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HOMEBREW Digest #1221
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 93/09/08 00:45:36
HOMEBREW Digest #1221 Wed 08 September 1993
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
trub,trueb,treber and all that. (ROB THOMAS)
cancell subscription (Matthew Whiting)
legality of homebrewing in germany (ROB THOMAS)
Dry hopping induces new fermentation??? (Spencer.W.Thomas)
fermentation temp monitoring (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Treating glass carboys... (Corby Bacco)
Re: fermentation temp monitoring (Ron Natalie)
H(ot) S(ide) A(eration)? (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Beer Hunter (Chris Pencis)
seasonal ales: dryhopping with spices (Mark Stewart)
Kegging FAQ is a go!!! (Dion Hollenbeck)
Stainless Steel and Chlorine ("Palmer.John")
My first all grain batch - a screw up. (Greg_Habel)
Re: Root beer (David Atkins)
(SNPA) Clone. Was re:SN Stout Request (Don Leonard)
Re: Yeast FAQ Ruckus (WEIX)
All-grain questions ("Bill Kitch")
Light struck beer (TAN1)
Lager Brewing ("Robert H. Reed")
Books on Brewing (Jason C Gerry)
Re: True-bay (Nate Clark)
RE: Old freezer chest (John Mare)
regulator question (Bryan L. Gros)
Re: Older Chest Freezers (brewerbob)
Brewing Competition (brewerbob)
RE: Dry hopping; secondary fermentation. (John Mare)
Old Recipes (CCAMDEN)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 09:14:49 MET DST
From: ROB THOMAS <THOMASR@EZRZ1.vmsmail.ethz.ch>
Subject: trub,trueb,treber and all that.
Hello all,
now that we can all approximate the u umlaut (ue) sound, and
incorporate it in the word trub, I ought to point out something
that I discovered last night while reading a german book on
brewing (by Narziss, aka Gott). The german word that means the same
as the English word trub is TRUB. There is NO umlaut!
There is a word Trueb or Trueber which means cloudy, but that isn't
the word used by brewers. There is also Treber, which translates as
draff (ie the grains after sparging).
Hence, the pronunciation is trub, with a germanic t and u, if anyone
really wants to speak English with a German accent (after all, we
call Muenchen Munich, so why should we call trub trub?).
I hope this clarifies things for you all, I've certainly given up.
Rob T.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 93 15:07:00 -0500
From: matthew.whiting@channel1.com (Matthew Whiting)
Subject: cancell subscription
Please cancell my subscription to HBD. My e-mail address on internet
is matthew.whiting@channel1.com. I have have been receiving HBD on
rec.crafts.brewing and wish to eliminate duplication. Thank you.
- ---
~ DeLuxe} 1.25 #12626 ~ Let no man thirst for the lack of real ale.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 11:12:33 MET DST
From: ROB THOMAS <THOMASR@EZRZ1.vmsmail.ethz.ch>
Subject: legality of homebrewing in germany
Hello all again,
Here's just a quick question that hopefully someone can answer:
Is homebrewing generally allowed in Germany?
I had heard that selling books on how to brew were illegal,
but that brewing (home) wasn't. I'm getting more interested in
this problem since it's not beyond the realms of possibility that
I'll be moving there in 4 or 5 years time.
Any german subscibers out there?
Rob. T.
p.s. things are slowly improving in Switzerland: you can now
buy those BrewKing brew bags in some supermarkets. A long way to
go I know, but they're getting there. (I speak as someone who gets
maximum three types of malt straight from Huerlimann [that umlaut again])
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 09:46:03 EDT
From: Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu
Subject: Dry hopping induces new fermentation???
I have been reading an old book on brewing: _Brewing_, A.
Chaston Chapman (President of the Institute of Brewing, Fellow of the
Institute of Chemistry of Great Britain and Ireland, Fellow of the
Chemical Society), Cambridge University Press, 1912.
In it, the author states "It had long been known that the addition of
a small quantity of fresh hops to beer in cask was usually followed by
an outburst of fermentation, a fact which did not receive an adequate
explanation until Brown and Morris showd that like most plants they
contain diastase, which, of course, converts some of the malto-dextrin
present into readily fermentable maltose." (p. 54)
=S
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 10:07:43 EDT
From: Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu
Subject: fermentation temp monitoring
The fish tank ones don't have a wide enough range. I found some
reptile thermometer strips that go from about 50 to 100 (F), which is
fine for ales. I've alse seen ones apparently designed for brewing
with an even better range; maybe this is what Sheaf & Vine is selling?
