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HOMEBREW Digest #0745
This file received at Mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU 91/10/22 03:11:00
HOMEBREW Digest #745 Tue 22 October 1991
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Christmas ale & general observations (Chad Epifanio)
Slow fermentation. I'm relaxed and pondering. (HAPANOWI)
Egg Whites and Boiling (Brian Capouch)
Digby and 'beareth an egg' (H.W.) Troup <HWT@BNR.CA>
A Quick Note (Martin A. Lodahl)
Civil War Beer recipes: found (Thomas Manteufel 5-4257)
Coffee Beer (Marc Light)
Hot Wort Oxidation ( gjfix@utamat.uta.edu )
Re: Miller's Book (John DeCarlo)
Brewing equipment setup? (Chris Shenton)
Re: Father Barleywine's yeast reuse trick -- first attempt (Chris Shenton)
Collecting Yeast (KCDESCH)
Homebrew Digest #744 (October 21, 1991) (David Resch)
OG of an ``Egge'' (Chris Shenton)
Bartender's Guide (Michael L. Hall)
Mead Recipes ("Acid should be leagal in Art class.")
Re: Chrishmas (HBD#744) (larryba)
RE- New Brewer suggested reading (hersh)
recipes ("KATMAN.WNETS385")
Orange County brewing. (eapu045)
Send submissions to homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues!]
Archives are available from netlib@mthvax.cs.miami.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 91 15:52:41 PDT
From: chad@mpl.UCSD.EDU (Chad Epifanio)
Subject: Christmas ale & general observations
Hello. Good to see the HBD again.
Someone asked for Christmas beer recipes a while back. Here is a
funky beer I made:
10 lb Klages pale malt } mashed at 158F for 1.5 hrs
0.5 lb amber crystal malt }
2 oz Cascade(4.9%) 10 HBU
3 lbs plums, depitted & sliced
7 oranges; flesh sliced, and peels diced(didn't remove pith)
2 lemons; flesh sliced, and peels diced(didn't remove pith)
1 T gnd nutmeg
3 t whole cloves
5 2"-sticks cinammon
0.5 cp fresh grated ginger root
William's English Brewery Ale yeast(from 12oz starter)
NOTE: forgot Irish Moss
There was too much particulate(orange pits, plum halves, etc) to
get an original SG, so I didn't even bother with a FG.
Boiled hops for 1 hr. Added fruit and spices during final 10min
of boil. Cooled to 80F in half-hour and pitched.
Racked after 5 days, and noted rocky head from fruit pulp.
Added 2T dissolved gelatin after 12 days.
Bottled after 15 days.
It tastes a bit tart, but the hops is a good balance for the sweetness.
Its quite clear, considering all the shit that went in it. A pale
yellow color. I have a cold, so I can't describe the smell, but they
tell me it smells like fruit(shocker). Probably not enough spice
character, namely the cloves and cinammon. All in all, quite drinkable,
but the taste does stay with you for awhile.
In the last four batches, I've added 2T gelatin about 3 days before
bottling. I'm pleased with the results. For the first time, I get
beers that you can see through.
I calculate that on most of my all-grain brews, I calculate I'm only
getting around 1.025/lb of Klages. I just finished 2 identical batches
of brown ale. On the first one, I accidentally boiled the mash for
awhile(forgot the stove was on). This one started 1 point Balling
lower and ended 0.5 Balling higher than the other batch.
I wanted to keg this double batch, because I was trying to avoid the
4 hour bottling session we had last night. HBD went down before I got
any reply about my kegging question. So here it is again:
Anyboy used commercial beer kegs successfully? ASAIRIZ, I have
instructions for removing the ball-tap assemblys. Is it easy, or even
recommended? I have a commission to do a super bowl party, and I'd
rather not go through bottling 15 gal of beer. And please don't tell
me to go buy a keg system, as that won't happen in the near future,
unless the beer fairy leaves one under my pillow.
Chad Epifanio
chad%mpl@ucsd.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 91 21:50 EST
From: <HAPANOWI%CERAMICS.BITNET@CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject: Slow fermentation. I'm relaxed and pondering.
On 9/14/91 I brewed up a batch of Pale Ale. The original SG was 1.045.
After about a week I transfered the batch into a secondary fermenter. The
transfer was made because the fermentation had slowed. The SG at this
time was around 1.035. I thought is was quite high. The airlock would
bubble occasionally, but the time interval between bubbles was long.
