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Mead Lovers Digest #0826
Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #826, 12 October 2000
From: mead-request@talisman.com
Mead Lover's Digest #826 12 October 2000
Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor
Contents:
newbie ("Earl Albrecht")
Re: Honey for priming. ("J. Morgan")
crystals ("jw&a")
Classic questions ("Matt Maples")
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #825, 2 October 2000 (Myron Sothcott)
D-47 Slow or Stuck Fermentations (Myron Sothcott)
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #825, 2 October 2000 (Lazurus106@aol.com)
Re: Kegs (JazzboBob@aol.com)
kegging mead ("Micah Millspaw")
D-47 and slow/stuck fermentations ("Stephen J. Van der Hoven")
Re: Using 5L Mini-Kegs to keg mead (dworkin@village.org)
Crown caps. (jafjmw@cableinet.co.uk)
Re: Using 5L Mini-Kegs to keg mead (Dave Polaschek)
slow fermentations, NHB, elderberries (Chuck)
First time brewers (Max)
Rowanberries (Arcturus)
Priming honey and other questions (Marc Shapiro)
Clarifying ("Steve Gaskin")
NOTE: Digest appears when there is enough material to send one.
Send ONLY articles for the digest to mead@talisman.com.
Use mead-request@talisman.com for [un]subscribe/admin requests.
Digest archives and FAQ are available at www.talisman.com/mead. There is
a searchable MLD archive at hubris.engin.umich.edu/Beer/Threads/Mead
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: newbie
From: "Earl Albrecht" <ealbrecht@nitekmcallen.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 07:59:25 -0500
Heilsa,
I have only recently gotten my first taste of mead, and after having
thought about it for the last couple years--I'm ready to do it!! That
stuff was great :) My only problem is finding a source of starter
equipment and exactly what/how much I need to start off. Any ideas?
And before you ask, I live in deep south Texas, nobody around here even
knows what mead is--much less sells any equipment (unless you count the
plastic Mr. Beer keg kit).
Thanks,
Erik the Black of Saxony
(Earl Albrecht)
Legio Australis
Archery Marshal, La Marche Sauvage
Kingdom of Ansteorra
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Honey for priming.
From: "J. Morgan" <jmorgan@surfree.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 09:31:49 -0600
>I think the general formula of 3/4 cup corn sugar (ack) to 5 gallons
>brew would work here as it does in Charlies books. I don't know what
>that would translate to in weight of honey for priming...
>
>anyone else?
>
>yacko
Used 1/2 cup honey in 2 cups boiled cooled water for a 5 gal.
batch of beer a couple weeks ago. (It's buried somewhere in
TNCJOH.) Things seem to be on track.
Nicely carbonated, a little honey taste, *but* not much head
retention or body. It's only been a couple weeks.
I've been told corn sugar carbonates faster, but doesn't
proovide much of a head, and DME takes longer but
produces more body. Don't know how this would translate
to mead, but I suppose I wouldn't want to use DME for mead.
HTH.
- --
j
------------------------------
Subject: crystals
From: "jw&a" <jwa@carol.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:47:30 -0400
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Yacko Warner Yacko <yacko@mint.net>
> I think it's a great thing that someone has shared their experience in
> brewing with crystals and that they told us how they did it and why. I
> think it brings another bit of knowledge into the fold. However, what
> bothers me is all the people that immediately dismiss it on this list
a agree!! and someone putting rocks in mead has got to be at least as useful
as my playing pink floyd while brewing.... i think it mellows out the yeast.
:-)
bob rogers
south carolina
------------------------------
Subject: Classic questions
From: "Matt Maples" <matt_maples@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:55:57 -0700
Jim, you have hit on two of the classic questions that pop up from time to
time.
First off sweet and sparkling is hard to do naturally unless you know you
yeast, honey and fermentation conditions very well. After you do a lot of
batches of sweet mead with a particular yeast and honey you will get to know
when you can cap it and end up with something other than a grenade. I have
done some in the past, some came out fine but have had a few that were on
there way to becoming dangerous (drink fast! :-)). If you want
predictability either force carbonate or go with dry sparkling. I don't do a
lot of sweet meads these days, my tastes run more on the dry side just be
careful if you prime and check the bottles often.
Next Wyeast Sweet mead yeast. I personally have given up on it some time
ago. I don't think it is very sulfite tolerant and it does seem to be rather
picky. If I want sweet I use a good ale yeast. 1056 is good and clean and
will bring out good honey flavor.
