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HOMEBREW Digest #1129
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 93/04/28 00:18:36
HOMEBREW Digest #1129 Wed 28 April 1993
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
SIGNOFF (dcse20516)
Decoction mashing... (David McDow)
old style brewing (ROB THOMAS)
Nottingham yeast problem ? (Jpetty)
thanks to hbd (KLIGERMAN)
Guinness and N20 ("Anderso_A")
kegging pressures (JUKNALIS)
Typical Lager Fermentation Time? (Randy Smith)
N2O (Ed Hitchcock)
Addr: Premier Malt (RKING)
RE: 2124 Bohemian (James Dipalma)
RE: Soda Adjuncts (""Robert C. Santore"")
Alcohol and other drugs (Ted Manahan)
BCI phone number (BCI phone # 27-Apr-1993 1106 -0400)
Old Dominion Brewing Co (Roy Rudebusch)
Old Dominion Brewing Co. (roy.rudebusch)
Clockwise Hops (POLLARD)
Brew Ha Ha address (Stephen Brent Peters)
Carbonation, Nitrogen, Yeast (Jack Schmidling)
Brewing partners? (LYONS)
Guinness (korz)
Micros using dry yeast? (LYONS)
Question on Whitbread History (LYONS)
Re: Growing Hops Horizontally (Alan Edwards)
Priming Scotch Ale ("William A Kitch")
Re: British Brews/Chimay yeast/O2/Hop growth (korz)
Help! Overbubbling! (Jay Kirschenbaum)
southpaw hops (Brian Bliss)
organizing a BREW-OFF!! (MEHTA01)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1993 21:10:50 EDT
From: dcse20516@topcat.bsc.mass.edu
Subject: SIGNOFF
SIGNOFF
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1993 00:14:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: David McDow <dmcdow@emx.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: Decoction mashing...
My first post to this here forum (gulp)
I am an all grain brewer, (7 batches) and have been doing the one step
infusion method of mashing grains. The last 2 batches have been somewhat
of a disappointment. They have been wheat beers, and my extraction has
been poor. Previous to these 2 attempts, all have been barley batches and
extraction has been acceptable. Someone (sorry forgot) mentioned that
wheat beers should be decocted.
I would like to learn more about decoction mashing. If anyone would
care to share their method I'd be appreciative.
Hanky (Thanx)
dave
dmcdow@emx.cc.utexas.edu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 11:11:36 MET DST
From: ROB THOMAS <THOMASR@EZRZ1.vmsmail.ethz.ch>
Subject: old style brewing
hello all,
Daniel mentioned that he was thinking of brewing in an old/ancient
way. I thought I'd send this extract in, for it's general
interest:
Extracted without permission from Corran's History of Brewing:
.......The mash-tun, according to Nordland, who calls
it the filter vat, was the only specialised piece of
brewing equipment; it was generally reserved for brewing,
whereas other vessels might be used for different purposes.
Filter vats were of coopered wooden construction, and some
had individual staves lengthened to make legs. Others sat on
tripods or T-shaped supports. Nordland's investigation
extended to philological aspects of brewing, and he shows
that one of the names for the filter vat is related to
stampr or stumpf, the stub of a tree, and hence to
wooden vessels or containers made by hollowing out logs.
Such vessels predated coopered vessels, but in more
recent times were used only for crushing grain or bark
into flour or for storing dry goods such as flour. Reference
is also made to a trough-like filter vat made from a
hollowed-out trunk and kept together by strong wooden
half hoops and cross pieces at the ends. Taps were made
of wood, generally beech, until well into the nineteenth
century, when brass taps were introduced. Strainers for
the mash were a source of much variation. Straw was used
from Egyptian times for this purpose. The old Norwegian
practice was to put down a grating of sticks, usually of
juniper or alder, which supported the straw that did the
straining. Notched sticks were also used to support the
grating; later on came the wooden perforated bottom, which
has almost certainly been used since medieval times by brewers
in England. Juniper was widely used in Norwegian brewing,
both for flavouring the malt and the beer. It was also included
in the hot water used for cleaning brewing vessels. The
importance of cleanliness was well understood. Before brewing,
the wooden coopered vessels were made watertight by being put in
running water. They might be kept filled with clean water, but a
juniper extract was more efficacious, a decoction of the plant
being boiled and poured into the vessel. But in order to make
quite certain the vessels were not sour, the Norwegian brewers
used 'stone boiling'. The practice of using hot stones for boiling
liquids is known in many parts of the world, and is particularly
associated with the processes of brewing and cooking. Although
the use of stones for boiling has long vanished from Sweden and
Denmark, Nordland states there were stone breweries in Finland
and the Baltic countries within the twentieth century. The last
known survival, as far as is known, was at Newmannsdorf, near
Klagenfurt in Austria, where beer was still brewed by this method
up till 19I7, with the consumers' strong approval. This brewery
is now installed in the Technical Museum in Vienna and comprises
(a) A fireplace for heating the stones. This was usually a hole
dug in the brewery yard, 2m x 1m, bricked on three sides
with a sloping fourth side. Long logs and stones the size of a
child's head were piled in layers.
