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HOMEBREW Digest #1194

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HOMEBREW Digest
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This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU  93/08/02 00:51:11 


HOMEBREW Digest #1194 Mon 02 August 1993


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
Possible solution to commercial posts ? (Murray Robinson)
Dixie Cup 1993 (long) (Sean C. Lamb 335-6669 Loral)
Dixie Cup 1993 Events (Sean C. Lamb 335-6669 Loral)
re: clean glasses and head retention (Paul LaBrie)
bos93.txt (Robin Garr)
aha93.txt (Robin Garr)
hot water / starting starters (Ed Hitchcock)
Overnight mashing ("William A Kitch")
My pale ale recipe (npyle)
yeast culture miscellany (Todd Gierman)
Extract Efficency & Duvel Yeast ("Manning, Martin P")
Diacetyl rests (Jim Busch)
Supply Stores in Berkeley/Oakland CA Area (parsons1)
please cancel my subscription (Riccardo Cristadoro)
Barreling Beer (Philip J Difalco)
Sour Beer (was Re: Dallas beer/Cellis) (Paul Jasper)
Chili VS Jalapeno (Wolfe)
Traditional Porter vs East Coast Porter? (lyons)
Efficiency question (Ulick Stafford)
West Coast Brewery addresses (dschultz)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 13:25:34 +0930
From: Murray Robinson <robinm@mrd.dsto.gov.au>
Subject: Possible solution to commercial posts ?

After reading the discussions about whether or not commercial
posts should be allowed on the Homebrew Digest I checked up on
an automatic mailer package that may hold one solution to the problem.

Mail-Net (automatic mailing list handling software) allows uses to
subscribe to different "channels" of the same news group. For
example, the HBD could have a "commercial" and "non-commercial" channel.
When users subscribe to the newsgroup they would specify which channel
they wish to receive and when posting articles they would specify which
channel the article should go to. Non-commercial submissions would appear
on both channels of the HBD whereas commercial submissions would only appear
on the commercial channel of the HBD.

eg If I wanted to receive both commercial and non commercial postings of the
HBD I would subscribe to the HBD with the following keyword in either the
header or first line of the message: "X-Mn-Key: commercial"

Then if I wanted to post a non commercial submission I would specify the
subject in the header as usual and put the keyword "X-Mn-Key: non-commercial"
in the first line of my message. Similarly if I wanted to post what would be
deemed to be a commercial submission I would specify "X-Mn-Key: commercial"
in the first line of the message.

This approach obviously doesn't solve the fundamental differences of opinion
about the content of the HBD but it does offer some freedom from commercial
posts if that is what you want. Ofcourse the whole system falls down if the
keyword "X-Mn-Key: commercial" is not put on the first line of commercial posts.


Food for thought anyway.


Cheers,

Murray.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 02:22:59 CDT
From: Sean C. Lamb 335-6669 Loral <slamb@milp.jsc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Dixie Cup 1993 (long)


ANNOUNCING
THE 10th ANNUAL
DIXIE CUP
HOMEBREW COMPETITION

Yes, folks, it's that time of year again.
And if you didn't notice, the Houston Foam Rangers
are trying to get off their backsides and actually
get this thing organized early this year!

The 1993 Dixie Cup will be held Ocotber 15 and 16
at the Houston Holiday Inn West.

The official Dixie Cup Entry stuff can be requested
from the folks at
DeFalco's Home Wine and Beer Supplies
5611 Morningside, Houston, TX 77098 (713) 532-8154.
The contents of the official stuff takes precedence
over anything in this post (in case I goof).

ELIGIBILITY
Anyone can enter, the competition is open to all
non-commercial,home-produced beers.
Beers produced on the premises of a commercial
brewery are not eligible. You may enter as often
as you wish, but only two entries per
category/subcategory per person please.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
Each entry shall consist of 3 bottles, preferrably
11-12 oz. All labels must be removed,
but caps don't have to be blacked out.
An entry label must be attached to each bottle
of the entry, with all information
required on the form filled in.
(Actually, all we need is you name, a telephone no.,
full snail mail address, category abbreviation,
club affiliation, and any special ingredients or
deviant style info, so you could type this up
yourself and forgo the "official" form)
PLEASE USE RUBBER BANDS TO
ATTACH THE FORM TO THE BOTTLE.
A complete recipe form should accompany each entry.
(We want to print the recipies later in the
newsletter, if you win. You can always give
it to us after you get a ribbon).

ENTRY DEADLINE/FEES
Entries, paperwork and cash moola must be in
the hands of the staid employees of
DeFalco's Home Whine & Beer Supplies no
later than 4PM, SATURDAY, 9 OCTOBER.
The Fee is $6.00 before 1 October, $7.00 after.
A $1.00 discount is given to club
members. (Start your own club?)
DeFlaco's address is
5611 Morningside, Houston, TX 77005.
Phone: (713) 523-8154
FAX: (713) 523-5284.
NO ENTRIES WILL BE ACCEPTED AFTER 9 OCTOBER!

PACKING/SHIPPING
It is suggested theat each bottle be wrapped
in bubble pack or newspaper. Place one entry
(3 bottles) in a small box and fill with paper
or other packing mat'l. Line a bigger box
with a plastic bag and put all smaller boxes
in it. Pack the smaller boxes into the big box
with paper or packing mat'l. Tie the bag, and s
eal the box securely. Label the box FRAGILE
and THIS END UP appropriately. We suggest
that you ship via UPS, if they ask tell them
it's bottles, but they're well packed.
Try labelling the box KITCHEN SUPPLIES.

