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HOMEBREW Digest #0788
This file received at Mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU 91/12/24 03:16:18
HOMEBREW Digest #788 Tue 24 December 1991
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
wort chillers (John A. Palkovic)
Berghof and Huber ("Lance "Cogsworth" Smith")
bunratty meade (dave ballard)
bunratty meade (dave ballard)
Gelatin (Andy Leith)
finings (korz)
Jockey Boxes (re: Dan Graham) (Greg Roody - DTN 237-7122 - MaBell 508-841-7122)
SS+magnets, Barrelmasher suggestions (korz)
Cool Books (chuck)
Flying--but big--beer glasses (Jeff Frane)
Pasta Vue (Jack Schmidling)
Beer as Carry-On Baggage (Dr. Tanner Andrews)
Tucson Brewpubs/Electric Dave (GC Woods)
First mash (Carl West)
A Recipe for Homebrew (circa 1930) (Bruce T. Hill)
Burst WYeast Packet, revisited (Stephen Russell)
Send submissions to homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues!]
Archives are available from netlib@mthvax.cs.miami.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 91 22:17:19 -0500
From: john@warped.phc.org (John A. Palkovic)
Subject: wort chillers
In Homebrew digest # 784, Kenney Baughman writes:
>The other thing to remember is to keep the water housing of the
>chiller as small as possible. Heat exchangers are more efficient the
>more the coolant turns over.
In more scientific terms, you get better heat exchange when the coolant
flow is turbulent. This means the "reynolds number" is much larger
than, say, 10000. It would be possible to estimate the reynolds number
for a wort chiller of given dimension if we knew the pressure drop
between inlet and outlet. Since plumbing water pressure tends to be a
function of position ;-), it is hard to say what the correct dimensions
should be. Here in Texas (near Dallas), my water pressure is a hell of
a lot more than it was in Warrenville, IL, near Chicago.
Happy brewyear,
-John
- ---
john@warped.phc.org
I joined the League for Programming Freedom
-- Send mail to league@prep.ai.mit.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 91 3:44:56 CST
From: "Lance "Cogsworth" Smith" <lsmith@cs.umn.edu>
Subject: Berghof and Huber
Hmmmm, my info may be dated but as I understand it, the Berghof owns
the old Huber brewery. They don't contract it, they do it themselves.
(Does this qualify as homebrewing?)
Quick history, Huber used to make three basic labels: Huber, Rhinelander,
and Augsburger. Of these, Augsburger was really good. So Huber goes belly
up and sells the Augsburger name off to Stroh's. Stroh's turns Auggies into
an average beer. Berghof buys Huber to make their house label. (They may
have been contracting with Huber before, I'd have to check.) So now Berghof
beer is available throughout the midwest (in both dark and light.) Michael
Jackson is actually quite enthusiastic about the light. Huber and Rhinelander
are also being brewed again.
Anyone in Chicago know the story for sure?
------------------------------
Date: 22 Dec 1991 19:21 EST
From: dab@pyuxe.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard)
Subject: bunratty meade
Hey now- Well, I managed to get my hands on a bottle of Bunratty Meade
last weekend. The bottle is beautiful white stone with a cork. The
back label has some pretty interesting information, including that
in Ireland it is customary for a new bride and groom to drink meade
for a fortnight/lunar cycle after their wedding, thus deriving the
term honeymoon. You learn something every day...
The label also says that the stuff can be consumed cold before, during,
or after dinner or warmed as a toddy type of thing. I had it cold.
Really interesting flavors. It's supposedly made with white wine which
lends a little flavor right off. The remaining taste is very alcoholic
(14.7% volume) and mostly honey. My girlfriend's comment was that it
tasted like "honey with rubbing alcohol dumped in it." It took me
quite a while to finish a wine glass full and provided quite a warm
fuzzy feeling. I definately wouldn't want to drink it in any great
quantity.
I would suggest trying some if you can find it. It's only about 15 bucks,
and if all else fails the bottle makes a nice vase or lamp or something.