(b) A wooden mash-tun on wooden supports, with a low plat
form surrounding it; its outlet hole, which can be closed by
a bung on the end of a pole, gives on to a wooden trough
made from a hollow tree trunk.
(c) A primitive wooden pump, also made from a hollow log,
which pumps water into a trough that conveys the water to
the top of the mash-tun.
(d) Two other wooden vessels, one evidently for heating water
and the other for fermenting.
The brewing procedure was as follows:
1 The malt was ground and the mash-tun outlet prepared by covering
it with juniper twigs.
2 The stones were heated and dropped into the mash-tun,
which had been filled with water and with the prescribed
quantity of hops.
3 The liquor was boiled.(BY THE HOT STONES)
4 Cold water was added, followed by ground malt, and
mashing took place.
5 The mash was heated again, by means of larger hot stones
this time, and the mash worked with a mashing oar. (An
oaken cradle was used for carrying hot stones from the fire
place.) 6 When mashing was finished, more juniper branches were
put vertically into the mash to facilitate filtration, which
began after 1hr.
Meanwhile 'sparging' liquor was heated in the second vessel with
the help of stones. Wort was ladled back into the mash-tun if it
did not come through clear. When it was clear, it was run into the
fermenting tun, which was placed in the cellar. It was
easy to cool in the winter, but during the hot season it might be
chilled by means of cold water and ice in some sort of floating vessel.
The similarities of a good deal of this procedure to the findings of
Nordland in Norway make it probable that here we have a picture of early
ale and beer brewing in all the countries of Northern Europe.
Hops and Flavouring
The mixture of herbs known as gruit was extensively used in Scandinavia, just as
it was further south. The most important ingredient, certainly in Norway, was
the bog myrtle. Evidently the ale was potent when bog myrtle was added, and it
was often used in addition to hops. Hypericum perforatum, St John's wort, was
also used, as was yarrow (Achillea millefolium). Tansy and wormwood are also
mentioned. Pine roots and spruce chippings might sometimes be added to prevent
the ale from turning sour. There are further references to caraway, pepper and
even potato leaves and tobacco ('but that kind of ale was no good - it made them
sick'). Nordland considers that bog myrtle may still be used in western Norway.
Hops might be put in a bag and boiled in the wort, which saved subsequent
straining, or they might be strained off after boiling, for which purpose there
were hop strainers of basket work, vegetable fibres or hair, or even perforated
wooden boxes. Some indeed were small coopered vessels.
Yeast
Old Norwegian ale was top-fermented and the yeast was re
moved from the fermenter with a special skimming spoon,
though the brewer's right hand might also be employed. The
ale was generally drawn off before fermentation was finished,
and it fermented further in the cask. The brewing yeast was
used also for baking.
SORRY ABOUT THE VARYING LINE LENGTHS.
ROB. THOMAS
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 7:29:16 EDT
From: Jpetty@PICA.ARMY.MIL
Subject: Nottingham yeast problem ?
This is my second batch with nottingham ale yeast. After 48 hrs, still no
activity. With my first batch after 48 hrs I gave up and pitched a different
yeast which promptly got the bubbles going. Is Nottingham a particularly
slow starting yeast ? For info, the OG was 1.052 and I rehydrated the yeast
"by the book". I'm getting real nervous about letting it sit with no
activity (68 deg F) although I use an airlock.
------------------------------
Date: 27 Apr 1993 07:59:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: KLIGERMAN@herlvx.rtpnc.epa.gov
Subject: thanks to hbd
I didn't want to take up too much bandwidth but since the HBD has
been sparse lately, I wanted to thank the HBD and the people I
met in Finland. Because of contacts through the HBD I was able to meet
2 very nice homebrewers in Helsinki, Finland this past week. I wanted
to thank Kari Nikkanen and Hanna for showing us some of the best in Finnish
beers. For those who get a chance Koff porter and lager are quite good,
but the standard Lapin Kulta, while better than most American lagers, was
nondiscript and "watery." I also wanted to thank Ilkka Sysil and Anita Mikkonen
for inviting us to their home and sharing their excellent beer. They make a
truly fine lager--better than many I tried that won contests in the States.
They also have a very interesting engineered system that he might be
encouraged to share over the HBD.
Andy Kligerman and Lucy Adams
------------------------------
Date: 27 Apr 93 02:25:50 EST
From: "Anderso_A" <Anderso_A%55W3.CCBRIDGE.SEAE.mrouter@seaa.navsea.navy.mil>
Subject: Guinness and N20
Message Creation Date was at 27-APR-1993 07:18:00
In HBD 1128, Kari Nikkanen raises the question of using N2O:
"... since Guinness uses N2O, why shouldn't I."
