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HOMEBREW Digest #0399

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HOMEBREW Digest
 · 8 months ago

This file received at Mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU  90/04/16 03:14:46 


HOMEBREW Digest #399 Mon 16 April 1990


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
Fining with gelatin (Tim Perala)
Sieben's brewpub (Chicago)... ("Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503 13-Apr-1990 1405")
scottish ale (florianb)
yeast (Pete Soper)


Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
Archives available from netlib@mthvax.cs.miami.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Apr 90 10:08:34 CDT
From: tperala@ub.d.umn.edu (Tim Perala)
Subject: Fining with gelatin

I have no experience with fining, as the few brews I have made so far have been
dark enough to make the effort useless.

I now have a very pale ale in progress. After a week in the primary two things
occured; the SG dropped from 30 to 07, and the beer separated into two layers.

The top layer is very clear (about 3 inches deep) and the rest is almost opaque.

I racked the beer and added a small envelope of Knox brand gelatin, hoping this
will help. Of course, the clear layer went away when the beer was transferred
to the clean carboy, but 24 hours later the clear top layer is back.

The little blobs of gelatin are actually quite active, travelling from top to
bottom in the carboy. (Yes, I consider fermentation a spectator sport!)

So, will the gelatin ever settle? Will my beer clear up? How long will this
take? Is filtering at bottling time recommended, or will the gelatin blobs
stick to the bottom of the carboy?

For the interested, this batch constists of

3.3# M&F light extract
1# Pale Ale malt, crushed and steeped for two hours @ 155F
.25# Crystal, cracked and steeped with pale malt
1# Dextrose
1oz Cascade (full boil)
.25oz Saaz pellets dry hopped
Added 1# additional dextrose after 48 hours.

All this in 3 gallons total volume. At racking time it tasted great!

Please indulge me on one additional point... the added dextrose.

My original SG was 30. I added the pound of corn sugar syrup after
the primary fermentation was well under way. A SG reading after
adding the sugar would have been useless. How can I calculate the
effect of the added sugar on the original gravity? For instance,
each ounce of sugar adds .XXX to the SG of one gallon of liquid.

Thanks!
- --
Tim Perala tperala@ub.d.umn.edu
Systems Programmer/Doryphore
Information Services
University of Minnesota, Duluth
(218) 726-6122

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Apr 90 11:07:14 PDT
From: "Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503 13-Apr-1990 1405" <mason@habs11.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Sieben's brewpub (Chicago)...

Just spent a few days in Chitown, which was pleasantly surprising to someone
who doesn't like cities. I finally made it to Sieben's (436 West Ontario).

They had four brews available - barley wine; lager; amber ale; and Irish ale.
I tried the latter two. The amber was good, but the Irish was GREAT! Such a
shame...they don't have doggie-bottles.

I would recommend a visit.

Gary

------------------------------

Date: 13 Apr 90 16:30:06 PDT (Fri)
From: florianb@tekred.cna.tek.com
Subject: scottish ale

In #398, Dale Veeneman inquires about authentic scottish ale.

I've been able to come close to scottish ale using Steinbart's extract,
which (I have been told by Steinbart clerks) comes from Scotland in
giant drums. They have a "tartan ale" extract which you could try.
The only complaint I have about their extract syrups is that they end up
throwing a bodacious chill haze. But in a darker ale, this won't matter.

Steinbart's address is:

F. H. Steinbart Co.
602 SE Salmon
Portland, OR 97214
503-232-8793

If you use the Wyeast Irish (#1084) liquid yeast culture, the attenuation
will go further, and the end product will be less sweet.

Florian


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Apr 90 00:22:30 EDT
From: Pete Soper <soper@maxzilla.encore.com>
Subject: yeast

>From: Enders <enders@plains.NoDak.edu>
>Subject: Yeast reuse and Wonderful smelling fermentation
> Probably the simplest way to reuse a liquid yeast culture is to culture
>the dregs from a bottle of homebrew made with the desired variety. Of course,
>if your batch goes bad (God forbid!!) you're out of luck.

I have to protest. Culturing the dregs from a bottle of beer can be
quite risky and is a hassle to do properly. The name of the game is to minimize
the number of doublings of cells that the yeast have to undergo to get the cell
concentration up. Prior to getting the concentration up is when infection can
strike. If infection organisms have the chance to multiply in a medium with
relatively few yeast cells they will get a foothold, while in a situation where
there are literally millions of hungry yeast cells per milliliter they have a
much harder time. Pictures of brewers sticking their bare hands in actively
fermenting wort provide a graphic example of this principle.
Because of this, to maintain the proper cell concentration along the way as a
culture is made from bottle dregs, you need to go through multiple starters of
increasing size. Even if this and the need for *sterile* procedures
is ignored and the dregs are just poured into a single starter this could
not be as simple as repitching.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Pete Soper 919 481 3730
internet: soper@encore.com uucp: {bu-cs,decvax,gould}!encore!soper
Encore Computer Corp, 901 Kildaire Farm Rd, bldg D, Cary, NC 27511 USA

------------------------------


End of HOMEBREW Digest #399, 04/16/90
*************************************
-------

This file received at Mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU 90/04/16 04:36:27


HOMEBREW Digest #399 Mon 16 April 1990


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
Fining with gelatin (Tim Perala)
Sieben's brewpub (Chicago)... ("Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503 13-Apr-1990 1405")
scottish ale (florianb)
yeast (Pete Soper)


Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
Archives available from netlib@mthvax.cs.miami.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Apr 90 10:08:34 CDT
From: tperala@ub.d.umn.edu (Tim Perala)
Subject: Fining with gelatin

I have no experience with fining, as the few brews I have made so far have been
dark enough to make the effort useless.

