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HOMEBREW Digest #1233
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 93/09/24 00:36:57
HOMEBREW Digest #1233 Fri 24 September 1993
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Re: Barley diseases (wegeng.XKeys)
re: Barley Disease (Todd Enders - WD0BCI)
MASH TUN = LAUTER TUN (Jack Schmidling)
Columbus OH pubs (Jim Grady)
Bittering Hops (Brian R Seay )
A few questions. ("Walker John")
Soldering/brazing, etc. ("PAUL EDWARDS")
Keg Forced Carbonation Confusion (John McCaffrey)
campden/cranberries/oatmeal stout (Jonathan G Knight)
silver solder (Phil Duclos)
Fuller's water treatment (Domenick Venezia)
Lambic Cultures (Steve Jacobs)
Subscription Request (Randy Arndt)
Re: Sam Smith Hops (Paul Jasper)
Minimizing Blow-off Loss ("Anderso_A")
Usage of Silver Solder Alloys ("Palmer.John")
Keg system setup (Wayde Nie)
Speaking In Tongues (Michael Ligas)
Temperature Adjustments (Michael L. Hall)
Florida Homebrewer's Weekend (BIO)" <tillman@chuma.cas.usf.edu>
Hops sale discovered (Dion Hollenbeck)
Re: Mailing Beer/ UPS ("Pamela J. Day 7560")
Silver Solder on wort boilers (Dion Hollenbeck)
POC (Bob_McIlvaine)
Vigorous fermantation (Philip J Difalco)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 06:05:05 PDT
From: wegeng.XKeys@xerox.com
Subject: Re: Barley diseases
In HBD #1232, Tim Murray writes:
>I have heard from two different
>sources now that most of the malting barley in the midwest and upper great
>plains (Minnesota, North & South Dakota) has been damaged/destroyed this year
>due to scab. [...] I have not heard whether this
>is expected to affect price and/or supply.
I have not heard about this problem, but I do recall hearing that there is
currently about a one year surplus supply of barley in storage in the US. If
this is true, then the scab problem may not have much affect on the price of
barley.
/Don
wegeng.xkeys@xerox.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 08:35:35 -0500
From: Todd Enders - WD0BCI <enders@plains.NoDak.edu>
Subject: re: Barley Disease
In HBD #1232, MURRAYT@WSUVM1.CSC.WSU.EDU writes:
>
>In the HBD on 14 Sep 93, korz@iepubj.att.com wrote the about production of
>various malting barley varieties in the U.S. I have heard from two different
>sources now that most of the malting barley in the midwest and upper great
>plains (Minnesota, North & South Dakota) has been damaged/destroyed this year
>due to scab.
I wouldn't go so far as to say most. Local Ag. reporters have said the
damage runs in the neighborhood of 30% recently. More worrisome is the fact
that harvest is running *very* late around here due to excessive moisture.
The longer drydown times have left the remainder of the unharvested small
grain crops at risk for diseases, but I haven't heard of large losses due
to this, yet.
Malting and feed barley aren't the only things effected. The wheat
crop is also suffering from scab. This has put some of the export customers
ill at ease about purchasing wheat (cf. China).
>
> [...]
>
>The excessive rain this spring and summer in the region is to blame for
>the above-normal amounts of scab. This means that malters will likely be
>buying grain from other areas of the country, like Washington, which do not
>normally produce large amounts of malting barley. I have not heard whether
>this is expected to affect price and/or supply.
>
In the upper Great Plains, the predominant varieties of malting barley
are of the 6-row type (Morex, Larker, Robust), employed primarily by the
big industrial brewers (AB, Miller, Stroh). In fact, *very* little 2-row
is grown around here (< 5% of total), with most of the 2-row production
coming from the Northwest. If indeed maltsters are buying from other areas,
6-row malt may be in short supply. This hasn't manifested itself in higher
prices for malting barley (at least not around here). The homebrewing
market probably has little to worry about. However, I suspect the mega
breweries are at least somewhat nervous.
===============================================================================
Todd Enders - WD0BCI ARPA: enders@plains.nodak.edu
Computer Center UUCP: ...!uunet!plains!enders
Minot State University or: ...!hplabs!hp-lsd!plains!enders
Minot, ND 58701 Bitnet: enders@plains
===============================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 08:41 CDT
From: arf@genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: MASH TUN = LAUTER TUN
>From: Jim Busch <busch@daacdev1.stx.com>
>Subject: Tuns/Sparging
>First of all , Jack, mash tun != lauter tun, at least for most serious
brewers who are using any system other than single infusion or your
EasyWidgets. The objective of a mash tun is to convert starches to
fermentable sugars and dextrins. The objective of a lauter tun is extract
these fermentable sugars and dextrins without extracting tannins from the
malt husks.
