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HOMEBREW Digest #0834
This file received at Mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU 92/03/02 05:56:54
HOMEBREW Digest #834 Mon 02 March 1992
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Re: use of hops (korz)
Yeast Wash Method? (Lee J. Slezak)
Beer Judge Exam Study Guide (chuck)
Beer Drinkers Phrasebook (chuck)
<Concierge NOTICE> (Stan Schwerin)
PU hops (korz)
Wheat Beer, Mixing Beers (aew)
pride,ss,wyeast (Russ Gelinas)
Gemstate (Loren Carter)
Counter Pressure Filler (GEOFF REEVES)
The HBD and how it operates (chrisbpj)
Cider making (Daniel Roman)
Mead problems (Daniel Roman)
Long Fermentation ("John Cotterill")
Heaters from Micah Millsapw (Bob Jones)
British Beer Flavors from Micah Millspaw (Bob Jones)
Kettle Hop Schedules (John Hartman)
Digital Hydrometer? (adietz)
OG 1.088 Stout status report (Eric Mintz)
Reaffirming Propane (chris campanelli)
cats_meow ("Thomas Tomazin")
Invert Sugar (Tony Quince)
Types of Bottles (N E N Strangelove)
Skunked beer in cans (Scott Bickham)
side-by-side yeast comparison (Bob Devine 29-Feb-1992 1041)
Anchor Steam Recipie? (Todd breslow)
Australia visit ("Charlie Papazian\\Boulder")
What to make first (trwagner)
unsuscribe (Richard J. Sumner)
History of breweries (Chuck Coronella)
History of breweries (Chuck Coronella)
Send submissions to homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues!]
Archives are available from netlib@mthvax.cs.miami.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 92 19:02 CST
From: korz@ihlpl.att.com
Subject: Re: use of hops
I'm afraid I've lost the originator (sorry) of this question:
>4 use of hops... during boil... end of boil... or both.. why...
Randy took a shot at this question -- I'd like to add more.
Hops add bittering, flavor and bouquet. They also have antiseptic
qualities, i.e. they *reduce* your chances of getting an infection.
All hops are not created equal. All can provide bittering, the level
of which is dependant on the amount of alpha acid that they contain.
Some produce a pleasant bouquet, some an unpleasant one. Some that
have traditionally used just for bittering (Nugget, for example) are
now being used for aroma also. Each variety of hops has a range of
% alpha acid (%AA), which depends on the region and how their growing
season went that year.
Bittering:
Bittering hops, aka boiling hops, aka copper hops (the Brits call the
kettle a copper), aka kettle hops... all of these describe the addition
of hops for a long boil -- this addition of hops will provide bittering.
The amount of bittering that they will provide is dependant on their
%AA and on the length of the boil. If you boil an addition of hops
longer than 15 minutes or so, you will certainly boil away all the
bouquet and probably most of the flavor. Therefore, any hops you boil
for longer than about 15 minutes are effectively only for bittering.
It has been recently noted in this forum, that maybe the variety of
the hops you use for bittering can make a difference in the flavor.
The jury is still out on this issue. Why use a high alpha (high %AA)
hop for bittering? Well, you can get the same amount of bitterness
from $1 of Centennial as you can from $8 of Saaz.
Flavoring:
Hops that you boil for more than about 5 minutes will lose most of their
bouquet and if you boil less than 15 minutes, you won't get much bittering
from them, so what good are they? Well, they provide flavoring.
I haven't found much on "flavoring hops" in literature, so I can't
say much more about them. I usually don't use them unless I'm following
a recipe directly.
Aroma:
Aroma hops are those added in the last 5 minutes of the boil (aka finishing
hops) or dryhopping hops (adding the hops in the primary or secondary
fermenter). The less you boil, the more fragrance you'll get. Try a
bottle of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale -- it's dryhopped with Cascade hops.
*That's* what dryhopping is all about. Another example is Young's
Special London Ale -- it's dryhopped (I'm quite sure) with East Kent
Goldings hops. Since starting to dryhop, I've stopped using finishing
hops. The dryhopping is much more effective for creating a hop nose.
I suggest using whole hops for dryhopping, simply dumped into the
primary after the krauesen falls or in the secondary. Pelletized hops
can also be used, but the whole hops float, whereas the pellets float
for awhile and then sink. After which they get covered up by dead yeast
and therefore don't provide as much bouquet. I haven't worried about
sanitizing the dryhopping hops and have not had any problems -- the
alcohol, acidity and hungry yeast should be enough to fight off any
infections at dryhopping time. Don't add the hops till the krauesen
falls -- they will most certainly clog the blowoff tube if you use one
and the high rate of CO2 early in the ferment will scrub-off a lot of
their bouquet also. Wait a short while to get the most out of them.
