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Mead Lovers Digest #1281
Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #1281, 21 September 2006
From: mead-request@talisman.com
Mead Lover's Digest #1281 21 September 2006
Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #1280, 17 September 2006 ("Eric Uhrhane")
Re: MLD #1279, 11/9/06 Metheglins, sweetening melomels (Michael Faul)
RE: Mead Lover's Digest #1278, Herbal Meads? (Michael Faul)
herbal meads ("Chuck")
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #1280, 17 September 2006 ("Jim Fleming")
Re: Dry Melomels......No matter what ("Kevin Morgan")
Correction: Valhalla Mead Only Competition ("David Houseman")
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Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #1280, 17 September 2006
From: "Eric Uhrhane" <uranium@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 15:14:19 -0700
> Subject: Re: Dry Melomels...No Matter What
> From: Phil <dogglebe@yahoo.com>
> Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 19:49:19 -0700 (PDT)
>
> Try adding some potassium sorbate at the end to stop
> fermentation. Then you can add your fruit, and
> additional honey, to taste.
Careful, there! Potassium sorbate doesn't actually stop fermentation.
In fact, if you add it to an active fermentation, you'll get nasty
geranium-tasting mead. *First* you have to stop the fermentation [by
sulphiting, chilling, or filtering]. Then, if you didn't filter,
wait for the mead to drop clear, and rack off the lees. If at that
point you see no signs that the racking restarted the fermentation,
you can add potassium sorbate to prevent any new fermentation, and you
may safely sweeten your mead to taste.
Eric
------------------------------
Subject: Re: MLD #1279, 11/9/06 Metheglins, sweetening melomels
From: Michael Faul <mfaul@rabbitsfootmeadery.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 20:38:35 -0700
> Subject: Re: MLD #1279, 11/9/06 Metheglins, sweetening melomels
> From: Arthur Torrey <Arthur_Torrey@comcast.net>
> Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 23:08:07 -0400
>
> Well Len, they can be good, I haven't tried the ones you mention, but
> they might be OK. I would point out that the "traditional" name for
> herbal meads was "Metheglin" which some sources I've seen suggest may be
> a root of the word "Medicine" (because of similar tastes?) and were
> intended in at least some cases for medicinal use as a way to preserve
> the medical virtues of herbs for times when they weren't in season.
> Taste was at best a secondary consideration.
Metheglin is the Welsh root word for medicine..
------------------------------
Subject: RE: Mead Lover's Digest #1278, Herbal Meads?
From: Michael Faul <mfaul@rabbitsfootmeadery.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 20:44:12 -0700
>>Subject: RE: Mead Lover's Digest #1278, Herbal Meads?
> 2. Mechanical ....
> from all that I've read (I haven't tried them) Also many folks have
> said that they filter out some of the taste along w/ everything else.
>
Unless you filter at or below .01 micron you stand virtually no chance
of stripping any of the aroma or taste from mead.
I have done several tests and used gas cromatograph to see the results
and there is no difference.
Mike
- --
Rabbit's Foot Meadery & Red Branch Cider Co.
Award Winning Mead & Hard Apple Cider
http://www.rabbitsfootmeadery.com
------------------------------
Subject: herbal meads
From: "Chuck" <wintermead@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 10:05:59 -0500
In the "venerable Mead Lovers Digest" number 1278, Len Wenzel"
lenwenzel@cogeco.ca asked:
> Lately I have been thinking of what herbal meads might be like, most
> especially thyme, and tarragon. Thyme has a clean scent that is very
> aromatic, and tarragon to me seems very much like licorice with a citrus
> overtone. Has anyone had experience with either of these herbs in a
> mead? How much is enough, how much is overpowering? My aim I guess is to
> infuse a aromatic quality to the mead, along with a decent taste.
I've made a thyme mead, and I've made meads that had tarragon as one of the
ingredients. I've also used basil flowers and just about every herb in my
extensive herb garden, some of which are marjoram, thyme, sage, anise,
fennel seeds (zowie! Lot's of licorice!), rosemary, coriander, various mints
and, of course, tarragon.
A little bit of fresh herb goes a long, long way.
My method is to make mildly flavored straight mead (i.e. clover and/or
light-colored wildflower honey), and once it is fermented out, but not yet
clear, add the de-stemmed herbs. My meads all begin at 1.100 so when
fermented out are at or about 14% ABV. I trust that that level of alcohol
will prevent any bacteria that might reside on the herbs from taking hold
and I have never had an infection using this method. And since I do not use
pesticides in my gardens, that isn't a problem either.
How much to use? Start with 50 grams per gallon. Wait a couple of weeks, and
then taste/smell. You can always add more, but once it's added, you can't
take it back. BTW, the basil flower mead had wonderful aroma and a horrible
taste. However, it makes a wonderful marinade and whenever I want to add an
intriguing aroma a couple of ounces blended in does the trick.
Chuck Wettergreen
Geneva, IL
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #1280, 17 September 2006
From: "Jim Fleming" <flemingjim1953@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 23:04:11 -0400
Thanks Dan for the wonderfully warm welcome and the nice informative
article about "JAO" see...? we're a quick study! ;)
Now for the info, ugh!
Well, we did the first racking, and wow! was I frustrated and
disappointed with both myself and the results!
First of all... When I went to get the gallon jug to siphon off the
clear mead, it was rather dark, and there were a couple of obstacles
in my way to get back from where the mead was being stored. As I
negotiated my way back thru the obstacles, I didn't realize the mead
was being shaken somewhat. ergg!
So we waited 24 hours to see what would happen. Not much at all,
needless to say. I decided I wanted to get the Mead off of the "gross
lees" and we went ahead and racked it. Well, as you might imagine, the
large stuff stayed in the glass jug. But I think while I was holding
the tube near the top of the lees, I got it too close and quite a few
of the expired little yeasties siphoned over into the new and clean
jug...
I almost forgot the worst part... While I was fiddling with the hose
in the top jug, the end of the hose in the jug on the floor started
creeping up and out of the jug, unbeknownst to me... AGH!!! I lost a
few ounces of the precious stuff on the floor of our porch... big ugly
frown face goes here: :(
It's been about 24 hours since the racking, and as near as we can tell
the worst of the yeast has settled, but OMG is the mead cloudy!! How
long does anyone 'guestimate' it'll take to clear up? Should I use
pectin enzyme, or egg whites or whatever to assist in clearing?
We hereby invite expressions of sympathy, and encourage tips about
never moving the carboys, roughly, gently or otherwise...?
Thanks, everyone...
Cheers,
Jim and Morisa
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Dry Melomels......No matter what
From: "Kevin Morgan" <kmorgan1@localnet.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 21:42:53 -0400
I made many melomels, some dry, some sweet, and most some where in-between.
If I were you, and wanted a sweeter Mel, I would leave the basic recipe as is
but, change the yeast to something like Wyeast 1056 or SafAle 56.
These beer yeasts have a much lower Alc. tolerance........Kevin
------------------------------
Subject: Correction: Valhalla Mead Only Competition
From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman@verizon.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 18:22:43 -0400
Unfortunately I picked up an old file from the original posting when I
posted the most recent notice of the Valhalla Mead Only Competition. Since
then the organizers have clarified that only one 12oz bottle, two 6oz
bottles or one 750ml bottle are required for this competition; so long as
there is at least 12oz of mead to judge.
David Houseman
Judge Coordinator
------------------------------
End of Mead Lover's Digest #1281
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