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HOMEBREW Digest #0534

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HOMEBREW Digest
 · 8 months ago

 
HOMEBREW Digest #534 Fri 09 November 1990


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
Re: Corriander Spicing and Drillin' Corks (loc)
drilling stoppers for blow-off (BAUGHMANKR)
pasteurization (Russ Gelinas)
RE>Homebrew Digest #533 (Rad Equipment)
Re: Homebrew Digest #533 (November 08, 1990) (Gary Heston (sci34hub!gary))
Drillin' a cork
More Flaked Barley comments (Rad Equipment)
Re: Malt Liquor (John DeCarlo) (Dennis Henderson)
Cutting holes in stoppers. (Mark Montgomery)
drilling a cork (Chip Hitchcock)
Fleming's Christmas Ale Recipe (Lloyd Parkes)
1990 GABF Professional Panel Blind Tasting Results (hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!att!druco!homer)
Frozen Cornelius Kegs (On a stick) (Jay Hersh)
Re: Drillin' a cork (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Recipes, please! ("Stephen P. Marting")
My old Head Retention Problem (Mike Charlton)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 09:10:21 EST
>From: loc@bostech.com
Subject: Re: Corriander Spicing and Drillin' Corks

Re: Corriander as a spicing for brew. Yes, corriander pre-dates hops as
a spicing for beer, so do most other spices and herbs. Hops are relatively
new on the seen as a bittering agent in beer. In fact for a period of time
a long time ago hops were considered not appropriate in beer. My how times
change. As to corriander's perservitive qualities I have no data.
I have had several beer that have used corriander as a spicing component
and they were great. Corriander add a distinctive flavor not as bitter as
hops. The closest I can describe it is a sharpness with a unique undertone
of sweet. For those of you that were fortunate enough to be at the 1989
National Homebrew Conference and were also luck to get a taste of Ray
Spangler's "Claude of Zeply" that was a good example of corriander (he
even put a seed in each bottle to enhanse the flavor).

Re: Drillin' a Cork. A couple of suggestions. First there is a specific
tool that is used to "drill" out these holes. It looks like a tube with
a handle and the business end is sharpened like a knife. Your local HB
shop might have such a tool. But, I've found a better way to deal with
blow-off. Get a big hose. One that fits over the mouth of the carboy.
My local HB shop sells the stuff by the foot and about 3 feet of this
1 1/8" (I think) tubing is perfect. They call it "blow-off hose".
Once you're ready to install the blow-off, you just slip one end of this
hose ove the mouth of the carboy and the other in a pail of water or B-Brite
solution and let-r-rip. I like it because I don't have to worry about
things geting stuck in a hose of that size. If something does get stuck
you got other problems.

Happy homebrewin'
Roger Locniskar <loc@bostech.com>
problems.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 09:29 EST
>From: BAUGHMANKR@CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU
Subject: drilling stoppers for blow-off

In Homebrew Digest 533, Steve (sandven@wayback.unm.edu) asked about
drilling a hole in a stopper to insert a 1/2" blow-off hose. A better
solution is to just buy about 4 feet of 1" ID vinyl hose from the local
hardware store and stuff it into the neck of the carboy. The OD on the
1" hose is 1 1/8" which fits the 1 1/8" ID of the carboy neck quite well.

Drilling a hose in a stopper is a real pain. Probably the only way to pull
it off is to freeze it first in dry ice. Buy some 1" hose!

Kinney Baughman
baughmankr@appstate

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 09:50 EST
>From: <R_GELINA%UNHH.BITNET@MITVMA.MIT.EDU> (Russ Gelinas)
Subject: pasteurization

I've been experimenting with pastuerization of beer and cider. I was under
the impression that I needed to heat to 170 degrees F for 30 minutes. In a
scientific dictionary, it says heat to 62.8-65.5 degrees C for 30 minutes.
That comes to 145-150 degrees F. So while I've been on the safe side, it
would be quicker, easier, and safer (I'v had a couple of bottles explode)
if I could safely use the lower values. Any info would be appreciated.