=S
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 08:12:32 MDT
From: bacco@md.fsl.noaa.gov (Corby Bacco)
Subject: Treating glass carboys...
Hello,
I have a friend who can get glass carboys from where he
works. The catch is that they get them in full of Sulfuric acid.
After they've used the acid he can take the carboy home. Question:
how should I treat the carboy before using it for brewing? It's been
suggested to used backing soda to neutralize the acid. Will that
work? TIA
-Corby (Happy to be out of Utah) Bacco
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 10:15:57 EDT
From: Ron Natalie <ron@bds.com>
Subject: Re: fermentation temp monitoring
> The fish tank ones don't have a wide enough range. I found some
> reptile thermometer strips that go from about 50 to 100 (F), which is
> fine for ales. I've alse seen ones apparently designed for brewing
> with an even better range; maybe this is what Sheaf & Vine is selling?
>
Actually, the beer one (I haven't checked who makes it) that I picked
up to replace the one that was unsucessfully peeled from the aquarium
doesn't have much more of a range than the fishtank ones. I can't
remember if the low end goes down to the 50's but the high end is
not above 85 I'm sure.
-Ron
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 10:25:13 EDT
From: Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu
Subject: H(ot) S(ide) A(eration)?
As I mentioned in an earlier note, I've been reading _Brewing_,
published in 1912. The author is President of the Institute of
Brewing, etc., etc., so I presume he's good for the current (1912)
understanding of brewing processes.
In the discussion of cooling (p. 66) he talks about "coolers", or long
shallow pans in which the wort cools by exposure to ambient air, and
(the relatively new-fangled) "refrigerators", which actively chill the
wort by running it over or around tubes filled with a cold liquid.
He then says (emphasis mine) "Certain of the constituents of the wort have the
property of absorbing oxygen from the air at tolerably high
temperatures, and this `hot aeration' as it is called, to distinguish
it from the cold aeration or absorption of oxygen by the cold wort
while passing over the refrigerator, is *very generally regarded as
beneficial*. It is true that some authorities have questioned its
importance, but I think there is a general consensus of opinion that
these more or less obscure oxidation changes are *desirable* and that
they do exert an appreciable effect on the brightening capacity of the
finished beer."
Now, clearly brewing science has advanced since 1912, and it seems to
be now generally accepted that HSA is bad for the flavor. But it's
interesting to see how accepted practice changes...
=S
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 10:38:13 CDT
From: chips@coleslaw.me.utexas.edu (Chris Pencis)
Subject: Beer Hunter
Beer Hunter (not the game - the Michael Jackson series mentioned in a
thread a while ago (mid 1100's I think)) is available on a 3 video set
from the Wireless Catalog (Public Radio). It is priced about $50. The
number for the catalog is 800-669-9999. Before you flame advertizing
and all that - proceeds support Public Radio (a little preemptive strike
there :)). Hope this info helps those who were looking for copies of
the videos...I also hope that there are copies left when I order mine!
Good luck and good beer,
Chris
======================================================================
|Chris Pencis chips@coleslaw.me.utexas.edu |
|University of Texas at Austin Robotics Research Group |
======================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1993 09:05:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mark Stewart <mstewart@unssun.scs.unr.edu>
Subject: seasonal ales: dryhopping with spices
I'm hopping (hoping) to get some feedback on the following:
Am considering a Thanksgiving-type ale that would involve the addition of
some pumpkin pie spice (allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, etc.). My question(s)
is, has anyone tried this before, (i.e., dryhopping with this stuff)?
Should I do this after initial fermentation has terminated? Should I do
this in conjunction with some aromatic hops? If so, what kind and how
much? About how much of this pumpkin pie spice should be added for 5
gals? I'm really just after the aroma of pumpkin pie and am not
interested in altering the flavor toooo much. Hope there's someone out
there that's played with this kind of thing before. I would appreciate
any and all feedback on this and can be e-mailed directly at
mstewart@unssun.unr.edu. Thanks much,
Mark
(p.s., am considering using a brown ale recipe that I've made in the past
and the pumpkin pie spice I saw was Schilling brand).
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 10:01:06 PDT
From: megatek!hollen@uunet.UU.NET (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Kegging FAQ is a go!!!