Aging:
Both the bittering and the bouquet will diminish over time, so if you've
used too much, don't fret, wait 3 or 6 months. Then again, you can't
expect that bouquet in that perfect batch of Pale Ale to last 9 months
- -- drink it when it's at it's peak, and simply make more!
Varieties:
There are many types of hops and I don't have all my notes here, but
here's a few things off the top of my head:
Saaz -- the classic Pilsener hop -- used exclusively in Pilsener Urquell.
Cascade -- a U.S. hop; aroma hop; used in many of the American Pale Ales.
Kent Goldings -- a British hop; aroma hop; used in many English Pale Ales.
Centennial (aka CFJ90) -- a high alpha U.S. bittering hop.
Nugget -- a medium alpha hop used mostly for bittering.
Hallertauer -- a European hop (also available grown in the U.S.) which
is often used both a finishing and boiling hop in German styles.
Hersbrucker -- a cousin of Hallertauer -- used similarly.
Fuggles -- British (also available US grown); similar in use to Kent Goldings.
Well, that's plenty for now. For more info, I suggest the Zymurgy Special
Issue on hops as the most highly concentrated source of information on
hops. While you're at it -- buy all the Special Issues -- each one is
some of the best information on homebrewing there is. One more thing...
when I'm just starting to develop a style that's new to me, what I do is
pull out my old Zymurgy's and see what the prize winners used. You can
get a good idea of the types and amounts of hops to start with and then
adjust in subsequent batches. Papazian's The New Complete Joy of Home
Brewing is another good source for starting points.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 92 21:50:35 -0800
From: Lee J. Slezak <slezakl@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU>
Subject: Yeast Wash Method?
Hi all:
I have yet another question for all of you out there in net-land. I have been
corresponding back and forth with another user about my version of a
Framboise, really a raspberry ale, anyway we came across a question. I was
considering saving the trub out of my secondary fermenter and trying to re-
culture the yeast and re-pitch it. Anyway here is what has been transpiring
between us -
<Lee> if I save the trub at the bottom of the secondary, in a
<Lee>sanitized container, and refrigerate, would I be able to re-pitch the
<Lee>remaining yeast into my next raspberry ale? Just wondering-
<Bob>Hi Lee, that is sort of iffy. There are lots of weird stuff
<Bob>in the trub (dead yeast, mutated yeasts, proteins, etc).
<Bob>Sometimes this works fine ... but I've had a taste of a beer where
<Bob>the person did this and the beer was infected with either mutated
<Bob>yeasts or bacteria.
<Bob>The best approach is to do a yeast wash on the trub and then
<Bob>save the good stuff. Sorry but I don't know how to do that.
<Bob>I've only seen references to the "yeast wash" method.
So, what do you people think? I have only just recently become a member
of the AHA and I do not have the special Zymurgy Issue on yeast, so I have
no real references on the subject. You all have been so helpful in the past
what do you people have to say about this one? All and any advice, help,
and insight will be appreciated. I will post a summation of the results to this
query. (as usual) Thanks again and I am really looking forward to hearing
from all of you!
Happy Brewing-
Lee J. Slezak
<slezakl@atlantis.cs.orst.edu>
------------------------------
Date: Fri Feb 28 01:22:01 1992
From: synchro!chuck@uunet.UU.NET
Subject: Beer Judge Exam Study Guide
I have been working on a Beer Judge Exam Study Guide with the Beer Judge
Mailing List. I will be release the guide on JudgeNet tomorrow. If you are
not on JudgeNet, and would like a copy, send a request with your email address
to chuck@synchro.com. The guide is about 15 pages long. If there is a *LOT*
of interest, I might consider posting it, but its almost 20k. I could post it
in pieces.
The outline and introduction follow:
============================================================================
OUTLINE
Outline
Introduction
Ingredients
grains
hops
water
yeast & bacteria
miscellaneous
Procedures & Chemistry
malting
mashing
brewing
fermentation & conditioning
bottling / kegging
Characteristics
appearance
aroma
flavor
drinkability & overall impression
Styles
ales
lagers
hybrids
miscellaneous
Beer Judge Certification Program
ranks
experience points
sanctioned competitions
Miscellany
Example Questions
Bibliography & Suggested Reading
JudgeNet: the Beer Judge Mailing List
============================================================================
INTRODUCTION
This guide is intended to identify the specific areas of knowledge that are
required to pass the BJCP exam. It is not intended to teach you what you need
to know to pass the exam, but rather to help you organize your thoughts and
identify topics that deserve further study. The bibliography can help
you locate sources for further information, however there is no substitute for
experience.
============================================================================
If you want to join JudgeNet, send your email address, name and judging rank to
judge-request@synchro.com.
