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HOMEBREW Digest #0535
HOMEBREW Digest #535 Mon 12 November 1990
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
5 vs 7 gallon carboys (Kevin N. Carpenter)
Homebrew Digest #533 (November 08, 1990) (fwd) (John Freeman)
Homebrew Digest #533 (mailman)
Irish Moss, aging time (krweiss)
Re: Homebrew Digest #534 (November 09, 1990) ("J.U.J.")
Coriander recipe(s) (dbreiden)
Grain in the boil? (Dan Needham)
Re: Drillin' a hole (sandven)
Re: U.S. approximations -> Metric (John DeCarlo)
Spent Grain (Ken Buswell)
Homebrew Digest #534 (mailman)
GABF Results (Jay Hersh)
Homebrew Digest #534 (mailman)
Old Breweries (KXR11)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 90 08:54:33 -0600
>From: kncarp@wunoc.wustl.edu (Kevin N. Carpenter)
Subject: 5 vs 7 gallon carboys
Hi, I'm a complete novice at this (2nd batch being brewed this Sunday)
although I've been reading the journal for several months now. Anyhow, over
the months I've collected several 5 gallon carboys and (1) 7 gallon carboy.
Now it seemed to me (and I have/will use this method for my first two batches)
that it was a lot easier to use the 7 gallon carboy and have enough head space
to not need to worry about blowoff. But having recently read through Papazian
(sp?) I came across a comment that utilizing a blowoff system actually improves
the end product by allowing nasty oils and stuff to be removed from the brew.
I have been using the 5 gallon carboys for secondarys.
So, what the general opinion? Should I convert the 7 into a terrarium? Is
a 5 gallon only method better? I'm I totally confused?
Kevin Carpenter
kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 90 9:07:57 CDT
>From: jlf@poplar.cray.com (John Freeman)
Subject: Homebrew Digest #533 (November 08, 1990) (fwd)
>
> Almond - Might go well to make a real nut brown ale
> Peach
> Strawberry
> Coffee/Kahlua - Might be real interesting in a stout
> Peppermint
>
> Does anyone out there have any experience using any of these extracts
> for beer brewing? Any reason that it might not be a good idea to give
> it a try?
>
I've tried adding Cherry extract to pale ale before to achieve a
quick and dirty Cherry ale, with disappointing results. The
cherry extract seemed to need sugar to bring out the cherry flavor,
but there is little sweetness left in ale for that. Some malto-
dextrin might help here. In fact, it seemed kind of bitter.
This doesn't mean it can't be done, but maybe I chose the wrong kind
of beer to flavor or the wrong kind or extract or something.
If I were to experiment again, I'd use an eye dropper to measure the
extract, and 2 liter pop bottles to bottle it in (not wanting to waste
a whole batch of beer).
------------------------------
Date: 8 Nov 90 14:39 -0700
>From: mailman%99@hp5800.desk.hp.com
Subject: Homebrew Digest #533
Your message could not be delivered to:
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as they could not be found at the destination location.
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This message was created on computer: GLDEDP2
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 90 08:31:41 -0800
>From: krweiss@ucdavis.edu
Subject: Irish Moss, aging time
Mike Charlton notes:
> irish moss not only attacks large protein
> molecules, but medium sized ones as well. George Fix warns never
> to exceed to maximum reccomended use of any clarifying agent.
Damned if I didn't go back and discover that the beers with the best head
formation/retention I've had were a couple of batches brewed when I ran out of
Irish moss. On the other hand, I don't like chill haze. Has anyone out there
got practical experience with Polyclar that they could share with me? How is
it used, and what were the results?
On another note, I've noticed that the batches I've brewed with Wyeast
cultures show radical improvement upon aging. When I was using dry yeasts I
tried to consume my beer between weeks two and six of its life in the bottle.
Less than two weeks and it was kind of raw. More than six provided no
improvement, and sometimes some loss of quality. With the Wyeast, six weeks is
looking like a minimum bottle conditioning time. Any comments or contradictory
data?
It's winter... Good time to brew!
