Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
Mead Lovers Digest #0923
From: mead-request@talisman.com
Errors-To: mead-errors@talisman.com
Reply-To: mead@talisman.com
To: mead-list@talisman.com
Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #923, 24 April 2002
Mead Lover's Digest #923 24 April 2002
Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Prune melomel ("Steve Meng")
Question about Banana Mead (Charles Nelson)
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #922, 22 April 2002 (Christopher C Carpenter)
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #922, 22 April 2002 (Belinda Messenger)
Re: Acid Blend (Jack Stafford)
re: Cyser Clearing (Dick Dunn)
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #922, 22 April 2002 (JayAnkeney@aol.com)
hydromels, honeyjack? (fszak)
RE: Mead Lover's Digest #922, 22 April 2002 ("Kummi's PC")
Re: Length of initial fermentation? (Melinda Merkel Iyer)
Sherry yeast, and other good mead yeasts? (Melinda Merkel Iyer)
NOTE: Digest appears when there is enough material to send one.
Send ONLY articles for the digest to mead@talisman.com.
Use mead-request@talisman.com for [un]subscribe/admin requests.
Digest archives and FAQ are available at www.talisman.com/mead. There is
a searchable MLD archive at hubris.engin.umich.edu/Beer/Threads/Mead
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Prune melomel
From: "Steve Meng" <smeng@kih.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 12:33:37 -0400
Has anyone used prune juice? How did it turn out?
------------------------------
Subject: Question about Banana Mead
From: Charles Nelson <sweetswede@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:44:20 -0700
Acturus,
Sorry to be posting this to the list, but I looked all over your web
site and couldn't find your email address. You can write me directly at
sweetswede@earthlink.net. I am interested in your Banana mead and the end
results. I remember I wrote you about this over a year ago and now I'm
wondering about the results. How about some details??? Thanks.
Charles Nelson
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #922, 22 April 2002
From: Christopher C Carpenter <chris.carpenter@ndsu.nodak.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:36:53 -0500
- --On Monday, April 22, 2002 9:35 AM -0600 mead-request@talisman.com wrote:
> OK.. now this confuses me. When I first started on the list, I was more
> on
>> this thought level, for I have always strived to achieve the "Art" in the
>> "Science", but what seemed to be concensus is that acids are added
>> because yeast, especially Mead Yeasts, need an acid environment to thrive
OK...Thank you all for the GREAT answers to this question. You have put me
back on the right track, and I will start adding acid fruit juices to
counter too much sweet at the end to acheive the Art in the Science. It
feels better this way.
If anybody feels my approach is a little less than Kosher to the meadmaking
process, let me explain. As I try to re-create true medieval mead, I do
not believe that they used a scientific approach on the by and large. They
made Mead as a way to preserve leftover autumn harvest, and as such, it was
dump what you had in a tub. They didn't (mind, this is MY theory)float
eggs (a stale egg will float in water), they added a specific tub o honey
into a certain tub, and added what they had leftover (this also happened in
late spring to get rid of dried fruits and levftover honey from the prior
year). The problem with this is that it is oral tradition, just as ancient
music and dance was, and thus not provable to "period Police". I hope this
doesn't rile anybody up, but I would like to hear of other people who use a
Vernacular approach to mead making as this is, and even start some
conversation on peoples less than conventional approach to meadmaking.
Chris Carpenter
PS. just for the naysayers, please answer this simple question, why would
people who knew nothing of bacteria use sterilization techniques??
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #922, 22 April 2002
From: Belinda Messenger <davispigeon@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:02:35 -0700 (PDT)
> Subject: Cherry Vanilla Mead
> From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr@bellsouth.net>
> Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 11:14:39 -0400
>
> Subject: use of canned fruit puree?
> From: DarlaneL@aol.com
> Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 14:31:02 EDT
>
I am in the process of bottling my second batch of
cherry vanilla melomels, so I thought I'd respond to
both of these posts.
I have used both vanilla beans and vanilla extract in
my cherry melomels and while they are VASTLY different
going in, I haven't noticed a difference at bottling.
Sorry, David, I've only used fresh cherries not dried,
so can't give you any advice there. But, be warned,
cherries are QUITE acidic...I had to add gypsum to
both batches since they had a very tart
backbite/aftertaste (despite being sweet).
