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HOMEBREW Digest #1281
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 93/11/25 00:34:46
HOMEBREW Digest #1281 Thu 25 November 1993
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Hello Everyone (GNT_TOX_)
ATTN: BEER HUNTERS (LLAPV)
Sodium Hydroxide (GANDE)
Frank Jones Brewery (Mike Peckar 24-Nov-1993 0956)
Counterpressure Bottler Questions (drose)
Two types of Rauch beers (Bob Jones)
Beer ads ("David H. Thomas")
Rauchbier (SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42)
Iodine Test: Use or Not? ("John J. Magee")
sterilizing bottle caps and Rauchbier (Ulick Stafford)
Crabcake Effect / Sam Adams beers (Lee=A.=Menegoni)
Crabtree/sterols/peroxide (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Imprtance of competing chemical reactions? (lyons)
PET Bottles ("Mark T. Berard")
Ads/ Keg Faq/ Mail Order/ Keg Parts/ Taps and Mac ClipArt/ (COYOTE)
getting wort into primary/chiller cleaning/changing yeast midstream (Keith MacNeal 24-Nov-1993 1323)
rauchbier (Mark Bunster)
wyeast types (oeinkeranen)
Grains/Easymashing ("Moore, Brian")
Thanksgiving (Dan Watson)
Box crates, Lids, G.L.V.M., AND Smoke (ELQ1)
brewmart danish style pils problem (Pat Barling)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 08:13 EST
From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET@PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU>
Subject: Hello Everyone
Hello everyone, I'm new to homebrewing and I'm new to HBD but I like
what I see. I do have 2 questions:
1- I've read that Aluminum should not be used as a brewpot, and that
cast iron is bad also, because both can impart a metallic taste to the
beer. If I can't use cast iron or aluminum, what am I supposed to
use?
2- What do the readers of HBD think of using Grolsch flip top bottles
to bottle beer. I know homebrew shops carry gaskets for these bottles,
but I've never seen anyone buy them. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
3- And, if you live in Northeast PA, 1-Quart A-Treat soda bottles are
wonderful for brewing. They cap nicely, and you can bottle one quart
at a time. Makes filling less tedious(sp?)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 09:03:06 EST
From: John DeCarlo <jdecarlo@homebrew.mitre.org>
"Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz@PICA.ARMY.MIL>
Subject: Re: Shelf-Life of Beer
"Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz@PICA.ARMY.MIL> writes:
> I was under the impression that beers
>that are carb'd via priming last only about 2-3 months, due to the
>presence of the spent yeast sediment in the bottle.
Yow! I don't know where you heard that, but it is actually the reverse, if
anything. While there are many factors affecting beer stability in the
bottle, the presence of live yeast means that the beer will last *much longer*
in the bottle.
John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo@mitre.org
If I were you, who would be reading this sentence?
------------------------------
Date: Wednesday, 24 November 93 08:30:23 CST
From: LLAPV@utxdp.dp.utexas.edu
Subject: ATTN: BEER HUNTERS
Howdy,
Disclaimer: I'm not interested in SA "politics", so please don't include this
posting in any "Koch bashing".
I have a 6-pack of Noche Buena at home, & am interested in trading 2 bottles
of it for 2 bottles of Sam Adams Cranberry "Lambic". I figure that someone
out there on the east coast might think this is a fair deal. For those who
don't know, Noche Buena is brewed by the Cervezaria Moctezuma in Mexico.
It's a deep amber lager, full bodied & mild. Very good, & it hasn't been on
the American market for a few years now. It's brewed especially for Christmas.
This is the beer that George Fix referred to in a recent HBD posting. He would
refer to this beer as a Vienna style, I believe (but I don't want to stick
words into his mouth for him). Anyway, e-mail me directly if you are
interested. First come, first serve. I'm also willing to trade a couple of
bottles of homebrew in the deal, if you are! BTW, 'cuz of Thanksgiving, it
may be Monday before I respond to any responses.
Peace,
Alan, Austin
------------------------------
Date: 24 Nov 93 15:04:07 GMT
From: GANDE@slims.attmail.com
Subject: Sodium Hydroxide
If I wash all my metal brewing equipement with a sodium hydroxide
solution, what's the best process for ensuring that it's all rinsed
off? Can any Microbrewers on the digest offer a 'professional'
opinion that I can take to the bank?
TIA....GA
+----------------------------------+
| Internet: gande@slims.attmail.com|
| Glenn Anderson |
| Manager, Telecom. Facilities |
| Sun Life of Canada |
+----------------------------------+
------------------------------
Date: 24 Nov 93 15:10:28 GMT
From: cssc!cong@scuzzy.attmail.com (brew )
Full-Name: brew
Subject: Brunswick Brew Club
To CENTRAL NEW JERSEY HOMEBREWERS
There is a new Homebrew club in town, The Brunswick Brew Club.
