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HOMEBREW Digest #1108
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 93/03/30 00:16:07
HOMEBREW Digest #1108 Tue 30 March 1993
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
beer sphere (Michael D. Galloway)
aromatic belgium malts (CHUCKM)
Pilsner Pour (Jack Schmidling)
Chocolate (Jpetty)
hop vine source? (JUKNALIS)
Contacts to US and Canadian brew clubs (Stephen Russell)
Questions ("Anderson_Andy")
brewing scene in Baton Rouge ("J. B. Whitfield")
Cancel Subscription Please (Gerald Vauk)
Stouts from Extract + speciality grains (LYONS)
Hydrometer left in fermenter? (David Hinz)
pressure cook/#13 stopper fits pint jar (Tony Babinec)
Hunters. How not to and how to connect them. (Ulick Stafford)
Starters (Jack Schmidling)
Re: Question on sterile wort preparation (atl)
Brewpubs in Irvine, Ca? (BELLAGIO_DAVID)
re Question on sterile wort preparation (Carl West)
Grain Mills: the Test Drive (Mike Deliman)
WARNING Re: Almost Free Kegging ("Jim Ellingson")
Hop Utilization Factors ("Anderson_Andy")
Re: Question on sterile wort preparation (Jeff Benjamin)
Ithaca Competition (Scott Bickham)
BAA competitor (SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42)
pasteurization, why how and who? (Kirk Anderson)
recipe (U033000)
(Douglas Fay)
Re: Question on sterile wort preparation (Mark Gryska)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1993 07:05:15 -0500
From: Michael D. Galloway <mgx@ornl.gov>
Subject: beer sphere
While shopping at my local homebrew supply shop I noticed these
smokey spherical objects lurking about. The proprietor called them
beer balls or beer spheres or somesuch name. They come in 2.5 and
5 gallon sizes. The 2.5 gal would fit great in my fridge. Has anyone
had any experience with these devices? Are they worth looking into?
Michael D. Galloway
mgx@ornl.gov
Living in the WasteLand
------------------------------
Date: 29 Mar 93 07:55:53 EST
From: CHUCKM@PBN73.Prime.COM
Subject: aromatic belgium malts
Hello All,
Recently there has been a lot written about the Belgium Malts
and in particular I have seen some mention of Belgium aromatic
malt. Does anyone know how the 'aromatic' malts differ from
other non-aromatic malts?
regards,
chuckm@pbn73.prime.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 07:00 CST
From: arf@genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Pilsner Pour
Aside from the SANFU's in my video, probably the most memorable part is the
conversation with Ken Pavichavich in the Baderbrau conference room. He would
pour a glass of beer with a whipped cream head and it would stay that way
till we got tired of looking at it. We were there several hours and one was
still 2 inches above the rim of the glass when we left.
The key to this amazing head is a special tap that he got from Europe that
has two pour positions. The forward position provides a normal pour with
just a trace of head. The back position creates nothing but foam. By
combing the two actions, one can get any sort of head desired.
I saw an ad somewhere for one of these and sent for the info
(800)-FOAMLESS and was stunned to learn the price was around $200.
It seems the point of these is to save beer (and money) and the
rationalization is that it pays for itself quickly in a bar environment.
While thumbing through the Braukunst catalog, I spotted a similar tap for
$46.95 and immediately ordered one. It is directly replaceable with any H-S
tap and required only unscrewing the old and screwing on the new.
I was delighted with the results. It does exactly what it is supposed to do
and costs only about $10 more than the standard tap.
For more info on this and other nifty beer gear, you can contact Cliff
Tanner, Braukunst at:
73507.2256@compuserve.com
js
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 8:04:11 EST
From: Jpetty@PICA.ARMY.MIL
Subject: Chocolate
I recently made 5 gal of chocolate porter. I used 24 tablespoons of dark
cocoa mixed in with the priming sugar. There was a lot of cocoa left in
the bottling bucket and in the bottom of the bottles so I would use about
16 tablespoons next time. You may be able to get more in solution by adding
it to the wort. The taste was just dandy; be careful not to overhop as the
cocoa adds its own bitterness. The 24 came from a recent HBD post, I don't
recall the author.