Another note; A the brew time the temperature was around 60F, then a
sudden heat wave gave temperatures in the upper 70's for about four days
during the initial fermentation.
I thought the fermentation was stuck, so I took the advice from a brew
shop owner and added champagne yeast. Fermentation continued but the
rate never really picked up. I measured the SG today, 10/18, the measure
result was 1.030. Can anyone give me some advice. I tasted the beer
about two weeks ago, since I added oak chips it had a wood flavor, I can
only describe it as fit for fire-breathing dragons. There was also
sweetness to it. Today the beer tasted sweet, but the wood seemed to
mellow out, it is not bad, there are no "off" flavors. The wood chips were
added the time of transfer to the secondary fermenter, they were removed
about one week later. What do you think? Sit on my hands for a few more
weeks? Can I help the fermentation at all? How would I do this? The
airlock still bubbles but the time interval is quite long, >15 min.
Rick Hapanowicz
HAPANOWICZ@CERAMICS
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 91 22:16:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: Brian Capouch <brianc@zeta.saintjoe.EDU>
Subject: Egg Whites and Boiling
In HBD #743 (and thanks be to Gardner we're back on the air. . ) Jacob
Galley writes:
Has anyone out there ever heard of putting egg whites in the boil?
I've never heard of doing it with brews, but back when I was spending
the time I now spend brewing as a cook (Yup, me too. . .) egg whites
occurred pretty often as a stock clarifier. You might check McGee's
excellent "On Food and Cooking" (first volume)--I'd be surprised if it
weren't discussed in there. I can remember the startlingly clear soups
I produced when I used an egg-white method (which I don't recall very
well) to clarify.
> What on earth does the phrase "beareth an Egge" mean?
Well, how about, "floats an egg," which is what I'm sure he means. The
evaporation of water and concomitant rise in the SG of the liquid, I
presume, would allow one to gauge the progress of the boil by dropping a
fresh egg into the liquid, in case the hydrometer lacked a hundred years
or so of being invented :-)
> What does the thickness of the "Egge" have to do with anything, if
> you've been scumming off the top all the while? (My Webster's says
> that a groat is an old coin worth four pennies.)
Groats are cracked grains, "larger than grits" according to my
dictionary. I would guess this means that just the slightest amount of
eggshell presents itself above the liquid level.
------------------------------
Date: 20 Oct 91 12:55:00 EDT
From: Henry (H.W.) Troup <HWT@BNR.CA>
Subject: Digby and 'beareth an egg'
Digby uses (used?) eggs as hydrometers. 'Beareth an egg ... the
breadth of a groat' means that a fresh laid egg floats so that a circle
the size of a groat coin is above the liquid. A groat was worth four
pennies (Webster's Ninth) and my faulty memory says that it was about
the size of quarter, so we're talking pretty stiff mead here.
A friend of mine in the SCA wrote a paper "The eggs of the very
eminently learned Sir Kenelm Digbie, refloated". He speculated that
the eggs were equivalent to modern bantam eggs. Somewhere I may have
a copy, don't hold your breath.
Hope it's useful...
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 91 13:29:45 PDT
From: Martin A. Lodahl <hpfcmr.fc.hp.com!hplabs!pbmoss!malodah>
Subject: A Quick Note
I must confess, HBD's unplanned hiatus was well-timed, for me.
Between mushrooming work commitments, editorial deadlines, and a
beer-fest that seems to be firmly resisting my efforts to organize
it, I just haven't had the time to be my usual blatherskite self.
But Jeff Frane said a couple of things in HBD 743 that I can't let
pass without commentary:
>In 741, Martin Lodahl: I've been planning a Belgian abbey-style double or
>triple. Wuffo you put in that brown sugar?
I was trying for an effect, and it worked. The idea was to
introduce just a hint of the flavor that in its extreme form is
called "cidery". If just above threshold, it's perceived as a
pleasing complexity. I did the same thing for the same reason
in the batch of Scotch "wee heavy" that I bottled yesterday, and
don't find it pleasing in that batch. Next time I use _that_
recipe, I'll omit the sugar, add some flaked barley, and peat-smoke
the crystal malt more intensely.
> ... WYeast, by the way, will be offering
>a abbey-style yeast within the next month or so.