NO DUES but plenty of FREE info and encouragement.
We are a new club who has developed a simple charter.
We wish to elevate the art of Home Brewing to it's highest level.
If we happen to tip a few beers in the process, even better.
The club meets every third Thursday of the Month at 7:00 PM at
Brunswick Brewing Supply, 727 Raritan Ave (Rt. 27), Highland Park, NJ.
Next Meeting, December 16.
We are an AHA recognized club in search of new members with any level
of experience. We have some Beer related road trips planned and are
always looking for more road trip ideas.
Everyone attending a Brunswick Brew Club
meeting is invited to bring along a few homebrews for tasting
cong
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 10:10:56 EST
From: Mike Peckar 24-Nov-1993 0956 <m_peckar@cscma.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Frank Jones Brewery
A group is forming to attempt to purchase The Frank Jones Brewery in
Portsmouth, NH. The brewery is a 4800 bbl producer that is currently in
recievership and is slated to be auctioned within three weeks. Investors
are being immediately sought. The minimum investment will be five thousand
dollars. Investments will be discounted 10% and put into escrow pending the
results of the auction. The Frank Jones name would be preserved if the deal
goes through. Contact me by email if you are interested in becoming an
investor.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 09:22:04 CST
From: nfarrell@ppco.com (Norman Farrell)
Subject: Beer adverts. and new yeast in secondary
James Clark writes about his displeasure with megabrew adds:
And, I must make a loud second to his complaints. I suppose
this is flame bait, but here goes. The mega brews and their
adverts. do all responsible drinkers and homebrewers a great
diservice. Maybe James is right and it is not enough to simply
not buy their swill. "Budmiller" is dangerous to our rights.
It offers no sensation of fullness or gustatory ($5 word)
satisfaction until you have drank a lake of it. These beers
are intended to be and are soda pop for adults. They are
nothing more than an alcohol delivery system. They have only
a limited usefulness in our society. They encourage abuse
by their very characteristics. I bet the neo-pro's love it.
The "joe/jane six pack" culture plays right into their hands.
There, have I raved enough? Say yes already.
Trever Miller on adding yeast to the secondary.
Oxygen will be depleted by racking time and yeast added to the secondary
will not respire much. That is, they will not increase in number
from what you pitch. So, pitch a vast quantity of yeast slurry.
In order to have enough O2 to start respiration again without
oxidizing the beer you would need to add 2 1/2 to 3 gallons
of fresh wort with the new yeast. Your fermenter probably will
not handle that!
Hoppy Turkey Day to All
Norman (nfarrell@ppco.com)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1993 10:31:38 -0500 (EST)
From: drose@husc.harvard.edu
Subject: Counterpressure Bottler Questions
Hello:
I recently recieved a counterpressure bottler as a gift.
Yesterday I got the assorted hoses and connectors that I need to run the
thing, and it didn't take long to find out that I don't really know how to
work it. There are two general possibilities: I'm hooking it up wrong,
or I'm using it wrong. So, first, this is how I hooked it up:
Beer Line in--> ----------------- ---> Vent out
------+ +-------
| |
| |
Gas in ---> ------| |-+
----+ | | |
| | | |
\ | | /
| |
| |
|
V
Gas and Beer Out
My beer line runs direct from the keg to the contraption. My gas
line runs from the tank to a t-fitting, one end of which goes to the keg,
the other to the contraption.
The way I used it is as follows: put contraption in bottle. Open
gas valve (noise of gas filling bottle and equilibrating). Open valve for
a while to purge bottle (noise of gas escaping from bottle). Close valve,
close gas line, open beer line. Wait for beer to fill bottle under
pressure. Remove contraption and cap immediately.
The problem: Well, if I thought about it i would have figured out
that since the keg and the bottle are under the same pressure, there is no
reason at all for the beer to move from the keg into the bottle. In fact,
this is exactly what happens: nothing. Or at least very little. The beer
enters the bottle slowly or not at all. I tried using gravity to help me
along, i.e. put keg on table, put bottle on floor. Besides being very
awkward, this helped very little.
So, counterpressure experts, what am I missing? Or is this the
way it "works?" Help.
Dave Rose.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1993 07:40:26 +0800
From: bjones@novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones)
Subject: Two types of Rauch beers
>WESTEMEIER@delphi.com asks about smoked Rauchbier aroma
>
>
>My problem is that although the smoke comes through wonderfully well in
>the flavor, my beer is always eliminated in competitions because the
>smoke is so subtle in the aroma that it's not in the same league with
>the winners.
>
>I have tasted some of the winners at competitions in this category, and
>they generally smell and taste like the brewery was burning down around
>the batch as it was brewed. What am I not doing right?
>
Well I'll get up on my soap box and suggest there are two Rauch beers here.
