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HOMEBREW Digest #0737
This file received at Mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU 91/10/03 03:14:24
HOMEBREW Digest #737 Thu 03 October 1991
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Re: Bottling Beer (joem)
Non-jellying jelly (lutzen)
Re: Guinness spelling (John Coughlin)
spruce soda ("Ihor W. Slabicky")
Re: Geary's (nnieuwej)
A call for recipes (night)
Express bottle washing (Dances with Workstations)
Great Western Malting mail order (larryba)
Homebrew digest (Michael L. Hall)
The Composition of Beer (STROUD)
comments (Daniel L. Krus)
Cat's Meow (ingr!b11!mspe5!guy)
Hops extraction and addition to BEER (MEHTA01)
ARCHIVES... (Dave Rose)
Small batches? (Kevin J. Slater)
Send submissions to homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues!]
Archives are available from netlib@mthvax.cs.miami.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 91 09:03:38 MET
From: joem@hpgnd.grenoble.hp.com
Subject: Re: Bottling Beer
John DeCarlo asks about the foaming up at bottling time:
> 3) If I use a bottle filler, with a spring that stops the flow
> when pressure is removed, it foams up quite a bit at the
> beginning, until it is under the beer. If I just fill from
> the tap on the bottling bucket into the bottle, it also tends
> to foam up a bit unless I am really careful and use a slow
> fill rate. So far, neither of these has resulted in a beer
> that is obviously oxidized, but I worry nonetheless (I have
> tasted a batch that was oxidized--yuck). Any suggestions?
I use a siphon hose and a `bottling wand' (with the spring-loaded
gadget you mention). Since the pressure that is seen at the end of
the siphon hose depends on how far it is below top of the beer in the
bin, here's what I do to avoid the foam:
I Raise the bottle and the `wand' when I start filling each bottle.
The flow of beer into the bottle is slowed down, and no foam is
created. Then, when the level of beer in the bottle covers the
bottle filler (spring-loaded part), I lower the bottle and the wand
to speed up the flow.
Joe "Brewing Beer in Wine Country" McCarthy
(Besides felix@vega.laas.fr and pyt@hpgnd, does anyone else in France
subscribe to the HBD?)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 91 07:49:29 CDT
From: lutzen@phys1.physics.umr.edu (lutzen)
Subject: Non-jellying jelly
No, this is definitely not a Homebrew Digest topic. But then again, all
the talk of Gals in beer commercials isn't either.
The answer to your sisters problem is pectin, the lack of. If you add com-
mercially availble pectin, Sure-Jell (sp? I'm at work, can't look it up),
you will solved this problem. Now, if you want to do it the old-timers way,
ya gotta cook that baby for a Loooooong time. I made some apple jelly
according to my grandmother's recipe, and I ended up cooking the stuff for
about an hour and a half. If a long string hangs down off of the spoon
when you lift it from your concoction, it's ready for canning. Don't be
surprised if the jelly takes a long time to set up. That particular batch
of apple jelly took over two months to harden up. (didn't cook quite long
enough, or didn't use enough GREEN apples). But it tasted great as both a
syrup and a jelly. :-)
Also, some fruits don't have as much pectin as others. Green apples tend
to be loaded with it, while Red Ripe apples don't have quite enough. Probably
due to the moisture content of the apple. Some friends of mine made crab-
apple jelly, and it took no time to set up. As soon as the liquid cooled,
you had to scrape to get it off the pans and spoons. With anything, practice
makes perfect...
Karl Lutzen lutzen@apollo.physics.umr.edu
Physics Dept. lutzen@olson.physics.umr.edu
University of Missouri - Rolla 314-341-6317
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 91 09:31:24 EDT
From: wcsjc@ccs.carleton.ca (John Coughlin)
Subject: Re: Guinness spelling
In HOMEBREW Digest #736, drunken leprechauns made BREIN@dsfvax.jpl.nasa.gov
write:
> Remember, Guinness is spelled with double-n double-s.
>
> Barry Rein
Amazing beer-related factoid: The Irish name Guinness means 'one
choice'. Of course, we Guinness imbibers all know this implicitly!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 91 09:36:25 -0400
From: "Ihor W. Slabicky" <iws@sgfb.ssd.ray.com>
Subject: spruce soda
All this talk of spruce beer reminded me that there is a
a spruce SODA available in Canada - I have seen it in stores
in the Eastern Townships area of Quebec - Sherbrooke and Magog.
I was not very impressed with it - like drinking sweet, carbonated,
turpentine :-P ... sorry, but's that's what it tasted like to me.
Oddly enough, the only brands that were sold were all store brands,
no private companies or big time labels...
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 91 13:55:02 -0400
From: nnieuwej@cub.bowdoin.edu
Subject: Re: Geary's
IN HBD #736 Jeff Frane asks about Geary's Ale.