I guess you could probably bottle your own meade in it if you have
a cork-thingamabob. I wouldn't fly to Ireland for it or anything,
but it's not bad overall...
iko-
dab
========================================================================
dave ballard "Maybe you had too much too fast"
dab@pyuxe.cc.bellcore.com
------------------------------
Date: 23 Dec 1991 9:10 EST
From: dab@pyuxe.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard)
Subject: bunratty meade
Hey now- Well, I managed to get my hands on a bottle of Bunratty Meade
last weekend. The bottle is beautiful white stone with a cork. The
back label has some pretty interesting information, including that
in Ireland it is customary for a new bride and groom to drink meade
for a fortnight/lunar cycle after their wedding, thus deriving the
term honeymoon. You learn something every day...
The label also says that the stuff can be consumed cold before, during,
or after dinner or warmed as a toddy type of thing. I had it cold.
Really interesting flavors. It's supposedly made with white wine which
lends a little flavor right off. The remaining taste is very alcoholic
(14.7% volume) and mostly honey. My girlfriend's comment was that it
tasted like "honey with rubbing alcohol dumped in it." It took me
quite a while to finish a wine glass full and provided quite a warm
fuzzy feeling. I definately wouldn't want to drink it in any great
quantity.
I would suggest trying some if you can find it. It's only about 15 bucks,
and if all else fails the bottle makes a nice vase or lamp or something.
I guess you could probably bottle your own meade in it if you have
a cork-thingamabob. I wouldn't fly to Ireland for it or anything,
but it's not bad overall...
iko-
dab
========================================================================
dave ballard "Maybe you had too much too fast"
dab@pyuxe.cc.bellcore.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 91 08:50:07 CST
From: andy@wups.wustl.edu (Andy Leith)
Subject: Gelatin
Hi,
Jack S. asks whether Noonan is correct that gelatin will only
work below 55 degs. I have used gelatin finings at temperatures
up to at least 70 degs and it seems to work OK. For what its worth
though I've found that isinglass works better for me, and since I mostly
make English style bitters and ales I feel that its a more "authentic"
way to go. I've never noticed any taste/flavour effects when using
either gelatin or isinglass. I once made a wheat beer that wouldn't
clear with either isinglass or gelatin, so I used a combination of
polyclar and a bentonite slurry. This cleared the beer of practically
everything, haze, flavour, mouth feel, head, (everything). In some cases
I guess its best to just leave the beer cloudy.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 91 10:45 CST
From: korz@ihlpl.att.com
Subject: finings
Jack asks:
>I would also be interested in any comments on taste/flavor or other effects
>of fining with gelatin. Yeh, I know, it ain't Kosher. Or is it if you leave
>it behind by racking?
I've never used geletin. I have, however, used Irish Moss, which is a
particular type of seaweed. I've noticed no detectable flavor difference,
but have noticed a reduction in head retention along with the primary
result of finings, namely crystal-clear beer. The loss of head retention
would support those who suggest that protein is crucial for head retention,
since the Irish Moss (added at the end of the boil) helps precipitate out
more proteins.
I don't think that the use of any kind of finings is allowed by
Reinheitsgebot, but I've stopped worrying about that a long time ago.
In my humble opinion, I like Ales much more than Lagers and I feel that
whatever it takes to make my beer look and taste the way I like it, as
long as it's natural (i.e. not artificial flavor, etc.) meets my purity
law.
Somewhere, I've got some really interesting info on finings. I've already
checked my files, it's not here at work. What I faintly recall is that
finings work in one of two ways, and most of them work electrostatically.
For those who are unfamiliar with finings, they are clarifying agents
which include: geletin, Irish Moss, Polyclar and Isinglas (sp?). I may
have missed a few. Rather than rely on my memory, I'll try to look for
my notes on finings at home and then post them after (or during) the
holidays.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 91 08:47:38 PST
From: Greg Roody - DTN 237-7122 - MaBell 508-841-7122 <roody@necsc.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Jockey Boxes (re: Dan Graham)
Dan, you mentioned that you would like to keg your brews (to avoid the hassles
involved with bottling without being able to see), but don't have a spare
fridge. I assume you want the fridge to chill the beer and not lager it.
