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HOMEBREW Digest #0741

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This file received at Mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU  91/10/09 03:16:34 


HOMEBREW Digest #741 Wed 09 October 1991


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
Beer Paraphernalia Show (MIKE LIGAS)
Article for New Homebrewers (MIKE LIGAS)
Re: Various (Mike Sharp)
Christmas recipe (lotus!"LDBVAX!EMCGOWAN")
Christmas recipe
Advertising for No Gain (MIKE LIGAS)
Gibbs (08-Oct-1991 0920)
re: Le Garde ("Jack D. Hill")
Apple Flavor? (FSAC-FCD) <dward@PICA.ARMY.MIL>
Opportunism on the HBD (a mild flame) (Kevin L. McBride)
ice chest lauter tun (Darryl Richman)
Best Beer (Kevin L. McBride)
Greetings one and all... (lutzen)
Re: Papazian Book-Signing in Boston (gonzalez)
re: A Few Brew Questions (Darryl Richman)
Kid Stuff ("John Reed in Waltham, MA")
red thing on top (Carl West)
RE- Shameless ad's... (Rad Equipment)
RE: Shameless ad's... Time:8:38 AM Date:10/8/91
My best recipe... (night)
Request for digest (Robert Neilson)
Chimay yeast (Brian Bliss)
Shameless commercials (Larry McCaig)
Great Stout! (Peter Glen Berger)
Ads on the digest. ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
Staleness Date (C.R. Saikley)
Anker Beer (C.R. Saikley)
SA holiday brew (Russ Gelinas)
The votes are in, & we have a new Unit of Measure.... the SmU (Greg Roody - dtn 237-7122)
Brown Ale (Bob_Konigsberg)
Papazian coming to Boston (STROUD)
papazian coming to Boston (STROUD)
Requests for Brewpub Info. (palladin)
Fave Recipe, Adverts (Martin A. Lodahl)
Oxidising Wort (Ifor Williams)


Send submissions to homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues!]
Archives are available from netlib@mthvax.cs.miami.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1991 09:51:00 -0400
From: MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS@SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA>
Subject: Beer Paraphernalia Show


The Canadian Brewerianist (Golden Horseshoe Chapter) will be hosting a
Buy/Sell/Trade session on Saturday, October 26th, 1991. The rest of the details
are:
Place: Gennaro's
Time: 11:00am-3:00pm
Address: 500 Queen St. E.
Toronto, Ontario
DOOR PRIZES! PUBLIC WELCOME.

For tables and/or information call Larry (416) 465-3386

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1991 13:48:00 -0400
From: MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS@SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA>
Subject: Article for New Homebrewers

Here's a little article which I wrote a year ago for a local homebrew
club. I wrote it to provide basic information for newcomers to the hobby. The
only point which is missing which should have been mentioned is the need for
extreme cleanliness. All pieces of equipment should be cleaned thoroughly and
sanitized with a mild bleach solution prior to use. Large pails and carboys can
be soaked for 30 minutes in a mild bleach solution containing 1/2 teaspoon
bleach per 5 gallons of water. They do not need to be rinsed but must be
thoroughly drained before being employed. Everything must be cleaned well after
brewing to avoid the growth of nasty microbes on brewing equipment during
storage.

The article is written for first time brewers who will be using kits.
The only reason this angle was taken was because the interested brewers wished
to keep things as simple as possible for their first few batches. The procedure
outlined in the article is one which will produce good, consistent results as
simply as possible. Variations on the described procedure can no doubt be
suggested (ie. length of boil, etc.) but simplicity was the objective.

*******************************************************************************


ARTICLE: BETTER BREWING WITH BEER KITS.


As you all know, brewing beer can be accomplished in various ways, from
grain mashing, mash/extract recipes, extracts only, and from the use of
prehopped 'kits'. You can brew excellent beer using any method as long as you
pay attention to details, like thorough cleanliness, minimal use of adjuncts,
healthy yeast, etc. Many new homebrewers start by brewing from kits and gain
valuable experience this way. The quality and variety of kits available to
homebrewers has improved drastically over the past few years and some folks brew
exclusively from kits due to their convenience and tasty results. The choice to
move into extract or mash brewing is a personal one, and is by no means
necessary. Just do what suits you. Since many of you are new homebrewers and
are using prehopped kits, we have prepared a step by step guideline to brewing
beer from kits which will improve your results if you are currently employing
the manufacturers suggestion of using corn sugar to raise the gravity of the
wort.

1. Bring 4 to 5 litres (1 Imp. gal.) of cold water to a boil in a stainless
steel or enamel pot (NO ALUMINUM). Stir in 1.5 kg light (pale) unhopped malt
extract (dried, syrup, or combination) and bring back to a boil. Boil for 15
to 20 minutes.

2. Stir in the contents of your can of kit beer and bring back to a boil. Boil
for 5 more minutes. Remove from heat and pour into your primary fermenter.
Top up to 22.5 litres (5 Imp. gal.) with cold water and stir well. If
necessary, cool to 19-22C by immersing your covered fermenter in a tub of
cold water and pitch yeast.*

3. Ferment for 3 to 5 days and then rack into a clean glass carboy and seal with
an airlock.** Try to fill the carboy to 1 -2 inches below the bottom of the
rubber bung. If the beer foams for a few days after racking, just put a tube
into the hole in the rubber bung and immerse the other end of the tube into a
pail of water. When foaming subsides, replace the tube with an airlock.