WE SUGGEST THAT YOU SEND YOUR ENTRIES ASAP,
BEERS THAT ARRIVE EARLIER SEEM TO DO
BETTER IN COMPETITION.

JUDGING
Judging will take place in three open sessions
15 & 16 October. The first round will be
Friday night, the second round and
best of show judging will be Saturday afternoon.

WE NEED JUDGES! We expect approx. 650 entries,
and need help getting the work done.
The competition is AHA/HWBTA recognized,
and we'll get you as many BJCP points as is
humanly possible for this gig
(1 for judging, etc.).

AWARDS
THE DIXIE CUP TROPHY is awarded to the
club that garners the most points on the
following basis:
1st in category - 3 pts.
2nd in cat. - 2 pts.,
3rd in cat. - 1 pt.
CLUB QUALITY AWARDS are given to the clubs
with the top five scores
(I've never understood how this works) in the
preliminary round. The awards are sponsored by
Crosby and Baker, and consist of gift
certificates redeemable at any homebrew
shop that does business with Crosby&Baker.
1st place $50, 2nd place $35, 3rd place $15.
INDIVIDUAL AWARDS for each category
1st place - A magnificent stein
and a swell ribbon
2nd place - A nifty ribbon
3rd place - A nice ribbon
BEST OF SHOW
Best Beer overall - Super Deluxe Pedastal
for your stein
Best All Grain - Deluxe Stein
Best Extract - Deluxe Stein
Best Mead - Deluxe Stein
MIKE TEMPLETON AWARD given in memory of
one of the original Foam Rangers, it is
awarded to the individual who collects
the most points at the Dixie Cup using
the same rules as the Gulf Coast
Homebrewer of the Year.
GULF COAST HOMEBREWER OF THE YEAR is awarded
to the brewer who accumulates the most points
in the Dallas/Fort Worth Bluebonnet Brew-off,
the New Orleans Crescent City Challenge,
the Orlando Sunshine Challenge,
and the Dixie Cup.
Points are awarded as follows:
3 pt.s for 1st place in a category,
2 pts. for a 2nd place,
and 1 pt. for a 3rd place.
The Dixie Cup is the last competition
of the series, and the
winner will be announced at the Dixie Cup.

CATEGORIES
(abbreviations for labels given in parens)
I. LAGERS
LIGHT/PALE LAGERS
1. American Light (AL)
Continental Lights
2a. Pilsner (CLP)
2b. Munich Helles (CLM)
2c. Dortmund Export (CLD)
AMBER LAGERS
3. Oktoberfest/Marzen/Vienna (OV)
4. Steam Beer (SM)
DARK LAGERS
5. Continental Dark (CD)
SPECIAL STYLE LAGERS
6a. Traditional Dark Bock (BKD)
6b. Light Helles Bock (BKL)
7. Strong Lagers (SL)

II. ALES
LIGHT&AMBER ALES
8a. Alt Beers (GAA)
8b. Kolsch Beers (GAK)
9. Light Ale (LA)
10a. Classic Pale Ale (CPA)
10b. India Pale Ale (IPA)
10c. American Pale Ale (APA)
DARK ALES
11. Brown Ales and Milds (BAM)
12. California/Texas Brown Ales (CTB)
13a. Traditional Porter(POT)
13b. East Coast Porter(POE)
14. Sweet Stout (SS)
15. Dry Stout (DS)
OTHER ALES
16a. Old Ales (SAO)
16b. Barley Wines (SAB)
16c. Imperial Stouts (SAI)
16d. Trappist Ales (SAT)
16e. Strong Scotch Ales (SAS)
17a. Light German Wheat Beers (WLG)
17b. Light American Wheat (WLA)
17c. Amber and Dark Wheat Beers (WBD)

III. UNUSUAL BEER STYLES
18. Novelty Beers
19. Fruit Beers
20. Specialty Beers

IV. MEAD
Meads will be judged as Traditional or Flavored
21. Still Meads (MST)
22. Sparkling Meads (MSP) note -this was left off
the mail-out thing!

Descriptions of the beer styles can be
found in the offcial stuff.

Please enter early and often!

- --------------------------------------------------------
. _ . _____________
|\_|/__/| / \
/ / \/ \ \ / Happy! Happy! \
/__|O||O|__ \ \ Joy! Joy! /
|/_ \_/\_/ _\ | \ ___________/
| | (____) | || |/
\/\___/\__/ // _/
(_/ ||
| Real ||\ Sean Lamb (slamb@milp.jsc.nasa.gov)
\ Beer //_/
\______// Houston, Texas, USofA, Earth, Sol
__|| __||
(____(____)



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 02:23:38 CDT
From: Sean C. Lamb 335-6669 Loral <slamb@milp.jsc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Dixie Cup 1993 Events


ANNOUNCING
THE 10th ANNUAL
DIXIE CUP
HOMEBREW COMPETITION

Yes, folks, it's that time of year again.
And if you didn't notice, the Houston Foam
Rangers are trying to get off their backsides
and actually get this thing organized
early this year!

The 1993 Dixie Cup will be held
Ocotober 15 and 16 at the
Holiday Inn Houston West.

The official Dixie Cup Entry stuff can
be requested from the folks at
DeFalco's Home Wine and Beer Supplies
5611 Morningside, Houston, TX 77098
(713) 532-8154.
The contents of the official stuff
takes precedence over anything in this
post (in case I goof).

