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HOMEBREW Digest #1248
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 93/10/15 00:35:10
HOMEBREW Digest #1248 Fri 15 October 1993
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Stuck Fermentation? (Chris Seiders)
Beer in Anaheim, CA (JIM MCNUTT)
Fast, Cool Sparges and Malt Charactor (larryba)
rotten egg smell in fermentation (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570)
GABF Size (npyle)
Re: William Younger's No. 3 (andrewb6)
Re: flaked Maize (TSAURET)
beware of glycogen depletion (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570)
filters (Chuck Mryglot X6024)
Re: William Younger #3 (Paul Jasper)
Alcohol Percentages ("Moore, Brian")
carboy disasters ("Goodman, John")
Addresses for COPS (Kieran O'Connor)
Re: low O.G. readings and boiling wort question ("Robert K. Toutkoushian")
Re: counter pressure filler (was Kegging systems) (jay marshall)
request (robl)
Handles for 6.5 gal carboys (Hal Laurent)
Hard Cider Recipe? ("Pamela J. Day 7560")
Chris Seiders' article (Kevin O'Connor)
Chullhee C Cho cho@MINERVA.cis.yale.edu (Mike Zentner)
Mini Kegs (Josh Stillerman)
COPS and AHA (Russ Gelinas)
RE:iodophor & yuppies (Jim Busch)
Idophor question (Eric M. Mrozek)
Brewpub review ("Mark S. Nelson")
The Great Boogy Conundrum (ROWLEY)
More on the GABF ("CANNON_TOM")
Subject: Mashout revisited and pH (Ulick Stafford)
gravity change for 1 pound dme in 6 gallons (Mark Garti)
Mashout revisited and pH (Ulick Stafford)
Eisbock (Scott Stihler (USGS analyst))
Re: Beer Drinks (Shawn Nunley)
mashout (chris campanelli)
re: William Younger's No.3 (again) (andrewb6)
hemlock and cranberries (David Atkins)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1993 09:25 -0600 (MDT)
From: Chris Seiders <SEIDERS@HANDI.MED.UTAH.EDU>
Subject: Stuck Fermentation?
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 93 11:19:41 EST
From: JIM MCNUTT <INJM%MCGILLB.BITNET@VM1.MCGILL.CA>
Subject: Beer in Anaheim, CA
I'll be attending a conference in Anaheim, CA during the middle
of November. Does anyone have any suggestions for brew-pubs or
good types of beer for that area. Please email directly to my
email address. Thanks.
Jim McNutt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 93 11:29:09 -0400
From: polstra!larryba@uunet.UU.NET
Subject: Fast, Cool Sparges and Malt Charactor
Folks following my postings (sparse as they are) will note that I am a
proponant of fast sparges. I always let my sparges run as fast as
they can and I typically get very good extract yields from my mashes.
My second to last batch was 20 min for 11 gal at ~34 pt/lb/gal
I also typically skip mash out maybe heating the mash to 158-162 just
to maintain a mash bed temp of 140-150 and to force conversion if the
iodine test is not negative after 20-30 minutes.
Once, a year or two ago, I asked the forums if there were any negative
issues w/regard to fast sparges. I got no responses. Well, at the last
Seattle Brews Brothers meeting I was talking with a brewer about malt
charactor and mashing techniques. Many brew brothers do decotion and
modified decotion mashing claiming improved malt charactor. This guy's
claim was that fast, cool sparges produce low malt charactor. He said
that he always runs a very hot sparge (180 or higher) because that
husky graininess makes for more malt charactor.
This guy also suggested an experiment for me to do to test out his ideas:
next time I begin to lauter a 10 gal batch, to set aside 2 gallons of
mash and bring it to a rolling boil before adding it back into the lauter
tun. I guess this a way of simulating a decotion mash and the carmelization
that occurs during the boils. He claimed that the change in malt and
physical charactoristics of the mash would be obvious as I brought the 2
gallons to a boil.
The question: What do folks think of this theory and the experiment? Am I
likely to just end up with a bad starch haze and a puckery beer? Will I
be safe from a starch haze due to the low temps of my lauter and the fact
that I rarely mash for more than 40-50 minutes (two/three step infusion
mash) there should be plenty of enzyme activity in the mash?
- Larry Barello
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1993 10:39:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: tony@spss.com (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570)
Subject: rotten egg smell in fermentation
This is approaching Frequently Asked Question statuts on HBD, so
here's a brief explanation.
