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HOMEBREW Digest #0907
This file received at Sierra.Stanford.EDU 92/06/22 00:09:40
HOMEBREW Digest #907 Mon 22 June 1992
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Re: Aeration with aquarium pumps (Barry Cunningham)
Midwest beer and a request ("Dr. John")
liquid yeast (Michael Gildner)
Wort Chillers and Kegs (KIERAN O'CONNOR)
English Bitter styles (G.A.Cooper)
Beer Barrels (Phil Bacon)
Samuel Adams Wheat Brew (Rob Winters)
Spruce Essence, etc . . . (sami)
home brew list (BORNSTEIN)
Beer Styles (George Fix) (George J Fix)
Re: Reading SG from wort after it's in the Carboy? (reid)
Re: Specific gravity readings (Dances with Workstations)
Michael Jackson's 4 star beers (Bob Devine 19-Jun-1992 1054)
English Bitter, etc. (stevie)
yeast starter karausen (Bryan Gros)
Cherries lost in the snow (korz)
Beer Snobs (Jack Schmidling)
Beginner ("Sheheryar Hasnain")
Air filters (BOB JONES)
Fruit beers info compilation (lee_menegoni)
Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt (FUD) over trub (Josh Grosse)
Recipe request: Fuller's "London Pride" (James Paschetto)
AHA transcripts (Jeff Frane)
BBC vs BBC lawsuit (chuck)
Southside Steam Beer (Nick Cuccia)
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(Stay tuned for info on a new archive site)
**Please do not send me requests for back issues!**
**For Cat's Meow information, send mail to lutzen@novell.physics.umr.edu**
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 08:11:42 EDT
From: bwc@icd.ab.com (Barry Cunningham)
Subject: Re: Aeration with aquarium pumps
In Homebrew Digest #906 (June 19, 1992) Bryan Olson (bryan@tekgen.bv.tek.com)
asks:
> Anyone have any phone numbers or addresses for somewhere that sells
> the .1 or .2 micron air filters mentioned in the last couple of digests?
> I.e. ones that can be attached to aquarium pumps.
Since a couple of people have written me asking the very same question, I
thought I ought to post the answer. The 0.2 micron filters can be obtained
from Alberta Rager, of course, at
Bacchus & Barleycorn, Ltd.
8725Z Johnson Drive
Merriam, KS 66202
(913) 262-4243
I got the impression from Alberta at her talk that one would have a lot of
trouble finding these otherwise.
| Barry Cunningham bwc@icd.ab.com |
| Allen-Bradley Company, Inc. or ICCGCC::CUNNINGHAMB |
| 747 Alpha Drive or BWCUNNIN@MRGSD@REMNET |
| Highland Hts., OH 44143 phone: (216) 646-5241 FAX: (216) 646-4484 |
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 08:19:40 EDT
From: "Dr. John" <JELJ@CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu>
Subject: Midwest beer and a request
Greetings all,
After reading the various reports on the AHA conference, I'm sorry
(mostly) that I was unable to attend this year. Lest the wrong impression,
that hops are unknown in the midwest, be left with too many digest
subscribers, let me suggest that all you hopheads seek out, drink, and savor
both the August Schell Pilsner, and the Capital Special. Unless the recipes
have been radically altered of late, I think you will find that both of these
fine MIDWESTERN lagers feature an adequate hop character. A noted British
beer expert has commented that Capital brews ". . . a Pilsener called Special
**->*** that has lots of hop taste . . ." A couple pages later, this same
expert notes that Schell's "products include a good, hoppy Pils*** . . ." I'm
sure that there are other hoppy beers brewed in the midwest, these just happen
to be two of my favorites, and two which should give the lie to the notion
that midwest micro-brewed lagers are generally lacking in hop character.
On another note, I'll be travelling to Baltimore in early August for the
American Agricultural Economics Association's annual meeting. So far, I've
uncovered a few possibilities for nighttime relaxation and recovery from the
days' presentations of esoteric research papers:
Baltimore Brewing Company,
Sissons/South Baltimore Brewing,
and perhaps Bertha's Mussels (reputedly serving a cask-conditioned Oxford
Ale from British Brewing Company on the weekends). I welcome private e-mail
evaluations of all, or any, of these, suggestions for other possibilities
for an enjoyable evening's beer drinking, and information on good retail
beer outlets.