Russ (don't ask *why* I'm pasteurizing)

------------------------------

Date: 8 Nov 90 08:47:14
>From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment@rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU>
Subject: RE>Homebrew Digest #533

Reply to: RE>Homebrew Digest #533
In HBD #533 sandven@hooey.unm.edu asks about drilling corks to fit larger (1/2
inch) tubing for blowoff use.

My suggestion is to forget the stopper/tube combo and find some 1 inch (more or
less) tubing which will fit the hole in the fermentor directly and be done with
it. You will never suffer a clogged blowoff tube again, the larger tubing is
much easier to clean out the sticky gunk normally associated with blowoff, and
you don't risk bodily injury when you try to drill out corks! The only
drawback that I have encountered using this method is that you generally need
to support the tube (like draping it across a nail in the wall) otherwise the
weight of the tube could allow it to fall out of the frementor and/or the
overflow jar. And I suppose this method would be a problem if you are not
using narrow neck glass carboys (standard water/acid type).

Russ Wigglesworth <Rad Equipment@RadMac1.UCSF.EDU>



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 09:26 CST
>From: gary@sci34hub.sci.com (Gary Heston (sci34hub!gary))
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #533 (November 08, 1990)

In reply to HOMEBREW Digest #533 and other recent discussions:

In 533, sandven@hooey.unm.edu ask about:

Subject: Drillin' a cork

Howdy - I've been using a 1/4" blowoff tube and am expecting a big grenade one
of these days. I have an extra rubber stopper that fits a 5 gallon carbouy (
I think that the stopper is a #8 or 8.5) but it is drilled for 1/4" tubing.
Question: how does one go about making a 1/2 " hole ?? [ ... ]


Find a piece of thinwall steel tubing and grind a sharp edge one one end.
Place your stopper on a scrap wood block, and drive the sharpened tubing
thru it. Make sure the OD of the tubing is slightly less than the OD of your
new blowoff tube.


Regarding the discussion concerning Alabama alcohol laws.... (Yep, there's
another one of us out here... :-) As it was told to me several years ago, by
someone who indicated real plans to do small scale commercial brewing, the
rules are briefly this:

Without a license ($2000 annually), no brewing, no distillation, and
only 5 gallons of wine--but you have to grow the fruit you use
for the wine yourself.

His research into the matter had only turned up one person ever charged for
either brewing or winemaking, and that was when the individuals' neighbor
had reported him as making moonshine... The Alabama Beverage Control agents
raided, found it was only wine, and fined him a total of $55. This was as of
'85 or so; I've heard of one university course in beer and winemaking being
canceled because of this law (they'd been running the course for several
years). Equipment, supplies, and books are sold openly at the local health
food store (where I buy) with never a mention of problems.

Generally, as long as someone is not selling or otherwise drawing attention
to themselves, I don't forsee any problems. I stay within the federal regs
and don't worry.

Gary Heston System Mismanager and technoflunky uunet!sci34hub!gary or
My opinions, not theirs. SCI Systems, Inc. gary@sci34hub.sci.com
The sysadmin sees all, knows all, and doesn't tell the boss who's
updating their resumes.... This .sig Copyright G. L. Heston, 1990

------------------------------

Date: 8 Nov 90 09:09:14
>From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment@rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU>
Subject: More Flaked Barley comments

REGARDING More Flaked Barley comments
The first time I used flaked barley I had only used extracts, and though I had
been told that I would need to do at least a partial mash in order to use the
flaked barley, I wanted an easier way. I decided to try using Koji which is an
enzyme derived from rice which is used in the production of sake. Some HB
shops carry it. I "mashed" 1 lb. of fl. barley at 140 degrees with 1/2 tsp. of
Koji for an hour (the suggested method) and never got a complete conversion
test from my iodine. I used the run-off from the barley in a holiday stout I
was brewing. The results were not bad, however I have since used flaked barley
several times via the normal "partial mash" (1lb. of 6-row per lb. of flaked
barley) method with much greater success.