The rotten egg smell is hydrogen sulfide -- H2S. Just-fermented
green beer contains detectable levels of hydrogen sulfide, and
the threshold value for this compound in beer is in the 5 - 10
ppb range. Hydrogen sulfide is present in wort, but is driven
off during the kettle boil. Sulfur-containing volatiles, including
hydrogen sulfide, are formed by some strains of yeast during
primary fermentation. The level of hydrogen sulfide is reduced
during beer maturation, and is presumed to take place as a result
of the scrubbing action of carbon dioxide bubbles when produced
in a beer fermentation. In conclusion, reduction of H2S occurs
during secondary fermentation, and is therefore one reason among
many to consider doing a secondary fermentation.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 93 9:40:38 MDT
From: npyle@n33.stortek.com
Subject: GABF Size
Chris asks whether the GABF equates to the AHA nationals for the pros. I don't
know that much about the AHA, but I think the GABF is open to all professional
brewers, regardless of affiliations. Many brewers there are Institute for
Brewing Studies members, but not anywhere near all of them. This thing has
gotten so big, though that it is difficult to get any idea of what's available.
I would like to see several regional ABF's and have the GABF an invitation-only
affair. The invites would go to the regional winners in each category. That
way the regionals would be of a more reasonable size and so would the GABF
(used as a national run-off competition). I went to the Saturday afternoon
tasting and back again Saturday night, and I don't think I made a dent in the
total number of beers there (nor would I try). Does anyone else think this
thing is a leviathan? Dr. Fix, I believe you had one of the judging jobs,
which should give you some insight into the organization. Is my idea feasible,
possible, or a pipe dream?
norm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 93 12:16:00 EDT
From: andrewb6@aol.com
Subject: Re: William Younger's No. 3
Ah, that brew of brews, that nectar of nectars, that heavenly concoction
worthy of any man's affection.
No. 3 is the beer for which I yearn. You're right it is an British brew,
made by William Younger which is part of the Scottish and Newcastle group. I
believe it is still made in Edinburgh, Scotland, and is typically consumed
only in Scotland and the North of England.
I must admit in my younger days (not too long ago) I consumed a cask or two
of this beer, but as is typical of so many Britons, we spent many hours
enjoying the brew and little time analyzing and pondering it's complexity.
In other words I can't give you too much in the way of a description.
Commonly thought of as a bitter, it's somewhere between a bitter and a brown
ale. At first glance it looks black, and when served properly it's topped by
a thin layer of dense creamy head. However when held up to the light (even
in it's customary pint glass) it reveals a beautiful rich, ruby red color.
It is certainly malty, but not sweet, and is balanced well by bitterness. As
I recall it has an OG of about 1058. Michael Jackson gave it a poor review
in his last book, and mentioned that it had a cult following. This last fact
I can certainly attest to. Event the casual mention of it's name would cause
a seasoned beer drinker to salivate and become glassy eyed
(much as I am now). IMHO it's a fine beer and compliments William Younger's
Scotch Ale and IPA. As far as alcohol content goes, maybe Jackson's book
will tell you, but I can't put a number to it (but from experience, nine
pints of No. 3 and you're really under the table).
I'm not so sure about your comments on "Lager Louts". This beer is as far
from being a lager as budlite is from being full-bodied. But if a football
hooligan did take to drinking this beer, I would have to consider it his one
redeeming feature.
As far as finding it on this side of the pond--good luck. Unless things have
changed in the last couple of years, No. 3 is only produced in cask form, and
they don't ship it very far (in
fact I've never seen it in the south of England). If you find out otherwise,
let me know at
all-speed.
If you need to know more I'll gladly research it for you :-) --I'm going
back home for Christmas.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1993 13:00:39 EST5EDT
From: TSAURET@Hermes.GC.PeachNet.EDU
Subject: Re: flaked Maize
Recently a I tried to add flaked maize to my wort, but I was
unable to get the maize to pass the iodine test. I followed the
instructions from THE JOY OF HOME BREWING, but after two hours gave
up trying to pass the iodine test. The beer has been in the bottles
a week now and evrything appears fine. Has anyone else run into this
problem? What did I do wrong? Thanks, Tom Sauret
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1993 14:08:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: tony@spss.com (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570)
Subject: beware of glycogen depletion
Intermittent posts to hbd have called attention to yeast
pitching rate and the consequences of underpitching. A
perhaps more serious concern is yeast vitality as measured by
yeast glycogen content.
Glycogen depletion is a consequence of long storage times,
warm storage temperatures, and number of other causes.
Pitching glycogen-depleted yeast can result in problems with
the primary fermentation and the finished beer:
- sluggish fermentation
- slow attenuation
- higher terminal gravity
- poor flocculation
- poor alcohol production
- high diacetyl
- high SO2
- high acetaldehyde
- less flavor stability and shelf life.
All the more reason to build up yeast in some starter wort
before pitching into your beer.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 93 15:38:25 EDT
From: cmryglot@disney.CV.COM (Chuck Mryglot X6024)
Subject: filters
To those who filter:
Is a 5 micron filter small enough to bother with?
