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HOMEBREW Digest #1300
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 93/12/17 00:26:16
HOMEBREW Digest #1300 Fri 17 December 1993
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
RE:RIMS & HSA (b_regent)
KETTLES (Jack Schmidling)
update (James Clark)
signing on to the list (Sean Barrett)
Clip art for beer labels (GONTAREK)
Champagne Bottles (FSAC-FCD) <dward@PICA.ARMY.MIL>
Questions (Timothy Sixberry)
Abita Turbo Dog (Chris Pencis)
Stein Lids Revealed / New Book on Hops (Timothy J. Dalton)
Bottle Inspection (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Hydrometers / Haze problems (cole)
accurate hydrometers (Dick Dunn)
Hops question (Robert Jordan)
Stainless Steel Welding ("Palmer.John")
Bubbles/time and Threaded neck carboys (U-E68316-Scott Wisler)
sign me up (Matthew Causey)
Flat Dinosaurs, BJCP,etc. (Marc Hugentobler)
bottle inspection (Russell Gelinas)
wyeast 1098/Whitbread (Russell Gelinas)
Making separate messages out of HBD (Tom Clifton)
early racking question (Jonathan G Knight)
All-grain equipment & Kegging (JEBURNS)
TUN DESIGN (Jack Schmidling)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1993 19:21:01 -0800
From: b_regent@holonet.net
Subject: RE:RIMS & HSA
In a recent HBD, Bob Getty asks about RIMS and HSA.
I've been using a RIMS for about 2 years now. While I can't definitely
attribute it to some oxidation problems I had, I did take steps to reduce HSA.
Originally, I used a setup similar to the one described, where wort is
returned to a plastic tray will holes in the bottom. The amount of foaming
that occured was quite impressive. Obviously, a lot of air was being
introduced to the hot wort.
About a year ago, I decided to build a return manifold, to alleviate any
HSA problems that I might have had. The manifold sits below the level of
liquid in the tun, so no air can be introduced. There is now absolutely no
foaming that occurs. I have not brewed a beer with any detectable oxidation
problems since installing the manifold. I dont know if I really had a problem
to begin with, but I definitely don't now.
I brew in a 54 quart igloo cooler. The manifold is made from 1/2"id. copper.
_ _
| |-------------------------------| |
| |-------------------------------| | Top view of copper manifold tubes.
| | wort/sparge inlet | |
| | | | | |
| |------------|-|----------------| |
| |-------------------------------| |
| | | |
| | | |
| |-------------------------------| |
|_|-------------------------------|_|
After mashing is complete, the wort return line is run into the kettle, and
the sparge liquor line is connected to the manifold inlet.
- --bob
b_regent@holonet.net
- ---
~ KingQWK 1.05 ~
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 93 23:39 CST
From: arf@mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: KETTLES
>From: trl@photos.wustl.edu (Tom Leith MIR/ERL 362-6965)
>IMNSHO, the *minimum* useful size for brewing a five gallon batch is a 32
quart pot (8 gallons). You can get an enamel 8 gallon canning pot for about
$35 (with lid). This is what I'm using. The geometry is poor for doing a 2
hour boil -- too much surface area for the volume.
The other side of the equation is that you can achieve a great deal of
evaporaton in a 2 hr boil, you just need to start with more sweet wort. The
bottom line is you can increase the yield by extracting more sugar from the
mash. You might also try using less heat if you have to keep the lid on.
>I would like to get a ten gallon stainless stock pot, but they cost about
$175 new.....
Not sure how to kill this bit of bum information but they are available from
several sources for around $100. Call 800 553 7906 for a catalog from one
such place.
js
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1993 21:51:37 -0500
From: jeclark@ucdavis.edu (James Clark)
Subject: update
just thought i'd let everyone know how our beer brewing is going and then
ask a quick question or two.
we made a second batch on saturday and it went a thousand times better than
our first. before brewing this time i measured off the capacity of our
carboy one gallon at a time and marked it with fingernail polish. (thanks
to whoever suggested this idea) in doing this i found that in our last
batch we had added about 3/4 of a gallon too much water. (go ahead and
laugh...i did)
the boil went almost perfectly and we cooled the wort to about 90F in less
than 15 minutes in an ice water bath.
the only problem we had was that we didn't have a scale to weigh out the
hops, so we had to guess on the amounts.
the o.g. was 58, but that included all the particles from the crystal malt
that immediately settled to the bottom.
the fermentation went very quickly. on sunday afternoon we were getting
about 3 bubbles a second out of a 1/4" i.d. tube, but on monday the kruesen
was almost gone and we were only getting about a bubble a minute out of the
tube.
so here are the questions:
1) why are wort chillers recomended? isn't an ice water bath almost as
effective?