If that's the case, you can buy or build a "jockey box". This is a large
cooler with stainless steel or copper cooling coils/plates in it which you
fill with ice. You then hook the output of your keg to the input on the
jockey box, and the beer gets cooled as it passes through the coils; there
are standard bar taps on the output of the box. This way you only cool the
beer by the glass/pitcher. Note this isn't necessarily practical if all
you want is one glass, but at a party it can save you a lot of hassle
trying to keep kegs cool. I've seen these with one to three tap lines
built into the same box. One of the last issues of Zymurgy had an article
on how to build one, or you can buy them from a supplier such as Rapids.
In any case, it's cheaper than the pump.
By the way, how do you prevent boil overs?
Enjoy.
/greg
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 91 11:29 CST
From: korz@ihlpl.att.com
Subject: SS+magnets, Barrelmasher suggestions
Arthur writes:
>When I was shopping for a pot, I found that the stores often had no markings
>on the pots, indicating that they were steel or aluminum. Had I planned
>ahead, I would've brought a magnet with me.
Most varieties of Stainless Steel are not ferromagnetic. I simply bought
mine from Rapids for ~$90 (lid is extra), which is not a bargain, but, I
know what I'm getting (SS), it's heavy gauge, and it's handles are sturdily
attached. Bargains do not always meet all of these three criteria.
Ronan--
The rolling keg idea for agitation is novel, but since you didn't mention
otherwise, I will assume you will be measuring the temp of the bath and
not the mash. You should really measure the mash temp, which (as far as
I can think of offhand) means either mounting a temp probe into the end of
the keg (with a swivel connector so your sensor cable doesn't get all twisted
up) or abandoning the rolling-keg idea. Maybe you should go with a paddle
agitator as is commonly used, although I realize this is what you're trying
to avoid. Good luck, and please report on your progress.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Mon Dec 23 12:15:24 1991
From: synchro!chuck@uunet.UU.NET
Subject: Cool Books
During my latest trip to London, I bought a pile of books at the CAMRA booth at
the Old Ale Festival. I wanted to recommend some of them to my fellow
homebrewers. All of these are available at a discount to CAMRA members.
Good Beer Guide 1992 A classic, and a must for every beer traveller.
Good Pub Food Visiting some of these pubs has completely
changed my opinion of English food.
Beer, Bed & Breakfast You can plan an entire vacation just visiting
some of these inns.
The Real Ale Drinker's Almanac Lists the ingredients for nearly all of the
real ales produced in Britain & Ireleand.
The Best Pubs in London There is a book for every major ale city and
region in Britiain.
The London Drinker The monthly newsletter of the London branches,
lists festivals & events in the London area.
I also want to put in a plug for CAMRA itself. In the past I have taken issue
with their overzealous and restrictive definition of what is "real" ale. What
I learned on this trip is that CAMRA is as much a social as an advocacy
organization. Nearly every interesting beer lover and homebrewer that I met
was a member. I was surprised how quickly these guys were willing to accept
me as a fellow beer lover & expert.
After the obligatory Budweiser jokes, we would get into discussions of mashing
techniques, the influence of British ale on American microbrews, or unusual
hop varieties (including 'special' hops). No CAMRA member ever gave me any
attitude, and all were genuinely interested in the American brewing
renaissance. If you ever get a chance to visit Britain, join CAMRA and stock
up on some good books, then go looking for a beer festival or other CAMRA
event.
I wish there were similar books and organizations on the continent.
- -----
Chuck Cox
SynchroSystems
chuck@synchro.com
------------------------------
Date: 23 Dec 91 14:14:10 EST
From: Jeff Frane <70670.2067@compuserve.com>
Subject: Flying--but big--beer glasses
British pub owners are having a hard time of it, apparently. The government has
issued orders that beer glasses be large enough to hold a full pint even when a
decent head is added. According to a wire-service article in the local paper, a
pint of bitter can run as high as $3.50 in London. They ought to try drinking at
some of our local pubs that charge that much and only give you 16 ounces
(British pints are 20!).
Then, too, the Daily Telegraph had a filler, titled "Beer glass plea": "Serving
beer in shatter-proof glasses, which disintegrate into harmless cubes when
broken, would prevent many of the disfiguring injuries suffered in pub brawls,
claims an article published today in the British Medical Journal."
