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HOMEBREW Digest #0995
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 92/10/21 00:31:24
HOMEBREW Digest #995 Wed 21 October 1992
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Beginner questions (J. Fingerle)
czech malt extract (Theodore B. Samsel)
Re: snobbery and the Red Hook Ale Brewery (Rob Winters)
re:decoction mashing (R.) Cavasin" <cav@bnr.ca>
carmelization (Mark Garti mrgarti@xyplex.com)
boil ALL the water? (Tom Dube)
DMS (Mark Garti mrgarti@xyplex.com)
High-temp "Lager"/snobbery/stuck ferment/tannins from decoction (korz)
Yards (Ford Prefect)
Re: molasses, lager yeast goof (Jeff Benjamin)
Bananabrau Results (korz)
Wyeast Belgian (Brian Bliss)
efficient wort chilling (Peter Maxwell)
Re: Oops! -Lager yeast goof.. (Richard Childers)
Re: Wyeast #2112 California Lager Yeast (gordon)
Revisionist history revisited (STROUD)
please add me to the list (weissborn)
"California Reds" (Robert Pulliam)
Boiler Crud Removal? Thanks... ("John Cotterill")
Re: Please, clean up files (Douglas DeMers)
Another Brewpub Beachhead (fjdobner)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 07:57:06 EDT
From: fingerle@NADC.NADC.NAVY.MIL (J. Fingerle)
Subject: Beginner questions
Hello everyone, I hope you don't mind some questions from
a beginner. Two weeks ago, I bought my equipment kit and brewed
my first batch. I followed the instructions on the can of malt
but almost everything I've been reading since I brewed tells me
that I should not have followed them. The specifics:
I used the Munton and Fison Stout Kit (3#5ozs). It calls for
6 cups (2#3ozs) of spraymalt, which the clerk at the store
said was unnecessary and recommended using 6 cups of the corn sugar
supplied with my kit instead. I did this. First, what is
"spraymalt?" Secondly, everything from Papizon to the NBS catalog
recommends against the use of that much corn sugar. Is this correct
and why?
Also, the instructions on the label said add the softened malt, the
spraymalt, and 1 gallon of boiling water to the primary and stir.
Again the same sources I've been reading almost universally recommend
adding the malt to boiling water and then continuing the boiling
on the stove for some amount of time. What's the difference? Is this
necessary?
In any event, the beer seems OK so far. Bubbling through the lock
began at about 48 hours, reached its peak activity at about 80 hours
and stopped by the fifth day. After checking with the hydrometer, I
bottled on the seventh day. I opened one last night (its been a week)
and it was pretty good. I will, of course, continue to let this batch
age.
Any suggestions anyone might have would be welcome. I'd like to stay
with this one type of malt for several batches
while "tweaking" the ingrediants and procedures. Thanks for your help.
- --
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
name: Jimmy Nothing kills a good arguement
email: fingerle@NADC.NADC.NAVY.MIL like someone looking up the facts.
-or- fingerle@NADC.NAVY.MIL -Bill Lyon
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
------------------------------
Date: Tuesday, October 20, 1992 08:28:35
From: TBSAMSEL@qvarsa.er.usgs.gov (Theodore B. Samsel)
Subject: czech malt extract
(I tried to mail this and it didn't get to y'all).
While I was in Toronto, Ont. the fisrt weekend in October,
I went to a homebrewing supply place and saw they had bulk
Czech malt extract. Anyone have this in the states?
BTW. The brewpubs in T.O. are better than the ones in
Denver, esp Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Growlers.
Ted
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1992 09:21:23 -0500
From: rwinters@nhqvax.hq.nasa.gov (Rob Winters)
Subject: Re: snobbery and the Red Hook Ale Brewery
Jon Binkley <binkley@beagle.Colorado.EDU> sez:
>Hey, if Anchor and Red Hook charged $3.50 a six pack for their
>wheat beers I'd have no complaint, and would even buy some for
>lawn mowing purposes. Lowering their prices they'd also sell
>more to the masses, supporting the production of their good beers
>and introducing more people to their well made beers. Charging
>the same price as they do for Liberty Ale or Ballard Bitter is
>down right offensive, and reeks of UNWARRENTED snobbery to this
>accused and confessed beer snob.
So how do you get Wheat Hook to mow your lawn? Tres' cool!