2) do ales normally have that short of an optimal fermentation time (the
kreusen had settled after only about 36 hours)?
3) because of the high gravity boil the beer is not as bitter as i want it,
so i was thinking about dry hopping in a secondary. is there a recomended
time to do this or can i do it any time after the kreusen settles? also,
can someone give me a range for the amount of hops to use in the secondary
(i know i didn't say how bitter our beer is right now, but i just want to
know if most people use 0.5 oz. or 8 oz when they dry hop)?
sorry, my NCJoHB is at my friend's house and he is gone for a few days, so
i couldn't just look up the answers to these.
thanks y'all.
- --james
p.s. not that anynone cares, but i'm with lan and andrew on this AOL thing.
F*%@ sensorship!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1993 21:26:32 -1000 (HST)
From: Sean Barrett <barrett@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu>
Subject: signing on to the list
barrett@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1993 07:51:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: GONTAREK@JHUVMS.HCF.JHU.EDU
Subject: Clip art for beer labels
Greetings brewfolk! I have a quick question that I was hoping someone could
answer for me: Where (on the net) can I get clip art files that I could
incorporate into a graphics program that i use to make my beer labels?
I am using Canvas on the Mac for graphics, and would like to get my grubby
hands on some cool artwork (pictures, etc) to spice up my labels. I am
a biologist/homebrewer, not a computer wizard, so bear this in mind when
you respond. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Rick Gontarek
Gontarek@jhuvms.hcf.jhu.edu
Dept. of Biology
The Johns Hopkins University
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 8:38:34 EST
From: "Darren L. Ward" (FSAC-FCD) <dward@PICA.ARMY.MIL>
Subject: Champagne Bottles
I'm almost ready to bottle my Mead, anyone know which Champagne
bottles can be capped with a beer cap? I think this is the best way to go
with a batch that takes a year or so to condition.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 07:37:00 PST
From: Timothy Sixberry <tsixber@msrapid.kla.com>
Subject: Questions
Hi fellow homebrewers/ drinkers,
This is my first publication in the digest and I wish I were answering some
questions, but instead I must ask a few this time. I have been brewing for
about a year and a half and have done both all grain and extract brews. I
have had good luck with both and not to many problems. It seems to me
though, that every time I think I have it down, I read about some new
method or device that is supposed to make the beer come out better. It
seems to me that the basics of making good beer are very simple, things such
as sterility, accurate temps, good ingredients, a set of routine steps, and
patience. So my first question is. If the beer is comming out good, why
complicate matters? An expample of what I mean is the use of of oxygen and
a bubbler system to airate the wort prior to pitching. Is this really
nessasary? I just shake the hell out of my primary a few times after
pitching the yeast, and I don't seem to have any problems. Will my beer
actually taste better if I go through this extra hassle? I can't immagine
how a well mashed, properly fermented and lagered beer could be improved
upon even more. If my beer gets any better than it already is I don't think
I will be able to stop drinking it. Thats a scary thought. What if I made
my beer so good that once I took a drink of it I just could'nt stop? Man, I
think I'd better go get me a beer to settle my nerves.
He who laughs last, drinks first.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 9:49:25 CST
From: chips@coleslaw.me.utexas.edu (Chris Pencis)
Subject: Abita Turbo Dog
Hey folks - last night I had two Abita Turbo Dogs with a batch of
K'Pauls Shrimp Creole and I was in heaven. I have the recipe for the
shrimp, can anyone give me info/recipe on the Abita Turbo Dog? Extract
recipe, brewery info, anything...........Bueller.......Bueller.......