5 micron filters are ease to find but I can't seem to find any
that are smaller. Sears has 5 micron filters for $4.00 each.
Is it best to use the fiber filter or the resin, or does it
matter? Also, does filtering have any effect on carbonation?
Thanks for your help.
cmryglot@aecmail.cv.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1993 12:53:23 -0700
From: paul@rational.com (Paul Jasper)
Subject: Re: William Younger #3
On 12 Oct, 9:51, Todd Jennings wrote:
> Subject: William Younger #3
>
> I have heard of a brew by the name of WILLIAM YOUNGER #3; read about it
> in a soccer magazine, actually. In the mag article, the brew is
> described as "the ruin of a good many young men". The article goes on to
> refer to the beer as the preferred brew of LAGER LOUTS, the British
> football hooligans we hear so much about.
>
> Is there anyone who can tell me what the story is with this apparently
> British beer, i.e. what is the style, and where can one get it here in
> the States(if anywhere)? I assume it's a bitter ale, but perhaps I am
> off the track here. Can't wait to find out!!
>
>-- End of excerpt from Todd Jennings
It doesn't seem very likely that "Lager Louts" would drink Youngers No. 3
(no # sign, since this meaning does not extend to the UK), it being a
dark ale. Football hooligans in general would be hard pressed to find it
outside of certain areas. It's made in Edinburgh by Scottish & Newcastle,
one of the large national brewers, but isn't commonly available in their
pubs. S&N are the brewers of McEwans Export, widely available in the US,
but I doubt that they export a keg version of No. 3 (especially as I've
only seen it in cask-conditioned form).
No. 3 is fairly rich, a little stronger than ordinary ales at OG 1043, and
if served with a head keeps it pretty well. In good condition it can be
quite delicious. I'm not sure what style I would attribute to it - it's
too strong for a dark mild and not as strongly flavored as a porter.
Bass have a range of strong canned Scottish beers popular with certain
types of soccer fan. They include Tennants Super (such beers are often
named like grades of gasoline), also known colloquially as "Doom". Since
this is also favored by drunks and winos as a quick and cheap way to get
blitzed, I wouldn't really recommend it as a fashionable new trend with
which to associate oneself. :^)
- --
- -- Paul Jasper
- -- RATIONAL
- -- Object-Oriented Products
- --
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 93 15:40:00 PDT
From: "Moore, Brian" <Moorebw@hvsmtp1.mdc.com>
Subject: Alcohol Percentages
Hello out there,
I've got a question not really about homebrew, but about beer in general.
This originally started with my desire to get more exciting microbrewed
beers here in the beer wasteland of Alabama. About the most exotic thing we
can currently buy is the Samuel Adams Boston Lager. Figuring this was a
(good) starting point, I called the local distributor and asked if they were
planning to bring in any of the other Sam Adams beers. The distributor said
they were working on getting another, the Octoberfest, but that there were
some that they could never get (the Double Bock).
According to the distributor, all beers in the state of Alabama must be less
than 4 percent alcohol (I'm not sure if this was buy weight or volume). We
have Guinness, Bass, Hofbrau, etc. I thought that Guinness and some of the
others would be higher than 4 percent.
This leads me to wonder if brewers brew different versions of beer for
different states. Does anyone out there in HBD-land have any knowledge on
this subject?
Brian Moore
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 93 15:47:00 PDT
From: "Goodman, John" <Goodmjo@hvsmtp1.mdc.com>
Subject: carboy disasters
Dick Dunn's summary of carboy handle experiences prompted me to send a
warning/bit of painful advice to all of you brewers:
> - A full carboy weighs a bunch; *any* sharp shock--regardless of whether
> a handle is involved--can break it. They are sturdy but not indestruc-
> tible, so be careful but not paranoid.
ABSOLUTELY!!
When a carboy breaks, it tends to form some pretty large shards of glass
that are capable of slashing through skin to the underlying bone quickly and
quite painlessly. Unfortunately, the repair (Read: Numerous stitches and
probing for glass slivers) involves quite a bit of pain and downtime of the
limb. I never used a carboy handle or anything similar until after my
accident a few weeks ago. Luckily, no beer was lost - just a 5 gal carboy.
Since then, I have kept my carboys in plastic milk crates - great for
transporting the full ones around (especially when wet), and they fit nicely
in my wetbulb container and chest freezer.
Be careful, don't regress to plastic if you break one, and above all - NEVER
SHOW FEAR TOWARDS THE BEER.