Ooogy wawa,
Dr. John
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 07:42:35 EDT
From: mmlai!lucy!gildner@uunet.UU.NET (Michael Gildner)
Subject: liquid yeast
Hello Brewers,
I was at my local homebrew supply store last night
and the proprietor said that a new brand of liquid
yeast is coming later this summer. Does anyone
have more details on this rumor?
I've decided to make a batch a Charlie P.'s Rocky
Raccoon Lager. However, I not setup for lagers so
I'll be brewing R.R. Ale. Does anyone have any
comments on what I should expect?
Extra:
I toured the Frankenmuth Brewery in Frankenmuth,
Michigan last weekend. The tour consisted of a short
video, looking through small windows and tasting
samples. What can you expect for $1.50 ? Their
Old Detroit Amber Ale and Pilsner were terrific. My next stop
was a school reunion where the only beer to drink was Blatz.
What a let down.
Mike Gildner
"Brew like Mike"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1992 09:00 EDT
From: KIERAN O'CONNOR <OCONNOR%SNYCORVA.bitnet@CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject: Wort Chillers and Kegs
Regarding wort chillers. I'm a high school teacher and I paid (with
Brew) our district plumber to make mine. I bought 50 feet of copper
tubing @ 37$. I also bought all the fittings as decribed in Tuesday's
HBD. Two thoughts:
1) Becuase I have more tubing, mine cools a lot faster. I can get
wort from 212 to 50 degrees in 18 minutes. Thats a little faster than
what I have read.
2) I have these quick connect garden hose connections (bought from my
friend Dwight's suggestion). You hook then to the hoses and to the
chiller. Then you dont have to worry about twisting the hoses to
connect them to the chiller and to the faucet. I would get the brass
ones, they are more expensive, but i would figure more durable too.
3) You might think aobut a cvounter flow chiller. It is better in
that you chill parts of the wort to 50 degrees or whatever, and the
rest of the mass is at 200 degrees, prenting infections. However you
have to deal with filters, and sterilization etc.
On Kegs:
1) Go to a restaurant and see if they will sell them to you for a
meager price. Dwight went to a local joint and they would be happy to
part w/em for 10$/keg. You may be able to do better/worse, but its
cheaper than new ones.
Kieran O'Connor
oconnor@snycorva.bitnet
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1992 15:01:00 +0100
From: G.A.Cooper@qmw.ac.uk
Subject: English Bitter styles
Hi
I had just joined this list and spotted:
> I'd like some info on the English bitter ale style. What characteristics
> define an English bitter?
Eric Pepke replies well, and observes "Bitter" is a continuum not a point.
I offer the following definitions for your thoughts. It is true that
precise
beer style definitions are not normally produced, but the homebrewers over
here do just that. The National Guild of Wine and Beer Judges (NGWBJ) is
the
organisation to which 'certified' amateur judges belong and they publish,
for
the guidance of judges and competitors, a small book which includes the
these
definitions:
Light Ale.
The term 'light' refers to the flavour and not colour, so with an OG of
30-35 and alcohol level of 3-3.5%, the colour may vary from straw to
amber.
The beer should have a bouquet light in hop. The taste should be clean,
dry
and lightly hopped with no flavour components too prominent.
Pale Ale or Bottled Bitter.
OG should be from 40-45 and the colour from golden to deep copper. The
aroma
of hops in the bouquet should lead to those of malt and grain. The flavour
should be full, malty and grainy with a hoppy bitter farewell and perhaps
a
little sweetness from residual dextrins. Alcohol content ranges from 4-5%.
India Pale Ale.
This full bodied premium bitter has an OG of 50-60, and a rich golden to
deep copper colour. The bouquet should be hoppy, alcoholic and grainy. The
flavour should be full, malty and grainy with a prominent hop and a clean
bitter farewell. There should be a little residual sweetness to balance
the
hop. Alcohol content is from 5-6.5%.
These are, therefore, the definitions to which the amateurs work, but they
do
not always translate directly into the commercial arena. For example, most
pubs would regard 'light ale' and 'pale ale' as synonymous. Also,
historically
IPA was the premium bitter as we describe it above, but it is now often the
name given to the 'ordinary' bitter in a pub.
> One more thing: do not use Cascade hops under any circumstances.
> Use Northern Brewer or something like that.
I personally don't use Northern Brewer as it can be a little aggressive on
the palate. As others have observed, it is difficult to beat Fuggle or
Golding
on the nose of a good bitter.