The ones that are drinkable and ones that win competitions! I have had
several very well made Rauch beers and personally enjoy the subtle play of
smoke and malt flavors and aromas. Now I had the smoked ale at the AHA
nationals that won Paddy Giffen homebrewer of the year. IMNSHO it was too
smokey! We're talken rip your lips off with smoke! There is this numbing
phenomena that goes on at competition judging that desensitizes all judges
palates. So you need to decide if your brewing your Rauch beers to your
taste or for competitions.
Maybe Tom Altenbach would jump in here and tell us a few tales about his
great Rauch beers and his mixed success in putting them in competitions.
Bob Jones
bjones@novax.llnl.gov
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1993 10:40:42 -0500 (EST)
From: "David H. Thomas" <dhthomas@lis.pitt.edu>
Subject: Beer ads
May I suggest to Mr. Clark that he take his television and throw it out
the window, much as they once did at the beginning of SCTV (way back
when). I agree wholeheartedly with him regarding beer advertising, which
is merely the worst aspect of television advertising (or television
itself, for that matter). It's been several years now since I threw out
my television so as not to turn into a quivering blob of mindless animal
matter, and the few occasions I get to see tv remind me all over again
why I did it.
Frankly, I'd much rather kill brain cells hoisting homebrews than
watching tv.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 16:18:00 +0000
From: SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42@ptp.hp.com
Subject: Rauchbier
Ed Westemeier asks about smoke aroma...
I think your problem is that you're losing the aromatic smoke oils during
your boil.
I suggest "dry smoking" your beer. Add a few handfuls of smoke in the secondary
and let it really soak in. Or, you could use an EasySmoker(tm) (sorry Jack, I
beat you to it) made of charred sticks tied aroung the end of a copper pipe.
You can make your own easily or buy one from me (not an advertisement).
Mike Schrempp
------------------------------
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by HELIX.MGH.HARVARD.EDU
From: "John J. Magee" <magee@HELIX.MGH.HARVARD.EDU>
Subject: Iodine Test: Use or Not?
Last night, for my 3rd all-grain attempt I brewed up 4 gallons of a strong
Scotch Ale, and managed to achieve only about 20 points extraction. This
obviously hurt the necessary beefiness of a Scotch Ale wort; going into the
fermenter the gravity was 56-57 rather than the target 80. Oh well.
Since I've achieved rates of about 25 on my last two batches ( I was counting on
27+ this time due to practice & better technique), I think here the problem
might be traceable to incomplete starch conversion. Why? 'Cause there were
traces of black in my iodine test when I decided to sparge.
'Why decide to sparge when your iodine test showed some black?', you ask. Well,
the mash had been happening for about 1.5 hours (single temp; 152-156 deg.), and
a previous test had shown rampant black. Now the blackness appeared granular-
there were lots of little tiny dots of black rather than a true black color.
I've read Miller, and he says that the iodine test is useless because cellulose
particles react like starch. I decided that those little tiny dots were probably
cellulose particles. I sparged. This was probably stupid. I have a Wee rather
than a Wee Heavy :).
Did I mess up? Are iodine tests useful? It was depressing to be counting on (and
needing for style) my highest extraction rate yet and to end up with a pathetic
one. But the best thing about homebrew is that within broad limits it's always
tasty as long as it's not infected.
**************************************************
John J. Magee * magee@helix.mgh.harvard.edu
**************************************************
Research Assistant/Computer Systems
Mass. General Hospital
Neuropsychology
(617) 726 3669
**************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 11:37:55 EST
From: ulick@michaelangelo.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: sterilizing bottle caps and Rauchbier
Chuck Wettergreen suggest sanitizing Pureseal caps prior to use with a
sanitizing solution. This comment got me wondering. I never sterilize
my caps by boiling or anything prior to use because of laziness and a
fear that heat my deform the plastic lining. Are caps a risk? Has anyone
taking a slant of packaged caps to see what may live on them, or noticed
contamination that could be blamed on unsterilized caps?
Ed Westmeier wants very smoky beer - why not bubble smoke through the
secondary (dry-smoking?)? Seriously, apart from competition reasons,
why do you want smokier beer? I personally think Rauchbier, or at least
the commercial stuff, is one of the foulest tasting beers on the market
(acquired taste, maybe?). I had the stuff at Zekes, a bar in Dowagiac
in Southwestern Michigan with over 150 imports, and was informed by
my homebrewsuppliessupplier that once when he and a group of friends were
there one of them asked for their foulest beer, and without hesitation
the barmaid got a Rauchbier. I remember that the giggest problem, IMHO, was
an overbearing sweetness.
__________________________________________________________________________
'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s@&* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng.
Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556
| ulick@darwin.cc.nd.edu
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 11:51:16 EST
From: Lee=A.=Menegoni@nectech.com
Subject: Crabcake Effect / Sam Adams beers
RE: The CrabCake effect.