>From all the responses I have gotten, a kegging FAQ is an overwhelming
YES. I now officially volunteer to be the keeper of the FAQ. Please
send me every bit of information about kegging you know not only
including techniques, but also suppliers of kegs and parts. I have
gathered much of this already, but I will need your help to make it
complete.
I expect that the next 3+ weeks will be for collection. Then I go on
vacation for 2 weeks and will work on the compilation of results when
I return. Expect to see it uploaded to sierra.stanford.edu and
announced the middle of October.
dion
------------------------------
Date: 7 Sep 1993 10:35:25 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer#d#john@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel and Chlorine
In the recent post by Ed Hitchcock, he mentioned the current HBD wisdom of not
using Bleach (chlorine) in Stainless Steel kegs and the current interest in
iodine. While I would like to know exactly what the Cole Parmer catalog was
refering to with NO EFFECT, it may not pertain to what I am relating here.
Being a metallurgist, (i have a feeling that most of us are college grads of
one form or another, using the convienient computer systems at work,{:o ) I
checked out the Metals Handbook Vol. 13- Corrosion, on Chlorine and Stainless
and here is what I found.
Chlorine (aqueous) is highly corrosive to austenitic stainless steels, which
includes the 304 alloy most commonly used for Food Grade containers. The
mechanism of corrosion homebrewers mostly have to be concerned with is Pitting
Corrosion. This is caused by localized concentration of chlorine ions. Those
ions become concentrated by evaporation of water containing chlorine. The
corrosion is manifested as tiny pits which, due to increased relative
concentration of the chlorine in the pit to the surrounding environment,
quickly put pinholes in your tanks.
To prevent this type of corrosion, the key is good rinsing of the bleach water
from the steel. First off, let me say that the 1+ tablespoon bleach per gallon
(4ml/liter) is not much in the context of the industrial corrosion that the
Metals Handbook is written to. Most of what I read dealt with continuous flow
through pipes, etc. Anyway, If you rinse with warm boiled water until you
don't really smell it, and then prevent water droplets on the sides by either
filling the keg with beer or drying them out with a towel, you will not have
the localized concentration necessary to induce pitting.
One other thing that can be done with Stainless Steel is passivation. A 20% by
volume solution of (HNO3) Nitric Acid will ensure a uniform oxide film which
will prevent the localized concentration/activity difference which initiates
this form of galvanic corrosion. But I don't think this should be necessary.
While I am discussing stainless steel, I have a word of caution for those of
you get stainless steel tanks welded with fittings. There is a
time@temperature range (800-1600F) for austenitic stainless that results in
Sensitization. This term is used to describe a precipitation of chromium
carbides away from the grain boundaries which results in intergranular
corrosion and brittleness. You can practically snap it with your hands. This
is a common problem in welding of 304 stainless where the weld zone should be
cooled below 1100F within five minutes or the precipitation will start to
occur. This also means that heat between 1100-1600F for more than five minutes
should be avoided ie weld time. If any of you are noticing leaking or cracking
around your fittings, this is what has happened. The only way to fix it is to
anneal the whole thing at roughly 1950F for 5min/.1inch section size followed
by fairly rapid cooling to avoid Sensitizing it all over again. By the way,
304L (L for less carbon) does not usually have this problem, nor does 316L or
321.
Hope this wasn't too longwinded.
John Palmer
MDA-SSD M&P
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 13:12:22 edt
From: Greg_Habel@DGC.ceo.dg.com
Subject: My first all grain batch - a screw up.
Message:
Well, I attempted my first all grain batch this past weekend. Using
a rectangular picnic cooler with a copper t'd manifold for mashing
and sparging. Picnic cooler is a 10 gallon. Mashed 6lbs highly
modified pale malt and 8 oz crystal with 6 quarts of 168F water for 1
hour. Did the iodine test. The color was blackish but it turned to
clear when I stirred it up a bit. Here's the part I think I screw'd
up. When sparging with 3 gallons of 170F water, I had a very
difficult time of not disturbing the grain bed. Most of the time it
was very turbulent. Anyways, the OG ended up being 1.024!!!! I
quickly went to the fridge and pounded a couple of homebrews, yeast
and all! Here's my question... how important is it that the grain
bed is kept relatively undisturbed while sparging? Also, will the
liquid turn colorless near the end of the sparge. Mine didn't.