John Goodman
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1993 17:08:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kieran O'Connor <koconnor@mailbox.syr.edu>
Subject: Addresses for COPS
Here are addresses for COPS--one for the program creator, and one for the
local affiliate in Syracuse, NY
COPS c/o STF Productions
P.O. Box 900
Beverly Hills, CA 90213
Jeryl Jonza
Program Director, WSYT - Channel 68
1000 James St.
Syracuse, NY 13203
Thanks for the info--Rick
Kieran O'Connor
E-Mail Address: koconnor@mailbox.syr.edu
Syracuse, N.Y. USA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1993 16:16:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Robert K. Toutkoushian" <TOUTKOUS@vx.cis.umn.edu>
Subject: Re: low O.G. readings and boiling wort question
Hello again:
Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions concerning how to
properly add extracts to water when boiling, and reasons why the O.G.
readings I have been getting might be lower than expected. Let me pass along
what I have learned:
I had a problem with adding extracts to my boil, in that I have been
getting some of the extracts sticking to the bottom, despite stirring.
Several people have suggested that one should (1) bring the water to a boil,
(2) remove from heat, (3) add extracts, and (4) put back on high heat and
bring to a boil once the extracts have dissolved. It is important to
then keep on a high boil in order to bring out the proper flavors of the
hops, etc. Previously, I had been bringing the water to a boil, and
adding the extracts directly to the boiling water while the pot was still
on the stove, hence the scorching and the "gunk".
Concerning the low O.G. readings, someone pointed out that if I
was doing a partial boil, where I add the wort (extracts + 1.5 gallons
water) to 3.5 gallons of water, then it is probable that the specific
gravity of the wort at the top of the fermenter will be lower than the
sepcific gravity at the bottom if the extracts settle to the bottom.
(er, that word was supposed to be "specific").
Anyway, thanks to all again...I really appreciate the continued great
advice of the subscribers here!
Rob Toutkoushian
University of Minnesota
INTERNET: toutkous@vx.cis.umn.edu
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 93 17:33:38 CDT
From: jay marshall <marshall@pat.mdc.com>
Subject: Re: counter pressure filler (was Kegging systems)
Don asked about counter pressure fillers:
I got a counter pressure filler from Benjamine Machine Products that
seems to work well. I posted the same question to the net, also asking
for comments on the Foxx CPF. The general consensus was that the Foxx
product was not well made, and that the BMP CPF was a good buy. I got
one, used it, and had a problem with it leaking when the liquid valve
was closed. Made for quite a mess until I got the process down. I called
BMP and asked about it, and the guy said it was unusual, but not unheard
of, to have a problem with the valve seat. He said to take it off, send
it back, and if there was a problem with it he would replace it. When I
went to take it off I found that it was loose to start with. I'm thinking
that this may have caused the problem, but I won't have a chance to check
it out until next week. BTW, the BMP CPF was supposedly designed by
Micah Millspaw who, if you are a long time reader of the HBD, you recognize
his name. If you don't, he was the source of some very good information and
is now the head brewer at some place in California (I think).
BMP has ads in most (including the latest) issues of Zymurgy. If you
don't have access to it, let me know and I'll dig it up for you. Price
was about $55 with shipping.
BTW Don, I tried to email directly to you, but my mailer daemon doesn't
recognize all those !'s in your address. If you have an address that is
in internet format you might add it to your signature.
- --
Jay
marshall@pat.mdc.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1993 21:02:41 -0700
From: robl <ROBL@outside.com>
Subject: request
homebrew-request%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
robl@outside.com
================
Robert Linder
phone 206-487-3656 fax 206-487-3773
================
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 93 09:31:03 EDT
From: Hal Laurent <laurent@tamrc.ENET.dec.com>
Subject: Handles for 6.5 gal carboys
>From: rcd@raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn)
>
> I have to qualify that slightly: I did hear from one person who had put a
> carboy handle on a 25-liter (6.5 gallon) carboy, and had seen some (my
> interpretation) crazing around the neck. It didn't actually break off, but
> he was (justifiably) scared away from using it. The reason I discount this
> one data point is that the carboy handles are not designed to fit that size
> of carboy. Obviously they weigh more, but the main issue is that the neck
> diameter is different.
Does anyone make carboy handles big enough to fit the 6.5 gallon carboys?
I would definitely buy one if I could find one.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1993 07:48:00 EST
From: "Pamela J. Day 7560" <DAY@A1.TCH.HARVARD.EDU>
Subject: Hard Cider Recipe?
Hello All,
Does anyone out there have a good recipe for Hard Cider? A
bunch of my homebrewing cohorts and I are going to make some (40 or
so gallons between us) next weekend, if we live through the New England
Brewer's Fall Festival that is. We plan on making the cider ourselves,
as I have access to a cider press, so we don't have to worry about
watered-down commercial cider. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Oh, BTW for all of you involved in the bogeyman/boogie man
controversy, look up piss-ant in the dictionary. (hint: it has
something to do with splitting hairs!)