Hope this helps.
Matt Maples
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #825, 2 October 2000
From: Myron Sothcott <myron7@home.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 16:32:27 -0400
The corn sugar will not modify the taste of your mead. 3/4 cup is a
very small quantity, and with a dry mead will ferment completely.
However, if you want to be a purist, use 7/8 to 1 cup of honey. If
the specific gravity is well under 1.0 you might want to try 1 1/4
cups to get a real bubbley effect like champagne. I would definitely
let it ferment to completion if I plan to prime for carbonation.
For a sweet mead that has been fed until the yeasts alcohol tolerance
has been reached, or which has been sulfited to stop fermation, the
only reasonable solution is artificial carbonation.
Myron
> Subject: re: How Much Priming for a Sparkling Mead
> From: Yacko Warner Yacko <yacko@mint.net>
> Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 09:06:09 -0400
>
> I think the general formula of 3/4 cup corn sugar (ack) to 5 gallons
> brew would work here as it does in Charlies books. I don't know what
> that would translate to in weight of honey for priming...
>
> anyone else?
>
> yacko
>
> >To date, I've only made still meads. I want to try a sparkling sweet mead.
> >What are the guidelines for priming when bottling for a sparkling sweet mead?
> >I'm aware that I must use a heavier bottle and either cap or wire
> >the cork. I don't know if it best to bottle before it ferments all the way
> >down or add some honey or sugar like I would do for beer. Perhaps I should
> >keg it and artificially carbonate. Has anyone done that?
>
------------------------------
Subject: D-47 Slow or Stuck Fermentations
From: Myron Sothcott <myron7@home.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 16:53:06 -0400
For dry mead I use Champagne yeast because I want every last bit
of the sugar converted. I *usually* prime dry meads and want to
be able to control carbonation.
I use D-47 for all sweet meads and melomels. I have never had a
stuck fermentation with D-47. With sweet mead I use only water,
yeast, honey, and yeast energizer. With the melomels I leave out
the yeast energizer and let the fruit provide the boost for the
yeast. Whenever the Ph falls below 4.0 I add enough calcium
carbonate to bring it back up (generally a teaspoon or less).
I ferment at 70 to 72 deg F, rack only two times, and wait for
the must to fall clear after the second racking. First racking
at 1 to 3 weeks, depending on activity. Now I start feeding
the must, when the SG falls below 1.01, shooting for a final
gravity of 1.01 to 1.016, depending on the fruit. Second
racking when the feeding is complete and SG no longer changes.
Now I let it fall clear (1 to 6 months) then bottle.
Myron
> I've just switched from Champagne yeasts to Lalvin D-47. It makes a
> superior mead that is drinkable very early, but always has a problem
> with very slow and sticking fermentations no matter what the recipe is
> or how the nutrients or other ingredients are adjusted.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions on what can be done to guarantee a good
> consistent fermentation?
>
> Does anyone know of an equally mild yeast that is more vigorous?
>
> Thanks, Rob
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #825, 2 October 2000
From: Lazurus106@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:48:52 EDT
Greetings all,
Has anyone tried the honey from the purple loose strife that the DNR has
there pantys in a knot about? According to a local apiary it produces a lot
of honey
A very strong sharp taste a lite color and is supposed to be very high in
sugars. I've got a 3 gallon batch with 6 lbs of it with 10 lbs of over
ripe peachs. I'm using lavin 71B 1122 yeast which claims to limit itself to
14 % alcohol. I laid it up last month on the 20 th.
If anyones interested I'll let you know how it turns out.
Cheers,
Dutch
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Kegs
From: JazzboBob@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 23:48:04 EDT
I've successfully kegged and served many meads in 5 gallon Cornelius kegs. I
sometimes keg odd batch sizes of mead so that they aren't exposed to levels
of air in a low filled carboy. Other times, I keg a mead to put into cold
storage to naturally cold condition, stabilize, and clarify a mead. It's
also an easy way to make sparkling sediment free mead. I would imagine the
mini kegs would work just as well.
Bob Grossman
<<
Subject: Using 5L Mini-Kegs to keg mead
From: "Eric A. Bonney" <ebonney@fuse.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 20:49:25 -0400
I was wondering if anyone has ever tried using the mini kegs to keg any
mead? Any good results at all? Has anyone ever just plain kegged their
mead at all? Thanks for the input. I have a vanilla mead that I will be
bottling in the next few months and was looking into an alternative.