Not sure of your symbolism but if "!=" means not equal, the advent of
"EasyWidgets" suggests it is time to change the definition. With an
easymasher (note lower case) installed, the mash tun becomes the lauter tun
simply by opening the spigot.
> I have brewed all grain batches in 4 different systems over the past 5
years, and no matter what the size of the lauter tun, the recirc time is in
the order of 10-15 minutes.
Is it possible that none of those four different systems was an easymasher?
It takes less than a minute with the em. Furthermore, I do not see what time
has to do with the issue. It is the volume that must be recycled that
effects the characteristics that were brought up. If a cup or two has to be
poured back into the tun, it would have little effect on anything and would
not even qualify for calling it "recirculating". If 5 gallons have to be
recirculated, it is a different ball game.
I hate to always sound like I am trying to sell something when this subject
comes up but the fact is, the easymasher has revolutionised home brewing as
anyone who has ever used one will testify to. Few of the age old problems
and concerns apply to it.
Someone asked what an easymasher is and I waited a discreet amount of time
hoping someone else would respond but as no one did, here is a brief
description. Please note that this device can be easily made from hardware
store stuff and whether you make one or buy one makes little difference to
me. That is the reason for the lower case/upper case business.
The following is taken from my article on kettle mashing and anyone wishing
the whole article can receive same via email.
BRASS
SPIGOT FEMALE
| CONNECTOR
| |
________ | |
\_____ \ | |
| | | ____
________|_|___****____|_____ COPPER TUBING
/ _______X____ ____ ____ \ /
/ / ****____| \ \ / SS SCREEN
/_/ | \ \ |
| \ \----##################
| \-----##################
-----BOTTOM------------------------------
FIG. 1
Fig. 1 shows an exploded view of the spigot and strainer. The strainer is
simply a 2 x 6 inch piece of screen, rolled into a six inch tube and clamped
to the copper tube. The last half inch is bent over itself to seal it off.
The copper tube has a double bend in it to allow it to be rotated so that the
end is right on the bottom leaving almost no wort behind. It is easily
removed for cleaning.
The spigot passes through a clearance hole drilled in the kettle and is
retained by the female connector and a washer to take up the treads and make
a tight fit.
..............
>From: franc!kstiles@woomera.att.com
>Subject: 1993 Hop Harvest
Dried weight (oz)
Variety 1992 1993
======== ======== ========
Chinook 10 1/2 5 1/2
The only hops I had in last year were Chinook but the yield on two vines went
from less than one dried ounce to about six this year. I used 50 grams in
the last 10 gallon batch and the bittering seems about what I expect from a
similar weight of commercial pellets.
js
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 10:00:26 EDT
From: Jim Grady <grady@hpangrt.an.hp.com>
Subject: Columbus OH pubs
It looks like I will be in Columbus OH next week. I would appreciate
any recommendations for pubs/brewpubs. I saw these in the publist, any
comments?
Ohio -- Columbus:
Columbus Brewing Co.
Microbrewery
Growlers Brewpub - 1380 Bethel Rd; 43220 (614)451-0108
Brewpub which is now closed
Hoster Brewing Co
Brewpub
e-mail responses please. Thanks in advance.
- --
Jim Grady |"Root beer burps don't have to be said 'Excuse me'."
grady@hp-mpg.an.hp.com | Robert Grady, age 4.75
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 09:38:02 -0500
From: Brian R Seay </G=Brian/I=R/S=Seay/O=MAC/PRMD=ALCATEL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@alcatel.aud.alcatel.com>
Subject: Bittering Hops
Subject: Time:8:28 AM
OFFICE MEMO Bittering Hops Date:9/23/93
In the spirit of "There are no stupid questions":
All of the hop oils in the lupulin glands of boiling hops are boiled away
during a 60 minute boil. The hop oils are the source of hop flavor and
aroma, so there should be no hop flavor or aroma contributed by the
boiling hops. Therefore, one ounce of Northern Brewer @ 10% alpha could
be substituted for two ounces of Willamette @ 5% alpha. The same
bitterness would be achieved and there would be no perceptable
difference in taste. Right? Probably not. Where is the flaw in my
thinking?
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
-Brian
------------------------------
Date: 23 Sep 1993 10:44:02 U
From: "Walker John" <jwalker@msmac.prc.hq.nasa.gov>
Subject: A few questions.
1. Does anyone know of an outlet on the east coast for Upper Canada beers?
2. Are there any vendors selling 7 oz. brown bottles.
3. Are there any publications of old recipes of American beers? There are a few
great books for English beers, but I have not seen one for the US. Also, if
anyone has old recipes, either from family or professional brewers, I would
love to see them.
John Walker
jwalker@prc.hq.nasa.gov
------------------------------
Date: 23 Sep 93 07:00:00 EST
From: "PAUL EDWARDS" <8260PE@indy.navy.mil>
Subject: Soldering/brazing, etc.
To add my couple of pence worth to the soldering discussion:
Those who suggest that brazing is the way to go are on the right track.