How do you add 3 gallons of 170F sparge water without disturbing the
grain bed? Could it be that my cooler is too large, ie the grain bed
is not deep enough? I decided to ferment it anyways. I'd love to
give this another shot this weekend. Greg.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 93 12:22 CDT
From: David Atkins <ATKINS@macc.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Root beer
I recall discussions concerning how to condition root beer wihout fermenting
away the sugar. Since I just skimmed those postings, I did not catch whether or
not pasteurizing was mentioned as a possible method. While I have never
pasteurized anything except fruit preserves and can hypothosize on pro's and
con', does anyone have any knowledged experiences to share with the list?
Thanks,
David
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 13:01 CDT
From: hplabs!mcdcup!tellabs.com!don (Don Leonard)
Subject: (SNPA) Clone. Was re:SN Stout Request
I'm having trouble posting to rec.crafts.brewing so hopefully
this will satisfy most of the recent email requests for this
recipie.
- -- Included File --
OK - I know, I know... the response I posted was for Sierra Nevada
Pale Ale NOT the Stout!!! But someone used SNPA - that means
PALE ALE... well anyway... I got lots of request for the recipie so
here it is:
6.6# light malt extract
.5# Laaglander DME
12oz Belgian Cara-Vienna 22L
8oz Belgian Cara-Pils 7L
1oz Perle pellet 7.1AA 60min
.5oz Cascade pellet 5.5AA 30min
.5oz Cascade pellet 5.5AA 15min
1oz Cascade whole 5.7AA dry hop
1tsp Irish Moss 15min
Wyeast 1056 American Ale
OG = 1050
FG = 1013
Brewing Notes:
Do a full boil (60 min).
Hop rates are based on a 5 gallon boil so if you boil less then
increase the hop rate to compensate.
Crush then steep the grains until ~170 deg, then remove.
Wort was chilled to 68deg before pitching.
Once the grains are removed, shut off the heat and add all of the
extracts. This will avoid scorching the extracts and darkening the
wort. Stir well then add heat and bring to a boil.
Add the dry hops in the secondary for around 5 days. When you rack
the beer to the bottling bucket, tie a sanitized hop bag to the end
of the hose or racking cane that goes into the bucket. This will
catch any stray hop bits that might get sucked into the racking
cane. In practice you wont get much if you use whole hops so you
can omit the bag if you'd like. If you hav'ent tried dry hopping I
encourage you to do so. The hop nose is fantastic and adds so much to
the character to the brew. I don't feel you will be able to match
it with normal finishing hops.
I have not had the chance to compare this to a real SNPA but people
tell me its very close. The OG is a bit shy of the true mark which
is 1057 so I would increase the DME by maybe 1/2# to compensate.
The mouth feel is a bit heavy from what I remember so you may wish
to reduce the specialty grains somewhat. If your not sure then just
go with it the way it is. You won't be dissapointed.
enjoy!!
Would you believe, someone flamed me for not paying closer attention
to the title of the post I responded to then - asked me for my SNPA
recipie ???? Sheesh... some people :-)
don
-- End Of Included Message --
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 14:04:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: WEIX@swmed.edu
Subject: Re: Yeast FAQ Ruckus
Hi All,
Well, I feel that since my post was the cause of all the wasted bandwidth
(either for the FAQ itself if you agree with JS or for the flame-fanning in
response if you don't), that I should speak my piece. To JS's credit, he
originally sent me the piece he went on to post about netiquette by e-mail
a few days before it appeared in the HBD. At the time, I thought it was
just a personal response, so I wrote him back explaining my reasons. I did
not save my exact message, because I did not expect it to make its way into
the public forum, but I will repeat the main points here. The main
reason that I feel compelled to "answer the charges" as it were is that I
dislike the implication that I did not know what I was doing and
furthermore didn't care. I reposted the whole mess because:
1. It had undergone extensive revision. I change the intro, reformatted
some of the general info sections and expanded others, updated the dry ale
yeast data, expanded and changed the liquid ale yeast, expanded and changed
the liquid lager yeast, updated some of the weizens, clarified some points
in the rehydration section, cleaned up the section on culturing, and added
two whole new sections. Just posting the changes would have meant a lot of
work for me in separating them out, and tons of work for anyone who would
try to make sense of the new info ((cut and paste)^3).