Sounds like a fun place to drink.
To Brian Bliss: Malted barley is *LOADED* with enzymes. There's no reason in the
world why you need to add amylase.
Nick: Do what you can. I've tasted some remarkably fine lagers that were made
without refrigerators. 40F isn't bad at all, especially if you can keep the main
ferment down around 50.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 91 09:27 CST
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Pasta Vue
To: Homebrew Digest
Fm: Jack Schmidling
From: ek@chem.UCSD.EDU (Ed Kesicki)
Subject: pasta machines/
>Let me tell you a story.... my friend and I thought it would
be fun to put little army men through the rollers. Well, it *was* fun--
really flattened those guys. However, it also broke the machine;
somehow the rollers got pulled apart permanently.
I was so impressed by the mod to the pasta machine that I got real depressed
for not thinking of it first. Then I remembered why I didn't try to use
mine.
Our previous video was on re-cycling paper into all sorts of neat things
including paper and post cards. Well, guess what we tried to use for
smoothing out the post cards? And guess what we can't use for making pasta
anymore?
The crank on the Atlas (the most popular model around here) is held into the
roller by nothing more than friction (wishful thinking) and will permanently
slip once this joint is over stressed. I have had mine apart 3 times and
thought I fixed it each time but it never lasted. The only cure I see is to
have it tack welded together and I will problably never get around to doing
it.
Now the question is, can I use my malt mill for a pasta machine?
js
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 91 7:18:03 EST
From: Dr. Tanner Andrews <tanner@ki4pv.compu.com>
Subject: Beer as Carry-On Baggage
I've never had any problem carrying beer on the train. I
generally carry a case or two when going north to visit folks. I
have even exchanged full for empty in mid-trip, with a sister who
lives up in Raleigh, hitting the grouund for a very brief visit.
If your beer is hyper-active, please line your cases with a
plastic trash bag to contain the excitement.
More than two cases will not fit conveniently on the shelf in a
roomette.
At least one baggage man is also a home-brewer.
Cases of empties can be packed with clothes for and tightly tied
closed. They can then be shipped as baggage; the key phrase is
``passenger states no prohibited articles''. The contents are
dirty clothes, if they ask for details. Limit three pieces, so a
suitcase means that you can only ship two cases of empties.
- --
...!{bikini.cis.ufl.edu allegra uunet!cdin-1}!ki4pv!tanner
------------------------------
Date: 23 Dec 91 16:11:10 EST (Mon)
From: GC Woods <gcw@garage.att.com>
Subject: Tucson Brewpubs/Electric Dave
While on a business trip to Tucson, AZ recently I was drinking "Electric
Dave's Ale" at the hotel and the bartender said "to enjoy it now because
Dave just got busted for selling pot". So now we know what the
"Electric" part of the brew really was!!
The two brewpubs in Tucson are Gentle Ben Brewing and San Francisco Bar
and Grill Brewpub. Gentle Ben's is located across from the university -
the beer was drinkable, but nothing special. The two things I did enjoy
was the price ($2.25/pint) and they had Anchor X-mas on tap (nutmeg and
clover are the strongest flavors I noticed). The place was almost empty
(tues/weds), but have large crowds/band on weekends. Atmosphere is basic
college pub.
The San Francisco Brewpub brewing operation was shutdown while I was
there and no one would say why? They did have plenty of other micro and
imports (like Guiness) to make up for the loss. There was an extensive
menu with normal bar food and also the weird combinations that many
brewpubs like to look fancy with. The atmosphere is fancy sports bar
with many TV's scattered around. One great thing they do have is 25 cent
oysters during happy hour on weekdays, but the cowboys at the bar where
a little shocked when I ordered 40 after the first 4 I ate were
excellent.
Geoff Woods
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 91 13:01:27 EST
From: eisen%kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM@hplb.hpl.hp.com (Carl West)
Subject: First mash
Well I finally got around to it, and tried a small (3gal) infusion mash.