4. The beer will continue to ferment slowly for 3 - 10 days, and maybe longer
for high gravity beers or slow fermenting yeast strains. When visible signs
of fermentation are nil (very few rising CO2 bubbles) the beer is ready to
bottle.

5. For bottling, dissolve 3/4 to 1 cup of corn sugar (Dextrose) in a small
volume of water (1 - 2 cups) and bring to a boil. Cool until warm and pour
the sugar solution into your primary fermenting vessel. Siphon your finished
beer into the same vessel, being careful not to agitate and thereby oxidize
your beer. Gently stir to ensure that the dextrose is evenly mixed into the
beer and fill your bottle to approximately one inch from the top. Secure caps
and let the bottles stand for one to two weeks at room temperature in a dark
place and then refrigerate.

6. You can start drinking your beer at this point but a few more weeks in the
cold will help develop smoothness and flavour. You may wish to hide a few
bottles away for a few months just to see if the particular style of beer you
have made ages well.

* Yeast must be treated with respect if you want a healthy fermentation. If
you are not using a liquid culture, which is highly recommended, then you
should rehydrate the dried yeast which is supplied with the kit. First, boil
some water in a kettle and pour about one cup into a glass and cover with a
plate. Let the this stand until the water temperature is between 35C - 43C.
Empty the dried yeast into the warm water and let the yeast stand for 5 to 10
minutes. Stir the yeast slurry and pour into your wort and mix well.

** It is never necessary to suck on a hose to start a siphon. This is a common
source of contamination. Just fill your hose with water and clamp it shut so
the water stays in the hose. Immerse one end in the beer, place the other
end at a lower level in a cup, and open the clamp to start the siphon. When
the water has collected in the cup and beer is in the tube, clamp shut and
transfer to your pail or carboy and commence siphoning.

*******************************************************************************


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 8:09:29 EDT
From: Mike Sharp <msharp@cs.ulowell.edu>
Subject: Re: Various

Justin Aborn sasy/asks:
> I have a pear tree in my back yard that produces prodigious
> amounts of fruit that I usually wind up throwing away. As a
> brewer, other possibilities come to mind...
>
> Does pear beer sound good or gross?
umm, in a word, YES!

I would suggest that you use these in either a wine or a mead.
Of course this is only what _I_ would do with them. Your
mileage may vary.

and Chris Shenton asks:
> A question for HBD-land: Wyeast wheat-beer is (unfortunately) a mix of
> S. Delbrukii a basic beer yeast. Do you think repitching like this would
> select for eventual domination by one or the other strain?
I don't know of a way to guarantee which would dominate (if one ever does).
However, if your goal is a pure culture of S. Delbrukii you can 'plate out'
the Wyeast culture. You will note that there are two different size
colonies. I _believe_ (someone who remembers help me out) the S. cerevisiae
is larger in size than the S. Delbukii. So, you then take a culturing
loop and grab up a bunch of these smaller colonies & grow them in ~5ml of
starter solution. Then you perform the whole process again (plating, etc)
until you don't seem to have any more S. cerevisiae. Of course it
may just be easier to find someone who have already done this. Drop me
a line in a week or two & I can tell you for sure if its the large or
small colonies you want.


Peter Karp asks:
> Has anyone in the New England area had a taste of a contract brewed
> beer called En Garde. It is said to be in the style of the French
> Biere de Garde (eg. St Leonard, Trois Monts, Jenlain). Where can I
> get some?
Yes, I've had it, and I like it. IMHO, its a good biere de garde.
Its similar to those you mention so it must be 'in the style' anyway.
Its handled by 'Dark Cloud Distributors' somewhere in eastern MA.
(in fact, I think they're somewhere near Tewksbury) I've seen it
at most of the well stocked liquor stores in MA. Two that come to
mind are Harrington's in Chelmsford, and Aubut's in Tewksbury.
I wouldn't be supprised if both were running low now, I believe
that this first run has almost entirly sold out now. Another
should be on the way.

and Greg Roody - dtn 237-7122 <roody@necsc.enet.dec.com> says:
> So, how many people would like to see (even "non-profit") ads limited to
> either 5 lines maximum or banned outright?
I'll go for a limitation. I won't go so far as to ban a message outright
because there are people out there who have useful products
(lambic cultures:-). Provided that the ad is appropriate, in good taste,
and doesn't appear more than 1-2 times per quater I wouldn't mind greatly.
I'd prefer the ads to be <5 lines and direct those interested to an e-mail
address for a full announcement.
-or-
perhaps have an 'advertisements' issue every few months? I can think of
a few people who having interesting toys tey'd probably like to advertise.
(hi Darryl)

Finally, since this is a digest and we have a moderator, I'll leave it up
to him to decide the issue.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 08:37:43 EDT
From: hp-pcd.cv.hp.com!lotus!"LDBVAX!EMCGOWAN"
Subject: Christmas recipe

~~inner_header~~
To: UNIXML::"homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com"
Subject: Christmas recipe
Source-Date: 8 Oct 1991 8:34 est

I am planning to make a christmas ale so I was excited when some contributers
mentioned a good recipe in digest #693. Alas, after searching through my local
back issues, there was no 693 to be found. Could someone either email em or
post the recipe. Thanks.

Also, I didn't notice a date on the Charlie Papazian book signing. Will it be
any day in particular?

