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HOMEBREW Digest #0555
This file received at Mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU 90/12/17 03:12:51
HOMEBREW Digest #555 Mon 17 December 1990
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Transporting Homebrew (Rob McDonald)
Homebrew at Mizzou ("KBS::TONS::HOLTSFORD")
Re: Guinness made in Canada, nitrogen in Guinness. (a.e.mossberg)
Re: It's too cold. (Jeffrey R Blackman)
RE: Cosmic awareness and good beer ("Andy Wilcox")
Re: It's too cold! (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Guiness and Nitrogen (John Polstra)
Dr. Beer Seminar in Boston (Jay Hersh)
Re: SG and fermentation (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
open primaries (Keith Winter)
duvel (UUCJEFF)
Water Treatment (Mike Charlton)
random thoughts (mike_schrempp)
Whats brewing in 1990 "book wise" ("JOHN ISENHOUR")
Clarity, temp,stills (Bill Crick)
Re: Homebrew Digest #554 (December 14, 1990) (Miu Wang)
Re: Homebrew Digest #549 (December 04, 1990) (Miu Wang)
Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues]
Archives are available from netlib@mthvax.cs.miami.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 1990 02:12:45 -0500
From: Rob McDonald <rob@maccs.DCSS.McMaster.CA>
Subject: Transporting Homebrew
Does anybody know what the Canadian laws say about transporting homebrew?
I don't mean a couple of bottles. Can I bring a keg along to a party?
.....rob
------------------------------
Date: 14 Dec 90 08:14:00 EST
From: "KBS::TONS::HOLTSFORD" <holtsford%kbs.tons.decnet@clvax1.cl.msu.edu>
Subject: Homebrew at Mizzou
Howdy, homebrewers --
I'm moving to Columbia, MO real soon and am wondering if anyone out there can
tell me about the beer scene there. (I was glad to read in the last Zymurgy
that Dave Miller had helped push a brewpub bill through the MO state
legislature -- no small feat in the land of Bud, I'm sure. Thanks, Dave.)
Any info. on grain/hops suppliers, homebrew clubs, and stores for buying
quality commercial beers would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks for the specs on Liberty Ale.
Happy brewing,
Tim Holtsford
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 09:38:05 EST
From: sct60a.sunyct.edu!sct60a.sunyct.edu!yagerk@sct60a.sunyct.edu (Kevin Yager)
Date: Friday, December 14
>From: yagerk@sct60a.sunyct.edu
>Date: Wed, 12 Dec 90 20:06:17 -0500
>From: ag297@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Perry A. Trunick)
>Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #552 (December 07, 1990)
>RE: Patriotic Duty
>I saw the posting asking for info on how to make a still. Too
>many M*A*S*H reruns. Distilling beverages as far as I know is
>illegal in the US. US military personnel (as far as I remember)
>are subject to US law and military law (UCMJ). That means, no
>still. In addition, most Moslem countries prohibit alcohol.
>Some "host" countries are adament about enforcing at least some
>of their laws, even on US military personnel who might otherwise
>be considered to be living on US soil while they are on a base.
>So, my advice is not to fulfill the request for info on building
>a still. The repercussions could be greater than any possible
>pleasure from distilling a beverage (not to mention the chance
>of creating a poison instead of the desired beverage).
This kind of thinking is how books get banned. If you don't think it is
a good idea to distill, fine!! Your advice is well taken. But, I don't
think it is fair for you to make that decision for anyone else!!!
The fact that a certain topic has certain undisirable legal aspects should
not limit my right to study that topic.
Kevin Yager
yagerk@sct60a.sunyct.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 16:28:56 GMT
From: aem@mthvax.cs.miami.edu (a.e.mossberg)
Subject: Re: Guinness made in Canada, nitrogen in Guinness.
In digest <1990Dec14.082148.29818@mthvax.cs.miami.edu> homebrew%hpfcmr@hplabs.hpl.hp.com (CHANGE THIS IF NECESSARY) writes:
>My Irish roommate was incredulous when I told him that people on the
>Homebrew Digest were claiming that: 1. Guinness sold in the U.S.