Soldering is a much lower temperature process and doesn't provide
nearly the strength that brazing does.
I've successfully brazed fittings on SS pots using "Safety-Silv 1200" rod.
The manufacturer, J. W. Harris, says its suitable for food processing
equipment. The exact metallurgic composition escapes me, but the major
components are silver and copper, with a small amount of zinc and a tiny
bit of tin. I've never experienced haze problems or metallic off-flavors
in beers brewed in the pots with this braze. Flux is boric acid, I believe,
and comes off with hot water and scrubbing with a wire brush.
I've used Safety-Silv 1200 to braze numerous bicycle frames, without a joint
failure, so it provides a fairly strong joint. I use either Mapp gas with
a Turbo head or one of those propane/oxygen setups from the h/w store. As
you probably can guess the brazing rod melts in the 1200 deg F range.
I've read that prolonged heating of SS above 1200-1400 degrees can cause
it to become brittle, so be careful. I'd suggest practicing on the
portion of the keg you've cut off.
Whatever brazing rod you choose, make sure it has no lead and
*** NO CADMIUM ***. Cadmium fumes will kill quicker than you can say
"Rheinheitsgebot".
One last thing, I wouldn't trust a brazed joint to be "sanitary" in the
same sense that professionally welded and ground would be, so I wouldn't
use this method on fermenters and the like. Just on Hot liquor tanks,
mash-tuns and boilers.
One final thing, Silver braze flows like water when it reaches liquidus,
and won't fill gaps of more than .001 or so, in my experience. Make
sure you have a good tight joint before lighting up that torch...
-- Paul Edwards
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 8:55:28 PDT
From: John McCaffrey <johnmc@brooktree.com>
Subject: Keg Forced Carbonation Confusion
Boy, am I confused. I setup my kegging system about a week and a half
ago and had problems getting enough carbonation/head. I used the method
outlined in Cliff Tanner's Braukunst catalog and after 3 days, my beer
seemed to be carbonated OK but had little or no head. Since then, I
have researched this further and found that there is no consistency
whatsoever regarding the temperatures and pressures needed for both
force carbonating and dispensing. Can anyone shed some light on this?
Here are the various methods I've uncovered.....
Braukunst Method:
Chill beer to your liking (40 degrees), determine how carbonated you
want it (2.25 atmospheres for ales, 2.75 atm for lagers), look up your
beer temp and carbonation (in atm) on the big chart and determine the
saturation pressure needed to carbonate (my Red Ale came out to 9.5 psi
at 40 degrees), pressurize to that pressure and let sit for 2-3 days,
dispense at 2-3 psi GREATER than the carbonating pressure.
Charlie P. Method (from TNCJOHB):
Chill beer (40 degrees), pressurize to 25-30 psi, let sit for two
days (or shake vigorously for 5-10 min), then dispense at 5 psi.
Williams Brewing Supply method (from mail order catalog):
Chill beer (no temp specified), pressurize (no pressure specified) and
wait FIVE days, no dispense pressure specified
Bob Clark's Method (from HBD Archives 6/7/93):
Chill beer (no temp specified), pressurize to 30 psi, wait 3-4 days.
Then dispense at 8-10 psi.
Mark Parshall's method (from HBD Archives 6/3/93):
Chill beer (40 degrees), pressurize to 25-30 psi, let sit for 3-5 days,
lower regulator to 10 psi to dispense (he says this generates too much head).
Mark Parshall's friend's method (from HBD Archives 6/3/93):
Chill beer (40 degrees), pressurize to 40-50 psi, shake vigorously for
15 minutes, no dispense pressure specified.
HELP! What's a kegger to do?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 10:57:55 -0500 (cdt)
From: Jonathan G Knight <KNIGHTJ@AC.GRIN.EDU>
Subject: campden/cranberries/oatmeal stout
I'm a couple of days behind in my digest reading. I suppose you could say
that I am suffering from indigestion.
Anyway, in #1231 Aaaron Morris recommends Campden tablets in the blowoff
bucket. What does the campden do? I've never heard of this.
In this same issue, Robert Kaye asks about cranberry ale. I have a recipe at
home which I haven't tried yet, but it was posted to the HBD a year or so ago
I think. The author recommended putting frozen cranberries in the pot at the
end of the boil - incidentally, helping the cooling along - and letting them
sit for awhile, then racking the wort off the berries and break material.
Anyone else tried this?
And finally, Jim Graham asks about Oatmeal Stout. Jim, if you are an extract
brewer, try William's Oatmeal Dark extract. I used it once and was real
pleased with it. If you're not an extract brewer, well, then you certainly
don't want MY advice! I usually follow Al K.'s advice and just do single
stage for ales, especially dark ones, unless I am dry-hopping.