------------------------------
Date: 29 Mar 1993 08:24:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: JUKNALIS@arserrc.gov
Subject: hop vine source?
I believe I saw a reference to a supplier of hop vines for
planting a few digests ago. Due to local problems I didn't get all my
e-mail for a while so does anyone know the address of the company-ies?
I think the name was FRESH HOPS..... thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 9:03:16 EST
From: srussell@msc.cornell.edu (Stephen Russell)
Subject: Contacts to US and Canadian brew clubs
Hello fellow brewers,
Traffic recently has slowed a bit, so I thought I'd post this.
I maintain a list of email contacts to some 90-100 homebrew clubs around
the US and Canada. The point is to help potential members find clubs
in their area and to help promote interclub communication.
If you would like the contact information for a club or clubs (or all clubs)
below, please send me email. Similarly, if you are a member of a club,
either one listed below already or one not listed, and would be willing to
be the email contact person for your club, please send me email.
Oh, and if you have any questions, please send me email.....
internet: srussell@msc.cornell.edu or srussell@snoopy.msc.cornell.edu
bitnet: srussell@crnlmsc2.bitnet
PS: I don't have a club contact for a Phoenix area club yet and am very
interested because it looks like I'll be moving there in two months.
PPS: it would be nice if someone were willing to take this database off
my hands around that time (hint, hint!) -- really not much work any more.
Cheers and here's to great beers,
STEVE
(list of areas with club contacts follows)
Last updated 3/2/93 (* denotes snail mail only)
- -------------------
AL: Birmingham, Madison
AZ: Tucson
CA: Oakland, Orange Co., Modesto, East Bay, San Fernando Valley, Sacra-
mento, San Francisco, Cupertino, Claremont, Pasadena, San Diego,
Santa Clara Valley, Lancaster, South Bay/San Jose
CO: Colorado Springs, Boulder, Fort Collins, Denver
CT: Fairfield/New Haven counties, Middletown/Hartford
DC: Washington metro area
FL: Tallahassee
GA: Athens
ID: Boise
IL: Bloomington, Chicago, west suburbs (Sugar Grove), northwest suburbs
IN: Lafayette
MA: Springfield, Greenfield, Boston, Milford/central MA
MD: Chesapeake bay area
MI: Ann Arbor, Kalamazoo, Houghton
MN: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Rochester, Duluth*
MO: St. Louis
NC: Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill, NC
ND: Fargo/Moorhead
NF: regional
NH: Merrimack/Manchester, Seabrook, Lebanon/Hanover/White River Junction
NJ: Piscataway, Somerville
NM: Los Alamos, Albuquerque
NY: Syracuse, NYC, Ithaca, Utica, Long Island*, Staten Island, Rochester,
Buffalo, Albany, Westchester County, Columbia Univ., Binghamton
OH: Cincinnati, Dayton, Cleveland
ON: Ottawa, Toronto (this one is actually national)
OR: Corvallis, Portland
PA: Philadelphia, Western Main Line suburbs, State College
QU: Montreal
SC: Columbia
SK: Saskatoon
TX: Austin, Bryan, Fort Worth, Denton, College Station, Houston, Clear
Lake, Dallas
VA: Charlottesville, Richmond, George Mason Univ.
WA: Seattle
WI: Madison, Oshkosh
- --
Stephen W. Russell
Materials Science and Engineering "In the long run, we are all dead."
Cornell University -- John Maynard Keynes
srussell@msc.cornell.edu
------------------------------
Date: 29 Mar 93 03:42:39 EST
From: "Anderson_Andy" <Anderson_Andy%55W3.CCBRIDGE.SEAE.mrouter@seaa.navsea.navy.mil>
Subject: Questions
Message Creation Date was at 29-MAR-1993 08:15:00
Greetings,
I'm an extract brewer who is quite new to this
"homebrew network". I have some questions that I hope won't
bore you all. Being new to this network, I don't know
whether my concerns have been previously dealt with in
excruciating detail.
1. To achieve maximum practical cold-break how quickly and
to what temperature must I reduce my wort?