=====
Chuck Cox
World's Fastest Homebrewer
chuck@synchro.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri Feb 28 02:01:57 1992
From: synchro!chuck@uunet.UU.NET
Subject: Beer Drinkers Phrasebook
Well, now that the Beer Judge Exam Study Guide is done, I need to find
something else to keep me off the streets.
For about a year now, I have been discussing the idea of compiling a beer
drinkers phrasebook. Folks seem to like the idea.
This would be a collection of about 50 phrases and words in 6 or so languages
that are of particular interest to the traveling beer drinker. The idea would
be to create a companion to the standard tourist phrasebooks.
Here are some examples to get you thinking:
Languages:
American
English
German
French
Flemish
Dutch
Phrases:
I would like a _____ beer.
I would like a table for ___ please.
I would like my check please.
I am looking for a bar/restaurant that serves _____.
I am buzzed.
I am drunk.
Hello, I am a rich American.
May I buy you a beer?
Would you recommend a beer?
Did you hear the one about _____?
Where is a good beer bar/store?
Where is a good brewery?
Where is this address?
Where can I exchange my currency?
Where is the toilet?
My hovercraft is full of eels.
Is this the train/bus to _____?
Which is the train/bus to _____?
I'd like to buy an antacid/aspirin/condom.
I've fallen and I can't get up.
Misc:
Brewing terms
How to count
Tipping
Toilet fees
Jokes
You get the idea.
I am looking for more suggestions, but more importantly, I need some
volunteers to do the actual translations. There is no deadline, but I will
have an opportunity to try some Dutch, Flemish, and French phrases on March
20th.
The Phrasebook would be distributed via HBD, and like the Study Guide,
non-commercial reproduction of the Phrasebook would be allowed with proper
credit.
=====
Chuck Cox
Hopped/Up Racing Team
chuck@synchro.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1992 7:02:27 PST
From: schwerin@mailhost.hsas.washington.edu (Stan Schwerin)
Subject: <Concierge NOTICE>
Date 2/28/92
Subject <Concierge NOTICE>
From Stan Schwerin
To CHANGE THIS IF NECESSARY
>From QMCONCIERGE <Concierge NOTICE>
Your mail in reference to "Homebrew Digest #833 (Febru" has been received.
[ ] I am on Vacation.
[X] I have Moved.
[ ] I am Away.
I will read your mail when I return.
Hi, I'm skiing at Mt. Bachelor right now. When I return on Monday, Feb 2,
I will read your mail.
If this is an emergency, please contact Chris Kilbourn.
-Stan Schwerin
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 09:28 CST
From: korz@ihlpl.att.com
Subject: PU hops
I wrote:
>Saaz -- the classic Pilsener hop -- used exclusively in Pilsener Urquell.
What I meant was PU uses only Saaz. Other brewers use Saaz too. :^)
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 10:45:00 -0500
From: aew@spitfire.unh.edu
Subject: Wheat Beer, Mixing Beers
Fellow Homebrewers:
I have recently brewed a wheat beer that I was modeling after the
Austrailian wheat beer RedBack. My recipe was as follows:
7.75 lbs 66% Wheat 33% Barley malt extract syrup (bulk)
1.0 lb Crystal (Steeped + removed prior to boil)
1.0 lb Amber Unhopped Dried Malt
1.5 oz. Kent Goldings 5.6% Alpha Leaf hops (60 min boil - bittering)
.5 oz. Kent Goldings 5.6% Alpha Leaf hops (10 min boil - flavor)
.5 oz. Kent Goldings 5.6% Alpha Leaf hops ( 5 min boil - aroma)
.5 oz. Kent Goldings 5.6% Alpha Leaf hops ( aroma - see note)
.5 oz. Irish Moss (15 min boil)
.75 oz. Burton water salts - for water hardening - chill proofing
2 pkg. Doric Ale yeast (Started 2 hrs. prior to brewing)
Note: Last .5 oz. hops put in funnel/strainer and wort strained through
into carboy with cold water in it a la Papazian. Blow-off method was used.
My primary ferment started in 1 hour and was supprisingly vigorous for
36 hours. It finished in 48 hours. It has been fermenting slowly for 5
days and now has stopped blowing CO2 through the airlock at any
noticeable rate (less than 1 bubble every 3-4 mins) I took a
hydrommeter reading last night and it read
1.018. This seems high for a F.G. in comparison to my other beers of
the same approximate S.G. My question is, Do wheat beers commonly have
a higher F.G. than all Barley beers of simmilar S.G.s? Also, should I
consider my beer done? (The sample tasted great but was slightly
sweeter than I am used to - DUH of course there's more sugar in it.)