A properly poured Guinness only uses 20% Nitrogen. The
remaining 80% is CO2. The Nitrogen definitely helps in the
smooth head, but most important is the baffle plate and
atomizer within the tap which "aerates" the stout.
------------------------------
Date: 27 Apr 1993 08:15:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: JUKNALIS@arserrc.gov
Subject: kegging pressures
I'm having trouble keeping a consistent pressure in my cornelius
kegs during the gradual emptying of the vessel. The first batch was fine
until the end when more & more pressure was needed to drive the beer out.
(It gravity siphoned fine during cleaning). Now after conditioning
sometimes I get barely a trickle and sometimes a cup of foam.
Anyone have any experience or ideas on this problem?
thanks in advance. Joe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 7:51:31 EDT
From: rjsmith@iron.afsac.wpafb.af.mil (Randy Smith)
Subject: Typical Lager Fermentation Time?
Started my first genuine lager yesterday that will go into my Hunter Air
Stat controlled fridge for fermenting. Most of what I've done in the past
is ales. Usually we wait 2-3 weeks and then bottle. I do have a hydrometer,
but never really use it. Just too lazy to track the readings, etc. Everything
has come out good for the past few years, so we've been doing ok so far.
I'm concerned with the lagering and how long it will take to be ready to
bottle. How long is probably long enough? I used 6.6# of liquid malt extract,
Y-yeast Bavarian yeast (forget the number), and will ferment at 48 degrees.
Used Tetnang and Saaz hops, but that shouldn't affect the ferment time, right?
Didn't take a hydro reading (the lazy part), but am making a typical 5 gal
batch. My big fear is making two cases of beer grenades. What do you think?
- --Randy--
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Randy J. Smith DoD #2022 '93 CBR900RR
C.E.T.A. Corporation rjsmith@iron.afsac.wpafb.af.mil
"Most of our so-called reasoning consists in finding arguments
for going on believing as we already do."
- James Harvey Robinson
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: 27 Apr 1993 10:07:10 -0300
From: Ed Hitchcock <ECH@ac.dal.ca>
Subject: N2O
I must be slipping, I missed that one first time around! N2O is NOT WHAT'S
USED FOR GUINNESS!!!!! Guinness uses N2, molecular nitrogen, not nitrous
oxide! Nitrous oxide is used for whipped cream, yes, but you don't sit
with a bubbling glass of whipped cream under your nose! Nitrous oxide is
used as an anaesthetic (laughing gas) and to boost engine output (a la Mad
Max). Furthermore, it's solubility in water is close to that of CO2, which
is to say about 50 times greater than the solubility of Nitrogen. Use CO2
or N2 if you like, don't use N2O! You'll be too stoned to taste your beer!
ed
___
/ \ \ Ed Hitchcock +<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>+
| 0 \ Dept of Anatomy & Neurobiology + Drink +
| > Dalhousie University + Noise / Make +
| 0 / Beer Wasteland + Beer +
\___/ / ech@ac.dal.ca +<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>+
------------------------------
Date: 27 Apr 93 08:33:58 EDT
From: RKING@VUNET.VINU.EDU
Subject: Addr: Premier Malt
In response to the question about Premier Malt: I
occasionally use this because it sells at our local
grocery for $3.99 for a 2.2 lb (?) can. It USED
to be $2.99 until about last year. I have always found
it to be a good product, and will use three cans for
a 4 1/2 to 5 gallon batch of "kitchen sink brew,"
where I just throw in all the left over ingredients I
have. I have used the packet of dry yeast, at times,
when I don't have any liquid, and have had surprisingly
good results. I have no brewing store nearby, and the
price is right. I'd like to hear comments from other
brewers about this Premier.
********************************************************
Richard L. King, Reference Librariain, Vincennes (IN) Univ.
RKING@VUNET.VINU.EDU
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 09:45:01 EDT
From: dipalma@banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma)
Subject: RE: 2124 Bohemian
Hi All,
In HBD#1128, Lee Menegoni writes:
>I just kegged a Chech Pilsner using the Wyeast Bohemian strain the package was
>mid February, It had no off flavors or aromas. fermentation was at 45 and
>lagering at 40 and a week at 32 to settle out yeast and proteins. I would
>have to say that the description is different from the result. It did not
>produce a strong malty flavor. I have heard other brewers have the same result.
I tasted this brew recently, I'd have to agree with Lee's assessment.
While the beer was quite good, it did not have the pronounced maltiness and
slightly sulfury notes of a Bohemian pilsner. Instead, the malt character
was "softer" and much more subtle.
I find this of interest because I provided both the undermodified pilsner
malt and the decoction mashing procedure Lee used for this brew. We both
brewed pilsners about one week apart, we both used Saaz exclusively. Using
this same malt and style of mashing, I've produced Bohemian-style pilsners
with the maltiness and sulfury notes I've come to know and love. The only
difference in ingredients and procedures was that I used the Wyeast 2206
Bavarian, one of the strains recommended by Miller in his "Continental
Pilsner" book. For anyone planning to brew a Bohemian pilsner, the 2206
produces a beer much closer to style than the 2124, IMHO.