Cheers!
Pam
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1993 08:43:51 -0400
From: Kevin O'Connor <kocon@ctp.com>
Subject: Chris Seiders' article
This was Chris Seiders' article. It was base-64 encoded (a MIME encoding
format). As he says, please bear with him.
Chris, try to tell your mail package to send mail to the digest in clear form.
The message:
- -------------------------------------------
Since this is my first post to this list, please bear with me. I am new
at brewing, and have recently started my second batch of brew. I have
encountered some things which I haven't encountered before (not surprising on
only the second batch) and am looking for some words of advice/encouragement.
I started an all-extract Brown Nut Ale on Sat. After boiling the extract for
1 hr I added it to my 5 gallon glass carboy and brought it up to 5 gallons
with water. I then cooled the carboy in a water/ice bath until it cooled to
76xF at which point I hydrated the wort by rolling the carboy along the
kitchen floor along with some manual shaking. I then rehydrated my yeast
(14g) in 1/2 cup of 90xF water for 15 min before adding to the wort.
Fermentation began quickly (within 3 hours) and alot of crap blew out of my
1" blowoff tube (approx 2 quarts blowoff).
Now the problem:
I noticed that the blowoff stage had pretty much stopped as of last
night (Mon.). I replaced the blowoff tube with a fermentation lock, but it
now appears as if fermentation has stopped completely, ie I don't see bubbles
coming through the lock. My previous batch was a stout kit and fermentation
seemed to continue through the lock for at least a good week after removing
the blowoff. My carboy is located in a closet which keeps it at about 74xF.
Is this normal? Should I wait before bottling or go ahead if the
fermentation has stopped? After only 3 days? Please, oh veterans of
homebrew, pass down any wisdom you may have on this subject. I am becoming
quite confused/frustrated since I feel like I am still shooting in the dark
with each step. Thanks!
Chris Seiders (SEIDERS@HANDI.MED.UTAH.EDU)
- ----------------------------------------------
I have had an experience like this myself with an unbelievably fast (seeming)
fermentation. Actually mine may have even been faster, 2 days if memory serves
me. Check your specific gravity. If you are down around 1010 or so for a
brown ale, I would go ahead and bottle. It won't hurt to let it sit a bit too
as long as there is still CO2 in the head space between the top of the carboy
and the top of the fermenting beer.
The batch that fermented fast on me was good drinking, so hopefully yours will
be too. Good luck!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
| | Why we are here:
Kevin G. O'Connor | /\/\ | To tremble at the terrible beauty
Cambridge Technology Partners | / /_.\ | of the stars, to shed a tear at
kocon@ctp.com | \ /./ | the perfection of Beethoven's
+1 617-374-8286 | \/\/ | symphonies, and to crack a cold
| | one now and then. - D. Letterman
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 93 07:59:06 -0500
From: zentner@ecn.purdue.edu (Mike Zentner)
Subject: Chullhee C Cho cho@MINERVA.cis.yale.edu
I tried to send you chiller plans, but your mail keeps bouncing with
unknown QM user
if you want these, send me your real email address.
Mike Zentner zentner@ecn.purdue.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1993 9:10:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Josh Stillerman <JAS@HARPO.PFC.MIT.EDU>
Subject: Mini Kegs
Someone gave me a 5 Liter Co2 charged mini Keg recently.
Only it did not come with any directions. (Like how full
to make it, how to tap it, how to adjust the Co2, etc...)
Has anyone used one of these beasts? Any sugestions would
be greatly appreciated.
josh
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1993 10:03:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: R_GELINAS@UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas)
Subject: COPS and AHA
For you AHA people out there: Did your organization ever contact
the producers of COPS, Fox channel 25, or the police department
"featured" in that infamous homebrewing issue of the COPS show?
Seems to me that the defense of the hobby of homebrewing, and the
education of the general public about the hobby, should be among the
highest of the AHA's priorities. Certainly the fact that the AHA's
president's book (Complete Joy of Homebrewing) was shown in an extremely
negative light on national television should warrant(!) some sort of
response. Perhaps you could ask your membership for donations to
be used for a 30 second TV ad:
"Hi, I'm Charlie Papazian, president of AHA and author of TCJOH. Perhaps
you've seen my book featured in the back seat of a police car on the show
COPS. While the AHA in no way condones any illegal activity, making beer
and wine for personal comsumption is legal is all 50 states. (ed. true yet?)
As in all hobbies, the advanced homebrewer requires specific equipment,
much of which looks similar to that used in the illegal process of
distillation. The AHA does not condone the production of distilled
liquors. It is illegal and dangerous. But once again, the homebrewing
of *beer and wine* *is* legal.