E.J.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1991 08:44 EDT
From: MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS@SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA>
Subject: Advertising for No Gain


HD740 had quite a few letters which bring into question the use of HD as an
advertising forum. One letter brought up the issue of discerning between ads
for profit vs. ads for non-profit. Well, here's my two cents worth.

I have submitted many postings in the past which could have been interpreted
as advertising. Examples include a plug for the Canadian Amateur Brewers
Association (CABA) which is a non-profit organization resembling the AHA,
a notification of an upcoming CABA conference and competition, an ad for an
International Beer, Wine and Food Festival, and an as of yet to appear note on
a Brewerianist show coming soon to Toronto (I sent this one last Sunday and I
haven't seen it in HD yet). In no case am I attached to these organizations as
a representative or potential profiteer. I simply posted these letters because
I felt they would be of interest to homebrewers and beer lovers.

Still I felt somewhat put-off by the comments in HD740. Maybe a simple rule is
for the person posting the letter there should be no monetary gain from the ad.
Although this is a rather loose rule at least we won't be suppressing general
communication on beer issues and confining ourselves to trading recipes and
problem shooting, both valuable but tedious after a while. This is a homebrew
forum which allows general reading on beer related issues and according to the
"advertisement" for Homebrew Digest available through Seenet even wine and mead
discussion is allowed. Let's not stifle free speech in the name of political
correctness.
RDWHAHB

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 06:24:24 PDT
From: 08-Oct-1991 0920 <hannan@gnpike.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Gibbs

Gary Mason writes:

> I am not certain about the origins of the name for Fritz Maytag's place, but
> there is an Anchor Brewery in Salisbury, Wiltshire, England. It brews under
> the name of Gibbs Mew PLC. I did not have a chance to sample them this trip
> (next time!), but they have several bitters and a barley wine in their suite.
> Just looking at the place makes me think it may be older than the US version.

Sounds like we had a similar itinerary in the UK... ;-)

I visited Salisbury and sampled some Gibbs Mew beer. Good stuff but nothing
extraordinary.

Bishops Tipple I believe is the name of the barley wine put out by Gibbs.
When we went into a pub (one of those fern bars that CAMRA's Guide to Good Beer
complains about ;-) we asked the bartender what he recommended, and he said
"So you want to play with the big boys huh?" and poured us Bishops Tipple at
about 7.5% alcohol, thinking we wanted to get drunk quickly :-/. That stuff
was TOO strong. Had a nice spicy hoppiness to it at first, with good malt body,
but the aftertaste reminded me of cheap whiskey. Just too much.

Anyway, did you get to try some Foilenfoel ("feelin' fowl") from Wales over
there ? GREAT brew!

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 10:15:30 EDT
From: "Jack D. Hill" <jdhill@BBN.COM>
Subject: re: Le Garde


Le Garde (not En Garde) is brewed in White River Junction Vermont. I
think it is contract brewed by WRJ (the same people who make Catamount) for
another company. The stuff is fairly readily available in most respectable (and
a few not so respectable) liquor stores in Massachusetts. I love French Biere
de Garde and although Le Garde is very good, it doesn't quite hit the mark. Le
Garde has that big, robust malty taste but it is not as smooth as the French.
Also, the faint sourness that wonderfully balances off the malt isn't there.
Still, this beer is definitely worth searching out. An interesting note, the
people who make Le Garde also import St. Leonard, a wonderful biere de garde
from France. They were at the last Brewers Offering (a beer tasting sponsored
by public radio station WBUR) in Boston.

Jack

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 10:30:38 EDT
From: "Darren L. Ward" (FSAC-FCD) <dward@PICA.ARMY.MIL>
Subject: Apple Flavor?

I recently sampled my first attempt at "homebrew". I used a "Continental Light"
recipe, and after waiting four weeks for the "aging", I was alittle disappointed in that
there was very little "head"/carbonation, and a definate apple-like aftertaste. Is it

possible that the beer merely requires more time to age, which might produce more
carbonation and concurrently remove the sweet apple-like aftertaste? Does aging temperature
have a significant effect on the end product?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 9:35:49 EDT
From: gozer!klm@uunet.UU.NET (Kevin L. McBride)
Subject: Opportunism on the HBD (a mild flame)

What Opportunism is NOT:

Mike Sharp offering his services as middle man to buy yeast
culturing equipment in bulk so that we may all benefit.

What Opportunism IS:

Another person using us as a free information resource to produce
a commercial product of (IMHO) questionable merit and then having
the gall to post a commercial offering it for sale in a strictly
non-commercial forum.

To the person who did this, and you know who you are:

Please don't do it again.

To everyone else on the HBD:

I apologize for the flame but I know that some of you feel the same way.
To counteract this, my next article will be my most recent "Best Beer."

- --
Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 07:59:14 -0700
From: darryl@ism.isc.com (Darryl Richman)
Subject: ice chest lauter tun

> Those of you who sparge all at once in a big cooler, do you use a rectangular
> cooler or a cylindrical one? How did you cut the slots in the copper tubing?

I've got an 80 quart Coleman rectangular cooler. I've made 5 gallon batches
in it that turned out just fine, although I must admit that I was prestty
concerned that 8 lbs. of grain was not going to make a sufficiently deep
bed to lauter correctly. I cut all of the slots in about 10 feet of tubing
with a hack saw. (That's me, just an old hack.) Another brewer round here
used a saws-all and ended up with a very professional looking job, with
about twice as many cuts as I made...