I have seen this type of thing before, where beers were brewed with the
same malt, hops, and procedures, but pitched with different yeasts to produce
distinctly different beers. Never ceases to amaze me, though.
Cheers,
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 10:20:01 -0400
From: ""Robert C. Santore"" <rsantore@mailbox.syr.edu>
Subject: RE: Soda Adjuncts
in HBD 1128 Dennis Lewis writes:
> alcoholic. Moral: Don't bother with colas or other sodapops.
> They have stuff that will knock out your yeast and don't
> really taste that good. Blech.
It is my understanding that the sugar/soda extract combination does
not have enough nutrients (other than sugar, of course ) to support a
fermentation. Folks that make their own sodas rely on this fact since
most recipies I've seen suggest mixing up your extract/sugar, pitching
yeast, and bottling immediately. The yeast can maintain just enough
activity to carbonate the mixture before dying of some horrible yeast
malnutrition. This may explain why your test 'brew' didn't do much.
Of course, it does not rule out the possibility that preservatives are
at fault as well. A test with a soda/malt combo should be decisive.
Bob Santore
Syracuse, NY
rsantore@mailbox.syr.edu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 07:53:29 pdt
From: Ted Manahan <tedm@hpcvcbp.cv.hp.com>
Subject: Alcohol and other drugs
Full-Name: Ted Manahan
I wrote this article for our local club's newsletter. In the interest of
generating controversy, I will post it here.
Ted Manahan
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
At the recent Home Brew U, [In Seattle, WA] I heard Gene Ford speak. He
publishes the Moderate Drinking Journal, which is devoted to reporting
on the positive medical and therapeutic aspects of drinking. He is on a
quest to counter the attempts of neo prohibitionists to limit access to
beer, wine, and spirits.
One of Mr. Ford's basic philosophies is that our culture has a long history
of using these drinks in moderation. They are social lubricators, and
promote relaxation and well being. With this I agree. He also objects to
the use of the term "alcoholic drinks" to describe beer, wine, and
spirits. He feels this term is used to create a link between these legal
drinks and illegal drugs. He claims there is a fundamental difference
between alcohol and illegal drugs.
At the AHA conference last year, the keynote speaker presented this same
point of view. Charlie Papazian put forth this same claim in a Zymurgy
editorial. I have heard other homebrewers with similar opinions. I don't
agree that there is any fundamental difference between these different
types of drugs.
Homebrewing was legalized only in the last couple decades. At various
times in history, alcohol has been out of favor, and even illegal.
Alcohol is a very potent drug, with the possibility of death resulting
from abuse. We homebrewers, as producers and consumers, need to be aware
of this.
We also need to be vigilant against someone deciding they know what is
best for us. The potential for abuse does not justify taking away the
liberty to use. This certainly holds true for other substances. The
current "war on drugs" is a prime example of creating criminals out of
honest citizens, just as prohibition created criminals out of honest
drinkers.
The main effect of the "war on drugs" is to guarantee a monopoly on drug
profits to those willing to break the law. What newspapers call "drug
related violence" is really money related violence - the most common drug
related violence is bar fights between drunk people.
It is foolish to self righteously decry the attacks neo prohibitionists
are making, while failing to see the connection with our own intolerance
of, for instance, marijuana use. Homebrewers need to be aware that
intolerance is contagious. People with "Zero Tolerance" will quickly see
that alcohol is more dangerous than most illegal drugs. The urge to
control people's behavior soon extends to everything we personally don't
do.
So don't fool yourself. The next time your friends complain about the
effort to lower the DUI limit to one beer, point out that they may be
contributing to the political climate that views government control of
our lives as acceptable. Take note of your own attitude next time you
hear of a drug bust. Would you have felt the same way about the BATF
busting a homebrewer twenty years ago? Next time, it could be you!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 08:06:48 PDT
From: BCI phone # 27-Apr-1993 1106 -0400 <ferguson@zendia.enet.dec.com>
Subject: BCI phone number
The phone number for BCI is 1-800-284-9410.
I'm in no way affiliated with BCI other
then being a satisfied customer.
JC Ferguson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 08:38:00 -0640
From: roy.rudebusch@travel.com (Roy Rudebusch)
Subject: Old Dominion Brewing Co
From: roy.rudebusch@travel.com
Subject: Old Dominion Brewing Co.
In Ashburg, Virginia.
How are their beers, in general?
Do they have any particularily good ones? Are they a Micro or a brewpub?
Thanks in advance for your time in replying e'mail!
roy.rudebusch@travel.com This internet node not supported by
government tax money.
