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HOMEBREW Digest #1155
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 93/06/03 00:16:58
HOMEBREW Digest #1155 Thu 03 June 1993
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Microbrewery festival (Jpetty)
Re: Cloudy hoses/Bleach and SS (tmr1)
European BUD questions (Kurt Swanson)
iodine ("Spencer W. Thomas")
Weissbier available: Elkton MD (Matthew Mitchell)
Stainless Steel (George J Fix)
EasyLauter (Jamie Ide 02-Jun-1993 1044)
Wort Chiller to Sparge Heater (Jamie Ide 02-Jun-1993 1046)
Spruce and Oak Additions (Chris Cook)
Re: Iowa beers (atzeiner)
Zentners (Mark Garetz)
clorox and stainless steel ("John L. Isenhour")
Electronic Brewers in Portland (Jack St.Clair at fmccm6)
spruce beer (gmeier)
aha conference (Loren Carter)
Iowa beer, Scottish Ale (Jonathan G Knight)
Spruce Beers (Derrick Pohl)
Stainless Steel - Part 2 (George J Fix)
My Swollen Head, and Book Reviews (Martin A. Lodahl)
oktoberfest recipe ideas (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570)
How can I protect my stove? (Hal Laurent)
How can I protect my stove? (Hal Laurent)
Yeast history (Tom Lorelle)
California Festival of Beers & Style Question (TAN1)
What's the story with SA? ("EDWARD M. CROFT")
Using a freezer (SMUCKER)
Stoudt's Fest (RADAMSON)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 7:36:25 EDT
From: Jpetty@PICA.ARMY.MIL
Subject: Microbrewery festival
A recent HBD post mentioned the Second Great Eastern Invitational Microbrewery
festival in Adamstown Pa. This is just a bit further than I care to drive
(home from), however a local bartender thought a similar event was planned
for Bethlehem Pa. during July. Anyone have details on this ?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 08:04 EDT
From: tmr1@hotlg.att.com
Subject: Re: Cloudy hoses/Bleach and SS
I also suffer from the "cloudy hose" syndrome. I left mine soaking
overnight in a water/bleach (20:1) solution and it is permanently(?)
cloudy. Will this impair the use of the hose for racking? Will the
bleach leach? Can I do something to get the hose clear again? Maybe
boiling in water will do something to it.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Tom Romalewski
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1993 13:57:46 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Kurt Swanson <Kurt.Swanson@dna.lth.se>
Subject: European BUD questions
In HBD #1153, Glen Flowesr (GFLOWERS@LANDO.HNS.COM) wrote:
> In HBD #1152, Kurt Swanson writes:
>
> >In this country, Sweden, one can get US Bud (in all 3
> >strength classes - the least of which allowing it to be advertised on
> >tv), Schiltz, Michelob, Sam Adams (arggh!), Anchor Steam, and various
> >temporary products.
>
> I'm puzzled by two questions:
>
> 1) Why the (arggh!) after "Sam Adams"? Wouldn't you consider Sam's
> a better American brew than the first two brands on the list,
> (neither of which rated an "arrgh!"), and easily better than BUD?
I said arggh because I know the the mere mentioning of Sam Adams
products is enough to start an HBD trade war...
> 2) What is a temporary product?
>
"Systembolaget" likes to keep a permanent stock and a rotating stock -
always trying new brands for a short time. They buy them in massive
quantities [for example, they bought 500,000 bottles of the Belgian
De Koninck recently] at one time & get a great deal....
- --
Kurt Swanson, Dept. of Computer Science,
Lunds universitet. Kurt.Swanson@dna.lth.se
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 08:45:21 EDT
From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu>
Subject: iodine
I'm sure this has been covered before, but here I go again....
The last batch I made, I did the iodine test two ways: 1. I drained a
little out of the spigot at the bottom of my mash/lauter tun (Gott
cooler with copper-pipe manifold). This tested completely starch free
after 20 minutes (the first time I tested it). 2. I pushed the spoon
into the top of the mash and let some fluid run into it. This never
tested clear, even after 1.5 hours.
So which one should I believe? I got a great (for me) extraction rate
of 31 pts/lb/gal, with wonderfully clear sweet wort, so it would seem
that conversion was indeed complete (maybe at 20 minutes).
A related question: Foster suggests (in _Pale Ale_) that you should
mash for 1.5 hours for flavor development, even if conversion is
complete sooner. Any comments on this?
=Spencer
------------------------------
Date: 02 Jun 93 10:33:32 EST
From: Matthew Mitchell <IEKP898%tjuvm.bitnet@TJUVM.TJU.EDU>
Subject: Weissbier available: Elkton MD
From: Matthew Mitchell
On the way back from the NCAA lacrosse finals (Syracuse 13, NC 12 in what
is arguably the best tournament game ever-see it on CBS Sunday at 3:30 ET)
I took a detour off I-95 to avoid traffic, toll, and poor PA state liquor
stores.