Recent studies have shown that moderate to heavy bodied beers, when
consumed in moderation, can lead to the CrabCake Effect in humans.
Stated briefly the precursors to the CrabCake effect are low quality
crabcakes, usally found in frozen food sections, that contain a high
fraction of bread, flour or other grain based filler. These cakes
when consumed in conjunction with small amounts of beers higher in Final
Gravity than most American Premiums and Light cause an apparent recombination
in the stomach with the consumer suffering from a feeling that one is
filled with a giant CrabCake. The most obvious outward sympton is the
inability to consume more beer. Found particularly capable of producing
the CrabCake effect were products produced by the Boston Beer Company, brewers
of Sam Adams beers. Additional research is being conducted to determine
if the method of chilling the prefermentation product has an impact on
this effect. Noted Italian chefs have indicated that a similar phenomenon,
The Gnochi Syndrome, can be avoided by the consumption of Red Wine. Though
red wine with fish is anathema with wine lovers research is under way as to
the effect of white and blush wines on the Crab Cake Effect.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 12:32:57 EST
From: Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu
Subject: Crabtree/sterols/peroxide
korz@iepubj.att.com writes:
> BTW, I read somewhere, that sucrose has twice the carbonating potential of
> corn sugar (dextrose, glucose), but have never seen it anywhere else. I
> don't think this is true. Anyone know for sure?
Per molecule, maybe. Per weight, no way. Just count carbons.
1 mole of monosaccharide makes 2 moles ethanol and 2 moles CO2:
C6H12O6 -> 2 C2H5OH + 2 CO2
1 mole of sucrose (disaccharide) makes 2 moles of monosaccharide:
C12H22O11 + H20 -> 2 C6H12O6
but they weigh almost the same (1 mole of sucrose (342 grams) is 18
grams lighter than 1 mole each glucose & fructose (360 g total)).
Alternatively, 1 g of glucose makes .489 g CO2 and .511 g ethanol. 1g
of sucrose would make .515g CO2 and .538g ethanol. So, yes, the
carbonating potential of sucrose is slightly higher (5%) than that of
glucose.
=S
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 93 11:23:41 EST
From: lyons%adc1@swlvx2.msd.ray.com
Subject: Imprtance of competing chemical reactions?
In HBD #1279 Todd gave the following reactions:
> eq 1: fermentation of glucose
>
> C6H12O6 ------> 2 C2H5OH + 2 CO2
> (ethanol)
>
> eq 2: respiration of glucose
>
> C6H12O6 + 6 O2 --------> 6 CO2 + 6 H2O
One reaction converts sugar to water, while the other converts
sugar to alcohol. Does this imply that two different batches
of beer, with identical OGs & FGs, could have significantly
different alcohol concentrations based on the initial oxygen
content prior to fermentation? Would this imply that pitching
a large yeast starter (maybe using the dreggs of the previous
batch) and not aerating the wort would result in a more
potent product? I'm wondering why the homebrew in which I attempt
to match the OG & FG of some commercial products always seems to
have more of a kick too it?
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1993 12:24:07 EST
From: "Mark T. Berard" <mtberard@dow.com>
Subject: PET Bottles
I recently posted asking about PET bottles. The responses have been very
positive, that is, there don't seem to be any Major problems with using
them. A few of the key comments are shown below. Thanks to all who responded.
>From: John Mare <cjohnm@ccit.arizona.edu>
Notes that "Several high-quality British brewers are marketing "real ales" in
PET bottles (eg. Sam Smith). I have also encountered a South African
(Mitchells) and Canadian (Wellington) who successfully use these plastic
bottles."
>From: Drew Lynch <drew@chronologic.com>
Notes that the bottles are clear and so one must consider UV degradation
of the beer, which "can give it a skunky smell... so you may want to keep
them covered."
>From: John DeCarlo <jdecarlo@homebrew.mitre.org>
>1) They may be oxygen permeable--I wouldn't store in them over a year.
>2) People have reported that some versions (Dr. Pepper?) of soda leave a
> lingering taste--I use the Seltzer ones primarily.
>3) You can squeeze them to tell if carbonation is complete.
>4) They can stand higher pressures than regular glass bottles, in case you
> worry. [Heaven Forbid!]
>5) They are perfect for parties--you don't care if you don't bring the bottle
> back home with you.
Overall the use of PET bottles seems perfectly reasonable. Just pour your
beer into a nice looking glass before you let your friends see it! ;-)
Dr. Mark T. Berard | Internet: mtberard@dow.com
Snailmail: | Voice: 504-353-8418
Dow Chemical, La. R&D, Bldg. 2506 | FAX: 504-353-6608
PO Box 400, Plaquemine LA 70765 | SCIENCE!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1993 11:35:10 -0600 (MDT)
From: COYOTE <SLK6P@cc.usu.edu>
Subject: Ads/ Keg Faq/ Mail Order/ Keg Parts/ Taps and Mac ClipArt/
>
> James- grumbleS 'bout beer commercials (but lets NOT start a discussion!)