--Darryl Richman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 10:37:04 EDT
From: gozer!klm@uunet.UU.NET (Kevin L. McBride)
Subject: Best Beer

My wife bought me a kegging system from Foxx for my birthday back in
August and I've been producing beer like crazy ever since.

This hyperactivity has resulted in one of the best beers I've made in
my 4 years of brewing and it's an extract recipe.

No, it's not 100% true to style, but I don't really care because it
was a damn good beer and it was quick and easy to make.

"Brew Free or IPA" India Pale Ale

4 lbs. Munton and Fison light DME
4 lbs. Geordie amber DME
1 lb. crushed Crystal Malt

1.5 oz. Cascade leaf hops (boil 60 minutes)
1.5 oz. Cascade leaf hops (finishing)

Wyeast #1056 Chico Ale Yeast (1 quart starter made 2 days prior)

O.G.: No idea (I didn't check), but I'd WAG it to be about 1.055
F.G.: 1.012

Add the crystal malt to cold water and apply heat. simmer for 15
minutes or so then sparge into boiling kettle. Add DME, top up kettle
and bring to boil.

When boil starts, add boiling hops and boil for 60 minutes.

10 minutes before end of boil I added 1 tsp. of Irish Moss.

When boil is complete, remove heat, add finishing hops and immediately
begin chilling wort.

Strain wort into fermenter and pitch yeast starter.

Primary fermentation took about 4 days. I let the beer settle for
another 2 days and then racked into a sanitized, primed (1/3 cup
boiled corn sugar solution) and oxygen purged keg and applied some CO2
blanket pressure.

After one week in the keg the beer was clear, carbonated, and very
drinkable although it had a very noticeable alcoholic nose.

After 2 weeks the beer was incredibly smooth, bitter, and wonderfully
aromatic. Several friends raved about this beer including one who
lived in England for a while said that this was one of the best IPAs
he's ever had and definitely the best homebrew he's ever had.

After 2.5 weeks it was all gone because we drank the whole thing.

- --
Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 08:06:38 CDT
From: lutzen@phys1.physics.umr.edu (lutzen)
Subject: Greetings one and all...


Three topics today:

First off, I was bothered by the add for the homebrewing video. True, Jack was
giving us a price break and he surely wouldn't be make much money from a price
of $12.95, or whatever it was. It bothered me because it was a misuse of this
wonderful digest. But then again, isn't this message a bit off the topic of
homebrewing?

Second, many thanks to all the people for submitting new recipes. With all
of the recent submissions, there are almost enough recipes for Mark Stevens
and I to start on "The Cat's Meow, Vol. 2". Keep sending in the recipes,
because we want Vol. 2 to be a winner. Right now we are just compiling, but
if there are any suggestions for us please e-mail me at the address below.
But please, please, please, do not send me any "Send me a copy when it is
ready" requests. All such mail will be appended to /dev/null. (I have enough
to do without keeping track of these requests.)

Third, I am setting up an FTP account if you care to do direct submissions,
get copies of "The Cat's Meow", or whatever (related to homebrew PLEASE).
The address of the machine in which to FTP to is: 131.151.23.29. Currently
I am testing it and so far so good. But please be warned that this connection
is going to unavailable on Friday of this week. (Have some other network
rewiring to do). This will be an anonymous FTP account, so have fun...

Karl Lutzen lutzen@apollo.physics.umr.edu
Physics Dept. lutzen@olson.physics.umr.edu
University of Missouri - Rolla 314-341-6317


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Oct 91 11:09:40 -0400
From: gonzalez@BBN.COM
Subject: Re: Papazian Book-Signing in Boston


Kevin McBride discreetly mentioned that I had neglected to include the
date of the book-signing. It is to take place on October 26th. Sorry
about that.

I'm undecided about attending the dinner. I've included the text of the
description to help others to decide for themselves.

-Jim.

Begin excerpt --------------------------------------------------------

Ruggiero to Host Dinner in Papazian's Honor

Later that evening, David Ruggiero, reknowned beer judge and
proprietor of BM&V will host a dinner and beer tasting in
Papazian's honor at the Boston Fencing Club in Watertown, MA.
A large selection of locally brewed commercial beers, as well
as some choice imports will be served with a buffet dinner
who's dishes have been prepared with beer.

Later that evening Papazian will provide his insight into six
home brewed beers prepared especially for the occasion by local
brewers.

Copies of _The_Complete_Joy_of_Homebrewing_ may be reserved by
contacting BM&V. Tickets to the dinner may be obtained at
Barleymalt and Vine or by calling (508) 820-3392. Seating is
limited so order early!

End excerpt ----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 08:30:37 -0700
From: darryl@ism.isc.com (Darryl Richman)
Subject: re: A Few Brew Questions

> What is the production limit for an individual in Pennsylvania?

The feds limit individuals to 100 gallons a year; households with two
or more adults to 200 gallons. A gallon of beer is roughly 10 12 oz.
bottles. The individual states may have their own regulations. There
are still a few that make homebrewing illegal, although the
conventional wisdom is that if you don't flaunt it, nobody will
notice. I believe (but have no proof) that Pennsylvania doesn't have
any such nonsense.

> Can more than one individual pool funds to purchase production
> apparatus, and then combine their individual limits?

An interesting question, but I've not heard of the test case being
decided. Once again, let me urge you not to lose sleep over this,
unless you're offering your beer to the neighborhood children.