Jonathan Knight
Grinnell, Iowa
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 10:08:51 MDT
From: pjd@craycos.com (Phil Duclos)
Subject: silver solder
Let's get one thing straight, silver solder is not your typical
plumbing or electrical solder. It does not contain lead, although it may
contain other undesirable metals, and it melts at ~1100 F. It does not
contain tin either. It is used for refrigeration, precious metals, etc...
where strength is required. It comes in many melting points and mixtures and
is more like brazing than soldering. It requires significant heat, and on
stainless, that means an oxy/acetylene torch. Joints are strong, but tend
to be brittle and because of that it may be unsuitable for the roughhouse
brewery environment. It does not meet sanitation requirement per typical
health codes. The technique is difficult to get right so its not for a
beginner to welding. All that said, it is cheaper than TIG and may be a
good choice for someone properly equipped and trained. A nice TIG job on
a brew kettle should only cost $10->20 so, its not unreasonable to have a
really nice job. Trading for beer might be possible too. I plan to add a
sight tube and thermometer to my hot liquor tank and I expect to pay almost
as much for the fittings as the welding job. Its not all that cheap, but it
sure looks nice!
phil duclos
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 09:55:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia@zgi.com>
Subject: Fuller's water treatment
A while ago I sent out some requests to a few English Ale Brewers,
most notably Fuller Smith & Turner P.L.C., for information about
their water treatments. Hey, it was worth a shot. Fuller's
Brewing Director, R.H. Drury, responded thusly:
"I am not able to tell you the mineral content of our Brewing
water for commercial reasons. Suffice to say it is not the
typical London analysis which is too high in carbonates and
is therefore "burtonised" to some extent."
In light of the most recent issue of Brewing Techniques and Karl King's
article on water treatment which shows that "burtonized" water is much
higher in carbonates than London water:
Ca CO3 SO4 Mg Na Cl
------------------------------------------
Burton 275 260 450 40 25 35
London 90 125 40 5 15 20
What is Mr. Drury talking about? Does he mean that Fuller's water is
"...therefore "burtonised" to some extent" or does he mean London water?
It may be important to note that Fuller's Brewery is in London, and perhaps
he is switching names (Burton <==> London). On the other hand, in
Fuller's Cask Conditioned ESB I detect a front of the tongue and behind the
teeth sharpness, a tang, almost a mild "furriness". High sulfate?
Am I making too much of water treatment?
Since I mentioned the most recent issue of Brewing Techniques, I'd just
like to say that I'm very impressed with the publication. I actually
found 3 out of 4 of the features and articles of compelling and
immediate interest (at this time I'm not charged up about rye), even so
I found the rye article well written and full of good information. (This
contrasts greatly with articles about labels). I am particularly looking
forward to the next issue's "Practical Guidelines for Cask Conditioning
Domenick Venezia
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
venezia@zgi.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 13:18:10 EDT
From: steve@garnet.spawar.navy.mil (Steve Jacobs)
Subject: Lambic Cultures
I'm interested in brewing some p-Lambics, can anyone point me to a source
(preferably non-commercial) of the following cultures:
brettanomyces lambicus
brettanomyces bruxellensis
pediococcus damnosus
Thanks,
Steve Jacobs
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 13:44:59 -0400
From: arndtr@acs.bu.edu (Randy Arndt)
Subject: Subscription Request
New subscription to arndtr@acs.bu.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 10:43:53 -0700
From: paul@rational.com (Paul Jasper)
Subject: Re: Sam Smith Hops
On 22 Sep, 7:56, Michael Inglis wrote:
> Subject: Sam Smith Hops
>
> Question: Does anyone know what hop variety is used in Samual Smiths
> Pale Ale for flavor/aroma? I think it may be the same as is used in
> Beck's. Saaz perhaps? Email is fine for answers. Thanks.
>
>-- End of excerpt from Michael Inglis
"The European Beer Almanac" by Roger Protz lists the ingredients for
Samuel Smith's Old Brewery Pale Ale as "Pale ale and crystal malts.
Fuggles and Goldings hops. 30 units of bitterness. Top fermenting
yeast." ABV 5%; degrees Plato 12; OG 1048. It is fermented in
Yorkshire stone squares.
- --
- -- Paul Jasper
- -- RATIONAL
- -- Object-Oriented Products
- --
------------------------------
Date: 23 Sep 93 13:39:00 EST
From: "Anderso_A" <Anderso_A@hq.navsea.navy.mil>
Subject: Minimizing Blow-off Loss
The following attachments were included with this message:
__________________________________________________________________
TYPE : FILE
NAME : BLOW_OFF
__________________________________________________________________
>In HBD #1231 Eugene gives the following schematic for a blow-off
>setup.
_________
//-------\\
_||||_ ||
/ || \ ||
/________\ ||
| | ||
| | ||
| BREW | /||\
| | |-||-|
| | |H2O |
|________| |____|
>I used such a system recently for a OG 1054 dry stout and lost one
>gallon of brew during the blow-off period. The fermentation was
>carried out at 68F using the new Red Star Ale yeast. The tubing I'm
>using between the two containers is the standard 3/8" (ID) siphon tubing.