Ken Weiss
krweiss@ucdavis.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 90 11:27:11 -0600
>From: "J.U.J." <juj33548@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #534 (November 09, 1990)
Thanks for sending me the HOMEBREW Digest. But I am not able to follow
this yet...This is not we thought it would be. When my brother and I are able
to make brew...we will recontact you...As for now please suspend our subscriptions...We will request it again later as we get more expirienced....Thanks
juj33548@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 90 12:28:23 -0500
>From: dbreiden@mentor.cc.purdue.edu
Subject: Coriander recipe(s)
All this talk about coriander and beer has got me intrigued. The comments that
one kind soul (so sorry I didn't get his/her name for proper attribution) made
regarding taste has got me very intrigued. So now I'd like a little info on
how to use the stuff in beer. Does one just boil the seed whole--treat it like
hops that is? Or does one grind it? If using coriander, is it wise to omit
hops? Those of you who have used it: Please send your recipe/directions. I'll
remember you as I brew.
And about all this blow-off stuff (Drillin Corks . . .): this issue has had me
*worrying* a bit lately. But I shall soon run out to a hardware store and look
for good quality tubing to stuff in the mouth of my carboy. I thunk up a method
involving 1/4" hose and a pressure relief in case of clogging, but it requires
a two whole stopper. Also, I haven't tested this yet. I will sometime. If it
works, I'll inform the world. If it fails miserably, no one will ever know :-).
Cheers....Danny Boy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 90 10:05:49 pst
>From: Dan Needham <dann@hpsadlb.hp.com>
Subject: Grain in the boil?
Full-Name: Dan Needham
I have been an extract brewer for a couple of years. I've usually used
1 to 4 lbs. of cracked grain in each batch. The grain was steeped at
150 degrees F for about an hour before sparging with 160 degree water.
The result was then mixed with malt extract + hops during the boil.
I bought some supplies from the Oak Barrel in Berkeley, CA last night and
the fellow at the counter told me I'd been wasting a lot of time. He said
to throw the grain in the last 5 minutes of the boil for the same result.
He also said don't worry about a grinder to crack the grain -- just quick
pulse it in my blender about 5 times.
I'll give this experiment a try, but I'd like to hear peoples comments on
this different procedure. I realize I won't get additional sugar from the
grain, but if the result tastes as good with less labor I'll try it. Note
that the fellow who told me this has run the business for a while and I
believe teaches classes on brewing.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 90 11:23:27 MST
>From: sandven@hooey.unm.edu
Subject: Re: Drillin' a hole
Thanks for all of the replies, sounds like a lot of people have had this
problem... I followed Chip Hitchcock's advice, walked the seventy yards to
the chem department, poked around the shop and found a drill press set up
specifically for drilling stoppers - complete with every size "stopper bit"
known to mankind ;^). Couldn't have asked for anything more.
Thanks again Steve
------------------------------
Date: Friday, 9 Nov 1990 13:24:35 EST
>From: m14051@mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: U.S. approximations -> Metric
>From: Lloyd Parkes <L.Parkes@comp.vuw.ac.nz>
>
> 3 1/2 pounds Munton and Fison Stout Kit
> 3 1/2 pounds Munton and Fison amber dry malt extract
>
>All the Munton and Fison stuff over here in N.Z. is marked with
>metric measurements. I assume this is because N.Z. and Great
>Britain (where Munton and Fison are) like 90% of the world
>actually use these metric thingys :-) How much is 3 1/2 pounds?
>I assume these are American pounds, which are different from
>English pounds (the English ones are not used in England anymore
>of course).
I find many recipes like this say "3.3 pounds". The basic
conversion in the U.S. is "1 Kilogram = 2.2 pounds". This
translates into a 1.5 Kilogram can, which is a very common size
from my experience.
John "Remember, the gallons are different, too" DeCarlo
Internet: jdecarlo@mitre.org
Usenet: @...@!uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo
Fidonet: 1:109/131
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 90 11:00:18 PST
>From: Ken Buswell <kenb@hpsmeng1.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Spent Grain
Full-Name: Ken Buswell
I would like to know what other grain brewers do with there spent grain.
I've been brewing all grain beers for around 10 years now and have
experimented with using the spent grain in things like muffins and bread.
What got me started with the spent grain as a cooking ingredient
was an article in Zymurgy a few years back (I forget which issue it was in ).
Most of my spent grain ends up in the compost heap but what I have used
for baking has turned out pretty good.
If anyone out there has recipes using spent grain I would like to hear
about it.
Thanks
Ken Buswell
kenb@hpsmeng1.rose.hp.com