- -Eric
>>
------------------------------
Subject: kegging mead
From: "Micah Millspaw" <MMillspa@silganmfg.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 07:01:35 -0500
>Subject: Using 5L Mini-Kegs to keg mead
>From: =22Eric A. Bonney=22 <ebonney=40fuse.net>
>Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 20:49:25 -0400
>I was wondering if anyone has ever tried using the mini kegs to keg any
>mead? Any good results at all? Has anyone ever just plain kegged their
>mead at all? Thanks for the input. I have a vanilla mead that I will be
>bottling in the next few months and was looking into an alternative.
>- -Eric
All of my meads go into kegs for finishing / aging. IMHO kegging the mead
is more conveinient for long term storage, and the effects of maturation
appear to be more rapid in the bulk of a keg as compared to a bottle. =
The=20
mead setting in a sealed keg for a while is also a very good and safe
way (compared to a bottle) to be certain that it has finished fermenting.
After the mead has reached the desired condition I use a counter-pressure
filler to transfer to bottles. Also for filtering mead the kegs are quite =
handy.
Micah Millspaw - brewer at large
------------------------------
Subject: D-47 and slow/stuck fermentations
From: "Stephen J. Van der Hoven" <sjvande2@ilstu.edu>
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 07:41:27 -0700
A few years ago, I also switched from using a champagne yeast to D-47 for
most of my meads. I agree that this yeast makes a very drinkable mead at a
young age, however, my experience with D-47 fermentations is almost the
opposite of Rob's. I have found that it starts quickly (usually within a
few hours), ferments at a steady pace for several weeks and is completely
done within several months. The result is a slightly sweet mead that's
usually crystal clear and is drinkable within 6 months but I like to leave
it in a carboy for a year anyway. I usually do not make a starter, but
pitch two packages. I did make a starter a few weeks ago when the first
pitching didn't take hold for some reason. After pitching the starter, a
strong fermentation started by the next morning. It's hard to guess why
Rob's experiences are different than mine without a more detailed
description of his brewing process. However, the only time I had a slow
fermentation with D-47 was when I started a metheglin (spices only) and
initially forgot to add any nutrient. I realized the error after a few
days when things were going very slowly, added a table spoon directly to
the carboy and fermentation picked up to a good pace within a day. So, I
can't say that any of this has answered Rob's question, but those are my
experiences and D-47 will remain my yeast of choice for the foreseeable future.
Steve
_____________________________
Stephen J. Van der Hoven
Visiting Assistant Professor
Department of Geography-Geology
Illinois State University
Campus Box 4400
Normal, IL 67190-4400
Phone: 309/438-3493
Fax: 309/438-5310
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Using 5L Mini-Kegs to keg mead
From: dworkin@village.org
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 13:57:30 -0600
"Eric A. Bonney" <ebonney@fuse.net> wrote:
: I was wondering if anyone has ever tried using the mini kegs to keg any
: mead? Any good results at all? Has anyone ever just plain kegged their
: mead at all? Thanks for the input. I have a vanilla mead that I will be
: bottling in the next few months and was looking into an alternative.
Considered the mini-kegs, but the setup seemed too expensive for the
result. I currently am using standard soda kegs and (depending on my
mood at the time) carbon dioxide or nitrogen. A while back, someone
posted about pallet-loads of soda kegs being sold really cheaply, so I
got one. Total cost was about the same as for a mini-keg system, but
I got over twenty usable 5-gallon kegs from it. Much less hassle
"bottling". Actually, less hassle with actual bottling, if I decide
to make up some gifts, since you've got much better control with the
keg tap than with a siphon hose. There's a bit more hassle if you're
taking some to a party, since you have to lug the keg, the gas bottle,
and various hoses around with you.
Overall, I'd have to recommend using kegs.
Dworkin
------------------------------
Subject: Crown caps.
From: jafjmw@cableinet.co.uk
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 17:38:23 +0100
>First, hopefully you are not boiling the crowns or soaking them
>in bleach or anysuch thing, since these will cause rust.
>
>To combat rusty crowns on bottles that I plan to keep for a while (I
>have stuff at least 15 years old) I have taken to dipping the
>crowned bottles into molten wax. I dip and repeat (the wax) until a
>nice layer has formed over the crown and about =BD inch down the
>neck of the bottle.
