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Mead Lovers Digest #0727
Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #727, 22 February 1999
From: mead-request@talisman.com
Mead Lover's Digest #727 22 February 1999
Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor
Contents:
A Question About Additives - To Strain or Not to Strain? (Carl Wilson)
Irish Hazel-mead experiment (Faulconess@aol.com)
flopped cyser (E9c6zum@aol.com)
MLD #726 - Mead yeasts and use of sulfite (William Millett)
Source for Heather Honey (Ian Klinck)
Re: MLD 719 Mead & Oxidation (Dan McFeeley)
Re: Peach mead (Tidmarsh Major)
competition (JJozwiak@aol.com)
Jamaica flowers (LYNDALAND@aol.com)
How long does honey keep? (RACEGT6@aol.com)
Wyeast Sweet Mead yeast ("Stanley E. Prevost")
Blending (Jerome Miller)
Digbie, Digby, and Digbi ("David Turnbull")
Re: has anyone heard of a flower called 'jamaica'? ("Linda or Darin")
Comments on a commercial mead (Dan Cole)
aging in kegs (John Wilkinson)
mail order honey ("Chuck Wettergreen")
RE: My First Mead (Cyser) - A Total Flop (Matt Birchfield)
Documentation: One more silly question..... (Faulconess@aol.com)
Yeast test / Tea mead? ("Mike Kidulich")
Re: Re-capping twist-off bottles ("Mike Kidulich")
NOTE: Digest only appears when there is enough material to send one.
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: A Question About Additives - To Strain or Not to Strain?
From: Carl Wilson <carl_w@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 20:18:16 -0600
When using additives such as chopped raisins (for yeast nutrient) and
lemon peels (for acid) or any sort of fruit should you strain these
additives out before you put your must into the carboy? Or would it be
better just to pour the lemon peels, fruit and chopped raisins into the
carboy along with the must?
------------------------------
Subject: Irish Hazel-mead experiment
From: Faulconess@aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 23:27:49 EST
Greetings, fellow lushes!!
I have some commentary to share, and at the end, some questions. A couple of
months ago someone on this list mentioned that the ancient Irish brewed a
mead and used hazelnuts to flavor it.
As a mead-maker, and a vehemently Irish SCAdian, I was intrigued, and couldn't
get the idea out of my mind. I knew my next mead project would be a big batch
of piment (Elizabethan mead) and a smaller batch of the experimental hazel-
mead. Here is the recipe I concocted tonight:
8 lbs clover honey
3 gallons apple juice (*I usually use this instead of water, for smoothness,
nutrient and color)
6 cups pureed hazelnuts
2 (small) bottles hazlenut syrup
1 package Lalvin all-purpose wine yeast
I noticed several things right away. When pureed, the hazelnuts did indeed
exude a fragrant white sap-like liquid---that "milk of the hazelnut",
described earlier, which the Irish revered in their religious rituals.
A warning if you attempt this reciupe: it lost a LOT of its volume. Once I
simmered the must, I had to keep skimming and skimming and skimming....and
SKIMMING... to get rid of the hazelnut mush, lest it turn the mixture cloudy.
I swear, I've never had to skim a mead recipe so much before! Even when I
swore I gotten it all, I'd turn my back and behold! flecks of nutmeat would
start rising to the surface as if from NOWHERE, and congealing in a six-inch-
thick thick layer on the top. (As I speak, pectin-like globules of white
stuff have materialized like ghosts in the carboy, when I thought I'd
thoroughly strained out all of the crud!)
I am compensating by just adding more juice and honey to the must. But with
the nut-mash strained out, I fear that wonderful, woodsy hazelnut flavor might
disappear too. :( :( : So far, though, the must tastes and smells WONDERFUL.
Since it is so rare, I hope to present a bottle of the finished hazel-mead to
the Crown.
Here, then, are my questions.
- -I know other people read the original post about this recipe. Has anyone
besides me tried to duplicate it since then? What are your results?
- -Does this hazel-mead have an Irish name? (Like "Mil agus Cno Coll" or
something? I speak OK Gaelic, but I'm kinda reaching here! :P )
- -Is the resulting brew considered a mead, melomel, metheglin or what?