2. I did not serialize it over several days because:
a) the variable length of the queue makes it difficult to predict when
something will come out, and
b) the sections did not fit easily into 8k chunks, making it difficult
to find good stopping points.
3. As to fine-tuning it by e-mail, I had already been through many rounds
of revisions and updates with every yeast expert who reacted/responded to
the first message as well as many yeast novices who requested
clarifications, simplifications, or expansions of key points.
4. Given that I had changed it so much and desiring to avoid the infamous
group think phenomenon, I decided RELUCTANTLY to submit the mess to the
collective wisdom of the HBD for another rehashing/trashing.
The deciding point for me was the realization that at the end of one week,
the digest would be at the same place whether I serialized or not.
Even with all the debacle, I am glad that I reposted because I have had
several good responses to info in the updated version. Those hardy souls
and I have communicated by e-mail, and I hope to have the mess ready for
sierra by this weekend. Fear not, I shall not repost the beast again!
Finally, as for the results of his 10 to 1 poll, I would suggest that
irritated people are 10 times more likely to respond than those who are
satisfied, and that his was the only negative comment that I have received
from anyone regarding either the value of the FAQ or the size. (That is not
an invitation!!) I hope that no one else is discouraged from doing FAQs or
information resources or whatever. It is a great way to learn about a
subject and contribute to the art of homebrewing by computer all at once.
I do apologize for any inconvenience. If anyone needs to reach me, I am
|------------------------------------------------------------|
| Patrick Weix weix@swmed.edu |
| UT Southwestern Medical Center tel: (214) 648-5050 |
| 5323 Harry Hines Blvd fax: (214) 648-5453 |
| Dallas, TX 75235 Hopfs und Malz, Gott erhalt's |
|------------------------------------------------------------|
You know, when I get home tonight, I am going to relax and have *several*
homebrews!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 13:04:03 CST
From: "Bill Kitch" <kitchwa@bongo.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: All-grain questions
I went all grain several months ago and will never turn back. However,
I've got some new problems. I'm sure you experienced all-grainers can help
me solve them.
1) I've had haze problems since I started mashing my own
grains. Not chill haze, rather ther beer never clarifies properly.
I know the most likely source is uncoverted starches. However, my
mashes all passed the iodine test (sample taken from top of mash tun).
Is there a better conversion test? Is there another possible source for
this haze?
2) Sparging questions:
a) How much recirculation. "Recirculate until runoff is clear".
Sounds great in print. However, for amber or darker beers this is
not as obvious as is sounds. In last batch I recirculated the first
5 qts. Is this excessive?
b) When to stop sparging. "Don't over sparge". I like this about as
much as "cook until done". The three techniques I know of are 1)
sparge until running reach certain gravity (1.010?), 2) Sparge until
pH is too high ( > 5.5?), 3) Sparge until boiler is full. Both
Miller and Papazian give mash & sparge water quantities, but the last
time I used these my final runnings were 1.020, seemed wasteful.
3) Seperating break material & spent hops from wort. When I syphon my
cooled wort from the boiler into the fermenter, my syphon tube clogs
leaving 1/2 to 1 gallon of wort/trub in the boiler. I usually pore the
last of this glog into mason jars, allow the trub to settle and decant
the wort for use as starters. One quart of glog doen't bother me but
for my last triple I was left with nearly a gallon. Again seems
wasteful. Techniques? Equipment? (I know, Jack, I should drill a
hole in the bottom of my boiler and install a SS screen w/tubing etc.
I'm seriously considering this but would like to hear other
alternatives.)
TIA, WAK
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 13:22:42 PDT
From: TAN1%SysEng%DCPP@cts27.comp.pge.com
Subject: Light struck beer
Cheers to Chris Campanelli and his Pizza and Beer FAQ. I for one am
looking forward to parts 2 through 29! Nothing like poking some fun at
various flames that have been going on lately. On to business. I have
been relagated to brewing outdoors since several years back I had a glass
carboy explode in my bedroom closet (The saddest day of my life - superbowl
stout exploded, taking out the carpet and most of the clothes in the
closet). Now I have recently gone back to glass fermenters, 6.5 gallon
vice 5 gallon. I was wondering when light struck beer begins to be a
problem. My recollection is that hop acid, when exposed to light, will
impart a "Skunky" smell. If so then even while fermenting you are capable
of light damaging your beer. Could anyone expound on this for me. Do I
need to keep my primary fermenter in a box (remember the closet is out!).