So, since the amount of work and time involved in doing the partial mash is
almost the same as these other "short-cut" methods, and it yeilds better
results, mash it!

BTW, I have never had any problem with the blow-off being any heavier when I
use flaked barley, perhaps it is the starch which is not being converted to
fermentables which is the problem here.

Russ Wigglesworth <Rad Equipment@RadMac1.UCSF.EDU>



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 09:59:28 PST
>From: wdh@Eng.Sun.COM (Dennis Henderson)
Subject: Re: Malt Liquor (John DeCarlo)


In California "beer" must be less than 4%. If the alcohol
content is higher then it is either labelled as Malt Liquor
*or* you must have a 'wine/liquor license' to sell it.
Don't know which it is as I have drank/drunk/previously
consumed beer here in California that seemed over 4%.

Most nationally distributed beers are less than 4% as this
is the level that most states use to define beer.

The above info *has* to be correct as I got it from a
bartender ;)

Bonus Question: How does 'light beer' differ from the 3.2%
beer?

...Dennis 'my first beer posting' Henderson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 08:00:17 PST
>From: ncpmont@brahms.AMD.COM (Mark Montgomery)
Subject: Cutting holes in stoppers.

In HBD #533 Steve Sandven asks about making larger holes in stoppers:

Having had to do this very thing recently, I'll put in a
suggestion. Pick up a piece of thin wall brass tubing of the desired
diameter from a hobby shop. This should cost less than a dollar.
On the business end, file a few small notches to act as cutting teeth.
This tube can then be twisted back and forth while pressing it into
one end of the cork to cut a cylinder through the length of the cork.
If you put the wide end of the cork down on a flat surface and cut down
through the small end it's a little more stable and you won't deform
the cork as much as doing it the other way. This works for both cork
and rubber stoppers. If you want to get real fancy you can cut a short
piece from the tubing and solder it crosswise to the back(non-business)
end of the cutting tube to act as a handle thusly:

Small hole to poke out cut plug
|
--------- ---------
--------\ /--------
/ | |\
1/2"brass tubing/------>| | \
| | \-- Solder fillet
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| | <-- Sharpened end for cutting


I hope this helps out,
Mark


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 12:24:46 EST
>From: cjh@vallance.eng.ileaf.com (Chip Hitchcock)
Subject: drilling a cork

If you have access to more of UNM than the computer room, try to find a
beer drinker in the chemistry department. Most of the chem labs I worked or
studied in had sets of hole borers to allow you to put any size hole in a
rubber stopper. The borers are thin metal cylinders with a handle on one end
and the other end sharpened all the way around the outside; you put the
stopper on a flat surface and drive the borer through by twisting while
leaning on it. They're clumsy, and the rubber tends to squeeze aside under
them so it's impossible to get a smooth, non-tapered hole, but they do the
job. If you do this, you probably should make the hole big enough that you can
push the tube all the way through, because the cut surface will be rough
enough that it won't sterilize very well.
Another good solution is to use 1" tubing instead of 1/2"; this will fit
the mouth of most carboys fairly snugly without a stopper. A lot of people are
doing this, so your homebrew store ought to stock 1" tubing; if not you may
be able to get some from the chemistry department, or piggyback on their next
supply order.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Nov 90 11:10:06 +1300
>From: Lloyd Parkes <L.Parkes@comp.vuw.ac.nz>
Subject: Fleming's Christmas Ale Recipe


Ingredients for 5 gallons

3 1/2 pounds Munton and Fison Stout Kit
3 1/2 pounds Munton and Fison amber dry malt extract

All the Munton and Fison stuff over here in N.Z. is marked with metric
measurements. I assume this is because N.Z. and Great Britain (where
Munton and Fison are) like 90% of the world actually use these metric
thingys :-) How much is 3 1/2 pounds? I assume these are American
pounds, which are different from English pounds (the English ones are
not used in England anymore of course).