Chris
|Chris Pencis chips@coleslaw.me.utexas.edu |
|University of Texas at Austin Robotics Research Group |
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 10:48:33 -0500
From: Timothy J. Dalton <dalton@mtl.mit.edu>
Subject: Stein Lids Revealed / New Book on Hops
Re: stein lids revealed
Mark Bunster <mbunster@hibbs.vcu.edu> wrote:
> I remember seeing a guy in a bar pour 9/10 of his beer, then roll the bottle
> sideways back and forth for 10 minutes to build a good head to pour on top.
> Everybody has a system.
Most likely hefeweissbier. Pour out all but an inch, then shake up the
sediment to get it all out of the bottle and into the glass!
A common technique in Bavaria.
- ----------
Re: New Book on Hops
gjfix@utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) wrote:
> The following reference has just come to my attention:
> Chemestry and Analysis of Hop and Beer Bitter Acids
> M. Verzele and D.DeKeukeleire, Eds.
> Developments in Food Science
> Vol. 27
Also in the same series, Volume 28 is:
TITLE: Off-flavors in foods and beverages / edited by George Charalambous.
IMPRINT: Amsterdam ; New York : Elsevier, 1992.
PHYSICAL FEATURES: xiv, 749 p. : ill. ; 25 cm.
SERIES: Developments in food science ; 28
I haven't had time to look through this one yet, but it might be
interesting.
Tim
- ----
Timothy J. Dalton tjdalton@mit.edu
MIT, Dept. of Chemical Engineering, Materials Etching Technology Lab
--- Im Himmel ist kein Bier, darum trinken wir es hier. ---
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 10:51:03 EST
From: Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu
Subject: Bottle Inspection
When I (rarely) write a comment in the "bottle inspection" part, I do
it before opening the bottle. It thus serves as a reminder to me
about the state of the bottle, so that IF I find flaws that might be
related, I can refer back to it. (Short term memory is the first
thing to go.... What was the question, again?)
I've also commented things that are obviously unrelated to the beer
quality, such as a totally grungy bottle. Someone who wants me to
judge their beer should at least have enough pride in their product to
present me with a clean bottle. But, as you note, it doesn't affect
the score.
=S
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1993 09:44:01 -0500
From: cole@nevism.nevis.columbia.edu
Subject: Hydrometers / Haze problems
> Somebody asked why Jim Busch needs three hydrometers:
The reason is that the length of the tube in the hydrometer
below the surface of the liquid varies > INVERSELY <
proportional to the density of the liquid being measured.
Since you get your reading from this length, the reading
also varies inversely proportional to the density, i.e.
L = c * 1/Rho = L0 + (# of marks) * (distance between marks)
Writing this in terms of Specific Gravity:
L = c * (1/rho_water) * (1/SG)
This is a simplified version of the full expression but
it makes the point. You can think of it this way: the more
dense the liquid being measured, the higher the hydrometer
rises and the smaller the length of tube below the surface.
This expression can be linearized for small variations around
a nominal density, that of water. Expressing this variation in
terms of specific gravity:
SG = 1 + delta_SG
L = c * (1/rho_water) * (1 - delta_SG + delta_SG**2 + ...)
This means that if a hydrometer has to cover a range of specific
gravities from 1.000 to 1.100 using a linear scale, there will be
a 10% error in the measurement from one end of the scale to
the other (due to the delta_SG**2 term). Thus, high precision
(scientific quality) hydrometers use much shorter scales to improve
the accuracy of the measurement. There's also the issue of measurement
precision. If you want precise measurements (better than 0.001 error)
the hydrometer has to have a larger change in L for the same delta_SG
than those we use. Thus to cover the same range, the hydrometer becomes
longer. Conversely, if you want to keep the length within some
reasonable range, you have to keep the range covered by the hydrometer
shorter.
If you look in a scientific equipment catalog there will be hydrometers
which have smaller ranges than those used by homebrewers and they will
come in a wide variety of NOMINAL specific gravities.
***************************************************************************
I have a problem that I would like to consult HBD experts on. Since
I have been brewing all-grain beers, I have had lots of trouble with haze.
I have now done 8 all-grain batches. Two batches suffered from
chill haze, two batches were satisfactory, and the rest suffered from
haze problems that had nothing to do with chill-haze. These beers are
cloudy even when warm.