I discovered that my favored shop: State Line Liquors in Elkton, Maryland
(between I-95 and Newark, Delaware on MD route 279) has an excellent
selection of Weissbier, and a number of Belgian beers, all available as
singles. Selection of US microbrews is fair to middlin': there is SN and
Pete's and a few other more common varieties, but I've seen better at
other places.
They have an 800 number (I think it's 800-345-WINE, but _please_ check
first!) The booze prices are significantly better than most neighboring
states, and their wine selection is decent (if you can afford it, the Latour
and Palmer is right out on the shelves, but of recent vintage rather than
classic) So if you are traveling 95 south, exit northbound at MD 279 or
southbound at DE 896 (then turn left at the football stadium and left
again on 279) You'll save more than the toll!
No connection of course: just a satisfied Pennsylvania refugee!
Howzat!?!
Matthew Mitchell <iekp898@tjuvm.tju.edu> <iekp898@tjuvm.bitnet>
Former Brewmaster, Penthouse Brewing Co., Haverford PA
makers of Barclay Beer, Penthouse Brown Ale, and Big B Malt Liquor
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 09:42:34 -0500
From: gjfix@utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix)
Subject: Stainless Steel
As one the people who raised concerns on HBD about the use of chlorine
with stainless equipment, perhaps a few additional remarks might be helpful.
The two alloys which are most relevant to brewing are the following (shown
with their % concentrations):
type Cr Ni C Si Mn P S Mo
------ ---- ---- ---- ---- ----- --- --- ----
304 18-20 8-12 .08 1 2 .045 .03 0
316 16-18 10-12 .08 1 2 .045 .03 2-3
The 316 alloy differs from 304 by its 2-3 % molybdenum (Mo) content. It
is the latter which gives this alloy complete resistance to chlorine.
However, 316 is very expensive, very difficult to cold work, and not
used to make 5 gallon soda pop kegs. The best of the latter are made from
304. This alloy has some resistance to chlorine, but not like 316. Studies
done with brewing in mind concluded the following:
1. The relevant parameter is the concentration of the free available
chlorine (FAC), independent of its source (bleach, chlorine powder,
etc.).
2. At room temperature (and a normal pH), 304 is resistant to chlorine
as long as the FAC is below 250 mg/l.
Since our standard 1 oz. bleach per gallon gives a FAC of 100 mg/l, one
could conclude that chlorine bleach can be used to sanitize ss kegs.
Careful brewers will reject this conclusion. The factor of 2.5 is cutting
it too close. More to the point, the studies were based on a one time
application of the chemical to the metal, and does not take into account
the effects of long time use. I use boiling water or iodophor simply
because I am not prepared to gamble with ss equipment that I hope will
be with me in the long run.
I am not against taking gambles in other aspects of brewing, like taking
ones standard Vienna formulation, doubling the hop rate, and sending
a few bottles to Jeff Frane. Actually a much bigger gamble, and one I
may live to regret, is ***not*** doubling the hop rate and sending some
to Jeff! Gambles like this are done everyday, but hopefully not with valued
equipment.
There is, in addition, a completely different aspect to these issues.
My grandfather was a brewer who like many of his generation absolutely
detested "chemical" cleaners and sanitizers. For him it was hot water,
18 hr. brew days, and maybe some vinegar and wet steam. I do not fully
agree with this viewpoint, but recalling some excellent homebrews I have
judged at various points in the past that have been ruined by residual
chlorine, there are some merits to this point of view. That is way I
was initially excited about peracetic acid. However and alas, the version
Diversity and others is producing for the brewing industry is not for us.
Even a drop or two of their concentrated solution on our hands would
turn them white as snow. These products were produced with closed CIP
systems in mind, and not the way we do things. It would therefore appear
that boiling water or iodophor are our best options for ss. If the latter
is used I would also recommend rinsing before use with water or sterile
beer, although there are many successful brewers who do not rinse.
George Fix
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 07:46:14 PDT
From: Jamie Ide 02-Jun-1993 1044 <ide@studio.enet.dec.com>
Subject: EasyLauter
My last six batches have included partial mashes of 4-6# malt, which
gets combined with extract for the boil. I've found partial mashing to
be easy, once I got the hang of it, and I can taste the improvement
it's made in my beer.