>This seems to work quite well at preventing rust and looks nice too.
>
>Micah Millspaw - brewer at large
I have always briefly boiled crown caps before use, and very
occasionally they rust on the outside -- but not on the plastic-
lined inside, so I haven't worried about it. Do you not think it
is
necessary to sanitize them? If so, how else to do it?
- -- Adam
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Using 5L Mini-Kegs to keg mead
From: Dave Polaschek <davep@davespicks.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:17:05 -0500
"Eric A. Bonney" <ebonney@fuse.net> wrote:
>I was wondering if anyone has ever tried using the mini kegs to keg any
>mead? Any good results at all? Has anyone ever just plain kegged their
>mead at all? Thanks for the input. I have a vanilla mead that I will be
>bottling in the next few months and was looking into an alternative.
I have a friend who tried the 5l mini-kegs. They worked "okay", but were
a drag to clean. One you get some sediment in there, it can be pretty
tough to get out, since you've got a pretty small hole to work with, and
can't easily see inside the keg.
I used to keg all of my mean in 5 gallon cornelius kegs. It's easy and
you can adjust the carbonation level by force-carbonating. Handy. The
only reason I stopped was that my friend with the counter-pressure filler
moved away, so now I usually bottle some or all of the mead.
My only real comment on kegging mead is that it's easiest to not prime it
at all, and just force-carbonate if you want bubbles. It's not as
natural, but I never had good luck getting the carbonation right by
priming a keg. If you want a still mead, you should still put enough CO2
pressure on the keg to seal everything up good, and then back off the
pressure until it's time to dispense. I typically used 40psi to seal the
keg, and as high as 60psi to force-carbonate if I was in a big hurry.
Dispensing was between 5 and 10 psi depending on the setup I had.
Also note that while the kegs are rated for 60psi, that's enough pressure
to blow out hoses that aren't pressure-rated. Make sure you only crank
the pressure up if you've got equipment that can handle it.
- -DaveP
Dave Polaschek - Polaschek Computing, Inc. - davep@best.com
PGP key and other spiffy things at <http://www.best.com/~davep/>
The difference between death and taxes is death doesn't get
worse every time Congress meets. -- Will Rogers
------------------------------
Subject: slow fermentations, NHB, elderberries
From: Chuck <meadmakr@enteract.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 07:41:13 -0500 (CDT)
In MLD #825 "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke@merck.com> wrote:
> Dave, you raise a good point here. There's enough amino acid
> & protein talk in beer to bore most people to tears, but
> what about mead? I really haven't seen any AA or protein
> anaylsis on honey. I guess this is why I'm sticking
> to melomels for now. I'm not really looking forward to
> any stuck or slow fermentations.
The National Honey Board (www.NHB.org) has more
information on the composition of honey than you may
be able to digest. Most data on honey composition is
found at: http://www.nhb.org/foodtech/index.html
Amino acids? Honey contains 18 of them! Proteins?
Yup, it's got 'em too.
I've made quite a few show meads, and never had a stuck
fermentation, but then I don't boil, or even heat my
honey/must, since to do so removes all of the nutrients
you need for a proper fermentation. Do you *really* think
that adding Fermaid or DAP adds back all that is lost
when you boil your honey? Not to mention aroma losses.
Worried about a spoiled mead? It has never happened to
me, or others that I know who use the same methods, and
you should read at the NHB site about all the
anti-bacteriological properties of honey.
But then it's not just a matter of not boiling,
protection from spoiling also involves pitching
enough yeast to wipe out any potential threat. A
Wyeast smack-pack is NOT enough for a 5 gallon batch.
A 5 gr. sachet of dried yeast is enough for a 5 gallon
batch, but 10 gr. certainly doesn't hurt.
Also on the NHB site was this recent news release from
the Department of Agriculture:
South Dakota - A $24,000 grant to the South Dakota Department
of Agriculture, in cooperation with the Mid-U.S. Honey
Producers Marketing Association, to determine the market
potential for locally produced honey mead.
Also in MLD #825 Rob <rob@nurwibsco.com> asked about:
D-47 Slow or Stuck Fermentations
> I've just switched from Champagne yeasts to Lalvin
> D-47. It makes a superior mead that is drinkable very
> early, but always has a problem with very slow and
> sticking fermentations no matter what the recipe is
> or how the nutrients or other ingredients are adjusted.