>
* Just sit back, enjoy the buxom breasts and bulging bicepts and pretend
it's a Nike commercial. Crack another hb and wait for Trek to return. :)
***
Keg Faq- add counter pressure filling. Otherwise the outline looks
good. Let me know if I can help. :) Tho- I'm no pro...
***
>
> Dan (?) pickerel@micom.com had a list of Mail order supplies:
>
* I just typed up a list of suppliers from Brewtechniques Vol 1. No. 4
and some from the southwest brewing news. I could e-mail it to anyone
who asks. Most of the ones I gathered had 800 numbers and free catalogs.
I do have an extensive list (hard copy) , but never had the motivation to
TYPE it into a database, but BOY that would be nice to have! NationWide!
***
Larry Atkinson was looking for fitting for kegs- real bar type kegs.
* I don't know what type the Labatts counts as- but here is a supplier
for bar equipment, including all kinds of fittings and pieces for kegs-
some are useful for soda keg usage too. Things like shanks and taps.
Oliver D. Ennis 4151-53 Sepulveda Blvd, Culver City, CA. 90230
800-843-6647
Foxx Equip. 421 SW Blvd, Kansas City, MO.
800-821-2254/
Have some stuff for big kegs. They might be able to tell you what you need.
* No connection, just have their catalogs! Bonk Bonk! Tell 'em Jim!
***************************** QUESTIONs *********************************
1. Hey- Anyone know of a source for nice taps handles. You know the tall
kind of pull taps, to go on a fridge shank, not onto a bar...
good beer brands would be preferable to shlits (- the l ) Hep' me!?
2. Anyone have any good beer/brewing related clip art. Prefereably MAC
format. PICT is good. I am especially looking for pictures of HOPS,
BARLEY, KEGS, CASKS, GLASSES, MUGS, But especially decorative hops and
barley vines, and sheafs. I have various animals, and some mugs, but
not much to make BEER labels from.
ALSO: I'd really like to find a GOOD picture of a....C O Y O T E..what else!
Ideal would be a COYOTE howling, maybe even a cactus nearby, or a moon...
If you haven't figured out...trying to get a LOGO together for my "brewery".
I will gladly send homebrew or mead to anyone able to help me sufficiently!
**********************************************************************
Today is SCOTCH ALE day. Oh yum. Gotta go grind! I get to try my new
belgian malts for the first time! (Thanx Lynne!)
So many beers to brew, so many beers to sample....whats a guy to do but brew.
Chow for Now.
John (The Coyote) Wyllie SLK6P@cc.usu.edu
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 13:34:35 EST
From: Keith MacNeal 24-Nov-1993 1323 <macneal@pate.enet.dec.com>
Subject: getting wort into primary/chiller cleaning/changing yeast midstream
JC Ferguson asked about cleaning immersion wort chillers prior to use. I
soaked mine in a solution of TSP, bleach, and water (the same solution I use
to clean bottles and remove the lables). It worked great in getting the
grease and grime off. The only thing I do now to get it ready for use is to
put it in the boiling wort 15 minutes or so before removing it from the heat.
The copper tubing does get a bit brighter after use, but I don't think a
little copper oxide is going to hurt anything in the beer (if it did, we'd
have to scrap all of our copper plumbing).
To get my wort into the primary after chilling, I use the same approach Mark
Bunster outlines in Homebrew Digest #1280 (November 24, 1993). And if by
chance some of the break material and hop pellets work their way through the
strainer into the fermenter, I relax and have a homebrew. I know Dave Miller
likes to get the beer off the trub as soon as possible but I really haven't
seen any compelling information that makes me want to start whirlpools and
siphons, drill holes in my brewpot, worry about filters, or add another
racking step (and all its complications) to my process.
In Homebrew Digest #1280 Tever Miller asks about repitching his Tarpit Stout
with champagne yeast. My response is why? I brewed an Imperial Stout using
only Irish Ale yeast from Wyeast. I didn't have any problems with it
fermenting out.
Keith MacNeal
Digital Equipment Corp.
Hudson, MA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 14:23:29 EST
From: Mark Bunster <mbunster@hibbs.vcu.edu>
Subject: rauchbier
* My problem is that although the smoke comes through wonderfully well in
* the flavor, my beer is always eliminated in competitions because the
* smoke is so subtle in the aroma that it's not in the same league with
* the winners.
*
* Short of using some sort of "liquid smoke" solution (which I absolutely
* refuse to try), is there some trick to get the smoke aroma to express
* itself more strongly?