>Does anyone experienced with this technique have any tricks for
>minimizing the amount of fluid loss?
>Chris
Sure, switch to a 1" ID plastic hose and move the bucket of water
to a height about 2 feet above the top of the carboy. Most of the
beer kicked out during the blow-off period can't make it out and
falls back into the carboy. I use this system for any beer with an
OG of at least 1.050. Lower strength beers tend not to kick out
as much fluid.
Cheers,
Andy A
------------------------------
Date: 23 Sep 1993 11:39:04 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer#d#john@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Usage of Silver Solder Alloys
Hey Group,
I noticed the post on using Silver based Brazing (soldering)
alloys. This is a good alternative to welding of fittings.
In addition, it allows the use of copper tubing and fittings
into the stainless steel tanks. There is the potential for some
galvanic corrosion of the copper in preference to the silver.
While I cannot predict the rate, I think it will be quite small;
small cathode, big anode, etc. Be sure to use a flux for Stainless
Steel before attempting to braze or it won't stick. Use a slightly
reducing flame and type 3A flux.
Silver Solder does not contain lead, but some of the alloys
contain Cadmium, which is worse. I don't know if it will leach out,
but if it does, it will cause heavy metal poisening. The American
Welding Society alloy designations are listed below, don't use
the alloys containing Cadmium.
Here's the table.
Table of Silver-based brazing (soldering) alloys
AWS Composition(a), %
spec. Ag Cu Zn Others
BAg-l 44.0-46.0 14.0-16.0 14.0-18.0 23.0-25.0 Cd
BAg-la 49.0-51.0 14.5-16.5 14.5-18.5 17.0-19.0 Cd
BAg-2 34.0-36.0 25.0-27.0 19.0-23.0 17.0-19.0 Cd
BAg-2a 29.0-31.0 26.0-28.0 21.0-25.0 19.0-21.0 Cd
BAg-3 49.0-51.0 14.5-16.5 13.5-17.5 16 Cd, 3 Ni
BAg-4 39.0-41.0 29.0-31.0 26.0-30.0 1.5-2.5 Ni
BAg-5 44.0-46.0 29.0-31.0 23.0-27.0 ...
BAg-6 49.0-51.0 33.0-35.0 14.0-18.0 ...
BAg-7 55.0-57.0 21.0-23.0 15.0-19.0 4.5-5.5 Sn
BAg-8 71.0-73.0 Rem ... ...
BAg-8a 71.0-73.0 Rem ... 0.25-0.50 Li
BAg-13 53.0-55.0 Rem 4.0-6.0 0.5-1.5 Ni
BAg-13a 55.0-57.0 Rem ... 1.5-2.5 Ni
BAg-18 59.0-61.0 Rem ... 10 Sn, .025 max P
BAg-l9 92.0-93.0 Rem ... 0.15-0.30 Li
BAg-20 29.0-31.0 37.0-39.0 30.0-34.0 ...
BAg-21 62.0-64.0 27.5-29.5 ... 6 Sn, 2.5 Ni
(a) Total maximum allowable impurities in each alloy is 0.15%.
AWS Solidus Liquidus Brazing
spec. temp. temp. temp.
F C F C F C
BAg-l 1125 607 1145 618 1145-1400 618-760
BAg-la 1160 627 1175 635 1175-1400 635-760
BAg-2 1125 607 1295 702 1295-1550 702-843
BAg-2a 1125 607 1310 710 1310-1550 710-843
BAg-3 1170 632 1270 688 1270-1500 688-816
BAg-4 1240 671 1435 779 1435-1650 779-899
BAg-5 1250 677 1370 743 1370-1550 743-843
BAg-6 1270 688 1425 774 1425-1600 774-871
BAg-7 1145 618 1205 652 1205-1400 652-760
BAg-8 1435 779 1435 779 1435-1650 779-899
BAg-8a 1410 766 1410 766 1410-1600 766-871
BAg-13 1325 718 1575 857 1575-1775 857-968
BAg-13a 1420 771 1640 893 1600-1800 871-982
BAg-18 1115 602 1325 718 1325-1550 718-843
BAg-l9 1435 779 1635 891 1610-1800 877-982
BAg-20 1250 677 1410 766 1410-1600 766-871
BAg-21 1275 691 1475 802 1475-1650 802-899
Notes: Ag is Silver, Cu is Copper, Zn is Zinc, Cd is Cadmium,
Ni is Nickel, Sn is Tin, Li is Lithium, and P is Phosporus.
Cadmium is toxic when it gets into the blood stream and causes
heavy metal poisening, similar to lead, but worse. While I am
not sure that it will leach out of the soldered joint like lead,
it might, don't use those alloys.