The only problems I've had with the process have occurred during
sparging. Up until my last batch, I'd been using a cylindrical water
cooler (it came with my house, you can't fight destiny) with a grain
bag, which sat on a vegetable steamer, as a lauter tun. I got lousy
extraction with this method -- the one time I carefully measured gave
me 17 points! -- and I had to recycle 1 gallon (out of 2.5) of runoff
before it cleared. The poor extraction may have been due to my grain
bag's mesh sides and a poor crush. I quickly grew tired of going
through the extra work of mashing and then having to add 6 lb. of
extract to get a reasonable SG, so it was time to look for a Better
Way.
In the grandest tradition of science, I appropriated someone else's
idea. Jack Schmidling's EashyMasher (tm?), sounded, well, easy and
cheap to make. I decided to adapt the idea to my lauter tun. I poked
around the hardware store and found a PVC connector which would screw
onto my valve (the plastic one with the red lever, though it may fit a
drum tap too). This connector ended in barbs which fit 3/4" plastic
tubing. I attached a couple of inches of that to extend the pick-up
tube, and fixed a few inches of rolled up screen, cut out of a broken
window, on with a hose clamp. Total cost was about $4.
I've tried it on one batch and it performed impressively. The runoff
cleared after only two cups! I couldn't calculate my extraction
because I ran some extra off for canning yeast starters, but I hit my
target gravity which I'd predicted using 25 point extraction. A big
improvement, though I think a better crush will improve it further.
Not having to recirculate a gallon saved me some time, and clean-up was
easier. An unmitigated success.
I recommend giving this a try if you're currently using a grain bag or
a Zapap system. Almost every brewer has a bucket with a valve on it,
and for $4 you can convert it to an EasyLauter tun.
Jamie Ide ide@studio.enet.dec.com
Disclaimer: I only know Jack through the HBD and the EasyLauter is too
cheap to sell.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 07:47:15 PDT
From: Jamie Ide 02-Jun-1993 1046 <ide@studio.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Wort Chiller to Sparge Heater
I'll be going all grain soon, and I have an idea for heating sparge
water. I don't have a second large boiler to heat the water, and I
collect the runoff of my partial mashes in my boiling kettle, so I can't
use that. What I was thing of doing is running my immersion wort
chiller (aka that coil of Cu tubing currently sitting in my basement)
backwards.
That is, immerse the chiller in a pot of hot (boiling?) water and
run tap water through it to heat sparge water. By playing with the
flow rate and the water temp., I ought to be able to get it up to temp.
easily.
This would also give a couple of advantages:
I could stop the flow when the runoff sg dropped and not have any
leftover water. With practice, I could even use the water that the
chiller sits in.
I could easily hook up a "showerhead" to the hose output and get a
nicely distributed flow over the mash.
Has anyone tried this? Any opinions?
Jamie Ide ide@studio.enet.dec.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1993 14:52:49 GMT
From: "UARS::COOK"@CDHF1.GSFC.NASA.GOV (Chris Cook)
Subject: Spruce and Oak Additions
Darren Aaberge asked about adding spruce clippings to his beer.
I've made a number of spruce beers and I enjoy the flavor a lot. I started
with Papazian's Goat Scrotum Ale and have stayed close to that style,
adding spruce to a rich, dark base for my spruce beers. Unfortunately,
given that I don't have a spruce tree, I've depended on spruce extract, so
my experiences may not translate completely but they may still be useful.
For the first few spruce batches, I threw in a bottle of essence at the
beginning of the boil. This was a lot, and I think compares to about a
quart of new spruce growth. The house smelled wonderful and, when the beer
was done, the spruce flavor was smooth and rich without being overpowering.
Keep in mind that I was making a Spuce Beer, so I wanted spruce to be one
of the major flavors.
After a few batches, I got to wondering that wonderful aroma when I boiled
meant that I was boiling off the aromatics. For the next Spruce Beer
batch, I waited until just before the boil ended to add it. I knew the
flavor would be stronger, so I added half as much as usual.
This beer was, to be kind, different. The flavors were too bold and too
harsh, without the richness I'd expected. This might have been an artifact
of the essence, and may not apply to fresh spruce. There may be no bad
beers, but this was certainly not a good beer, and I ended up dumping the
last half.
Darren said that he didn't want the Spruce overpowering the hops, so a pint
sounds about right. I'd use a quart, but then I'm already a convert. Not
knowing, I wouldn't worry about bruising the branches; just throw them in
whole at the same time as the boiling hops.
[A side note: I hold off the boiling hops until I've gotten a good, obvious
hot break - about 10 minutes after the boil starts. If I don't wait, I
don't seem to get as much hops bitterness. Someone said once that the
uncoagulated proteins coat the hops, limiting hops utilization. I don't
have much hard evidence of this, but I've been following the advise.]
As a counter-example, I've also used oak chips and oak essence in IPAs. (I
know that it's not in style any more, but I like it as a subtle addition.)