Sluggish sales is not exactly the problem I saw at Red Hook when
I visited in September. In fact, I got the distinct impression
that they were selling all they could produce and could sell TWICE
what they produce. The main reason that they steadfastly refuse to
ship beer to the east coast is that they can't produce enough to
satisfy the pacific northwest. Therefore, I have to settle for
coming home from the occasional trip with *very heavy* carry-on
luggage 8-Q
So-ooo... Don't looking for big price reductions any time soon.
Personally, I wish I lived in Seattle, so I could be ripped off
with alarming regularity. I worry more about businesses like
this lowering their quality than lowering their prices. There
are plenty of $3.50 six packs to be had out there, but not
enough good beer.
My expert (sic) analysis of Wheat Hook?
A decent beer,... but a GREAT poster!
Rob ("Wheat Hook: It's where you find it") Winters
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1992 09:45:00 +0000
From: "Rick (R.) Cavasin" <cav@bnr.ca>
Subject: re:decoction mashing
Glenn Anderson asks about astringency problems with decoction
mashing. I mash in my lauter tun which is insulated (I use
the two bucket approach with closed cell foam glued to the
outer bucket), so that I can draw off some of the mash water
which I then boil and return to the tun to increase the temperature.
The amount of husks in the runnoff is probably negligible, but
one could recirculate the decoctions. After doing decoctions
for a while, you get a feeling for how much of a temperature
increase you can expect from a decoction of a particular size.
(as a percentage of the total mash - I suppose coming up with a
formula wouldn't be too difficult)
If you are doing a fairly straightforward infusion type mash,
the number of decoctions needed is small. If you want to do
an acid rest, protein rest, etc. etc., the number of decoctions
needed can make the process a little tedious, especially if you
are worrying about establishing a grain bed for each decoction
(you break up the grain bed each time you stir in the boiled
decoction). I've been told that you should confine each decoction
to no more than 1/3 of the total mash water used to avoid depleting
too much of the enzymes. If you are decocting for the mash
out however, I don't think you need to worry about this.
Cheers, Rick C.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 10:48:56 EDT
From: garti@mrg.xyplex.com (Mark Garti mrgarti@xyplex.com)
Subject: carmelization
what is carmelization?
how does it happen?
what do you do not to get it?
do you ever want it? if so why?
Mark mrgarti@xyplex.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 10:49:50 -0400
From: dube@GROUCHO.CS.NYU.EDU (Tom Dube)
Subject: boil ALL the water?
I've been an extract brewer for a few yaers, and I have been reading
all the homebrew books with an eye toward trying all-grain soon.
But, looking at the "beginners" section of Dave Miller's 'Brewing
the World's Great Beers', I see that he recommends boiling all
of the water that ends up in the fermenter. I have always added
the extra few gallons of water straight from the tap to the
fermenter.
The reason he gives for boiling is the presence of chlorine in tap water.
Does this make sense? Would boiling the tap water increase the
chlorine concentration, or does it really help?
Thanks in advance, Tom Dube
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 12:29:51 EDT
From: garti@mrg.xyplex.com (Mark Garti mrgarti@xyplex.com)
Subject: DMS
what is DMS? how is related to brewing?
Mark mrgarti@xyplex.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 11:25 CDT
From: iepubj!korz@ihlpa.att.com
Subject: High-temp "Lager"/snobbery/stuck ferment/tannins from decoction
Hmmm? Two questions about using lager yeast in "high" temperature
ferments in one digest.
Michael Howe writes:
>(including nutmeg,cloves,cinnamon,etc). Everything was going find until
>it was time to add the yeast. As I was about to pour it in, I noticed that
>it was lager yeast instead of ale yeast. Being the wild and crazy guys that
>we are (not to mention, the stores were closed and we couldn't get more yeast),
>we decided to go ahead and put it in anyway. Now the problem, as I see it,
>is that we should allow fermentation to take place in a cooler environment
>for the yeast to be able to do it's thing( is this correct?). We do not
>have an environment to do so. Are we wasting our time allowing it to
>ferment at room temperature (about 68 F.) or not. Does anyone see any
>problems that are going to arise from this situation. If so, is there
>anything we can/should do at this point to save our beloved holiday beer.
Paul Matulonis writes:
>I'm about to brew up a steam beer and was wondering....does any one
>have any experience with this yeast at room temp? I'd like to get a
>little more mileage and was thinking of doing up one of my generic ales
>and use some of the cal. lager stuff (wyeast 2112) after I cook up
>the steam beer. I've got room in the cool box for only a single
>carboy at a time and the second batch would have to ferment at
>room temps (around 70-77 F depending upon how the building screws
>around with the heating system).