Geoff Cooper
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Geoff Cooper Phone: +44 (0)71 975 5178
Computing Services Fax: +44 (0)71 975 5500
QMW e-mail: G.A.Cooper@uk.ac.qmw
Mile End Road
London
E1 4NS
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 15:04:00 BST
From: pbacon@CVEDG.Prime.COM (Phil Bacon)
Subject: Beer Barrels
I am a plastics brewer(imperial measures),
Glass would be nice but so easy to loose 5 gall of sticky mess all over my
kitchen floor more than enough to run all over the living room carpet.
I use a 6 gall plastic pail for primary,
For secondary i have the option of using polypins(3).
These are very handy plastic containers that hold about 36pints(when full)
they are a cube with a tap, replace tap with airlock one secondary fermenter.
They have a cardboard container which is stiff enough to carry around so
they are easy to move. They compress so out goes all the air before the
tap/lock goes on. NOTE : They are not PRESSURE vessels so LOW pressure only.
The source for these is my local brewery they sell beer in them(#40ish).
Second hand empty about #2 ($3.60)
I also use them for dispencing my dry still ciders. When the need arises i
use them for taking larger quantities to parties "brite"(sp).
I have 3 barrels a roto-keg,edme and Boots(edme i think). They all have
CO2 injector system and pressure release valves. The key to stopping leaks
is to set the spring loaded valve correctly(if it leaks loosen next time).
Use without pressure release valve = leak
My process is rack into barrel prime close lid and wait, after 2 weeks check
condition when ready drink. when priming sugar all used up add a little CO2
out comes some more beer when finished clean sanitize start again.
(can often get away with no added gas).
The nice thing about the barrels is they have a float so you can use the
clear beer at the top and follow it down to the base of the keg.
Use without the float takes a little longer to clear but gives the beer
more time to condition but will require more gas as the contents is used.
I have had beer in the kegs for upto 6 months without any ill effects.
COST NEW about #20 for the boots keg. If anyone is realy interested
i can get prices for others and accesories but there must be someone in the
UK that reads this digest that knows. Second hand #5-#10 depends if the
seller knows how much a new one is.
I bought my roto-keg for #15(new) the others i got from the growing number of
EX homebrewers - MARRAGE + HOMEBREW = MORE Kit for me(i love weddings).
I have a co-worker who works in MA. will take any plastic kegs that are taking
up the valuable space in your garage ;-)
-------------------------
|Phil Bacon |
|pbacon@cvedg.prime.com |
|44-494-474477 Work |
|44-296-415546 Brewery |
-------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1992 10:30:20 -0500
From: rwinters@nhqvax.hq.nasa.gov (Rob Winters)
Subject: Samuel Adams Wheat Brew
I found _Samuel_Adams_"Wheat_Brew"_ in my local liquor store the other day.
Is this new stuff? Has anyone else seen or tried it? I've never tried wheat
beer before, so I'm interested how this stuff compares to other wheat
beers.
Very odd stuff, and very complex. Quite sweet at first, then sort of
spicey, then a fairly strong hop finish. It has a taste in there at some
point that reminds me of some other food, but I can't quite nail it down.
Ripe cantelope? No. Mulled cider? No.
I guess I'll just have to keep drinking until I figure it out ;-)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 10:33:52 -0400
From: team login(bmn) <team@sl2arc.ho.att.com>
Next week I will be traveling to Santa Fe New Mexico. Does anyone have
any recommendations for brewpubs in the area? Thanks in advance!
John Costelloe
att!homxc!jrcost
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1992 08:07:48 -0800
From: sami@scic.intel.com
Subject: Spruce Essence, etc . . .
Chris asked about timing of spruce essence. We made a batch of Papazian's
Spruce Ale last February, having read what a treat it was supposed to be.
The airhead that I am, I walked out of the brewing store and left the
spruce essence on the counter and didn't notice 'til we were ready to add
it. I called the guys at the store and they said not to worry, pick the
stuff up the next day and just add it during the primary. MISTAKE!!!!! When
we opened the first bottle four weeks later, the familiar aroma of Pine Sol
floated through the apartment. This batch has mellowed somewhat since then.
I tried it two days ago and it still has a strong spruce flavor. Maybe it
will mellow with the years . . . Next time I'll try it like you did.