In this case I added the chips or the essence to the secondary. The
batches with the oak chips were good; the batch with oak essence wasn't
good at all. It had something like the real oak flavor, but with harsh,
strange overtones that were unsuitable; eventually it had to be tossed.
Let us know how things work.
Chris Cook cook@cdhf1.gsfc.nasa.gov
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 93 09:55:11 CDT
From: atzeiner@iastate.edu
Subject: Re: Iowa beers
Anthony writes:
>Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 11:13:42 CDT
>From: "Anthony Johnston" <anthony@chemsun.chem.umn.edu>
>Subject: Iowa Beers
>
>Just thought I'd share a pleasant experience I had this weekend. While
>visiting Cedar Rapids, I dropped down to the Amana Colonies (19 miles
>south) and was pleasantly surprised to find in addition to several small
>wineries.... a brewery! Millstream brewery is in Amana (Main Amana) and
>has 3 beers on tap and in bottles; their Schild Brau was the best IMHO,
>amber in color and not too hoppy. They also had a very nice wheat
>beer. Their lager however could stand some improvement, no one in my
>group really cared much for it.
>
>And while I'm on the topic of Iowa, has anyone out there been to the
>microbrewery in Alden, Iowa? Any idea how far it is from C.R. and if ti
>is worth the trip. Private email please.
>
>Anthony Johnston
>Chemist, Homebrewer, Beer junkie.
I think you probably mean Adel, Iowa which is west of Des Moines. The Old
Depot brewpub just open there in 1991. My wife and I just went there a couple
weeks ago. They make 3 or 4 beers(I think an ale, lager, porter and something
else) and 1 or 2 beers of the month. When we were there they had a Weisse and
an IPA which were both really good. I talked to someone who went there
earlier this year and had a good Irish Red Ale. The food there is also very
good. The restaurant is not what you would probably think of a normal brewpub
though. Its a new, modern-looking building which is separate from the
brewery. I would recommend going there if you're in the area.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 7:54:22 PDT
From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz@hoptech.com>
Subject: Zentners
There have been a few messages on the digest recently concerning the term
"zentner". A zentner is 50kg (~110 lb) of hops. It is most commonly used
in England as a measure of crop yield. As far as I know, hops are not
actually sold in "zentners", but in 100kg (~220 lbs) bales. This is slightly
larger than our US bale which is 200 lbs.
Mark from HopTech
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1993 10:33:09 CDT
From: "John L. Isenhour" <isenhour@lambic.fnal.gov>
Subject: clorox and stainless steel
Al (korz@iepubj.att.com) writes:
>I've read reports in the HBD of pitting (especially on the welds) in Stainless
>Steel kegs after repeated use of Bleach solution in the kegs. I trust the
>cumulative experiences of homebrewers well beyond what I read in a table
(here here, didn't one of those tables say that grape juice ate teflon?:-)
Here's yet another data point (YADP)
I believe that problems may arise when brewers use a bleach solution that is
too concentrated. I started kegging in 1978 using cornelius style kegs and
1980 with SS 1/2 barrels. I still have those same kegs. They have been
sanitized with bleach solution every time and believe me these kegs have seen a
lot of activity:-) I have yet to see any wear of any kind on these lovelies,
beyond the occasional need to replace the O rings and brass wing nuts on the
cornelius's, and the bungs and figure 8 gaskets on 1/2 barrels. I had
bartending experience prior to the use of these kegs where I learned about
chlorine test strips to determine the sanitizing power of the solution. I use
in the ballpark of 50 ppm as determined by these strips and I havent had any
problems with the results.
When I work with newer brewers, one pretty common trait is to watch them splash
horribly (to me anyway) concentrated solutions of bleach water over everything
associated with the brewing process. I usually take some of my test strips
along and show them that they are using solutions that are 'off the scale' of
the strips capacity (it only reads up to 200 ppm). Its easy to believe that
'more is better', but when it gets to the point where you may sustain damage by
contact to yourself, it may be time to examine your technique. I always wear
eye protection/gloves but at ~50 ppm I dont get too worried about burning holes
in my lab jacket or brief skin contact - or eating holes in Stainless Steel.
Dont get me wrong, I'm not knocking idophor (I used it all the time when I was
doing hospital OR work), but bleach is inexpensive (esp. when you dilute it
properly), easily available, effective, and pretty safe when used properly.
John Isenhour
Hop Devil and National Beer Judge
john@hopduvel.UUCP
isenhour@lambic.fnal.gov
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 09:43:04 PST
From: Jack St.Clair at fmccm6 <Jack_St.Clair_at_fmccm6@ccm.hf.intel.com>
Subject: Electronic Brewers in Portland
In HBD#1154, Russ Wigglesworth asked for a headcount. Since the two
messages that I sent to him were returned with "Host Unknown" I'm
posting my reply here. Please excuse the bandwidth and hope to see you
all in Portland.