2. I'm intersted in re-using my yeast in order to keep
costs down and diminish the time to begin fermentation. How
can I efficiently separate the yeast from protein globs and
stray vegetable matter in my troob?
3. I was interested in doing some mail order extract
purchases. I saw one company offering a Wisconsin barley
malt from Briess that was cheaper than what I normally pay
for Munton & Fison unhopped extract. Has anyone out there
brewed with both of these extracts? I'm interested in how
they compare with each other.
4. When sparging in my extract brews, I filter out the
hops as well as hot & cold break proteins and plop the gunk
onto some cheese-cloth. When I'm finished filtering, I
squeeze the cheese-cloth to wring out the last liquid back
into my wort. An I screwing up because my "naked" hand is
squeezing out the juices? Am I introducing bacteria as
well as skin oils? How should I be doing this?
5. This may be "Politically Incorrect" to ask this, but
does anyone out there have serious reservations about any of
the mail-order companies from the following list:
Red Bank Brewing Supply, William's Brewing, The Malt Shop,
Brew Masters, The Brewers Club, The Brewery, MCC Brewing
Supplies, Great Lakes Brew Supply, and Wine Hobby USA
Are there any I should be using instead of these?
Thanks for the help,
Bitch's Brewery
Andy Anderson
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 09:06:19 CST
From: "J. B. Whitfield" <JWHITFIE@UAFSYSB.UARK.EDU>
Subject: brewing scene in Baton Rouge
{For Publication Only}
Dear Homebrewers:
A homebrewing friend of mine, Steve Thompson, is moving to Baton Rouge (LS
U) this weekend and will be in the market for brewing supplies and will
also be interested in local brewpubs, etc. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jim.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 9:10:55 CST
From: Gerald Vauk <jerryv@grateful.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Cancel Subscription Please
Hey Now,
I simply do not have time to keep up reading the digestifier.
Could you please remove me from the distribution list.
jerryv@victor.sps.mot.com
Thanx!
Happy Cheese-
Jerry Vauk:-)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 09:47 EST
From: LYONS@adc1.adc.ray.com
Subject: Stouts from Extract + speciality grains
Just a quick question about making stouts from extract and
speciality grains. In regards to the procedure of adding
a sparge bag containing speciality grains to the cold water and
removing prior to the boil ... is there any benifit to using
flaked barley in this manner?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 09:37:07 CST
From: hinz@memphis.med.ge.com (David Hinz)
Subject: Hydrometer left in fermenter?
Greetings...I'm a beginning homebrewer, and have a question:
To know when the beer is done fermenting, I gather there are at least
two ways to tell: 1, by going by bubbling rate (90 seconds between
bubbles being the time to bottle), and 2, by waiting for the gravity to stop
changing for 2 or 3 days. On the two batches that I've bottled, these times
have coincided, so apparently each is fairly valid.
Is there any reason not to just sanitize the hydrometer and drop it into the
secondary? It seems to me that it gives less chance for infection than
opening it up every day or two to draw off a sample to test. What I've been
doing is just dunking it in there, and reading it once a day or whatever, to
keep an eye on it.
Other than needing a hydrometer for each batch you're monitoring (not that
expensive, compared to ingredients, and once you buy it you have it forever),
can anyone suggest a reason not to do this?
I can see why I wouldn't want it in the primary fermenting carboy, as the
krauesen would change the weight of the thing. Getting it out isn't a problem,
because it floats out when I rinse the carboy. Anything I haven't thought of?
And what is the preferred method for knowing when to bottle, the bubble rate,
or the hydrometer reading?
Thanks,
Dave Hinz
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 10:05:24 CST
From: tony@spss.com (Tony Babinec)
Subject: pressure cook/#13 stopper fits pint jar
I recommend using the pressure cooker method to create sterile
starter worts. Following Dave Miller's book, add 3 pounds of light
dry malt extract to about 2.5 gallons of water to create 3 gallons
of wort. Hop lightly if you wish, and boil for 30 minutes. Chill
enough to facilitate transfer, and then transfer the wort to 12
Quart Ball jars or 24 Half-Quart Ball jars. I found a 5 or 6
gallon pressure cooker (I don't remember the capacity, but it was
the largest one) at a Service Merchandise. It takes two cooking
"cycles," as all jars won't fit in the cooker. By cooking at 15
pounds pressure for 20 minutes, you sterilize the wort. Then,
whenever you need some wort, you just pop open a jar.