Sam Israelit
Engineer, Businessman, . . . Brewer
Portland, OR
------------------------------
Date: 19 Jun 92 11:21:49 UT
From: BORNSTEIN@ENS.Prime.COM
Subject: home brew list
Please add me to the mailing list.
bornstein@ens.prime.com
Thank you.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 10:07:08 CDT
From: gjfix@utamat (George J Fix)
Subject: Beer Styles (George Fix)
After a week in Milwaukee it appears many have tired of
malty/sulfury lagers. Jay, I think the use of Pabst with its
elevated DMS levels did not get things started off on the right
foot! I bet, however, after a week in Portland some will tire
of the floral Cascade West Coast taste. For the record, I greatly
admire good beers in both styles. Right now, I crave the original,
namely cask conditioned English ales. Someone point the way to Burton!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 12:14:05 EDT
From: reid@kali.mit.edu
Subject: Re: Reading SG from wort after it's in the Carboy?
Kent Dalton <kentd@bach.ftcollinsco.NCR.COM> writes:
>So, does anyone have any sure fire methods for measuring SG when
>brewing malt extract recipes with glass? I want to minimize the risk
>of ruining a batch since that's why went to the trouble of
>switching, but I still want to know when I can bottle and how
>much alcohol my beers contain ....
Well, we've got a method, but I'm not sure it qualifies at "sure-fire."
We use a glass turkey baster to pull out enough beer to fill a test-tube,
which just fits the hydrometer. The baster has a rubber squeeze bulb
which can be disconnected from the glass tube for easy sterilization.
Most basters these days have plastic bodies (probably for safety reasons)
but you could sanitize them if you make sure the bulb separates.
I got mine at a garage sale (for 25 cents!) but it is vintage 1950's.
Make sure you squeeze the bulb before you stick the end into the carboy
to avoid forcefully blowing nasties into the headspace.
Of course, after all these precautions, sometimes the master brewer then
tosses the contents of the test-tube back into the carboy (heresy, I know,
but never a contaminated batch...). Oh, and another thing -- make sure
the extract/water is really well mixed up before taking readings. Hope
this helps...
Lynn B. Reid
Ralph M. Parsons Laboratory for Water Resources and Environmental Engineering
Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA 02139
Internet/Bitnet: lbreid@athena.mit.edu UUCP: mit-eddie!mit-athena!lbreid
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 12:42:36 EDT
From: Dances with Workstations <buchman@marva1.ENET.dec.com>
Subject: Re: Specific gravity readings
Ken Dalton writes:
> I've tried using the blow off to read my OG but I'm convinced the
> stuff that's blown off is not representative of the whole batch.
So am I. Don't trust SG readings based on blowoff.
> So, does anyone have any sure fire methods for measuring SG when
> brewing malt extract recipes with glass?
Why is it any more difficult to take SG readings in a glass carboy?
Did you formerly put the guage straight into the wort, and now can't
do that because of the narrow opening on a glass carboy?
We take readings by sanitizing our siphon tube and siphoning out enough
wort to fill a 100ml graduated cylinder, into which one of those SG guages
fits very neatly. We don't even have to formally start the siphon, because
one tube's worth fills the cylinder enough to take a reading (don't need to
fill it all the way, since the guage itself displaces some). Any tall,
thin container should work.
Other ideas:
- Avoid taking SG readings without reason, since it is just another
opportunity for infection. We only take SG readings at pitching time,
whenever we transfer to secondary or bottle, or if we suspect something
is wrong.
- Go ahead and drop the SG guage into the carboy anyway! In this,
the glass carboy is better than the plastic because you can monitor the
SG throughout the ferment without opening the carboy again! The only
problem is getting it out again, but a) you can wait until after bottling,
at which time the carboy will be empty; or b) we have had good luck fishing
it with a bottling wand. As your guage bobs proudly in five gallons of
fermented beer, push the wand over the tip of the guage, tilt sideways,
and gently pull the guage out.
Enjoy,
Jim Buchman
buchman@marva1.enet.dec.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 10:08:16 PDT
From: Bob Devine 19-Jun-1992 1054 <devine@cookie.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Michael Jackson's 4 star beers
The Associated Press carried an article on Michael Jackson's "Pocket
Guide to Beer" during the week of the Milwaukee conference. Rather
than type the whole thing in, here are the 32 beers given a 4 star rating.
