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Mead Lovers Digest #0759
Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #759, 13 September 1999
From: mead-request@talisman.com
Mead Lover's Digest #759 13 September 1999
Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Re: stuck ferments ("Robert J. Waddell")
Total newbie at this - Or, virgin mead-maker!! (ReezTeez@aol.com)
Lalvin D-47 (LYNDALAND@aol.com)
bad yeast warning ("Chuck Wettergreen")
Re: Lager mead ("Charles T. Major")
well looky here - mead... ("Spies, Jay")
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #758, 9 September 1999 ("Jeff")
yeast nutrition (Warren Place)
Re: Mead Lover's Digest #758, 9 September 1999 (blood@teleport.com)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: stuck ferments
From: "Robert J. Waddell" <rjw@dimensional.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:17:56 -0600
I'm a long time subscriber and first time poster.
There's lots of good input on why meads get stuck and how to get them
un-stuck, but nobody has touched on the CO2 saturation phenomena. I have
had almost every one of my meads stop before they were done. With some
vigorous swirling of the carboy, bucket or whatever, I've dumped large
volumes of CO2 to the atmosphere to help our friends that produce folic
acid, and my meads have started right back up again. Doing this every
couple of days gets me right down to my target gravity. I'm sure that Dave
Burley will have the scientific reasons for anyone that wants them, but I'm
just happy knowing that it works.
rjw
------------------------------
Subject: Total newbie at this - Or, virgin mead-maker!!
From: ReezTeez@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 22:30:57 EDT
Hi there,
I'm a beekeeper in CT, and I signed on this list in order to listen awhile
and to learn about making mead. I thought it would be fun, and since I've got
lots of honey at my disposal, I thought it would go to good use. I'm very
niave though, and from what I hear it seems you have to be a chemistry major
to succeed at this hobby! Is that true? I bought a book entitled "Mad About
Mead". Is that a good reference, or is there a better one? I'd really love
to hook up with someone in CT to see what their operation is like, and what I
might be in for with this wanna-be hobby. And maybe even try some, because
I've never even tasted this nectar yet. I'd like to see which direction I'd
like to go with it, or what I should aim for as far as the type of mead I
want to make. Are there any clubs in my area? How about a workshop? I could
really use one because the more I read, the more hesitant I am to even start
doing anything for fear of the complexity of it all. It's almost overwhelming
the information and formulas that you guys are writing about! :)) Is there a
brew supply store anywhere near me that anyone knows about? Where do you get
your supplies? How should I start? I have a never ending supply of honey and
a very large glass bottle, probably 5 gallons. (It's like the type that are
on water coolers, but very old.)
Thanks for your help,
Re
------------------------------
Subject: Lalvin D-47
From: LYNDALAND@aol.com
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 01:24:22 EDT
<< Subject: Lalvin D-47 Yeast Report
From: "Carl Wilson" <carlw@sonetcom.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 1999 16:30:32 -0500
>>
Just want to add my $.02 I have used this twice now, once for a pumpkin
mead, the other for a very strong braggot. Must say, both times it fermented
well, left a nice light note of fruit, and cleared very well. Much better
than the meads made with ale or champagne yeasts.
Doug Thomas
------------------------------
Subject: bad yeast warning
From: "Chuck Wettergreen" <chuckmw@mcs.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 08:44:42 -0500
In MLD #758 Clogar <clogar@concentric.net> wrote:
> Quick note on the recipe: Why not use yeast nutrient in your
> mead? Since you're not using any fruit, your mead is going to be
lacking
<snip>
> buying a well-rounded nutrient as well and using it. In my meads, I
> always use double the recommended nutrient and they turn out fine.
and then
> I use both EC-1118 and K1-V1116 all the time and have had no
> problems. Heck, they are often used to RESTART stuck fermentations.
The yeast profile for K1-V1116 states that it has low nutrient needs. I
never use nutrients when using this yeast and regularly ferment show
meads from 1.100 down to 1.005 with no problems. Excessive yeast
nutrients could possibly add a mineral taste to your meads.
An interesting page that lists profiles of a number of yeasts is at
http://vinescape.com/scottlab/fermentation.htm
In the same MLD Terry Estrin <estrin@sfu.ca> asked:
> I have always been a big fan of buckwheat honey, so as you can see by
the
> proportions, I made it strong. However, at this point, it is *so*
> buckwheat-y that it is unpalatable. I spoke to a fellow meadmaker a
few
> years ago who said that buckwheat mead needs to age at least five
years,
> at which point it gets a sherry-like character. Since I have over 70
> half-size bottles of the stuff, I am hoping that this transformation
will
> take place! Has anyone out there had any experience with a buckwheat
show
> mead?