Should I go ahead and bottle or pitch in some Champagne yeast?
Second question: Two of my previous batches had flavors that made
combining them together in a glass seem a good idea (Like a Black and
tan or Light and Bitter) One was a lightly hopped brown ale and the
other was a highly hopped light bitter. When I combined the two the
combination tastes good, but within 5 minutes the entire glass fills
with a precipitate that looks like cold break. (Cloudy
white/translucent fuzzy clumps) Neither beer alone does this if poured
into a glass and left alone. This precipate will settle somewhat and
usually ends up settling to half the volume of the glass. It doesn't
change the taste of the mixture but is so visually disturbing that I
can't bear to drink it. I have tried combining several beers from both
batches (in small quantities to avoid ruining good beer:-) and always
get the same results. Has anyone ever had this happen to them? What is
it? Can I mix these beers and avoid this result. I really enjoy those
frist few sips before the beer 'explodes'!
Thanks in advance,
Allan Wright
===============================================================================
Allan Wright Jr. | Pole-Vaulters Get a Natural High!
University of New Hampshire +--------------------------------------------------
Research Computing Center | Hello, My name is Indego Montoya. You Killed my
Internet: AEW@UNH.EDU | father. Prepare to die. -The Princess Bride
===============================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1992 10:50:38 -0500 (EST)
From: R_GELINAS@UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas)
Subject: pride,ss,wyeast
Pride of Ringwood (Ringwold?) is an Australian hops, I believe. A
discerning nose can find it in most if not all Australian beer, such as
Fosters or Coopers. It's got an earthy aroma that I really like. I've
never seen any or heard of anyone using any in the States. If anyone
knows if it's available please let me know too.
Re. SS pot size: If you plan on doing all-grains batches, you'll need
at least a 7 gallon (28 qt.) pot. 10 gallon (40 qt.) is best.
Wyeast packages: I popped the inner seal on a Wyeast package, dated
January, yesterday. This morning, less than 24 hours at about 80degF, it
was puffed up to about 2/3 of capacity. It is on the verge of breaking
through at the upper right, just about where it says "Cut here" on the
back. It almost looks like it was designed to puff up more there, to help
in cutting or pouring or something, but that would be a dumb design. It's
in a sanitized sealed bag now, so if it pops, no problem, but is this package
slightly defective? I seem to remember the problem was usually with the
bottom seal, which held fine on this package (I did the book trick).
Russ
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 10:05:31 -0700
From: Loren Carter <lcarter@claven.idbsu.edu>
Subject: Gemstate
If any of you brewers out there are interested in entering contests, the
Ida-Quaffers of Boise Idaho will be holding the sixth annual Gemstate
Homebrewer's Competition in April. Dead line for entries is March 27, 1992. If
you would like more info send me your snail mail address and I will send you all
the particulars.
Loren Carter
Chemistry Department
Boise State University
Boise, Idaho
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 10:30:05 -0700
From: 105277@essdp1.lanl.gov (GEOFF REEVES)
Subject: Counter Pressure Filler
>
> From: abirenbo@rigel.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
> Subject: Kolsh, Kegs, and Krausening
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 92 08:21:25 MST
>
> d) How well to counter pressure bottle fillers work?
> Is $30 for one fair? It seems to me like the best
> thing would be to rack into keg, artificially carbonate,
> then just use counter pressure filler to bottle for
> portability/competition. Will my flavors be effected
> by this? BTW... what the heck is a counter-pressure
> filler? How does it work? What does it look like?
That's exactly what I've started doing. The way a counter-pressure
filler works is to pressurize everything in the system and then use
gravity to transfer.JThe filler is a tube that goes through a cork into
the bottle. The cork doesn't hold pressure perfectly but works pretty
well. The top of the filler tube is connected to two inlets - one for
gas and one for beer. (Actually mine has 3 but only 2 are used.)
You connect gas from your CO_2 tank to both the keg and the
bottle filler using a "T". That way the keg and the bottle are at
about the same pressure. A standard beverage line goes from the
'beer out' on the keg to 'beer in' on the counter pressure filler.
Put the keg up on something and put the bottler lower. Both the
'gas in' and 'beer in' on the filler have valves. By turning off the
gas and on the beer you can start the flow. Then turn off the flow
of beer. Put the whole thing in the bottle. Turn the gas back on
and the beer back on and gravity will fill the bottle at the same
pressure as the keg. Its pretty simple but there is plenty of room
to do the wrong thing and spray beer all over the place :-)
Geoff
Atomic City Ales
Los Alamos NM
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 12:34:35 -0500
From: chrisbpj@ldpfi.dnet.dupont.com
Subject: The HBD and how it operates
A couple of questions -
1. How often does the HBD come out and what dictates when it comes
out? The other day, I didn't receive one, but the numbering on my
copies is continuous, so I assume no HBD was published on that day...