ATTENDING THE DIXIE CUP

HOTEL RESERVATIONS can be had by calling the
Holiday Inn 800 number (don't have it with me)
or by calling the Holiday Inn Houston West
directly at (713) 558-5580. The rate is $52
per room per night, and don't forget
to ask for the Dixie Cup rate, and mention
the quoted rate. The address of the hotel
is 14703 Park Row, it is on the north side
of Interstate 10 at the junction of Highway 6
on the far west side of Houston.

SCHEDULE OF EVENTS
Friday, 15 October
1200-1700 Set-up, call DeFlaco's to help
1745 sharp Assembly of first round judges
1800-1830 Judge and Steward orientation
1830-2230 1st round judging
2230-2315 Potluck dinner
2315-2400 Fred Eckhardt Epicurean
Extravaganza

Saturday, 16 October
0830-1130 Milli-Conference and Breakfast
($12) or BJCP EXAM ($40)
1130-1200 Lunch (Free for judges/stewards
otherwise $5)
1200-1400 2nd round judging
1400-2000 Pub Crawl/Microbrew Tasting/
Jambalaya Feast
2200-2400 Awards Ceremony

Sunday, 17 October
1200 - ? World's Fastest Hombrewer
Competition

FRED ECKHARDT EPICUREAN EXTRAVAGANZA
THis year we return to the original sin:
Beer and Chocolate!
MILLI-CONFERENCE
Presentations by George Fix,
Paul Farnsworth and
Pierre Celis
$12, including breakfast buffet

PUB CRAWL/MICRO TASTING/JAMBALAYA FEAST
The Pub Crawl will wend its way to the
Orange Show, where the Micro Tasting
will be held. The Crescent City
Homebrewers are supplying loads of the
most excellent jambalya, and we'll have
as many Micro/Craft brewed beers as we
can scrounge. The pub crawl is $14,
including the micro tasting.
The micro tasting and food is $3 if
you don't crawl.

We are looking for beer for the micro
tasting, so if you're coming and feel up
to it, bring a couple of sixes of your
favorite local brew. Also, if you know
a brewer personally, have them contact
us if they feel like getting their
product "exposed" to the Houston Market.

WORLD'S FASTEST HOMBREWER
Come to Malibu Grand Prix and try to
wrest the title from Chuck Cox!

- --------------------------------------------------------
. _ . _____________
|\_|/__/| / \
/ / \/ \ \ / Happy! Happy! \
/__|O||O|__ \ \ Joy! Joy! /
|/_ \_/\_/ _\ | \ ___________/
| | (____) | || |/
\/\___/\__/ // _/
(_/ ||
| Real ||\ Sean Lamb (slamb@milp.jsc.nasa.gov)
\ Beer //_/
\______// Houston, Texas, USofA, Earth, Sol
__|| __||
(____(____)



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 7:30:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: P_LABRIE@UNHH.UNH.EDU (Paul LaBrie)
Subject: re: clean glasses and head retention

RE: Chris' question (and subsequent replies) about head retention, dish-
washing detergents, etc., an old trick to make a "beer clean glass" (i.e
to cut through an existing "film") was to wet the glass then rub good old
fashioned table salt around the inside of the glass. Typically you can
only reach the upper 1/3 of the glass with your fingers but this seems to
do the trick. When you've finished with this "salt scrub", be sure to give
the glass a THOROUGH rinsing with plenty of water before pouring your beer.

I worked for several years for a beer distributor who was a zealot about
presenting his product in a "beer clean glass". As I recall, he used to
give out free bags of trisodium phosphate to his draft customers so that
they might better clean their glassware. "If the bubbles stick to the side,
the glass ain't clean."

- paul -

------------------------------

Date: 30 Jul 93 08:24:11 EDT
From: Robin Garr <76702.764@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: bos93.txt

These are the top prizes awarded at Thursday night's banquet at the American
Homebrewers Association convention.

First, second and third prizes in all homebrewing categories follow as a
separate post.

The information in these messages is unofficial, reported during live
coverage of the events on the CompuServe Beer Forum by Sysop Robin Garr.

HOMEBREW CLUB HIGH-POINT AWARD
Sonoma Beerocrats, Santa Rosa, Sonoma County, Calif.

SAKEMAKER OF THE YEAR
Jim Long, Sacramento, Calif.

CIDERMAKER OF THE YEAR
Gabriel Ostriker, Somerville, Mass.

MEADMAKER OF THE YEAR
Walter Dobrowney, Saskatoon, Sask.

THE NINKASI AWARD
Walter Dobrowney, Saskatoon, Sask.

HOMEBREWER OF THE YEAR
Paddy Giffin, Cotati, Calif.


------------------------------

Date: 30 Jul 93 08:24:29 EDT
From: Robin Garr <76702.764@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: aha93.txt

These are the winners of the 1993 annual American Homebrewers Association
competition, announced Thursday, July 29, 1993, at the final banquet of the
AHA convention in Portland, Oregon.


BARLEY WINE (Sponsor, EDME Ltd.):

Third: Bill Clawson, Diamond Springs, Calif., Gold Country Brewers Assn.
Second: Chuck Boyce, Cincinnati, Bloatarian Brewing League.
First: Ray Call, Stockton, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats.

BELGIUM-STYLE SPECIALTY (Sponsor, Manneken-Brussel Imports):
Third: Phil Markowski, Norwalk, Conn., Underground Brewers of Connecticut.
Second: Tony Babinec, Flossmoor, Ill., Chicago Beer Society.
First: Brian Bliss, Dallas, North Texas Homebrewers Assn.