*
This is just a thought--no idea whether it will work:
try rigging up some way to smoke your hops. Not necessarily the bittering hops
(although you can try that too), but the finishing hops, the ones that do
much to give aroma. If you don't use finishing hops, maybe try.
Ah, rauchbiers. I remember being treated to one as a 17 year old in Nuernberg
Germany, in a bar near the medieval castle downtown. My grandfather explained
its origins (it's known as a Schlaenkerla there) and handed me a half-litre.
The smell about knocked me down, and I remember the omnipresent feeling that
I was drinking a beer and bacon fat solution. It grew on me, though, and by
the bottom of the glass I was ready for another. My grandfather wisely
demured--when we stood to go I was pretty wobbly.
- --
Mark Bunster |Exchange conversation if you dare--
Survey Research Lab--VCU |Share an empty thought or a laugh.
Richmond, VA 23220 |
mbunster@hibbs.vcu.edu |
(804) 367-8813/353-1731 | -edFROM
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1993 12:16:53 -0800
From: oeinkeranen@esd114.wednet.edu
Subject: wyeast types
I was fortunate enough to get a copy of the following Wyeast Yeast Profiles
from Wyeast Labs (1-503-354-1335) courtesy of our good friends at Evergreen
Brewing Supply in Bellevue, Wa. (1-800-789-BREW). BTW, they (EBS) have an
impressive list of Belgian malts which, as far as I know, no one else in town
carries (and I've been in them all).
WYEAST LABORATORIES YEAST PROFILES
Ales Saccharomyces cerevisiae
- ---- ------------- ----------
1007 Our original Ale Yeast of German origin. Ferments dry and crisp leaving
a complex yet mild flavor. Produces an extremely rocky head and ferments
well down to 55xF. Flocculation is high and apparent attenuation is 73-
77%.
1084 Irish-style Ale Yeast. Slight residual diacetyl and fruitiness is great
for stouts. It is clean, smooth, soft and full-bodied. Medium
flocculation and apparent attenuation of 71-75%.
1338 European yeast from Wissenschaftliche in Munich. A full-bodied complex
strain, finishes very malty. Produces a dense, rocky head during
fermentation. High flocculation, apparent attenuation of 67-71%.
1098 British Ale Yeast from Whitbread. Ferments dry and crisp, slightly tart
and well balanced. Ferments well down to 65xF. Medium flocculation,
apparent attenuation 73-75%.
1056 American Ale Yeast. Ferments dry, finishes soft, smooth and clean, and
is very well balanced. Flocculation is low to medium. Apparent
attenuation of 73-77%.
1028 London Ale Yeast. Rich minerally profile, bold crisp slight diacetyl
production. Medium flocculation. Apparent attenuation 73-77%.
1214 Belgian Ale Yeast. Abbey-style top fermenting yeast suitable for high
gravity beers, doubles, triples, and barley wines. Medium flocculant
strain which clears well. Apparent attenuaton 71-75%.
Lager Saccharomyces uvarum
- ---- ------------- ------
2007 Our original Lager Yeast Strain. Specific for pilsner-style beers.
Known as many things, we call it Pilsen. Ferments dry, crisp, clean and
light. Medium flocculation. Apparent attenuation 71-75%.
2308 Munich Yeast from Wissenschaftliche in Munich #308. One of the first
pure yeast available to American homebrewers. Sometimes unstable, but
smooth, soft, well-rounded and full-bodied. Medium flocculation,
apparent attenuation 73-77%.
2042 Danish Yeast Strain. Rich, yet crisp and dry. Soft, light profile which
accentuates hop characteristics. Flocculation is low, apparent
attenuation is 73-77%.
2206 Bavarian Yeast Strain used by many German breweries. Rich flavor,
full-bodied, malty and clean. Medium flocculation, apparent attenuation
of 73-77%.
2035 American Lager Yeast. Unlike American pilsner styles. It is bold and
complex and woody, produces slight diacetyl. Medium flocculation,
apparent attenuation of 73-77%.
2124 Bohemian Lager Yeast. The traditional Saaz yeast from Czechoslovakia.
ferments clean and malty, rich residual maltiness in high gravity
pilsners, medium flocculation, apparent attenuation of 69-73%.
2112 California Lager Yeast. Warm fermenting bottom cropping strain, frements
well to 62xF while keeping lager characteristics. Malty profile, highly
flocculan, clears brilliantly. Apparent attenuation of 72-76%.
YEAST and BATERIA CULTURE PROFILES Saccharomyces delbrueckii, s. cerevisae
3056 Bavarian Weissen. A blend of s. cerevisiae and delbruekii to produce a
south german style wheat beer with a cloying sweetness, when the beer is
fresh. Mdeium flocculation, apparent attenuation of 73-77%.
