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Mead Lovers Digest #0761
Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #761, 26 September 1999
From: mead-request@talisman.com
Mead Lover's Digest #761 26 September 1999
Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Regular Baking yeast (Ricky Shehorn)
Re:MLD#760 'Fr:Belinda Messenger Ph.D.' (RDexter819@aol.com)
Re: Missing honeysuckle character (Terry Estrin)
Missing honeysuckle character ("Jake Hester") - MLD #760 (William Millett)
Thank goodness for other newbies (Peter Miller)
The Laid-Back Approach (Ken Schramm)
Ending a Fermentation & Sweetening (jlong@tcadvertising.com)
Diammonium Phosphate & Malt Extract ("Stevenson, Randall")
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #760, 18 September 1999 ("Linda & Darin")
RE: Mead Lover's Digest #760, 18 September 1999 ("DENNIS KEY, RN, PACU (RE...)
darker honey = less need for yeast nutrients and acid (Ken Mason)
Odd aroma from orange blossom mead (Scott Gemmett)
NOTE: Digest only appears when there is enough material to send one.
Send ONLY articles for the digest to mead@talisman.com.
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Regular Baking yeast
From: Ricky Shehorn <rls2@bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 00:46:42 -0400
Reciently I started my first batch of mead, I did a little research
first and found many people who said it was all right to use reg. yeast
in mead making. The formula called for a package of yeast, 1/2 gallon of
water, 1 tsp nutmeg, 1 tsp ground allspice, 2 cups honey and 1/4 cup
lemon juice. It also said to leave ferment for 6 months in a glass jar.
I started the mix on Aug. 25, but when I purchased the ingredants, I
bought the yeast in bulk not in packets. When I made the must, I forgot
that the standerd packet of yeast was only 2 1/2 tsp. yeast and used 2
1/2 TBS. yeast. A few weeks ago, I made another batck of must only this
time I added 4 cups fresh mint leaves. My question is will the high
amount of yeast cause any problems, or should I scrap this batch? I know
if I keep it going, I will probably have to let it work more than 6
months. BTW, The yeast I used was Red Star High Active yeast and it
started fermenting as soon as I added it to the cool must.
Richard "RiverWolf" Shehorn
------------------------------
Subject: Re:MLD#760 'Fr:Belinda Messenger Ph.D.'
From: RDexter819@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 10:18:32 EDT
>>"Maybe I'm old-fashioned in my mead-making but I don't worry too much about
formulas and specific mineral nutrients etc.......I know I'll get nailed for
this laidback approach to mead-making, but I don't think that it's always
necessary to understand and control the process inside and out"
I would like to applaud you on your 'laidback approach to mead-making.'
One reason I'm so fascinated with making Mead is that it's an ancient art.
I doubt that the people that originally made mead all those years ago had the
means to measure everything. I did hours of reasearch on the Net, learning
all I could about the procedure, then I started making a few batches 'from
scratch' So far I've learned a lot, but have been able to drink everything
I've made.
I don't think theres anything wrong with measuring everything, But I know
I get a great feeling of accomplishment when I'm sipping a mead I've made
using only simple ingredients and a little skill (or maybee luck?)
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Missing honeysuckle character
From: Terry Estrin <estrin@sfu.ca>
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 07:21:14 -0700 (PDT)
Jake Hester wrote:=20
>Back in April, I started a 1 gal batch of honeysuckle mead- my proceedure
>(gleaned from a country winemaking book) was to fill 2 1qt mason jars with
>honeysuckle flowers, pour boiling water over them, allow them to cool, then
>keep the water.
(snip)
>I bottled it yesterday. It has practically no detectable
>honeysuckle scent or flavor! I expected some- even much- loss of
>honeysuckle character in fermentation, but not ALL of it!
It could be that the oils that make up the honeysuckle fragrance are quite
volatile, and were simply blown off during fermentation. I've been thinking
about making an elderflower mead (I was inspired after tasting an
elderflower beverage from England). It occurred to me that the best way to
preserve the scent and flavor of the flower would be to treat the process
as if you were making a perfume. That is, make the mead without the flowers
first, and when it is drinkable, toss in the flowers and allow the alcohol
to extract the oils. This is really the same process that occurs when
making homemade liqueurs, where the alcohol acts as a solvent to draw out
the fruit flavors. Now that I think of it, "May wine," is a popular spring
drink in Germany (I believe), and is made by adding the sweet woodruff
plant to white wine and letting it steep, thereby imparting the flavor to
the wine.
Just my two bits.