And, if it's like their other products, it will certainly be
excellent ...
> ... You might have better results
>and avoid the banana-esters; it's possible the bottle yeast wasn't all that
>clean. ??
As I said in my initial posting, this batch went through a hot
fermentation. Others I've spoken with who've fermented hot with Chimay
yeast have had the same results. It appears to be a "nature of the
beast" question.
Which reminds me: does anyone know with a degree of certainty if
Chimay bottles with their regular fermenting yeast (ala Sierra
Nevada), or if, like Worthington and like Orval, they maintain a
separate culture for the purpose? I've heard the question answered
both ways, and would really like to know.
>: I've been told that some British breweries *deliberately*
>oxidize the wort in the kettle in order to darken it; this in lieu of adding
>more caramel malt ...
Odd as it may sound, this makes sense to me, especially for brew
that is not to be bottled. If an entire batch is to be kegged and
consumed within 3 or 4 weeks of brewing, oxidation is less of an
issue. Ditto infection, as a discouraging number of California
pubbrewers seem intent on proving.
>To Darryl: We'll have to wrassle about recommending Dave Miller's book. I think
>it's absolutely the wrong book for a beginning brewer; only an experienced
>brewer is likely to notice all the places Miller's wrong.
This puzzles me greatly. Could you point out a few of these places,
Jeff? And what book would you recommend in its place? By the way,
I'm with Darryl. I'd recommend Miller without hesitation.
> Not to mention the illustration on how to start a siphon! Aaaagh! Get
> your mouth off that, Dave!
I wonder about this. I've never tried any other way, and the only
three batches I've ever had with any symptom of infection at all
have all been directly traceable to the yeast used (dry, in all
cases). I personally am not inclined to view it as a problem.
Well, playtime's over. Back to work ...
= Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Systems Analyst =
= malodah@pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) =
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 06:39:51 CDT
From: tomm@pet.med.ge.com (Thomas Manteufel 5-4257)
Subject: Civil War Beer recipes: found
Hello, fellow history lovers.
Back on September 12, I posted a request for any information on the kinds of
beers produced in the United States during the Civil War era. I want to brew
up a batch to give to my brothers, avid reenacters. Thanks to Jay Hersh,
Mile Schrempp, John Otten (especially) for tips and information.
Here is what I found: Ales, stouts and porters were popular in the 1830's
due to the "British heritage". Most ale was brewed at home before this,
but the commercial breweries became popular with the growth of the cities.
Most ale breweries were established between 1830 and the mid-1850's.
Lager beer was introduced in 1840, and was immediatly popular with the
German immigrants, who found the Ale style too thick and bitter. Lager
didn't really become popular with the mass market until the early 1850's,
but by 1860 had more of the market share than the ales. For example,
there were dozens of ale breweries in Milwaukee in 1850. By 1867, one was
left, and that was sold, (and closed down) in 1880.
So in 1860-1865, both ale (porters and stouts) and lagers were being brewed
and enjoyed. As for the war itself, due to the shortage of manpower both
to collect ice and to brew, ale regained a brief popularity. Even
though troops were officially dry, enterprising brewers still managed to
supply the troops. The NEW YORK HERALD of August 23, 1862 complains bitterly
of the wealthy suppliers who "sip champange" while "supplying ale and porter"
to the troops. Rum was also extremely popular (that British heritage, I
suppose). Beer brewed at home was popular again, due to the shortages of
the war.
Thanks to the National Park Service, I was able to get a hold of a reprint
of an 1863 "Confederate Recipt Book: A Compilation of Over One Hundred
Receipts Adapted to the Times" copyright 1990 by Jefferson Davis Freeman.
Reprinted here, (without permission) are several recipes used by resourceful
confederates to lessen the hardships of a wartime blockade. The word "recipt"
means "recipe".
TABLE BEER
To eight quarts of boiling water put a pound of treacle [molasses], a
quarter of an ounce of ginger and two bay leaves, let this boil for a quarter
of an hour, then cook, and work it with yeast as other beer.
ANOTHER RECEIPT
Eight quarts water, one quart molasses, one pint yeast, one tablespoon cream
of tarter, mixed and bottled in twenty-four hours; or, to two pounds of
coarse brown sugar add two gallons of water, and nearly two ounces hops. Let
the whole boil three quarters of an hour, and then work as usual. It should
stand a week or ten days before being drawn, and will improve daily afterward
for a moderate time.