- -What other flavorings could we throw in?
- -What specific passages in Irish literature can be cited to document that this
recipe is period? (This is in case I want to enter it in an A&S competition.)
- -Aside from it being the "drink of heroes", what other significance did hazel-
mead have to the Irish? Did they drink it more than, say, uisce beatha or
beer?
------------------------------
Subject: flopped cyser
From: E9c6zum@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 06:22:52 EST
It sounds to me like your cyser is too darned thick. It happened to me back
in the fall. Remember, if you're after a sweet mead, you add #4 honey per
gallon of water. Then you add the cider instead, and I had a hell of a time
getting it started (mine did contain preservatives, I wasn't thinking). I
diluted it by half (a 6.5 gallon batch turned into 2 carboys, or slightly over
6 cases), and then it took off. It finished rather dry, though, you might
wanna just rack off a gallon, maybe a little less, and top off with water.
Then repitch, and see what happens.
Lane
------------------------------
Subject: MLD #726 - Mead yeasts and use of sulfite
From: William Millett <wmillett@fractal.com.br>
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 10:40:14 -0300
Greetings to all!
The following sites have information on yeasts and use of sulfites:
Yeasts - www.lallemand.com/brew/Inferment/Inferment.htm
Sulfites - www.bcwine.com/vawa/usingso2.htm
General information on fermentation - www.winekey.com/fermenta.htm
Previous issues of Zymurgy have evaluations of yeasts specific for meads.
I'll check the exact issues and post the references.
Good luck.
William.
------------------------------
Subject: Source for Heather Honey
From: Ian Klinck <rhys@ican.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 23:13:58 -0500
Someone was talking about trying to find Heather Honey.
I got my Heather Honey from Castlemark Honey:
8000 Edgewood Church Rd.
Frederick, MD 21702
(301)473-8015
(888)335-6464
castlemark@fred.net
castlemark-honey.com
(At least, that's the info off the business card I got from them...)
They had a wide variety of specialty honeys. Yeah, the Heather Honey's
more expensive than anything else...
Ian
- --
Ian Klinck / Rhys ap Bledri - <http://home.ican.net/~rhys>
rhys@ealdormere.sca.org or rhys@ican.net - ICQ # 13175337
Oxymoron 30. Business ethics
------------------------------
Subject: Re: MLD 719 Mead & Oxidation
From: Dan McFeeley <mcfeeley@keynet.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 09:25:33 -0600
In MLD 719 I quoted a section I'd run across in a wine making text that
seemed to apply to mead's reputed sensitivity to oxidation. It was as
follows:
Because phenolics and other compounds, such as SO2, bind with
oxygen, they contribute to the resistance of wine to oxidation.
Collectively, these contribute to the buffering capacity of a
wine. A poorly buffered wine at oxygen satuation has a high
redox potential due to the lack of oxygen-binding compounds.
A well-buffered wine having high capacity for oxygen uptake
will have a much lower redox potential.
_Wine Analysis & Production_, Chapman & Hall, 1995, p. 218.
I'd mistakenly taken the above references to buffering capacity to apply
to the stuff I'd read on honey and it's being poorly buffered. Several
private repliers pointed out that I was confusing two kinds of buffering,
acid buffering and redox buffering. Good point!
As a brief explanation, "redox" is a simplification of the larger term,
oxidation-reduction, and refers to the interdependence of two chemical
reactions involved in electron exchange. The loss of an electron by an
atom is called oxidation, and the gain of an electron is called reduction.
The transfer can be complete or incomplete, resulting in an ionic or
covalent bond, respectively. For example:
2 H(2) + O(2) --> 2 H(2)O
Here, hydrogen is the electron donor in the reaction, and is a reducing
agent. Oxygen is the electron acceptor, or oxidizing agent. Both
oxidation and reduction work together in the chemical reaction to produce
water from hydrogen and oxygen.
