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HOMEBREW Digest #0348
This file received at Mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU 90/01/31 08:57:17
HOMEBREW Digest #348 Wed 31 January 1990
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
ALL GRAIN -> EXTRACT conversion? (ROSS)
brewing recipe index stack (Mark Stevens) <stevens@stsci.edu>
The Perfect Lager (Norm Hardy)
Dry Hopping (John Polstra)
Source of keg parts (drutx!homer)
Steam Beer (Wayne Allen)
keg parts and steam beer (Marty Albini)
Homebrew Digest #347 (January 30, 1990) (Stuart Crawford)
Ta Ta for now ("2645 RUTH, GUY R.")
Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
Archives available from netlib@mthvax.cs.miami.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 08:38 EST
From: ROSS@mscf.med.upenn.edu
Subject: ALL GRAIN -> EXTRACT conversion?
Date sent: 30-JAN-1990 08:32:20
I am a malt extract brewer and would like to make some beers where the only
recipes I have are designed for all-grain brewers.
If I know that a particular recipe calls for :
x pounds of malted barley
y pounds of wheat
Original gravity = 1.xxx
... is there any particular formula for converting this into pounds
of extract needed.
--- Andy Ross ---
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 09:15:59 EST
From: (Mark Stevens) <stevens@stsci.edu>
Subject: brewing recipe index stack
Thanks to all those who requested a copy of the recipe index HyperCard
stack from me. If you sent a request, I replied. If you didn't get
a reply then either the message never reached me, or my reply
bounced. Send me mail again, and I'll reply ASAP.
Also, if you couldn't get the stack running, let me know. I know it
does work because several digest subscribers sent me mail saying that
they successfully decoded the stack and had it running on their
machines.
If you want me to mail the stack to you, it is possible, but you need
a copy of both the BinHex and StuffIt programs to decode it. If you
can't handle that type of file, send me mail and we'll work out other
arrangements.
Prost!
- --Mark Stevens
stevens@ra.stsci.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 90 21:01:51 PST
From: polstra!norm@hplabs.HP.COM (Norm Hardy)
Subject: The Perfect Lager
Ha, ha. I bet the title got your attention. But when lager is mentioned I
pay attention. My homebrewing goal is to make the "perfect lager". Ales are
nice but my two experiences in Germany (84 and 87) forever changed my attitudes
about beer. Currently, here is what goes in to one of my lager beers:
(1) Yeast - I use liquid yeast. WYeast 2007 and 2206 seem to work well. I've
had real good luck using and resusing something called YBL-2 which might be
identical to a WYeast product. I'm on the 6th pitch and so far so good,
but I'll probably have to chuck it or slant it next time.
(2) Ferment - a 45f refrigeration for 4-6 weeks in the primary, following by
racking and 2-3 weeks @ 40f or less. The primary carboy is a 7-gallon with
airlock (fluid level is 5.2 - 5.5 gal). The secondary carboy is a 5-gallon
full up to the neck.
(3) Storage - after bottling I keep the temperature below 50f and wait for 3-4
weeks before trying the beer. Yes, I am a patient man, but the wait is
well worth it. My picky brother, who loves Urquell and dislikes most
homebrew used the words "world class" to describe my last lager. Tempera-
ture control seems very important in getting the smooth clean taste usually
associated with a lager.
(4) Specifics - I usually aim for an original gravity of 1.040 - 1.049. Any
higher and the taste of alcohol becomes too evident for my liking. The
German style hops (Hallertau, Tettnagg, Saaz, Perle, etc) are good because
they are not too bitter (except perhaps for the Perle) and lend a nice
aroma when used in the finish. Priming sugar is 2/3 - 3/4 cup, corn sugar
boiled 10 minutes. I use Knox gelatin occasionally before bottling to
help clear things out. The mashing scheme varies, but it is usually a
step-temperature mash (like 125-150-158-168f). Sparging (rinsing) is slow
at the rate of 1 gallon every 8-12 minutes.
Any other brewers want to comment on their lagers????
Norm Hardy in Seattle
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 90 21:56:43 PST
From: polstra!jdp@hplabs.HP.COM (John Polstra)
Subject: Dry Hopping
Since I'm the one who gave such a ringing endorsement of dry hopping a
few issues ago, I guess I'd better come through now and describe how to
do it.
First of all, several folks asked what dry hopping is. Dry hopping is
the addition of unboiled hops directly to the wort in the fermenter, as
contrasted to the better-known technique of adding the hops during the
boil.