BROWN ALES (Sponsor, Premier Malt Products):
Third: John M. Roberts, Jamaica Plain, Mass., American Brown.
Second: Jim Dilldine, Craig, Colo., American Brown.
First: Douglas Brown, Redondo Beach, Calif., Maltose Falcons Homebrewing
Society, English Mild.

ENGLISH STYLE PALE ALE (Sponsor, Wynkoop Brewing Co.):
Third: Matt Hussey and Casey Lott, Portland, Ore., India Pale Ale.
Second: Russell Levitt, Bloomington, Ind., Classic English Pale Ale.
First: Kelly Dunham, Pacifica, Calif., The Brewbirds of Hoppiness, India
Pale Ale.

AMERICAN STYLE ALE (Sponsor, Northwestern Extract):
Third: Daniel R. Bell, Grass Valley, Calif., Foothill Fermenters, American
Pale Ale.
Second: Mike and Dina Kraft, Austin, Texas, Zymurgic Enthusiasts of Austin,
American Pale Ale.
First: Jack H. Denny, Lenexa, Kan., Kansas City Beer Meisters, American Wheat.

ENGLISH BITTER (Sponsor, The Brewery):

Third: Steve Klover, Thornton, Colo., Hop Barley & The Alers, English Special.
Second: Byron Burch, Santa Rosa, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, English Extra
Special.
First: Donna Lynn and Brian F. Johnson, Palo Alto, Calif., San Andreas Malts,
English Special.

SCOTTISH ALE (Sponsor, Something's Brewing):
Third: Jay Ankeney, Manhattan Beach, Calif., Maltose Falcons Homebrewing
Society, Scottish Light.
Second: Ted Andersen, Petaluma, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Scottish Heavy.
First: James E. Edgins, Highlands Ranch, Colo., Hop Barley & The Alers,
Scottish Heavy.

PORTER (Sponsor, The Cellar):
Third: Joel Rosen and Nancy Simon, Hermosa Beach, Calif., The Strand
Brewers Club, Robust Porter.
Second: Scott Keohane, Carlisle, Mass., The Boston Wort Processors, Robust
Porter.
First: Marvin Crippen, Seattle, Robust Porter.

ENGLISH AND SCOTTISH STRONG ALE (Sponsor, Wine and Hop Shop):
Third: Rick Garvin, Arlington, Va., Brewers United for Real Potables (BURP),
English Old Ale/Strong Ale.
Second: Mike Schaefer, Wauwatosa, Wis., Brewtown Brewmasters, English Old
Ale/Strong Ale.
First: Ray Call, Stockton, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Strong "Scotch" Ale.

STOUT (Sponsor, Alternative Garden Supply):
Third: Mike Rego, Amherst, N.H., Brew Free or Die Club, Foreign Style.
Second: Chris Stamp, Rock Stream, N.Y., Ithaca Brewers Union, Sweet Stout.
First: David and Melinda Brockington, Seattle, Foreign Style.

BOCK (Sponsor, Yakima Valley Hop Growers):
Third: Alan Barnes, Nashville, Tenn, Mashville Brews, Helles (Light) Bock.
Second: Bob Tullmann, Pine Mountain, Calif., Doppelbock.
First: Ron Kribbs and Rick Skillman, Naples, Fla., Eisbock.

BAVARIAN DARK (Sponsor, Crosby and Baker):
Third: Dennis Kinvig, Toronto, Ont., Canadian Association for Better Ale
and Lager (CABAL), Munich Dunkel.
Second: Tom Altenbach, Tracy, Calif., Draught Board Home Brew Club,
Schwarzbier.
First: Jay Hersh, Medford, Mass., The Boston Wort Processors, Munich
Dunkel.

DORTMUND/EXPORT (Sponsor, Briess Malting Co.)
Third: Thomas J. O'Connor III, Rockport, Me., Maine Ale & Lager Tasters
(MALT).
Second: Rob Brunner, Windsor, Colo., Mash Tongues.
First: Robert Henke, Whitefish Bay, Wis.

MUNICH HELLES (Sponsor, L.D. Carlson Co. [Formally Wines Inc.]):
Third: Richard Kowalski, Wantagh, N.Y., Paumanok United Brewers (PUB).
Second: Keith Weerts, Windsor, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats.
First: Donald J. Weaver, New Freedom, Pa., Libation Association.

CLASSIC PILSNER (Sponsor, California Concentrates):
Third: Chris Moes, Woodside, Calif., German.
Second: Ron Page, Middletown, Conn., The Boston Wort Processors, German.
First: Steve and Tina Daniel, League City, Texas, Bay Area Mashers (BAM),
German.

AMERICAN LAGER (Sponsor, Coors Brewing Co.):
Third: Charles P. Hessom, Redwood Valley, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, American
Standard.
Second: Steve & Tina Daniel, League City, Texas, Bay Area Mashers (BAM),
American Dark.
First: Gene Muller, Westmont, N.J., HOPS, Cream Ale/Lager.

VIENNA OKTOBERFEST/MARZEN (Sponsor, F.H. Steinbart Co.)
Third: Ron Page, Middletown, Conn., The Boston Wort Processors, Marzen/
Oktoberfest.
Second: John M. Roberts, Jamaica Plain, Mass., Marzen/Oktoberfest.
First: John E. Janowiak, Adelphi, Md., Marzen/Oktoberfest.

GERMAN-STYLE ALE (Sponsor, The Beverage People):
Third: Keith Weerts, Windsor, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Dusseldorf-style
Altbier.
Second: Bruce Cornell, Baton Rouge, La., Redstick Brewmasters, Kolsch.
First: Bill Yearous, Galt, Calif., Brew Angels, Dusseldorf-style Altbier.