* OLX 2.2 * People who pun deserve to be drawn and quoted
------------------------------
Date: 27 Apr 1993 11:44:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: POLLARD%FRMNVAX1.BITNET@uga.cc.uga.edu
Subject: Clockwise Hops
Just joined this list and am mighty impressed by the brewing knowldege of
you all. I can't contribute much there, but I do know a thing or two
about botany. Twining of vines appears to be unrelated to either sunshine
(they do the same under artificial light) or coreolis effect (I believe
they may have even tested it in the space shuttle). It is controlled by
internal factors related to planes of cell division and distribution of
plant hormones. Some species are innately counterclockwise twiners, and
others, like hops, go clockwise. Yes, it is conventionally viewed from
the plant's point of "view", looking up. An unsupported hop shoot, viewed
with time-lapse photography, makes clockwise spirals (a type of movement
called "nutation") in mid-air, until it touches something; then it twines
around that support. So unlike the whirlpool in your toilet, it will also
go clockwise in the southern hemisphere.
By the way, re. British beer reviews, I agree they aren't very
discriminating. Anybody who can use the same adjectives to describe Bass
and Old Peculier must have no taste buds, and then to make no mention of
original gravity??? Is it any coincidence that these "10 best" happen to
correspond to the 10 brews most commonly found in a fairly good (but not
spectacular) liquor store? Not much research done, I suspect.
Cheers.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1993 11:49:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Brent Peters <sp2q+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Brew Ha Ha address
Howdy,
To all those looking for the 5 litre keg and tap system. Here is
where to find the goods:
Brew Ha Ha, Ltd.
209 High Street
Pottstown, PA 19464
800-243-2620
They also sell a terrific starting kit for beginning homebrewers.
Steve Peters = sp2q@andrew.cmu.edu
*Oxnar demands a _Sacrifice!_*
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 11:25 CDT
From: arf@genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Carbonation, Nitrogen, Yeast
>From: Paul Andrews <PANDREWS@hpb.hwc.ca>
>Subject: Foam and kegging problem
> I pressurized to 50psi (at room temp).. let sit overnight..
(it went down to about 30 psi) after 16-18hours. I decided to see what it
tasted/looked like the next day. Ugh.. most foam and very little carbonation.
Shake the blazes out of it and it will be carbonated in a few minutes at 50
psi. I would suggest that you reduce the pressure to about 20 lbs when the
big rush is over or you run the risk of over carbonating it although at room
temperature, that is not very likely.
The problem you will have carbonating it at room temp is dispensing it. I
use a cold plate to chill it as it is dispensed but without that, all bets
are off.
>From: NIKKANEN@ntcclu.ntc.nokia.com (Kari Nikkanen, design engineer)
> So you are using N2O instead of C02? Do you get
better (smoother) head in your beers than with
C02? I think I'll start kegging my beer too, and
I just thought some time ago, that if Guinness
uses N20, why shouldn't I. Does anyone else
have any opinions?
After reading George Fix's article on nitrogen, I had to give it a try. I
have been experimenting with a product called Aligal. This is 20% CO2 and
80% nitrogen and is sold in a cylinder with CO2 fittings, making it
convenient to try. Unfortunately, it is only available as a rental and costs
$4.50 per month plus $18 for the gas.
The first problem I encountered was when I attempted to carbonate a batch of
with it. After pressuring up the tank to 50 psi, there was not the slightest
absorption, no matter how much I shook it. I had to bleed of the gas and
switch to the straight CO2 in order to carbonate it. When it was just about
fully carbonated, I bled of the CO2 and switched back to the mix and let it
sit at 50 psi overnight.
The results are very interesting but I am not sure it is worth the trouble or
expense. I have done 3 batches with this set up and although each one acts a
little different, the common ground is a head that builds from the bottom up
in a very peculiar manner. The beer can come out of the tap without a bubble
and fill the glass with foam but it disipates in seconds, leaving about an
inch that will stay for hours if you don't drink it.
What is interesting is that typical foam leaves a mostly empty glass when it
dissipates but this foam just turns to beer. I c-p bottled some and took it
to a CBS meeting and it acts the same way when poured from the bottle. It is
really fun to watch.
I put it in the catagory of cute but not sure what value it has for
homebrewers.
>From: sims@pdesds1.atg.trc.scra.org (Jim Sims)
> (1) I've noticed that several of the bartches dont have much head.
I've seen the comments about spotlessly clean glassware, etc.
My experience has been that head retention is a problem primarily associated
with extract beer. "spotlessly clean glassware, etc." may be important with
a marginal beer but since I started making all grain beer, it has become
totally irrelevant how, if or with what, I clean the glass.
> (3) Can someone email me (or send me the ftp location for) the yeast
culturing notes that were (apparently) posted here not too long back?
If you are referring to mine, it is on the way. Actually, it is on the way
regardless.
>From: woessner@psych.purdue.edu (Leo Woessner)
> I am also interested in locating possible sources of yeast slants which
contain yeast which is hard to find. Is there a mail order place(s) which
specialize in yeast culturing??
Scientific Service
7407 Hummingbird Hill
San Antonio, TX 78255
(512) 695 2547
This is a small scale operation run by Paul Farnsworth. He has lots of yeast
and everything you need to deal with it. I have used 4 of his yeasts
including Pilsner Urquel with good results.