Russ, count us in. My wife and I are both planning to attend.
Jack St.Clair
Folsom, CA 95630
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1993 13:19:35 -0600
From: gmeier@ncsa.uiuc.edu
Subject: spruce beer
Darren writes on the subject of spruce beer:
>"My biggest question right now is when to add the spruce. Should I boil it
>for
>60 minutes or should I add it at the end of the boil?"
I have no experience in using spruce clippings in beer or anything else,
but the terpenes responsible for much of the characteristic aroma are
fairly volatile, and I suspect they would steam distill out during a
prolonged boil. I'd add them at or near the end of the boil.
Gary Meier
FMC Corporation
Princeton, NJ 08543
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 11:59:57 -0700
From: Loren Carter <lcarter@claven.idbsu.edu>
Subject: aha conference
Is anybody out there in need of a room for the AHA conference in Portland,
Oregon this July?
I have a room at the Marriott where the conference is being held that I would
share with one or two people.
If you are interested contact me by email.
Loren Carter
Chemistry Department
Boise State University
Boise, Idaho
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 12:47:29 cdt
From: Jonathan G Knight <KNIGHTJ@GRIN.EDU>
Subject: Iowa beer, Scottish Ale
Anthony Johnston wrote commenting on Amana beer and asking about a
microbrewery in "Alden."
I'm relatively new to the state (4 years), and my spouse and I have been
procreating since we arrived. The rug rats, unfortunately, keep me from
getting around much. However, I concur with Anthony's appraisal of Amana
beer (good amber, not-so-hot-but-not-too-bad-either lager) which I have been
able to get frequently on tap locally and in bottles. (I have my first trip
to the brewery itself planned in a couple weeks - provided we can get a good
babysitter.)
But I'm confuced about "Alden." Do you mean "Adell?" (It's entirely
possible that there is a place called Alden that I haven't heard of - please
correct me if so.) Adell is on Route 6 just West of Des Moines, and no I
haven't been there either. I've heard they have a very interesting menu, and
their beer is available locally in bottles. I've only had a chance to sample
the porter, which won't knock your socks off, but I found it very pleasant.
The nake of this beer is "Old Depot." If I ever get over there I'll post a
review.
- --------------------
David Hinz posts an enthusiastic report of his Scottish Ale brewed to
Papazian's "style guide" specs. David, would you care to share the specifics
of your efforts? I'm an extract brewer, but I'd still like to see your grain
bill if you did an all-grain recipe, so I can try to approximate with
extracts, and I'd be curious about your choice of hops and yeast as well.
Jonathan Knight
Grinnell, Iowa
P.S. speaking of Iowa beer etc. - Tom Calahan, my e-mail reply to you
bounced. Are you still on the net?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1993 10:55:21 -0800
From: pohl@unixg.ubc.ca (Derrick Pohl)
Subject: Spruce Beers
In HBD #1154, Darren (dra@jsc-ws.sharpwa.com) writes:
>I have a spruce tree growing in my front yard and I have been wondering about
>using some of the fresh spring growths in a brew. Does anyone have any
>experience using spruce in beer?
>[cut]
>My biggest question right now is when to add the spruce. Should I boil it for
>60 minutes or should I add it at the end of the boil? Any suggestions or
>comments would be welcome. I don`t want the spruce to be overpowering, yet I
>want it to be evident along with the hops.
I've brewed two batches of spruce beer: one a dark ale similar to the
recipe you propose, and the other a light lager. I used about 100g (~4
oz.) of green spring Sitka spruce growth in each one, boiled for about one
hour. Personally, I preferred the light lager, but the dark ale was OK
too. The flavour lent by the spruce surprised me. It wasn't at all like a
tree, or a forest, or sap, or anything else one might associate with a
spruce tree. Instead, it's a sweet, almost berry-like taste, with a bit of
sourness thrown in. I can see why Papazian thought it tasted like
Pepsi-Cola. It's subtle, yet distinct. I have also found that it
dissipates fairly quickly in the bottle. My spruce lager has been in the
bottle for a little over a month now, and the spruce character has subsided
considerably, which is OK because it was a bit much at first.
Whether you go the ale or lager route, keep the hops light to bring out the
subtle spruce flavour, and you should probably use a little extra spruce in
a darker recipe.
To brew, perchance to dream....
