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HOMEBREW Digest #0750
This file received at Mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU 91/10/29 03:08:33
HOMEBREW Digest #750 Tue 29 October 1991
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Hard Cider Digest (Robin Garr)
welding stainless (Tom Dimock)
Re- EASYMASH (Bob Hettmansperger)
Re: EASYMASH
test (Brian Bliss)
HB Digest (John Bergquist)
Taps ????? (Art Hebert)
brazing $tainless $teel (Carl West)
Miller's book (night)
Oxidation? Wanna know what it tastes like. (Greg Roody - DTN 237-7122 - MaBell 508-841-7122 28-Oct-1991 1132)
Darker during fermentation??? (Norm Pyle)
STUFF (Jack Schmidling)
Bass Ale (Ron Ezetta)
Beginning Brewer of Mead (Jason Bogal)
ref recent glass v. plastic discussion (Chip Hitchcock)
Wyeast in the refrigerator (Chip Hitchcock)
Where to get a deal on carboys in Chicago? (Jacob Galley)
Re: Homebrew Digest #746 (October 23, 1991) ("Dave, Dave, with the cool, clean shave")
Xmas ale recipe (Phoebe Couch)
Grapes in beer.. (night)
Wyeast Bavarian - No Head Starter (Brian Schuth)
WYeast Bavarian Wheat--No Head Starter
Naked Ambition (Jeff Frane)
cinnamon vs. head (krweiss)
Blanche de les Nieges (Brian Capouch)
Send submissions to homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues!]
Archives are available from netlib@mthvax.cs.miami.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 28 Oct 91 08:39:44 EST
From: Robin Garr <76702.764@compuserve.com>
Subject: Hard Cider Digest
Jeff Frane <70670.2067@compuserve.com> asks:
>I've also noticed a couple of unanswered questions about cider in
>recent Digests. Isn't there a Cider Digest? Seems to me that they
>are (or were) being stored in the CompuServe Beer Forum library,
>but that they originated somewhere on this network. Robin? Got an
>answer?
Jeff, yup! Our buddy Jay Hersh <hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu> moderates the
Hard Cider Digest, which is up to No. 52, I believe. And yup again, we
archive them in .ARC form in the CompuServe Wine/Beer Forum library.
Since most of the posts are short, I generally hold them until I have
five or 10 and then upload them as a single consolidated file. Look for
filenames in the form HCDnnn.ARC, where nnn is the number of the latest
digest in the batch. Or, of course, you can have it sent to you directly.
Jay is a regular participant here, and he may well have already responded
to you with the details.
Robin Garr
Associate Sysop, CompuServe Wine/Beer Forum
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 08:20:57 EST
From: Tom Dimock <RGG@CORNELLC.cit.cornell.edu>
Subject: welding stainless
The learning curve for stainless isn't bad IF you have the right
equipment, which very few people have. The right equipment is a
TIG or MIG welder, which are high frequency arc welders which keep
the arc submerged in a flow of inert gas (usually argon), use a
tungsten electrode (Tungsten Inert Gas -> TIG). The filler rod
is fed into the arc by hand or by wire feed. There are persistant
stories that people who use this equipment have health problems,
but I don't know too much about that. Trying to weld stainless
with an oxyacetylene torch will just get you very frustrated.
Find a pro welder to do it for you or sign up for the advanced
welding course in your local night school and learn to use their
TIG welder.
Yes, I have done it, and yes, I own a TIG welder. Unfortunately
I don't have the argon tank or flow meter for it, so I still
get my stainless work done by the guy who sold me the welder.
He accepts (actually prefers) payment in his favorite beer -
Genesee Cream Ale....
------------------------------
Date: 28 Oct 91 10:19:38
From: Bob Hettmansperger <Bob_Hettmansperger@klondike.bellcore.com>
Subject: Re- EASYMASH
Subject: Re: EASYMASH
> the budget of most hobbiest, I decided to base the system abound the old
> enameled 8 gal kettle that grandma used for canning.
^^^^^^^
Yes ladies and gentlemen...a grandmomily.