The Half-Quart Ball jar can be fitted with a #13 stopper and
airlock, so you can pitch the yeast straight into it if you want.
The pressure cooker also comes in handy should you decide to do
yeast culturing.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 11:15:45 EST
From: Ulick Stafford <ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu>
Subject: Hunters. How not to and how to connect them.
This weekend I wired up my freezer. Not wanting the damage the
antique beauty in any way, I mounted the Hunter (heat-cool,
round, mechanicial model 40005) to a scrap of plywood, and connected
it to an extension cable coming in. Anyway, when I turned on the
power, she blew. A bright spark and there was no metal left on the
thin wires of the mercury trip switch. I then realised that when
they said for 15-30V DC low power DC control systems, they meant it. I
wondered why I had never heard of any problems wiring these puppies
up. Common sense should have told me that the thin wires of the
Hunter could not carry a total freezer load. I suspected that I may
have been able to connect if across the freezer's regular thermostat
circuit. Anti-surge devices and such were mentioned, but guessing
that the voltage would still be 115 AC, and the fact that the wires
were quite thick, and also the prime directive - not to fuch with
the integrity of the freezer, my mind turned to relay.
So off I went back to Builder's Square for a new Hunter and then to
Radio Shack for a relay. I got a 12 VDC relay with contacts
rated for 15 A at 125 VAC. Overkill maybe but I was taking no chances.
I could have got a similar device with a coil that used 120 VAC.
It may well have had low enough power to be OK through the hunter,
but I was taking no chances. I wired it all up at home. I soldered
the relay contacts accross the power cord live wire (where the previous
Hunter used to be). I connected the + terminal of a 9V battery to
the R connecter on the Hunter, the Y (cooling) connecter to the relay
coil, and closed the circuit by connecting the other coil connector to
the - terminal on the battery.
But the best point, which I haven't seen made yet is that it is
trivial to lower the range of one of these devices. The scale is
from 40-90 F, but to be accurate the Hunter must be vertical, because
it is based on a mercury trip switch that sits atop a metal coil
type thermometer. So I turned my Hunter 1/16 of a turn anti clockwise,
and now I get the temperature approximately 10 F below the setting.
It also occurs to me that it should be easy to adapt a heat only thermostat
based on the same principle to cooling only by loosening the mercury
switch and turning it around. They are usually glued, but the glue
connection is easy to break (I discovered this while trying to save my
previous one). The heat only ones are ~$13 as against $20 or so for
the heating/cooling one. The relay cost $5-$6 - a standard Potter and Blumfield
repacked as Archer, a Radio Shack brand.
__________________________________________________________________________
'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s@&* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng.
Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556
| ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 11:20 CST
From: arf@genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Starters
>From: birkelan@adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland)
>It would be nice if the same jar that was used in the pressure
cooker could accept an air lock.
This is getting like the "where can I get a brew kettle cheap?"
Erlenmeyer flasks, which are available at any scientific apparatus supplier,
are designed to accommodate rubber stoppers. All you need is a glass air
lock (Korz carries them) and you are in business. Bring the wort to a low
boil, and attach the empty airlock. The steam will condense into sterile
lock water while sterilizing the lock and flask.
>Some may consider this a ridiculous idea, but I feel that
anything that simplifies my yeast culturing is worthwhile.
This is certainly a step in that direction.
>From: polstra!larryba@uunet.UU.NET
>Yeast management is amazingly simple and easy once you get over the hurdle
of doing it. Just like all grain, it does involve a little extra effort, but
the $$ savings over $5 yeast packets is considerable. Since recovering wort
and canning it is part of my usual kitchen clean up, after brewing, it
doesn't seem to take any extra time. Building up yeast doesn't take much
time either: I just have to start two days earlier that when using a Wyeast
packet.
Well put and worth elaborating on at the risk of creating a Yeast Snob
thread.
Once yeast culturing becomes routine, doing anything else poses the same
questions as brewing with extract.