Wine Yeast
- ---- -----
3021 Prise de mousse, Institute Pasteur champagne yeast race bayanus. Crisp
and dry, ideal for sparkling and still wine and fruit wines. Low
foaming, excellent barrel fermentation, good flocculating characteristics.
Ferments well at low (55xF) temperatures. Also can be used for Barley
wines.
3028 French (bordeux) wine yeast ideally suited for red and white wines which
mature rapidly or reds requiring aging. Moderate foaming, low sulphur
production over a wide temperature range. Enhances the fruity
characteristics of most wines.
Sake Yeast Saccharomyces sake
- ---- ----- ------------- ----
3134 Japanese Rice Beer Yeast Strain for use in conjunction with Koji
(Aspergillus oryzae) for making a variety of sake styles. Full-bodied
profile with true sake character.
Malo-lactic Bateria
- ----------- -------
Leuconostoc oenos
4007 Malo-lactic culture blend isolated from western Oregon wineries.
Includes strains Ey2d and Er1a. Excellent for high acid wines and low
pH. Softens wines by converting harsh malic acid to milder lactic acid.
Can be added to juice any time after the onset of yeast fermentation when
sulphur dioxide is less than 15 ppm.
BRAND NEW ALE, LAGER, AND LAMBIC YEAST STRAINS (as of 11-18-93)
1968 Special London ALe Yeast. Highly flocculant ale yeast with rich malty
character and balanced fruitiness. High degree of flocculation makes
this an excellent strain for cask conditioned ales.
1728 Scottish Ale Yeast. Rich smokey, peaty character ideally suited for
Scottish style ales, smoked beers and high gravity beers.
2565 Kolsh Yeast. A hybrid of Ale and Lager characteristics. This strain
develops excellent maltiness with subdued fruitiness, and a crisp finish.
Ferments well at moderate temperatures.
2278 Czech Pils Yeast. Classic dry finish with rich maltiness. Good choice
for pilsners and bock beers. Sulpher produced during frementation
dissapates with conditioning.
3068 Wheinstephen Wheat Yeast. Saccharomyces delbrueckii single strain
culture for German wheat beers.
3944 Belgian White Beer Yeast. Rich, phenolic character for classic Belgian
styles, including Grand Cru.
3273 Brettanomyces bruxellensis. Belgian lambic style yeast with rich,
earthy, odiferous character and acidic finish.
Vic Keranen
just in case you are wondering, I don't work for either co. Just a homebrewer
who figured I should pass this on since I haven't seen this info anywhere else.
oeinkeranen@vaxj.esd114.wednet.edu
oeinkeranen@vaxj.esd114.wednet
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 15:11:00 PST
From: "Moore, Brian" <Moorebw@hvsmtp1.mdc.com>
Subject: Grains/Easymashing
Hello All,
Just a few general grain questions:
First of all, I've been looking at a lot of recipes lately to find some
tasty pale ales and such. Many of these recipes call for something on the
order of 1/2 # 30 (L) Crystal, and 1/2 # 90 (L) Crystal. Would this not be
the same as 1 whole pound of 60 (L) Crystal? Would there be any difference
in the flavors either way?
Secondly, I've been considering buying one or two fifty pound sacks of 2-Row
malt (There's a place in Orlando where you can get a fifty pound sack for
$19.95). Since I don't have a mill, I'm going to buy the grains pre-crushed
(Free crushing). I will probably use them all within a couple of months.
I've heard talk that crushing grains and then keeping them around for a
while will cause the grains to "go stale/bad". What exactly does this mean?
Will the stale/bad grains not give me as much goodness? Will my beer taste
stale? Should I even be concerned or is this more of the boogy/bogyman
talking?
Now on to easymashing ...
Sorry Jack, this isn't about an E(e)asymasher (I'm a cooler man myself).
Here is a technique John Goodman and myself have used to cut our all-grain
brewing time in half. Hopefully this will help some of you out there who are
afraid of the extra time all-graining takes. Since my house is only about 5
miles from work, I go home for lunch (about 10 minute trip). Immediately
upon arrival, I put about 2.5 gallons of water on my propane burner to heat
to about 175 F. In the seven minutes this takes, I put all of my premeasured
grains in the cooler (slotted copper manifold, etc. etc.). Once the water is
heated, I mash-in and put the lid on the cooler (The mash temperature
stabilized at about 158-160). Now I grab a quick sandwich (not necessarily
off of the garage floor) and return to work. Total time: about 45 minutes.
Once back in the office, I work for about 2 to 2.5 hours (this technique
does call for leaving early, although I guess a 3 or 4 hour mash isn't out
of the question). When I get back home, the mash temperature is down to
about 145 F. Next, I heat the sparge water (10 minutes), sparge (30
minutes), begin heating runnings immediately after recirculation, bring to
boil (20 minutes), boil (90 minutes), cool/aerate/pitch yeast (30 minutes).