In all seriousness, I'd really be interested in a beginners guide to all grain
brewing (with or without momilies). I'm getting to the point where I'd like to
try, but havn't been able to get my act together yet.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 09:33:46 CST
From: bliss@csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: test
I've been unable to post anything for 2 weeks, and
am trying out a different mail address.
bb
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 09:52:56 CST
From: jeb@sequoia.cray.com (John Bergquist)
Subject: HB Digest
Please remove my name from the Homebrew Digest mailing list.
Thanks,
John Bergquist
jeb@sequoia.cray.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 07:55:59 PST
From: Art.Hebert@EBay.Sun.COM (Art Hebert)
Subject: Taps ?????
Hello -- I just bought a 5 gallon cornelius keg and since I already
has a small kenmore fridge and co2 tank I have a few questions.
1) the fridge I have has a small freezer compartment internal to
the fridge and I was wondering if I can remove this? It looks
like it provides the cooling for the rest of the fridge.
does anyone have a setup like this?
2) also what kind of tap should I get? i have heard mention of
some that aerate the beer. Does anyone make a tap that would
mount on top of the fridge so I could set my beer mug under
the tap?
3) also what steps should I follow to keg my first ale?
Thanks
art hebert
arth@sudshead.EBay.Sun.COM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 11:06:20 EST
From: eisen@kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West)
Subject: brazing $tainless $teel
I have done a little bit of brazing $tainless, what has given me
greatest success was using borax as a flux. Heat the metal and the
brazing rod to a dull red, dip in, or sprinkle on, a liberal amount
of borax (available in the laundry aisle of the supermarket) melt the
borax into place, heat the metal to orange-red and flow the brass into
the joint, it's very much like lead soldering, just hotter.
Welding SS requires either special rods for oxy-acetylene
or a MIG or TIG welder.
G'Luck
Carl West
WISL,BM.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 09:37:22 -0800
From: night@mapme7.map.tek.com
Subject: Miller's book
Hello one and all,
In the past few digests I have noticed several people slaying David Miller's
book TCHOHB. Specifically, that it was no good for beginners. It was stated
several times that he recommends a beginner to brew a light lager as their
first brew.
HOGWASH! You might pull out you book and refresh your memory...
Let me quote:
Dave Miller, TCHOHB page 9. Before the first recipe:
"If you are not sure what style of beer you want to brew, I would urge you
to choose one of the other recipes in this chapter. They are British ales
with much heartier flavor than American lager, and for this reason are
easier to brew successfully. The strong flavor and aroma mask many small
defects that would be apparent in a light lager. In addition, the higher
fermentation temperatures are usually easier to manage. Finally, you can
be looser about making substitutions in these recipes."
Now, that doesn't sound like he's pushing light lagers on beginners to me...
Ahhh, and now in his other book:
Dave Miller, Home Brewing for Americans, page 31.
"I recommend trying something other than light lager for your first brew."
So, I would prefer that if people are going to do book comparisons...they
should at least get the facts straight and KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING
ABOUT... before instilling false statements about a good author into
beginner's heads.
Enough said...
Cheers!
Mark Nightingale night@tekig7.MAP.TEK.COM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 09:55:22 PST
From: Greg Roody - DTN 237-7122 - MaBell 508-841-7122 28-Oct-1991 1132 <roody@necsc.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Oxidation? Wanna know what it tastes like.
Just show up to a keg party a day late. One of my most vivid memories from
school is the taste of oxidized beer a day or two after a keg party. This
would happen only when a hand pump was used to dispense the beer (thus
forcing air in to force the beer out) and a partially empty keg was allowed
to sit with air in it.
Yumm yumm, nothing better than a two day old keg of "rusted" bud.....
/greg
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 10:18:29 MST
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Subject: Darker during fermentation???
Thanks to all who replied to this question. For those who care, it appeared
that my Apricot-Ginger Ale (Xmas brew) turned darker during fermentation. I
think RW explained it best: that it probably only appeared darker because
suspended yeast, etc. had fallen out (this stuff causes it to appear lighter
earlier in the life cycle). Curiosity got the best of me and I siphoned off
a glass-full; it was a beautiful amber-red color, not brown as I thought. To
summarize, I think I was fooled by yeast in suspension, a dark room, and a
couple too many HB's.