I again tasted my one try at a 100% buckwheat show mead last week.
(I try it about once a year to see how it's progressing.) It's about 4
years old. It still tastes like s***. Wait. 8^>)
Also Dave Burley <Dave_Burley@compuserve.com> suggested:
> Measure the pH. On a small quantity of your
> mead - with some of the yeast included
> - - add some calcium carbonate ( chalk) to
> adjust the pH up a point or two and see if
> that doesn't allow the fermentation to restart.
This is good advice for this situation, BUT, too much CaCO3
will cause your mead to taste bitter, so great care must be
taken to not add too much.
Also Stace Roland <umc@xmission.com> said:
> I too have a stalled mead.
> This is my first attempt at mead making. I boiled the ingredients:
> 4 lbs clover honey
> 1 1/2 gal. water
This means that you had an original gravity somewhere around 1.120.
> Pitched .25 oz of "mead yeast"
Hmmmmmmm. Wonder what kind?
> It didn't ferment at all...
Well, the high original gravity probably stunned it.
> Now it has stalled again.
> I have no idea what the OG was.
> Checked at pitching of 2nd... 1.040
> Now it's at 1.025
Well, this yeast has taken your gravity from 1.120 to 1.025. Pretty
high alcohol. About 80% attenuation. Pretty stong yeast, probably
some form of champagne. I think that you've taken this one down
just about as low as it's going to get. If you were shooting for a dry
mead, I don't think you're going to get it. Next time, start with a
little
less honey, or a little more water.
Nathan Kanous <nlkanous@pharmacy.wisc.edu> asked about serviceberries:
> I've got a tree growing in my back yard...the neighbor and I looked at some
> books and thought it might be a serviceberry tree. It says these berries
As I remember it, this was discussed last year in the MLD. Also
known as mountain ash? The consensus was that it was OK to
use in a mead. (Ever since that discussion I've been eyeing my
neighbor's mountain ash tree.)
On another matter...
I presently am having a bad yeast problem. During our (Wout
Klingens and I) recent trip to Brittany we found that most
commercial mead makers that we talked to used sauternes yeast.
I thought that I would try a Breton mead using what I had learned
in France. I asked my homebrew shop to get me some sauternes
yeast. He ordered some from Steinbarts. Big mistake, they sent
Vierka Sauternes yeast.
I should have realized there was a problem when the package
directions said to just add it dry to the must without rehydrating.
"Fermentation will start within 2 days." So I dumped it in. The
sight of leaves, twigs and grape seeds floating on top of my
must didn't do a lot for my confidence in the biological cleanliness
of this yeast. Also, the yeast hadn't been freeze/spray dried, it
looked like they had just skimmed the cap off of a wine and dried
it in the sun.
It's been four days and there is NO fermentation, and mold is
starting to grow on the top. This yeast is DEAD.
Steinbarts offered no joy. "Oh, it always looks like that."
"Well, yes, it always starts a little slow." "Why didn't you
make a starter?" Pointing out that the yeast is not viable I
asked if they were going to continue to sell it. "Well of
course, why shouldn't we?"
Today I strain that CRAP out of my must, pasteurize, and start
again with Zymaflore ST.
A word to the wise...
Chuck
chuckmw@mcs.net
Geneva, IL
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Lager mead
From: "Charles T. Major" <ctmajor@samford.edu>
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:24:43 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
Warrens asks about using lager yeast for meads.
Several years ago, I made a lager mead using Wyeast
Bavarian lager yeast fermented at 50F, and it turned out
nicely. I did a variation on a medieval mead recipe at
http://www.uab.edu/reynolds/MS1/frames.html
I used 1 gallon of tupelo honey (~12 lbs), one pound of
light dry malt extract (to provide some nutrients), and 4
gallons of water. I boiled for about 15 mins, chilled, and
pitched onto the yeast cake out of the primary from a batch
of bock made with the Bavarian yeast.
The resulting mead was very clean, and somewhat sweet, with
an OG of around 1.090 and an fg (from memory) of around
1.020.
Cheers,
Tidmarsh Major
Birmingham, Alabama
------------------------------
Subject: well looky here - mead...