Belgium
Duvel
Liefmans Goudenband
Rodenback Grand Cru
Westmalle Tripel
Westvleteren Tripel (St Sixtus monastery)
Cantillion Rose de Gambrinus Framboise
Hoegaarden (De Kluis brewery)
Chimay Blue
Orval
Saison Duppont
Czechoslovakia
Pilsner Urquell
England
Brakspear Bitter
Fuller's ESB
Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout
Worthington's White Shield Ale
Marston's Pedigree
Courage's Imperial Russian Stout
Thomas Hardy's Ale (Pope brewery)
Germany
Jever Pilsner (Bavaria St. Pauli brewery)
Export from Dortmunder Kronen
Zum Uerige
Augustiner Hell
Hofbrauhaus Maibock
Paulaner Salvator
Schneider Aventinus
Spaten Ur-Marzen
Kloster Schwarz-Bier (Kulmbacher Monchshof)
Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier
Schultheiss Berliner Weisse
Ireland
Guinness Extra Stout
Scotland
Traquair House Ale
Switzerland
Samichlaus
United States
Anchor Steam beer
Bob Devine
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 12:09:50 CDT
From: stevie@spss.com
Subject: English Bitter, etc.
Allan Wright and Eric Pepke justifiably recommend a visit to the Commonwealth
Brewery in Boston. The Burton Bitter is a mandatory pint for any beer-loving
visitor to Beantown. Alas, many HBD'ers don't make it East very often.
Luckily, there's a Midwest alternative -- the Bishop's Bitter at the Sherlock's
Home (yeah, yeah, it's a dumb name) brewpub in suburban Minneapolis, MN (in
Minnetonka). It's the best (to my taste, at least) of their four standard
fined and hand-pumped beers (the others are a Scottish Ale, a porter, and a
stout). You'd be hard-pressed to find a more authentic British pint served
in the U.S. And yes, it even has enough hops to satisfy a Portland homebrewer!
Finally, I'd also like to say how much fun it was to match the faces up with
the net addresses at the AHA conference. Hell, even in those cases where
we had actually met before, our network connection added a new element for
lively discussions and great laughs. Hard to believe, but Jack and his Arf
Generic are no longer "Chicago's Own" -- it's about time we shared him with
the world...
And for those of you who did NOT mistake me for Jeff Mendel, a hearty thank you.
- ------
Steve Hamburg Internet: stevie@spss.com
SPSS Inc. Phone: 312/329-3445
Chicago, IL Fax: 312/329-3657
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 10:29:39 PDT
From: bgros@sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan Gros)
Subject: yeast starter karausen
In answer to questions from a few days ago, the way I tell when
to pitch from my yeast starter is by looking for bubbles.
There is usually only a very small layer of bubbles on the surface,
but if you look close at the "beer", you'll see a lot of bubbles
rising through the beer to the surface. Then you know the yeast
is very active. Of course if you use a dark bottle, then it
will be harder to tell. Maybe hold it up to a window.
- Bryan
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 12:35 CDT
From: korz@iepubj.att.com
Subject: Cherries lost in the snow
Regarding the article on fruit in the latest Zymurgy, which suggests
0.5 to 2 lbs of cherries per gallon, I have another data point. I
used a 96 fl. oz. can of Cherry Wine Base split between two 5 gallon
batches. The net weight was not given, but the gross weight of the
can was 6.5 lbs. The cherries were whole with pits included. There
was a medium, dark red "syrup" in the can along with the whole cherries.
There was no indication as to the composition of the "syrup."
I hypothesized that if this can was meant to make 5 gallons of cherry
wine, then it should have enough flavor to add some subtile cherry notes
to two 5 gallon batches of beer. Not so.
The first batch was a sweet stout with 6.6 lbs of John Bull unhopped
Malt Extract syrup and some crystal malt. I added the 48 fl. oz. immediately
after turning off the heat. The resulting beer had no cherry flavor or
aroma. In fact, I entered this beer in the AHA Competition and it scored a 38.
Suspecting that the CO2 produced during fermentation scrubbed the cherry
aromatics out of the beer, I decided to add the second half of the cherries
(stored in a glass jar in the fridge for 10 days) in the secondary of
a lightly hopped (by midwestern standards :^) pale ale. I boiled up two
quarts of water and then added the cherries to it to "sanitize." The resulting
beer had a slight tendancy towards an orange color, clarity was fair-to-poor,
a little bit of cherry aroma at bottling time (none after conditioning at 65F
for two weeks) and the cherry flavor was so slight, that if you didn't know
it was supposed to be a cherry ale, you would blame esters for the fruity
notes.