Brewed and bottled in Portland, ME. It is by far the best beer I've ever had
from a microbrewery. Of course I haven't had nearly the range of opportunities
that you on the west coast have. I can however recommend staying away from
Wild Goose (from one of the Carolinas I believe).
Geary's is the perfect 'end of the day, but still just a bit before dinner'
kinda beer. Very bitter and hoppy, just like Mom used to make.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 91 08:39:16 -0700
From: night@mapme7.map.tek.com
Subject: A call for recipes
I have noticed that most recipes posted are ones that the homebrewers
have yet to try... They are always a recipe of "what I brewed last
night". This disturbs me. I, personally, would not use any of these
recipes because the results have yet to be seen. I have nothing against
those who post such recipes, it's just that I would much rather make
my own.
I am proposing a one time method of getting GOOD recipes posted.
Would every homebrewer who has brewed at least 10 batches post the recipe
of their ONE, and only one, FAVORITE batch?
Cheers!
Mark Nightingale night@tekig7.MAP.TEK.COM
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 91 15:30:39 EDT
From: Dances with Workstations <buchman@marva1.dco.DEC.COM>
Subject: Express bottle washing
There's been much talk lately about ways to beat the drudgery of sanitizing
bottles before brewing. Lately it has been recommended that heat--either
by baking in the oven or running the bottles through the DRY cycle of the
dishwasher would work. SO I was wondering...
Is there any reason that microwaving the bottles for a couple minutes at
high power wouldn't do the trick equally well? This would fry the little
nasty contaminants directly and not unduly heat the glass ( I would
imagine). It would be faster than heating /cooling in the dishwasher
or oven, and you wouldn't have to worry about annealing the glass.
I'm going to check this out with my biochemist brother and botanist
sister, but would appreciate the opinion of the brewing community.
Since I rarely cook with microwaves I don't know whether this would
do bad things to glass, either.
Jim Buchman
buchman@marva1.enet.dec.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed Oct 02 09:49:57 1991
From: larryba@microsoft.com
Subject: Great Western Malting mail order
I called GWM (1-916-824-3888) and got the skinny on their
mail order malts:
Pale Ale (mainly klages, but not identified as such in
case they want to substitute something else)
20lb @ $.70/lb ($14.00) + shipping
30lb @ $.65/lb ($19.50)
40lb @ $.60/lb ($24.00)
Shipping to Seattle from Sacramento is $8.35
All specialty malts are $1.00/lb and are from
some english supplier.
I have used GWM stuff for about a year and have been pleased
with the quality and uniformity of their products. At the
Brewers Warehouse (seattle) I get a grain card (pre-paid) and
the pale ale is $.85/lb and specialties are $1.00/lb. Since
the brew shop measures and grinds for me it isn't worth
going through the mail.
Now, GWM is willing to sell 2000lb pallets for $.30/lb...
They allow mixing grains on the pallet - specialties are
around $.36 to $.38/lb - all pretty cheap. Shipping to
my doorstep would add another $.05/lb - Hmmm. Time to start
a brewing coop!
Also the guy in Vancover Wa (where the bulk orders would
come for me) said the premium pale malt (what we all call
klages) is really 55% harrington and 45% klages.
Interesting stuff...
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 91 15:05:26 MDT
From: mlh@cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall)
Subject: Homebrew digest
I would like to get my name on ANY homebrew related
mailing lists or digests. I am a homebrewer and the
editor of our local homebrew club's newsletter. Our
club is called the Los Alamos Hill Hoppers and our
newsletter is the Suds Times. My Stats are:
Dr. Michael L. Hall
505 Oppenheimer Dr., Unit 1302
Los Alamos, NM 87544
email: hall@ lanl.gov or mlh@cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov
phone: 505-665-4312 (work)
Thanks,
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1991 15:59 EST
From: STROUD%GAIA@leia.polaroid.com
Subject: The Composition of Beer
Thought you all might be interested in this (it's from The Spectrum, Vol. 4, #
2, 1991):
The taste and the flavor of beer are determined by the combination of several
hundreds of chemical substances. A typical composition of lager beer is
represented in the table below. The energy value of 1800 kJ/kg is less than
that of fruit juice, wine, or milk. The most important energy contributions in
beer are due to ethanol (29 kJ/g) and carbohydrates (16 kJ/g). Beers with a
low ethanol content (so-called alcohol free beers)......are not diet drinks
unless the concentration of carbohydrates is below 10g/kg. Variations in the
amounts of both ethanol and carbohydrates are found. An alcohol-free beer may
even contain more carbohydrates than a lager beer, which detracts it from being
light. On the other hand, the concentration of carbohydrates in a beer may be
low, yet the ethanol content can be elevated. To avoid confusion, one should
carefully consult the information on the label.