* At first I used a grain-bag in a bucket style lauter tun. After the first
three batches I felt that I was not getting sufficiently clear run-off
and switched to a copper manifold lauter-tun. After doing so, my run-off
cleared much more quickly.
* For the last three batches I have PH treated my sparge water to reduce
tannin extraction and have noticed a significant drop in astringency of
the runoff at the end of the sparge.
* For the last few batches I have been careful to limit the amount of
aeration of the runoff during the sparging process. I no longer try
to heat the runnings while I sparge as this requires too much pouring
of the hot liquor, I simply sparge directly through a hose into my
boiling kettle until I have finished.
* I have had problems using both German Pilsner Malt (with protein rest)
and British ale malts so I doubt that I am having protein problems
(except maybe for those suffering from chill haze).
* I suspect starch haze problems. For the two worst batches, I added the
crystal malts at the very end of the mash. On my last batch I was careful
to do an iodine test before and after addding the crystal and found to
my surprise that after adding the crystal, the test showed presence of
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
starch where the pre-test showed none. Has anyone else observed this
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
problem ???
* I am using a Corona mill and have been setting it to optimize (i.e. reduce)
husk shredding at the expense of having larger malt fragments and more
uncrushed kernels. I suspect I may be extracting starch during the
sparge from some uncoverted chunks of malt. I certainly have to mash much
longer than Miller would suggest (last batch - 3 hours for 10 # malt,
6# pale, 3# mild, 1# crystal). I would like to hear from other users of
the Corona mill re: problems with starch haze / long mashes etc..
* I am aware of the potential haze problems from infection by wild yeast etc.
One of my bad batches was fermented at 40 deg. and lagered at 32 for a
month. I don't know if bacteria or wild yeast could survive these
temperatures long enough to give me troubles. Also I have not been able
to detect any significant off-flavors in the two batches which suffered
the worst haze problems. That doesn't mean that they weren't contaminated
- I just may not be able to tell. I would be willing to send a couple of
bottles to someone who thinks he/she can detect off-flavors produced by
wild yeast fermentation.
Unfortunately, I have not been able to correlate the source of the haze
with any of the above changes/variables. My best two batches can between
two bad batches. I would welcome advice from experienced all-grain brewers.
Cheers,
Brian Cole
------------------------------
Date: 16 Dec 93 09:29:59 MST (Thu)
From: rcd@raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn)
Subject: accurate hydrometers
A while back I got a "bottling hydrometer" to use along with the regular
one. It helps a lot. The full-scale range is 0.980-1.020. (This compares
to about .990-1.170 for a standard brewing hydrometer.) Cost: about $15,
from William's Brewing. This is a good middle step between the old stan-
dard full-range hydrometer and expensive lab-grade equipment.
I find it useful for two reasons. First, obviously the 4+ x expansion of
the scale makes it much easier to read--the 0.001 units on the bottling
hydrometer are more than twice the size of the 0.002 units on the regular
hydrometer.
Second, meads often finish up down around 0.990; it's nice to have some
extra range on the hydrometer below that. (I suspect the bottom .010 on a
regular hydrometer isn't all that accurate, since there's only a tiny
section of the tube left above the liquid.)
I don't find a real need for an expanded-range hydrometer at the higher
gravities. Anything that's up there is generally fermenting quickly,
hence changing gravity quickly, hence a precise reading doesn't tell you a
lot. I use the regular hydrometer for the early stages, then switch to the
bottling hydrometer when things stop changing much.
Note that if you use an expanded-range hydrometer, you need to pay more
attention to the standard cautions about not having glop on the hydrometer
(especially on the part above the fluid line) and about measuring at cali-
bration temperature or applying temperature corrections. Otherwise you're
just buying precision, not accuracy.
---
Dick Dunn rcd@eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado USA
...Simpler is better.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1993 10:48:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Robert Jordan <JORDAN@ANLBEM.BIM.ANL.GOV>
Subject: Hops question
This is a little late, but what the hey......
I've been reading the recent discussion about hops and utilization and also
this information in the Hops FAQ and I admit to being a bit confused. I
plan on brewing a beer more or less following Papazian's Righteous Real Ale.