Lager yeast will ferment just fine at low or high temperatures. By fermenting
at higher temperatures, you will get more esters and fusel alcohols, however.
Every yeast behaves differently and some will go distintively banana on you
at higher temperatures, others will get very phenolic, others will not be
affected as much. I haven't used Wyeast #2112, so I don't know what it will
do a room temperature, but you'll recall that the California Common style
of beer is a beer brewed with lager yeast at ale temperatures... not quite
up to 77F -- mid 60's would be much more to style.
Michael didn't mention which brand/strain of yeast they are using, but don't
worry -- brew away -- since it's a X-mas brew and has a lot of spices, I
doubt that the yeast will contribute a large percentage of the final flavor.
This seems like a good point to repeat my "the yeast you use is the biggest
factor in the final flavor of your beer" diatribe. Within reason, of course,
but changing from Fuggles to Goldings or adding 20% more chocolate malt will
affect the flavor of your beer a lot less than changing from Wyeast #1028 to
Wyeast #1056, let alone changing from dry to liquid yeast.
***
Jon Binkley writes:
{stuff deleted]
>But what bothers me more than either snobbery or bland taste is
>unwarrented pretension. I consider Sam Smith's Oatmeal Stout
>a snob's beer. It's WAY overpriced, and I refuse to buy it
>for that reason, but it is definitely great beer and the snobbery
>is justified. At the other end of the spectrum is the bland
Around here, SS Oatmeal Stout is $10.99/six. With tax, let's say
$2/bottle. Back in July, I paid $3/12oz (I think) for keg Old Style at
Wrigley field. Keg Budweiser was the same price. In downtown Chicago
you can find places that sell Beck's for $4/bottle.
Besides the lousy exchange rate with Britain and the cost of shipping,
Samuel Smith's Tadcaster Brewery is a small operation, by comparison,
and thus will have quite a bit more overhead than say Bass or Courage
or Scottish and Newcastle etc. etc. Finally, I'll bet there's more
malt in a single bottle of SS Oatmeal Stout than in a case of Bud.
Personally, I'll keep buying SS and Duvel and Young's and Timmerman's.
(Heck, I rejoiced at seing Timmerman's Gueuze for $3.29/bottle and bought
every bottle in the store!)
***
GREG PYLE believes that he has a stuck ferment because his 15 gallon
batch has stopped at 1.020:
[stuff deleted]
>I have been told that if you multiply a recipe by more than two, stuck
>fermentation is unavoidable because the centre of the carboy has a much higher
>temperature than the sides of the carboy thereby damaging active yeast. Is
>there anyone who knows how to avoid these problems for brewing batches over 5
>gallons?
I would need more information to tell if 1.020 really is stuck. For example,
I brewed a Young's Special London Ale clone that started at 1.063 and finished
at 1.022. Ok, so it was a bit high for YSLA, but the flavor was there -- I
used Wyeast #1028. Thanks to John the HopDevil, I expect to soon be able to
use *REAL* Young's yeast -- direct from the brewery in London!
Glenn Anderson asks:
>astringincy and other negative effects will result. My question for
>the decocters in the crowd is; why does boiling a portion of the
>grist not extract tannins during a decoction?
Darryl Richman finally cleared this up for me too. He recently posted
that it's the pH! I interpret this as meaning that as long as the pH is
down in the vicinity of 5.2, exctraction of tannins is much lower than
if it's up high.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 09:35:19 -0700
From: sag5004@yak.boeing.com (Ford Prefect)
Subject: Yards
Hello-
While thumbing through the recent superior products sale catalog I noticed
yards w/ stands for $40.?? and w/o stands for ~120 for a case of six. They
also have 1/2 yards and foots (feet?). It seemed like a pretty good deal
to me.
Sorry I don't have the catalog here at work so I can't post the number. I
gave the catalog to my fiancee and mentioned that a yard would make a really
cool christmas present :-) I am pretty sure that someone on HBD must know
the number, because this is where I got it from.
stuart galt boeing computer services
sag5004@yak.boeing.com bellvue washington
(206) 865-3764 or home (206) 361-0190
#include <standard/disclaim.h>
I don't know what they say, they don't know what I say...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 10:53:11 MDT
From: Jeff Benjamin <benji@hpfcbug.fc.hp.com>
Subject: Re: molasses, lager yeast goof
David_O'Neill.Wbst129@xerox.com asks about priming with molasses. First
off, I don't think I'd do it at all. Most molasses has a pretty strong
flavor, and it seems that with the amount needed for priming, the flavor
would be overpowering.