FRUIT BEER (Sponsor, The Purple Foot):
Third: Kelly Mower and Brent Stromness, Salt Lake City, Zion Zymurgists Hops
(ZZ HOPS) Club.
Second: Vern Wolff, Esparto, Calif., Gold Country Brewers Assn.
First: Gene Muller, Westmont, N.J., HOPS Club.

HERB BEER (Sponsor, Marin Brewing Co.):
Third: Michael Millerick, Fairfield, Conn.
Second: Mike Schaefer, Wauwatosa, Wis., Brewtown Brewmsters Club.
First: Richard Mansfield and Mike Smith, San Jose, Calif., Washoe Zephyr
Zymurgists Club.

SPECIALTY BEER (Sponsor, Beer and Wine Hobby):
Third: Ronald B. Moucka, Fort Collins, Colo., Mash Tongues Club.
Second: Frank F. Miller, Libertyville, Ill.
First: Ron Page, Middletown, Conn., The Boston Wort Processors.

SMOKED (Sponsor, Jim's Homebrew Supply):
Third: George Mika, Warrenton, Va., Brewers United for Real Potables (BURP).
Second: Mike Fertsch and David Koresh (!?), Woburn, Mass., The Boston Wort
Processors, Bamberg-style Rauchbier.
First: Paddy Giffen, Cotati, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats.

CALIFORNIA COMMON BEER (Sponsor: Anchor Brewing Co.)
Third: Strom C. Thacker, Gainesville, Ga.
Second: Robbie Enrico, Greensburg, Pa., Three Rivers Alliance of Serious
Homebrewers (TRASH).
First: Michael Dennis Bell, Pleasant Hill, Calif.

WHEAT BEER - ALE (Sponsor: American Homebrewrs Association):
Third: Bruce A. Brandt, Casnovia, Mich., Prime Time Brewers, Berliner Weisse.
Second: Steve Dempsey, Fort Collins, Colo., Hop Barley & The Alers Club,
German-style.
First: Walter Dobrowney, Saskatoon, Sask.

TRADITIONAL MEAD (Sponsor, Havill's Mazer Mead Co.):
Third: Paddy Giffen, Cotati, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Still Mead.
Second: Byron Burch, Santa Rosa, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Sparkling Mead.
First: Walter Dobrowney, Saskatoon, Sask., Still Mead.

MELOMEL, CYSER, PYMENT (Sponsor, National Honey Board):
Third: Peter Knight, St. Helena, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Still.
Second: Bob Gorman, Waltham, Mass., The Boston Wort Processors.
First: Gordon Olson, Los Alamos, N.M., Los Alamos Hill Hoppers.

CIDER (Sponsor, Lyon's Brewery of Dublin):
Third: Gabriel Ostriker, Somerville, Mass., Still.
Second: Gabriel Ostriker, Somerville, Mass.. Sparkling.
First: Gabriel Ostriker, Somerville, Mass., Specialty Cider.

SAKE (Sponsor, Hakusan Sake):
Third: Fred Eckhardt, Portland, Ore., Oregon Brew Crew.
Second: Jim Long, Sacramento, Calif., Gold Country Brewers Assn., Sparkling.
First: Jim Long, Sacramento, Calif., Gold Country Brewers Assn.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 11:11:08 -0300
From: Ed Hitchcock <ECH@ac.dal.ca>
Subject: hot water / starting starters

>I dont know if a on demand hot water heater would be capable of providing
>26 gallons of 180F water in a 30 minute time frame. This is my
>requirement.

Perhaps what you need is a flow-through water heater. That way it
heats the water to the desired temp as it passes through the pipe, no
worrying (not that homebrewers worry) about the time to heat up 40 gallons
of water.

**************************

Recently I made some starters the quick and dirty way, since I
realized Friday morning I hadn't started the yeast for Saturday's brewing
session. I scrapped the slant into a 640 mL Beck's bottle, added 500 mL
sterile wort, capped it, SHOOK VIGOROUSLY for 5 minutes, removed the cap
and put on an airlock.
The satrter was cloudy with yeast by Saturday Night pitching time,
and the kraeusen was crawling out the airlock (oops!) Sunday morning. Of
course, this was a fairly fresh slant. One of my older slants took two
days to get to that point.

____________
Ed Hitchcock/Dept of Anatomy & Neurobiology/Dalhousie University/Halifax NS
ech@ac.dal.ca +-----------------------------------------+
| Never trust a statement that begins: |
| "I'm not racist, but..." |
+-----------------------------------------+
Diversity in all things. Especially beer.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 09:16:01 CST
From: "William A Kitch" <kitchwa@bongo.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: Overnight mashing

In HBD #1193 Jack Schmidling mentions doing the mash-in the night
before the rest of the mash. According to Jack, the overnight mash-in
"had far more malty flavor and seemed richer and fuller in body" than
the same recipe using a normal mash-in.

Very interesting experience! I could certainly go for mashing-in the
night before. Have others tried this? With what sucess? Jack, what
temperature do you mash in at and how does it change overnight?

Sante' WAK

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 8:34:43 MDT
From: npyle@n33.stortek.com
Subject: My pale ale recipe

I have to report errors in the pale ale recipe I posted yesterday, if anyone is
paying attention. The ingredient list showed 2 oz of Cascade pellets; only
1 oz was used. Also, the hopping schedule showed 0.5 oz of dry hops (Cascade
leaf hops) and it should have shown 0.6 oz. Sorry for the errata but, hey, I'm
an amateur!