Honey and wine musts are extremely complex bio-chemical environments, much
more than the simple example of water from hydrogen and oxygen above. The
redox reactions when the must or finished wine/mead is exposured to air are
likewise complex. So far, I haven't been able to find much that could tell
me more specifically what happens when a honey must or fermenting mead
is exposed to oxygen. The sources I've been using are Eva Crane's
book on honey and the technical material available at the National Honey
Board web site.
I still have many of the same questions I started out with in my first
post on this subject. The impression I had gotten from reading the
more well known stuff on mead making (Morse, Gayre, et. al.) and seeing
the warnings not to splash during racking or introduce the mead to too
much air was that *all* meads are easily ruined from oxidation. This didn't
seem to mesh well with the experiences of posters on this list. Some
reported that their mead had popped a cork during bulk aging and had been
left that way for some time, but with no real harm done. Others said that
the occasional sherry note from oxidation had improved the overall quality
of the mead. My thoughts from reading the text quoted above was that,
although it is probably true that mead is especially vulnerable to oxidation,
some of the adjustments mead makers use, such as adding sulfite and tannin,
also add antioxidants to the mead with the effect of helping to protect
it from exposure to air. Melomels would also have added protection due
to the introduction of phenolic compounds present in the added fruit.
The addition of anti-oxidant agents through various mead making practices
such as making acid adjustments, adding tannin, or using fruit to make
melomels seems to account for the variations in other's experiences
with exposure to air.
The red wine to white wine analogy seems to fit, in a loose sort of way,
with mead making. Red wines can be hurt by too much exposure to air, but
are not as vulnerable as white wines. Making a traditional or show mead,
using little or no additives at all, is roughly similar to making a white
wine, so that the same precautions needed for white wines also apply to
meads. The analogy shouldn't be pushed too far, since honey musts are
not the same thing as grape musts. But it seems that the difference
in redox potential between red and white wines mentioned in the text
above is a good foundation for the biochemical reseasons for mead's
vulnerability to O(2).
What do you all think of this? Am I on the right track here?
Still trying to fumble my way through to a better understanding of what
happens in mead making on a biochemical level.
<><><><><><><><><><>
<><><><><><><><>
Dan McFeeley
mcfeeley@keynet.netr
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Peach mead
From: Tidmarsh Major <ctmajor@samford.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 09:39:54 -0600
I made a peach mead summer before last, using (for 5 gallons) 13 lbs
of orange-blossom honey and 11 lbs of peaches which I washed, pitted,
chopped, froze, and thawed. I put the peaches in the primary,
sulfited, and used Lalvin K1V-1116 yeast. It fermented fairly dry
with a nice peach aroma, and I bottled it still in corked, 750 ml wine
bottles. I suppose that it would also work with canned peaches.
Regards,
Tidmarsh Major
Birmingham, Alabama
------------------------------
Subject: competition
From: JJozwiak@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 15:16:59 EST
Hi,
Enter your meads in the Palmetto State Homebrewers club's first AHA sanctioned
competition. Saturday, April 10, 1999 by 8:30 AM is the entry deadline.
Meads are welcome and encouraged. Click on the link below to get to the clubs
website and contest information.
<A HREF="Palmetto">http://www.scsn.net/~psbrewer/#kor">Palmetto State Brewers Beer Page
</A>
------------------------------
Subject: Jamaica flowers
From: LYNDALAND@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 19:02:26 EST
Jamaica flower is the name for what we in the US call Hibiscus, usually the
red one. This red flower is used in the fairly well known tea, Red Zinger, to
give the zing and the red color. It (the dried flower) makes a wonderful
additive to meads and wines, but I have no idea what the honey tastes like.
Hope this helps
Doug Thomas
------------------------------
Subject: How long does honey keep?
From: RACEGT6@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 23:27:52 EST
Whilst cleaning my basement, I found about 20 lb. of raw honey I'd stashed
away at least two years ago. It is stored in plastic, airtight or very nearly
so, and has been kept at an average temperature of 68 degrees F. There is no
head space to speak of and there is a fine layer of froth resting atop the
honey. I can't recall the variety, but it was dark and came from the Indiana
shore of Lake Michigan. I am not certain, but it appears to be a bit darker
now. I've not opened the containers yet, but if all smells well, I'll make
mead of it next week. Does honey deteriorate with age? Are there any problems
I may run into with this batch? TIA, Charlie
------------------------------
Subject: Wyeast Sweet Mead yeast
From: "Stanley E. Prevost" <sprevost@phase4.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 11:11:36 -0600
Hi, y'all -
I have two meads fermenting, one using Wyeast 3632 dry mead yeast (O.G.