That said, the type you use depends on how strong a molasses flavor you
want. I'd go with the lightest unsulphured molasses I could find. You
should probably avoid blackstrap :-).
Michael Howe <howe@gp_sparc45.gwl.com> writes:
> Yesterday, we were happily brewing up our Christmas/Holiday offering.
> We were brewing a brownish ale with all of the obligatory holiday spicings
> (including nutmeg,cloves,cinnamon,etc). Everything was going find until
> it was time to add the yeast. As I was about to pour it in, I noticed that
> it was lager yeast instead of ale yeast.
As the saying goes, "relax, don't worry...." Using lager yeast at
room temps produces a "steam beer", as in Anchor Steam. You'll get
a quite different flavor profile from the lager yeast due to different
ester production, but it ought to work fine. In fact, I just bottled
a batch of steam beer (a hoppier-than-usual amber ale fermented with
WYeast Pilsen lager yeast). It tastes great. Also, the spices will
help mask any off flavors or aromas, should any develop.
I did notice, however, that my steam beer was still cloudy and extremely
live after two weeks of secondary fermentation. It was still dropping
in gravity, but veeery slowly. I went ahead and bottled at 1.016,
hoping I wasn't setting myself up for gushers.
Does lager yeast take longer to finish than ale yeast even at room
temperatures? Barring infection (which I don't think happened), that's
the only thing I can think of to explain the activity after so long.
- --
Jeff Benjamin benji@hpfcla.fc.hp.com
Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado
"Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium."
- T.S. Eliot
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 13:00 CDT
From: iepubj!korz@ihlpa.att.com
Subject: Bananabrau Results
Well, late, as usual, but as promised, the data from my Wyeast Belgian
banana ester poll. Here's the raw data:
Style OG FG Glucose Sucrose Primary Secondary Banana nose
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
"Chimay" 1087 1027 yes yes 71 - Overpowering
unk unk unk unk unk 75-80 75-80 None
unk unk unk unk unk 75 65 None
Con. Brown unk unk unk unk 67 - None
Single unk unk unk unk 67 - None
Trippel high unk unk unk 67 - Slight
unk 1076 unk unk unk 74-80 - None
unk 1076 unk unk unk 74-80 - Yes
unk unk unk unk unk 60-65 - None
unk unk unk unk unk 68-72 68-72 None
unk unk unk unk unk 65-68 68-72 None
Imp Stout high unk unk unk 62 - None
"Kriek" 1075 unk unk unk 80-85 - Masked by cherry?
unk unk unk unk unk 76 - None
unk 1074 1013 yes unk 60 - Tons, gone in few months
unk 1072 unk unk unk 65 - Lots, less in few months
"Chimay" med unk possbl yes 70s - Yes
"Chimay" high unk no yes 60s - None
"Chimay" 1099 1033 possbl no 65-70 - Some, less in 4 months
ale 1070 1022 unk unk 70 70 Strong but faded quickly
unk unk unk unk unk 68 - Some, less in few months
Thanks to (in alphabetical order with no correlation to the data above):
Brian, Carl, Glenn, Glenn, Jeff, Jeff, John, Jon, Phil, Rob, Tim, Tom,
Tom, and Tony.
Jeff Frane also wrote:
>I actually spoke to him about it late last fall; I was under the
>impression he planned on notifying retailers -- who could notify buyers
>-- that temperatures should be held at 60F or below: a recommendation
>which came from Martin Lodahl's use of cultured Chimay yeast.
I'm not that good at massaging data, maybe some of the rest of you are, but
I don't see a correlation with temperature. However, high-gravity and
high-glucose seem to have some effect. There was a suggestion that there
was a bad batch of yeast, but alas, no data on the date codes. I've been
recording my Wyeast date codes, but don't have anyone else's.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 13:31:20 CDT
From: bliss@csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: Wyeast Belgian
well, I made another batch using Wyeast Belgian ale yeast 2 weeks
ago. pretty similar to the one I made this spring, but not quite
as strong. Both were fermented 65-70F (varying with the weather),
except that I let this latest batch get pretty hot during the first
few days of fermentation, as I wrapped the carboy in a towel, which
helps keep the heat of fermentation in.