- -----
Derrick Pohl (pohl@unixg.ubc.ca)
UBC Faculty of Graduate Studies, Vancouver, B.C.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 13:25:54 -0500
From: gjfix@utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix)
Subject: Stainless Steel - Part 2
Shortly after sending my post on stainless to HBD I started to worry that
my phrase "boiling water or iodophor" may be misinterpreted as one and not
two alternate procedures. In particular, one should ***never*** add an
iodophor to water at an elevated temperature, since potentially toxic
fumes can result. The version of iodophor I use is called Accord II, and
is made by Diversity. This is the version that has the iodine bound up in
phosphoric acid; the other versions have it bound up in detergents. Diversity
states that their product if applied at 110 F can be used to clean. I tried
this once and the smell was not pleasant. The point where it would be
dangerous is much higher, but I bet it happens below 212 F.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 11:47:58 PDT
From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah@PacBell.COM>
Subject: My Swollen Head, and Book Reviews
My goodness! HOMEBREW Digest #1153 seems to have been the Martin
Lodahl Commemorative Issue! Prof. George Fix called to mind a truly
delightful afternoon:
> I brought some fresh bottles of the Grand Cru to the Beer Fest at
> Temecula, Ca. for Martin Lodahl to taste. He gave it high marks
> for both authenticity and overall quality. Comments, Martin?
Sure! I can't imagine a better antidote for an 11-hour drive than
to sit sipping beer and talking brewing with G. Fix and D. Richman!
And I can't remember when I've had a beer that delighted me as much
as that Celis Grand Cru. It's solidly in the Belgian Strong Ale
tradition, delightfully smooth and complex, different flavors
arriving in succession. Before that, the White was the only Celis
product I'd tried, and was delighted with it both bottled and on
draft. One of these days I'd very much like to get to that brewery,
and try the rest of the line!
By the way, I would have been perfectly happy with just that
afternoon, but as an Extra Added Bonus there was the Southern
California Beer Fest put on by the Barley Bandits and the Maltose
Falcons, in Temecula. It was truly superb.
In the same issue, Jeff Frane was speaking of last year's AHA
Conference, and said:
> ... the "lectures" are the least interesting part -- hanging
> out, eating and drinking with other homebrewers, _that's_ the real
> fun...and the most educational. I say this as one of last year's
> speakers!
And one of the better ones, at that! I very much enjoyed Jeff's
presentation on wort chillers. I also agree with his priorities --
the people were certainly the best part.
> ... There were a couple of really interesting
> presentations, but the high points for me were meeting George &
> Laurie Fix, having dinner next to Charlie Olchowski, finally
> meeting Martin Lodahl in person ...
That guy, again!
> ... and doing a walking tour of Milwaukee with Russ, and...
> oh, yeah, that beer. And judging in the 2nd round.
Where Jeff got to meet Eric Warner's to-die-for Weizen.
> And Fred Eckhardt's cheese and beer tasting. And...
>
> Speeches? We don't need no stinkin' speeches.
Fortunately, in HOMEBREW Digest #1154 Nick Zentena restored my
perspective (I may some day be able to find a hat that fits, again)
by asking:
> Finally is Brewing Techniques going to be review
> books other then those available from the AHA?
As the author of the book review in question, I have to tell you
that BT didn't ask me to write it. They asked me to write
_something_, leaving it pretty much up to me what I wrote. I like
that particular book (Jean-Xavier Guinard's "Lambic"), I've read it
a number of times, and so I thought I could review it without doing
it (or BT) too much violence. As far as I know, there's neither a
connection nor is there antagonism between BT and any part of AoB,
including the AHA and Brewers' Publications. So the answer is yes,
there's no preference at all being extended towards any one
publisher, in BT's reviews.
= Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Systems Analyst =
= malodah@Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) =
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1993 14:04:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: tony@spss.com (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570)
Subject: oktoberfest recipe ideas
Most German Oktoberfest beers have a starting gravity of 1.052 -
1.055, which puts them more in line with the AHA "Vienna" style.
These beers are amber-colored (aim for 10L - 12L), malt-accented
lagers. From the point of view of recipe formulation, you have the
choice of using crystal malts, munich malt, or some combination.
In their book, George and Laurie Fix present recipes using crystal
malt. Depending on your setup and extract efficiency, for a 5-
gallon brew you might use a grain bill such as the following:
8 - 9 pounds pilsner malt
6 oz crystal malt 10L
6 oz crystal malt 60L
6 oz crystal malt 120L
The above grain bill specifies pilsner malt, and you should use the
finest German or Belgian pilsner malt. Lacking that, use a good
U.S. 2-row pale malt. The crystal malt blend gives the beer the
requisite color, body, and sweetness.
In subsequent articles and postings to HBD, George Fix has reported
using mixes of DeWolf-Cosyns Cara-Vienne (20L) and Cara-Munich
(80L) malts. In the first issue of Brewing Techniques, it appears
that George Fix has settled on a mix of Cara-Vienne and Special B.