>is actually made in Canada; and 2. Guinness uses nitrogen to obtain
>the head it has. Could the people who posted this information please
>clarify: what are your sources (Jim Homer [att!drutx!homer] claims to
>have watched a Guinness promotional video that says the mixture is
>75% nitrogen and 25% CO2); do these suprising facts apply to Guinness
>Stout, Guinness Gold, or both; and do these facts apply to botted or
>draft Guinness or both?
What I've heard down here in Miami is that Guinness here is actually
brewed in the Bahamas. It doesn't say on the label where it is from. The
labels here in Florida are different from labels on Guinness in North
Carolina, I've noticed. The back label here is the bulldog, with the
slogan in spanish. It's nearly identical to the labels I saw on Guinness
in Spain, except in Spain I was only able to find Guinness in cans.
aem
- --
aem@mthvax.cs.miami.edu .......................................................
Great passions are mortal illnesses. What might cure them makes them but more
dangerous than before. - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 8:34:37 PST
From: Jeffrey R Blackman <blackman@hpihouz.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Re: It's too cold.
Full-Name: Jeffrey R Blackman
> Date: Tue, 11 Dec 90 12:54 EST
> From: durk@dialogic.com (Dave Durkin)
> Subject: It's too cold!
>
> In digest #553, Michael J. McCaughey wrote:
>
> [Temp in apartment discussed]
>
> >Someone mentioned using a acquarium heater to maintain temp. How well
> >does this work? How do you keep things sanitary? Anyone have any suggestions
> >for good heater models and setups?
>
> I was the one who originally discussed the aquariam heater. I've used
> the heater directly in the fermenter with great success although it was
> sheer luck, I am sure 8->.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Durk
>
Another method that seems to be working for me right now is an electric blanket
wrapped around the carboys. I have two 5 gallons fermenting along very nicely
and both seem quite happy to have the blanket. I've set the setting on "2".
Any lower didn't seem to have a noticable effect. The carboys are still cool
to the touch, though I haaven't measured the actual temperature. Maybe I'll
do that this weekend!
Next time I'll just light a little fire and play some classical music to keep
those yeasties happy! :) Celebrate the holidays and remember to RELAX!
-Jeff (I live to SNOWBOARD, SCUBA, and BREW!!) Blackman
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 13:40:38 EST
From: "Andy Wilcox" <andy@eng.ufl.edu>
Subject: RE: Cosmic awareness and good beer
Eric Roe" <KXR11@PSUVM.PSU.EDU> writes in HBD #554
Your basic brewing setup should include:
...
*Hydrometer
I wouldn't usually recommend a Hydrometer to a beginning brewer.
If your readings are off, this could be a cause of worry. Leaving
it out is also a good way to trim a little more off the cost of
startup for money-minded students and the like. Our local store
sells the hydrometer for $6.
-Andy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 12:10:12 mst
From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Re: It's too cold!
Dave Durkin writes:
>In order to prevent infection, other brewers have recommended that
>the carboy or bin be set in a large pale or tub (beer distributors/stores
>have galvanized tubs perfect for this sort of thing) of water with the
>aquariam heater in the tub. The fermenter could be wrapped in towels which
>would draw the heated water around the bin giving additional thermal
>protection. While I haven't tried this, it sounds as though it would work
>fine.
One correction. The towels which would draw the heated water would probably
end up COOLING the carboy instead of warming it (especially in the cool
room you are describing). As the water in the towels evaporates, it will
take a large portion of the heat with it (just like the sweat on our
skin). You can use the tub, water and towels in the summer to cool your
carboy, however. I recommend ommitting the towels for heating. Another
thing to consider is that if you cover the carboy, tub, and heater with a
plastic bag (as I do to keep light off the beer) the water evaporating
from the tub will condense on the inside of the plastic bag. If the bag
hangs over the outside of the tub, the water will drip on the floor.