Cheers,
norm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 11:02:46 -0500
From: tmgierma@raphael.acpub.duke.edu (Todd Gierman)
Subject: yeast culture miscellany

I posted some ideas for yeast culturing in HBD #1192. For some of the
questions pertaining to yeast culture in #1193, I refer you to those notes.
I'll add a few more comments here. But, first the disclaimer. I am not a
yeast expert; outside of homebrewing I do not work with yeast. However, I
do a fair amount of culturing of E. coli and animal cells, I have a
reasonable level of knowledge concerning the biochemistry and molecular
biology of yeasts, and I have access to a number of technical writings
concerning yeast physiology and growth. The methods that I have described
are idealized. I realize that they are not always suitable to the setup of
most homebrewers. I urge anyone reading them to take them as guidelines
that can be adapted to one's own system - deviation is the accepted norm.

>From: tpm@wdl.loral.com (Tim P McNerney)
>Subject: Re: innoculating a starter from a petri dish
>
>My biggest problem with innocualting a starter from a petri dish is that
>I don't want to go through 5 different sized, sanitized starters to build
>up enough yeast. I tried innoculating a few ml of wort in a 1 liter flask,
>but did not see the activity I was used to with 10 ml testtubes. I got
>the testtubes with presterilized wort from the Yeast Kit Culture Company
>(along with 50 ml testtubes) and these worked great. So my questions are:
>
>1. Did the fact the the wort in the flask was so shallow cause problems with
>yeast growth or just with the visible effects?

Probably not, to the first part. Who knows for sure, to the second.

>2. Since I only tried this once, did I just mess up this one innoculation?

Possibly. Allow your flamed loop to cool before picking (stab it into a
clear area of the agar - it should sizzle). A hot loop may kill your
colony on the spot. For a few mls in a liter, you're talking a long time
before you will even begin to see activity (see my previous posting).
Presumably, you successfully picked a colony, as evidenced by the activity
seen in the "few ml" starter starter.

>3. How do other people build up a healthy sized started with spending half
>their life preparing storage vessels?

Again, my previous posting explains how I do it under ideal conditions. It
really isn't a matter of five sterile containers, more like two or three.
Here's a suggestion: start with 2 ml in your sterile tube, add 8 ml the
next day to make 10 ml (assuming your tube holds 12-15 ml), the next day, add
50-100 ml to a thoroughly sanitized, if not sterile, mason jar or juice jar
(glass) (avoid detergents), pitch the 10 ml into the 50-100, bring your
starter up to volume with successive additions over the next two days. At
each stage you really want to see vigorous growth before increasing the
volume. A healthy, actively growing culture is the best way to minimize
bacterial growth. If you add a little bit of yeast to a large volume, you
run the risk of pitching a highly contaminated culture. Some bacterial
growth (acetobacter for one) may actually inhibit the growth of yeast.

FYI: During exponential (or log phase) growth, yeast double every 90
minutes @ 30 degree C with vigorous and constant aeration in specialized
media - this does not make for good beer, however. Log phase can be
divided into three stages based on the rate of cell division (or the
proportion of budded cells within a culture): early log phase (cell-density
< 1 x 10 (E7) cells/ml), mid-log phase (1-5 x 10 (E7) cells/ml), and
late-log phase (5 x 10 (E7)-2 x 10 (E8) cells/ml. At 2 x 10 (E8) yeast
cultures are considered saturated and the cell enter stationary phase. So
you can see, if you dilute your culture well below 1 x 10 (E7) cells/ml,
you may lose your log phase growth. Thus, even a ten-fold dilution may be
detrimental to your growth rate. Pitching 500 ml of starter into 18.9
liters (5 gallons) constitutes a 38-fold dilution. A saturated culture @
500 ml may get you to early-log phase. BTW, bacteria may have a doubling
time 1/3 that of yeast.

>From: Mark A Fryling <mfryling@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
>Subject: culturing Belgian yeast

>The question I'd like to pose, is does anyone know if the yeast in the
>Hoegaarden samples and the Abt 12 is fit to culture and brew with? I know
>that
>the Chimay is good stuff, and I already learned (from a recent posting) that
>the Duvel yeast is not. Ditto for Orval. The others were pasteurized and
>filtered. TIA

I have similar questions myself. I can tell you that I have a wit going
using a Hoegaarden culture. It has been fermenting quite vigorously for 4
days now. The fermentation is actually giving off some very pleasant
odors. I've seen recipes that have used Hoegaarden yeast, so I assume that
it is okay. I know nothing of Abt 12. Chimay may be good, but I know of
one person who had a complete failure with it, and his skills are quite
esteemed in our local HB club. Although the Duvel may be a conditioning
yeast it may not be complete junk. Watch out for bacteria that may be
lurking in the bottle dregs. I have tried culturing the Duvel yeast. I
have succeded in only culturing the bugs instead, which may be
lactobacillus. I know that the live yeast was present, but the bugs seem
to have overgrown the culture. Orval is not necessarily junk either.
Michael Jackson writes that Orval does two fermentations with single-cell
cultures and conditions with a 5-strain culture. I don't know, but what do
you think the chances are that the yeast in the single cell culture is
present among the 5 strains during conditioning? I'd guess it is there.
You could probably isolate it, but is it worth the trouble? Probably not.
However, it would be interesting to use the 5-strain culture to condition
that trappist ale that you might attempt someday. One thing to remember is
that many of the Belgian ales require a variety of yeast strains to yield
the final product. If you plate them out, be sure to pick many colonies
for your stock culture.
Todd M. Gierman
Department of Microbiology
Duke University Medical Center


------------------------------

Date: 30 Jul 1993 22:50:21 -0600
From: "Manning, Martin P" <manning#m#_martin_p@mcst.ae.ge.com>
Subject: Extract Efficency & Duvel Yeast

My personal preference is to measure the extract efficiency at the start of the
boil. It is, as someone said, the efficiency of the mashing and lautering
processes that are of the most interest. At this point, the character of the
wort is set, and you have recovered all of the sugars you are going to get.