My contention is that, at least with canned Cherry Wine Base, 0.6 lbs/gallon
is not enough and even 1 lb/gallon may not be enough either.
I'm off to Michigan tomorrow morning to pick *fresh* cherries, if the
blasted birds haven't beaten me to them.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 09:14 CDT
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Beer Snobs
To: Homebrew Digest
Fm: Jack Schmidling
> -- R. Al Marshall
>Subject: Lupulophobia in Milwaukee
>Basically, I'm impressed by the report that Jack's beer is clean (and
unoxidized?).
But of course, what you do not know is that I had previously agreed to write
a glowing review of the Fix's new book. :)
From a philosophical and political viewpoint, I think your comments are most
poignant. However, having been present at the tasting in person and being
the Master Brewer of the beer in question, I can assure you that the comments
on balance (or at least hoppiness) were probably appropriate.
First of all, watching George's lovely wife stick her nose in the beer and
snort like a rhino really made one believe they were serious. When she came
up for air and pronounced it clean, a new era was ushered into the world of
homebrewing and church bells rang round the world.
Their comments on the hops actually were an impressive insight into their
credibility as judges of beer and my own growing taste awareness. Please
understand I mean judges in the common usage, not the politically correct,
AHA approved type.
That particular batch of beer, AGA #23 was an experiment in hoppiness. My
standard hopping rate has been 1 oz Chinook and .5 oz Saaz. Wanting to get a
feel for the effect of hops in beer, I doubled the Chinook in this batch to
make sure I would not miss it if the difference was subtle.
Our impression of the beer was that it is great with popcorn but if tasted
with a clean mouth, it is a bit too bitter for our taste. However
considering the fact that Marilyn and I usually have a bowl of popcorn with
our daily glass of beer, it seems appropriate for a "popcorn style" ale. We,
like most people, share our beer with lots of brainwashed Americans and most
of them probably would also find it too bitter.
So the comments on hops are not surprising. We simply brought the keg that
was next in line, not one specially brewed to impress convention folk.
The comments on maltiness are far more interesting to us because this batch
also was a departure from our normal generic pale malt. We substituted 5
pounds (1/2 the total) of expensive, imported "Munich malt" for the .55/lb
Harrington we buy from Minnesota Malting. We were unimpressed with the
difference. In fact, when comparing it with the standard, we either could
not tell the difference or preferred the standard.
So, in summary, I am glad the Fix's were there to taste it and I am glad
there are people out there willing to put beer snobs in their place. But you
may rest assured that beer snobs, the Fix's most assuredly are not.
>From: melkor!rick@uunet.UU.NET (Rick Larson)
>Subject: Re: Cheap Kegs and related hardware
>BTW, don't bother calling Cornelius for kegs, they are wholesale only.
Try looking in the classifieds under Restaurant Equipment (or Brew&Grow).
Anyone know of other places for kegs?
I bought my first keg through the mail for $35 plus shipping. On my next
trip to the scrap yard where I buy my aluminum for MALTMILL castings, I spied
a mountain of Coke kegs under a snow bank. I offered him $5 and he glowed
like I really blew it. I took two home to see if they were any good and when
I got around to going back for more, they were of course, gone.
The good news is that he had a few more the next time I went for aluminum.
So I suggest checking out scrap yards, you may get lucky but start by
offering a buck. Is that cheap enough?
js
Hope this helps,
rick
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: 19 Jun 92 15:43:15 U
From: "Sheheryar Hasnain" <sheheryar_hasnain@fpm.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Beginner
Subject: Time:3:30 PM
OFFICE MEMO Beginner Date:6/19/92
Hi,
Could anyone post me the absolute basics of making beer at home. I have never
attempted it. Could you include everything about it?
Thanks
Sheheryar
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1992 14:10 PDT
From: BOB JONES <BJONES@NOVAX.llnl.gov>
Subject: Air filters
Let me tell you about an experiment I read about in a microbiology text
once upon a time. Keep in mind here that I am not a microbiologist. There
was this test apparatus set up to try and figure out why things would spoil.
You see in those days they didn't know about yeast or bacteria and didn't
have high power microscopes. They didn't even have HLP :-). Ok the test
setup looked something like this...