I bottled it and tasted it; the ginger is the prevailing flavor. The apricot
taste is very subtle, but this is why I brewed it now for Christmas. The
hope is that the ginger will mellow over time (as I've noticed finishing hops
seem to do) and this will be as good a brew as I tasted at Bo's Xmas of '89.
I'll probably taste-test once a week until then so I'll report back on it.
Thanks again.
Norm
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 10:06 CST
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: STUFF
mailx -s EASYMASH homebrew@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
To: Homebrew Digest
Fm: Jack Schmidling
From: rcd@raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn)
>Suggestion: DON'T say "applejack" unless you really mean it! You'll save
yourself a lot of grief and harangues on liquor laws and the dangers of
home distillation. Applejack is a distilled spirit--in effect, it's
distilled cider.
Wrong! It's distilled FERMENTED cider.
>Could we get this one straight? Oxidation leads to the cardboardy taste.
Cidery is something entirely different.....
It is really wounderful to have all such confusion made "straight" by a
simple declaration. Unfortunately, there seem to be a large number of
brewers who disagree with you. I don't happen to be one because I have
tasted neither in beer and am simply trying to learn something.
As a self-proclaimed authority on the subject, I wounder how much cardboard
you have tasted that gives you such strong credentials on the subject.
Presumably all cardboard does not taste the same so perhaps you would like to
suggest an industry standard so that we can all read from the same script.
Are we talking about, corregated or the stuff on the back of note pads? What
if it is coated? Is is recommended to eat a piece of bread between tasting?
Is a little salt helpful? Then of course, we will have to deal with the
problem that some folks might like "cardboardy" beer and want to know if it
would be better to mash cardboard instead of just splashing around to get
that real cardboard gusto.
Sorry, it's hard to quit that one.
From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment@rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU>
>To Jack Schmidling and his Oxidation test: You really ought to allow an
independent palate to taste the two brews side by side, blind. Not that I
doubt your ability to detect flaws. I just think that you get better feedback
from someone who has no attachment to the beer.
Any volunteers? I use Bud as the low limit and Baderbrau as the upper.
Anything in between is acceptable, if not necessarliy desirable. I am not
very sophisticated but I can not drink bad beer, even if I made it. As I
certainly have made bad beer on occasion, I know what lies beyond the lower
limit. I have, however never made beer that tastes like cider or cardboard.
>Still it will be interesting to hear how the remaining two bottles turn out.
Indeed.
>Are they stored at room temp or under refrigeration?
Room temp.
>What style of beer is this?
Nothing exotic. A can of John Bull amber and 10 cups amber dry.
Red Star yeast and hallertau hops. I can't grade it on any official scale
but it tastes about typical of the extract beer I have been making for 20
years. I would put it in the middle of my Bud to Baderbrau scale.
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu
>Jack could you please describe for us what you perceive are the
characteristics of oxidized beer?? I'm not convinced you know what it is.
You are asking the wrong person. I have been "oxidizing" my beer for years
and it was not untill people told me that it should taste "cidery or
cardboardy" that I started getting sensitive about it.
>I ask this in all seriousness because many people have "blind
spots" in their sensory perception, while others just don't know what to
look for in the flavor.
This is true but unless something is inherently distasteful, the rest is
totally subjective.
>As an example many people who drink light damaged beer come to consider it a
component of the flavor they desire. Since most if not all green and clear
bottled beers get light damaged (this can happen as fast as 45 minutes in
sunlight or artifical light like flourescents....
This thought occurred to me the other day as I was looking at a carboy
fermenting in front of a window. I wonder how many people carefully put
their beer in brown bottles but forget about the fermenter.
>The results of this test supposedly indicated that consumers selected the
stale beer as being what they considered the "normal" flavor for the beer and
the fresher beers were described as too bitter...
When you consider the wierd stuff people intentionally put in home brew, the
fact that the vast majority of Americans prefer Bud, along with the
subjective nature of taste, one can't help but wonder about the meaning of
"normal" flavor.
The reason people win awards for their beer is not because it "tastes better"
but because it fits into a set of previously agreed to rigid standards of
what "normal" beer should "taste" like. Can a million Frenchmen be wrong?
