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HOMEBREW Digest #0103
HOMEBREW Digest #103 Fri 17 March 1989
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Finings (Andy Newman)
specialty grains in extract brewing (Jim McCrae)
Book Review, Geordie Products response (rogerl)
To mhalley (Darryl Richman)
Brewing in Plastic (Mike Fertsch)
Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr@hplabs.hp.com
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Date: Thu, 16 Mar 89 11:38 EST
From: Andy Newman <NEWMAN@Venus.YCC.Yale.Edu>
Subject: Finings
Greetings:
Spring is just around the corner (gee...what a pleasant thought!) and
I am about start brewing some lighter beers. (Dark beer when it's
cold, light (colored) beer when it's warm....personal quirk of mine)
The lighter beers are going to force me to come to grips with an
ongoing problem I've been having trying to get my beers (almost
exclusivly English-style ales) to clear. I brew most of my beer
with little or no corn sugar but usually from either canned or dry
extract. The beer invariably contains visible suspended yeast
when I bottle it (7 to 12 days from initial pitch of yeast). Within
one to two weeks, the beer will have cleared ALMOST entirely of
yeast matter. It usually seems clear until I hold it up next to a
bottle of commercial ale at which point it becomes apparent that it
is still somewhat dull colored. It never gets any clearer than that.
Worse yet, when I chill the beer, it devlops a very decided chill
haze.
I've experimented with a variety of clarifying agents (papain enzyme,
polyclar, Irish moss, gelatin) but can't seem to get the right
combination. My question is: Has anyone developed a generally
sure fire way to clear extract-based beers? I know there are those
who beleive that somewhat cloudy beer is acceptable, but it's
really important to me get it as clear as possible (another personal
quirk). I'd be curious to hear about anyone's experiences regarding
this topic.
-Andy Newman
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 89 10:04:19 PST
From: unet!mccrae!jimmc@Sun.COM (Jim McCrae)
Subject: specialty grains in extract brewing
My current brewing practice is confined to reasonably
sophisticated extracts. I use a lot of crystal malt, because
I really like the results. I usually add the grain along with or
shortly before the finishing hops, and occasionally I steep
them without letting them come to a boil.
My question is: does the added grain in fact go through a
limited mashing process in the wort? I'm talking about careful
addition, pre-boil or at the very end, not boiled to excess.
If this is the case, I may talk myself into trying all-grain soon.
Thanks all in advance.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 89 11:54:18 EST
From: rogerl@Think.COM
Subject: Book Review, Geordie Products response
Re: Book Review of the The Complete Handbook
of Home Brewing
by: David Miller
From: Darryl Richman
Thank-you for the review. I've been wondering about this one and it
does look like one that would have lots of good stuff in it. Again,
thanks for taking the time to submit this.
=======================================
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 89 09:54:13 est
From: Rich Simpson <paramax!simpson@multimax.encore.com>
Subject: Re: Geordie
Beer & Wine Hobby
Rich Simpson
You beat me to it! I am a regular customer of Beer and Wine Hobby and
their selection and service is the best I've had experience with.
I've tried other places. One place I requested a catalog from and
haven't received it yet and another place I waited something like 4 or
5 weeks before my order arrived.
Beer and Wine Hobby has yet to let me down. And they have just about
anything you want. And the prices are very competitive. You can call
them at (617)665-8442 for a catalog. They also have a FAX number now,
so you can FAX them orders and requests. Unfortunately, I left
that at the house so I'll try and remember it and post it when I get
there.
I'll keep it short today.
Enjoy,
Roger Locniskar
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 89 18:46:46 PST
From: Darryl Richman <darryl@ism780c.isc.com>
Subject: To mhalley
Sorry about the personal mail on the list, but email refused to cooperate.
"From: <mhalley%MUN.BITNET@CORNELLC.ccs.cornell.edu>
"Subject: Guilt/delayed info/etc.
"
"To the California and New England crowds:
"
"Can any of YOU suggest sources for Geordie
"products, or must I contact the Illinois
"sources listed by Al?
I believe The Home Brewery, outside of Fontana, carries Geordie.
"I should be returning to the States between
"early June and late September. By that time
"I will be OFF the emailing list. I will
"be mostly in the coastal areas doing field
"research. Does anyone want to send me
"(by personal email) their locations that we
"might meet and exchange possibly mutually
"rewarding brewinfo?
I live in Northridge, you're welcome to give me a call either at
work (213) 453-8649 or at home (818) 893-8650. I'd be particularly
interested in talking to you about mead making! Also, I'd certainly
like to invite you to a meeting of the Maltose Falcons Home Brewing
Society. We meet on the 1st Sunday of each month at The Home Wine
and Beer Making Shop on Ventura Blvd. in Woodland Hills (818) 884-8586.
--Darryl Richman
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 89 17:41 CST
From: beehive!beckley@research.att.com
I'm on vacation until March 27, 1989. I'll respond to your mail if needed
as soon as I can.
Owen Beckley
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 89 18:14 EST
From: Mike Fertsch <hplabs!uiucdcs!meccad.RAY.COM!FERTSCH>
Subject: Brewing in Plastic
There has been some discussion recently regarding brewing in plastic
water-bottle carboys. I've heard that these plastic carboys contain
potentially toxic compounds (plastisizers and other nasty chemicals) which
can be released into fermenting beer. Apparently the acidity and the
alcohol in the wort cause the nasties to be released. The carboys are FDA
approved for water only - presumably water does not cause the plastic to
release solvents. The water-bottles here at work clearly state "Not to be
refilled with any other liquids - NSF approved for water only".
I'm not sure if the release of solvents into beer is a real effect, or if
these stories are just a way the water companies try to reduce bottle
losses. I'd play it safe, and not use them for fermenting beer. If I did
use them for beer, I'd stick to low-alcohol batches, not the Barley Wines.
On a similar topic, a collegue of mine has an interesting use for plastic
carboys. He does large batches (30 gallon) of all-grain brewing, and does
NOT use a wort chiller. He simply pours the boiling wort into plastic
carboys and puts foil over the neck. He lets the wort cool for two days in
the plastic, causing the trub to drop out. He then siphons the cooled,
trub-free wort into glass carboys, pitches his yeast, and starts
fermenting. He does not sanitize his plastic carboys - he counts on the
boiling, sterile wort to clean everything. All his fermentation is in
glass. This procedure is a bit unorthodox, but seems to work for him. He
has won several regional and national awards in competitions.
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End of HOMEBREW Digest