I've heard of another method for keeping beer a little warmer than room
temp: a light bulb. Someone (on this digest) said they use a box
(I don't recall cardboard or wood) that they cover the carboy with and
put a light bulb inside the box. Two problems with this idea: 1) the
light could cause the beer to become "light struck" (for an example
of light struck beer, I suggest Heineken -- almost every bottle I've had
has been light struck) or 2) fire hazard.
I realize that I haven't proposed a useful solution, but maybe you
could come up with one with the above suggestions plus some of your
own.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 10:57:55 PST
From: polstra!jdp@uunet.UU.NET (John Polstra)
Subject: Guiness and Nitrogen
Recently there have been some expressions of surprise in the HBD about
the use of nitrogen to produce the amazing head of draught Guinness. I
have no doubt that it is true. I've seen it mentioned in several
brewing books, and the video that Jim Homer described provides further
confirmation.
But I get the impression that some of the posters on the subject don't
exactly understand what the purpose of the nitrogen is. Here is my
understanding of that:
1. Guinness is *not* "carbonated with nitrogen". It is carbonated
with CO2. You can apply all the nitrogen pressure you want to a
beer, but that's not going to make it fizzy. The reason is that
nitrogen will not dissolve in beer. Hence, as Jim Homer pointed
out, a mixture of nitrogen and CO2 is used.
2. I believe that the legendary Guinness head is accomplished
primarily by blasting the beer out of the tap at high pressure.
That's where the nitrogen comes in. If they stored the beer under
high CO2 pressure, too much of the CO2 would dissolve in the beer,
and the beer would end up uselessly fizzy. So nitrogen is used to
provide the high pressure for a violent delivery from the draught
system, without making the beer itself too fizzy.
3. If you are a kegger and don't mind wasting some CO2 (it's not
exactly a precious resource) you can get much the same effect at
home without the nitrogen. Store the beer at your usual pressure.
When you are ready to serve a brew or two, crank the CO2 pressure
way up. Draw off the brews at high pressure and you'll get a great
head, just like Guinness. Then, bleed off some CO2 to reduce the
pressure back to the normal storage levels.
As long as we're talking about Guinness, here's another interesting
tidbit, from CJoHB, p. 177:
The only character that this recipe [for a Guinness pretender] is
lacking is the unique "tang" that the real stuff has. The Guinness
Brewery achieves its tang by actually adding a small amount (3
percent) of pasteurized soured beer to all of its stouts around the
world.
Interesting, eh?
John Polstra polstra!jdp@uunet.uu.net
Polstra & Co., Inc. ...!uunet!polstra!jdp
Seattle, Washington USA (206) 932-6482
"Self-knowledge is always bad news." -- John Barth
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 14:53:59 EST
From: hersh@coco.ctc.tasc.com (Jay Hersh)
Subject: Dr. Beer Seminar in Boston
We are holding a Dr. Beer Seminar
When: January 19, 1991 (Saturday)
Time: Noon
Where: Sunset Bar & Grill, corner of Harvard & Brighton Aves., Allston
Cost: $5 advance
This event is limited to 30 people, ADVANCE REGISTRATION IS REQUIRED
To register send cash, check or money order (postmarked by Jan 10th)
to
Dr. Beer
c/o Steve Stroud
15 Dunbar Ave.
Medford, Ma. 02155
checks or money orders should be payable to Steve Stroud or Jay Hersh.
(I'll probably be out of town until Jan 14th so Steve is point of contact)
In addition to you money include your name, address and telephone
This is a first come first served basis, see you there
- Jay H
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 14:55:48 mst
From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Re: SG and fermentation
st. stephen writes:
>At bottling time our SG's have generally been a little
>higher than the ones specified in the book.
The final SG depends mostly on your yeast and the amount of
non-fermentables in your wort. Different yeast strains
have different attenuations. A highly attenuative yeast
will eat more sugars and produce a lower Final Gravity (FG)
whereas a less attenuative yeast will give you a higher FG.