Terry
__________________________________________________________________________
Terry Estrin
Vancouver, British Columbia
------------------------------
Subject: Missing honeysuckle character ("Jake Hester") - MLD #760
From: William Millett <wmillett@fractal.com.br>
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 19:32:27 -0300
Jake Hester writes:
>At the time I pitched, it had a very strong honeysuckle scent, almost too
strong. The scent was still strong at first racking. (...) It has
practically no detectable honeysuckle scent or flavor!
I had a similar problem - how to keep the apple aroma in cysers after
fermentantion. I used to add apple juice to the (cooled) boiled water and
honey solution and ferment it all together. It happened just as described -
a powerful aroma during fermentation until the first racking. Then
apparently the apple aroma had gone with the lees - very little was left to
smell ou taste!
The aroma is stripped out of the must by the lively action of carbon dioxide
being set free during the first or second week of fermentation.
I solved the problem by adding the apple juice after the first racking, when
the fermentation has largely subsided (not so active). This of course means
that the first fermentation (let call it like that) will occur in a must
with a higher concentration of honey in the solution. The yeast will have to
be appropriate for that otherwise its performance will be below par. After
the apple juice was added, the fermentation seemed to take off again, but at
a much lower rate than seen at the beginning. The cyser has retained its
apple aroma after one year of aging and is a hit with my friends (ladies
seem to like it a lot). It is sort of demi-sec (final gravity not known -
hydrometer was dropped and broken as I was going to measure).
I believe an infusion with the flowers and water could be made and added to
the must after the first racking. I would try to keep the volume of water
for the "tea" at a minimum so that the concentration of honey in the must is
not too high for the yeast (alternatively one could use a yeast for sweet
meads). The flower infusion could even be added after the second racking,
because after all, the flowers will give the mead aroma and not any
nutrients or fermentables. The flowers will be sterilized because they will
still have to be boiled in water.
Good luck!
William
------------------------------
Subject: Thank goodness for other newbies
From: Peter Miller <peter@perpetualocean.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 99 10:50:33 +1000
>From: Kim Davis <Kim.Davis@wsc.nsw.gov.au>
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:52:34 +1000
>
>Like ReezTeez I am also very new to this world of mead making and relate to
>all he has expressed. I am in Sydney, Australia but have many of the same
>questions. Are there any groups or workshops out this way??? Thanks for the
>great service you are all providing - while right now it seems very
>overwhelming it is at the same time reassuring to know there is so much
>expertise and expereince being so willingly shared. Happy mead making.
Hi Kim,
I also live in Sydney and have had quite a few years experience making
meads, fruit wines and mels. Feel free to mail me if you need any info,
Peter.
peter@perpetualocean.com www.perpetualocean.com
------------------------------
Subject: The Laid-Back Approach
From: Ken Schramm <Ken.Schramm@oakland.k12.mi.us>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:36:17 -0400
Belinda Messenger cringes at the thought of getting blasted for saying she
takes a "sit back and wait" approach to her meads. More power to ya,
Belinda. I have been a proponent of the quick fermentation tack, but have
also made some spectacular meads with little fuss. They just took their
time, and ended up quite nice in the end.
I think that the differences in technical approach often match the
differences in mead maker personality. Since both types of people can be
enjoyable to be around, I'll bet their meads will also be enjoyable to be
around. In the Club Only, first place was a year in the bottle, second and
third were adolescents of a few months.
I am also one to believe that excessive yeast nutrient is far less likely
to produce off flavors than excessive diammonium phosphate (energizer).
Just taste the two and see what you think.
Yours,
Ken
Troy, MI
Where I have sixteen bushels of apples in storage, and the Northern Spy
tree hasn't even been touched yet. It'll be a good cider/cyser year in
Motown.
------------------------------
Subject: Ending a Fermentation & Sweetening
From: jlong@tcadvertising.com
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 11:05:28 -0400
Greetings,
I am new to the art of brewing mead and I have two questions I would like
to have some advice on. The first is, if I have a mead that has reached my
desired sweetness, what is the method most recommended for stopping the
fermentation? I thought that one of batches had completely finished, but a few
weeks later the corks started to blow on my bottles.
My second question is, What is the recommended method for sweetening a mead
that is a bit to dry without re-starting fermentation? Any advice on theses two
questions will be greatly appreciated!
- -John
------------------------------
Subject: Diammonium Phosphate & Malt Extract
From: "Stevenson, Randall" <rstevenson@LDI.STATE.LA.US>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:45:22 -0500
Mark Nelson wrote
"What is the difference between using Diammonium Phosphate, Yeast Energizer,
Yeast Nutrient and Dry Malt Extract (as Paul Gatza's recent recipe called
for) in meads."
The diammonium phosphate (DAP) is an inorganic chemical nutrient for yeast.