It may very well be a time/money tradeoff for some but in the majority of
cases, it is simply fear of the unknown and intimidation by big words and
complicated sounding procedures.
I will say no more here but everytime I announce that I have an article on
beginning yeast culture, I get inundated with requests which boggle my mail
so I will post the article in serial form starting tomorrow.
js
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 09:22:50 -0800
From: atl@kpc.com
Subject: Re: Question on sterile wort preparation
> However, when it comes time to use the wort, it must be
> poured out of the canning jars and into the vessel which
> will be used to culture the yeast, with the associated
> contamination risks.
After removing the sealing ring, I dip the still sealed jar into a bleach
solution. Then I remove the lid and pour.
> It would be nice if the same jar that was used in the pressure
> cooker could accept an air lock. This way, when it came time
> to make the starter, one could simply take the jar of sterile
> wort off the shelf, open it, put in the yeast, and attach
> a sanitized airlock.
I have found that small juice jars will reseal once or twice before
discarding. We get Mission something or another juices here at work, and I
had a few friends save the jars abnd lids for me. These will accept a #6
stopper. Be sure to use the jars with the pop up top so you can tell if they
are contaminated.
Drew
------------------------------
Date: 29 Mar 93 09:41:00 +0900
From: BELLAGIO_DAVID@Tandem.COM
Subject: Brewpubs in Irvine, Ca?
Hi,
I will be on travel in Irvine, Ca next week. From my list I see there is
a brewpub in Hunington Beach. Is this the only one near Irvine? Is it worth
going to? Is there any other spot that serves good beer? Thanks in advance.
Super Dave
bellagio_david@tandem.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 12:39:24 EST
From: eisen@kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West)
Subject: re Question on sterile wort preparation
Joel asks:
- --- --------------------------------
Does anyone know of small-mouthed jars with accompanying
small lids and rings, (sort of like a miniature Ball jar),
which would accomodate a drilled stopper?
- --- ------------------------------
I've had good luck with those hand-sized Veryfine juice bottles. Fill
'em maybe half full of wort, put the lids on so that the threads just
engage, and pressure-cook 'em. When you take 'em out, tighten 'em down
(wear hot-mitts). If the lids pop down when they cool, you got a good
seal, they'll last a _long_ time. They take a regular carboy stopper.
Have a look around the supermarket and/or convenience store,
you'll find something that'll work for you.
Carl
WISL,BM.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1993 10:12:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Deliman <miked@wrs.com>
Subject: Grain Mills: the Test Drive
Preface:
This is an attempt by an amateur scientist to publish an objective
review of two common mills.
----- Test Drive, the final chapter -----------
The results of the great Corona Mill VS. MaltMill grain crush are in.
First, an overview of the hardware in the test:
===== Corona ===== Price, as tested: $39.
The Corona mill is a fairly straightforward design. There is a hopper on
top, big enough for about 2 # of pale malt. It is a hand cranked design;
the hand crank is about 18 inches long. Once it's going, it's not too
hard to keep it going.
The mill itself uses a screw "impeller" to feed grain to the
crushing/grinding plates. The plates have a gap, which is adjustable via
a wingnut and locknut.
The Corona does require a mount for stability, and could use a mechanism
to direct the output of the milled grain.
Nearly all of the Corona's parts are made from cast metal. It'd be
fairly hard to break (i.e., it could fall off the brewing table, bounce
down the stairs, hit AND kill the cat, and still be functional).
===== MaltMill ===== Price, as tested: $130
(As tested, this unit had the adjustable gap feature. It did not have
the stainless steel rollers.)
This mill has a decent-sized hopper, which uses gravity to feed grain
through the rollers. The entire mill is designed to sit atop a bucket.
The MaltMill is a roller-mill design. The rollers and "bearing plates"
(for lack of a better term) are made of metal. The rollers themselves
are grooved; these were probably used in an industrial application and
required a significant cleaning effort before the author felt
comfortable about using this device on a food product.
The basic design is manufactured mostly from pressboard, save the name
placards and the roller assembly. Structural integrity is provided by a
total of 8 bolts; two hold the hopper on, two hold the bottom board on,
and there are bolts at each end of the placards.