Solidus is the temperature when the alloy starts to melt upon
heating, Liquidus is the temperature when it is completely melted.
Or conversly, Liquidus is when it starts to solidify on cooling,
Solidus is when it is completely solid.
John Palmer
MDA-SSD M&P
Support Space Station!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 12:48:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Wayde Nie <u9106857@mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca>
Subject: Keg system setup
In HBD 1232, Cecil Clontz Sez:
<I recently aquired a 15 1/2 Gallon Brewery keg (The kind your local beverage
<shop sells beer in and keeps your $50.00 deposit til you return). This Keg
<uses a tap that pushes down and turns. I have several questions.
My housemates and I have been using a CO2 charged, brewers retail
style kegging system for almost a year now and don't know how we ever got
along without it. This sounds, from your description, to be exactly what
you want. We like this setup as opposed to the cornelius (SP?) one
mainly because it can be used for homebrew and we can dispense commercial
swill for our parties. This leaves our precious brew for us!
First of all, for your homebrew, I'd find a more suitable sized
keg. Here in Canada, Brewer's Retail offers a "cylinder" (22 liters)
which is roughly 5 Gal for $20 deposit. We have found this size to be
great for our single batches. Save your 15 1/2 Gal keg to make a good brew
kettle. (As per any of the suggestions in the HBD archives)
<1) Where can I get a tap (other than rent one and don't return it ).
All of our equipment came from a co called Johnson Enterprises in
Illinois. They were very helpful and supplied us with exactly what we
needed to convert an old fridge. (I have no affiliation with Johnson, just
a satisfied customer, BlahBlahBlahBlah....)
for a basic fridge conversion you will need:
i) A CO2 cylinder, ours is a 20lb tank and thats PLENTY.
It has been on line for almost a year and is still
quite full.
ii) A CO2 regulator, IMHO a 2 gauge reg. is comforting and
really only a few bucks more. (one gauge for tank
presure (optional) the other is for line presure (a
must)).
iii) A "Sankey" coupler. (the twist and push down type)
this is what connects to your keg. It has two threaded
connectors, one for beer out :-) and the other for CO2
in.
iv) Faucet assembly. This is the actual tap with all the
necessary hardware for mounting. (fridge door, under
the bar, beside your bed, etc...8*))
v) Proper pressure hoses and clamps to hook the whole
thing together.
Except for the CO2 tank and fridge, we got the entire setup UPS'ed
across the border and to our front door in about a week for less than $200
Canadian. (Worth *EVERY* penny).
<2) can I rig this keg to use CO2 and use it instead of bottling.
Yep, we do this routinely! Inside the "beer out" hole of the
sankey you'll find a small rubber "pea" with acts as a backflow valve. If
you carefully poke this pea out (remember, it has to go back in later!) you
can siphon your beer into the keg through this hole. The connectors on
the Sankey seem to have odd threads (at least we can't seem to find a
match locally). Therefore, we'd recommend buying an extra female
beer line connector to hook your siphoning hose to the sankey. To carbonate,
put the full keg under about 30 - 40 lbs of pressure from your CO2 tank and
shake like mad (the keg, not you) for about 1-2 min. Repeat this in another
couple of hours and let the keg sit over night under this presure. The next
day, bleed off the excess keg pressure, reduce your CO2 reg. to about
10-15 lbs, and enjoy a *Sediment free* draught homebrew! (**This requires
NO extra sugar at kegging time**) Don't be distressed if the first few draws
are mostly foam, this is normal. If the foaming continues, play with the
reg pressure. This is an outline of our process, others may have slightly
different ones, but this works well for us.
<3) If I can use a regular tap, how do I get the beer carbonated since with
<oxygen pumped in it will go bad in a few days.
This setup uses CO2 and a properly cared for keg will last for
quite some time. (Can't give you solid dates, ours are alway gone within a
couple weeks...(Hick!) Hope all this helps, if you want us to clarify
anything then feel free to EMail us back directly.
PS. here's there phone number.
Johnson Enterprises, INC,
Rockford, Illinios
(800)435-6950
\\\
(o o)
- ---------------------------------ooO--(*)--Ooo--------------------------------
\|||/ | Wayde Nie, u9106857@McMail.CIS.McMaster.CA
<o.O> bleah! |
( v ) snort! | "I stayed up all night playing poker with Tarot cards...
--"-"-- | I got a full house and four people died!"
