HOMEBREW Digest #0094

eZine lover (@eZine)

Published in 

HOMEBREW Digest

 · 7 months ago

 
HOMEBREW Digest #94		             Mon 06 March 1989 

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES 
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator 

Contents: 
  Wyeast #1098 (Pete Soper) 
  boring mashing details (Pete Soper) 

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Date: Sun, 5 Mar 89 17:39:52 PST 
From: ephram@violet.berkeley.edu 

I have heard refrence to a "roller" type of grain crusher.  I assume that this 
is in fact 2 steel cylinders set next to each other (like the hot dog cookers 
@ the game).  The rollers have some adjustment for size of gap between them 
and they rotate "towards each other" to form a flow through the gap between 
the rollers.  My question is 

1) Do I want to build such a grinder (crusher) or should I just buy a corona 
grain mill? 

2) supposing that I decided to create one of these milling machines what are 
the specs?  in specific, What gap range should I allow for between the rollers? 

3) What materials should the rollers be made out of?   

4) What speed(s) should I allow the rollers to rotate at?  

5) What diamater roller should I use?   

6) What day is today? 

7) Am I on the right network?   

8) Do I really want to undertake this project?  

9) Who am us anyway? 

Inquiring minds want to know! 

We must prevent those commies from compromising the integrity of our  
precious bodily fluids.      -Gen. Jack D. Ripper 
Ephram Cohen                              ephram@violet.berkeley.edu 
466 44th St.  #1                          3210 Tolman Hall 
Oakland, CA 94609                         Berkeley, CA  94720 

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Date: Sun, 5 Mar 89 21:12:08 est 
From: Pete Soper <soper@maxzilla.encore.com> 
Subject: Wyeast #1098 

  The ale I recently made with the new Wyeast type 1098 ("Whitbread") came 
out very estery. At bottling time there was a very strong smell of apple and 
banana. I've experienced a touch of estery aroma at bottling before. This was 
VERY much stronger and there was even a fruity flavor in the beer. After two 
weeks the aroma is less pronounced but still quite noticeable. The fruity 
flavor is gone. In other words, the serious defects have subsided 8^) 
  Boring details: Fermentation at 61 degrees for the first 3 days and 65 
degrees for the last 2. Original gravity 1.051, terminal gravity 1.019. Packet 
dated Dec 16 '88, swelled fully in 24 hours at 61 degrees. Three quarters of 
packet pitched into 1 pint starter. Starter kept at 61 degrees for 3 days 
before pitching to wort. The one thing unusual about this batch was that the 
sugar rest was 156 degrees for 30 minutes. This had two obvious effects. The 
terminal gravity was high, as expected, and there was very little hot and cold 
break, despite an 80 minute, vigorous boil. 
  I have the remaining 1/4 packet and am considering using it in one more  
batch. The sugar rest temp will obviously be lower but I'm also considering 
doing the fermentation at 68-70 degrees too. 

--Pete Soper 

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Date: Sun, 5 Mar 89 21:42:07 est 
From: Pete Soper <soper@maxzilla.encore.com> 
Subject: boring mashing details 

  I've made four batches of beer with Briess 6 row pale malt now and played 
with mash temperatures to measure the effect on final gravity. Here is what 
I got: 

1. 150-148 degrees, 2 hours  --> 1.048 / 1.006   #2007 Wyeast 
2. 156-156 degrees, 1/2 hour --> 1.051 / 1.019   #1098 Wyeast 
3. 152-151 degrees, 1 hour   --> 1.049 / 1.012   Doric Ale Yeast (dried) 
4. 152-151 degrees, 1 hour   --> 1.045 / 1.010   #2007 Wyeast 

  First temp, starting, next after end of sugar rest in a highly insulated 
mash tun. Acid rest was 15 minutes at 115 degrees and protein rest was 30 
minutes at 124 degrees in each case. Transition from protein to sugar rest 
took 2-3 minutes. Hot water infusion was used for everything except 168 
degree mash off, which was done on the stove top in an average of 15 minutes. 
  Several weeks ago I asked for tips for calibrating my thermometers to be 
accurate at mashing temps. I got nothing from you gentlepersons on this 
but borrowed a copy of Miller's new book which suggests use of a fever 
thermometer to very accurately indicate temps around 100 degrees (using a 
water bath). This worked well and I now use grease pencil marks on my 
thermometers like "+2" and "+0" to indicate what I have to add to a reading 
for correction. 

Pete Soper, Encore Computer Corp, 901 Kildaire Farm Rd., bldg D 
Cary, North Carolina  27511     USA      phone   1 919 481 3730 
arpa: soper@encore.com (129.91.1.14) 
uucp: {talcott,linus,bu-cs,bellcore,decvax,necntc}!encore!soper 

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