Hope you all have a _very_ merry Christmas with this ale.
Lloyd

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lloyd Parkes | The stereotypical young adult male in New
lloyd@comp.vuw.ac.nz | Zealand is a good reason for being lesbian.
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 16:01:14 mst
>From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!att!druco!homer
Subject: 1990 GABF Professional Panel Blind Tasting Results


Brown Ale

GOLD - Pacific Crest Ale, Hart Brewing Company, Kalama, WA
SILVER - Tied House Dark, Tied House (Palo Alto Brewing)
BRONZE - Bond Street Ale, Deschutes Brewery and Public House, Bend, OR

Pale Ale

GOLD - Pale Ale, Sierra Nevada Brewing Company/Sierra Nevada T, Chico, CA
SILVER - Liberty Ale, Anchor Brewing Company, San Francisco, Ca
BRONZE - Mirror Pond Pale Ale, Deschutes Brewery and Public House, Bend, OR

Blond/ Golden Ale

GOLD - Prime Time Pale Ale, Big Time Brewing Company, Seattle, WA
SILVER - Burbank Bitter, Kelmers Brewhouse, Santa Rosa, CA
BRONZE - Blonde Pilsner, Sun Valley Brewing Company, Sun Valley, ID

Scotch Ale

GOLD - Holiday Ale, Sun Valley Brewing Company, Sun Valley, ID

Porter

GOLD - Coal Creek Porter, Big Time Brewing Company, Seattle, WA
SILVER - Anchor Porter, Anchor Brewing Company, San Francisco, Ca
BRONZE - Charles River Porter, Cambridge Brewing Company, Cambridge, MA

Stout

GOLD - Barney Flats Stout, Anderson Valley Brewing Company, Boonville, CA
SILVER - Killer Whale Stout, Pacific Coast Brewing Company, Oakland, CA

India Pale Ale

GOLD - Rubicon IPA, Rubicon Brewing Company, Sacramento, CA

Strong Ale

GOLD - Jubelale, Deschutes Brewery and Public House, Bend, OR
SILVER - Eye of the Hawk Special Ale, Mendocino Brewing Company, Hopland, CA
BRONZE - Independence Ale, Kelmers Brewhouse, Santa Rosa, CA

Barley Wine

GOLD - Old Woody Barley Wine, Big Time Brewing Company, Seattle, WA
SILVER - Old Dipsea Barley Wine, Marin Brewing Company, Larkspur, CA
BRONZE - Old Foghorn, Anchor Brewing Company, San Francisco, Ca

Amber Ale

GOLD - Bridalveil Ale, Butterfield Brewery, Fresno, CA
SILVER - Alaskan Autumn Ale, Alaskan Brewing and Bottling Company,
Douglas, AK
BRONZE - Celebration Ale, Sierra Nevada Brewing Company/Sierra Nevada T,
Chico, CA

Bock

GOLD - Bock Octoberfest, Stoudt Brewery, Adamstown, PA
SILVER - Oktoberfest, Mill Bakery, Brewery and Eatery (#5), Charlotte, No
BRONZE - Hornet Trail, Mill Bakery, Brewery and Eatery (#5), Charlotte, No

Doppelbock

GOLD - Samuel Adams Double Bock, Boston Beer Company, Jamaica Plain, MA
SILVER - Duesseldorfer Doppelbock, Weinkeller Brewery, Berwyn, IL

Amber/Vienna

GOLD - Wild Boar Special Amber, Georgia Brewing Company, Atlanta, GA
SILVER - Winterfest, Adolph Coors Company, Golden, CO
BRONZE - Vienna, Old Dominion Brewing Company, Ashburn, Vi

Maerzen/Oktoberfest

GOLD - Adler Brau Oktoberfest, Appleton Brewing Company/Dos Bandidos Brew
Pub, Appleton, WI
SILVER - Market Street Oktoberfest, Bohannon Brewing Company, Nashville, TN
BRONZE - October, Privatbrauerei Hubsch, Davis, Ca