> To what extent is the sale of the ingredients regulated, and is the
> purchase of raw ingredients considered the same as purchasing alcohol
> under the law?

The ingredients are natural foodstuffs. There are no limitations on
the purchase of barley malt (it's a common ingredient in cereals and
baking), hops (the flowers of a trailing vine) or yeast. The
government has more interest when you put them together and they create
ethanol, especially if you try to sell it.

For that matter, although the BATF may disagree, the product is a
natural foodstuff. There is a theory gaining credence among
archaeologists that beer is responsible for civilization. It's not
uncommon in other lands for the population to obtain a significant
amount of its nutrition from beer: lots of energy is available from
ethanol and carbohydrates, the water content is pure, the yeast add a
significant amount of vitamin B, and hops add a small amount of vitamin
C.

> After the initial capital outlay, about how much does beer cost, per
> gallon?

If you make it from scratch, as I do, your cost can be under 7c a
bottle. If you buy extracts (where the mashing step has been done for
you), the cost goes up significantly. I think it could be as much as
40c. Of course, these numbers reflect the cost of ingredients,
excluding water and gas or electricity costs (which can be significant)
and your time.

> Where can I find out about how to start brewing?

Get a book or two. I'd recommend "The Complete Handbook of
Homebrewing" by Dave Miller (ISBN 0-88266-517-0) if you're a techie
and/or "The Complete Joy of Home Brewing" by Charlie Papazian. There's
a new edition of the latter just released. Sorry I don't have the
ISBN, my copy is loaned out at the moment. But you can order either
direct from the AHA at (303) 447-0816.

Another thing to do is join a club. This is probably better than
reading a book. You'll get to taste others' beers and probably see a
variety of brewing set ups.

--Darryl Richman


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 11:31:25 EDT
From: "John Reed in Waltham, MA" <johnreed@BOSTON.vnet.ibm.com>
Subject: Kid Stuff

Does anyone remember Colt 45 Malt Liquor? I remember it from my younger
days and am now hard-pressed to categorize it. Not that I would want to
brew any, mind you...but I am indeed curious....How does one distinguish
malt liquor from beer? Are there adjuncts? Is it an ale? A lager? Neither?
S.G.? Does anybody care? Should I care or should I just RDWHAHB?


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 11:21:20 EDT
From: eisen@kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West)
Subject: red thing on top

John,
I managed to lose one of my red things, and found that a plastic cap
from a soda bottle does the job of keeping ngucch out of the airtrap just
fine, and it is less likely to act as a stopper.


Carl


------------------------------

Date: 8 Oct 91 08:45:02
From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment@rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU>
Subject: RE- Shameless ad's...

Subject: RE: Shameless ad's... Time:8:38 AM Date:10/8/91
I agree that we ought to request commercial "blurbs" to limit themselves to
minimal space. In general I'd prefer not to see advertising in the Digest
unless there is some special offer to Digest readers. In your case Jack, the
ending offer to the HD readers with about 10% of the discriptive text would
have been better. Perhaps a short announcement of products and/or services,
followed by "for more information contact (E-mail address, phone #, etc...)"
would allow free enterprise to continue without increasing the S/N ratio too
much.

RW...

Russ Wigglesworth CI$: 72300,61
|~~| UCSF Medical Center Internet: Rad Equipment@RadMac1.ucsf.edu
|HB|\ Dept. of Radiology, Rm. C-324 Voice: 415-476-3668 / 474-8126 (H)
|__|/ San Francisco, CA 94143-0628


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Oct 91 09:04:26 -0700
From: night@mapme7.map.tek.com
Subject: My best recipe...


Okay brewmeisters and beginners... here is my best recipe, by far!...

Nightingale DoppleBock

7# Light Scottish Malt Extract
1# Dry Dark Malt Extract
1.5# 80L Crystal Malt
6 oz. Chocolate Malt
2 oz. Black Patent Malt
8 oz. Dextrin Malt
1/4 tsp. brewing salts
2 oz. Perle Hops (bittering) alpha=7.6%
1 oz. Hallertauer Hops (aromatic) alpha=3.9%
1/2 tsp. Gypsum
2 packets of Redstar Lager yeast
2/3 cup corn sugar for priming
Water to 5 gallons

Mash crushed Crystal and Dextrin Malts in a pan of water at 150F for 1 hour.
Strain through collander into main kettle and sparged with 150F water
until it runs clear.
Add enough water to kettle to dissolve extracts (~3 gal.)
Dissolve extracts, salt and gypsum into kettle and bring to a ROLLING boil.
Stir in 1/2 oz. Perle Hops and boil 15 min.
Stir in 1 oz. Perle Hops and boil 15 min.
Stir in Chocolate and Black Patent Malts (UNCRUSHED!) and boil 15 min.
Stir in 1/2 oz. Perle Hops and boil 15 min.
Add Hallertaur Hops in the last minute of the boil.

Strain though a nylon meshed colander into Primary fermentor.
Top up to 5 gallons with cold water. Cool wort as fast as possible.
(I cooled it to 80F in 9 minutes.)
At 80F add yeast. (I put the dry yeast into a 1/2 cup of 95F water and let it
sit for 6 min. first)
My O.G. was 1.060
I placed the Primary in my garage surrounded by other containers of water to
keep the temperature more constant.
It brewed in the primary for 12 days at 40-48F.
I then racked it into the secondary and let it sit and ferment VERY slowly
for 1 month. (Temp ranged between 32F and 40F) (Visible fermentation stopped
after only 10 days in the secondary.)

