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To: lambic at longs.lance.colostate.edu
Subject: Lambic Digest #380 (June 28, 1994)
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 1994 00:30:14 -0600
Lambic Digest #380 Tue 28 June 1994
Forum on Lambic Beers (and other Belgian beer styles)
Mike Sharp, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
jim lillil's geueze (Aaron Birenboim)
Belgian beer judging class in a can ("Phillip R. Seitz")
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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 15:44:15 -0700
From: mole at netcom.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Subject: jim lillil's geueze
I was fortunate enough to sample jim's "lambic" (not geueze, its unbended.
dang terminal... no backspace...)
I thought it was a LOT like DeNeuve (sp?)... including a tannic
quality. Would you agree Jim? You said that the tannin character was
a fermentation product. Would you be willing to elaborate... any
theory on what creature prodeuced this???
aaron
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 22:34:37 -0400
From: "Phillip R. Seitz" <p00644 at psilink.com>
Subject: Belgian beer judging class in a can
Well, now I know how many people read JudgeNet Digest! I had at least
45 requests for copies of the class handouts, and am therefore posting
them here for all to grab. Posting here will presumably also put these
materials into the archives where people can root around for them
later. (I'm also cross-posting this to Lambic Digest at the request of
a few, largely to get it into the archives there as well.)
A few notes:
1) Formatting. The original files are in WordPerfect 6.0, and look ok
but not great. I've stripped out just about all the formatting here so
everything will fit on people's screens. If you want your handouts to
look prettier you'll have to reformat them, or pick them up from a
bulletin board. (I'll post a number to call when the formatted files
have been uploaded.) Each handout will fit easily on the two sides of
a single sheet of paper.
2) Content. Of course this is what I think, aided by the comments of
20+ BJCP judges. In a few areas you'll find the information to be
rather vague; this is because, in my opinion, nobody really knows what
the RIGHT information really is. The best example of this is in the
oud bruin handout; I still haven't tasted a good homemade example, and
don't believe anyone really knows (YET!) how to do this right. I'll be
more than happy to dump what I've got here when the right info comes along.
3) Use. As far as I'm concerned you can use this any way you want,
including distribution for classes or publication. Please keep in mind
that these materials are focussed on judging, not brewing. We'll take
care of the brewing part in due time.
I hope this helps!
Phil
**************
*****************************************************************
Belgian Beer Categories
Belgian Legal Classifications
Category S: 1.062 and above
Category I: 1.044-1.054
Category I, Sup: for lambics
Category II: 1.016-1.038 (table beers)
Category III: up to 1.016 (no alcohol beers)
Up to 40% (3/7) of grist may be made up of adjuncts. "Trappist"
and "Lambic" are controlled terms in Belgium, though the
definition for the latter is quite broad.
AHA Classifications
1) Flanders brown (1.045-1.056, 4.8-5.2% ABV, 15-25 IBU, 10-20
SRM) Slight sourness and spiciness. Deep copper to brown.
Fruity/estery. No hop flavor or aroma. Low to medium
bitterness. Low diacetyl ok.
2) Double (1.050-1.070, 6-7.5% ABV, 18-25 IBU, 10-14 SRM)
Dark amber to brown. Sweet malty, nutty aroma. Faint hop
aroma ok. Medium to full body. Low bitterness. Low
diacetyl ok.
3) Triple (1.070-1.095, 7-10% ABV, 20-25 IBU, 3.5-5.5 SRM)
Light/pale color. Light malty and hop aroma. Neutral
malt/hop balance. Finish must be sweet. Medium to full
body. Alcoholic, but best examples to not taste strongly of
alcohol.
4) Belgian ale (1.044-1.054, 4-6% ABV, 20-30 IBU, 3.5-12 SRM)
Pale color. A Belgian "pale ale". Bitterness subdued.
Light to medium body. Low malt aroma. Slight acidity ok.
Low diacetyl ok.