European Dark/Munchner Dunkel

GOLD - Capital Gartenbrau Dark, Capital Brewery Incorporated, Middleton, WI
SILVER - Frankenmuth Dark, Frankenmuth, Frankenmuth, MI
BRONZE - Durango Dark Lager, Durango Brewing Company, Durango, Co

Export/Special

GOLD - Dortmunder, Great Lakes Brewing Company, Cleveland, OH
SILVER - Dortmunder Export, Stoudt Brewery, Adamstown, PA

Munchner Helles

GOLD - Penn Light Lager, Pennsylvania Brewing Company/Allegheny Brewer,
Pittsburgh, PA
SILVER - Hopfen Helles Beer, Weeping Radish Restaurant & Brewery (#2),
Durham, NC

American Lager

GOLD - Rainer, Rainier Brewing Company, Seattle, WA
SILVER - Pabst Blue Ribbon, Pabst Brewing Company, Milwaukee, WI
BRONZE - Rough Rider Premium Beer, Dakota Brewing Co., Grand Forks, SD

American Light Lager

GOLD - Lowenbrau Light, Miller Brewing Company, Milwaukee, Wi
SILVER - Coors Light, Adolph Coors Company, Golden, CO
BRONZE - Miller Reserve Light, Miller Brewing Company, Milwaukee, Wi

American Premium Lager

GOLD - Coors Extra Gold, Adolph Coors Company, Golden, CO
SILVER - Lowenbrau, Miller Brewing Company, Milwaukee, Wi
BRONZE - Berghoff, Berghoff-Huber Brewing, Monroe, WI

American Premium Dark Lager

GOLD - Lowenbrau Dark, Miller Brewing Company, Milwaukee, Wi
SILVER - Henery Weinhard's Dark, Blitz-Weinhard Brewing, Portland, OR
BRONZE - Michelob Classic Dark, Anheuser-Busch Incorporated, St. Louis, MO

European Pilsner

GOLD - Samuel Adams Boston Lager, Boston Beer Company, Jamaica Plain, MA
SILVER - German Pils, Privatbrauerei Hubsch, Davis, Ca
BRONZE - Crazy Ed's Arizona Pilsner, Crazy Ed's Black Mountain Brewing
Company, Cave Creek, AZ

Dry

GOLD - Michelob Dry, Anheuser-Busch Incorporated, St. Louis, MO
SILVER - Bud Dry, Anheuser-Busch Incorporated, St. Louis, MO
BRONZE - Rainer Dry, Rainier Brewing Company, Seattle, WA

Malt Liqour

GOLD - St. Ides, McKenzie River Corporation, San Francisco, CA
SILVER - Olde English 1800, Pabst Brewing Company, Milwaukee, WI
BRONZE - Mickey's Malt Liquor, G. Heileman Brewing Company Incorporated,
LaCrosse, WI

Alt

GOLD - Alaskan Amber Beer, Alaskan Brewing and Bottling Company, Douglas, AK
SILVER - Long Trail Ale, The Mountain Brewers Incorporated, Bridgewater, VT
BRONZE - Amber Alt, Pacific Coast Brewing Company, Oakland, CA

American Lager-Ale

GOLD - Genesee Cream Ale, Genesee Brewing Company Incorporated, Rochester,
NY
SILVER - Little Kings Cream Ale, Hudepohl-Schoenling Brewing Company,
Cincinnati, OH

Fruit, Vegetable

GOLD - Blueberry Ale, Marin Brewing Company, Larkspur, CA
SILVER - Zele Lemon Dry Light, Zele International, Seattle, WA
BRONZE - Raspberry Wheat, Rubicon Brewing Company, Sacramento, CA

Herb, Spice

GOLD - Hoppy Holidaze, Marin Brewing Company, Larkspur, CA
SILVER - McGuire's Christamas Ale, McGuire's Irish Pub and Brewery,
Pensacola, FL