It will speed up the fermentation process. The dry malt extract is a
product of malted barley which is used to brew beer. Adding the malt
extract will give your mead some "beerness" -- the degree depends on the
amount. I make meads and beers (and wines). I usually use a little yeast
energizer (DAP) -- an almost tiny amount -- when I make a yeast starter.
I've never put malt in a mead and will have to try that sometime.
Wassail,
Randall
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #760, 18 September 1999
From: "Linda & Darin" <mtss@ptw.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 21:54:36 -0700
Jake Hester says:
>In light of this, how can I alter my proceedure for next year? I know some
>people add fruits and spices after first racking, but I was thinking that it
>would be hard to sterilize the flowers without destroying the flavor. Any
>ideas?
Ja. Wait until the mead is almost or completely done, and then just toss
the flowers in. If your mead is up around or past 10 or 12%, the alcohol
will take care of the sterilization. We do it every summer with rose petals
and lavendar flowers here at Castillo del Lago.
Darin Trueblood
------------------------------
Subject: RE: Mead Lover's Digest #760, 18 September 1999
From: "DENNIS KEY, RN, PACU (RECOVERY ROOM) 272-2720" <DKEY@mozart.unm.edu>
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 13:36:39 -0600
Re: Alan Meekr's question about making sweet meads.
One method (detailed in Duncan & Acton's Mead Making) is to start with an
amount of honey you know will ferment to dryness. When the S.G, reaches 1.005,
add 1/4 lb honey per gallon (about 1/3 cup). Continue until fermentation stops
(when the yeast reaches its alcohol tolerance). Champaign yeasts will reach
upwards of 20% alcohol. Not bad for a dessert mead, but rocket fuel if you
like to drink a lot. Using the same technique with a yeast which has a lower
tolerance to alcohol will produce a sweet (1.02--more or less) or semisweet
(1.01 S.G) mead at a lower alcohol content.
You can also use sweet mead yeasts availalbe at your brewstore. Some of the
best advice and guidance (other than on MLD) has been from people at my
brewstore, so consult with your local people if possible.
Never Thirst,
Dione Wolfe
Dragonweyr, NM
Wolfe's Witch's Brew
------------------------------
Subject: darker honey = less need for yeast nutrients and acid
From: Ken Mason <kjmason1@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 19:15:05 -0700 (PDT)
Hi: New mazer, recent subscriber and first time
poster. Good enough formalities - now the geek speak.
The University of Illinois did a study comparing the
nutrient properties of dark honeys verses Light
honeys. They found lighter colored honeys, like sage
and clover, have far less anti-oxidants than dark
honeys such as Buckwheat. They found that "Gram for
gram, antioxidants in buckwheat honey equal that of
fruits and vegetables such as sweet corn or tomatoes".
My question/challenge to fellow mazers is: Has anyone
found that dark honeys need less or no nutrients
compared to lighter honeys? Would you try?
The UI study only mentions the anti-oxidant prevalence
in dark honey and not other vitamins and minerals.
For all I know, the anti-oxidant source may be purely
from Vitamin C. As the study says, "It packs the
antioxidant power of vitamin C in a tomato".
If Vitamin C is the only additional nutrient, I don't
expect that would be enough to skip on the yeast
nutrients.
I may be comparing apples and oranges, but I
hypothesise that in the same way darker sugar sources,
like black strap molasses, have more vitamins and
minerals than lighter colored sugar sources, like corn
syrup, so parallels dark honey vs. light honey.
I'm chancing no nutrients needed, or acid for that
matter, assuming Vitamin C is sufficient to properly
acidify the must. We'll see in a few months.
(info source on buckwheat honey nutrients -
http://www.newswise.com/articles/1998/7/DKHONEY.UIL.html)
------------------------------
Subject: Odd aroma from orange blossom mead
From: Scott Gemmett <sgemmett@cisco.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:45:13 -0700
I made a small batch of orange blossom mead a few months ago
> 3# Orange blossom honey
> water to 1 gallon
> 1/4 t yeast nutrient
> Lavlin RC212 w/ starter
I did not take a OG because of the small batch size - I'm guessing in the 1.100
to 1.110 range. I checked it after 3 months and it was about 1.030 which
is typical for my meads, they always ferment very very slowly.
Anyhow, the big surprise came when I tasted the small amount that
I racked out to check the gravity and it tasted exactly like grapes...
Not grape like wine, just like fresh off the vine concord grapes or open
up a jar of grape jelly and sniff grape.
I thought this would have a vague taste of citrus since I used orange blossom
honey and had no idea how I got such a strong grape aroma - the yeast
maybe?
Anyone else have a similar experience or any ideas on what is going
on here?
Thanks,
Scott, San Jose CA
------------------------------
End of Mead Lover's Digest #761
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