=====[ cotton plug]=====< air pump
|| ||
|-||---||-|
| || || |
| || || |
| |
flask | |
| |
|---------|
| |
| growth |
| media |
|_________|
|\|\|\|\
Burner
Ok, now you boil the growth media in the flask for a while, then you turn
on the air pump and push air through the cotton filter onto the growth
media. Well nothing would grow in the media. If the cotton plug was removed
and the experiment repeated, the media would quickly cloud up with something
growing in it. This told the experimenters that the spoilage mechanism must
be air born. Well we all know that, but what I learned was how good a
bacterial filter a cotton plug is. So for all you brewers out there looking
for .2 micron filters, you already have one in your medicine cabinet. Do what
I do and just poke a piece in the hose. I am told you should use real cotton
and not polyester. Maybe in a future post and can describe my gadget for oxygen
injection that doesn't require an aquarium pump.
Bob Jones
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 92 16:33:14 EDT
From: lee_menegoni@ptltd.com
Subject: Fruit beers info compilation
I would like to thank all the people who responded to my post. Below is a
list of common threads found in the replies regarding fruit beer which may be
of help to those you planning a fruit beer.
Use a light bodied beer recipe, OG mid 30s, and light extract or grains since:
the fruit taste is subtle and can be easily over powered.
the fruit will also add additional fermentables.
Use very little hops since rasberies and cherries add bitterness.
1 oz max in 5 gallons at 60, 30 and 10 minutes Cascade, Saaz, Hallertaur
e.g. The 1990 AHA Fruit beer recipe used 1/2 oz of Saaz in 3 1/6 oz additions for a 5 gallon rasberry beer
Use at least 1 lb of fruit per gallon brewed.
for strawberries and peaches 2 lb per gallon is suggested
fruit beer isn't cheap to brew if you buy the ingredients.
Do not boil the fruit, add it to the wort after the boil
the boiling process will destroy the taste
boiling also causes problems due to the pectin in fruit, pectin puts the gel
in jam and jelly.
Do not add whole fruit.
crush it or chop it up, others suggest freezing berries to cause the cell
walls to break but why go to the expense of fresh fruit if you plan to freeze. IMHO fresh berries smell and taste better than frozen.
Other suggetions / comments:
Add pectic enzyme when you add the fruit.
I found beer/wine stores that sold it, it is used in making fruit wine, but
nobody knew how to use it, ie what it does, what temp, how much per lb fruit.
Add more fruit to the secondary.
I wonder what effect adding more fermentables, fructose, will have late in
the fermentation. The intent is to add aromatics like dry hopping.
Place the fruit in water with 1 campden tablet, for S02, for 1 hour to sanitize
Others feel that well washed fruit placed in hot post boil wort will kill the
contaminants and that sulfur even in small quantities, parts per billion, can
have negative effects on taste.
Ferment the whole mess since you can't separate the liquid from the trub/solids. The trub/solids will settle out during the primary fermentation.
In principle I disagree with this since trub is supposed to cause fussel
alcohol production. My expeience with 1 batch of strawberry beer, 8 lbs
berries = 3.25 quarts of berry puree in 4.5 gallons of wort, was the pureed
berries and trub settled out into a thick layer which was about 1.5 gallons of trub / pulp /liquid in about 4 or 5 hours ( I refridgerated the wort trying to get near 32F per Miller's suggestion to maximize percipitates.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 23:02:55 EDT
From: jdg@grex.ann-arbor.mi.us (Josh Grosse)
Subject: Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt (FUD) over trub
In Friday's HBD, Chuck Kenyon asked about some marketing boilerplate
for American Classic DME:
>"... Higher quality control during the malt extraction produces a
>cleaner malt. You will therefore notice a reduced trub level in
>your primary fermentor and as much as a 50% reduction in sediment
>in the bottle with single stage fermentation. Trub is a major
>source of off-flavors in beer through the production of esters
>and fusel alcohols."
>
>There was a recent thread about Trub producing off-flavors, but I
>seem to recall that it ended in a hung-Digest?
A couple of months ago I'd summarized the reasoning behaind Miller's
recommendation:
Leave your wort sitting on top of the hot and cold break
material during the respiration phase (8-12 hours), then
rack off the sediment.