SPRUCE BEER
Take three gallons of water, blood warmth, three half pints of molasses, a
tablespoon of essence of spruce, and the like quantity of ginger, mix well
together with a gill of yeast, let it stand over night, and bottle in the
morning. It will be in a good condition to drink in twenty-four hours.
GINGER BEER
One pint of molasses and two spoonfuls of ginger put into a pail, to be half
filled with boiling water; when well stirred together, fill the pail with
cold water, leaving room for one pint of yeast, which must not be put in until
lukewarm. Place it on a warm hearth for the night, and bottle in the
morning.
I plan to try at least some of these, and assuming I survive, I'll let you
know how they turn out. There is a whole mess of other recipes and tips here
too, like Catsup and charcol tooth powder and toothache cures. If anyone
is interested drop me a line and I'll let you know how I got my copy. Also,
in my readings, I came upon quite a few other old recipes, such as
Persimmon Beer (which looks like an alcoholic fruit drink), Corn Stalk Beer
(yes, made from green corn stalks) and the beer recipe from a virginian
gentleman named Geo. Washington. If I get enough mail requests (more than 5),
I'll post those too. (Karl L., are you interested?)
Intersting facts I learned:
B. Franklin is credited with bringing a recipe for spruce beer back from
France. There is also a recipe in the journal of a british governor that
was written in 1760. Spruce beer was quite popular in the seventeenth and
eighteenth centuries.
Eberhard Ahheuser was a soap manufacturer before inheriting a brewery. You
may draw your own conclusions from this.
Thomas Manteufel IOFB
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 09:07:03 -0400
From: Marc Light <light@cs.rochester.edu>
Subject: Coffee Beer
I mixed an espresso with 12oz of Bass ale at a Pub recently and was
pleasantly surprised. Any thoughts on the proper technique for
incorporating coffee in the brewing process? I'm sure this idea
has been discussed before, thus perhaps replies via email would be
the way to go. I was planning on making around a gallon of drip
coffee, cooling it down and placing it in the primary with 2
gallons of fresh water before pouring the semi-cool wort in. What
do you think?
Marc Light ARPA: light@cs.rochester.edu
Dept. of Computer Science UUCP: rutgers!rochester!light
University of Rochester VOX: (716) 275-2569
Rochester NY 14627-0226 FAX: (716) 461-2018
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 08:41:00 CDT
From: George.Fix@utamat ( gjfix@utamat.uta.edu )
Subject: Hot Wort Oxidation
Ifor Williams asked (HBD #741) why Dave Miller would recommend
against rough treatment of hot wort when there is already so much
oxidation in the boil.
I feel that Dave's recommendation is sound for the following reasons
(which may or may not be his).First, the oxidation reactions in the
boil are primarily with hop constituents. These reactions are poorly
understood (at least by me),and some may even be beneficial.Rough
treatment of the wort,on the other hand,tends to oxidize malt
constituents generally called reductones.They are also oxidized in
the boil(which results in an increase in wort color),but to a lesser extent
than e.g. when hot wort is splashed during transfer.
Oxidized reductones will interact with alcohols in beer (among other things)
producing a variety of aldehydes.These tend to have an astrigent "grain bitter"
flavors which are sometimes accompanied with a hard metallic finish.Ironically,
reductones which are passed on to the finished beer in their reduced state
tend to act as flavor protectors.They ultimately will become oxidized by
headspace air (no beer has an infinite shelf life),but if the beer is kept
cool during storage this will take a long time.Oxidation reaction rates
increase exponentially with temperature.
It is impossible to prevent some reductones from oxidizing either in the boil
or elsewhere.But experience has shown that beer flavors tend to be more stable
if the oxidation is held to a minimum when the wort is above say 40C(105F).
Our yeast need O2 at the start of the fermentation.However,this is best suppliedafter the wort is chilled and just before the yeast are added.
The above are qualitative trends only.To determine their quantitative relevance
for own brewing systems,we need only examine the contributions from malt to the
flavors of our beers.If they are smooth and rounded,and if these
characteristics tend to be stable,then forget the above.If on the other hand,
some of the flavor tones cited above are sometimes evident,then one might wish
to take another look at the brewing procedures used.
I tried to spell out the reaction systems in detail in my book on brewing
science.I hope this brief summary is useful.