Now, I understand the concepts of IBUs, HBUs, %utilization, etc., but I'm
not sure that I'm using the formula's correctly. So I plan on boiling
6 lbs. of malt extract in 1.5 gallons water for 45 min. per the recipe.
According to Papzian then, I should get ~19% utilization. On to the
formulae (also from Papazian)-
IBU = HBU * %UTIL / 6.7
I want a target HBU of 8 so:
IBU = 8 * 19 / 6.7 = 22.7
OK. Now it's this part that for some reason is bothering me (sorry, Charlie.)
Weight(in oz) * AA * %Util
IBU = --------------------------
Volume * 1.34
Now I plan on using Cascade (AA=5.5) for bittering so...
Weight(in oz) * 5.5 * 19
22.7 = ------------------------
5 gal * 1.34
So Weight(in oz) = 1.46 oz --call it 1.5 oz
Have I got it right (assuming I've done the math correctly)? Sorry if this
question has been answered in the recent discussion. I suspect that it has, but
I didn't recognize the answer as such. Thanks in advance--
Rob
RJordan@anl.gov
P.S. Thank's to all who responded to my post a month or two ago about mail
order suppliers. It turns out that the best AND cheapest shop around is
20 minutes from my apartment....
------------------------------
Date: 16 Dec 1993 08:50:25 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel Welding
In HBD1299, Bill Kitch wondered:
I was wondering if the aluminum and/or copper cladding on the
bottom of the better SS pots made it difficult of impossible
to weld a spigot in place?
The answer is Yes, Definitely Impossible - If the weldment has to involve that
cladding. If it will not touch the weldment, then it is not an issue.
The stainless steel weld won't know the cladding is there.
John Palmer
MDA-SSD M&P
PS. Still have the How To Brew Your First Beer instructions. Its Rev.B thanks
to all the great comments I have received. Email me at palmer@ssdgwy.mdc.com
but please be circumspect in the subject line. Example: Document Rev.B
Our Mail Mgr is getting touchy about non work related use of company resources.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 12:09:28 EST
From: U-E68316-Scott Wisler <wisler_scott@ae.ge.com>
Subject: Bubbles/time and Threaded neck carboys
Al and Jim discuss hydrometer measurements vs bubbles per unit time.
The only time I have ever had false indications from the bubbles per
unit time method is brewing ales at the low end of the temperature range.
ie, fermenting in the basement during the winter.
I previoulsy used the bubbles to know when to bottle, and one hydrometer
measurement at the begining of the bottling process make sure I wasn't
mistaken. I didn't monitor the SG because I felt the risk of
infection/aeration was too high. Since I switched over to the BrewCap (tm)
system, I can monitor SG carefully, with much less chance of
infection/aeration.
A while back I remember someone mention that their brew was bubbling
`once per hour'. While I always waited for less activity than once per
minute or two, I can't imagine being carefully transfixed on an airlock
for more than an hour waiting for that second bubble (to get the time
increment).
****************
I have had difficulty siphoning out of my 6.6 gallon acid carboy because
the orange cap (siphon starter) doesn't seal on the threaded neck. For
those of you in a similiar situation, a solution is to use an O-ring
to help seal the orange cap. A 2" OD, 3/16 thick O-ring should do the
trick. It fits in the groove just below the top lip of the carboy. It
doesn't work quite as well as having a standard neck carboy (the one the
cap was designed for), but its inexpensive and passible. For those
asking for carboys for Christmas, getting a standard neck will save a
lot of grief, and they come in at least 5, 6, and 6.6 gal sizes.
For clarity, the orange carboy cap has nothing to do with the BrewCap
system and should not be used upside down as it will impart bad flavors
to your brew. The BrewCap doesn't fit on threaded neck carboys.
scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 12:35:38 EST
From: Matthew Causey <matthewc@hpwasb.wal.hp.com>
Subject: sign me up
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1993 10:58 -0600 (MDT)
From: Marc Hugentobler <MARHUG@TELECOM.USU.EDU>
Subject: Flat Dinosaurs, BJCP,etc.