If you are mashing, then you have control of your enzyme activity.
There are two main enzymes in barley that break the comples
carbohydrates down into simpler carbohydrates. The longer you
let this enzyme activity go on, the more complex carbs will be
converted to simple carbs. Back to the yeasts. Different yeasts
are capable of eating various complexities of carbohydrates
(i.e. some can only eat the simplest sugars like glucose, some can
eat more complex ones). So now you've got a particular strain of
yeast swimming around in your wort munching the sugars that it
can -- the ones it can't it leaves behind. The ones left behind
contribute to the FG.
Proteins in your beer also add to the FG. Finings (like Irish Moss)
will precipitate out some (much ?) of the proteins and reduce the FG.
When you buy malt extract, the percentage of non-fermentable sugars,
proteins and starch is already set for you. Unless you do a partial
mash, or add finings, you won't change it's fermentable/non-fermentable
ratio. Different manufacturers have different ratios, but they tend to
be pretty consistent.
Notice that some people have noticed their beers getting drier and
gradually overcarbonate after a few months in the bottle. This is
most often caused by a bacterial infection (most commonly Lactobacillus).
The bacteria can eat (or cut into simpler carbs for the yeast to eat)
the sugars left behind by the primary fermentation.
>We usually rack to a secondary after say 4 days of fermentation in
>the primary, at which point the fermentation activity is quite low,
>sometimes not even noticeble. We then usually let it sit for another
>10 days or so in the secondary; there's certainly no sign of fermentation
>at the end of that period (ie no glubs). So, it seems the fermentation
>is done;
Depends on the yeast. I've had Muntona (Munton and Fison) yeast ferment
out in 7 days at 72F. Whereas I've currently got a batch of Bitter
(3.3lbs Edme DMS and 3lbs M&F Light Dried Malt Extract) with Wyeast
American Ale at 65F which started at 66 glubs per minute on day 2,
still going at 32 glubs per minute 11 days later. I guestimate that
it should not be bottled (or kegged in my case) for at least two more
weeks. If visible fermentation (glubs) has stopped and you are at a
resonable FG (+/- a couple of points) wait an extra day or two and
then go ahead.
Alcohol level can kill yeast also. Some yeasts are bred for a high
alcohol tolerance, some just can't handle it. Beer reaches a particular
alcohol level and, boom, the yeast kicks off.
If you are using grains of any kind, sparging efficiency can affect
your OG (original gravity) and thus move your FG proportionately.
I just thought of another factor that could give you an *apparent* higher FG.
If your beer goes through a temperature shock (a sudden 10F change is more
than enough for some yeasts) it can either die or go dormant.
Oops, one more factor! Oxygen in the wort. If you don't sufficiently
aerate your wort (after it cools to below 80F (to minimize oxidation))
your yeast could run out of oxygen during respiration and all the
above factors could affect them more.
>what could be done to make it ferment to a lower SG?
Primarily, the yeast strain (there are attenuation listings for Wyeast
- -- ask your distributor for a copy) and the fermentable/non-fermentable
ratio.
Al.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 15:29:13 PST
From: winter%cirrusl@oliveb.ATC.olivetti.com (Keith Winter)
Subject: open primaries
Ken Weiss notes:
>Sudwerk is the only place I've been that uses open fermentors for primary
>fermentation. They look like stainless steel hot tubs, right on display behind
>glass, near the bar. They get krauesen on those fermentors so stiff and white
>it looks like merangue - meraunge - ahh shit - whipped egg whites. (Foregoing
>is, of course, just MHO.)
>
I noticed when I toured Sierra Nevada's brewery that they also use an open
primary with the same thick krauesen on the top. I've also noted that I get
the same on my own brews since I started using re-cultured SN yeast. Of
course, I use a closed primary :-).