Unlike the first batch, this latest batch does not have the obnox-
ious banana esters. One other difference between the two batches
was that the latest batch had 2 lb raw cane sugar in it. Could the
(relative lack of) simple sugars lead to the production of banana
esters by the yeast? Were all those banana estery batches people
experienced also all-malt brews? Did anybody use an appreciable
amount of sugar in a batch fermented with yeast belgian, and notice
excessive banana esters? If so, what kind of sugar was it?
looking for a few data points on this not-yet-examined variable,
bb
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1992 11:35:28 -0800 (PDT)
From: Peter Maxwell <peterm@hpdtlpm.ctgsc.hp.com>
Subject: efficient wort chilling
> For rapid and efficient wort chilling: I use an immersion-type wort chiller
>and I live in drought-stricken Santa Cruz (no water, but 3 brew pubs! 8-). To
>ease the water usage of wort chilling, I have developed the following method
>(excuse me if this is obvious!). I siphon water from an intake bucket with ice
>in it, thru the wort chiller, into an outflow bucket. The ice water chills the
>wort rapidly, I use much less water than if using straight tap water, and I can
>easily control the flow rate by changing the height of the uptake bucket.
>
Although I don't have the added advantage of ice, I conserve water by
putting the outlet of the chiller into the washing machine. I get
pre-warmed water and waste nothing. There has never been a problem in
trying to synchronize dirty clothes with brewing :-)
Peter
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 11:38:10 PDT
From: Richard Childers <rchilder@us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: Oops! -Lager yeast goof..
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1992 09:12:23 -0600
>From: Michael Howe <howe@gp_sparc45.gwl.com>
>Subject: Oops! -Lager yeast goof..
"Yesterday, we were happily brewing up our Christmas/Holiday offering.
We were brewing a brownish ale with all of the obligatory holiday spicings
(including nutmeg,cloves,cinnamon,etc). Everything was going find until
it was time to add the yeast. As I was about to pour it in, I noticed that
it was lager yeast instead of ale yeast. ... Now the problem, as I see it,
is that we should allow fermentation to take place in a cooler environment
for the yeast to be able to do it's thing( is this correct?). We do not
have an environment to do so. Are we wasting our time allowing it to
ferment at room temperature (about 68 F.) or not."
Try it and see ... lager yeasts are known to ferment at higher temps than
conventions dictate. It's the only thing you can do, now.
You can lower the temperature by putting it in a tub of ice, or placing it
in a basement or cool place in the house, away from the sun, resting on the
foundation of the house, perhaps even submerged in your bathtub, with ice
added periodically.
- -- richard
=====
- -- richard childers rchilder@us.oracle.com 1 415 506 2411
oracle data center -- unix systems & network administration
Klein flask for rent. Inquire within.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 14:50:01 EDT
From: gordon@Stars.Reston.Unisys.COM
Subject: Re: Wyeast #2112 California Lager Yeast
/-/ello:
A while back I used Wyeast #2112 on a batch of ale, because
I didn't even realize it was a lager yeast at the time
(obviously, I'm fairly new to this craft). The batch fermented
at 65 F to 75 F and came out just fine. The batch, named "2112
Red Star" (no relation to Red Star yeast =^), had a complex
character and received many compliments, though it was,
unfortunately, underhopped. I may even try this again, though
with more hops.
Just goes to show you: Necessity may be the mother of
invention, but Ignorance sometimes makes a good father.
Cheers,
Del
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1992 16:03 EST
From: STROUD <STROUD%GAIA@leia.polaroid.com>
Subject: Revisionist history revisited
In HBD#993 Darryl Richman suggests that Anchor was the first US micro to
produce a wheat beer.
I believe that the late, but not forgotten, Hibernia Brewing Co. (from Eau
Clair ???, Wisconsin) was selling their Dunkel Weizen quite a while before
Anchor's product ever hit the market. I recall it as being the first American
brewed wheat beer that I ever saw.
As far as wheat beer and snobbery go, I land somewhere in the area of Jon
Binkley. Most American wheat ales aren't worth the effort, *especially* given
the price and the availability of German weizens.
There are a few exceptions, most notably Celis White from Austin. A group of
Boston-area homebrewers just got back from the Dixie Cup; while there, we
visited the Celis brewery and were given a most gracious welcome. Their White
beer is a world-class witbier in every way, *and* it is priced well (local beer
stores sold it at ~$21/case or ~$6/sixpack). It is a delicious, flavorful,
quenching beverage, well-suited to the Texas climate. If you live in San
Francisco or Boston, you will see it soon in your local market.