AS to using fruit puree...my favorite melomel was one
made with raspberry puree. I did have to use pectic
enzyme to get it to clear. I'd go ahead and use the
cherry puree despite the haze issue...it's a lot
tidier in the carboy without all the cherry skins and
pits, and you can always add pectic acid to clear it.
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Acid Blend
From: Jack Stafford <sunbus@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 16:30:59 -0700
BillPierce@aol.com wrote:
>...
> Acid blend is also the answer to Pearl Warzecha's question about how to
> reduce the cloying quality of her sweet mead. It is available from many
> winemaking and homebrewing suppliers.
What is the answer to a fermented mead which is too acid?
The acid test kit I have explains how to change the pH by
adding acid. But it completely ignores the possibility of
adjusting the pH if the wine (mead) is already too acidic
and the pH needs adjustment toward base. Is it like a barley
mash, just add gypsum?
- --
Jack
Costa Mesa, California
http://home.earthlink.net/~sunbus/index.html
------------------------------
Subject: re: Cyser Clearing
From: rcd@talisman.com (Dick Dunn)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:43:19 -0600 (MDT)
Arcturus (one of the Arcturuses on the MLD) <arcturus@accesscomm.ca> wrote:
> I have a question for anyone who has been doing Cysers - I have a Cyser
> that has finally stopped fermenting after a long, bubbly session in a
> glass carboy (put there September 20th) but is extremely murky. What is
> the best clearing agent for Apple Meads?...
I have one "negative suggestion": gelatin can make things worse instead of
better. Sparkalloid can help (and some folks swear by it) but I don't like
the fluffy nature of how it pulls stuff out. YMMV. I'd try any potential
fining agent on a small sample of the cyser first. But fining may not be
the issue...
>...When itis an Apple Mead is it still pectin haze I am
> lookin at, or some other kind of haze?...
It can be pectin, depending on how you handled it (next). Most apples have
a lot of pectin.
>...Also, I read somewhere on the WWW that you should not cook your apples
> when you are making Cider, but I ignored this and boiled the heck out of
> my apples to make this batch of Cyser...
That's almost certainly your problem. Boiling will extract and "set" the
pectin--that means it's the same process that happens when you make jelly
or jam, and if it happens in a melomel (of which cyser is just a special
case in terminology) you've got a bad case of the murkies.
You've got a somewhat difficult problem now. There is an enzyme that will
break down pectin and help with clearing. It's called pectinase, or some-
times just pectic enzyme, and you should be able to find it in any good
winemaking supply shop. The trouble is that the action of pectinase is
inhibited by alcohol...if you need to use it, it's best to use it before
fermentation. My experience is that it *will* work after fermentation, to
an extent, if you give it time.
>...I can't see any problems with what I have done and everything seems to
> be going fine. Do you other Cyser makers try to squeeze out the Apple
> Juice without resorting to boiling them?...
Yes. (Well, *I* do, anyway:-)
You can do it yourself (sort of) without pressing equipment, but it's a
hassle. You need to chop or grind the apples to a pulp before pressing.
If you are getting apples from a local source, see if that person has a
press and can do it for you. Or see if you can find good, locally-pro-
duced juice.
>...Why, exactly, is it better to not cook the apples?
There are several reasons. The first, which you've discovered, is the
pectin problem.
Next, cooking drives off some of the delicate aromas of the apple (and will
change various flavors).
Third, cooking adds a...well..."cooked" taste, something that you might
call not-fresh.
- ---
Dick Dunn rcd@talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA
...Mr. Natural says, "Get the right tool for the job."
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #922, 22 April 2002
From: JayAnkeney@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 14:18:28 EDT
As a new member to the MLD, I'm very impressed by the group's knowledge.
Perhaps someone could answer a historical question. I understand that mead
was the drink of northern Europe--Vikings, Celts, etc. But I cannot imagine
these hearty types were tipplers interested in a sipping libation with their
pinkies raised. Perhaps I'm swayed by the great "beer hall" scene from the
movie "The Vikings", but I rather picture these warrior societies quaffing
down great masers of fermented beverage. Yet if they were guzzling mead by
the pint, how could they have taken off the next day to invade England? Or
function on any sober level?