TIA.
Tom Nelson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1993 14:17:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Robert H. Reed" <rhreed@icdc.delcoelect.com>
Subject: Lager Brewing
In response to questions from Phil Brushaber regarding
lager fermentation: I have been brewing lager beers
for many years and my experience has been better lagers
are brewed at cooler temperatures: I conduct primary
fermentation at 48F and secondary fermentation at
42F. There is no question that fermentation at
these temperatures takes several months. Once secondary
fermentation is completed, I typically lager my beers
at 32F-35F for three to four weeks. An important point
to be made is that during cold fermentation, a substantial
amount of CO2 dissolves into your beer.
An excellent reference on this topic is "Brewing Lager Beers"
by Greg Noonan
> Two questions fellow "Lagermeisters"...
> 1. All the sources I read said that secondary
> should take place at 50 degrees. My experience would lead me
> to belive this is too low.
> 2. How long should one typically expect a secondary
> to take? When is it safe to bottle or keg?
>
>
>
- --
*********************************************************
**** Rob Reed ****
*** IC Design Center ***
*** Delco Electronics Corporation ***
**** Internet: rhreed@icdc.delcoelect.com ****
*********************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1993 17:07:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jason C Gerry <jcg@kepler.unh.edu>
Subject: Books on Brewing
I am curious if there are any good books on home brewing...
I would also like to hear of any important do's and do nots that I should
know about and how much time I need to invest in producing a small amount
of brew.
I would also like to hear from any people who have tried to market
their beer, their successes, failures, etc. (personally e-mail me if you
can)
Jason Gerry
University of New Hampshire
jcg@kepler.unh.edu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 17:25:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Nate Clark <NC6967@conrad.appstate.edu>
Subject: Re: True-bay
Although I thought the issue of trub pronunciation had died down, Jack stirred
up an overwhelming sense of curiousity inside me. So much, in fact, I just have
to ask one more question...
Where were these german speakers from? It's possible that they said 'True-bay,'
as german has different dialects just as english does. However, the word they
are saying is clearly spelled 'truebe.' It is an adjective form of our brewing
word, trub, a noun (trueb in german), meaning dreary. It is quite possible
that if these germans were unfamiliar with brewing, they could have related
'dreary' with the weather, thus the German phase 'das truebe Wetter,' the dreary
weather. Hence the clouds.
My arguement is simple.
In english it's trub (noun). We have been trying to discover the pronunciation
of the german word Trueb (noun). Your german friends appearantly were saying
truebe (an adjective). Under nearly every case using the noun, it would be
spelled Trueb in German. Therefore, I submit to you that the correct
pronunciation of trueb as we use it in brewing would be closely approximated in
english as "troop," if one remembers to keep the "oo" short. Of course if you
say trube (rhyming with tube), most american brewers will understand you.
Nate Clark
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 15:08:53 -0600 (CST)
From: John Mare <cjohnm@ccit.arizona.edu>
Subject: RE: Old freezer chest
Wally,
I have been using a 18 cubic foot chest freezer which was old when I
bought it for $40 23 years ago. I used it as a freezer until I purchased a
"William's" temperature controller 3 years ago. Now it is my brewchest. In
contrast to when it was a freezer, the motor is now off much of the time
since it only has to maintain 40 - 65!F instead of freezer temperature. I
monitor temperature with a dairy thermometer in a bottle of dilute chlorine,
and find my temperature fluctuations to be minimal. The chest probably
varies by 3 - 4 !F, but the mass of the beer fluctuates hardly at all. There
is no brand name on the chest, but I know it precedes the "frost-free" era
of freezers and refrigerators, and therefore does not possess the more
complicated temperature controls needed for the defrosting process. I theink
you're probably right in assuming that and old (preferably $40) freezer is
the best bet.
John Mar!, John's Alehouse, Tucson, Arizona.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 15:58:48 PDT
From: bgros@sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros)
Subject: regulator question
While we're on the subject of kegging...
Most of the kegging setups I've seen at shops have regulators on
the CO2 bottles with two "dials". What do the two dials read? Are
two necessary? I don't want to skimp on the regulator, but I don't
want to buy something unnecessary.