1.064) and one using Wyeast 3184 sweet mead yeast (O.G. 1.114). The sweet
one is bubbling slower than the dry one, both side by side, temperature
mid-60s. I was also concerned with whether the 3184 would take the high
gravity one down to a low enough sugar level so that it would not be
sickenly sweet. So I asked Wyeast. Here is the question and answer:
My question:
=================
>I am using sweet mead 3184 Wyeast. Can you tell me the proper temperature
>range for this yeast? I don't have close control, right now it is mid 60's
>and seems a little slow compared to a 3632 dry mead sitting right next to
>it. The starting sp gr of the sweet mead is a bit high, 1.114. Will this
>yeast take this down to 2-3% sugar?
>
>Your web site says that 3184 is one of two strains for sweet mead, but I
>can't identify the other strain.
>
================
Their response:
===================
Thanks for your note. The mid 60's is the low end for the 3184 strain. That
may be why it is slow. It should finish around 3% residual sweetness. The
other strain recommended for sweet mead is the 3783 Reisling Yeast ( listed
with the wine yeast).
==================
Hope this is informative for others as well. Guess I need to warm up my
sweet mead to around 70F.
Stan Prevost
------------------------------
Subject: Blending
From: Jerome Miller <jmiller@fm-net.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 20:49:19
I have just bottled my first mead, I made a 5 gallon and a 1 gallon. I
set up three 4 L bottles, long term aging, one 1.5 L mid term aging and
the remaining 750 ml. early summer use. The 5 gallon ended up a mild sweet
mead while the 1 gallon ended up rather dry. Not bad, just a bit on the
dry side. I am also in the finishing stages of grape wine, sweet, and
some grapefruit wine.
I have been thinking of blending some of the grape with the mead, any
suggestions???
Thanks
Jerome Miller
------------------------------
Subject: Digbie, Digby, and Digbi
From: "David Turnbull" <dpt@newsguy.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 20:57:50 -0600
I found a US importer of the recently reprinted "The Closet of the Eminently
Learned Sir Kenelme Digbie, Kt., Opened ". I just received my copy in the
mail today. Here's the URL:
http://www.foodbooks.com/prospect.htm
------------------------------
Subject: Re: has anyone heard of a flower called 'jamaica'?
From: "Linda or Darin" <mtss@ptw.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 19:44:59 -0800
> I just bought 500 grams of dried jamaica flowers ($0.50/100 grams--how
> could I refuse?) in Gomez Palacio, Mexico. The street vendors sell an
> interesting iced drink made from them, and the shop owner where I bought
> the flowers said jamaica-flower tea is good for kidney stones. He also
> said you can make about 5 liters of drink per 100 grams dried flowers.
> Does anyone know the botanical name for the flowers, or a reason to not
> make a mead with them, or just have miscellaneous advice?
Steve,
I can't tell you much except that in English, they are called hibiscus, and
I have some in my pantry waiting for the next 1 gal. batch...
Darin Trueblood
------------------------------
Subject: Comments on a commercial mead
From: Dan Cole <dcole@roanoke.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 06:01:19 -0500
Last weekend I tried a bottle of a mead from Life Force Winery in Moscow,
Idaho and enjoyed it. It was a slightly sweet mead (not cloyingly so) and
tasted a lot like an apple wine made around here by a Virginia winery.
Anyone know this mead and have any opinions on it?