2. How long (and by what mechanism) does it take to have a message
posted? Is there a cutoff time? I've sent in two questions and one
answer over the last week - the answer was never published and I'm
still waiting to see one of the questions... I guess I just
assumed that if I post, the message will appear in the next day's
HBD... Are "answer" messages not posted if a lot of people
respond? Could It be I'm having communication problems?
Thanks -
-Pete
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 12:11:31 EST
From: tix!roman@uunet.UU.NET (Daniel Roman)
Subject: Cider making
You may want to subscribe to the cider-digest feed. It's not very
active now, but really takes off in the fall. I've been told by long
time cider makers NOT to boil the cider as it affects the flavor and the
aroma. Most just pitch the yeast, some use sulfites to kill off
anything and then let the sulfites evaporate out. Not the way to
acheive 100% sterility but who am I to argue with success. If you want
your cider a little sweeter, use ale yeast, it is far less attenuative
than Champagne yeast.
I won't tell you about my cider making experiences since they have not
been 100% successful in my opinion and I only work with cider once or
twice a year in the fall in small batches.
_____________________________________________________________________
Dan Roman Internet: roman_d@timplex.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 12:15:59 EST
From: tix!roman@uunet.UU.NET (Daniel Roman)
Subject: Mead problems
Well, besides the acid you also need a healthy dose of yeast nutrient.
You generally need more than what the label on the yeast nutrient
specifies for mead since the label usually gives the amount for wine.
You'd think that honey would be high in nutrients that yeast needs but
apparently this is not the case. One thing to watch out for is that too
much yeast nutrient can adversely affect the taste or may require that
you let it sit even longer than a year to get rid of the taste. Last
time I made mead I used twice the recommended amount and it could have
probably used even a little more than that.
_____________________________________________________________________
Dan Roman Internet: roman_d@timplex.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 11:20:35 PST
From: "John Cotterill" <johnc@hprpcd.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Long Fermentation
Full-Name: "John Cotterill"
I brewed an all grain IPA about a month ago. The original gravity was around
1.052. I am using 1056 yeast at a temperature of 66F. The fermentation
started normally about a day after pitching (I used a starter). I fermented
in a SS soda keg with a blow off hose. After 8 days I checked the gravity.
It was around 1.032, much higher than I would have expected. I let it
go another 7 days. The gravity was 1.030, still pretty high. I pulled the
blow off tube out, and just sealed the keg with the normal fittings. Every
day I give the relief valve a pull and get about a 3 second blast of CO2.
The gravity, however does not seem to be changing. The beer tastes OK.
Why is it not fermenting out? I am very careful about sanitation, and,
unless the yeast was trashed from the factory, I doubt I introduced any kind
of a wild yeast. But I think even if I did have a wild yeast, the gravity
would be dropping. The only anomaly that occured was during mashing.
Instead of 153F in the mash tun, I was low at about 148F. Does anyone have
a clue what the trouble is?
JC
johnc@hprpcd.rose.hp.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1992 11:30 PDT
From: Bob Jones <BJONES@NOVA.llnl.gov>
Subject: Heaters from Micah Millsapw
There has been some discussion lately about immersion heaters
and their abilities. It is easy to calculate the wattage required to
heat a given volume of water a certain amount. Or the heating
potential of a given wattage heating element. I resently built a hot
liquor tank that will turn itself on heat up to strike temp a hold
that temperature, during the mash it will heat up the sparge water to
the desired temp. It uses a 1500 watt element and is controlled by a
modified Hunter Air Stat and a temperature sensitive switch. I wake up
with ready to mash in water, plus it is energy efficient because the
thing starts at a predeterimed time that is just long enough to heat
up to the desired temperature.
1) know the total weight of the water to be heated
1 gallon water = 8.35lb.
2) determine your total temperature change (delta T )degrees F
3) multiply the weight by the delta T . This is needed Btu's
per hour do the job.
4) divide the Btu's by 3.412 to find the watts per hour
5) divide by number of hours desired and select the
appropriate heating element.
Or reshuffle this with what number you have to find those you don't.
Micah Millspaw 2/27/92
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1992 11:31 PDT
From: Bob Jones <BJONES@NOVA.llnl.gov>
Subject: British Beer Flavors from Micah Millspaw
The duplication of British beer styles. While sugar may be a
common adjuct to British brewers it is not usualy a main flavour
component. The sugary tastes and esters often associated with British
styles can usualy be attributed to their crystal malts. British barley
is different from the US\Canada barley and the malting process can
make the grains flavour contribution even more different. So when
tring to copy British beers take the time try find and use British
crystal and pale malts. They may cost a little more,but this is a
hobby so what the hell.