Keith Winter
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 19:01:12 -0600
From: UUCJEFF@BOGECNVE.BITNET
Subject: duvel
This is my favorite Beer on the planet! It is an ale, and at about 8%
alchohol, must be drunk not too cold. It is the tastiest when it is
not so cold. In Chicago, you can get it for about $9 a 4 pack, but
drinking 4 of them is like drinking 8 of other stuff.
I cannot comment too much on how it is made, on the bottle it says it has
been brewed since 1701 by the Moortgat Family, whole flower Styrian and
Saaz hops and premium 2-row barley.
About a year ago I was in Amsterdam visiting a friend, who is quite a
beer collector and he was turning me on to all these rare Belgium
beers. One of them which was very interesting called Lefebure from the
Abbay Bonne Esperanes, from the city of Quenas. But that is a tough
one to find, even in european cafes which specialize in Belgium beers.
well off to get some duvel!
Jeff Beer ( yes, that is really my name )
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 90 16:26:00 CST
From: Mike Charlton <umcharl3@ccu.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Water Treatment
Hello. I've just been looking at my water analysis and spent quite a long
time figuring it out, so I thought I'd comment on the water analysis given
in the previous HBD. Alkalinity should represent temporary hardness.
Hardness represents total hardness. To get permanent hardness subtract
alkalinity from hardness (in you case 137.1 - 94.72 = 42.38). This would
be quite low for a pale ale. Also your calcium level is quite low
(40 something if I remember). For a pale ale I would add at least 1
teaspoon of gypsum (maybe even 1 1/2 or 2). You could also add a little
bit of magnesium sulphate to get your magnesium level up to between
15 and 25 ppm (be careful with this stuff, though. Even a little too
much will make the beer unpalatable -- I speak from experience). For a
stout, you may want to add about 1/2 teaspoon of calcium carbonate and
half a teaspoon of calcium sulphate. Note that I have very little
experience with water treatment, but your water supply is fairly similar
to mine and I have spent the last few days trying to figure out what I
should do. My sources are Gary Bauer's article on recipe formulation in
the all-grain special issue of Zymugry, Dave Miller's book "The Complete
Handbook of Home Brewing", Dave Line's book "The Big Book of Brewing", and
George Fix's book "Principles of Brewing Science".
Mike Charlton
------------------------------
Date: 14 Dec 90 16:18 -0800
From: mike_schrempp%29@hp4200.desk.hp.com
Subject: random thoughts
Some random thoughts:
I bought an electronic ph meter for $40 from Edmund Scientific and it works
great. It claims an accuracy of .2ph. I used it last weekend and it beats the
hell out of using papers.
I'm making my first Lager and I think I've screwed up a little. I chilled my
wort down to 45F and pitched my dry Whitbread Lager yeast and set the carboy
outside (55F). After almost a week there has been almost no activity. My local
homebrew shop says to warm it up and keep it warm until fermentation stops. I'm
planning to warm it up for a few days, see if fermentation starts then put it
back outside when things are cranking. What's the correct proceedure?
A friend that went to Japan brought me a can of Asahi "live" beer. I believe
this means it has yeast in the can. I'm not a yeast culturer yet, but I wonder
if anyone has heard of this before. Is it worth saving?
That's all...
Mike Schrempp
------------------------------
Date: 16 Dec 90 01:27:00 EDT
From: "JOHN ISENHOUR" <isenhour@vax001.kenyon.edu>
Subject: Whats brewing in 1990 "book wise"
With the holidays just around the bend, and the year coming to an end, this
seems like a good time to get current on what was published in 1990
concerning yeast, fermentation, brewing and beer. I was really tempted to put
in an entry for _The Encyclopedia Brewmania_ with myself as the author, but I'm
not quite finished with it :-) On a more serious note, if the listing says
"available through PUBNET", your local book store can probably use that fact to
expedite ordering. Search is current to dec-1990. As before, please leave
copyright notice attached to keep me employed!
(I hate it when people say...) ENJOY!
John
(Dear Santa, please send the following)
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright (c) 1987,1988,1989 R. R. BOWKER, All rights reserved.