A point which no one has brought up is that if you are using any kettle
adjuncts (honey, sugars, etc.), you definitely want to do the calculation
before you add them.

To get a good number, you must be very careful in the measurements taken, and
adjust the measured volume as well as the SG to your reference temperature. I
am amazed at the number of people who fail to include this correction. At 100
C, it will swing the apparent extract yield by 4%. To measure the (hot) volume
in my half-barrel kettle, I use a stainless ruler to get the distance from the
edge of the 12-in hole in the top to the surface of the liquid - to the nearest
mm. I made a calibration curve which I then refer to get the volume, which
should be within 0.12 liter or so.

It goes without saying that an accurate hydrometer is needed as well. I prefer
the type with an integral thermometer and correction read-out. As far as the
correction for temperature goes, the best strategy is to cool the sample to the
reference temperature, or as close as is possible. The correction is indeed
dependent upon the wort gravity as well as its temperature, but the closer you
are to the reference, the smaller the error in ignoring it.

******************

Moortgat's Duvel is fermented with two strains of yeast, in separate un-equal
volumes. One of these two strains is used for the bottle conditioning, after
the yeast from the primary is filtered out. These details are from Jackson,
"The Great Beers of Belgium". I have a Duvel culture which was obtained from a
bottle a couple of years ago, shortly after it appeared in the local market.
Interestingly, the bottles out there now seem to be DOA, as several recent
attempts have yielded nothing. A fresh one from Belgium could be a different
story. The culture I have makes wonderful beer, though. It has a distinctive
Duvel flavor profile, and seems to build a livelier head than most others in my
experience. Two or three times a year, when I regenerate my collection of
twenty or so yeasts in 6-ml tubes of pale, un-hopped wort, I always observe
these same characteristics.

Martin Manning


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 11:40:15 EDT
From: Jim Busch <busch@daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: Diacetyl rests

In the last digest:

<Mark Fryling
<BTW, just as a comment, the Gordons Highlander Scotch Ale was absolutely
<fantastic.

This has been my experience too. While I have yet to actually visit Scotland,
I have drank scottish ales and the ones in Belgium are always a joy. I
belive the special Belgium color malts make all of the difference.

<From: dipalma@banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma)

<>an authentic contential lager, ferment at 48-51F for 1 week, drop temp
^^^^
>2F per day until it is 42F. Rest here 2-4 days (diacetyl rest)

<I'm a little confused here. I don't ferment lagers warm, 48F-50F, and I've
always used the Noonan method of raising the temperature for the diacetyl
rest (~55F for 2 days), with good results. Can you clarify this point, Jim?

I have received a bit of mail on this topic so it seems I have hit a nerve
on lagering. The final test is in the finished product, and whether any
detectable amounts of diacetyl survive. The most important factor on this
is yeast strain selection. G. Fix in the latest issue of Brewing Techniques
lists two tables relating the correlation between production and reduction
of diacetyl levels and yeast strains over time. Two of the strains, including
the ever popular weihenstephan 34/70 produce much lower levels of diacetyl
than a third strain. In all of the cases, each yeast is able to reduce the
level of diacetyl but the one that produced a lot initially was not able to
reduce the levels very low. If one is using a strain that is a big diacetyl
producer, then it would seem that a higher temp diacetyl rest is in order to
acclerate the yeasts ability to metabolize and break down the diacetyl into
the two less bothersome constituants, see Fix's article. It is my opinion
that if a strain does not produce much diacetyl, like 34/70, and primary
ferementation is carried out at 48F, then there is no need to raise the
temp to further reduce the levels. Raising the temp to 55F is not that
radical. Raising it higher is done for rapid fermentation & lagering ala
Dr. Narziss. This is a natural and easy technique where at the end of
primary at 48F, the attemperater is turned off, allowing the temp to slowely
rise into the upper 50s. After the rest, the lager period is reduced to 2-
3 weeks time. If I remember the Fix article, not much reduction of diacetyl
occurs under 40F, so it would seem that this is a lower limit.

I suggest leaving out the 55 stage on a batch using 34/70 and substitute the
brief rest at 42-44F for 2-3 days, and see if anything changes. Whatever is
easier for you and works is what counts.

Jim Busch
DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 12:21:06 -0400
From: parsons1@husc.harvard.edu
Subject: Supply Stores in Berkeley/Oakland CA Area


Greetings, all,

Next week I will be moving from Cambridge (and the wonderful "Modern
Brewer" supply store) to Berkeley CA. Does anyone know of any good
stores in the area with a decent selection of grains and fresh hops?

Things in San Francisco and Palo Alto (home of Pete's Wicked) would
be accessible to, so far as anything in CA is accessible from anywhere
else.

Thanks in advance,

Jed parsons1@husc8.harvard.edu


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 10:10:31 PDT
From: rcristad@weber.ucsd.edu (Riccardo Cristadoro)
Subject: please cancel my subscription

please cancel my subscription

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 09:57:08 -0400
From: Philip J Difalco <sxupjd@anubis.fnma.COM>
Subject: Barreling Beer


Could those of you who have barreled their beer, in wooden casks,
please e-mail me (or publish) your advice/experiences.
Thanks.