5) Belgian strong ale (1.063-1.095, 7-12% ABV, 20-50 IBU, 3.5-20
SRM) Pale to dark brown. Alcoholic. Can be vinous. Darker
beers are colored with candy sugar and not so much with dark
malt. Full body.
6) White (1.044-1.050, 4.5-5.2% ABV, 15-25 IBU, 2-4 SRM)
Unmalted wheat and malted barley. Oats ok. Often spiced
with coriander seed and dried bitter orange peel. Hop
flavor and aroma "noble" type desired. Low to medium
bitterness. Low to medium body. Dry. Low diacetyl ok. Low
to medium esters.
7a) Gueuze (1.044-1.056, 5-6% ABV, 11-23 IBU, 6-15 SRM)
Intensely and cleanly sour. No hop bitterness, flavor or
aroma. Effervescent. Fruity/estery and uniquely aromatic.
Malted barley and unmalted wheat. Stale, old hops used.
Cloudiness ok. Pale, often very dry. Diacetyl very low.
7b) Fruit lambic (1.040-1.072, 5-7% ABV, 15-21 IBU, no color
specs) Raspberry, cherry, peach etc., fermented and fruit-
flavored Lambic. Fruit flavor, aroma and color are intense.
Sourness predominates. Often very dry.
*****************************************************************
Belgian ales
Description
Phil's improved AHA listing: 1.044-1.054, 4-6% ABV, 20-30 IBU,
3.5-12 SRM. Pale to brown. Bitterness, hop flavor and
aroma should be noticeable, with noble or classic types
preferred. Low to medium esters. Low malt aroma,
restrained caramel or toasted malt flavor ok. Medium body.
No diacetyl or alcohol flavors. Medium carbonation.
Think of these as the Belgian ale version of a pilsner, and keep
in mind that these should be easily drinkable everyday beers, the
kind you'll have when you're planning to drink more (many more)
than one. These are generally beers of standard strength that
combine subtle Belgian-tasting yeast flavors with noticeable hop
character that is frequently pilsner-like, leaving a pleasant
lingering bitterness in the aftertaste. Subtlety, finesse and
balance are the most important factors.
Judges should also be prepared for variations, particularly mini-
versions of stronger Belgian ales. Use of spices (such as
coriander) is ok in these versions.
Brewing Method
Standard infusion or step mashing techniques are fine. Most
commercial versions use pilsner malt, a protein rest, and hops
such as Saaz, Hallertau, East Kent or Styrian Goldings, and other
classics. Creative use of yeasts and yeast/hop combinations are
good, as long as neither predominates and all are relatively
restrained. Judicious use of small amounts of caramel malts and
toasted malts such as Victory or Biscuit malt is ok, but the body
should remain light and not very sweet or satiating; the vast
majority of the grist should be pilsner malt or light extract.
Common Problems
1) Poor understanding of style. Explain it.
2) Solvent or fusel flavors. A change of yeast or lower
fermentation temperature should help.
3) Needs more hops. Subtle lingering bitterness, pleasant hop
flavor and an enticing noble hop nose all contribute to a
good example. If missing, point this out.
4) Body too full. These beers should not be satiating, but
should be "poundable". Usually a reduction in caramel malts
will help solve this problem.
Commercial examples
Rubens Gold, Celis Pale Bock
*****************************************************************
Belgian strong ales
Description
Phil's improved AHA listing: 1.062-1.120, 6-12% ABV, 16-30 IBU,
3.5-20 SRM. Pale to dark brown. Low hop bitterness and
aroma ok, should blend with other flavors. Medium to high
esters in flavor and aroma. Phenols ok. Often highly
aromatic. Spices or orange ok. Strength evident, but
alcohol flavor subdued or absent. Medium to full body,
sometimes with a high terminal gravity. Medium to high
carbonation. No roasted flavors or diacetyl.