The purpose of dry hopping is to enhance the hop *aroma* of the brew.
Dry hopping produces no bitterness, and little hop flavor. But it does
produce lots of nice hop aroma.
In commercial brewing, as far as I know, dry hopping is used only in
making ales. It is standard practice in England at virtually all
breweries. In the USA, it is the way that the small craft breweries
achieve their wonderfully hoppy brews. If you live in the Pacific
Northwest, you know what I mean.
For bottled beer, the customary time to add the dry hops is when you
rack the wort to the secondary fermenter. Just put the hops into the
bottom of the carboy before you begin to siphon. Somebody asked if it
was appropriate to add the dry hops to the primary fermenter. The
answer, in my opinion, is *definitely not*. The beer should be mostly
fermented out before you add the dry hops.
If you are kegging your beer, it works well to just put the dry hops
into the keg, rather than into the secondary fermenter. To avoid
clogging anything up, I recommend enveloping the hops in a (pre-boiled)
cheesecloth sack. Another way to prevent clogging in a soda keg is to
take a stainless steel scrubbie, sanitize it, and jam it or wire it
under the opening of the metal tube that carries the liquid from the
bottom of the keg to the outlet. The idea is to make a filter that
will keep the hops away from the opening of the tube. (I've never
tried this second method.)
I have read that it takes about three weeks to get the full benefit of
the dry hops. But I've still gotten good results dry hopping in the
secondary for just a week or two.
If you are dry hopping in the secondary, you can use either leaf hops
or hop pellets. I've tried both, and they both work fine. Pellets are
easier to funnel into a carboy, and easier to wash out after you've
bottled. They disintegrate almost immediately into a fine pukey green
powder. This looks awful in the carboy, but it will settle out during
the secondary fermentation. A word of warning, though, about using
pellets: they often cause the wort to foam a whole bunch when you add
them. I think that is caused by the dissolved CO2 "preciptating" out
on the small hop particles. No big deal, it's just that you might have
to clean out your fermentation lock daily until things settle down
again. (And, of course, it might clog and make a mess.) These days I
prefer to use leaf hops, just because they don't cause foaming.
In a keg, it seems to me that pellets would cause crud and cloudiness
problems. So I'd recommend dry hops in cheesecloth for a keg.
A small amount of dry hops goes a long way. A quarter ounce of dry
hops is enough to notice, while a half ounce certainly would not be
overkill for most ales. Experiment and see what you like.
[BEGIN EDITORIAL COMMENT] We homebrewers all like hops. Our natural
tendency is to overdo it with the hops. Try to resist the temptation
to dump two ounces of dry hops into your carboy. Remember, the name of
the game in brewing is *balance*, and that is a very delicate thing to
achieve. [END EDITORIAL COMMENT]
The hops that you use should be as fresh and good-looking as possible.
Don't cheap out and use some moldy old blobs that have been sitting in
the back of the refrigerator for months. First, your risk of infection
will be greater. Second, such crummy hops can add off flavors and/or
aromas to the brew. Go ahead, splurge and buy a fresh packet of hops
just for this.
I haven't tried many different kinds of hops for dry hopping. My
favorites so far are Willamette, Goldings, Cascade, and Hallertau.
Well, that about covers it. Happy brewing . . .
- John Polstra jdp@polstra.UUCP
Polstra & Co., Inc. ...{uunet,sun}!practic!polstra!jdp
Seattle, WA (206) 932-6482
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 08:52:52 mst
From: att!drutx!homer@hp-lsd.cos.hp.com
Subject: Source of keg parts
Foxx Equipment Co in Denver and Kansas City sell parts for soda pop
type kegs. They have washers, valves, quick-connects and all other
parts need for kegs. They have advertised in Zymurgy, and sell a
homebrew keg kit and a bottle filler kit. I have bought various parts
from them and have been satisfied.
955 Decatur St Unit B
Denver CO 80204
(800) 525-2484
(303) 573-1766
421 Southwest Blvd
KC, MO 64108
(800) 821-2254
(816) 421-3600
Ask for their catalog and homebrew keg supplement.
Jim Homer
att!drutx!homer
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 10:06:28 CST
From: wa%cadillac.cad.mcc.com@mcc.com (Wayne Allen)
Subject: Steam Beer
Albert Smith writes: "I want to make a steam beer."
That's my next one, too. Here's what I'm making...
Ole Bottle Rocket (brewed on the 4th of July, American as apple pie...)