Hmmmm, I just started a cyser using D-47 and it's going
like gangbusters. At one point I thought I would have to
put a blowoff tube on my 7 gallon carboy containing this
5 gallon batch. You mention "nutrients or other ingredients".
Did you boil your must? Well, there's your problem. (8?>)
(yeah, yeah, broken record...)
> Does anyone have any suggestions on what can be done to
> guarantee a good consistent fermentation?
Sure, buy minimumially processed honey that hasn't had all
the enzymes and proteins heated out of them. Your local
beekeeper is your best source and probably your cheapest
price.
Don't boil, or even heat your must. It denatures the
proteins and other nutrients you need for fermentation
and reduces volatile aromas.
Don't start with impossibly high original gravities. I
believe above 1.150 is impossibly high. I start most of
my meads at 1.100 and they all ferment out (to the limits
of the yeast I'm using) with no problems and in a reasonable
mount of time (IE. a month or less).
Pitch enough yeast to get off to a rousing start, and don't
rack off the yeast cake until the mead is finished. Early
racking reduces the amount of available yeast and prolongs
fermentation.
> Does anyone know of an equally mild yeast that is more vigorous?
Lalvin K1 (V1116) is a strong fermenter and produces clean meads,
but I don't know that it's any more vigorous than D-47.
Spencer Thomas, Dave Burley, Bob Grossman and others
wrote about elderberries and elderberry sap. I have
experienced elderberry sap in the elderblow (flowers)
I first picked this season, plus in the first batch of
berries I picked. The second batch of berries I had none.
All were picked from the same plants. I believe the problem
to be picking too early and getting unripe berries. The best
advice I saw was someone on Rec.Crafts.Winemaking who
said "don't pick the berries until the hand droops". If
you look closely at the plants, when the berries are ripe,
the berry cluster (the hand) will bend over. Then it's time
to pick.
Chuck Wettergreen
meadmakr@enteract.com
Geneva, IL
------------------------------
Subject: First time brewers
From: Max <montel@fas.harvard.edu>
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 03:43:55 -0400
Dear mead experts,
My roommate and I are just beginning the process of making mead in our dorm
room. I'll cut and paste the recipe we used at the end of this email just
so you know where we're coming from. If you could, we have a couple of
general procedure questions, things that have come up after checking out
your FAQ site, etc.
The first is storage for the first couple of weeks. The recipe says a warm
place, right now we have it sitting next to an incandescent lamp (I know,
we're amateurs and they haven't turned the heat on in our rooms yet). Is
this good, and if not, any suggestions? How warm is warm?
Then later when we rack and move the mead to a cool place, how cool?
Assuming they keep our rooms at around 70 degrees, will just storing it in
the closet be ok?
Also, your site only talked about steaming the must for 30 minutes. Our
recipe said 2-5 hours, and we did it for about 3 1/2. I noticed that the
level in the pot dropped quite a bit during this time (we started with a
gallon of water, plus the quart of honey, 8oz of tea, etc, and still ended
up with slightly less than a gallon of must).
Then, more importantly, how often should we rack? Our recipe only says to
do it once, but your website talks about multiple rackings...we did strain
the must when we put it into the bottle for fermenting, does that count as
the first one?
And, just to check, how long should we let this sit? As you see, the
recipe says 1-3 weeks before the first racking, then six weeks at least
afterwards. Does that sound about right? The yeast we used was Lalvin
K1-V1116 (5g) and one tsp of Fermax Yeast Nutrient. The guy at the store
where we bought the bottles and airlocks suggested them.
So, I think that's everything. Does it sound like we're on the right track?
We really appreciate any help you can give and look forward to joining the
ranks of mead afficionados everywhere.
Yours,
Max and James
(montel@fas.harvard.edu, bergman@fas.harvard.edu)
And the recipe we used:
Put three pounds (1 quart) light honey to about a gallon of water and heat
to just below boiling. Skim off as much as you can of the white froth &
discard. Add a palmful of whole cloves, a handful of stick cinnamon, and a
couple of palmfuls of whole allspice. Add the zest (thin outer peel) of one
medium-large orange. Remove and discard the white pith from the orange and
crush the remainder into the pot. Add one cup double-strength black tea
(two teabags to one cup boiling water). Keep the whole mess at steaming
(NOT BOILING) temperature for two to five hours. Cool to lukewarm
("baby-bottle" or "blood" temperature) and strain or rack (siphon) into one
or two large bottles, filling only to the "shoulder" of each bottle. Add
one or two tablespoonfuls of dry yeast to each bottle and attach airlock.