The composition of a typical lager beer (in g/kg)
Water 920
Ethanol 40
Carbohydrates 30
Carbon Dioxide 5
Amino acids 1
Potassium 0.490
Phosphorus 0.225
Magnesium 0.105
Hop derivatives 0.035
Calcium 0.035
Sodium 0.030
Vitamin B 0.010
Flavor compounds <0.010
Other components ca 3
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1991 18:30:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: D_KRUS@UNHH.UNH.EDU (Daniel L. Krus)
Subject: comments
With respect to Nils' and possible Russ' comments on Gritty McDuff's in
Portland, ME. I've been to GMcD's 3 times in the last 3 years. Each time
I've tried all of their brews. To this date I still have not been able to
finish a beer there. Others may call it beer, I call it swill. As much as
I enjoy brewpubs, I won't even consider stopping into GMcD's anymore when I
venture to Portland.
To Jeff Frane on Geary's Pale Ale: I think Geary's Pale Ale is one of New
Englands (possibly America's) finest achievements. No more need be said.
Dan
|**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:|
| Internet: D_KRUS@unhh.unh.edu | Daniel L. Krus |
| Compuserve: 71601,365 | Parsons Hall |
|-----------------------------------------------| Department of Chemistry |
| "A good word is an easy obligation, but not | U of New Hampshire |
| to speak ill, requires only our | Durham, New Hampshire 03824 |
| silence, which costs us nothing." Tillotson | (603) 862-2521 |
|**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:**:|
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 91 17:56:30 CDT
From: ingr!ingr!b11!mspe5!guy@uunet.UU.NET
Subject: Cat's Meow
Where can one get the Cat's Meow recipe book and what format is it in?
Thanks!
- --
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1991 19:04:14 -0500 (CDT)
From: MEHTA01@UTSW.SWMED.UTEXAS.EDU
Subject: Hops extraction and addition to BEER
Hi. Reading HBD#736, i realized that the Vodka/Everclear method of extraction
is something i've thought about before and would like to try this time for
the weizen i have fermenting. Do i just place hops in vodka for a week and then
add vodka (sans hops) to fermenting weizen? Would that work (to give the taste
and aroma?) or should i add both vodka and hops to fermenter?
Please reply to mehta01@utsw.swmed.utexas.edu
Also, since i mentioned my weizen, i would like to get YHO about
WHAT HAPPENED.
i did a bad mash, due to overconsumption of homebrew, and ended up
protein resting for 8 hours (i just left it overnight) and then the conversion
wasn't complete (as shown by the bloody iodine test :-0 ) and then, to top
off this great beginning (which i named WUNDER WEIZEN before i started :-) ),
i decided to use Bavarian Weizen yeast (Wyeast). The package swelled and the
starter activity was a little low (little foam on top) but i pitched. Activity
was seen (many bubbles/min.) after 24 hours. Fermentation was carried out at
10-15 C in my fridge. Now, after 1 1/2 weeks there is almost no activity,
and the SG dropped to <1. Oh yes, i added some amylase after activity
had slowed down, to clear the starch left over from bad mash (see above :-( ).
ALso, a slight foam stayed on the top after the initial foamy
krauzen had dropped. This is still OK, as i have had more perplexing things
happen. The only problem is this pungent smell that came out of the airlock
during teh slow activity period (before amylase and after) and most important
the beer does NOT SMELL or TASTE ANYTHING like the smell when the WYeast
packet was opened, or like a normal WEIZEN. !! ??
Please post YHO, any comments or suggestions, to
mehta01@utsw.swmed.utexas.edu
Perplexed.
Shreefal Mehta
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1991 21:53 EDT
From: Dave Rose <CHOLM@HUBIO2.HARVARD.EDU>
Subject: ARCHIVES...
Hello. Does anyone know what's going on with MTHVAX.CS.MIAMI.EDU? They
used to allow anonymous FTP's to get HBD archives, but lately I can't get
on. Are they out of the archive business? Thanks....
Dave Rose
CHOLM@HUBIO2.HARVARD.EDU
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 91 13:01:21 EDT
From: sps!system@darth.pgh.pa.us@sps
To: homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
From: sps!system@darth.pgh.pa.us (Kevin J. Slater)
Subject: Small batches?
A friend and I have been discussing the possibility of brewing smaller
batches of beer to help speed up our knowlegde aquisition process. You
see I'm not a large consumer of beer, but very much enjoy the hobby of
making my own. (Not to mention the significant taste/variety advantage over
commercial stuff.) I'd like to be able to brew about a 1 case batch at
a time. I do only extract and partial grain recipes and mostly want to
be able to experiment with different styles. What adjustments to the
standard ~ 5 gal recipes would be necessary? Would the standard issue 7
gal plastic primary fermenting vessel be okay for the initial ferment?
We figured that a 3 gal glass carboy could be used for the secondary.
- - - - - - - + - - - - - - - - + - - - - - - -
Kevin J. Slater (sps!system@darth.pgh.pa.us) |
Slater Programming Services |
Glenshaw, PA 15116-0027 |
- - - - - - - + - - - - - - - - + - - - - - - -
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #737, 10/03/91
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