The rollers have an adjustable gap (on this model). The adjustment is
performed by rotating an eccentric cam on which the end of one of the
rollers is mounted. The adjustment can be tightened to the point of no
gap, or opened to where grain could fall through unmilled. Once
adjusted, one must lock down the cam with a wing nut.
On the adjustable model, one of the placard bolts is replaced by the
adjustment lock down bolt - which sacrifices whatever structural
reinforcement the original bolt had to offer.
If this mill were to fall from 5 feet to a cement floor, there would
undoubtably be irreparable damage.
- -----------
Pre-test adjustments
The Corona was adjusted to where it left no unbroken kernels, and a
minimal amount of husk damage. The adjustment is not hard to perform
while milling.
The MaltMill was adjusted to just where it would not allow malt to go
through uncrushed. Aside from husk material and flour, the crush was
nearly indistinguishable from that of the Corona.
Adjustments had to be made by running a handful of grain through, then
loosening the wing nut, adjusting roller separation via twisting the
cam, and then tightening the cam. ("lather-rinse-repeat")
The goal with both mills was to adjust for a crush:
* with minimal flour content
* minimal uncrushed kernels
* minimal damage to the husks
- ----------
The Crush: yields!
The Corona had a very consistent crush. With proper adjustment, one can
minimize the damage to the husks and at the same time leave no kernels
uncrushed.
The MaltMill has the possibility of passing a few uncrushed kernels
through while still producing significant flour.
Quantitative Analysis: procedure
Both mills were adjusted for proper crush. The MaltMill crushed into a
grain bag in a bucket. The Corona's output was directed via a sleeve
into a grain bag in a bucket.
After milling, the grain was sifted, and the resulting flour was weighed
on a counterbalance (accurate to within .02 grams).
Results:
For 2 # Pale Malt, the Corona produced 42.0 grams flour.
the MaltMill produced 49.5 grams flour.
That's a whopping 20% MORE flour with the MaltMill.
This is significant as I've heard theories that flour content can
contribute to a stuck sparge; I've also had more sparge problems with
high flour content milled malts.
Husks: The husks on the Corona's crush were slightly more damaged than
on the MaltMill.
Unmilled kernels: the MaltMill had a higher ratio of unmilled
kernels; we did not see any unmilled kernels with the Corona.
If time had allowed, I would have liked to run some deeper analysis on
the grain - an actual count of unmilled kernels per 100 ground, etc,
would have been nice to tally.
=========
I leave the reader to interpret the results. Apologies to those whom
regard this posting as wasted HBD bandwidth.
Have a homebrew >pffft<,
mike
Mike Deliman, 800-USA-4WRS, FAX 510-814-2010, WRS 2400bd BBS: 510-814-2165
email: miked@wrs.com (inet) or [sun,uunet]!wrs!miked (uunet)
Snail Mail: Wind River Systems, 1010 Atlantic Ave, Alameda CA 94501 USA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 12:56:11 -0600
From: "Jim Ellingson" <jimme@pi28.arc.umn.edu>
Subject: WARNING Re: Almost Free Kegging
Jack suggests using a keg as a pressure vessel and getting pressurized
CO2 gas from dry ice. Highly pressurized gas can be very dangerous.
The short answer is: DON'T DO IT!!!!!
Let's do a quick BOTEC (Back of the Envelope Calculation) analysis on
this. The vapor pressure of liquid C02 is hundreds of psi (say 500
psi) and is a function of temperature. It's several times the rated
operating pressure of a Cornelius keg (120 psi). Clearly there is a
potential here for disaster.
Most substances expand about 1000 times upon boiling or sublimating, at
a pressure of one atmosphere. So, if we use a pint of dry ice, it will
sublimate into 1000 pints of CO2 gas. If we stuff 1000 pints of C02
into our 40 pint (5 gallon for you non BOTEC alums) keg, what is our
pressure? The Ideal Gas Law states that each halving of the volume
induces a doubling of the pressure. 25 is roughly 2 to the 5th power,
so a pint of dry ice should generate 5 doublings of atmospheric
pressure or . . . something on the order of 25 atmospheres or 400 psi.