Using the BRF program, the following grain bill should produce a
color in the desired range:
9 pounds pilsner malt
1 pound Cara-Vienne (20L)
1.5 ounces Special B
As an alternative to the above grain bills, one could explore the
use of Munich malt, which should give color and malt flavor. As an
example, consider the following grain bill:
5 pounds pilsner malt
4 pounds Munich malt
1 pound U.S. cara-pils
1/4 pound crystal malt 40L
Note the high fraction of Munich malt in the grain bill. As U.S.
Munich malt can be of variable quality, brewers have raised the
concern that the resulting beer will suffer from grain harshness.
However, with the availability of DeWolf-Cosyns Munich malt, as
well as German Munich malts, surely such a recipe should be tried.
For hops, use fine European Noble hops, and hop to 22 - 25 IBUs (or
roughly 6 AAUs). As an example, the hop schedule might be:
0.85 ounces Tettnang (alpha=4.5) at 45 minutes until end of boil
1/2 ounce Styrian Goldings (alpha=4.9) at 30 minutes until end of
boil
1/2 ounce Saaz (alpha=3) at 15 minutes until end of boil
This style is not a bitter style, so total hopping is kept down.
Nor are pronounced hop flavor or aroma desired, so the last hopping
is 15 minutes before end of boil.
Use a good lager yeast and proper fermentation temperatures.
Wyeast "Bavarian" lager works very well. Ferment at 50 degrees F
or so. Rack the beer to secondary, and lager for 4 to 8 weeks.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 15:05:20 EDT
From: Hal Laurent <laurent@tamdno.ENET.dec.com>
Subject: How can I protect my stove?
Uncle Schweem:
Hey, next time you call tell me what your phone number is!!!!
-Hal
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 15:12:12 EDT
From: Hal Laurent <laurent@tamdno.ENET.dec.com>
Subject: How can I protect my stove?
Whoops, sorry about the previous post! I mailed the wrong file!
(insert sheepish grin here)
I've recently gone all-grain, and I must say I've found the improvement
in my beer to be considerable (although I *hate* how long it takes to
brew a batch). If it wasn't for the HBD, I'm sure I wouldn't have
gotten the nerve to try it yet. My thanks to all of you.
However, I still have a bit of a problem. I've been using a 33-quart
enameled canning pot over two burners of my (gas) stove. The problem
is that the stove top is getting really disfigured from the heat,
especially between the two burners. Some sort of brown deposit forms
on the white enameled stove surface that is darn near impossible to
remove.
Two questions:
1. Is there some method of removing these stains from the stove?
2. Would it help if I lined the stove top with aluminum foil or
some other material when doing the boil?
Hal Laurent
Baltimore, Maryland
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1993 17:01:26 -0400
From: lorelle@meglos.mdcorp.ksc.nasa.gov (Tom Lorelle)
Subject: Yeast history
This was given to me and I wonder if anyone can authenticate it.
__________________________________________
Solutions of The Secret of Alcoholic Fermentation
"Beer yeast, when dispersed in water, breaks down into an infinite
number of small spheres. If these spheres are transferred to an aqueous
solution of sugar they develop into small animals. They are endowed with
a sort of suction trunk with which they gulp up the sugar from the
solution. Digestion is immediately and clearly recognizable because of
the discharge of excrements. These animals evacuate ethyl alcohol from
their bowels and carbon dioxide from their urinary organs. Thus one can
observe how a specifically lighter fluid is exuded from the anus and
rises vertically whereas a stream of carbon dioxide is ejected at very
short intervals from their enormously large genitals."
By Friedrich Woehler and Justus von Liebig.
Published in the Annals of Chemistry, Volume 29, 1839
Thanks,
Tom
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 15:39:33 PDT
From: TAN1%SysEng%DCPP@cts27.cs.pge.com
Subject: California Festival of Beers & Style Question
For those of you unlucky folks who don't live in the central
coast of California, you missed an excellent event over the
holiday weekend - The California Festival of Beers, held in San
Luis Obispo. This event has been annual for at least 5 years and
features the majority of California micro-brewers displaying
their craft. There were 65 brewies present this year with a
relaxed atmosphere and almost no lines anywhere. The exception
to this was the line to get into the event, which seemed endless
but really moved along pretty well. There were too many beers to
critique, but who wants to be critical at an event like this
anyway? The afternoon spent in pursuit of great beer and amazing
scenery is an annual event that overshadows even my wedding
aniversary, which my wife has reluctently given up the last 5
years running. To anyone within driving distance, go to it. I
have a friend who comes in from Phoenix every year for this
event. Good time, highly recommended, always held on Memorial
Day weekend.