Micah Millspaw 2/26/92
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 09:42:27 -0500
From: hartman@varian.varian.com (John Hartman)
Subject: Kettle Hop Schedules
I know that many brewers use a hop schedule for their kettle hops. For
example, they add 40% an hour before the end of boil, 40% 30 min. before
the end of the boil, and 20% at the end of the boil. I always add all
my kettle hops one hour before the end of the boil. Am I missing something?
What's the point of using such a schedule? I've never used the technique
and I'm skeptical about its effectiveness vs. simply adding 100% all at
once. Could those who use hop schedules please enlighten me?.
Thanks,
John
------------------------------
Date: 28 Feb 1992 18:22 EST
From: afd@hera.cc.bellcore.com (adietz)
Subject: Digital Hydrometer?
Tell me, how does one go about constructing such a thing?
-A Dietz
Bellcore, Morristown
afd@hera.cc.bellcore.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 16:48:26 MST
From: Eric Mintz <ericm@bach.ftcollinsco.NCR.COM>
Subject: OG 1.088 Stout status report
I got 2 votes out of 2 not to dilute the 1.088 OG stout (thanks for your
opinions!). Well, I didn't. I racked to the secondary yesterday and,
man o man, It tasted GREAT!! It was late at night when I racked and I
was sleepy and careless, I hope I didn't infect it.
The only lingering problem is that, after the full malt tast -- WHAM!
That tanin-like hop taste hits ya'. I used 2oz of .5 alpha Cascade for
about 2.5 gal. Will the "wham" age out or will it remain a "feature" of
this beer?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 92 14:49 CST
From: akcs.chrisc@vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli)
Subject: Reaffirming Propane
Dearest Jack:
It is my belief that the more uses you devise for a tool or gadget,
the better you spent your money.
Take turkey basters. I use mine for starting siphons, drawing
gravity samples, blowing wood shavings out of dowel holes and basting an
occasional turkey.
Now lets look at portable propanes burners and LP propane tanks.
Besides brewing, I use my setup for post-game tailgating, chili cookoffs,
soil sterilization for indoor potting, teaching a homebrewing course at
the local college and roasting red bell peppers. I have many uses for a
portable, non-electric heat source in the home, the backyard and at
remote sites.
Now granted, your setup does sound very inexpensive. If I were the
tinkerer type, I would probably build one like yours. But I'm not so I
won't. Do you have other uses for your "little fire-brick house"? Do
you lug your bricks out back and run a gas hose? How much time does this
take? Do you lug your bricks to the park and follow with a gas line? Is
there going to be another video on this?
I did not imply that my way was the only way. I posted my
experience so that if someone else does decide to go the portable propane
way, they may do so with their eyes alittle more open.
>> Oops. You see the light but I do not understand why you didn't start
there in the first place.
Very simple, Jack. I did see the light. Maybe I need to expand.
Eventually, when I OWN the house I'm living in, I will make modifications
to the inhouse line. Landlords can sometimes be kinda funny about their
property if you tell them your going to start making permanent
modifications.
I hope this sheds alittle light. If you have any problems
understanding any of this, I would be more than glad to educate you at
next weeks meeting at the Goose.
Hind sight is always 20/20,
Chris Campanelli
------------------------------
Date: 27 Feb 92 12:34:37 U
From: "Thomas Tomazin" <thomas_tomazin@ausgtr.sps.mot.com>
Subject: cats_meow
GatorMail-Q cats_meow
Could someone please tell me how to obtain a text version
of the cats meow-
here are the requests I have tried:
send index for recipe-book (worked-replied with index)
send cats_meow.txt from recipe-book (didn't-replied with no none library)
what am I doing wrong? The "real person" supposedly on the other end doesn't
answer my mail.
Thanks in advance,
Tom
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Feb 92 13:07:42 GMT
From: tony@tag.co.uk (Tony Quince)
Subject: Invert Sugar
As promised in HBD #832, how to make your own invert sugar....
Boil 8lb of ordinary (cane/beet, white) sugar and a teaspoon of
citric acid in 2 to 3 pints of water for half an hour. When cool,
make up to a gallon with (boiled) water. And lo, you have 8 pounds
of invert sugar in 8 pints of liquid.
The measurements here are English Imperial, which I believe is
different to US. The actual amounts don't matter too much ...
what you're after is an easy to use concentration (e.g. 1 lb per pint).
Have fun y'all.
Tony Quince,
Technology Applications Group,
England.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Feb 1992 16:51:37 GMT
From: mstrange@alfred.ccs.carleton.ca (N E N Strangelove)
Subject: Types of Bottles
Is there any problems associated with using the plastic 1 and 2 litre
plastic pop bottles for bottling beer? Are these bottles made of a
high enough grade of plastic so as to not leak air through the walls?