------------------------------
Date: Monday, 21 Oct 1991 09:59:54 EDT
From: m14051@mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Miller's Book
>From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment@rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU>
>Subject: RE: New Brewer suggested reading (J._ )
>JF> To Darryl: We'll have to wrassle about recommending
>JF> Dave Miller's book. I think it's absolutely the wrong
>JF> book for a beginning brewer...
>I think Miller gave me a much better sense of the role of
>sanitation and the actual brewing process (starch conversion,
>fermentation, "breaks", etc) that has stuck with me. He comes
to his subject with a very serious attitude.
Let me add another $.02 worth. I read Papazian first and came
away thinking it was cute but didn't really help me learn how to
brew. I then read Miller and came away thinking it actually told
me every step I needed to know in order to brew. I could
actually write down my own variation of the procedure and feel
confident I hadn't missed anything (and in retrospect, that was
true). So, for people like me who would otherwise be nervous
and worry, Miller is *much* better.
Recipes are a whole 'nother issue. I liked Papazian for recipes
until I tried one that was a dud. He is certainly more fun to
read through, especially when you have more experience and
knowledge to avoid much of the bad recommendations.
BTW, I just recently switched from sucking to start the siphon.
But my old theory was to drink lots of homebrew before starting,
so that the homebrew yeast population was greater than any
bacteria in my mouth :-). May not have been scientifically
valid, but made siphoning more fun.
Internet: jdecarlo@mitre.org
(or John.DeCarlo@f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org)
Fidonet: 1:109/131
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 10:05:29 EDT
From: Chris Shenton <chris@endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Brewing equipment setup?
In HBD #744, Mike Sharp <msharp@cs.ulowell.edu> writes:
> I'll be moving up a homemade stainless setup soon.
Which prompts me to take this survey...
I now mash 10 gallon batches in a big cooler (mash and sparge water
directly from tap at 170F), boil in a topless keg (over two burners), then
split to 2 carboys, then 2 coke/pepsi kegs. It's pretty straight forward,
but could be improved.
I'm casting about for ideas for a simple-to-use brewing setup -- perhaps
gravity feed, no siphoning, etc -- maybe something like the triple bucket
systems sketched in the Zymurgy adverts. My housemate's got a Oxy-Acetylene
welding set and he's looking for a fun project :-)
So, what do you semi-serious, equipment-happy folks use? I'm just looking
for input and ideas, so all are welcome.
Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 10:24:13 EDT
From: Chris Shenton <chris@endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Father Barleywine's yeast reuse trick -- first attempt
(The heretic) Marc Rouleau <mer6g@fuggles.acc.Virginia.EDU> writes:
Marc> Last spring I also stopped using bleach. I don't sanitize anything.
Marc> Ordinary kitchen cleanliness standards (get the big chunks off!) have
Marc> been sufficient for me. I don't keep my beer around for more than a
Marc> few months though -- I don't know if it would keep for a year or more.
This is fantastic -- it's great to hear all the old myths deflated!
On the sanitation issue itself -- not the idea of iconoclasm -- it makes
sense that if the wort is boiled, it's clean; the yeast-cake carboy must be
too, and if you keg in a just-emptied keg, it too is clean (besides, at
this point the alcohol should help prevent infections).
Only one place I can see problems cropping up: the siphon hose from the
cooled wort to the keg. Unless perhaps you use a counter-flow rather than
immersion chiller. Any comments, Marc?
I'm not necessarily advocating everyone throwing away their bleach -- just
intrigued at how much aggravation can be eliminated by taking advantage of
existing conditions and already-known-clean equipment.
- -- relax, don't worry, ad nauseum...
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 09:28:31 EST
From: KCDESCH@ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: Collecting Yeast
All this talk about repitching yeast from previous batches has motivated
me to give it a try. I realize that sanitation is a great concern. But
how does one remove the yeast from the secondary and store it before repitching
so that no nasties get involved? I use british ale yeast for pale ales but I
don't enjoy spending five bucks a pop. If anyone can give me some advice beforethe 25th of October I would sure appreciate it.
the way, I thinh I've come to a decision about the use of a plastic fermenter. The general response to my question in the last digest about getting rid of the
smell in my plastic primary fermenter was "good luck!" So I think I'll just
have to sell some blood plasma and purchase a six gallon glass carboy. Plastic
is too risky.