I then racked it again into my primary. Boiled 2 cups of water with 2/3 cup
of corn sugar and added. When bottling, top bottles to within 1/2" of top.

I then lagered for a full month at 34F.
The final gravity was 1.025.

This brew is not quite as strong as a traditional Dopplebock. However,
the resulting beer was none less than excellent. It had a good shot of malt
flavor (esp. the chocolate!). The head quite creamy. The hopping was perfectly
balanced. It is the smoothest homebrew I've ever had.

I would love to tell you a brew that it compares to... but I can't. All of
the Dopplebocks I've tasted are German varieties which are much higher in
alcohol than this... It seems that we on the West Coast have a severe lack
of good Lager breweries. The abundance of lager microbreweries are on the
east coast. Thus... I make my own dopplebocks!


Enjoy!!!!!!

Mark Nightingale night@tekig7.MAP.TEK.COM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 09:29:42 PDT
From: neilson@mprgate.mpr.ca (Robert Neilson)
Subject: Request for digest

Could you include me on the distribution for the homebrew digest?

Thanks
Rob

=======================================================================
Robert J. Neilson Voice: (604) 293-5414
MPR Teltech Ltd. FAX: (604) 293-5787
8999 Nelson Way, Internet: neilson@mprgate.mpr.ca
Burnaby, BC, Canada, V5A 4B5 uunet!ubc-cs!mprgate!neilson
=======================================================================


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 11:36:00 CDT
From: bliss@csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: Chimay yeast


a month or so ago, someone in HBD land described how they had
cultured chimay yeast by using an agar plate, and individually
culturing several different colonies, and using those which
produced sweet wort. I would like to get in touch with this
individual, but unfortunately, I wiped out my mbox about 2 weeks
ago.

- --------------------------

As for those little red things that go on the end of the siphon:

Forget gettting them in different sizes - where can I get them
at all? (without having to buy the whole siphon) I have at
least 3 siphons laying around, and have lost all but one of
the little red things.

bb


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 13:53:45 EDT
From: larry@evi.com (Larry McCaig)
Subject: Shameless commercials


In response to Greg Roody,

> Shameless ad's - this is too much
> Can I call for a vote on how many people found the ad for Jacks video to be
> too commercial for the purposes of this file?

When I saw the advertisement from "ARF", I was appalled. This digest is
absolutely not the place for advertising. I can't stand it on the telly, and
will have to remove myself from the digest it it starts to become common here.
I believe that this is the first 'commercial' I have seen since I have been
receiving the Digest, I hope it's the last. Jack should be ashamed of
himself!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1991 14:12:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Peter Glen Berger <pb1p+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Great Stout!


Ok. My recipe rules after 2 weeks, and is tasting better every day.

Thanks to all who helped. Here it is:

"Bitch's Brew" Oatmeal Stout:

6 lbs. dark dry malt extract
2 lbs. amber dry malt extract
1 lb. crystal malt, cracked
.75 lb. roasted barley, cracked
.50 lb. black patent malt, cracked
2 oz. Bullions hops (boiling)
.5 oz Willammette hope (finishing)
2 cups Quaker Oats
2 pkgs. Whitbread Ale Yeast

Steep the Oats, and the cracked grains for 1/2 hr in cold water.
Heat mixture and remove grains as boil is reached. Throw in malts and
make your wort. NOTE: We were using a 5 gallon brewkettle and had to
tend it for 15 minutes; the hot break is VERY assertive and hangs out
for quit a long time. Boil Bullions for 45 minutes, Willammette for
5-7 minutes. Have fun. Starting SG: 1.052 Finishing: 1.019

Comments: I would cut back on the finishing hops, or boil them
longer; the aroma was too assertive, although it is mellowing a bit
now (after 2 weeks in the bottle). I would also change the proportion
of malts to 4 lbs. LIGHT and 3 lbs. dark; there's enough color and
lighter malt will yield more alcohol. Also, probably only 1 package
of good yeast is needed for this mixture, I just got paranoid over my
last stuck fermentation.

I was very sparing on the oatmeal due to their oily character; if you
put in much more, you'll lose the head entirely.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pete Berger || ARPA: peterb@cs.cmu.edu
Professional Student || Pete.Berger@andrew.cmu.edu
Univ. Pittsburgh School of Law || BITNET: R746PB1P@CMCCVB
Attend this school, not CMU || UUCP: ...!harvard!andrew.cmu.edu!pb1p
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Goldilocks is about property rights. Little Red Riding Hood is a tale
of seduction, rape, murder, and cannibalism." -Bernard J. Hibbits
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------



------------------------------

Date: 8 Oct 91 14:25:00 EDT
From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet@drcvax.af.mil>
Subject: Ads on the digest.

I rather enjoyed Jack's ad for his video, and thought it downright decent
of him to offer it to digest readers at a low price. I do not object to
beer related advertising on the digest so long as it is obviously an ad and
not an ad hidden as information.

How many of you would read Zymurgy and skip all of the advertising? I
didn't think so. I, too, like the high concentration of good material
here, and wouldn't want things to get out of hand, but they haven't in the
past, and I don't think we need to address a non-problem.