Belgian strong ale recipes are usually formulated to show off
yeast character, with all other ingredients playing a supporting
role. The flavor may be subtly complex, but should not be
crowded. Body is comparatively light for beers of this strength,
due to use of brewing adjuncts or of pilsner malt only. High
carbonation also helps; these beers should feel like mousse on
the palate and have an impressive head. The best examples may be
noticeably strong but still have no alcohol flavor. Flemish
examples tend toward higher terminal gravities (1.025-1.050),
while Walloon versions are usually more attenuated.
Keep an eye out for Trappist clones, which according to AHA
guidelines should be submitted in this category.
Brewing method
Yeast choice is absolutely crucial, as the yeast will provide the
foundation flavors for the beer and all other ingredients should
be added to support or accentuate them. As with all beers of
this strength, high pitching rates and aggressive aeration are
necessary. Fermentation temperatures should be cool (below 65F)
to avoid creation of headache-causing fusels.
Infusion or step mashing techniques are standard procedure. Most
commercial versions use pilsner malt as a base, but many also use
substantial quantities of sugar or flaked corn as an adjunct.
Caramel, Munich and toasted malts are often used in small
quantities; roasted malts are sometimes used in very small
amounts for coloring only. All classic hop varieties are common,
but are used in small and judicious quantities. Sugars are added
in the kettle, as are spices. Many spices have delicate aromas
and should be boiled for just a few minutes, if at all. Common
choices are bitter or sweet orange peel, coriander, vanilla, and
anise.
Priming should be between 7/8 and 1 cup sugar for five gallons.
Addition of fresh yeast at bottling should assist with
carbonation; a 1-pint starter is sufficient.
Extract brewers are at no disadvantage in this category.
Common Problems
1) Solvent & banana flavors Fermentation at excessive
temperature, poor yeast health, or both. Particularly a
problem with people using Wyeast Belgian or Chimay yeasts at
temps above 62F.
2) Wrong type of orange Sunkist type orange should not be
substituted for bitter or sweet orange.
3) Insufficient carbonation Use more priming sugar, or add fresh
yeast when bottling.
Commercial examples
Corsendonk blond (8% ABV), Corsendonk brown (8% ABV), Saison
DuPont (6.5% ABV), Gouden Carolus (7% ABV), Scaldis (12% ABV),
Duvel (8.5% ABV), Brigand (9% ABV), Oerbier (7.5% ABV), Arabier
(8% ABV), Bos Keun (7% ABV), Stille Nacht (8% ABV), Pauwel Kwak
(8% ABV), Celis Grand Cru, Mateen (9% ABV)
*****************************************************************
Doubles
Description
Phil's improved AHA Listing: 1.060-1.070, 6-7.5% ABV, 18-25 IBU,
10-14 SRM. Dark amber to brown. Sweet malty aroma. Faint
hop aroma ok. Medium to full body. Malty, plum-like
flavor. Very low bitterness, no hop flavor. Medium to high
carbonation. Low esters ok. No roasted flavors or
diacetyl.
This beer focusses on malt flavors, and doubles should be malty
and sweet with a noticeable plum character. Modest alcohol
flavor is ok, as are low levels of esters, but the malt flavors
should predominate. Doubles are usually full-bodied with fairly
moussy carbonation that produces a very nice head.
Brewing method
As with all Belgian beers the base should be pilsner malt with
various amounts of caramel malts (Belgian varieties work
especially well here, including both Caramunich and Special B)
and a portions of sugar to control body (start with one pound per
5 gallons). Roasted malts can also be used for coloring, but
should not be tasted. Toasted Belgian malts contribute a
pleasantly nutty flavor, and these can be used in fairly high
quantity (+/- 2 lbs for a 5 gallon batch). Yeast choice seems to
offer some flexibility, though strains with a smooth, fruity
character complement the raisin/plum flavors of the caramel malts
better than yeasts yielding spicy flavors.
Extract brewers will not be able to use the Belgian toasted
malts, but otherwise should be able to produce a nice, malty
brew.
Common problems
1) Solvent/banana flavors Fermentation defects due to high
temperature ferments or poor yeast health seem to be the
most common problem. Cooler ferments, higher pitching rates
and more aeration should help.