From: "Spies, Jay" <Spies@dhcd.state.md.us>
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:41:02 -0400
All -
I was cleaning out the basement a week ago and discovered half a carboy of
melomel that I had forgotten about. I'd guess about 3 gallons left in the 6
gallon carboy. I had covered the mouth with 2 layers of aluminum foil and
capped it tightly with an orange carboy cap. Subsequent perusal of brew
records showed that this mead was almost 3 years old. However, I capped and
stored it in the days before I knew about the dangers of oxidation. I was
expecting the mead to be yummy, but alas, it's pretty oxidized. Stale and
sherry-ish is the best way to describe it.
Is there any way to get rid of this flavor other than blending? Throwing it
away is not an option... Perhaps adding newly fermenting mead on top of it
would help scrub some of the flavors out?? I don't know. Anyone have any
thoughts here?
TIA
Jay Spies
Wishful Thinking Basement Brewery
Baltimore, MD
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #758, 9 September 1999
From: "Jeff" <gothsqwd@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:09:43 -0400
>
> Subject: Lager yeast for mead?
> From: Warren Place <wrp2@axe.humboldt.edu>
> Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 20:25:50 -0700 (PDT)
>
> Has anybody tried using lager yeast for mead? What strain and what were
> the results? I'm just wondering what yeast will make the best mead: ale,
> lager, or wine yeast?
>
> Warren Place
> wrp2@axe.humboldt.edu
> www.humboldt.edu/~wrp2
>
> ------------------------------
>
I used Australian Ale yeast for a traditional and for a peach melomel. both
fermented out very well and seem to have ended medium-sweet, but with a sour
aftertaste that can pucker you up good. The good news is that it's getting
better with age. after 6 months it was VERY sour. after 9 months it was
much better and after a year it's continuing to improve. Hopefully by the 2
year mark it will be ready to go. All the flavours came through well.
Jeff
gothsqwd@exis.net
Magic Mead Makers
------------------------------
Subject: yeast nutrition
From: Warren Place <wrp2@axe.humboldt.edu>
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 17:32:00 -0700 (PDT)
I've been trying to figure out a nutrient recipe for mead. I have
been adding yeast energizer and diammonium phosphate (DAP) until now and
counting on my water to provide the rest of the minerals. Well, I moved
to Davis, CA, where the water tastes as though it has been filtered
through the landfill before going into the system. Now I use RO water
that has very little in the way of minerals (at least, that's my
understanding)
Action and Duncan recommend the following per gallon:
5 gms ammonium phosphate
2 gms potassium phosphate
1 gm magnesium sulphate
2.5 gms Vit B1
This seems like it would deficient in niacin, folic acid,
pantothenate, calcium and zinc. Does anyone using RO water have a recipe
that covers all the bases? I know honey is low in nutrients so I didn't
want to rely on it for anything other than fermentable sugars.
Also, what is in yeast energizer? Is it the same as yeast
extract?
Warren Place
wrp2@axe.humboldt.edu
www.humboldt.edu/~wrp2
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #758, 9 September 1999
From: blood@teleport.com
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 03:21:21 -0500 (CDT)
>------------------------------
>
>Subject: Buckwheat mead
>From: Terry Estrin <estrin@sfu.ca>
>Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 18:24:30 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Hi all,
>
> Back in January of '96 I started a batch of buckwheat mead with the
>following proportions:
>
>
>* 9 kg (19.8 1bs) unpasteurized buckwheat honey
>* Water to 34 litres
>* Lalvin K1-1116 yeast (did starter), 2 packets
>
>After a very vigorous primary fermentation, I bulk stored it for about two
> years, then bottled it.
>I have always been a big fan of buckwheat honey, so as you can see by the
>proportions, I made it strong. However, at this point, it is *so*
>buckwheat-y that it is unpalatable. I spoke to a fellow meadmaker a few
>years ago who said that buckwheat mead needs to age at least five years,
>at which point it gets a sherry-like character. Since I have over 70
>half-size bottles of the stuff, I am hoping that this transformation will
>take place! Has anyone out there had any experience with a buckwheat show
>mead?
>thanks,
>
>Terry Estrin
>Vancouver BC
>
>------------------------------
We had a similar batch of mead (although luckily it was just a 1 gal jug)
we did with straight buckwheat honey which was likewise "unpalatable." One
trick the might help is to dilute it with a mild honey, which will of
course sweeten it further, but tempers nicely the buckwheat flavor. I did
this just manually by the glass when serving it, mixing in 1 teaspoon or so
of light wildflower honey per glass.
To our surprise the result tasted radically different, and quite good.
Try an experiment with one bottle, and if you can figure out a good ratio
you could always augment the whole batch and rebottle.
Just an idea.
Michael
------------------------------
End of Mead Lover's Digest #759
*******************************