Rauch

GOLD - Rauch, Oregon Brewing Co./Bayfront Brewery and Publi, Newport, OR
SILVER - Alaskan Smoked Porter, Alaskan Brewing and Bottling Company,
Douglas, AK

Weizen

GOLD - Weizen, Stoudt Brewery, Adamstown, PA

American Wheat

GOLD - Millstream Wheat, Millstream Brewing Company, Amana, IA
SILVER - Pyramid Wheaten Ale, Hart Brewing Company, Kalama, WA
BRONZE - Doppelweizen, Tied House (Palo Alto Brewing), ,

Jim Homer
att!drutx!homer
att!druco!homer


------------------------------

Date: 08 Nov 90 16:15:22 EST
>From: Jay Hersh <75140.350@compuserve.com>
Subject: Frozen Cornelius Kegs (On a stick)

Well I opened my spare fridge and was surprised to see some wort on the bottom
of it. A closer look revealed some frozen foam lurking about the seal of the
cornelius keg (3 Gallon). I was attempting to do a 4 week low (but not that low)
30s lagering of an Alt I've made, follwoing Norm Hardy's suggestions.

I didn't know my little spare fridge had that much cooling capacity. In any case
I have raised the thermostat. Questions

1) I know that CO2 dissolves better at lower temps. Will freezing affect the
carbonation or will the CO2 still be dissolved upon thawing??

2) Anyone else done anything stupid like this?? How did it turn out??

Jay Hersh (Dr. Goof)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 16:59:55 mst
>From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Re: Drillin' a cork

steve asks:
>Question: how does one go about making a 1/2 " hole ??

Well, I tried two different methods and I don't remember
which one worked. One was a 3/8" bit and the other was
a 3/8" OD piece of copper tubing about 3" long. Both
were tried with a power drill and the result was a very
ugly hole. I squeezed a 7/16" hard plastic tube about
4" long into the stopper and the ugliness of the hole
was no longer to be seen. I do remember that I used
a slow speed (otherwise the stopper will melt and gum
up the works). Be careful!
Al.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 19:22:34 -0500 (EST)
>From: "Stephen P. Marting" <sm6h+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Recipes, please!

Hi! I'm a relative newcomer to homebrewing, having only about 5 batches
under my belt, and all of them were kits from William's Brewing in
California. Now, I'd like to start my own batches, but I really have no
recipes.

Can anyone send me, or post, recipes for lagers, porters, pilseners, and
ales? Also, if you get the ingredients from anyplace other than
William's, could you include the address for a catalog?

Thanx in advance - SPAM.
sm6h+@andrew.cmu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Nov 90 20:04:39 CST
>From: Mike Charlton <umcharl3@ccu.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: My old Head Retention Problem

Hi all. You may remeber my problem with head retention. Well, I took
everybody's suggestions, and even a few of my own and made a weizen bier.
Guess what? No head at all!!! Now this is getting a little frustrating.
A beer with 60% wheat and no head. Well, I figured it must be something
contaminating our equipment (with detergent or something). However,
neither soap nor detergent has ever touched any of our equipment. We
bought everything specifically for brewing. In addition, the bottles
are only rinsed with water and sterilized with Sodium Metabisulphate.
Detergent has never touched them either. About the time I realized
this, I was about to jump off a bridge. To calm myself down I decided
to read a few chapters of George Fix's book "Principles of Brewing
Science". I was near the end of the chapter on protein-phenol
reactions when I saw it; irish moss not only attacks large protein
molecules, but medium sized ones as well. George Fix warns never
to exceed to maximum reccomended use of any clarifying agent. We
ALWAYS exceed this value (I'm not sure why we started this practice,
but we do). We get such a good hot break, that it's unbelievable.
I am now convinced that this is the problem, and the next batch of beer
will be brewed without any irish moss!
Thanks for everybody's help
Mike Charlton

------------------------------


End of HOMEBREW Digest #534, 11/09/90
*************************************
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