When a person is in business for himself / herself, they need to take
advantage of all opportunities to sell. I see no harm in Jack's mentioning
of his new product here. Now, if he sold patio furniture, and advertised
it here, I'd object, because it wasn't directly beer or brewing related.

Again, let's not make a giant blowoff over a few bubbles in the airlock.

Dan Graham,
Beer made with the Derry air.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 11:58:40 PDT
From: grumpy!cr@uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley)
Subject: Staleness Date


From: krweiss@ucdavis.edu

>Samuel Adams Boston Lager and Ale are widely available in California (in
>Sacramento, at least). The bottles are tagged with an un-encrypted
>freshness date, and I've yet to see a bottle on sale past the recommended
>consumption date. I've got no idea how liberal the brewery is with regard
>to the shelf life...

I recently had a a bottle of SA Oktoberfest. The staleness date was March
'92. I was with two professional brewers at the time who were both surprised
that SA was willing to keep their beer on the shelf for at least 6 months.

CR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 12:10:45 PDT
From: grumpy!cr@uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley)
Subject: Anker Beer


From: GARY MASON

>I am not certain about the origins of the name for Fritz Maytag's place, but
>there is an Anchor Brewery in Salisbury, Wiltshire, England. It brews under
>the name of Gibbs Mew PLC. I did not have a chance to sample them this trip
>(next time!), but they have several bitters and a barley wine in their suite.
>Just looking at the place makes me think it may be older than the US version.

The Anchor Brewery was founded in 1896 in SF. Don't know where they got the
name. Fritz didn't get involved till '65.

There is also a brewery in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia that produces a beer called
Anker. Pronunciation and meaning are the same as our version, and the logo
is somewhat similar, but the similarity stops there. Like most beers in that
part of the world, Anker is a pale yellow fizzy thirst quencher. It tasted
like it was made with rice, which is a common practice throughout SE Asia.

CR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1991 15:24:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: R_GELINAS@UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas)
Subject: SA holiday brew

I heard from the local Sam Adams salesmen that SA is working on a
cranberry lambic (!), which would unlikely be a real lambic. My guess is
that we'll see it around Thanksgiving. No word on a winter warmer, but
that'll probably happen too.
I didn't notice the label change with SA Boston/Stock Ale, but it does
seem that they've cut way down on the hops, so now it's only *really*
hoppy. Anyone else notice it?

Russ (Wall Drug? Who said Wall drug? Ice water, anyone?)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 12:45:03 PDT
From: Greg Roody - dtn 237-7122 <roody@necsc.enet.dec.com>
Subject: The votes are in, & we have a new Unit of Measure.... the SmU

Well, the results are in and unanimous. Out of the thousands who responded
(well, ok, it was only three or four, but they all said the same thing)
nobody wanted to see advertising in the HBD.

As a side note, we did establish a new unit for homebrew ratings: the
Schmidling Unit (SmU). This unit will vary inversely to the Quality; as the
quality goes down, the Schmidling goes up.

But be careful, this is a powerful unit; a slight chill haze would be measured
in pico-Schmidlings, oxidation would be milli-Schmidlings, and full fledged
infections (lacto, coloform, salmonella, etc) would be full Schmidling defects;
9 SmU's will blind you and 10 SmU's will kill you.

So, there you have it. Happy Schmidling.

/greg (oh it's so kind to be cruel)
(it's not often you get to ridicule shameless Madison ave types)


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 13:01 PDT
From: Bob_Konigsberg@3mail.3com.com
Subject: Brown Ale

I'd like some advice on a Brown Ale a friend and I have been making.
What I'm specifically looking for is what would provide the "nutty"
character (a la Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale). This is an extract brew
based on the following recipe for 10 gallons
6# light liquid extract
6# dark liquid extract
2# Medium Crystal Malt
8oz Black Patent Malt
12 AAUs per 5 gallons (24) Cascade boiling hops
2 oz Kent Goldings finishing hops
4 oz French Oak Chips

The French Oak chips seem to have been a stumbling block so far, in that
boiling them (as the original recipe said to) produced an unpleasant
aftertaste. We've done 4 batches so far, and the two in which the oak
chips were boiled were flawed. One batch we forgot to add them, and one
batch we added them late with the finishing hops so that the chips did
not get boiled. The latter two were pretty good, but none of the
batches have the nutty character of Samuel Smiths.

To answer someone's question on food grade plastic: I called the
Rubbermaid company's 800 number and found that all of their food grade
containers are tested with acid foods (organic acids), alkalies, strong
oxidizers (inorganic acid, chlorine?), and are measured for weight loss
(which would indicate seepage into the food), deformity, discoloration
etc. I'm waiting on further information, so I will post it if I get
anything else.

BobK


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1991 16:08 EST
From: STROUD%GAIA@leia.polaroid.com
Subject: Papazian coming to Boston

Here is an item that New England homebrewers in the Boston area may be
interested in:

To help celebrate the opening of their new store, Barleymalt & Vine has
arranged for Charlie Papazian, the guru of homebrew, to come to town on
Saturday, October 26th for a booksigning with a homebrew tasting and beer
dinner to follow.

