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Mead Lovers Digest #1417
Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #1417, 12 April 2009
From: mead-request@talisman.com
Mead Lover's Digest #1417 12 April 2009
Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Orange Spiced Mead (Mike Jansen)
Re: Timing of Nutrient Additions (MeadGuild@aol.com)
Timing of Nutrient Response ("Mitchell Omichinski")
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #1416, 3 April 2009 ("Dennis Key")
Mead Style Definitions ("Mitchell Omichinski")
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Subject: Orange Spiced Mead
From: Mike Jansen <mike@7jansens.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 14:41:28 -0400
I am new to mead making, and to homebrewing as well. I made a gallon of
simple quick mead (2lb honey for 1 gallon) and it turned out "decent". I've
got 2 bottles of it left that I'm going to let age for a while.
I finished a gallon batch of an Orange Spiced Mead not too long ago. I
documented it here -> http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dcjn7txs_9f39xx96k. I
have some questions about it.
A summary of what I did is: 1 gallon, 2lb orange blossom honey. Boiled
bottled water. Simmered at ~160F with 2 whole cloves, 2 broken cinnamon
sticks, and zest from 2 oranges and 1 lemon (literally just the zest -- no
white stuff) for ~25 minutes. Added honey and juice from the 2 oranges and
1 lemon and 1/2 tsp yeast nutrient. Simmered at ~160F for another 20
minutes. Created a starter with 1 cup boiled (and cooled) bottled water, 2
lb honey, and champagne yeast, 1/2 tsp yeast nutrient.
Once starter was going and must cooled to < 100F, added starter to must.
Let ferment, covered for 4 hours. Racked to glass jug. Fermented a week.
Racked to secondary jug. Fermented another couple weeks til completely
clear. Bottled.
Every step was done sanitation-minded (one step, no-rinse sanitizer galore).
I tried this mead a couple weeks after bottling. It's aroma is very good.
Taste is VERY dry (used champagne yeast). It tastes good at first but
finishes very acidic, bitter.
Questions:
1. Any thoughts on the general ingredients, process?
2. Will aging mellow the acidic/bitter taste?
3. A local homebrew store owner said I could chill the mead for a couple
weeks to let some of the acidic stuff precipitate and then rack and
re-bottle. Does this sound reasonable? Would it improve the flavor
possibly?
Thanks,
Mike
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Timing of Nutrient Additions
From: MeadGuild@aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 17:09:12 EDT
chris herrington _asby0@yahoo.com_ (mailto:asby0@yahoo.com) wrote:
> I know when it comes to adding nutrient to a must there is a schedule. I
> know you add approximately one teaspoon (i.e. Fermax, etc) per gallon at
> the beginning but I believe there is a schedule thereafter. Does anyone
> know when the cut-off time is? When you should no longer add nutrient
> because the yeast are no longer utilizing it?
I was told by the owner of a Meadery to add one tsp per gallon
on a schedule of half upon pitching the yeast, one quarter after
12 hours, and the other quarter upon reaching the 1/3 breakpoint.
I did this for a few years and was very satisfied. The a Researcher
suggested I wait until 12 hours after pitching to add the first half
as well as adding 90 seconds of oxygen, to add on quarter after
another 24 hours, and the final quarter at the 1/3 breakpoint.
If there is a difference, it is yet to be noticeable to me.
Dick
- --
Richard D. Adams, CPA (retired)
Moderator: misc.taxes.moderated
------------------------------
Subject: Timing of Nutrient Response
From: "Mitchell Omichinski" <zippitydoodah@mts.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 19:57:46 -0500
In response to the Chris Herrington question regarding
nutrient timing, I wish to respond that I have had good results
with Scott Labatory recommendations for timing and nutrient amounts.
(http://www.scottlaboratories.com/products/fermentation/documents/2008Fermentati
on_noprice.pdf).
First rehydrate your yeast (if using dry type) with GoFerm. This provides
the yeast with the necessary nutrition for replicating before fermentation
begins in earnest. At the end of this period (end of LAG about 24 hrs after
pitching yeast) add Diammonium phosphate (DAP) at the rate of about 0.6g
per litre (honey musts are very low in natural nutrients). Next add Fermaid
K at rate of 0.5g per litre, but split it up into two additions of 0.25
g per litre. The first at 1/3 sugar deletion (OSG reduced by 1/3) and the
second at 2/3 sugar reduction. The total amount of nutrients suggested here
follows Scott's recommendations of 200 mgN/litre for musts of OSG of 1.100. I
also oxygenate the must once a day for the first three days for ten minutes
with compressed air. Oxygen is considered a nutrient until about 1/2 sugar
deletion. I would be interested if anybody has any comments on this level
of nutrition loading, as it is generally more than what I have observed
from regular contributions to this forum. I must add that my fermentations
finish up in 10 days or less since I have been using this formula.
Mitchell Omichinski
Portage la Prairie MB
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #1416, 3 April 2009
From: "Dennis Key" <dione13@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 13:05:41 -0600
> Subject: Re: ABV?
> From: MeadGuild@aol.com
> Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 17:19:53 EDT
>
> > However, don't some states only allow homebrew up to a certain
> > % alcohol content? (hence the OP's first and third questions,
> > I'm guessing.)
>
> I'm not aware of a State that allows homebrewing by statute
> that caps the ABV. But there could be a few.
I think the key point (no pun intended) is there is no limit to the alcohol
level you reach by fermentation only that I know of. Distilling or other
means of concentration (such as freezing and siphoning off what doesn't
freeze) is subject to Federal regulation, i.e. you need a Federal license to
run a still either for consumption or to make motor fuel.
Dione Greywolfe
------------------------------
Subject: Mead Style Definitions
From: "Mitchell Omichinski" <zippitydoodah@mts.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 19:31:56 -0500
To those who have an interest in mead competitions, I would like to hear
any opinions / clarifications on the differences between a show mead and a
traditional mead from the same honey varietal. The BJCP guidelines state
"Traditional Meads feature the character of a blended honey or a blend
of honeys. Varietal meads feature the distinctive character of certain
honeys. "Show meads" feature no additives, but this distinction is usually
not obvious to judges." So with respect to the additions of nutrients
for fermentation, and tannin, acid, and honey for sweetness and balance,
what if anything would distinguish a show mead from a traditional mead?
Mitchell Omichinski
Portage la Prairie MB
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End of Mead Lover's Digest #1417
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