Homebrewing is an enjoyable and creative hobby...founding fathers brewed..
helps the economy....personal freedoms...for more info call..."
You get the idea.
Russell Gelinas
esp/opal
unh
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1993 10:31:02 -0500 (EDT)
From: Jim Busch <busch@daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: RE:iodophor & yuppies
In the last digest:
<Date: Tue, 12 Oct 93 20:29:28 -0400
From: Eric M. Mrozek <mrozek@horowitz.eecs.umich.edu>
Subject: Idophor question
<> I just finished a batch of spiced ale. Actually it started as a Belgian
Brown
> ale, but I used Idophor(sp?) to clean with and found that I can not tolerat
Watch those line lengths...
Iodophor is not to blame for a flavor defect in the beer. Look for changes
in your technique. 1 oz iodophor per 10 gallons. I rinse my kegs even
at this concentration. I do not rinse and rinse and rinse..just once or
twice. Some dont rinse. I personnaly like using Iodophor.
<Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1993 17:15:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Mark S. Nelson" <mnelson@eis.calstate.edu>
Subject: Brewpub review
<The rise in popularity of microbrewing and specifically brewpubs is
beginning to develope and ugly side, and I have recently seen this side in
the form of the Belmont Brewing Company of Belmont Shores, California.
<I guess it should come as no suprise that as brewpubs are becoming more
and more trendy, there will be some designed especially to appeal to the
yuppy set.
While I can be critical of many breweries and dont object to Mark being
critical of the beers at this brewery, I do feel Mark is being a bit
naive in his critisim of any establishment targeting certain individuals/
groups of consumers. This is after all a buisness. This buisness requires
a hefty capital investment. People expect a reasonable return on investment,
in a reasonable timeframe. Is it really suprising that a brewpub in
southern California is targeting the yuppy audience? Whats wrong with this?
Dont these people have the liquid assets to pay off the breweries debt? How
many other towns have brewpubs oriented to this segment of society? Gorden
Biersch is one of the most successful brewpubs ever and the Palo Alto location
has consistently been bashed for this "yuppy thing". As Dan prepares to
open his fourth brewery, he's laughing all the way to the bank.
Good brewing,
Jim Busch
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1993 09:26:44 -0500 (UTC -05:00)
From: ROWLEY@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: The Great Boogy Conundrum
Ulrich, korz and arf commnet on the correct spelling of [boogy]. Well,
the sociolinguist side of me wants to say that all dialectical variants
are equally valid, but the frosted wheat side agrees with the idea that
you all should consult a _good_ dictionary. The use of American Heritage
and Webster's should be avoided at all times. Both of these companies
are so popular because of cheapness and self-censorship. They both
got contracts in primary and secondary schools nation-wide by kow-towing
to "concerned parents' groups" which objected to inclusion of certain
words and ideas. Instead get ye to an OED, an Oxford unabridged or a
Random House. After seven years in the book biz, I should know. Let's
leave it at that and get back to some brewing :*) (Tip O'Neil nose)
Matthew Rowley
Dept of Anthropology
University of kansas
rowley@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
------------------------------
Date: 14 Oct 93 10:10:00 EST
From: "CANNON_TOM" <CANNON_TOM@hq.navsea.navy.mil>
Subject: More on the GABF
Message Creation Date was at 14-OCT-1993 10:10:00
I just got back from my first trip to Denver and my first
GABF. First, let me say it was a great experience. I went
to all three sessions, and despite the crowds on Friday and
Saturday nights, I got to taste any beer I wanted with
minimal difficulty. Concur completely with the Alaskan
Brewing Company's Smoked Porter and the Vermont Pub and
Brewery's Tartan Wee Heavy. Both deserved their gold
medals. Also, any visitor to Denver must spend adequate
time at The Wynkoop (adequate means as much time as
possible). Great beer, great brewpub.
That said, I was wondering if anybody out there who doesn't
live in eastern Colorado is happy about the GABF always
being held in Denver? This includes brewers and potential
attendees. Why not move the thing around the country so
more people have the chance to go to and participate in the
event? I'm sure Denver is convenient to the guys who run
the festival, but there are beer lovers across the country
who deserve a chance to try the beers. It is, after all,
the Great AMERICAN Beer Festival, so let's send it all over
America. I'm sure Charlie P. will appreciate any input.