To quote from BM & V's press release:

'Papazian will appear at the newest branch of Barleymalt & Vine on Route 9 in
Framingham, MA where he will be from 10 to 2. At 2:30 Papazian will
travel to Barleymalt & Vine's store in West Roxbury where he will stay until
6pm. Later that evening Dave Ruggiero (BM & V's owner) will host a dinner
and beer tasting in Papazian's honor at the Boston Fencing Club in Watertown.
A large selection of locally brewed commercial beer as well as some choice
imports will be served with a buffet dinner whose dishes have been prepared
with beer. Later that evening Papazian will provide his insights into 6
homebrewed beers prepared especially for the occasion by local brewers. A
signed copy of the new edition of Papazian's 'Complete Joy of Homebrewing'
may be reserved by contacting Barleymalt & Vine. Tickets to the dinner may be
obtained at one of the Barleymalt & Vine locations or by calling
(508) 820-3392. Seating is limited so order early!'

I talked to Dave today and here are some more details:

Charlie will be signing copies of his new book at the two stores and just
talking it up with other homebrewers if you'd like to tip a few with him and
ask him some questions.

The dinner will start at 7 pm and is being catered by Prince St. Caterers.
Paul Correnty (cider maker, professional chef, and Wort Processor) will be
assisting in the menu planning. Cost for the dinner is $30 ($37 if you'd like
dinner and a signed copy of the book, that's $3 off the regular price of the
book).

Pre-registration for the dinner is required and seating is limited. If you're
interested, call NOW!


Steve Stroud

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1991 15:55 EST
From: STROUD%GAIA@leia.polaroid.com
Subject: papazian coming to Boston



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Oct 91 16:54:18 EDT
From: palladin@muscle.trincoll.edu
Subject: Requests for Brewpub Info.

Dear Net Readers:

How do we handle requests like:

I am travelling to XYZ and I want to know where the brewpubs are...

death?

I thought there was a compiled list on mthvax.miami.edu but couldn't find it.
My particular XYZ is Seattle and Pullman Washington (hint hint). I
would appreciate any direct mailings:

palladin@muscle.trincoll.edu

Thanks in advance,

Joe P.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 13:59:01 PDT
From: Martin A. Lodahl <hpfcmr.fc.hp.com!hplabs!pbmoss!malodah>
Subject: Fave Recipe, Adverts

My favorite recipe? Why, the one that's in the fermentor now, of
course! It's a really great Scottish ale, with some of the malt
smoked over a peat fire, and a new type of water treatment that'll
get rid of the astringency this time for sure, and ...

But here's my second favorite:

_Trappiste_

Ingredients - 7 lbs domestic 2-row pale malted barley
4 lbs Munich malt
8 oz wheat malt
1.5 oz chocolate malt
1 lb dark brown sugar (in boil)
Bittering hops: 1 oz Chinook (10.8% AA)
Finish hops: 0.5 oz Tettnanger (4.7%),
0.5 oz Hallertauer (2.8%),
0.5 oz Kent Goldings (5.2%)
Priming: 1 cup light dry malt extract

Process - Mash water: 14 qts @ 135F
Mash-in: 3 min @ 131F, pH 5.3
Protein rest: 30 min @ 131-28F
Conversion: 2 hrs @ 150-141F
Mash-out: 5 min @ 168F
Sparge: 5.5 gallons @ 168-165F, pH 5.7
Boil: 120 minutes, adding bittering hops @ 60 min
and finish hops at end

OG: 1.078 TG: 1.013

As students of Dave Miller will recognize, this recipe doesn't
differ from his in any important detail. The most critical parts are
the hops and the yeast. The only substantive change I'd make to the
hopping is to dry-hop rather than finish-hop, using the same
quantities of the same varieties. The yeast was cultured from a
bottle of Chimay Rouge. After three weeks of fascinating
fermentation, a strong beer was produced that was intriguingly
complex and true to type. After a few months in the bottle it
acquired a strong banana-ester component in the nose that priming
with corn sugar rather than DME might have ameliorated. It was
fermented in a 25L carboy, then racked to a 5 gallon carboy for 5
days of clarification, then bottled. Good stuff, IMHO.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

My $0.02 on the subject of advertising in HBD: Overall, it's been a
rare sight, and until Jack's video ad, had always been a tasteful
offering of something of unquestionable immediate interest to the
HBD community. The only examples I can immediately recall were Mike
Sharp's lambic cultures and culturing equipment, Kinney Baughman's
almost reluctant admission that there is a company named BrewCo
selling brewing equipment, a couple of folks offering yeast cultures,
and, of course, a few beer festivals and contests. I'd hate to see
us throw away a useful aspect of the forum in reaction to the
crassness of a single posting. I support Greg Roody's suggestion of
a (voluntary) length limit for commercial messages, but feel that
the polling should be done off-line, and the results forwarded to
Our Benefactor and Moderator, the ever-elusive Rob Gardner, as a
sampling of group sentiment. Just One Man's Opinion ...

= Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Systems Analyst =
= malodah@pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) =


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 91 08:37:34 BST
From: Ifor Williams <ifor@computer-science.manchester.ac.uk>
Subject: Oxidising Wort


I've recently read Dave Millers Complete Handbook of Home Brewing and
was left with the impression that I'm not careful enough with the
wort! For example, Miller recommends that the boiled wort should be
cooled with an immersion chiller before being poured into the hopback
so as to minimise oxidation. Similarly, he recommends taking care
during sparging to avoid oxidation.

This leads to my question - if the wort oxidises so easily, does it
not oxidise during a long open boil? If not, why not? If so, is the
oxidation not much more significant that can be expected during the
other brewing stages?

What am I missing?

Ifor.


------------------------------


End of HOMEBREW Digest #741, 10/09/91
*************************************
-------

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