*Bill The Owl* | Steven Wright
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 15:25:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Michael Ligas <ligas@mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca>
Subject: Speaking In Tongues
===========================================================================
The following list was compiled by schuyler@rest.tasc.com. I'm hoping
that you folks will enjoy it and send me additions and/or corrections. It
might be best if comments were mailed directly to me to avoid a potential
avalanche of posts to the digest. I'll update the list and re-post it when
replies have subsided. Take care. - ligas@mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca
===========================================================================
TRAVELLERS' VOCABULARY LIST
Afrikaans: oke
Albanian: birre" (e" = e-umlaut, pronounced approx. schwa)
Arabic: bira (birra)
Armenian: garejure (transliteration)
Basque: garagarnoa
Breton: bier
Bulgarian: bira
Burmese: biya (transliteration)
Cantonese: be1jau2 (1 = high tone; 2 = high falling tone)
Catalan: cervesa
Croatian: pivo
Czech: pivo
Danish: o/l (o/ = fronted o sound, written o with slash)
Dutch: bier
English: beer
Esperanto: biero
Estonian: o~lu (o~ = o-tilde, pronounced short unrounded 'o')
Finnish: olut, (slang: kalja; actually other beverage)
Flemish: het bier
French: la bie`re
Frisian: bier
German: das Bier
Greek: mpi'ra (transliteration) ('mp' is pronounced 'b')
Greenlandic: immiaarag
Hausa: fita
Hawaiian: pia or bia
Hebrew: birah (bira)
Hindi: biar (transliteration)
Hokkien: bit3 djiu4
Hungarian: so~r (o~ = short-o-umlaut; s = "sh"-sound)
Icelandic: bjo'r (o' = o-acute accent)
Indonesian: bir
Irish: beoir
Italian: la birra
Japanese: biiru/bieru (r is sort of between USA 'r' and Eng. 'l')
Korean: maekju (transliteration)
Latin: cervisia
Latvian: alu
Lithuanian: alus
Luxemburgois: be'ier (e' = e-acute accent)
Madagassian: labiera (yes, one word)
Malay: bir
Maltese: birra
Mandarin: pi2jiu3 (2 = rising tone; 3 = fall/rise tone)
Nepali: biyar (transliteration) (from phrase book)
Nepali: chang (from person who's been there)
Norwegian: o/l (o/ = fronted o, written o with slash)
Papiamentu: serbes
Persian: ab-e-jow (a = slightly rounded; j = as in 'juice')
Pidgin (Papua): bia
Polish: piwo ('w' is pronounced 'v')
Portuguese: a cerveja
Quechua: sirwisa
Raeto-romanian: bi'era (i' = i-acute accent)
Rumanian: bere
Russian: pivo
Samoan: pia
Scots Gaelic: beo`ir (o` = o-grave accent)
Serbian: pivo
Singalese: bire (transliteration)
Slovakian: pivo
Slovenian: pivo
Spanish: la cerveza, la birra (Central America)
Swahili: pombe
Swedish: o"l (o" = o with two dots ["med tva prickor"])
Tagalog: beer
Tasmanian: beer
Thai: bia
Tibetan: chang (transliteration)
Turkish: bira
Ukrainian: pivo
Welsh: cwrw ("w" is pronounced approx. as "u" in "put")
Yiddish: bier (transliteration)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 13:30:53 MDT
From: mlh@cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall)
Subject: Temperature Adjustments
Kieran O'Connor asks about whether he should change his mashing
temperature due to problems in measuring the temperature. I'm not quite
sure which of the following questions he was asking, so I'll answer
both.
1. "I checked the calibration of both my Thermometers ... my bi-metal
probe type thermometer was off by 4 degrees F."
For this case you do need to mash with the corrected temperature.
For instance, if your thermometer reads 4 degrees high and you
want to mash at 154 F, then you should make sure that your
thermometer reads 158 F. In other words, you should correct the
temperature from your thermometer to get the real temperature.
2. "I boiled it in distilled water and calibrated it. At the school I
work in--in Cortland NY--we are at 1000 ft elevation, so my
science teacher friend said to calibrate it to 98C for boiling --
given the altitude."
I'm a little more familiar with this one, since I live at 7300 ft!
If you're not boiling the water, then the temperature you want
doesn't change. In other words, if you want to mash at 154 F, you
heat the water until your corrected thermometer reading is 154 F,
regardless of altitude. The difference with altitude comes in
when you boil. Since you're boiling at a lower temperature, you
might want to boil longer to get the same effect. Our boiling
temperature is around 198 F, so there's quite a difference here.
Hope this helps,
Mike Hall, Thermohydraulic nut
Los Alamos Atom Mashers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 15:26:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Tim Tillman (BIO)" <tillman@chuma.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: Florida Homebrewer's Weekend
Hello HBDers!
I am trying to arrange a homerbrewer's get together in Florida. I invision an
overnight camping (not mandatory) kind of event. There might be a seminar or
two, beer tasting, introduction to brewing for beginners, venders. What else?
If you are in Florida and are interested in helping in anyway please Email me.
Tim Tillman
tillman@chuma.cas.usf.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 07:55:59 PDT
From: megatek!hollen@uunet.UU.NET (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Hops sale discovered
Hi fellow brewers -
I just placed an order for some hops and much to my surprise
was informed that there was a sale on to move out this year's crop and
make way for next year's. The details are as follows:
Order from HopTech Email to mgaretz@hoptech.com. Only orders received
over Email and mentioning the HBD discount qualify for a 25% discount
on U.S. grown WHOLE hops only.