- Bryan
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 93 18:49:20 EDT
From: brewerbob@aol.com
Subject: Re: Older Chest Freezers
To: akcs.wally
Subj: Older Chest freezers
From: BrewerBob@aol.com
Wally, I have a chest freezer with a Honeywell temperature controller that
works just great. It turns the power to the freezer on or off. I set the
freezer control to coldest setting. I have used the freezer as high as 63 deg
for fermentation and as low as 40 deg for lagering. Much of the time it is
set at about 50 deg for serving, I have two taps on the lid!
As far as the electric bill is concerned, I really don't know what it costs
me but I would think it would have to be less than it would be if I used the
freezer as a freezer since it is not keeping it as cold and I don't open it
often. My controller keeps the temperature within plus or minus 1.5 degrees
of where it is set for unless I leave the lid open for a long period of time.
BrewerBob
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 93 18:41:52 EDT
From: brewerbob@aol.com
Subject: Brewing Competition
To: All Home Brewers
From: BrewerBob@aol.com (Bob Davis)
Subj: Brewing competition - Stout and Pale Ale
Press Release:
The Northeast Florida Society of Brewers, co-sponsored by The Hogtown Brewer
of Gainesville, FL and The Home Brewery of Brooksville, FL, announce the 1st
annual First Coast Brewer's Challenge, an AHA sanctioned homebrew competition
to be held the first week in November, 1993. Competition is open to all home
brewers. Entry deadline is October 29, 1993 with the final judging taking
place on November 7, 1993. Beer styles for this competition are limited to
Stout (all types) and Pale Ale (all types). Fee is $6.00 per entry with three
bottles of beer required for each entry. Prizes include merchandise with at
least $50.00 worth for first and $20.00 for second place.
For information, cantest rules and entry forms, contact Bob Gammie (904)
241-8879 (RobertG211@aol.com on Internet), Chuck Cummins (904) 292-2166 or
Joe Bryant (904) 399-3367 (BPNS42A on Prodigy) or write to: Brewer's
Challenge, 354 Magnolia Street, Atlantic Beach, FL 32233.
End of release...
- - Folks, here's your chance to see how good that beer you make really is!
Join in the fun and win a prize! At the very least, your beer will be
critiqued by an AHA certified judge and you will be able to see how your beer
rates and will have a basis for braging to your riends. I will be entering my
oatmeal stout and I expect it to do well! Can you beat me?
BrewerBob@aol.com Bob Davis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 17:04:23 -0600 (CST)
From: John Mare <cjohnm@ccit.arizona.edu>
Subject: RE: Dry hopping; secondary fermentation.
Domenick asks about dry hopping. I use only whole hops for dry hopping in
the secondary (glass carboy). Hops pour in easily with paper funnel, float
near the top, and do not clog my siphon at bottling. There really is no
answer to the question about "typical reduction" in SG in the secondary
since this is a function of when you rack. With ale I rack on day 3 or 4
when the final SG has almost been reached. If I racked earlier, obviously
the SG would still be higher. With lagers brewed at lower temperatures
(50!F) I rack on day 5 or 6 and usually the SG will drop a few more points
in the 3 weeks before I bottle. I hope this helps.
John Mar!, John's Alehouse, Tucson, AZ.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 20:52:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: CCAMDEN@delphi.com
Subject: Old Recipes
Sorry to waste the bandwidth (although I have seen sillier things) but since
subscribing to the HBD for the past three weeks, I have been going through
the archives. I have downloaded about one and one half years worth, and
every so often I see something that makes me write to the original writer.
But in this case, the email bounced. Here is the post from last December.
>Date: Fri, 4 Dec 92 10:24:18 -0600
>From: hpfcla.fc.hp.com!melkor!rick (Rick Larson)
>Subject: 1992 Minnesota Brew Fest winning recipes
>
>I have compiled the 14 winning recipes (including Best
>of Show) from the 1992 Minnesota Brew Fest. If anyone
>wants them, let me know via private email. Please specify
>either PostScript or ASCII (default will be ASCII).
>The recipes will be distributed to the local homebrew
>stores (Minneapolis MN) so you too can brew the winning
>beer.
>
>rick rick@adc.com
My question is, does anyone have these recipes? If you do have them, could
you email me the ascii version?
I have my second batch in the secondary, and my third in the primary and I
am trying to line up my next batches.
Thanks in advance.
Cary Camden, Huntsville, AL
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1221, 09/08/93
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