They don't even like beer. Can tens of millions of Americans be wrong? They
love Bud and given a comparison, most of them will still prefer it to
"normal" beer.
> Our findings have been that for various flavor defects people's ability to
taste specific defects varies, often quite widely with some not being able to
taste certain defects at all, and tohers being highly sensitive.
The same can be said for any skill. I do not, but one could take the
position that it sure seems stupid to spend so much effort and training to
learn how to not like something.
>I would state that your experiment, while it may prove successful in
demonstrating oxidation, may also demonstrate nothing for at least the above
reasons. Should your single experiment not show demonstrable oxidation I would
not deem it conclusive.
I never said it would be conslusive. I am not even defending the splashing
and foam in the video. I have changed my process and discuss it later in the
video. What I am trying to do is verify the allegations made about the
procedure with a simple experiment. If the intentionally rough treatment nor
my past twenty years experience produce something that I find objectionalble,
then I will be less concerned about minor infractions of the "proper"
procedure.
js
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 11:29:51 PST
From: Ron Ezetta <rone@badblues.wr.tek.com>
Subject: Bass Ale
A desire for Bass Pale Ale led me to the Cat's Meow. A recipe titled
"Bass Ale" (A big zero on the originality index) on page 25 is
as follows:
6 to 7 lbs pale malt (2-row)
1 lb crystal
1 pound demarara or dark brown sugar
1 ounce Northern Brewer (1 hour boil)
1 ounce Fuggles (boil 30 minutes)
1/2 ounce Fuggles (steeped 15 minutes)
ale yeast
Has anyone tried this potion?
I'm considering replacing the 1 pound of dark brown sugar with 2 ounces
of molasses - comments?
-Ron Ezetta-
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 14:42:14 EST
From: jasonb@coos.dartmouth.edu (Jason Bogal)
Subject: Beginning Brewer of Mead
I'm new to the brewing scene, and I was just introduced to mead.
I've brewed my first batch, which won't be ready for another two weeks, but
I am already afraid to taste it. The mold has something to do with that.
If there is anyone who would like to send me some advice, please do so.
If this was the wrong place for my message, then I apologize.
Jason Bogal
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 12:15:27 EST
From: cjh@diaspar.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Chip Hitchcock)
Subject: ref recent glass v. plastic discussion
You suggest -"going to plastic with good sanitation"-. The rap on
plastic is that it CANNOT be sanitized for more than a few use cycles;
after a while it \\will// scratch, and bacteria in the scratches are
extremely hard to kill. The plastic will also adsorb bleach and release it
into the wort, giving room for some unpleasant flavors which can be
perceived at extremely low levels---that's a Hobson's choice for you! This
suggests that anyone who uses a plastic fermenter should do only a small
number of batches before throwing it away (or downgrading it to a
bottle-soaking tub) and getting a new one.
Note that the figures for the 1989 Nationals showed that the incidence
of top (1st-3rd place) beers brewed in plastic was HALF their incidence at
entry; this brings up the question of what those results would have been
if they were subdivided by the age/#-of-uses of the plastic and the type of
beer (heavier beers being more likely to mask the off-flavors of traces of
infection or chlorine).
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 12:02:09 EST
From: cjh@vallance.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Chip Hitchcock)
Subject: Wyeast in the refrigerator
Jeff Frane <70670.2067@compuserve.com> writes
> If the package does swell completely
> within 12 hours, as Bill writes, the best thing to do--outside of
> adding it to a starter--is to pop the thing in the refrigerator
> until it's going to be used.
The yeast issue of ZYMURGY (what an oxymoronic-sounding line!) warns, as
have a few people on this list, that sudden temperature changes of >15-20 F
can stun yeast so badly it never recovers---it may not be technically dead
but it's not going to work very well. Based on other figures in this issue,
a starter is important for getting the best out of liquid yeast; at typical
yeast population densities, there's only room in the liquid provided for
~10% of the number of cells you'd like in a 5-gallon batch. Moving up to
a 2-cup starter, and perhaps leaving it at 65-70F instead of ~80F if you
can't be ready to brew soon, should be a win.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 15:38:32 CST
From: Jacob Galley <gal2@midway.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Where to get a deal on carboys in Chicago?