-----------------
6 lbs light dryed malt extract (or 2 x 3.3 cans your favorite)
.5 lbs toasted malt (spread on cookie sheet in 350 degree oven 10 minutes)
3/4 oz Northern Brewers pellets (boil)
1/4 oz Northern Brewers pellets (finish, 2 min. before end of boil)
1 pk. "Your favorite Lager yeast"
I've made many variations of steam beer, but simple ones like this
seem to turn out best, not to mention being easy to make.
Using the general Papazian technique: Crush toasted malt as you would
any grain, and put in ~1.5 gal. water till boil. Remove the grain and
add the extract and boiling hops. 2 min. before end, add finish hops.
Save some for the 4th. (I usually use more Northern Brewers than this,
but then, no one will eat my chili, either...)
_
W | Wayne Allen, wa@mcc.com
| MCC/CAD, 3500 West Balcones Center Dr., Austin, Tx 78759
| I really really really really really really really like girls!!!!
| Oh yeah I really really really really really really really
| like girls!!! I like'm tall!! I like'm small!! I like'm
| AAAAAAALLLLLLLL!!!!!! - Hank Williams, Jr.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 9:51:47 PST
From: Marty Albini <martya@hpsdl39>
Subject: keg parts and steam beer
>DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET REPLACEMENT PARTS FOR THE KEG VALVES?
Try:
IMI Cornelius (Americas) Inc.
One Cornelius Place
Annoka, MN
55303-1592
phone (612) 421-6120
fax (612) 422-3255
They also have a toll-free number, but I can't find it to save
my life right now. The very helpful person I've dealt with there is
Pat Burgoyne. You probably can't get parts directly from them, but
they'll give you a part number so you can order from your local
distributor (they might even tell you who that is!).
One thing to keep in mind: if your used keg is the "old
style" things get sticky. Parts availability is not perfect, and the
person at Cornelius you talk to needs to know which vintage of keg you
have.
To identify your keg, open the lid, and check if the inlet and
outlet fittings screw directly into the top (new style) or use a nut
on the inside (old style). The poppets (the spring plunger doo-dads
inside the fittings) interchange with the newer kegs, however.
If you find you have an old one, to speed things up I can give
you a copy of an exploded-view parts diagram they faxed me. E-mail and
we'll work it out. If worst comes to worst I can score parts from my
local source and mail them!
>Thanks again. Florian.
You're welcome!
Someone also requested Steam Beer recipes; my favorite is
Papazian's "The Sun Has Left Us On Time Steam Beer" in CJOHB. I have
made several batches of this, and it seems to be appreciated even by
Bud Lite drinkers. Extremely good at the end of a long, hot summer
day.
- --
________________________________________________Marty Albini___________
"Thank god for long-necked bottles, the angel's remedy."--Tom Petty
phone : (619) 592-4177
UUCP : {hplabs|nosc|hpfcla|ucsd}!hp-sdd!martya
Internet : martya%hp-sdd@hp-sde.sde.hp.com (or @nosc.mil, @ucsd.edu)
CSNET : martya%hp-sdd@hplabs.csnet
US mail : Hewlett-Packard Co., 16399 W. Bernardo Drive, San Diego CA 92127-1899 USA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 90 10:48:49 PST
From: Stuart Crawford <stuart@ads.com>
Subject: Homebrew Digest #347 (January 30, 1990)
I have three questions:
1. I'm making my first attempt at dry hopping, and have added the hops to the
secondary fermenter. My plan is to leave the wort in the secondary for
about a week, then I'll bottle. Should I attempt to filter out the hops
prior to bottling, or is it sufficient to assume that I'll leave enough
behind after racking that I needn't worry?
2. I always thought that the presence of roasted barley was the characteristic
that distinguished a porter from a stout, yet when I look in that new book
of award winning homebrew recipes (I forget the exact title), I see that
some of the porter recipes have significant quantities of roasted barley.
What *really* distinguishes a porter from a stout?
3. I tasted some Sierra Nevada porter over the weekend---fantastic! Anyone
have a recipe that comes close to this brew?
Thanks in advance,
Stuart Crawford
------------------------------
Date: 30 Jan 90 11:59:00 MST
From: "2645 RUTH, GUY R." <grruth@sandia.gov>
Subject: Ta Ta for now
Wednesday January 31 is my last day here at Sandia so I will not be able to
continue receiving this digest (boo hoo). I've enjoyed reading all the sub-
missions and have learned a great deal.
If anyone has any news for me aside from what appears in the digest please
forward it to: <73707.2262@COMPUSERVE.COM>.
Bye,
Guy
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #348, 01/31/90
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