Also, I would like to hear of other bottling options - such as the
use of champaign bottles.
Michael Strangelove
ttles
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Feb 92 12:38:35 EST
From: bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu (Scott Bickham)
Subject: Skunked beer in cans
I am familiar with the phenomenon of light-struck beer in bottles,
where UV radiation breaks an isohumulone bond, creating a ketyl-acyl radical
pair. Loss of CO by the acyl radical forms the 3-methyl-2-butyl radical,
which then combines with a thiol radical from sulphur- containing proteins
to produce 3-methyl-2-butene-1-thiol.
In college, we learned the hard way that when a previously cold can
or bottle of beer is warmed up (say, in the trunk of a car), and then cooled
down again, the beer develops an off-flavor which is similar to, if not
identical to light-struck beer. Does anyone know if the temperature changes
in the absence if light can lead to the same chemical changes that produce
light-struck beer? Or is this phenomenon perhaps related to "freezer-burn"
that happens to other foods?
Just curious,
Scott
=========================================================================
bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
=========================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Feb 92 09:42:41 PST
From: Bob Devine 29-Feb-1992 1041 <devine@cookie.enet.dec.com>
Subject: side-by-side yeast comparison
In response to some recent questions about the affect different yeasts
can have, I dug out some notes I made on a side-by-side comparison of
11 beers. All the beers were made from the same original wort but were
split up into 11 different carboys and given different yeasts.
I and others did a blind taste testing (the beers were presented
randomly and without any description beforehand. The yeasts were
a variety of ale and lager yeasts with a few "surprise" yeasts promised.
All beers were tasted before the actual list of beers or the answers
were given. The base beer was light bodied (probably 1.040 OG).
Beer Description
- ---- ----------------------------------------------------------------
1 clean aroma, slight fruitiness, high head
guess = ale
answer = Wyeast 1098, British Ale yeast from Whitbread
2 clove phenolic, minimal carbonation, no head, slight astringent
guess = german wheat??
answer = Wyeast Pasteur Champagne 3021!
3 ale estery, low head, smooth
guess = whitbread
answer = Wyeast American Ale 1056
4 yeasty aroma, sour, sulfury, sweet non-attentuative, probably infected
guess = RedStar
answer = RedStar lager!
5 huge dense head, sweet, sherry aroma, no esters
guess = unknown ale
answer = RedStar Ale
6 ale estery, sweet, spicy, lots of off-aroma, sulfury, weird!
guess = high temp lager?
answer = reused Wyeast American Ale from trub
7 quite sweet malty, clean, slight fruitiness, nice head
guess = german ale
answer = Wyeast Bavarian Weizen 3056 (50/50 blend of S. cerevisiae
and delbrueckii)
8 dense head, clean aroma, sour aftertaste, slight yeasty smell
guess = unknown ale
answer = dry Edme ale yeast
9 sweet, clean, a little off aroma that I couldn't identify
guess = ale?
answer = Wyeast Bohemian Lager 2124
10 clove phenolic, sour, astringent first taste followed by sweet
guess = german wheat?
answer = Wyeast Munich Lager 2308 (Wyeast literature mentions that
this yeast is sometimes unstable)
11 semi-sweet, estery/fruit nose, medium head
guess = ale?
answer = Wyeast Danish Lager 2042
Bob Devine
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Feb 92 21:11:40 EST
From: Todd breslow <V5149U%TEMPLEVM@VM.TEMPLE.EDU>
Subject: Anchor Steam Recipie?
Someone recently posted a recipie for Anchor Steam-like brew
and I accidently erased it and am having no luck searching the
archives. Could someone please send me a copy?!?! Thanks in
advance very much. Cheers.
------------------------------
Date: 01 Mar 92 02:53:19 EST
From: "Charlie Papazian\\Boulder" <72210.2754@compuserve.com>
Subject: Australia visit
Sb: In Australia
Just thought I'd drop Internet beer forum a message I just posted to
Compuserve. I'm currently traveling in Australia, visiting homebrewers,
brewers and attending a brewers convention. here are a few notes.
I've been meeting scads of homebrewers while having visited Sydney and now
Melbourne. The quality of the homebrew I've had has been exceptionally good
for the most part. The all-grain brewers, while in the same kind of
minority as the U.S. and Canada are quite knowledgeable and show no less
ingenuity in building their contraptions, mashing, sparging, boiling, etc.
vessels. Very clever indeed. The quality of the ingredients has really got
to be very good. I don't know what it used to be like but of the relatively
few shops that are around, they stock some quality stuff.