The best price I've seen in town so far is $20, which stinks. Anybody
out there know a better deal around here. Can you recommend a spring
water company that still uses glass bottles? Anyone in my area have an
extra carboy they're willing to sell?
Here is the address to complain to:
Jacob Galley, merely an undergraduate in The College
gal2@midway.uchicago.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1991 18:15 EST
From: "Dave, Dave, with the cool, clean shave" <SSJY@VAX5.CIT.CORNELL.EDU>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #746 (October 23, 1991)
Please remove my name from the homebrew mailing list. I have enjoyed it but
am running into problems because I have a limited disk quota here. I will
be having a friend forward me issues. Thanks Alot! Dave.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 12:55:15 PST
From: ithaca!amber!phoebe@uunet.UU.NET (Phoebe Couch)
Subject: Xmas ale recipe
Thanks everyone, for their great brewing ideas and recipes.
I had a party and everyone(50) liked this brew ( 1 month aging.)
It has a medium head, a pleasant hint of spices(not strong but very noticeable)
and smooth taste.
Recipe makes 4 gallons.
4 1/4 lb Austrialian light extract malt (liquid)
1/2 lb crystal malt
1/4 lb choc. malt
1/8 lb flaked barley
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 1/2 oz Northern brewer hops
1/2 cinnamon stick
1 whole clove
1 oz cascade (finishing)
Ale yeast.
All the grain into the boil,(I added the malts before
the water started to boil).
After it started to boil, add Northern brewer and spices.
After ~45 minutes, turn off burner, add the cascade.
After 20 minutes, filter into carboy.
clarify and bottle in a week.
I know that this isn't very precise instructions, but I don't
own a hydrometer yet.
To Jack Schmidling:
Great idea on your mashing technique. I am looking into
getting way from extracts.
Does anybody have a good mead lager recipe? I have only
seen mead ale recipes. Is there anything I should watch out for
with mead? I plan to do it in the basement this winter.
P.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 15:18:19 -0800
From: night@mapme7.map.tek.com
Subject: Grapes in beer..
Recently someone asked about using grapes in beer. Well, the other day I
happened upon a brew recipe that called for grapes!... I haven't tried it...
but it does sound interesting...
by M.R.Reese in Better Beer and How To Brew It.:
Champagne Beer
6 cups (3 pounds) light dried malt extract
4 cups (32 ounces) white grape juice
10 grams (1/3 oz.) pelletized Hallertaur hops
1 package lager beer yeast
1 1/4 cups corn sugar for priming
for 5 U.S. Gallons
Ferment at 55-65F
Boil hops with malt 25 minutes. Add white grape juice along with water
to make up 5 gallons. Ferment down to terminal gravity of 1.004 or below.
This recipe doesn't have much grape juice... but a little may do the trick.
I would bet that it will be somewhat like champaigne because of both the grapes
and the high priming sugar content.
Good luck... and Cheers!
Mark Nightingale night@tekig7.map.tek.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 15:56:32 PST
From: Brian Schuth <bschuth@igc.org>
Subject: Wyeast Bavarian - No Head Starter
Subject: WYeast Bavarian Wheat--No Head Starter
I'm new to the digest, so I hope this makes it without any complication...
I bought a package of WYeast's Bavarian Wheat yeast Sunday, intending
to brew on Tuesday, so I broke it immediately. *6 hours* later the
package threatened to burst, and I was out of extract, so I improvised
a "mini-mash" starter and pitched the yeast. Apart from a 30-45 minute
lag between boil and room temperature, my sanitation was up to
my usual standards.
Now, 24 hours later, my starter glugs away happily--but there is *no*
head or visible krausen. The sediment in the mini-mash extract is
goin' round and round, and the starter is definitely *active*,
but at a distance you couldn't tell it from any other cloudy golden
beverage. It smells okay, a little fruity and complex but no off
smells, just strong ale yeast smells. Anyone seen this before? Any
ideas? Thanks.