Tom Cannon
DH Brewery
Fairfax/Annandale VA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 93 10:15:48 EST
From: Ulick Stafford <ulick@michaelangelo.helios.nd.edu>
Subject: Subject: Mashout revisited and pH
After reading all the accounts of mash out free sparges, and in
need of doing a quick lager batch so I'd have krausen for 2 batches
that had been hanging around for a while I tried a quickie brew -
not my usual decoction effort. I mashed in at 124 (still nervous about
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 93 11:30:29 EDT
From: garti@mrg.xyplex.com (Mark Garti)
Subject: gravity change for 1 pound dme in 6 gallons
to what extent will 1 pound of dme change the gravity of
6 gallons of water (or 1032 wort at 65C-70C).
mrgarti@eng.xyplex.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 93 10:37:39 EST
From: Ulick Stafford <ulick@michaelangelo.helios.nd.edu>
Subject: Mashout revisited and pH
After reading all the accounts of mash out free sparges, and in
need of doing a quick lager batch so I'd have krausen for 2 batches
that had been hanging around for a while I tried a quickie brew -
not my usual decoction effort. I mashed in at 124 (still nervous about
ommitting the protein rest) by adding the grain (9lb 2 row, 1/2 Cara,
1/2 crystal) to 136F water in my cooler with copper manifold false
bottom. After 1/2 hour infused boiling water to 146, and after another
1/2 hour infused water to 155. After an hour total I attempted a runoff
with no mashout and ran into difficulites. Part of the problem was stuff
coming through somehow - maybe due to mashing in the lauter tun, but
it wasn't long before the runoff died a death. Naturally I cursed all
those on hbd who said mashout weren't necessary, and cursed my
bad judgement against going against a procedure that worked well
for me. Eventually I started to sparge after recuirculating much
cloudy reheated runoff, and managed to free up the sparge with a
knife quite well so that the total time was only slightly longer than
it would have been if I'd mashed out and sparged. It would be fair to note
that the problem hay have been a very thin mash (after all the infusions)
which compacted the bed. I may try again sometime, but in meantime
will stick to tried and trusted procedures.
Ken Miller incorrectly states that the amount of acid to be added
is dependent on the pH. It is dependent on the buffering capacity of
the water - basically the amount of carbonates. A water with a very
high pH >9 may be so because it is so soft, and may require no acid
for a mash to reach the right range. If the water is fairly hard
acid is needed except for the blackest stouts and porters. I
suggest the original questioner get pH papers and add conservatively the
first time till the right range is reached. Thereafter it is much easier.
I am sure it would be possible to do it without indication by getting
a water analysis and working out stoiciometrically how much acid is
needed to neutralize most of the carbonate and then carefully measuring
out that correct amount of acid - carefully noting the concentration
and density of the acid when doing so. A micropipetter would be needed
unless the acid was diluted, and in the absense of an accurate guage
conversion factors to tablespoons would be needed. It probably wouldn't
be too gruesome, and I may even do it as an excercise some time - for
100 ppm carbonate per 5 gallon add 2 tablespoons of lactic acid diluted
1-10, unless there is chocolate malt in the grist, add 2.3 that amount
and when the moon is full...
__________________________________________________________________________
'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s@&* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng.
Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556
| ulick@darwin.cc.nd.edu
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1993 23:43:49 -0800
From: scott@fm.gi.alaska.edu (Scott Stihler (USGS analyst))
Subject: Eisbock
Greetings,
Living in Fairbanks, Alaska what could be a better beer to brew than an Eisbock.
Does anybody out there have experience making Eisbocks? If so can you give me
some advice? What is the best way to rack the beer off once ice crystals form?
In terms of IBU's what range is appropriate to the style? I know from Micheal
Jackson's book that the original gravity should be around 1.096 but that's about
all I know. If anybody has more information regarding this style I'd like to
check it out.
Cheers,
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1993 08:57:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawn_Nunley@Novell.COM (Shawn Nunley)
Subject: Re: Beer Drinks
Sean Taylor asked about Beer Drinks, so here is one that can be fun...
Flaming Dr. Pepper from Hell
This drink requires a shot glass and a tumbler style glass. Fill the
shot glass with Amerretto (sp?) and the tumbler half full with beer. The
idea is to have just enough beer to cover the shot glass when you drop
it in the tumbler. Now, light the Ameretto (2nd try at spelling) and let
it get pretty warm, not too hot. When the time is right, drop the shot
glass in the tumbler. That's right, drop the whole shot glass in the tumbler
so that it is standing up on the bottom of the glass. Now drink the whole
thing as fast as you can. The Ameretto will pour out with the beer yet
will remain kind of seperated. The resulting taste is remarkably close to
a Dr. Pepper. This is a fast drunk, BTW. Hangover City too.
Shawn
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 93 10:14 CDT
From: akcs.chrisc@vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli)
Subject: mashout
Tallying the responses from both HBD and email, it appears that
there are quite a few homebrewers out there who do not perform a
mash-out. More so than I imagined. And of course, there were the
traditionalists who tried to defend the mash-out ceremony.
Homebrewing makes for strange bedfellows.