Their hops are almost all Australian or New Zealand grown. From what
I've gathered the NZ hops have the reputation of being exceptional. Most
hops are in pellet form and well packaged.
They have access to Wyeast liquid yeasts now for over a year. A few
are using it with great results. At $8 - $10 a pack. They also have the
advantage of being able to culture yeast from Coopers Sparkling Ale. A
great beer and great yeast for a particular styleof beer.
The shop owners all generally subscribe to zymurgy and do a great job of
spreadingthe word about knocking off the sugar in kit beers. There is
adequate "kit supplements" packaged in about 1 kilo containers : malt syrup
extracts, light, amber, dark, crystal type to use in kits instead of sugar.
Also dried extract. Coopers is pretty big here. Most other kits are from
the UK. The Aussies all wonder why there aren't many American made kits.
I guess in summary the homebrewers are making some great beers. I
had an all grain barely wine last night OG 1.100 FG: 1.012. 12%
Exceptionally good. And a good doppelbock as well.
The weather is pleasaant and good for BBQ's and beer drinking. I'll
be off to the Aussie/New Zealand brewers convention that begins this
evening. tomorrow off to visit some of Melbournes brewpubs and homebrew
shops.It's 5:15 p.m. Sunday here while I suppose 12:15 a.m. thereMST.solong
p.s. I enjoyed some of the best dark bock beer I've ever had anywhere in
the world. Place: Scharer's Brewery and Inn in Picton, just 1 1/2 hour
southwest of Sydney. Wonderful German style beer in a pubrewery restuarant
hotel inn. Well worth visiting if you're ever in the Sydney area.
S9
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 1992 23:10:56 -0500
From: trwagner@unixpop.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: What to make first
Hello. Well, after my "convenience" mistake with Axbridge, I want
to make a GOOD batch of beer. The Axbridge kit was a total failure after
following the directions almot religously. It just didn't work.
I will be making a batch of beer (probably 4 to 5 gallons) this
May. I have a few questions....
I want to use a "kit." (I believe that is what it is called). The
kit has the extracts, sugars, and yeast. What type of "kit" is best for a
good *first* home brew? I want something tried and true! My taste is for
a George Killians (owned by Coors) Red. I also adore Saporo. I just want
a smooth, non-harsh beer. I assume there is an easy "Lager" kit to use.
However, I do not know what to get. Could someone give me some feed-back?
Any feed-back as far was what to use in the line of extracts is greatly
appreciated. I have looked and looked and there are a multitude of
extracts out there.
My tastes are large and flexible. Here are my favorite American
Commercial Beers:
Coors
Budweiser
Killians
Olympia
Little Kings ;-)
Import:
Saporo
Tsing Tao
Fosters
Molson
If you know of a good tried and true extract "kit" please, please
let me know. Thanks...
Ted
trwagner@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 92 22:18:23 -0600
From: rsumner@ha15.eng.ua.edu (Richard J. Sumner)
Subject: unsuscribe
please unsuscribe
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 92 22:27 MTS
From: Chuck Coronella <CORONELLRJDS@CHE.UTAH.EDU>
Subject: History of breweries
Like most of you, I enthusiastically read anything about beer that I can
get my hands on. These days, I've developed a hankering for some history.
Can anyone recommend a good resource regarding the history of brewing
and/or beer, particularly in the US? All the homebrewing books have a
brief section on this- I'd like some detail.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
On another note-
A friend of mine is interested in growing hops here in Utah. Where would
be the best place to get hold of some small plants (rhizomes? rootlets?)?
I've read here about a place called FresHops (or something like that)
located somewhere in the Pacific Northwest. Is that the best place?
Closest to Utah?
Thanks for the help,
Chuck Coronella
coronellrjds@che.utah.edu
P.S. I'm still thinking about doing a lemon beer; no conclusions yet...
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 92 22:27 MTS
From: Chuck Coronella <CORONELLRJDS@CHE.UTAH.EDU>
Subject: History of breweries
Like most of you, I enthusiastically read anything about beer that I can
get my hands on. These days, I've developed a hankering for some history.
Can anyone recommend a good resource regarding the history of brewing
and/or beer, particularly in the US? All the homebrewing books have a
brief section on this- I'd like some detail.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
On another note-
A friend of mine is interested in growing hops here in Utah. Where would
be the best place to get hold of some small plants (rhizomes? rootlets?)?
I've read here about a place called FresHops (or something like that)
located somewhere in the Pacific Northwest. Is that the best place?
Closest to Utah?
Thanks for the help,
Chuck Coronella
coronellrjds@che.utah.edu
P.S. I'm still thinking about doing a lemon beer; no conclusions yet...
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #834, 03/02/92
*************************************
-------