Thanks for the advice and please send more about repitching yeast.
Karl Desch
KCDESCH@indiana.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 08:51:08 MDT
From: resch@craycos.com (David Resch)
Subject: Homebrew Digest #744 (October 21, 1991)
> So, what is cara pils? Is it a malt that also goes by some other name? What
> does it add to the brew?
The other name for "cara pils" is dextrin malt. This malt is similar to crystal
malt in that during processing the starchy endosperm becomes crystalized. The
crystal, however, is almost colorless due to being kilned at a significantly
lower temperature than crystal malt. Dextrin malt is suppose to add
unfermentable dextrins, but very little color to the beer. The dextrins are
suppose to add body, i.e., mouth-feel to the finished beer.
I say "suppose to" in the previous two statements because they have been the
subject of significant previous discussions in this forum. Specifically, it has
been argued that if the dextrin malt is mashed, then a large portion of the
dextrins are converted to simple sugars and so are fermented out and don't add
much residual body to the beer. The other discussion has revolved around
whether proteins or dextrins are primarily responsible for adding mouth-feel to
beer. With that said, I use dextrin malt in some of my lighter beers and feel
that it does indeed add some residual body to the finished product (and I do
mash it with all of the other grains)
Dave
>From: dbeedle@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Dave Beedle)
>Subject: Request for info...
> 1) Saaz hops - Where are they grown? Distinguishing characteristics.
>Alpha content. Classic beers it is found in. That sort of info.
Ahh, those Saaz hops!!! Saaz hops come primarily from a small hop-growing
region near the town of Zatec in Czechoslovakia. Zatec is about 40 miles
northwest of Prague. I believe that they are now grown in other places in
Europe, but this is their place of origin and the majority of them still come
from this region.
Saaz hops are often described as having a "spicey" character. I'm not sure I
totally agree, but they do impart a wonderful hoppy aroma and flavor to the
beers they are added to. I don't have any information with me, but I believe
that Saaz hops are fairly low alpha acid hops in the 3.5-4.0 percent range.
They are used primarily in classic Pilsner style beers and I believe are the
only hops used by the Pilsner Urquel brewery which produces the beer that
defines the Pilsner style.
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 10:52:32 EDT
From: Chris Shenton <chris@endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: OG of an ``Egge''
I don't suppose it would be too much trouble to plop an egg (shell on) into
the wort and take a hydrometer reading when the width of a groat (about
1/16th inch?) is above the surface.
But couldn't you do the same off-line by just dissolving sugar in water
which has an egge in it, continuing to add sugar until the egge was at the
appropriate displacement? Then just measure the SG of this solution.
By the way, I assume the egge is raw when plopped into the wort, but
becomes *hard* boiled after a while. This shouldn't change it's SG, should it?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 09:41:03 MDT
From: mlh@cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall)
Subject: Bartender's Guide
I ftp'ed the bartender's guide from 131.151.23.29 (alpha.physics.umr.edu)
and I'm having trouble getting it to print out. I uncompressed and unshared
it, then followed the instructions of:
tbl bartender | troff -ms -t | lpr
(among many other attempts). It prints out only part of the guide, and
screws up the format considerably. I'm on a Sun Sparcstation 2 with an
HP LJ-III printer. Is there another version of this file, perhaps in
PostScript? It looks like it took a lot of effort to put this all together
and I would really like to be able to use it.
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael L. Hall There are times, sir, when men of good conscience |
| hall@lanl.gov cannot blindly follow orders. - Jean-Luc Picard |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1991 11:52 CDT
From: "Acid should be leagal in Art class." <2681ZINGELMA@vmsf.csd.mu.edu>
Subject: Mead Recipes
Hi! I want to try my hand at making mead, but I thought I'd ask for some
good recipes first. My tastes go more towards the sparkling meads than the
still ones, but I'll appreciate either. If you think other HBD readers will
like 'em, go ahead and post the recipes. Otherwise email me at:
2681zingelma@vms.csd.mu.edu
Thanks in advance!