I now have a very pale ale in progress. After a week in the primary two things
occured; the SG dropped from 30 to 07, and the beer separated into two layers.

The top layer is very clear (about 3 inches deep) and the rest is almost opaque.

I racked the beer and added a small envelope of Knox brand gelatin, hoping this
will help. Of course, the clear layer went away when the beer was transferred
to the clean carboy, but 24 hours later the clear top layer is back.

The little blobs of gelatin are actually quite active, travelling from top to
bottom in the carboy. (Yes, I consider fermentation a spectator sport!)

So, will the gelatin ever settle? Will my beer clear up? How long will this
take? Is filtering at bottling time recommended, or will the gelatin blobs
stick to the bottom of the carboy?

For the interested, this batch constists of

3.3# M&F light extract
1# Pale Ale malt, crushed and steeped for two hours @ 155F
.25# Crystal, cracked and steeped with pale malt
1# Dextrose
1oz Cascade (full boil)
.25oz Saaz pellets dry hopped
Added 1# additional dextrose after 48 hours.

All this in 3 gallons total volume. At racking time it tasted great!

Please indulge me on one additional point... the added dextrose.

My original SG was 30. I added the pound of corn sugar syrup after
the primary fermentation was well under way. A SG reading after
adding the sugar would have been useless. How can I calculate the
effect of the added sugar on the original gravity? For instance,
each ounce of sugar adds .XXX to the SG of one gallon of liquid.

Thanks!
- --
Tim Perala tperala@ub.d.umn.edu
Systems Programmer/Doryphore
Information Services
University of Minnesota, Duluth
(218) 726-6122

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Apr 90 11:07:14 PDT
From: "Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503 13-Apr-1990 1405" <mason@habs11.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Sieben's brewpub (Chicago)...

Just spent a few days in Chitown, which was pleasantly surprising to someone
who doesn't like cities. I finally made it to Sieben's (436 West Ontario).

They had four brews available - barley wine; lager; amber ale; and Irish ale.
I tried the latter two. The amber was good, but the Irish was GREAT! Such a
shame...they don't have doggie-bottles.

I would recommend a visit.

Gary

------------------------------

Date: 13 Apr 90 16:30:06 PDT (Fri)
From: florianb@tekred.cna.tek.com
Subject: scottish ale

In #398, Dale Veeneman inquires about authentic scottish ale.

I've been able to come close to scottish ale using Steinbart's extract,
which (I have been told by Steinbart clerks) comes from Scotland in
giant drums. They have a "tartan ale" extract which you could try.
The only complaint I have about their extract syrups is that they end up
throwing a bodacious chill haze. But in a darker ale, this won't matter.

Steinbart's address is:

F. H. Steinbart Co.
602 SE Salmon
Portland, OR 97214
503-232-8793

If you use the Wyeast Irish (#1084) liquid yeast culture, the attenuation
will go further, and the end product will be less sweet.

Florian


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Apr 90 00:22:30 EDT
From: Pete Soper <soper@maxzilla.encore.com>
Subject: yeast

>From: Enders <enders@plains.NoDak.edu>
>Subject: Yeast reuse and Wonderful smelling fermentation
> Probably the simplest way to reuse a liquid yeast culture is to culture
>the dregs from a bottle of homebrew made with the desired variety. Of course,
>if your batch goes bad (God forbid!!) you're out of luck.

I have to protest. Culturing the dregs from a bottle of beer can be
quite risky and is a hassle to do properly. The name of the game is to minimize
the number of doublings of cells that the yeast have to undergo to get the cell
concentration up. Prior to getting the concentration up is when infection can
strike. If infection organisms have the chance to multiply in a medium with
relatively few yeast cells they will get a foothold, while in a situation where
there are literally millions of hungry yeast cells per milliliter they have a
much harder time. Pictures of brewers sticking their bare hands in actively
fermenting wort provide a graphic example of this principle.
Because of this, to maintain the proper cell concentration along the way as a
culture is made from bottle dregs, you need to go through multiple starters of
increasing size. Even if this and the need for *sterile* procedures
is ignored and the dregs are just poured into a single starter this could
not be as simple as repitching.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Pete Soper 919 481 3730
internet: soper@encore.com uucp: {bu-cs,decvax,gould}!encore!soper
Encore Computer Corp, 901 Kildaire Farm Rd, bldg D, Cary, NC 27511 USA

------------------------------


End of HOMEBREW Digest #399, 04/16/90
*************************************
-------

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