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Mead Lovers Digest #0996
From: mead-request@talisman.com
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Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #996, 26 February 2003
Mead Lover's Digest #996 26 February 2003
Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor
Contents:
RE:Eucalyptus honey ("Don Van")
Subject: 303 SS for food use? (Michael Kaiser)
Mead Day feedback ("Chris Eidson")
Siphon Starters ("Wallinger")
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #995, 21 February 2003 (Scott Dumont)
Re: 303 SS for food use? (Ross McKay)
Force Carbonating ("Matt E")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: RE:Eucalyptus honey
From: "Don Van" <dvanv@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 14:39:12 -0800
My recommendation for Eucalyptus honey is save it for toast, but don't
use for mead. Some of the worst meads I have tasted are from
Eucalyptus. It was kind of reminiscent of Menthol-Eucalyptus cough
drops. There are just too much strong oils(or flavors) in this honey.
My experience is the best honey are the milder honeys.
Don
------------------------------
Subject: Subject: 303 SS for food use?
From: Michael Kaiser <kaiseriron2@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 15:53:42 -0800 (PST)
Dick,
There shouldnt be a problem using 303 SS for food contact, as it does not
contain anything detrimental to anyones health, due to leeching of
alloying components. But I wouldnt use 303 for food contact, as it tends
to pit and rust (stainless means just that, it stains LESS ;) at the
points of sulphur inclusions.
303 has sulphur added to improve machineability (it cuts better), and
303SE has selinium added rather than sulphur. (the pitting and staining
are greatly reduced, due to seliniums inert properties)
303 is not available in sheet form, just dimensional stock. So, you
probably wont be making a carboy out of it ;) I would use 404 stainless,
and not worry about a thing.
Mead and metal...........drool...........
Michael Kaiser
=====
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Please visit: http://www.fairiefestival.net
------------------------------
Subject: Mead Day feedback
From: "Chris Eidson" <eidsonc@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 03:23:40 +0000
Just thought I would inquire if anyone has sampled their "Official Mead Day"
mead yet. Being the impatient type, I bottled mine on the 02/04/03 and at
this point it has turned out to be quite tasty (12# Huckleberry honey, 13#
blueberries, .5 oz sliced ginger, yeast nutrient and champagne yeast).
Anyone else have results to report yet?
Chris Eidson
Birmingham, AL
------------------------------
Subject: Siphon Starters
From: "Wallinger" <wwallyz@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 08:07:10 -0600
I admit that I don't get through every digest, so forgive this post if
it is redundant. Regrading a siphon starter for a one gallon batch... I
purchased some time ago (and darn if I can't remember where) just such a
device which works extremely well. It is elegant in its simplicity.
The device has a stopper the size of the mouth of the jug with two holes
in it. A dip tube is run through one hole which should basically touch
the bottom of the vessel. The tubing you use for racking is attached to
the top of the dip tube on the top side of the stopper. A very short
tube is placed through the other hole, the bottom end of which sits just
below the stopper itself. When this contraption is placed in the mouth
of the jug, with the stopper sealing the mouth, you simply blow into the
short tube to pressurize the contents through the longer tube and out
the jug.
If you want to get fancy you can drill a hole in the dip tube a half
inch or so above the bottom and use a wee stopper in the bottom. That
allows you to rack from just above any sediment in the jug.
Wade Wallinger
Kingwood TX
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #995, 21 February 2003
From: Scott Dumont <scott@dumont.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 10:59:45 -0500
At 02:15 PM 2/21/03 -0700, you wrote:
> Re: Dry ice (Phil)
>
>------------------------------
>
>Subject: Re: Dry ice
>From: Phil <dogglebe@yahoo.com>
>Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 16:08:20 -0800 (PST)
>
>
> > hay any one eve used dry ice in making mead i was
> > thinking of usling it to
> > clear the oxigen out of the carboy befor i put the
> > must in . and i might be
> > handy to chill a mead to make the lees settel out .
> > any ideas experences on
> > this ?
>
>There's no reason to purge the air out of the primary
>fermenter. In fact, you need to aerate the must for
>it to ferment.
>
>Dry ice has been discussed in rec.crafts.brewing. No
>one reccomends using it as it's not as clean as one
>might think. Sometimes it containd dirt and oils.
>Putting dry ice into an empty carboy may cause it to
>brerak.
>
>Phil
>
>=====
>visit the New York City Homebrewers Guild website:
>http://www.homebrewersguild.org
>
>------------------------------
But here's what I do to get around that...
If you have CO2 gas (essentially the same as dry ice in liquid form under
pressure.
And a regulator, same set us as for kegging.
You can purge your secondaries and bottles when filling.
I've been doing this for a while with great results.
I never purge the primary though for the above stated reasons.
And you don't have to worry too much about the cleanliness of the gas.
You we're going to put it into your beer anyways!
The CO2 gas is heavier than the surrounding atmosphere,
so it drops to the bottom of the carboy and pushes everything else out the top.
Try it sometime, besides it gives you one more excuse to go out and buy a
kegging set-up.
------------------------------
Subject: Re: 303 SS for food use?
From: Ross McKay <rosko@zeta.org.au>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 18:19:02 +1100
In Mead Lover's Digest #995, Dick Dunn asks:
>Anybody know enough of the metallurgy/rules to know whether type 303
>stainless is OK for food contact (including, obviously, fairly-acid
>liquids like fruit juices, and ethanol:)? I know that 304 is OK, and
>I know that 303 is basically the same additives but a slightly different
>balance to make it machine better...but I can't find anything on 303 for
>food use.
I asked an Aussie craft brewer (David Lamotte) about this, because he
has a fair bit of knowledge in this area. He says:
:303 Grade is just a machining version of 304.
:
: From the spec on http://www.assda.asn.au/page14.html, the High Carbon,
:and Sulphur means that it would be easy to machine, but a bugger to
:weld. It would also lower the corrosion resistance a bit.
:
:Hence I would be very surprised to see it used for food vessels. It
:would be mainly used for hydraulic fittings and other machined parts.
:
:There is some other interesting (but only slightly technical) guff at
:http://www.assda.asn.au/wineind.html.
Hope this helps.
cheers,
Ross.
- --
Ross McKay, WebAware Pty Ltd
Make beer, not war.
------------------------------
Subject: Force Carbonating
From: "Matt E" <oldantucker@mcleodusa.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 18:44:32 -0600
Hi all,
I've been trying to find some info. on how to force carbonate. I've
tried the traditional method on a few occasions with some success,
however I don't like the mess and headache.
Could someone please fill me in on any resource material thats available
and what type of equipment I need.
thanks,
Matt Emberton
------------------------------
End of Mead Lover's Digest #996
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