Brian Schuth
------------------------------
Date: 28 Oct 91 18:48:08 EST
From: Jeff Frane <70670.2067@compuserve.com>
Subject: Naked Ambition
To Jack Schmidling: The problem with enamel cookpots isn't just the handles
falling off--which I'd never heard of before discovering this crowd--but the
fact that enamel is crap, and quickly cracks through to the metal--which rusts.
The main problem with using the kitchen stove for brewing is damage to the
stove. Pots which overhang the burners or lap between two burners, reflect heat
downward onto the enamel surface of the stove--which seems to be very hard on
the enamel. (This is NOT a momily, this has been observed by these very eyes!)
This tends to p___ off the other stove users in the house. I have also been
warned off electric stove elements burning out during this process. You find
plenty of documentation elsewhere about the desirability of boils longer than
one hour, and I needn't go into them here. I think you should also do a little
reading about wort chillers; you seem to be under the misapprehension that it
has to do with "clearing", by which I presume you're referring to some form of
cold break. While this has its place, the real reason is to reduce the wort
temperature from boiling to pitching temperature so the yeast can start their
work quickly.
If I may say so, I feel that your desire to make brewing beer easy and
inexpensive is commendable, but it seems at times that you are more interested
in hastily debunking traditional brewing practices than in achieving this goal.
(Take note of someone like George Fix, who is applying real scientific
methodology to homebrewing.) Quick and easy isn't always the answer; sometimes
all you get is instant coffee.
And please note Dick Dunn's comment in re: oxidation and cardboard (not cider)
and the excellent commentary from Rad Equipment and JaH.
To Darrylnowinseattle: I noted your reference to the Roaster in the CIS beer
forum; didn't you find it a little pricey? O'course, coming from LA... Have you
yet made it to Big Time or the Trolleyman? Liz and I were planning on spending
last Monday in Seattle, visiting coffee roasters and Liberty Malt but instead
spent the whole day and $400 getting the car fixed in Monroe. Feh! Have you
tried Thomas Kemper Oktoberfest? Is it still on the shelves? (If you've had it
on tap, I don't want to know.) Just thought you'd like to know: Portland's pubs
are better!
On the question of darkening beer: It's possible that the darkening is a result
of extreme oxidation. I had an enlightening conversation with Fred Eckhardt
today (he came by to get issue no. 2 of his sake newsletter laid out), in which
he explained that chinese shao xing wine and sherry were both darkened
deliberately through oxidation (the distinctive sherry flavor is another
result). Certainly oxidation is responsible for a brown discoloration in white
wines. Somehow, though, it doesn't seem likely that this would happen in the
short beer ferment. ???
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1991 16:54:16 -0800
From: krweiss@ucdavis.edu
Subject: cinnamon vs. head
Chad Epifanio writes:
>
>Somebody had no head on a Christmas Ale:
> I've experienced similar problems with three of my spiced
>ales. The only ingredient they had in common was ground cinnamon.
>I used cinnamon stick in my last batch, and the beer had a pleasant
>head. This is just an observation in my beers.
My Thanksgiving beer was brewed with 2 TBSP of ground cinnamon. It's only
two weeks in the bottle, and already has a nice, creamy head. Also, just an
observation...
Ken Weiss krweiss@ucdavis.edu
Computing Services 916/752-5554
U.C. Davis
Davis, CA 95616
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 91 19:48:12 -0600 (CST)
From: Brian Capouch <brianc@zeta.saintjoe.EDU>
Subject: Blanche de les Nieges
This weekend my brewing partner brought down some beers he purchased at
Sam's (on North Avenue near the Kennedy, for those who ain't found it
yet) in Chicago.
One of the beers was called "Blanche de les Nieges" (or something
somewhat close to that). It was brewed in Belgium, and came in an
enameled 330 ml bottle.
My question: I swear I can taste coriander in this beer. My friend
thinks the subtle, aromatic flavor comes instead from hop oils or
dryhopping. Visits to Jackson's guides didn't turn up anything.
Does anybody out in HBD-land know anything about this beer? Have any of
you brewed with coriander? I happen to have a pretty substantial amount
of it, since I like to have a lot of cilantro, and it goes wildly to
seed.
Brian Capouch
Saint Joseph's College
brianc@saintjoe.edu
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #750, 10/29/91
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