Pete
____________________________________________________________________________
| "...then the bird flew over and the |
| Pete Zingelman @Marquette U. '''' earth stood still, but only for a |
| 2681zingelma@vms.csd.mu.edu c-00 moment as the closing chill, of |
| 1716 W. Wisconsin #312 _ o reality awakened me, and crushed |
| Milwaukee WI 53233 / \ my dreams. |
| -P.Z. |
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Date: Mon Oct 21 10:43:34 1991
From: microsoft!larryba@cs.washington.edu
Subject: Re: Chrishmas (HBD#744)
Bill Thacker:
The recipe for christmas ale calling for 10lb of extract malt
would certainly get you an OG > .070. If you look at Miller
(TCHOHB). The SG/lb/gal for malt extracts (and honey) is ~.040,
for dry extract it is .044. Simple math will tell you what your
OG *will* be:
3.5lb * .040 - syrup
3.5lb * .044 - dry extract
.75lb * .040 - honey
----
.324 / 5.0 - final volume
----
1.065 - OG
If you throw another 3lb of dry extract into the boil the
calucated OG would be (Golly, guess what!) 1.088!!!
Cheers!
Larry Barello
P.S. I believe in "Brewing as a Science" for those things easily
calculated and measured, "Brewing as an Art" for the rest.
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 17:45:48 EDT
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu
Subject: RE- New Brewer suggested reading
Russ & JF, and any one else interested.
I ALWAYS recommend Byron Burches book to new brewers.
While this book typically only takes the new brewer through the first
few batches, it has a lot of merits. It is inexpensive, easy to read, packed
with get you started info, pictures & recipes. I think it is the best "get you
off the ground book" out there.
- JaH
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 20:07 GMT
From: "KATMAN.WNETS385" <6790753%356_WEST_58TH_5TH_FL%NEW_YORK_NY%WNET_6790753@mcimail.com>
Subject: recipes
Date: 21-Oct-91 Time: 04:06 PM Msg: EXT02116
Hi folks,
I have a few recipes for cooking with beer. They were in the paper last
week. If anyone wants them, e-mail me. If I get more than a few, I'll post to
the digest.
I bottled an xmas porter last week. It was far thinner than I anticipated,
Could this have been due to insufficiently cracked grains? There was also a bit
of white scum around the top edges of the beer. How can I tell if this was
bacteria or wild yeast? The beer tasted ok, although due to the orange peel and
spices, it was a bit sharp. I anticipating this mellowing by xmas.
Recipe: (5 gallons)
6.6 lbs light malt extract
crystal malt (about two double handfuls)
chocolate malt (about one double handful)
cluster hops
chinook hops
calcium carbonate
irish moss
M&F ale yeast
6 cinnamon sticks
10 cloves
about 1 inch grated fresh ginger
peel of 3 oranges (grated, no pith)
I crushed the grains, steeped them for barley tea, and took them out when the
boil started. Put the malt in and the cinnamon, cloves and cluster hops. I
grated the rinds and ginger in as the boil commenced (getting the last of the
orange rind in only about 5 min. before the end). I put in the chinook hops 1/2
at 15 min and the rest at 25 min. Put cold water in a carboy, strained my wort
in, sloshed a lot, and let cool overnight. Pitched a starter the next morning,
and the fermenting seemed to run its course in about 2 days. Wow! We did have
95+ temps those days.... I also had a massive boilover (mom always calls at the
worst times...). It sat in primary for 2 weeks, then sat in secondary for 2-3.
We bottled last week, and it tasted ok for flat, warm beer. No noticeable
spice, the fruit gave it a small bit of acid tang. Of course, we'll be tasting
it every 2-3 weeks between now and xmas just to see how it develops. Next batch
I plan to try to use my hydrometer. This was a kit from BarleyMalt and Vine and
I added the spice and fruit. They make nice kits. 617-327-0089.
Lee Katman == Thirteen/WNET == New York, NY
=Do not= use REPLY or ANSWERBACK, I can not receive mail in that fashion.
Please send all mail to
INTERNET katman.wnets385%wnet_6790753@mcimail.com
OR
MCIMAIL EMS: wnet 6790753 MBX: katman.wnets385
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 17:00:30 -0700
From: eapu045@orion.oac.uci.edu
Subject: Orange County brewing.
There is a homebrew store in Orange that also has a brewclub meeting once a
month I beleive. Fun Fermentations (714) 532-6831.
You could try contacting Bear Drinkers of America, there headquarters are
located right here in Costa Mesa. Good luck and please let me know what
you find out.
Jason
eapu045@orion.uci.edu
anteaters brew
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #745, 10/22/91
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