> Chris mentioned one of the benefits of mashout (the debated
> one), but failed to mention the one on which most of us agree,
> namely mashing out raises the temperature of the mash much
> quicker than simply pouring sparge water and therefore more
> quickly decreases the viscosity of the runnings. Runnier
> runnings mean faster sparging (without a loss of extract
> efficiency), less chance of a set mash (stuck runoff) and more
> efficient extraction of sugars. Remember, warm honey pours
> easier than cold honey.
>
> Al
Ok I'll bite. Where's the dividing line between "warm honey" and
"cold honey" i.e. at what point do wort sugars flow and not flow?
I skip the mash-out and sparge with 170-180 F water. I usually
sparge 5 gallons of water in 30-45 minutes. My mashing
efficiencies are consistently over 80%. Given these facts I think
it's safe to assume that wort sugars flow without a mash-out.
> I agree that the reasons you quoted are not very rationial
> reasons for doing a mashout but there is one reason that I think
> is a good one. By raising the whole mash 20 degrees or so, you
> stand a far better chance of keeping it in the optimum range
> during the lautering process. It's easy enough to do for those
> who kettle mash but it is probably not worth the trouble for the
> bucket infusers.
>
> js
Ouch. An idol's dagger plunges the deepest. You assume that we
all agree there is an optimum range and that thus there is a need
to be within that range. I do not support such assumptions. I
skip the mash-out and consistently get good yields. It should also
be noted that I use a picnic cooler and never perform a protein
rest (Belgian malts). I won't tell you how I grind my malt because
I'll be forced to use the "C" word.
Looks like Godzilla and Mothra have teamed-up to combat the
onslaught from BOQAT. So far BOQAT remains unscathed. Can Tokyo
withstand another melee? Tune in tomorrow. Egg rolls served
during the matinee.
chris campanelli
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 93 13:00:54 EDT
From: andrewb6@aol.com
Subject: re: William Younger's No.3 (again)
In 1247 re: Younger's No. 3, Tony Babinec writes:
>In Scotland, McEwan's has an ale known as 80 Shilling or IPA, with
a gravity of 1042. In England -- spotted in London in The Sun -- you'll
find Younger No. 3, a cask-conditioned ale of SG 1043. Think of this
as an example of AHA Scottish Export. In the US, you'll find the
bottled counterparts to these two beers. The IPA goes by the same
name, and I don't remember the name of the other beer, but it might
be McEwan's Export. In some parts of the U.S. you might find
McEwan's Scotch Ale, but at SG 1088, this is a much stronger beer.
If anyone has access to the S
cotch Ale, send me one :-).
Perhaps I misinterpreted, but it seems that you're implying tha
t McEwan's 80 shilling and/or IPA are the Scottish version of Younger's No.
3. Not True!
Both t
he 80 shilling (written 80/-, and often referred to as 80 bob) and Younger's
are available in the north of England. While it is true that No.3 is a cask
conditioned ale and 80/ is served from a keg with a higher level of
carbonation, these are two separate beers (not the same beer dispensed
differently). No. 3 is darker and to my recollection much more malty.
In my earlier post (which will probably appear in
this issue) I suggested that No.3 has a gravity in the 50's. I think
perhaps my thirst was impairing my memory--1043 sounds right.
Incidentally, S&N make scotch ales under the names of McEwan
and Wm. Younger. Here again, Younger's is cask conditioned and McEwan's is
not. As to wheth
er they are the same beer masquerading in different containers, I can't
really say, but I suspect not. I have not seen the IPA over here, but you
are right that the 80/- is sold as McEwans Export. Incidentally, the canned
version is sold under the name of McEwans Export in Britain, too -- but of
course they're bigger cans : - )
Not a flame, just a clarification (I hope).
*******************************************************************************
*Andrew Baird * A good pilot is one who's made the same number of
*
*AndrewB6@aol.com * landings as take-offs!
*
*******************************************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 93 12:21 CDT
From: David Atkins <ATKINS@macc.wisc.edu>
Subject: hemlock and cranberries
Hello readers.
I recall someone not wanting to use hemlock in a brew recipe. The hemlock
mentioned in the recipe is not the weed that took Socrates out of circulation.
The non-toxic hemlock is a coniferous tree and harmful only if it falls on
you (confermation for an authority knowledgeable person would be appreciated).
Of course, since I'm not a toxicologist or forestry prof. or Ewel Gibbons
I don't condone or incourage the consumption of this or any other sylva.
I had some spring water once that poured over the fallen trunk of a
hemlock...if beer could ever taste that good.
Also, I'm going to skin the cat's meow in search of extract recipes utilizing
cranberries...'tis the cranberry season. If anyone has any other
experiences/favorites, I would eagerly read them.
Thanks,
David Atkins
atkins@macc.wisc.edu
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1248, 10/15/93
*************************************
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