Total time after work: 3 hours. Done by dinnertime! If only I could find a
way to sparge while I'm at work.
Brian Moore
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 14:54:53 MST
From: dwatson@as.arizona.edu (Dan Watson)
Subject: Thanksgiving
Good afternoon fellow brewophiles,
Came upon a copy of "Early American Beverages" (John H. Brown, Bonanza
Books, 1966) the other day. This delightful history is full of
recipies for beers, wines, mixed, "temperance", and medicinal drinks
from early colonial times to about the Civil War. In the spirit of
Thanksgiving, I offer this excerpt:
"Common Beer: Two gallons of water to a large handful of hops is the
rule. A little fresh-gathered spruce or sweet ferm makes the beer
more agreeable, and you may allow a quart of wheat bran to the
mixture; then boil it two or three hours. Strain it through a seive,
and stir in, while the liquor is hot, a teacup of molasses to every
gallon. Let it stand till lukewarm, pour it into a clean barrel and
add good yeast, a pint, if the barrel is nearly full; shake it well
together; it will be fit for use the next day.
The Way To Live Well, 1849"
How's that for turnaround time! of course there were better
brewers around too:
"English Beer, Strong: Malt 1 peck; coarse brown sugar 6 lbs.; hops 4 oz.;
good yeast 1 tea-cup; if you have not malt, take a little over 1 peck
of barley, (twice the amount of oats will do, but are not as good,)and
put into an oven after the bred is drawn, or into a stove oven. and
steam the moisture from them. Grind coarsely.
Now pour upon the ground malt 3 1/2 gals. of water at 170 or 172
degrees of heat. The tub in which you scald the malt should have a
false bottom... bored with gimlet holes... to hold back the malt meal.
When the water is poured on, stir them well, and let it stand 3 hours,
and draw off by a faucet; put in 7 gals. more of water at 180 to 182
degrees ; stir it well, and let it stand two hours and draw it off.
Then put in a gallon or two more of cold water, stir it well and draw
it off; you should have 5 or 6 gals. (sic) Put the 6 lbs. of coarse
brown sugar in an equal amount of water; mix with the wort and boil 1
1/2 to 2 hours with the hops; you should have eight gals. when boiled.
When cooled to 80 degrees put in the yeast, and let work 18 to 20
hours, covered with a sack; use sound iron hooped kegs or porter
bottles, bung or cork tight, and in two weeks it will be good sound
beer, and will keep a long time; and for persons of a weak habit of
body, and especially females, 1 glass of this with their meals is far
better than tea or coffee, or of all the ardent spirits in the
universe."
I'll Bet! Happy Thanksgiving Y'all.
Dan Watson
Steward Observatory
Mirror Lab
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 13:41:40 PST
From: ELQ1%Maint%HBPP@cts27.comp.pge.com
Subject: Box crates, Lids, G.L.V.M., AND Smoke
Hoppy Thanksgiving All you Brew Dudes and Gals,
A few ago one person asked about crates for beer bottles, I contacted a
local dairy and was told that the plastic crates are not for sale, I lack
blocked grey matter to steal, so I made some out of 1x8 and 1x3 pine, cost
was about $11 for material and produced 4 stout clean boxes, much cheaper
than a $15 plastic crate and a whole lot cheaper than jail. Size for 30
bottles, 12oz is 12 1/2"x 15" I.D. If any need plans, just hollar.
After fighting the lids on my plastic fermenter and disturbing the
sediment, I bought some lids from a paint store, they are NEW, HDPE, and
they hav an airtight 2 1/2" bung that is handy for checking progress and
access for racking. The lid has skirts on the side for easy removal and
installation. Cost: $2
Has anyone out there tried using the cousin of hops for flavoring or any
other value? I refer to Green Leafy Vegetable Matter, its a sick bird,
[ill-eagle] Results? I am just curious...
In HBD #1280 Ed asks about Rauchbier, hey Ed I am going to try this;
Take some apple wood from my pruning, let dry and "charcoal" in my
smoker, then add to the primary and let it perk away, just a few
briquets should have some good clean flavor to it. Any other ideas?
Ed Quier, ELQ1@maint@hbpp
not my lifestyle, just my name
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 93 09:47:08 EST
From: barling@merlin.anu.edu.au (Pat Barling)
Subject: brewmart danish style pils problem
recently I put down the above kit as per instructions (I only added
light malt extract instead of sugar), included in kit was a special
pilsner enzyme to be pitched in with yeast.
after 2 weeks I racked to a secondary, added finings and bottled
7 days later F.G. 1.006.
last night I noticed that there was a cloudy layer on the top
of every bottle, hygiene is not a problem.
any ideas? is it the enzyme? thanks in advance for any help
pat.
email suggestions to barling@merlin.anu.edu.au
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1281, 11/25/93
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