The creee-eepy man writes he would like images of a certain flattened
dinosaur. HBD might not be the proper forum to search for such an
obscure document even though most of its patrons could probably
appreciate such an image. However, being the storehouse of obscure
information that I am, I thought it appropriate to oblige. There are
several Borderline-cultish forums who would like to see the big
purple menace meet with an untimely demise. Bear in mind I don't know
that any of them contain the image you seek, but that is the thrill of
the adventure. They are as follows:
Jet over to your Usenet gateway and peruse
Alt.tv.barney
Alt.tv.dinosaurs.die.die.die
Alt.barney.dinosaur.die.die.die
Alt.sex.bestiality.barney
For what its worth anyway
I personally have some questions of the forum many of who seem to be
certified beer judges. Is there any more information about The BJCP exam
available besides the outline available by anonymous ftp? More sample
questions and sample answers would be very helpful. I desperately want
of qualify but find myself confounded by the amount of information.
Personal Insights would also prove valuable. Thanks in advance!
Marc Dee Hugentobler
Utah State University
Marhug@telecom.usu.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1993 13:15:32 -0500 (EST)
From: gelinas@ekman.unh.edu (Russell Gelinas)
Subject: bottle inspection
The "Bottle Inspection" comments in an AHA competition can also tell
you how well your bottle did in transit. I had an entry panned, big time,
with comments like "phenolic, astrigent" and the ultimate insult "keep on
trying" :-). At the time it was the best beer I had ever brewed, and
everyone who tasted it thought so too. It had no phenols. I thought it
compared very favorably with the best of brewpub ales. So what happened?
Well, one strong indication was the comment "low fill line" in the bottle
inspection. I *knew* I had filled the bottles correctly. So *something*
happened that "hurt" my beer. Maybe the cap was loose and it picked up
some "flavor" from the surrounding plastic bag. Maybe the bottle somehow
got switched with another. I'll never really know. But it this case, the
"Bottle Inspection" comment was a valuable diagnostic for the *brewer*.
FWIW, since I still had 2 bottles of it, I immediately tried one. It
was fine. I sent the other off to a certified beer judge, who confirmed
it was a good beer, without any of the phenolic/astrigent defects noted
in the competition report. He did say it was "out of style" though :-)
Russ Gelinas
eos
unh
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1993 13:28:15 -0500 (EST)
From: gelinas@ekman.unh.edu (Russell Gelinas)
Subject: wyeast 1098/Whitbread
Was it ever settled if Wyeast 1098 has the 3 strains of Whitbread yeast
or just 1 of the strains? As a data point, I've got a batch in secondary
fermented with 1098 that went from 1.092 to 1.030 in 10 days. There was
a slowdown at about 5 days, which picked up again within a day. It is
now in the process of clearing. So it *acts* like 3 strains....
Russ Gelinas
eos
unh
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 13:50 EST
From: Tom Clifton <0002419419@mcimail.com>
Subject: Making separate messages out of HBD
'HBD.BAS 12/16/96 - For Quick Basic - makes individual files of HBD messages
'=========================================================================
'At the risk of aggrivating the Non-IBM PC readers of the Home Brew Digest -
'here is a basic program that I use to break the HBD into separate files
'and adds Digest # to Subject: line. You can run this from Quick Basic
'which comes with DOS, or compile it as a stand alone, then import them into
'your mail reader (I use LOTUS EXPRESS)
CLS
ON ERROR GOTO BadName 'If file name is invalid
PATH$ = "C:\MAILSYS\FLD.FLD\" 'Output directory for files
Seq = 0 'Sequence number for files
HBDfile$ = PATH$ + "HBD" + RIGHT$(STR$(Seq), LEN(STR$(Seq)) - 1) + ".TXT"
OPEN HBDfile$ FOR OUTPUT AS #2
LOCATE 10, 10: INPUT "Enter file Name :", File$
OPEN File$ FOR INPUT AS #1
DO WHILE NOT EOF(1) 'Read input file
LINE INPUT #1, Read$