Abelson, John N.; Simon, Melvin I.; Guthrie, Christine & Fink,
Gerald R., editors. Methods in Enzymology, Vol. 194: Guide to
Yeast Genetics & Molecular Biology. 850p. 01/1991. price not
set. (ISBN 0-12-182095-5); Paper. price not set. (ISBN
0-12-310670-2). Academic Press, Incorporated.
Lindberg, Richard C. To Serve & Collect: Chicago Politics & Police
Corruption from the Lager Beer Riot to the Summerdal
Scandal. 01/1991. write for info. (ISBN 0-275-93415-2, C3415,
Praeger Pubs). Greenwood Publishing Group, Incorporated.
American Homebrewers Assoc. Staff., editor. Beer & Brewing:
Transcripts of the 1990 Homebrewers Conferece Talks, Oakland,
CA, Vol. 10. (Illus.). 240p. 11/1990. Paper. $20.95. Brewers
Publications.
Masahiro Matsunaga. Beer Label Design. (Eng. & Japanese).
(Illus.). 112p. 01/1990. Paper. $26.95. (ISBN 4-5685-0108-3,
Bijutsu Shuppan-Sha Japan). Books Nippan.
Hough, James S. Biotechnology of Malting & Brewing. (Studies in
Biotechnology: No. 1). (Illus.). 182p. 08/1990. write for
info. (ISBN 0-521-39553-4). Cambridge University Press.
Institute for Brewing Studies Staff., editor. Brewers Resource
Directory, 1990-91. (Illus.). 240p. 1990. Paper. $60.00.
(ISBN 0-937381-19-5). Brewers Publications.
Lovett, M. Brewing & Breweries. 1990. $22.00x. (Kent Cty Coun UK).
State Mutual Book & Periodical Service, Limited.
Foster, Tony. Classic Beer Styles: Pale Ale. (Illus.). 140p. 1990.
Paper. $11.95. (ISBN 0-937381-18-7). Brewers Publications.
Miller, Dave. Classic Beer Styles: Continental Pilsner. (Illus.).
140p. 09/1990. Paper. $11.95. Brewers Publications.
Yu, P. L., editor. Fermentation Technologies: Industrial
Applications: Proceedings of the International Biotechnology
Conference Held at Massey University, Palmerston North, New
Zealand, 12-15 February, 1990. 446p. 07/1990. $90.00. (ISBN
1-85166-516-1). Elsevier Science Publishing Company,
Incorporated.
Available through PUBNET
McNeil, B. M. & Harvey, L. M., editors. Fermentation: A Practical
Approach. (Practical Approach Ser.). (Illus.). 240p. 03/1990.
$65.00. (ISBN 0-19-963044-5, IRL Pr); Paper. $39.00. (ISBN
0-19-963045-3, IRL Pr). Oxford University Press,
Incorporated.
Available through PUBNET
Wiseman, A. Genetically Engineered Proteins & Enzymes from Yeast:
Production Control. (Illus.). 200p. 07/1990. $60.00. (ISBN
0-412-02301-6, A3907). Routledge, Chapman & Hall,
Incorporated.
Morris, Stephen. The Great Beer Trek: A Guide to the Highlights of
American Beer Drinking. rev. ed. 240p. 03/1990. $9.95. (ISBN
0-8289-0766-8). Greene.
Shanken, Marvin R. Impact Yearbook Nineteen Ninety: Directory of
the U. S. Wine, Spirits & Beer Industry. (Illus.). 233p.
(Orig.). 05/1990. Paper. $150.00x. (ISBN 0-918076-82-X).
Shanken, M., Communications, Incorporated.
Jackson, Michael. The New World Guide to Beer. (Illus.). 256p.
11/1990. $17.98. (ISBN 0-89471-884-3). Running Press Book
Publishers.
Harris, Moira F. The Paws of Refreshment: A History of Hamm's Beer
Advertising. Intro. by Sandage, Charles H. LC 90-52716.
(Illus.). 124p. 08/1990. Paper. $15.95. (ISBN 0-9617767-6-5).