I tried to use the picnic cooler to do the mash, but the strike water
only got me up to about 148F so I ended up doing it in the kettle in
the oven, a la Miller, at ~155.
pH5.2, 5# pale malt. .5# chocolate malt (~62L, pre fudge-factor)
Dumped the mess back into the cooler to sparge, stopped taking the runnings
when they started tasting `husky'. (got about 22 points/#/gal)
90 min boil, skimming for the first 30 min, no boilover.
Hops in a bag for 60 min. More hops in another bag for 15 min.
Immersion chiller, 212F->75F in 8 min, not much obvious cold break.
Oops, starter gone bad, have a homebrew, pour some wort onto the dregs,
airlock, and stick in the corner of the heated waterbed.
Pour the wort into 5gal carboy, bung.
Next morning:
Pour the `starter' into the 3gal, rack wort off 1" trub, top up with boiled and
cooled water. Shake. Airlock. Cross fingers. Go to work.
Tool notes:
Instead of using a slotted Cu pipe, I took a piece of soft plastic tubing and
punched little holes up and down its length with a leather punch. It certainly
allowed a good flow for sparging (is there such a thing as too much flow?).
It needs a little weight to make sure it stays down near the bottom.
I used the legs from a pair of the SO's pantyhose as hops bags, they seemed to
work well, but I had to trim the edges on the plastic stirring spoon to avoid
getting runs :^) Not having to deal with the hops really seems to have sped
up the chilling operation.
The (inevitable) questions:
What sort of effect did sitting around at 146F-148F for 20 min have?
Should I have pre-heated the cooler? How?
What's a good size cooler for up to 10# of malt?
(this was the SO's 54 quart cooler, too big.)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 91 15:41:22 PST
From: dannet!bruce@uunet.UU.NET (Bruce T. Hill)
Subject: A Recipe for Homebrew (circa 1930)
Greetings!
My sister-in-law's mother gave this following recipe to me. It dates
back to the 1930's. They grew up in a predominantly Polish part of
Chicago where it was traditional to make home-made beer for festive occasions
(like Christmas!). The recipe is pretty rough by our modern homebrewing
standards, but it shows that the homebrewing spirit was alive and well
several decades ago.
Reprinted verbatim from a yellowed sheet of paper:
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
INGREDIENTS FOR 6 GALLONS EQUIPMENT
1 - 3 Lb. can Hop Flavored Malt Syrup 1 - 6, 8, 10 or 12 gallon crock
3 Lbs. Corn Sugar 1 Tester and 1 Filter Float
1 - Package Settler 6 ft. Siphon Hose
1 - Cake Fleischmann's Yeast 1 Bottle Filler, 1 Capper, 1 Box
of Bottle Caps
METHOD
------
1. Bring one gallon water to boiling point using a pan large enough to hold
water, malt syrup and corn sugar. Add malt syrup and stir until mixed. Stir
in corn sugar slowly until dissolved. Settler should be mixed in with sugar
at this time for best results.
2. Place crock on box or chair (not on floor), pour in three gallons of luke
warm water, then add hot ingredients. Now add sufficient luke warm water to
make 5 and 1/2 gallons of liquid in the 6 gallon crock.
3. Dissolve yeast in cup of luke warm water and 1 teaspoon sugar. Allow
mixture to stand until yeast starts working, usually within 1/2 hour. Add the
working yeast to mixture in crock and stir until mixed throughly.
4. Place lid or cloth over crock and allow to set 48 to 72 hours in warm
weather and somewhat longer in cold weather, or until it has finished working.
5. After 2 or 3 days foam will rise to top of crock. Do not skim this as
it is the hops and malt working. If skimmed it will lose some of its flavor.
6. It should now be ready to bottle. Siphon into bottles, being careful
not to place end of hose near bottom of crock. A Filter Float will prevent
this.
7. In case the mixture is left in crock too long, add 1/2 teaspoon of sugar to
each bottle. Store in warm place. It should be ready to drink within 7 to
10 days, at which time store in a cool place, or refrigerate.
HELPFUL HINTS
-------------
1. Wash crock in strong Purex water. Sweeten crock by letting set 1/2 to one
hour filled with water and baking soda.