Using half as much dry ice would half the pressure. So, using a half
cup would give us about 100 psi, which is twice Jack's recommend
operating pressure. Also, I wouldn't use BOTEC analysis if I wanted a
pressure anywhere near the manufacturers rated operating pressure.
Using a quarter cup would give a pressure of around 50 psi but I still
don't think it's a very good idea.
Pressure vessels are thick, heavy and expensive for a reason. The
pressurized gas which they hold contains an enormous amount of
potential energy. (That's why they are hydro {water} tested. Compared
to gases, fluids are approximately incompressible.)
BTW, thanks to all for keeping the S/N ratio up on the HBD.
Cheers,
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
* Jim Ellingson jimme@arc.umn.edu *
* AHPCRC/University of Minnesota tel 612/626-8088 *
* 1100 Washington Ave. S., Minneapolis, MN 55415 fax 612/626-1596 *
------------------------------
Date: 29 Mar 93 09:20:23 EST
From: "Anderson_Andy" <Anderson_Andy%55W3.CCBRIDGE.SEAE.mrouter@seaa.navsea.navy.mil>
Subject: Hop Utilization Factors
Message Creation Date was at 29-MAR-1993 14:14:00
Greetings,
Would someone out there please inform me on calculating
the difference in the hop utilization factor for whole leaf
vs. hop pellets. I read these formulas on calculating the
IBUs for a given beer, but I have not seen anything that
deals with the form of the hop itself, aside from its Alpha
value. It would seem that this would be especially
important for hops added near the end of the boil (i.e. for
flavor or aroma).
Thanks,
Bitch's Brewery
Andy Anderson
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 14:43:23 MST
From: Jeff Benjamin <benji@hpfcbug.fc.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Question on sterile wort preparation
> It would be nice if the same jar that was used in the pressure
> cooker could accept an air lock.
I would think any glass juice jar with a lined metal lid fits the bill
nicely. Just drink the juice and re-use the cap. I use 1-qt jars
that take a #7-1/2 or #8 stopper.
I don't use a pressure cooker, but I make starters with normal
water-bath canning procedures. After the jar cools, the center of the
lid collapses and seals just like a mason jar. I suppose the lid will
wear out after a while, but I've used them 3 or 4 times and they still
work fine. Their working life may be less when pressure cooked.
- --
Jeff Benjamin benji@hpfcla.fc.hp.com
Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado
"Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium."
- T.S. Eliot
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 18:21:03 EST
From: bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu (Scott Bickham)
Subject: Ithaca Competition
Ithaca Brewers' Union May-Day Ale Competition
AHA Sanctioned Homebrew Competition
Saturday, May 1, 1993
Entry Information:
A. Bottles: three 10-14 oz. bottles are required for each entry.
Grolsch-type bottles and bottles with raised lettering or paper
labels will not be accepted.
B. Drop-off Sites: entries may be shipped via UPS or delivered in
person to Summer Meadow Herb Shop, 319 Eddy Street, Ithaca, NY
14850. In addition, entries from the Syracuse area may be dropped
off at E.J. Wren Homebrew, Inc., 209 Oswego Street, Ponderosa
Plaza, Liverpool, (315) 457-2282 and those from the Binghamton
area dropped off at S & R Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies,
223 Ridgefield Rd., Endicott, (607) 748-1877. Entries will be
accepted from April 10 through April 24, 1993.
C. Entry Fee: $5 per entry ($4 per entry if more than 4 are
submitted). Please include a check made out to "Ithaca Brewers'
Union" and enclose a completed entry form for each homebrew
submitted.
D. Styles: all entries will be judged by AHA style definitions, which
were listed in the February IBU Newsletter. Fruits, herbs or spices
used in speciality beers should be listed and the base style included
so that it can be judged appropriately. Note: if a particular category
does not receive at least six entries, it will be combined with a
similar category for judging and award purposes.