In HBD 1154 Stuart Galt gives a recipe of the following:
>Basic recipe:
>19 lb Klages
>3 lb Munich
>1.5 lb Crystal
>1 lb Wheat
>2oz Tettenanger, 2oz Centennial (for 60 minutes)
>2oz Cascade (5 minutes)
and asks what style it is. Based on the recipe my program, the
Brewer's Workshop, predicts the OG to be 1.056, color to be 8
degree lovibond, and bitterness to be about 55 IBU's. This is
based on an 11 gallon boil, an extraction efficiency of 70%, and
20 lovibond crystal. By these parameters alone the style
would fit an India Pale Ale almost like a glove.
But one must use caution when designing recipes to meet a style.
IPA is classically fermented in oak, so the use of oak chips
would round out the style. IPA should use british Hops, not
German or American. The use of Tettenanger, a finishing hop, in
the full boil is also unusual and wasteful in that the excellent
aromatics will be boiled off. The bottom line is that there are
many beers worth brewing, even if they don't fit a style exactly.
Darryl Richman has an excellent article in the new magazine,
Brewing Techniques, which deals with the topic of recipe design.
Highly recommended to anyone with a casual or better interest in
the hobby.
Disclaimer - I wrote and sell the Brewer's Workshop, so my
opinions are necessarily biased.
Tom Nelson - TKO Software - (805) 481-4900 - CI$: 72310,2710
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1993 18:55:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: "EDWARD M. CROFT" <CROFTE@delphi.com>
Subject: What's the story with SA?
What's the story with Sam Adams. It seems it's always getting trashed here.
A lot of people in my area (Southern MA) are buying Sam Adams. (Course there's
not a whole lot of selection in my area.) Is Sam Adams Ale and Lager really
that bad, or is it that people just don't like Koch(?). I'm new, so forgive me
for not being up on the controversy.
****
Finally tasted my first homebrew after only a week of aging in the bottle.
Not Bad... I made an Irish Stout. I'm letting the rest age, but tasting one
bottle a week to get an idea of the progression as it ages. I may not go back
to the packy again. My next effort will either be a wheat or a porter.
***
TIA for your responses to my Sam Adams question.
Big Ed
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1993 21:13:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: SMUCKER@UTKVX.UTCC.UTK.EDU
Subject: Using a freezer
I think that this is a good question and if I knew how easy it was to use a
freezer and how cheap used chest freezer where I would have started with a
freezer rather that a fridge. I am sure this information has been it HBD
before but I don't think it hurts to add another data point.
Using a freezer works very well. I have both a fridge and a freezer for my
beer and the freezer works the best and has the most useable space. This
is of course a chest type freezer and not an up right. The Thermostat I
use is a Johnson Controls, A19AAT-1C, PORTABLE THERMOSTAT, RANGE 20/80 DEG F,
SPST, OPEN LOW, STYLE 1.
I purchased it from the Brewhaus, 4955 Ball Camp Pike, Knoxville, TN 37921.
phone 1-800-638-2437. price was $ 64.45. It works very well!
Hunter room air conditioner thermostats are also reported to work but are
limited to a lower temperature of about 40 der F. You want to go lower for
long term storage or lagering. Cost about $ 40.00
Dave Smucker, Brewing beer, not making jelly!!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1993 21:25:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: RADAMSON@delphi.com
Subject: Stoudt's Fest
Hope to meet any of the fellow HBD'ers at Stoudt's 2nd Annual Event. I don't
quite know where I'll be - I've donated my efforts to the cause as I did last
year to where-ever Ed & Carol put me. I lived in Philly last year so it
was an easy task. This year I'm treking from Long Island with family in tow.
I'll be at every session, so look me up. Just say "Home Brew Digest", I should
be able to recognize that!
>Jim Busch - I hope to meet you - you'll be at Baltimore Brewing, is that right?
Side note: I had been away from HBD awhile, and while catching up on my reading,
I found that what I had done to my Honey Wheat Ale (without knowing) was to get
it closer to a "White". It had started out to be a quick, simple wheat beer:
6.6 lb Northwestern Wheat Extract & 3 lbs honey, Cascades up front with Haller-
tau to finish. Simple, just rack and can (I'm that 5 Liter Keg guy). But for
some reason I hesitated when racking. It needed something... Somehow came up
with Coriander and Orange Peel - I must have read it long ago and just filed.
Anyway, I can't wait for it (but I will). Question: Does it Clear? or does it
stay rather cloudy? Hope I have some to take to Stoudt's.. enough is enough.
Later.
Richard Adamson Brewer, Patriot (NOT Patriots), Steeler Fan.
/ex
/exit
/EXIT
/HELP
(how embarassing, I can't get out. ;-)
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1155, 06/03/93
*************************************
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