>From: SMUCKER@UTKVX.UTCC.UTK.EDU
>Summer must be comming not much traffic on the Homebrew digest and we
had a day without Jack!
Sorry to let you all down but if you note the dates on the two articles in
the most recent Digest, you will see that it was not my fault.
>Question? Have any of you out there used direct O2 before you pitched
your yeast?
Not personally but I just got a call from a customer who claims near Kreusen
within 20 minutes of pitching with O2. Not sure if that's good or bad, just
another data point.
js
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 13:18 EST
From: LYONS@adc1.adc.ray.com
Subject: Brewing partners?
I'm not sure about brewing partners. But would others be interested
in trading one or two six packs of your better brews for those of
other brewers. It seems that this way many of us could enjoy a wide
variety of brew. Perhaps a means of placing ads of which styles one had
available and was willing to trade would be helpfull. Any interest
or alternative ideas?
Chris
LYONS@ADC3.ADC.RAY.COM
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 13:27 CDT
From: korz@iepubj.att.com
Subject: Guinness
I just thought some time ago, that if Guinness
uses N20, why shouldn't I. Does anyone else
have any opinions?
Actually, Guinness uses a nitrogen/CO2 mix. I believe it's about
65% N2 and 35% CO2. The reason for this is so they can dispense
at high pressure without dissolving too much CO2 into the beer.
Pure CO2 at their dispensing pressures would make for uncontrollably
foamy beer.
This weekend, I had my first opportunity to drink ale drawn by hand pump
in the US. After the judging at the Bidal Socielty of Kenosha homebrew
competition judging, one of the brewers from Brewmaster brought over his
*portable* beer engine! A Black&Decker workmate was set up with an open
stainless keg underneath and the 3-by-3-by-3-foot wooden box in which the
beer engine was mounted. At first, the beer was still a bit fizzy from
the being originally, naturally carbonated, but eventually it became
apropriately "flat" and the beer was more authentic. It was actually
more of a novelty, but was nonetheless cool!
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 13:58 EST
From: LYONS@adc3.adc.ray.com
Subject: Micros using dry yeast?
In George Fix's recent posts he mentions that Whitbread distributes
their dry yeast to HB shops and micros. I am surprised to read that
micros would use dry yeast. Does anyone know which micros use which
dry yeasts? I would like to sample these beers and make my own
judgement on the use of dry yeasts.
Chris
LYONS@ADC3.ADC.RAY.COM
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 14:48 EST
From: LYONS@adc3.adc.ray.com
Subject: Question on Whitbread History
I enjoyed George's posting on the history of Whitbread. I
unfortunately have been getting the 12 gram packages, which I now
understand to be very old. I would like to try the new Whitbread
out (the one with similar characterisitics to Wyeast London Ale
yeast). How is this new product packaged? Any information on how
to identify this particular Whitbread from the other two would be
appreciated.
Thank you,
Chris
LYONS@ADC3.ADC.RAY.COM
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 12:39:25 PDT
From: rush@xanadu.llnl.gov (Alan Edwards)
Subject: Re: Growing Hops Horizontally
In HBD #1128, davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu,
David Robinson writes:
| Bravo! Nice info on the Hops report, Alan. I'm more of a
| gardener than a private brew master, so this was of great
| interest to me.
Thanks David.
| I would like to make a small clarification.
|
| - The garden is along my North fence, for maximum sun.
|
| Alan doesn't state which side of the North fence.
On MY side, silly. (Sorry, couldn't resist!)
| This information of course, is dependent on what part of the world you
| live on. For most, if not all of the US, the "Southern Exposure" is
| what you are striving for. The side of a fence or house is nice because
| it stores and reflects heat/light for sun loving plants.
Seriously though, I live in California, so the plants are on the South
side of the North fence, to get maximum Southern exposure from the sun.
Clear as mud? Well, I drew a little picture to help clarify my setup.
(I guess I should've done this in the first place.)
ARIEL VIEW
8' 2x4 nailed NORTH FENCE
to fence \ (steel wire right above fence) 8' 2x4
________________\____________________________________________<--in corner
| : : : : : : : : : : : : : : |
gate ---->| :(): :(): :(): :(): :(): :(): :()<---Hop hills
|_:__:__:__:__:__:__:__:__:__:__:__:__:__:_|
/ : : : : : : : : : : : : : : | E
/ : : : : : : : : : : : : : : | A
garden fence : : : : : : : : : : : : : : | S
: : : : : : : : : : : : : : | T
: : : : : : : : : : : : : : |
horiz. twine --> : : : : : : : : : : : : : : | F
(two per hop hill) : : : : : : : : : : : : : : | E
: : : : : : : : : : : : : : | N
-------------------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+-.: : : : : | C
twine tied to eaves of house |+--+--+--+--+-| E
| 2nd steel |\
| wire | \
| | another
H O U S E | | 8' 2x4
| |
In HBD #1126, I wrote:
| - I have seven hop plants of different varieties about 3.5 feet apart.