(Mead is the ONLY fermented product it is not only safe, but often
preferable to use bread yeast to manufacture). You may want to leave the
bottles "unlocked" for 12-24 hours to give the yeast a headstart. ave in
warm, but not hot, place for 7-21 days, or until airlock "breaks." Rack
into clean bottles. You may top up with clean water, if you wish. This
lightens the flavour and assists in the mellowing process. DON'T use
processed city water! Age in cool spot for AT LEAST six weeks -- it can
safely go for a year. Rack once more when it looks clear, and be sure
always to leave all the GUCK in the bottom of the bottle whenever you rack.
------------------------------
Subject: Rowanberries
From: Arcturus <arcturus@cableregina.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 22:39:31 -0600
Hail all:
I have this excellent Mountain Ash in my front yard. This year it has
given over a huge harvest of orangish-red berries, which I had been told
are poisonous. But one source informed me this year that the berries
are not poisonous after they freeze. Upon diving onto the internet and
researching this, I found that Mountain Ash berries are also known as
Rowanberries, and that after they freeze TWICE are non-poisonous and
very edible. They make an excellent jelly, and have been used in the
past for wine-making.
Has anyone else had any experience with these berries? I picked a big
pail full today and plan to freeze them a couple of more times to be
safe, and then make mead from them.
- --
*--Arcturus--*
http://www.innovationsys.com/arcturusdelve/mead/
------------------------------
Subject: Priming honey and other questions
From: Marc Shapiro <m_shapiro@bigfoot.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:07:39 -0400
Yacko Warner Yacko <yacko@mint.net> writes:
> I think the general formula of 3/4 cup corn sugar (ack) to 5 gallons
> brew would work here as it does in Charlies books. I don't know what
> that would translate to in weight of honey for priming...
According to _A Book of Honey_ by Eva Crane honeys average between about
70% sugar (fructose, glucose and sucrose) to about 76% sugar. The range
was dependant of origin of the honey, but, since all of it was averages
there are no absolutes. The average sugar content for American honeys
was 70.8%.
If we assume that "A pint's a pound" holds reasonably well for corn
sugar
and
12 lbs of honey in 1 gallon (1 1/2 oz by weight = 1 oz by volume)
then:
3/4 cup corn sugar = 3/8 lb
= 6 oz
6 oz sugar/70.8% = 8.475 oz by weight of honey
= 5.65 oz by volume of honey
Note: 5.65 oz by volume is rather close to 6 oz (3/4 cup) so using the
same volume of honey as corn sugar should provide about the same
quantity of sugars. I will again point out that all of this is based on
averages and there are no absolutes (of course your corn sugar might be
bone dry, or have a quantity of moisture in it affecting its sugar
content, as well).
More detail on the sugar content(as well as other components) of honey
can be found on my webpage (see my sig block). Take the link to
"Personal Research" and then to "Honey Stats" where I have several of
the tables from the appendices of Dr. Crane's book.
"Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke@merck.com> writes:
> Dave, you raise a good point here. There's enough amino acid & protein talk
> in beer to bore most people to tears, but what about mead? I really haven't
> seen any AA or protein anaylsis on honey. I guess this is why I'm sticking
> to melomels for now. I'm not really looking forward to any stuck or slow
> fermentations.
Check the link on my webpage listed above. I don't have anything on
protiens, or amino acids, but the charts do give a lot of information on
the various major (and some minor) constituents of honey.
- --
Marc Shapiro "If you drink melomel every day,
m_shapiro@bigfoot.com you will live to be 150 years old,
http://www.bigfoot.com/~m_shapiro/ unless your wife shoots you."
-- Dr. Ferenc Androczi, winemaker,
Little Hungary Farm Winery
------------------------------
Subject: Clarifying
From: "Steve Gaskin" <gasco58@tpg.com.au>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 22:11:18 +0930
Hi guys,
I hail from Australia, a great place - but one where we cannot get
Sparkalloid!
My meads look like lemonade (lemon squash we call it), no matter how
long it sits, and there is a fine floating mist on the top that is
easily disturbed, but floats back to the top. I only make mead, so I
haven't bothered to add any spices etc.
I was wondering if Bentonite will be sufficient to get it to sparkle?
Any tips?
God Bless!
Steve
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End of Mead Lover's Digest #826
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