2) No plum flavors Needs more caramel malts, or a switch to
Belgian varieties. Belgian Munich and Special B may be
especially helpful.
3) Excessive alcohol Even a good double will often taste like
malt with a layer of alcohol over it, but this can be
overdone. Fusels are particularly unwelcome. Reduce
fermentation temperature or the quantity of adjuncts.
4) Inappropriate carbonation Carbonation should be moussy, but
should not interfere with your ability to appreciate the
flavors. Adjustment in priming or longer bottle
conditioning may be needed.
Commercial examples
Westmalle Dubbel (6.5% ABV), Affligem Double (7% ABV),
Grimbergen Double (6.2% ABV), Steenbrugge double (6.5% ABV)
************************************************************
Triples
Description
Phil's improved AHA listing: 1.080-1.095, 7-10% ABV, 18-25
IBU, 3.5-5.5 SRM. Light or pale color. Low ester,
malt or hop aroma ok. Low hop bitterness or flavor ok.
Malt sweetness in flavor ok. Low esters ok. Medium to
full body. High carbonation. No diacetyl. Strength
should be evident; alcohol flavor ok.
Overall this is a strong, very pale beer with a relatively
neutral character. These beers should have low esters (by
Belgian standards, anyway), and comparatively light body and
flavor for their strength. Frequently they are somewhat
sweet. Alcoholic strength should be evident, followed by a
subtle mix of yeast products and hop and malt flavors. Some
commercial examples are well hopped, but most use hop
bitterness sparingly. Some spicy (phenol) character is ok.
High carbonation levels are the norm.
Brewing method
Standard infusion or step mashing techniques are used, with
grain bills usually consisting only of pilsner malt (or
light extract) and blond sugar. The comparatively light
body is achieved by substantial additions of sugar in the
kettle (several pounds per 5 gallons) and high carbonation.
Hopping levels should be kept low, with classic varieties
preferred. Some Belgian yeasts may be too estery or
aromatic for these beers, particularly as high gravity
ferments accentuate this.
One cup of sugar should be used to prime a five gallon
batch. It's a good idea to add some fresh yeast at bottling
time to help with carbonation; a 1-pint starter is
sufficient.
As with all beers of this strength, high pitching rates and
good aeration are a must. Low fermentation temperatures
(65F or lower) should be used to avoid creation of headache-
causing fusels.
Extract brewers should have no trouble making good triples
Common problems
1) Solvent flavors Fermentation temperature too high, poor
yeast health (under pitching) or both.
2) Body too full Decrease malt and increase sugar portions
of OG.
3) Insufficient carbonation Increase priming sugar, or add a
dose of fresh yeast at bottling.
Commercial examples
Brugse Tripel (9.5% ABV), Affligem Tripel (9% ABV),
Grimbergen Tripel (8.13% ABV), Steenbrugge Tripel (9% ABV)
************************************************************
White beers
Description
Phil's improved AHA listing: 1.044-1.055, 4.5-5.5% ABV, 15-
22 IBU, 2-4 SRM. Cloudy yellow color, coriander flavor
and mild acidity essential. Wheat and bitter orange
peel flavors desirable. Mild hop flavor and aroma ok.
Low to medium bitterness. Low to medium body, medium
or higher carbonation. No diacetyl. Low to medium
esters.
These beers should be average in gravity with a definitely
hazy yellow color and a dense, rich, dazzlingly white head.
May or may not have a slightly orangey aroma (due primarily
to the coriander), or mild hop aroma (preferably floral
rather than spicy). Body should be medium or a bit lighter,
and the carbonation should be reasonably aggressive.
Bitterness should be low, mild acidity is allowed, but no
alcohol flavor. Esters are ok, but shouldn't predominate.
Should be very drinkable. I prefer my white beers with lots
of coriander.