| The whole garden is about 24 feet by three feet.
| - The garden is along my North fence, for maximum sun.
| - Two 8 foot 2x4's are nailed to the wooden fence (at the corner and
| at a 4x4 post, for support), with a galvanized steel wire stretched
| across the tops (with a turnbuckle for tightening).
| - Nylon twine is hung from the steel wire and staked into the ground near
| the hops. I would advise against using jute (natural fiber) twine.
| I used jute twine last year and after weathering, some of them snapped.
| Also, they stretch out over time, requiring retightening every so often
| (plan for this).
| - The horizontal twines are tied to the steel wire and fastened to the
| eaves of the roof with screw-eyes.
| - Some vines are not aligned with the house. And in those cases, the
| twine goes to a second steel wire stretched between the North-East
| corner of the house and an 8 foot 2x4 attached to the East fence.
| That wire forms an extension to the North side of the roof, where
| the other twines are attached.
| - The garden is fenced in with a simple 2x4 frame and some chicken wire.
| If you have pets, you must fence it off. Don't trust your dog. I did
| two years ago, and he wrecked the garden. I had to start all over again.
A clarification:
| This year, instead of training three vines from each plant up one twine,
| I am training four vines from each plant up TWO twines.
That's two vines per twine, four from each plant. You might want to try
three per twine (six per plant), but I'm not sure that it would increase
your harvest or not--it might. It would certainly increase the harvesting
difficulty if the plants get too bushy, but it's not that big of a deal.
According to the book I have, there IS a point of diminishing returns,
and I think that six vines per plant is probably pushing it.
If you are only using one twine per plant, then the book I have says to
train three or four vines.
| If you don't keep cutting shoots, things can get hairy quickly. The
| same goes for the long runners that you get coming out of the sides of
| the vine.
I'm not sure about the runners that come out of the sides of the plant.
The book I have doesn't mention them. I think it's probably better to
wind them up with the main vine. That's what I'm doing currently, and
that's what I think I did last year.
What book am I referencing? Good question. I don't have it with me,
but you've all probably seen it, at least in Zymurgy. I think it's titled
"Growing Hops". Its the small paperback with hops all over the cover.
Good luck, and have fun,
-Alan
.------------------------------------.
| Alan Edwards: rush@xanadu.llnl.gov | Member: The Hoppy Cappers
| or: Alan-Edwards@llnl.gov | homebrew club, Modesto, CA
`------------------------------------'
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 13:53:21 CST
From: "William A Kitch" <kitchwa@bongo.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: Priming Scotch Ale
Part 1: I've been told the scotch ale (heavy OG 1.040) I've currently
got in my secondary should be bottle to produce "low carbonation".
I normally bottle ale with 3/4 cup of corn sugar for a 5 gal batch.
This generally produces what I'd call a normal carbonation level.
(Except when I'm hasty to bottle the I get high carbonation and wish
I'd been more patient.)
Question 1: What amount of priming sugar would one use to get the
'low carbonation' appropriate for Scotch ale? (5 gal batch).
Part 2: I sometimes get varying levels of cabonation within a given
batch. That is some bottles are more carbonated than others. I
usually prime in the following way: 1) boil sugar w/a few cups of
water & let cool. 2) Start syphoning beer from secondary to bottling
bucket. 3) When about 4" of beer are in bottom of bucket add sugar
solution. 4) Keep syphon near bottom of bucket hoping to provide
enought mixing to uniformly disperse bottling sugar.
Since I still get different carbonation levels methinks I'm not
properly mixing the bottling sugar with the beer. I'm reluctant to
stir the beer for fear of oxidation and/or infection. Suggestions?
Comments?
WAK
|- William A Kitch (512) 471-4929 -|
|- Geotechnical Engineering -|
|- ECJ 9.227 -|
|- Univ of Texas at Austin, TX 78712-1076 -|
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 14:56 CDT
From: korz@iepubj.att.com
Subject: Re: British Brews/Chimay yeast/O2/Hop growth
Mark writes:
>Thought I would share with you the contents of an article from the May issue
>of _Bon Appetit_. The article is the "Tasting Panel Report", and for May,
>they pick ..."the 10 best British brews available stateside."...
then later goes on to say:
>Gosh, not too descriptive. By no means am I a qualified judge, but it sounds
>to me like the panel doesn't get around to judging beer too often, or at least
>they don't use the same language in describing things like you certified folks
>out there in HBD land do.
Yes, indeed, it's too bad that they did not enlist the talents of anyone who
had experience in judging or writing about beer. Also too bad that they missed
Young's Special London Ale, Samuel Smith's Tadcaster Porter, Oatmeal Stout
and Imperial Stout and Mackeson's XXX Stout. Kudos are due for drawing
attention to Traquair House Ale and Caledonian Ale (marketed here as and
misnamed MacAndrew's *Scotch* Ale (a Scotch Ale it's not)) two of my favorites.