- ---
email: sxupjd@fnma.com (NeXT Mail Okay)
Philip DiFalco, Senior SomethingOrOther, Advanced Technology
FannieMae, 3900 Wisconsin Ave NW, Washington, DC 22016 (202)752-2812

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 10:51:42 -0700
From: paul@rational.com (Paul Jasper)
Subject: Sour Beer (was Re: Dallas beer/Cellis)

On 29 Jul, 10:05, Jeff Benjamin wrote:
> Subject: Re: Dallas beer/Cellis
>
> > Celis Grand Cru, an interesting attempt at a Belgian style. It's too light
> > in color and body to be a true Grand Cru, but they really have the flavor
> > down. How do they do this? Anyone know? It tastes like a true lambic.
>
> Ahem... the Grand Cru is good as well, but I don't think it bears much
> relationship to a true lambic.

Well, yes...

> I vaguely remember hearing someone say
> that Pierre Celis does add some sort of souring bug (a Pediococcus,
> perhaps?) to both the White and the Grand Cru, but one bug does not a
> lambic make.

Hmmm, really? I've yet to try the Grand Cru - I've been happy enough with
the White, now I've found a regular supply :^). I'll have to pick some up
this weekend when I re-stock.

> Which leads me to my last topic...
> > A close friend, and business associate is going to Brussels for a week, and
> > asks what beers to bring back for me? If you could select three or four,
> > what would they be?
>
> A very tough call. If you like the sour stuff, I recommend either the
> Cantillon or Boon lambics.

If you *really* like sour beer, get him to bring back some Rodenbach.
The regular Rodenbach is delicious, with a powerful fruity sourness.
They also have a Grand Cru if you can stand it...

I found some Rodenbach at Liquor Barn in San Francisco about 2 years ago,
but haven't seen it anywhere since. Anyone ever tried to make it? The
sourness comes from aging in oak, and young and old agings are blended. The
Grand Cru is just the "old" beer that has been aged for up to two years!

>-- End of excerpt from Jeff Benjamin


- --
- -- Paul Jasper
- -- RATIONAL
- -- Object-Oriented Products
- --

------------------------------

Date: 30 Jul 93 12:54 CST
From: Wolfe@act-12-po.act.org
Subject: Chili VS Jalapeno

I am ready to harvest a few quarts of chilis and jalapenos from my
garden. I've seen a few recipes for jalapeno or serrano peppers in beer,
but haven't seen any for chilis. I prefer the taste of chilis (to
jalapenos) in my cooking. My question is: How do jalapenos and
chilis compare for flavor and burn in beers? Is there any noticable
difference between them when they've been roasted and tossed into the
secondary? Also, can chilis be safely substituted for Jalapenos in a
recipe without fear of burning the lips off of one's face?

Ed Wolfe
WOLFE@ACT-12-PO.ACT.ORG
Iowa City, Iowa

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 13:58:47 EDT
From: lyons%adc3@swlvx2.msd.ray.com
Subject: Traditional Porter vs East Coast Porter?

In HBD #1193 Jim provides us with information on the 10th Annual Dixie
Cup Homebrew Competition. Thanks Jim, but could you please describe
the differences between a Traditional Porter and an East Coast
Porter. If you could name some commericial examples I could
experiment with my taste buds.

Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 16:18:14 EST
From: Ulick Stafford <ulick@michaelangelo.helios.nd.edu>
Subject: Efficiency question

James DiPalma mentions that his efficiency seems higher pre boil
than postboil. I am not going to deny the possibility that
precipitated break material could account for the difference, but is
it also possible that the temperature of the wort might be a factor
in the volume estimation? If you eyeball the volume of warm post
sparge preboil wort it is going to higher than at postchill
temperature by quite a bit. The sg at 80C is .971, at 90 .965, and
at 100 .958. At 20 C it is 998. (figures actually kg/m3/1000).
I usually measure both - but the initial sg is to see how much to
boil off, I I don't have volumes calibrated well anyway.

Also, why is everyone so concerned about Zima? It isn't beer and
doesn't pretend to be. It is aimed at the wine cooler-prepackaged
mixed drink crowd. A frined brought me back a Canadian drink called
Durango that was a fruit flavored malt beverage a few years ago, so Zima isn't
the first. It has a similar relationshiop to beer as a single malt
Scotch - an alcoholic drink made of malt, and noone complains about
Scotch. Give it a break! If you have to complain about Coor's use a better
reason - like Union relationships, Environmental damage, false advirtising
claims, or the fascist belief of the founder. Zima is surely one of their
venial sins, and it isn't as bad as Miller Clear, whcih does pretend to be a
beer.
__________________________________________________________________________
'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s@&* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng.
Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556
| ulick@darwin.cc.nd.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 18:16:18 EDT
From: dschultz@aol.com
Subject: West Coast Brewery addresses

Stephen Brent Peters asked in HBD 1193 about a publication with
mailing addresses for West Coast Breweries. I have a book titled
"Good Beer Guide/Breweries and Pubs of the Pacific Northwest"
written by Vince Cottone and published by Homestead Book Co.
of Seattle that fits the bill. My copy is (unfortunately) dated 1986, and I
don't know if there is an updated edition available. Email me if interested.

Dale Schultz

------------------------------


End of HOMEBREW Digest #1194, 08/02/93
*************************************
-------

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