And if you'd like something to look forward to, Celis just produced a batch of
Celis Grand Cru. (SG ~ 18.1 plato). It is happily fermenting in the primary
even as I type. I look forward to trying a bottle or two when it is available
(we were told that it should hit the shelves and taps around Dec. 1)
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 20:23:51 GMT
From: weissborn@dfwdsr.SINet.SLB.COM
Subject: please add me to the list
I would like to be added to the list. I have tried
sending to HOMEBREW-REQUEST@HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM but have
never received either an ack or a digest.
I am:
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Bill Weissborn
Schlumberger Well Services
Data Services Region -- System Support Staff Engineer
4100 Spring Valley Rd. Suite 600 weissborn%dfwvx1@hub.sinet.slb.com
Dallas, Tx. 75244 or try: billw@hub.sinet.slb.com
(214) 980-7924 or : dfwdsr::weissborn
"I got to play baseball...I got a chance to hit..." Ted Williams
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 13:35:10 PDT
From: Robert Pulliam <pulliam@monty.rand.org>
Subject: "California Reds"
Greetings Brewmeisters,
I read here recently about "California Reds", and was wondering if
anyone out there might have a recipe for one (preferably all grain
but extract will do just fine). Also (and I know that this has
probably been beaten to death) could someone let me know why no one
uses Aluminum pots to brew with.
Just a novice having fun. Robert
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 14:05:53 PDT
From: "John Cotterill" <johnc@hprpcd.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Boiler Crud Removal? Thanks...
Full-Name: "John Cotterill"
I was looking at my SS boiling kettle yesterday and I noticed the inside
bottom is coated with some hard white crud. I assume this is some form of
calcium precipitated from boiling hard water. The other thing that I noticed
are rings of dis-colored stainless steel running away from the bottom of the
boiler up the sides of the boiler. I think this indicates something about the
metal temperature during boiling. It occured to me that maybe the white crud
acts as an insulator and is changing the boiling characteristics of by boiler.
Even if its not a real problem, I want to remove it. Does anyone know what
works best for getting rid of the white stuff???
And thanks to all who responded on places to visit in Vancouver WA. I can't
wait to get up there.
JC
johnc@hprpcd.rose.hp.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 15:20 PDT
From: dougd@uts.amdahl.com (Douglas DeMers)
Subject: Re: Please, clean up files
Pierre Jelenc writes:
>Dear HBD contributors,
>Please try to submit pure ASCII files for publications. For those of us
>who must print because of time quotas that preclude reading on-line,
>all these CTRL-Z, CTRL-L, ESC, and other non-printing characters wreak
>havoc with paper-saving 4-pages-to-a-sheet printing programs.[...]
Alas, you are better off writing a quick & dirty filter which strips
out offending characters. Always run the file through it prior to
printing.
- --
Douglas DeMers, | (408-746-8546) | dougd@uts.amdahl.com
Amdahl Corporation | | {sun,uunet}!amdahl!dougd
[It should be obvious that the opinions above are mine, not Amdahl's.]
[ Amdahl makes computers, not beer. ]
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Date: Tue, 20 Oct 92 21:11 CDT
From: fjdobner@ihlpb.att.com
Subject: Another Brewpub Beachhead
I have just seen an article that my father sent me from the South Bend Tribune.
Subject is Indiana now has its fourth brewery. It supposedly opened yesterday
and serves the Mishawaka, Indiana area. An interesting difference struck
me from other openings of microbreweries of brewpubs: this one is in a
rather small town (~20,000 people). Capacity of 1,500 barrels per year
crafting four styles of beer: Founder's Classic Dry Stout, Mishawaka Gold
Lager, South Shore Amber Ale, and Lake Effect Pale Ale. The menu features
American favorites as well as typical English fare (shepherd's pie, fish
and chips, Scotch eggs, and ham and leek pie).
Supposedly, one can even join the Anacreontic Society (named after a 1800's
English men's health club). Anacreon was an ancient Greek writer of love poems
and drinking songs. Meetings are held at the brewpub. The meetings begin
by singing the song (Anacreon in Heaven) sung to melody we know in
the US as The Star Spangled Banner." I may attend....
Altough towns like Hopland (population of 700) have been able to support
brewpubs on the left coast, the midwest has been a bit slower in coming
around. BTW the brewpub is called Mishawaka Brewing Company.
Frank Dobner
PS: Anybody know anything more about it, please post it!
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #995, 10/21/92
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