 MST
From: birkelan@adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland)
Subject: Used equipment prices
People frequently want to know if they are paying too much for their
homebrewing equipment. I have recently purchased a bunch of used
brewing equipment and related paraphernalia and I thought I would share
what I paid for it. All of the items were purchased at Phoenix AZ Park
and Swap:
10 Gallon SS pot, heavy gauge $38
(no handles or lid)
dual-gauge Taprite CO2 regulator $10
20 lb Detecto spring balance $8
5 lb CO2 tank with valve $15
5 gallon ball-lock keg $5
Ohaus Harvard Trip Balance $25
Also, I saw the following, which I did not purchase:
Ohaus Triple beam balance $10
(missing two sliders)
5 gal cheapie SS pots $19
(new, made in Thailand, incl lid)
Ancient 5 gal. glass carboys $7 ea
I just wanted to let people know that if they are patient, and keep
their eyes open, they can get their brewing equipment for a lot
less than they might think.
Joel
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 13:34:17 EST
From: dan_fox@ccmail.GSFC.NASA.GOV
Subject: Igloo coolers
OK, I'll bite (or kick off the discussion). Of what possible use to a
homebrewer is a large plastic picnic cooler full of grain? Is there
instructions about this in a FAQ? I've just been using steel pots and
such. I have seen much mention of the practice here.
Forgive the emperor's clothes type questions; I'm the eternal newbie.
Dan Fox - "In cyberspace, no-one can hear you DOHHHHHH!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 1994 10:58:54 -0800 (PST)
From: gummitch@teleport.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: Re: Those Yeast Names
Norm Pyle wrote:
(after Jim Busch wrote:)
>
> >Yeast: Wyeast London, Youngs, Fullers cultures.
>
> Why the London? This is not a flame, I'm just curious. London is famous for
> its porters, whereas the good bitters are from Burton-on-Trent and scattered
> parts, no? I would assume that the British ale yeast would be best for
> bitters (and best bitters). Of course, this is assuming that Wyeast's naming
> scheme is something more than random choice of names (bad assumption?).
> Ulick writes later in the same HBD: "(but then Wyeast names often have no
> relation to the source). Hmmmm....
>
Although London is famous for its porters (among beer aficionados,
anyway), it's only famous in an historical sense; same goes for Burton
and bitters. There are two very good, large breweries in London
(Fullers and Young's) and they are known for their bitters, primarily.
(Remember Fuller's ESB? Young's Special London Ale?) So: Wyeast London.
Apropos of which, a rave! for that yeast strain. I've just bottled a
bitter I used it for, and have a strong ale fermenting with it now.
Vigorous, excellent floculator, and (humility isn't my strong point!)
the beers are excellent. I believe it can be considered much more stable
than 1056, and it is my new ale yeast of choice.
WYeast names often *do* have a relation to the source -- provided you
know the source.
- --Jeff
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 14:14:55 EST
From: snystrom@aol.com
Subject: Brewferm and boiling
I just finished by third batch of brew and purchased a Brewferm Wheat Beer
kit. Iwas surprised upon reading the instructions that no boiling was
suggested.
Is this safe, or am I taking a massive risk of contracting a nasty infection?
I know others who have complained about the Brewferm Framboise (raspberry)
kits, saying they smelled great during the boil but were greatly lacking in
raspberry flavor and aroma in the finished product.
Any tips or personal experience with these kits would be helpful.
Also, I purchased a packet of the Belgian white beer liquid yeast (3944?) and
was wondering what the temperature range is for this product.
Thanks in advance
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 14:26:09 EST
From: Jim Grady <grady@hpangrt.an.hp.com>
Subject: High O.G. culturing
Jim Busch writes in HBD #1335:
> No!!!!! Never , ever culture from a high gravity beer. The upper end "rule
> of thumb" is 1.060.
What is the reason for this rule? Is it because the yeast will tend to
become overattenuative? I brought some "Verboden Vrucht", brewed by
Hoegaarden, back from a business trip near there and was planning on
using the yeast from the bottom of the bottle.
Verboten Vrucht is 9% a.b.v. so I'm pretty sure the O.G. > 1.060! I
have no clue as to whether this is just a bottling strain or the
fermentation strain.
- --
Jim Grady
grady@hp-mpg.an.hp.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 12:57:53 MST
From: abirenbo@redwood.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Subject: Coors SpringBock???
As i sleepily aroze from slumber this morning I cought part
of a story on local TV news. Some journalist in his 50's was
giving a very sophomoric report on the beer industry in relationship
to a new coors specialty product. I believe he mentioned "Coors Spring bock".
Anybody know about this?
My HB club may be planning a trip to coors. perhaps we can find out
when we talk to their representatives.
Also... any comments on miller amber ale? miller velvet stout?
aaron
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1336, 01/28/94
*************************************
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