I'd have to go back to the old HBD to look up the specifics, but
I remember the generality quite clearly:
During respiration, cell production uses lots of trub components
and your lag time will be reduced. Afterwords, the trub is harmful
by contributing to overproduction of fusel alcohols and esters (which
are combinations of fusel alcohols and fatty acids).
>Has anybody got any theories as to what effects (and why) this
>high-vac distillation will have on the body and clarity of the
>finished beer? ...
The only theory I have is once again stolen from Dave Miller: higher
vacuum means lower boiling point, which equals less carmelization.
Should there be less trub? I'd have to refer to Fred Scheer, Brewmaster and
Technical Director of the Frankenmuth Brewery, and industry consultant. I
guess all those BJCP classes paid off. I believe I recall his comment that
you should have something less than 20% by volume. I hope this helps.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 92 17:59:01 -0400
From: jp07@gte.com (James Paschetto)
Subject: Recipe request: Fuller's "London Pride"
Fuller's "London Pride," to me, is like the best of the pub brews I've
had when visiting England. Does anyone out there have a recipe for its ilk?
Thanks in advance.
Jim
jp07@t
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 92 11:46:22 PDT
From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: AHA transcripts
Sam Israelit asked about transcripts from the AHA conference in
Milwaukee. These are scheduled to be published within two months, I
believe; this year they got all the manuscripts in advance and -- except
for some last minute changes-- everything is at the publisher. The plan
for next year is to have the transcripts available at the conference,
with room for notes after each article. Sam -- or anyone else
interested -- should contact the AHA or their local homebrew store for a
copy of the book.
- --Jeff Frane
------------------------------
Date: Sun Jun 21 00:12:01 1992
From: synchro!chuck@uunet.UU.NET
Subject: BBC vs BBC lawsuit
Since this lawsuit seems to have national interest, I thought I'd let you all
know the results.
Background: The Boston Beer Company (contract brewer/microbrewer) recently
sued the Boston Beer Works (brewpub) for $1,000,000 for trademark
infringement. This lawsuit made the front page of at least one of the local
newspapers. I wrote a letter to the court expressing my opinion that the
lawsuit was baseless.
During the course of the 1 day trial, Jim Koch threatened to sue Boston Beer
Brands (distributor/wholesaler) and the Commonwealth Brewery (brewpub). Why
Commonwealth? Because they used the word "Boston" in the name of one of their
beers.
In the surprisingly quick trial, the judge ruled against the Boston Beer
Company. They have 20 days to appeal. The judge reportedly issued a 20+ page
ruling stating that "Boston" and "Boston Beer" were generic names and could
not be protected. For reasons that escape me, I have been asked not to read
the ruling until the appeal period has expired, as I may be requested to
testify if there is an appeal.
I'll let you know if the BBC is actually stupid enough to appeal, or if there
is anything interesting in the finding when I get to read it.
=====
Chuck Cox
chuck@synchro.com
In de hemel is geen bier, daarom drinken wij het hier.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 92 15:05:23 -0700
From: Nick Cuccia <cuccia@remarque.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Southside Steam Beer
This is a steam beer recipe that I created last month. It's not quite as
hoppy as it should be; this is largely due to my not correcting my hop util.
for whole hops. Nevertheless, this is my best brew to date (although the
porter I've just bottled may surpass this one).
Southside Steam Beer
5 Gallons
8# Klages malt
1# light munich malt
1/2# 10L Crystal
1/4# 40L Crystal
1/4# 80L Crystal
2 oz Northern Brewer Hops (Whole) (7.5% a)
1T Irish Moss
Wyeast #2112 Calif Lager yeast in 1/2 gal starter
Mash Schedule: Elapsed Time
Mash-in @ 130F/Protein rest @ 122F :00
Starch Conversion @ 150F :30
Starch Conversion @ 156F 1:30
Mash-out @ 166F 2:00
Sparge @ 170F 2:15
Finished 3:15 //stuck :-(
Boil Schedule:
1/2 oz NB :00
3/4 oz NB & Irish Moss :30
3/4 oz NB :55
Chilled 1:00
Ferment Schedule: Days Lapsed Gravity
Pitched yeast Slurry 0 1.054
Racked 11 1.010
Bottled 16 1.010
The beer, appearances-wise, is a dead ringer for Anchor Steam; my SO could not
tell the two apart on the basis of appearance. As I mentioned, the hop flavor
isn't as strong as it should be. In any case, darn nice beer.
- --Nick
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #907, 06/22/92
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