Pogo Press, Incorporated.
Fix, George. Principles of Brewing Science. Raizman, Marjorie,
editor. (Illus.). 250p. (Orig.). 02/1990. Paper. $24.95.
(ISBN 0-937381-17-9). Brewers Publications.
Haiber, William & Haiber, Robert. Short but Foamy History of Beer:
The Drink That Invented Itself. (Illus.). 100p. (Orig.).
12/1990. Paperback text edition. $15.95. (ISBN
0-944089-09-7). Info Devels, Incorporated.
BCC Staff. U. S. Market for Natural Fermentation Food Additives.
06/1990. $2250.00. (ISBN 0-89336-737-0, C115). Business
Communications Company, Incorporated.
Kockova-Kratochvilova, Anna. Yeasts & Yeast-Like Organisms. LC
89-8936. 06/1990. Library binding - adult. $110.00. (ISBN
0-89573-229-7). V C H Publishers, Incorporated.
Available through PUBNET
Rose, A. H. & Harrison, J. S., editors. The Yeasts, Vol. 4: Yeast
Organelles. 2nd ed. (Serial Publication Ser.). 550p.
09/1990. price not set. (ISBN 0-12-596414-5). Academic Press,
Incorporated.
Barnett, J. A.; Payne, R. W. & Yarrow, D. Yeasts: Characteristics
& Identification. 2nd ed. Contrib. by Barnett, Linda.
(Illus.). 1000p. 07/1990. write for info. (ISBN
0-521-35056-5). Cambridge University Press.
------------------------------
Date: 14 Dec 90 22:26:46 GMT
From: bnrgate!bnr-rsc!crick@uunet.UU.NET (Bill Crick)
Subject: Clarity, temp,stills
A few humble comments on the last few days:
Clarity and Irish Moss.:I don't know of anything better.
Issinglass finings: I use gelatin finings which work fine.
I usually add 1/2 tsp when I rack to secondary,
and 1/2 tsp in with priming sugar when I bottle
Adding them at bottling helps create a good solid
sediment, making the beer easier to pour clear.
Cappers: I've capped about 5000 bottles with my "wingnut and Spring in the
middle capper". It has chomped about 5 bottles. It does need a bit of
grease inside the cup every once in a while to stop it from sticking
on the capped bottle. As for the adjustment, I've played with it, and
seen no effect? What is is supposed to do?
Stills: The inverted lid, and floating bowl still was used in rural France
to make your basic brandy from wine.
The pressure cooker, and copper coils stills work. Snow makes a good
cooling medium for the coil. NB: I've never tried this, but have
witnessed the operation of one and tasted the results. WWWHHHoooaaaaa!
Temperature: MrMike: I do almost all of my brewing at 45F to 55F. I do usually
start the fermentation at 70F. Even for ale yeast this will work,
but you have to be a bit more patient. Its great for lagers.
Starting kit: Sounds good. You'll buy more toys as you go on, but it sounds
like you have the basics there. I'd avoid plastic carboys because
you can't see what is going on, and its harder to tell if they are
clean.
Grain Brewing: Quote from a friend last weekend while brewing "HotRod Ale":
"You know you are an all grain brewer when you buy your
second bottle of iodine!"
Bill Crick Brewius Ergo Sum.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 90 20:54:31 PST
From: Miu Wang <tmwang@pbhyg.PacBell.COM>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #554 (December 14, 1990)
My address is changing from
mwan@pacbell.com
to
tmwang@pacbell.com
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Miu Wang 415-867-6476
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This space provided by permission of the Minister of Disinformation...... :-)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 90 20:07:41 PST
From: Miu Wang <tmwang@pbhyg.PacBell.COM>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #549 (December 04, 1990)
My address is being changed from
mwan@pacbell.com
to
tmwang@pacbell.com
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Miu Wang 415-867-6476
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This space provided by permission of the Minister of Disinformation...... :-)
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #555, 12/17/90
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