Dan Cole
Roanoke, VA
www.hbd.org/starcity/
------------------------------
Subject: aging in kegs
From: John.Wilkinson@aud.alcatel.com (John Wilkinson)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 10:44:18 -0600
Can mead, cider, and/or wine be aged in sealed Cornelius kegs? I have been
using carboys with airlocks but have had problems with airlocks being knocked
off or running dry. It would seem that if no CO2 is being produced the wine
could be aged in a Cornelius keg. I realize these kegs are not completely
air tight unless under pressure but it would seem that any leakage past the
lid O-ring would be minimal and possibly controlled by liberal use of silicone
grease. My understanding is that red wine benefits from exposure to small
amounts of air but it seems that could be satisfied by not purging the
receiving keg with CO2 prior to racking. When aging my beer I use a shortened
out dip tube to leave behind settled crud and would do the same with my mead,
cider, and/or wine. I currently transfer my beer from keg to keg with CO2
but to prevent carbonation of wine, etc., couldn't nitrogen be used? Also,
if pressure in the keg were desired to prevent influx of air during aging
wouldn't nitrogen serve?
I like the idea of using Cornelius kegs for aging, if it would work, as they
are almost as cheap as carboys now, are not fragile, and take up less floor
space. Any advice?
John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - john.wilkinson@aud.alcatel.com
------------------------------
Subject: mail order honey
From: "Chuck Wettergreen" <chuckmw@mcs.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 14:15:17 -0600
I'm looking to buy some honey not normally found in this area (Illinois).
I found this site: http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/page8.html
(Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop)
which seems to have a good variety and reasonable prices, but
1) it's on AOL, not what I consider a "professional" host site for a business.
Additionally, one time last week I got a "doesn't exist on this server"
message when trying to connect to the site.
2) I've e-mailed them, was slow to receive a reply, and they didn't answer
the questions I asked about whether the varieties I wanted were available.
3) I buy in bulk and I, like Dick and his apple trees, am not anxious to drop
a couple of hundred into someone else's pocket.
4) They haven't answered their phone when I've called, nor returned the
message I left on the answering machine.
Has anyone bought honey from these people? Their web site talks about
mead-maker links, but there are none there that I can find. E-mail OK.
PS. Always looking for *inexpensive* bulk honey.
TIA,
Chuck
chuckmw@mcs.net
Geneva, IL
------------------------------
Subject: RE: My First Mead (Cyser) - A Total Flop
From: Matt Birchfield <peridot@usit.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 17:13:27 -0500
Carl Wilson wrote:
> I then made a second starter using only honey, water and yeast energizer
> with NO CIDER. At this point I suspected that my cider may have
> contained preservatives. The next morning the new starter was chugging
> away like mad. I pitched the starter and got some activity a few hours
> later which quickly died out. My conclusion is that the cider
> more-than-likely contained preservatives that were not listed on the
> label.
My first attempt at a cyser was a partial flop ... maybe.
I bought 10 pounds of raw honey and 5 gallon jugs of "Preservative
Free" apple cider, mixed 'em up, pasteurized, cooled, pitched the
yeast, and divided the batch into two three gallon carboys for primary
fermentation. NOTHING HAPPENED!
The guys at the local home-brew shop guys were baffled, so I just
waited.
About a month later I was sick of having my two small carboys wasting
time. When I went to dump them I discovered that one of them had
started fermenting. For the last 6 weeks it has been going steadily,
bubbling at a rate of about 1 bubble per 10-15 seconds. (I tossed the
other half of the batch)
Upon closer inspection of the jug labels (I saved them in a file
because I was too lazy to write down the recipe in detail at the time)
I discovered that 4 of the 5 jugs were preservative free. The 5th
listed preservatives in the ingredients. ALWAYS read EVERY label!
Hope this prevents somebody from wasting time and money this way!
- --
Matt Birchfield
Blacksburg, VA
------------------------------
Subject: Documentation: One more silly question.....
From: Faulconess@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 23:47:04 EST
^v^ I have a post scriptum to my previous posting.
I've just been called upon to enter several bottles of my mead in an A&S
competition next weekend. Problem is, that will require documentation, and I
really haven't any. :/ All the mead recipes I have were either borrowed
from issues of the "Compleat Anachronist" or TI, or passed to me word-of-
mouth, or just wild experiments of my own.