So how did these worthy stalwart and heathen rampagers drink their meads?
Some have told me their alcohol tolerance was greater than ours, but
considering the natural alcohol content of mead, they must have had quite
amazing livers to have drunk mead in large quantities on a regular basis and
survive. Others have said they watered the drink down to wine equivalency.
Any input available?
Wassail, and thanks!
Jay Ankeney
------------------------------
Subject: hydromels, honeyjack?
From: fszak <fszak@uaf.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:04:01 -0800
Despite repeated efforts (well, two...) I cannot seem to make a hydromel that
I find at all palatable. The first attempt used 8# honey, nutrient,
energizer, "hop tea", (2/3 oz Saaz boiled in water for an hour) and a pack
each of Muntons ale and Vierka lager dry yeasts. After an excruciatingly slow
fermentation (1 year later, multiple rackings) and 6 months in the bottle, it
is bland and insipid, the only notable characteristic being a slight yeasty
flavor. Second try was similar with lots more hops (boiled and dry-hop), and
I steeped 1.5# of flaked barley in the must. Results: faster fermentation,
but similar unpleasant flavor (just more bitter). Id really like to develop a
carbonated no-malt drink, so if someone can give me some tips or a
tried-and-true hydromel recipe, I'd be very grateful.
Higher gravity meads have worked beautifully, the only difference (besides
more honey and use of wine yeasts) is the addition of tannin (usually tea).
Before I start another extended experiment, could this be the missing link?
Hmm, while I'm posting, has anyone tried crystallizing water out of their
meads in sub-zero temperatures, applejack style? It sure sounds good...:P
Thanks,
- -Zenith Kleine
Fairbanks, AK
------------------------------
Subject: RE: Mead Lover's Digest #922, 22 April 2002
From: "Kummi's PC" <kummisPC@gmx.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:27:11 -0300
> On October 4, 2001 I started a batch of mead using honey and apple cider.
It
> has been slowly fermenting since that time (today is April 20, 2002). How
> lond does it usually take for the fermentaiton to complete. I am
concerned
> that if I botle it in a regular wine bottle It could explode if it
ferments
> too long or too much. Any suggestions? Thanks.
>
> Andy Zuckerman
Hi Andy and the list! About your question, my humble opinion. The
fermentation could be slow, or fast, depends of pH, provided nutrient and
temperature. If you measure the gravidity you will find out if the
fermentation finally stops or resume. If you cannot do that, you may inquire
the alcoholic range of used yeast, i.e. if you pitched champagne yeast and
your mead is sweet, that means that the fermentation will go on later. If
your case, the bottles could explode. Adjust the pH to 4, add if necessary
yeast nutrient and take notice about temperature, if cold, no fermentation.
I use to fill thick bottles (tied cork) with nearly end fermentation mead
for taste bubbling mead and bury it in sand for aging (only a few months).
You must to be careful with this procedure, it could be dangerous.
Did you use directly cider, or apple puree, in primary?
Wassail!!
Rodolfo Kummerfeldt, Argentina, where winemaking is tradition.
kummerfeldt@gmx.net
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Length of initial fermentation?
From: Melinda Merkel Iyer <myn@iyerfamily.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:49:04 -0700
I should mention that I did use yeast nutrient, but only 2 teaspoons.
I don't think this was enough given the slow ferment time. Using tap
water in my area is NOT an option as we have very hard minerally
water which frankly tastes and smells very bad. How much nutrient
would you all recommend using for the next time around?
Melinda
- --
Melinda Merkel Iyer
http://www.iyerfamily.net/
------------------------------
Subject: Sherry yeast, and other good mead yeasts?
From: Melinda Merkel Iyer <myn@iyerfamily.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:50:33 -0700
Someone on this list recently mentioned sherry yeast. I can't
remember who, but I do remember reading that it goes just as high and
just as fast but takes half the time of champagne yeast.
Unfortunately I'm unable to locate it at any of my homebrew shops
here in Phoenix - what are your sources?
Also, does anyone have any recommendations for good yeast other than
champagne yeast? I'm out for a dry to semi-dry wine with high alcohol
and lots of flavor.
Melinda
- --
Melinda Merkel Iyer
http://www.iyerfamily.net/
------------------------------
End of Mead Lover's Digest #923
*******************************