IF LEFT$(Read$, 30) = "------------------------------" THEN GOSUB NewFile
IF LEFT$(Read$, 17) = "HOMEBREW Digest #" THEN
Tag$ = " [HBD " + MID$(Read$, (INSTR(Read$, "#")), 5) + "]"
END IF
IF LEFT$(Read$, 8) = "Subject:" THEN
Read$ = Read$ + Tag$
LOCATE 12, 10: PRINT STRING$(70, 32)
LOCATE 12, 10: PRINT Read$;
END IF
PRINT #2, Read$
LOOP
CLOSE
END
NewFile:
LINE INPUT #1, Read$
LINE INPUT #1, Read$
Seq = Seq + 1
CLOSE #2
HBDfile$ = PATH$ + "HBD" + RIGHT$(STR$(Seq), LEN(STR$(Seq)) - 1) + ".TXT"
LOCATE 11, 10: PRINT "HBD" + RIGHT$(STR$(Seq), LEN(STR$(Seq)) - 1) + ".TXT"
OPEN HBDfile$ FOR OUTPUT AS #2
RETURN
BadName:
BEEP: LOCATE 10, 10
LOCATE 10, 27
PRINT SPACE$(32);
LOCATE 10, 10
INPUT "Enter File Name :", File$
RESUME
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1993 11:55:00 -0500 (cdt)
From: Jonathan G Knight <KNIGHTJ@AC.GRIN.EDU>
Subject: early racking question
Having read on HBD that early racking can minimize the reabsorption of
diacetyl by the yeast (the point went unchallenged when it was made, I think -
is that right?) I decided to try that technique last night with a
(hopefully) Scottish Ale I have fermenting. When I made the transfer, the
gravity was down from a starting 1060 to about 1040, so it has plenty left to
ferment out. My question is, since the beer is less than half-done, gravity
wise, isn't there going to be a lot of yeast still to reabsorb that beloved
diacetyl when the secondary is done?
Supplementary info about this brew for those inclined to consider my query,
and some side questions. This was an extract/specialty grain recipe as
follows:
1 lb. dark crystal malt
1/2 lb. chocolate malt Steep in grain bag while heating water & remove
2 tsp. gypsum
6 lb. William's English Light Syrup
2 lb. William's EL DME
4 oz. Maltodextrin pwdr.
2 oz. English Fuggles (4.7 A.A.) boil for 60 minutes
1/2 tbsp. Irish Moss last 15 minutes
Wyeast "Irish" from starter
Yes I know Wyeast has just come out with a "Scotch" Ale yeast but I haven't
tried it.
A second reason I decided to rack early on was that the bottom of the primary
has the most disgusting looking trub in it I have ever seen. Really, it
looked like a brown version of what gets stuck like stalagmites in my kids'
noses. Big CLUMPS of yuck. Why could this be? Is it something to do with
maltodextrin powder (I've never used it before)? Or is it more likely that
it has something to do with the fact that I didn't get a very good cold break
(I attempted to "whirlpool" but I think I did it too late, after some of the
cooling already had taken place, so I probably just re-suspended the break
material. Duh.)?
Trying to save the yeast from the primary after racking this early was a real
adventure too. I almost had to call the National Guard to keep it from
taking over my house. "I'll just throw this stuff in a mason jar," I sez.
Hah! After watching the foam escape the loosely-fitting (good thing!) lid
and try to crawl out of the sink, I diverted some of it to a starter (give it
something to eat and it will go to sleep) in a 1L flask. Should have used
the gallon jug - this morning the stopper & airlock had blown off the top of
the flask and it was foaming away merrily. Having read all kinds of things
about "open fermentation," though, I confidently re-plugged it and cleaned
the outside of the flask. The rest of it, in the mason jar, I gave a cold
shower. A brief ice-water bath and then transferred to the fridge, to which
I returned every few minutes to "burp" the jar until the belches were no
longer quite so rowdy. This morning, thankfully, the jar was intact so we
didn't have to have brown scum for breakfast.
How early did I rack? On the fourth day of fermentation, to be precise, or
to be even more precise, about three and a half days after fermentation began
(I had a 12-hour lag because I had let the starter sit around too long). At
this time, the fermentation in the 5-gallon glass primary had subsided so
that the blowoff hose could be removed, the airlock was bubbling at about 1/
5 sec., and the krausen had subsided noticeably although it was far from
gone.