************************
Dennis writes:
I have had several discussions with people on the net about Chimay
yeast. I believe I read (in HBD probably) that Chimay yeast is a
combination of 5 different strains plus some other microflora. One
person said that his plate of Chimay yeast had several "different"
colonies of yeast on it, while another said that his plate looked all
the same. I think they got their yeast from bottle dregs, not from
Wyeast 1214.
Periodically, people write in the HBD that Chimay yeast is a mixture
of 5 yeasts, so you may have read it here, however, it is NOT TRUE.
Chimay *used* to be brewed with a yeast that contained several strains,
but Father Theodore (I believe with the help of DeKlerck) isolated a
strain out of many in their yeast which they have been using as their
single strain yeast for (I believe) at least two decades. The label
says that they bottle with an addition of yeast, but people who have
brewed with Chimay bottle-cultured yeast that I've talked to have
reported very Chimay-like beers, so I suspect that the bottling yeast
is the same as the fermentation yeast. To answer Guy's question, the
yeast in all the Chimay bottles, red, white, blue, 33ml and 750ml
is all the same strain.
Orval, another Trappiste Ale, is a completely different story. They
too ferment with a single strain yeast, but bottle with a mixture of
5 yeasts. I've successfully cultured what I believe is the Orval
fermentation yeast just by trial and error. Orval also has a bit of
lactic sourness, which means that there's some kind of bacteria involved
which may be mixed-in with the fermentation yeast or just part of the
bottling menagerie.
***********************
Dave writes:
>Question? Have any of you out there used direct O2 before you pitched
>your yeast? I have read tails of some using direct injection of O2
>instead of AIR and some problems with too much and getting way too much
>yeast growth. How much is right?
I don't know how much O2 is right, but too much O2 can be toxic to the
yeast, so be careful how much pure O2 you add to your wort.
*********************
There were several posters speculating about the climbing of hops, suggesting
that perhaps they are simply following the sun, which causes clockwise (as
viewed from the top) growth in the northern hemisphere. Yes, it's the plant
following the sun.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 18:24:26 EDT
From: jkirsch@dolphin.uri.EDU (Jay Kirschenbaum)
Subject: Help! Overbubbling!
Hi,
A friend and I are making our first batch of Irish Stout. He has brewed a
lager before, but this it my first batch of beer. We followed the directions
that came with the beer kit (Irish Stout from Eastern Brewers Supply)
but used a liquid yeast instead of the dry yeast supplied (on the
suggestion of EBS).
We are fermenting in a ~6.5 Gal plastic primary fermenter, but now, two days
after we pitched the yeast the wort is bubbling VERY vigerously. It is
bubbling so much that it is getting in to the fermentiation lock, which
was 3-4 inches above the level of the brew when we began.
Did we do something wrong, or is a stout supposed to ferment that violently?
The ambient temperature is about 70-65 F as suggested in the recipe.
Thanks in advance,
Jay Kirschenbaum (and Dave)
jkirsch@dolphin.uri.edu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 18:24:30 -0500
From: bliss@pixel.convex.com (Brian Bliss)
Subject: southpaw hops
mdcsc!gdh@uunet.UU.NET (Garrett Hildebrand) noted the following:
>
> I am growing three kinds of hops in my Southern California backyard,
> and they are all doing the same thing: climbing the stake *clockwise*.
you live in the N. hemisphere. when the sun comes up in the morning in
the SE, the leaves and grow point turn towards it. As the sun moves
across the sky toward the SW, the end of the stem follows it, winding
clockwise around the pole.
just a hypothesis..
bb
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1993 8:21:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: MEHTA01@SWMED.EDU
Subject: organizing a BREW-OFF!!
Hi.
i just wanted to share a few notes on an 'annual' brew-off that we
have going here at UTSouthwestern Medical Centre. The school is essentially
composed of graduate students (almost all Ph.D. students), post-docs and
felllows, and faculty and of course staff. There are millions of labs here,
all doing some form of biomedical research.
There are a few of us who also brew in the little free time we have.
We have a GSO party (paid for [artly from the student fees) held every month
where we (GSO = Grad Student Organisation) serve beer and titbits...
The GSO council decided, on a wee little brewing voice's suggestions,
to have an annual brew-off where the students, faculty etc would brew a batch
for the school and bring it in at one of the monthly parties that would then
be designated a Brew-Off!! It truns out that we have quite a few brewers in the
university and the event was very well received, with brewers of all levels
bringing forth their products. Lots of fun !! The brewers also get reimbursed
for the supplies (inggredients)for the one batch they bring in, but so far
very few people have brought receipts in.
So, we have a greast time. The brewers get a chance to spread the good
beer (cheer :-) ) and get some general ffeed-back on their styles...
i thought that some other univ people might be interested in hearing
about this fun event.
CIao
And happy brewing.. Here's to tiny bubbles..
Shreefal Mehta
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1129, 04/28/93
*************************************
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