Brewing Method
All grain brews should use 50% barley malt and 50% unmalted
raw wheat, although a small percentage of oats (5-10%) can
be used to add some silkiness. Extended protein rests (45
mins-1 hour) are needed to keep the mash from turning into
glue and to allow sparging, but excessive rests cause
unwanted clarity in the finished beer. Almost any yeast
seems to work, so people should get credit for creative
choices. Since hop levels are low, the variety is
relatively unimportant. Classic varieties like Hallertau,
Saaz and East Kent Goldings are common for bittering.
Brewers should be aware that grinding raw wheat by hand is
excruciating; find someone with a mechanized mill.
Coriander in the boil is essential: use 1 gram or more per
liter of finished beer, boiled for 5 minutes or so.
Coarsely ground whole coriander and boils over 15 minutes
result in low coriander flavor. Cura ao (bitter) orange
peel is also traditional, in amounts between 0.5 and 1
gram/liter. The peel can be boiled for longer if desired,
up to about 1/2 hour. It contributes a rich herbal flavor
similar to herb tea, and does not taste of orange.
Some homebrewers add lactic acid at bottling, which
contributes acidity and helps bring out the other flavors.
Amounts up to 1 cl/liter can be ok if given adequate time
for the flavors to blend usually 1-2 months.
Extract brewers will have a hard time getting the right
haze, but otherwise are at no disadvantage.
Common problems
1) Ham aroma. Many white beers have an orangey flavor from
the coriander, some brewers use orange instead.
Boiling Sunkist type orange peels and especially
commercial dried peels imparts a ham-like aroma.
Bitter orange can do this too, particularly when boiled
for just a short period. Citrus zest can be used
without too many problems.
2) Lactic. Many Belgian whites aren't any more tart than a
normal wheat beer, and acid additions can be overdone.
In addition, acid additions need a lot of time to blend
in with the other flavors. Watch out for very acid,
dry tasting beers.
3) Carbonation. Should be more than for the average pale
ale, but not so much that it interferes with your
ability to taste the beer. My guess is that 7/8 cup
corn sugar (about 125 grams) per 5 gallons is about
right.
4) Too clear. Excessive protein rests or not enough wheat
content are usually the culprits.
Commercial examples
Celis White (4.7% ABV, 50% raw wheat, 50% malted barley),
Riva Blanche (5% ABV), Blanche de Bruges (5% ABV), Blanche
des Neiges (4.5% ABV)
************************************************************
Oud Bruins
Description
Phil's improved AHA listing: 1.045-1.060, 4.8-6% ABV, 15-25
IBU, 10-20 SRM. Red, deep copper or deep brown with
red tints. Acidic aroma with some fruitiness. Flavor
sweet, sour and fruity, esp. cherry-like. Lactic and
acetic flavors ok. Attenuation low to medium. Medium
carbonation, body medium to full. Addition of
raspberries or cherries ok, should blend with other
flavors, may provide additional acidity. Low
bitterness, no hop flavor or aroma. No diacetyl.
Most commercial examples are richly colored with a fruity,
acidic aroma and an intensely fruity, sweet and sour palate.
Sourness varies in commercial examples, many of which are
filtered and sweetened. Can become wine-like with age.
Many commercial examples include a secondary fermentation on
raspberries or sour cherries, and the flavors this
contributes should be clear and should balance with the
existing acidity and sweetness.
Brewing method
Homebrewers have yet to master this style. It appears that
basic grists include pilsner malt, caramel malts, sometimes
Vienna or Munich, and sometimes roasted malts in very small
quantities for coloring. In some cases the deep color is
achieved by long boils. Lactic and acetic bacteria provide
the necessary acidity, and these may need a long time to
achieve the proper acidity. Additions of lactic acid to
finished beer may work. When used, fruit should be added to
the secondary at 1-2 lbs per gallon of beer. Any cherries
used should be sour! Carbonation is relatively standard, so
3/4 to 7/8 of a cup of sugar should be used to prime a 5
gallon batch.
Common problems
1) Inadequate acidity Add lactobacillus culture, ferment
longer, or add lactic acid.
2) Fruit flavors thin or inappropriate Increase quantity of
fruit, or use sour fruit instead of pie cherries!