Did I rack too early? Normally, when I rack to secondary - usually for dry
hopping or for extended settling of a light colored beer so it doesn't sit on
the trub - I wait about a week, at which time the fermentation is mostly
over: bubbles at 2-4/min., krausen disappeared. Are there any proponents of
"early" racking out there who would like to comment? Anybody think "early"
racking is a waste of time? Come on now, let's take the gloves off and have
a few rounds of good clean fun.
Jonathan Knight
Grinnell, Iowa
Beer. It's just NOT for breakfast.
Any more?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 18:59:24 CDT
From: JEBURNS@ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: All-grain equipment & Kegging
I have been reading HBD for about two months now and have finally
decided to post a few questions. I moved from Washington State to
Indiana (my wife is going to grad school here), homebrewing is
fairly popular in WA. There are also quite a few micro-breweries,
my favorite is Red Hook from Seattle. I just started brewing again
after the move (had to leave my carboys at home), I have found the
HBD to be very helpful, its nice having a net connection. Anyway
I would like to start ewing all-grain beers, up until this point
I have been using extracts and specialty grains.
Question #1- It seems that there are a lot of people on the HBD who
use the modified picnic cooler method. This method isn't really
discussed by Miller. I would like comments on this system both positive
and negative. Is it only used for single temp mashing?
#2- What are the advantages/disadvantages to using 2-row vs. 6-row malts?
Is American Klages 2-row modified enough to use a single temp mash?
Red Hook uses that type + you can get it pretty cheap ($20 for #50 + shipping)
#3- I don't want to start a "my system is superior to your system" war but,
I would like to hear about different methods that people use. Basically
I'm looking for a method that I can use in my kitchen ( no 3 billion btu
cookers etc...) and is pretty simple. I understand the basic process
that is involved but haven't decided on the equipment. Any suggestions
or warnings about systems that I could build or buy would be appreciated.
Commercial products too (Easymasher, RIMS etc..)
#4- I have two Cornelius kegs that I would like to use. I can't afford
a CO2 tank and reg. So I would like to use them for parties (drink it all
before any oxidation). I can order the connectors and a dispenser but
I would have to rig up some sort of a pump to displace the beer. Would
this work? Any suggestions for pumps? I was thinking about a foot operated
bike pump. They also make a small CO2 bike pump, how many cartridges would
it take for 5-gallons of brew?
Thats all. Next time I won't wait until there are so many.
Dave Burns e-mail to jeburns@ucs.indiana.edu
or
1207 Crescent Rd.
Bloomington, IN 47404
Thanks
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 18:11 CST
From: arf@mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: TUN DESIGN
<From: Jay Hersh <hersh@x.org>
<from Jack S.... (I know I'm probably gonna regret this :-)
Just remember, if you do, it's self-inflicted. As Harry once said, if you
can't stand the heat.....
> We exchanged mail on this subject but you failed to mention the hole size of
> the lauter tun false bottom. It looks to me like another classic example of
> how scaling down commercial equipment to hombrew sized batches just does not
> work very well. 3/32" holes are probably too large for the geometry of a
> homebrew tun.
<Jack, what would the scale of the brewery have to do with the sizing of the
holes in the lauter bottom?? This is a function of the size of the grain itself
as the purpose is to server as a seive allowing wort ot pass through but grain
to remain behind?? Can you explain the basis of your comment linking the size
to the scale of the brewery??
I probably couldn't before receiving another letter from the originator of
the thread. My only argument was that if 3/32" holes work in large tuns but
not in a small one, it must have something to do with geometry.
Turns out that grain for a 5 gallon batch "barely covers the bottom" so he is
forced to make larger batches but apparently not large enough. So I was on
the right track but probably for the wrong reason. The larger holes only
work well with a large depth to diameter ratio but smaller holes would be
more forgiving. I am not sure why one would want larger holes and thereby
put such constraints on the aspect ratio but therein at least, seems to be
the answer.
For the record, the screen I use on the EM has 32 mesh screen and taking the
wire diameter into consideration, the hole size is roughly ten times smaller
than the "professional" size.
> I hate to sound like a broken record, but all your problems will go away if
<No, really you don't :-)
Broken records tend to annoy people and my mission is to share what I have
learned with others and learn what they have learned from them.
js
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1300, 12/17/93
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