1. Belgian-Style Specialty 6. Porter
a. Flanders Brown a. Robust Porter
b. Dubbel b. Brown Porter
c. Trippel 7. Stout
d. Belgian Ale a. Dry Stout
e. Belgian Strong Ale b. Foreign style
f. Lambic c. Sweet Stout
g. White 8. Strong Ales
2. Brown Ale a. English Old Ale
a. English Brown b. Strong Scotch Ale
b. English Mild c. Barley Wine
c. American Brown d. Imperial Stout
3. English Style Ale 9. German Style Ale
a. Classic Pale Ale a. Altbier
b. India Pale Ale b. Koelsch
c. Ordinary Bitter 10. Wheat Beer
d. Special Bitter a. Berliner Weiss
e. Extra Special Bitter b. Weizen
4. Americal Style Ale c. Dunkelweizen
a. American Pale Ale d. Weizenbock
b. India Pale Ale 11. Specialty Ale
c. California Common Beer a. Fruit Beer
5. Scottish Ale b. Herb or Spice Beer
a. Scottish Light
b. Scottish Heavy
c. Scottish Export
E. Judging Information: Judging will be done in a closed session at
the Tower Club Restaurant on the Ithaca College campus, with the
first round beginning at 10 a.m. sharp and the second round
commencing after lunch. Contact Scott Bickham at (607) 266-0092
or e-mail to bickham@msc.cornell.edu if you are interested in
judging or stewarding.
- --
=========================================================================
Scott Bickham |
LASSP and Materials Science Center | bickham@msc.cornell.edu
=========================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 15:36:47 -0800
From: SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42@pollux.svale.hp.com
Subject: BAA competitor
I just got information on a competitor to Beers Across America. I'm not
affiliated... blah, blah,blah.
The company is:
MICROBREW TO YOU
428 E. Campbell Ave
Campbell, CA 95008
Phone: (408) 379-0500
Fax: (408) 379-8837
Their flyer says they will ship two six-packs a month of microbrewery beer and
a newsletter about the beer and brewery that produced it. They are a new
company, about three weeks old. They say they are starting with california
beers, but will move expand soon.
The monthly cost is:
$13.95 plus tax, S&H, and Calif deposit.
For those in the Bay area, these guys have a very small store in downtown
Campbell that stocks lots of kinds of beer (58 breweries were represented
when I stopped in). They are also a source for kegs from many of these
breweries.
Mike Schrempp
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1993 18:50:55 -1100
From: Kirk_Anderson@wheatonma.edu (Kirk Anderson)
Subject: pasteurization, why how and who?
Can someone satisfy my not-overly-technical curiosity about
pasteurization of beer? Is there a simple way to tell if a
beer is pasteurized (I've been told it's obvious in the head)?
Why and how is it detrimental to the flavor? Are all draft
beers unpasteurized? Why? Are all imports unpasteurized?
Does the cold-filtered process represent a real improvement
over pasteurization? What do they filter out anyway that
would shorten the shelf-life? What would happen if megabrews
were not pasteurized? Who's buried in Grant's tomb?
If this ground has all been covered, excuse me I'm a recent
reader. But please tell me where, via e-mail. Otherwise, it's
a topic that should interest beer cognoscenti (even though God
only knows why anyone would want to do this at home) and might merit
some HBD bandwidth.
yours with foam on top,
Kirk
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 20:06:15 EST
From: U033000 <U033%SETONMUS.BITNET@PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU>
Subject: recipe
To whom it may concern:
How can I get a home brewing recipe?
The Circuit Breaker
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1993 18:46:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Douglas Fay <94dfay@ultrix.uor.edu>
Subject:
sub doug fay
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 93 23:18:35 EST
From: Mark Gryska <mark@vicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Question on sterile wort preparation
I've used ball jars in a pressure canner for preparing my sterile
wort without worrying too much about dumping the contents into a
sanitized container for the starter. The advantages are: you can pour
off the wort and leave trub behind; oxygenate the wort while pouring;
clean the ball jar thoroughly if it is the wide mouth variety. I
haven't had any problems with contamination. (knock knock knock) If you
are concerned then maybe you can get your hands on a glass milk bottle.
They usually come in 1/4, 1/2 and 1 quart sizes and you'll find that a
#6 stopper will fit and you can put these into a pressure canner as
well.
- mg
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1108, 03/30/93
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