2. Wash bottles clean with soda water but do not use soapy water. Turn
bottles upside down to drain, in rack or case.
3. Soak bottle caps in water ling enough to soften cork before bottling to
make capping easier. Use warm water.
4. Chill before serving. When pouring, slant bottle and glass and pour
slowly to prevent clouding.
5. If it is cloudy or tastes gritty, you have disturbed the sediment by
shaking it up or by pouring too fast.
6. If it tastes "flat" you either bottled it too late, or did not allow it
to age long enough.
7. If it tends to foam up or tastes "airy", you bottled it too soon. The
mixture had not completed.
8. Use of tester. Tester is accurate when it is kept at uniform 65 or 70.
The tester will settle the first day between 3 and 6. This is the approximate
alcohol content. When the tester settles to 1/2% or the red line "B"
it is ready to bottle. If the test settles to "W" it means it is too flat.
Taste to determine if it has turned sour. If not, then add one teaspoon of
sugar to the quart of 1/2 teaspoon to the pint before capping, to resotre life
to it. In the event it has soured, it is spoiled.
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Comments: That last sentence sums up the attitude of the author -- "relax,
don't worry". Any ideas why it is recommended to "sweeten the crock" with
a baking soda solution? The tester (hydrometer) "B" and "W" graduations,
what do they mean? Why not put the crock on the floor?
What is a Filter Float? Bottle Caps with cork seals -- definitely ancient.
Wishing you all a "Hoppy Holiday",
Bruce Hill
P.S. Keep up the good work Rob! I expect a full report of your recent trip :-)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 91 19:17:24 EST
From: srussell@snoopy.msc.cornell.edu (Stephen Russell)
Subject: Burst WYeast Packet, revisited
THE BURST WYEAST 2308...REVISITED
For those who were wondering about the WYeast package whose outer seal we
inadvertently burst (see HBD #786), the answer is that after 3 1/2 days in
the starter, *nothing* had happened. Fortunately, one of my fellow members
in the Ithaca Brewers' Union (Mike Lelivelt -- utb@cornella.cit.cornell.edu)
came to my rescue with a slant he had made up earlier. That particular
starter is going gung-ho after 1 1/4 days. Which is good timing, considering
that we are brewing a Munich Dunkel today.
There's one advantage about being in a homebrew club!
Thanks to all who offered advice/condolences...Frank Tutzauer, Edson Smith,
and especially, Mike. I owe him a beer (and plan to pay up at Goose Island
on Sunday night...join us if you're in the Chicago area!)
Why not a recipe? One particular one comes to mind for some reason....:-)
"BURST BUBBLES, NO TROUBLES" MUNICH DUNKEL
6 lbs Klages
1.5 lbs Vienna
1 lb light Munich
1 lb dark Munich
1.5 lbs dark crystal
0.2 lbs chocolate malt
Doughed in at 90F and temperature raised to 155F over 60 minutes.
Saccharification rest 1 hour at 155F.
Heated to mashout over 10 min and held 5 min. Mashout at 164F.
OG: 1.059 Expected FG: 1.014-1.016
Sparge water acidified to pH 6.0 with lactic acid.
1/2 oz Hersbrucker plugs (2.9% alpha) 60 min
1/2 oz Northern Brewer plugs (7.5%) 60 min
1 oz Hersbrucker plugs 30 min
1/2 oz Hersbrucker plugs 15 min
1/2 oz Tettnanger leaf hops dry hop
1/2 tsp Irish Moss at 30 min
WYeast #2308 Munich Lager
We plan to ferment at 45-50F for 2 weeks
then remove from refrigerator for 2-3 days for diacetyl rest
then lager at 35-40F for 2-3 weeks (dry hop here)
Serve lightly chilled (48F) with a selection of sausages, cheese, and black
radishes...whoops! wrong forum :-)
IBU ERGO SUM,
STEVE
===============================================================================
Stephen Russell
Graduate Student, Department of Materials Science and Engineering
Internet: srussell@snoopy.msc.cornell.edu work: 607-255-4648
Bitnet: srussell@crnlmsc3.bitnet home: 607-273-7306
===============================================================================
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #788, 12/24/91
*************************************
-------