I have no affiliation with HopTech other than being a satisfied
customer.
Dion Hollenbeck (619)455-5590x2814 Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California ucsd!megatek!hollen
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 15:46:00 EST
From: "Pamela J. Day 7560" <DAY@A1.TCH.HARVARD.EDU>
Subject: Re: Mailing Beer/ UPS
I have found that as far a UPS is concerned, as long as
they don't know it's beer, they don't care. Even if they find out
that it's beer they really don't care. My mother (being totally
without a clue that she shouldn't do this) sent my brother in
Kentucky a case of Sam Adams via UPS. When he got it, he called to
thank her and ask why the she bothered to repack it and why was one
bottle missing. It turns out that a bottle broke during shipment
and UPS repackaged it and sent it on it's merry way, no questions
asked.
Oh well...
Pam
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 13:15:35 PDT
From: megatek!hollen@uunet.UU.NET (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Silver Solder on wort boilers
>>>>> On Tue, 21 Sep 1993 14:57:13 -0400 (EDT),
Wayde Nie <u9106857@mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca> said:
Wayde> Hi All,
Wayde> What is the collective net wisdom on using silver solder to
Wayde> install the fittings into to base of a converted keg style boiler. I
Wayde> would think that soldering would be less of an undertaking than
Wayde> paying someone to weld SS.
Wayde Nie, u9106857@McMail.CIS.McMaster.CA
Having done this, I can testify with some authority. Silver soldering
SS works, but is *EXTREMELY* difficult to do correctly. The *MINIMUM*
amount of heat possible to get the solder to flow should be used.
Heat should not be applied for more than about 1 minute at a time,
after which the area should be cooled *IMMEDIATELY* with a sopping wet
rag. The best flux to use is the white paste kind which comes in the
white 3" diam. plastic jar with a blue top (I forget the name). Use
the flux sparingly. If you see that your solder is flowing in one
place, but not all the places which you are trying to solder, you have
oxidized that non-flowing area. *DO NOT APPLY MORE HEAT* to that
area, cause that is our normal reaction when we see lack of flow.
This is exactly the wrong thing to do. Stop, cool it off, clean it
off well and start over again. If you overheat SS, it will become
brittle.
I know about all of what I say since I did all the wrong things. When
I was done, the joints between the keg and the pipe nipple were
strong, but they still leaked. Well, so we went to clean things up
an in the process of melting off the excess solder, a piece of keg as
big as my little finger nail dropped out of the keg wall. It had
cracked and now I had a large hole to fill in as well. Finally
changed over to bronze brazing rod and got the job redone and no
leaks.
Bottom line, get it welded. Don't be cheap and foolish. Also, when
you get it welded, make sure the welder cools it immediately. If you
do the welding and leave it to cool naturally, it will heat the
surrounding area for more than the critical 5 minutes and you will get
brittle SS again.
Dion Hollenbeck (619)455-5590x2814 Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California ucsd!megatek!hollen
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 16:57:08 EDT
From: Bob_McIlvaine@keyfile.com
Subject: POC
Subject: Silver Solder
Silver solder can be nasty to solder and can be hazardous
to your health if you get the wrong stuff. For your health's
sake, get the kind that is cadmium free, for your yeast's
health get low, low lead content. The simplest flux is plain
old borax, the chemical not the soap :-) You can get the
solder and the flux at your local welding supply, consult
them about the solder for food preparation vessels,
melt point of at least 1200 degreesF. The flux you can get
at hardware stores, drug stores (sometimes), and your
local supplier of chemicals for school science labs. The
actual soldering is tricky, burnish the stainless steel
parts, mix the borax powder with water and apply to the
joint, bring entire joint up to temperature, the borax will
melt. Don't get the joint to hot (easier said than done, with
stainless steel), to hot and the solder will ball up and roll
right off. Some old timers will wrap the solder wire around
the joint and heat indirectly until the solder sweats into the
joint making a very nice fillet. The key is to not oxidixe the
surface that the flux has cleaned, direct heat from a flame
WILL oxidise.
P.S. A welder with mig or tig capabilities will take about 10
minutes to weld the joint with Stainless but will probably
charge an hour minimum, typically $30 to $40 per hour.
Regards,
Mac
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 14:13:17 -0400
From: Philip J Difalco <sxupjd@anubis.fnma.COM>
Subject: Vigorous fermantation
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end
- ---
email: sxupjd@fnma.com (NeXT Mail Okay)
Philip DiFalco, Senior SomethingOrOther, Advanced Technology
FannieMae, 3900 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington, DC 22016 (202)752-2812
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1233, 09/24/93
*************************************
-------