Where does one find good solid documentation for specific recipes like say,
spiced cyser, or raspberry melomel? *YOU* know they're period....*I* know
they're period.....but period to what centuries, and what regions? Or does
word-of-mouth count as documentation in a competition, as long as you cite the
person? (As laid-back as my Shire is...I somehow think not. :/)
/~\D Numquam sitite,
Fionna
------------------------------
Subject: Yeast test / Tea mead?
From: "Mike Kidulich" <mjkid@rochester.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 21:38:16 -5
Greetings,
At our last homebrew club meeting, one of our members brought in
5 bottles of show mead from an experiment he conducted last summer, and
bottled in November. He made 5 gallons of must at an OG of around 1.120,
and split it up into 5 one gallon fermenters, with a different yeast strain in
each fermenter. The yeasts used were a Lalvin wine strain (don't recall
which), Pasteur champagne yeast, a Wyeast Belgian Abbey yeast, Wyeast
Sweet mead, and a yeast from our clubs library, a Wild Cabernet yeast.
We tasted all 5 at the meeting, and the results were interesting, to
say the least. The Wyeast sweet mead was easily the worst of the lot, with
a bitter aftertaste not evident in any of the other samples. Nobody liked it,
and I don't think I will ever use it myself. The Lalvin was pretty good, slight
honey flavor and aroma, nice level of residual sweetness. The champagne
was dry and tart, but not a lot of honey flavor/aroma. The Abbey yeast was
quite pleasant, with some interesting clovey/spicy aromas/flavors. Again,
not a lot of honey character. Then we tasted the Wild Cabernet. WOW!
Huge honey bouquet, intense honey flavor. I had never tasted a mead with
this much honey character. It was far and away everyone's favorite of the
bunch. Needless to say, I contacted our yeast librarian (a microbiologist at
the U of R), to get some of this yeast, and find out the origin.
Apparently, one of our club members ordered 5 gallons of Cabernet
grape juice last fall form somewhere in California. The juice was supposed
to have been stabilized before shipment, but was already fermenting upon
arrival. So, he let it go, and when it finished fermenting, it was actually quit
e
good. Our librarian then took some samples, and isolated this strain. I have
a large plate of it now growing, to be used in my next batch.
Now, a question for the group. I have been planning to do a mead
with Jasmine tea. I have Orange Blossom honey and Jasmine tea. I was
planning to add the tea in the secondary, so as to not scrub off too much
aroma during fermentation. How much tea should I add? I am planning a
one gallon pilot batch, I was thinking about .5 to .75 oz of tea leaves in one
gallon, probably just racking the finished mead on top of the leaves. The
description on the tea package calls it a light, delicate tea. Anybody have
experience in this area?
Cheers,
Mike Kidulich, President Emeritus/BJCP Coordinator
Upstate New York Homebrewers Association
mjkid@rochester.rr.com http://www.ggw.org/unyha/
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Re-capping twist-off bottles
From: "Mike Kidulich" <mjkid@rochester.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 21:59:43 -5
> Is it possible to re-crown cap beer bottles that are screw top? Initially
> I thought that it wouldn't be possible without special screw type caps,
> but then I looked closely at a bud light cap and it looked like an
> ordinary cap that was crimped around the thread by an ordinary capper. The
> mead and homebrew books I have don't mention anything on this.
It is possible to re-cap twist-off bottles, but you do need to be
careful. The necks of twist-off are thinner than the regular crown cap bottles,
and hence are more easily broken while capping, especially if you are using
a swing type double-lever capper. These cappers grip the shoulder of the
bottle, and can cause problems with thinner bottles. Special caps, thinner
and more easily crimped, can help. Check your local homebrew shop. A
bench type capper, while more expensive, can make it a bit easier.
Personally, I would look for crown cap bottles.
Keep in mind that the twist-off bottles are thinner than crown cap
bottles. If you are planning to carbonate your mead, make sure it is
completely finished before bottling. Glass grenades are definitely not cool!
Mike Kidulich, President Emeritus/BJCP Coordinator
Upstate New York Homebrewers Association
mjkid@rochester.rr.com http://www.ggw.org/unyha/
------------------------------
End of Mead Lover's Digest #727
*******************************