3) Too light in color Increase use of caramel malts and/or
boil time.
Commercial examples
Goudenband (5.1% ABV), Rodenbach Grand Cru (6.5% ABV),
Liefmans Framboise (5.7% ABV), Liefmans Kriek (6.5% ABV)
************************************************************
Lambic-style beers
Description
Phil's improved AHA descriptions:
Lambic and Gueuze (1.044-1.056, 5-6% ABV, 11-16 IBU, 6-15
SRM). Intensely and cleanly sour. No hop bitterness,
flavor or aroma. Very low carbonation for lambics,
high carbonation for Gueuze. Light body and high
attenuation. Brettanomyces, lactic and acetic
character predominates in aroma and flavor. Cloudiness
ok. Pale, dry. No diacetyl. No alcohol flavor.
Fruit lambic (1.040-1.072, 5-7% ABV, 15-21 IBU, no color
specs). As above except usually carbonated. Should
have noticeable color from fruit adjunct. May or may
not have fruit aroma. Intensity of fruit flavor
varies, but a lingering, pleasant fruitiness is an
asset. Brett and sourness should still be very
noticeable. Often very dry. No alcohol flavor.
Traditionally, lambic is unblended and has gone flat due to
ageing (3 years). Gueuze is a blend of old and young
lambic, and is carbonated. Similar to champagne in body and
head: very high attenuation contributes to light body, as
does the wheat content, head should be dry and stiff. Color
varies from straw to fruit-colored. Starkly dry, quite sour
(acetic ok), with prominent brettanomyces character in both
palate and aroma. This includes aromas like horse, blanket,
straw, sweat, barn, enteric. Some sourness is usually
detectable in the aroma. Should taste bright, not spoiled
or rotten. Fruit-flavored varieties can be a bit sweeter,
but the most traditional ones are still very, very dry.
Color of these fruit beers varies; there should always be
some--slightly weird colors are ok, but a nice hue is still
an asset.
Brewing method
Traditional lambics are made with malted barley and 30-40%
unmalted raw wheat in a very dilute mash (4 qts/pound)
combining infusions and decoctions in a temp. schedule that
leaves lots of undigested starches, proteins and dextrins.
These residuals are slowly and completely dismembered by the
brewing bacteria of the course of a 2-year ferment. Large
quantities of aged hops are used (about 3.5 ozs. per 5
gallons) to protection against spoilage without adding hop
flavors.
Homebrewers adapt to this as they can. Many are
experimenting with mashing schedules, though the lack of
many lambic bacteria in pure culture brews makes strict
authenticity problematic. Many homebrewers use old hops, or
bake fresh hops to accelerate ageing (try baking at 250F for
25 minutes).
According to Mike Sharp the choice of yeast is relatively
unimportant, as most yeast flavors will be overwhelmed by
the pedio and brett. Lactic acid bacteria (usually
Pediococcus damnosus) provides sourness, but work very
slowly and favor a warm (75F) environment. Continued cellar
temperature fermentation may therefore be a liability;
seasonal variation from cold to slightly warm will promote
pedio activity. Some acetic bacteria are usually present
also, at least in authentic lambics. Brettanomyces strains
(B. lambicus and B. bruxellensis) are also slow workers, but
provide the essential horsey, sweat, straw, etc. flavors.
Kloeckera apiculata is sometime used, but chiefly works to
break down proteins and contributes little to the final
flavor profile.
Common problems
1) Papazian sour-mash. Sometimes generates a rancid, rotten
flavor. You'll know it when you taste it. See TCJHB
for brewing details.
2) Too young. Flavors there, but not sufficiently
developed. Residual sweetness.
3) Sour, but no Brett. It ain't lambic if it doesn't have
that horsey, sweaty, straw-like flavor.
Commercial examples
All Cantillon and Boon beers as available. Filtered,
sweetened versions: Lindeman's Framboise, Kriek and Peche.
St. Louis gueuze is also sweetened, probably with an
artificial sweetener.
------------------------------
End of Lambic Digest
************************
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