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Cider Digest #1934
Subject: Cider Digest #1934, 23 January 2015
From: cider-request@talisman.com
Cider Digest #1934 23 January 2015
Cider and Perry Discussion Forum
Contents:
Re: Any advice about carbonation and bottle filling would be appreciate (M...)
Reply to David McEwan (CD1933) ()
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Subject: Re: Any advice about carbonation and bottle filling would be appreciate
From: Michael Faul <mfaul@faul.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2015 13:25:55 -0800
Depending on your goal and if it is for commercial use or not will
determine both the amount of CO2 you want and the amount that is allowed
legally before it is taxed as sparkling/carbonated wine.
The TTB limit is .392g/100ML, anything about that is taxed at the
sparkling rate.
Anyway, 3 vols of CO2= 5.88g/L so you would be over that tax bracket
either way.
at 45F you would need to pressurize the tank to 18psi to get to 3 vols.
at 32F you would only need to pressurize to 12-13psi
I wouldn't take the chance trying to pressurize that tank above 14psi if
it is only rated at 15psi unless it has both mechanical and physical
pressure relief valves.
14.5psi=1 BAR
29psi= 2 BAR
Mike
On 1/20/15 12:50 PM, cider-request@talisman.com wrote:
>
> Subject: Any advice about carbonation and bottle filling would be appreciated
> From: Sujin <eesujin@gmail.com>
> Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2015 10:59:09 -0500
>
> New to Cider Digest, new to cider making, and new to carbonating and
> pressure filling...
>
> I've had amazing luck working with an experienced winemaker (with zero
> cider experience) producing our first batch of cider ever! We have sterile
> filtered it, added SO2, and put it into a 7 bbl bright tank to be
> carbonated. At the moment, we're having some difficulty with our cooling
> system, so the cider is at 44 F, but we're aiming to bring it down to as
> close to 32 F as possible. Ultimately we are trying to achieve about 3-3.5
> volumes of CO2 -- I'm not sure how much that translates as bars of
> pressure. What I'm worried about is that the tank is rated for only 15 psi.
> According to the chart that came with the tank, it looks like we can get
> close to our goal as long as we can get the temperature down.
>
> I'm hoping to get other people's experiences with force carbonation, if our
> goal is feasible with this equipment, at what pressure to carbonate, for
> how long, and for how long we need to let it sit once we achieve (I hope)
> our desired carbonation.
>
> We've also built a simple 4-head manual counter pressure filler to use for
> bottling. We're in our testing phases -- learning how to clean and use it
> - -- so we'd appreciate any advice or warnings before we get into the throes
> of carbonating and bottling madness.
>
------------------------------
Subject: Reply to David McEwan (CD1933)
From: <lotic@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2015 20:17:00 -0500
David,
From your description of the apples, you have flyspeck and
(probably) scab.
Check out this link to photos of apple diseases:
http://extension.psu.edu/plants/gardening/fphg/pome/diseases/photos
See if any of the photos match your apples.
Both flyspeck and scab are fungal diseases. You can't cure them, but you
may be able to halt them.
Flyspeck shouldn't hurt the juice as it is only on the skin of the apple.
Cut an apple open and you'll see that it doesn't penetrate the skin.
Scab is a bit more worrisome. If left untreated, it can crack the skin on
the fruit (just like a scab on your knuckle), or infect the entire apple,
and make it unusable.
Your description of the weather also lends credence to a fungal
infection. There are quite a few fungicides out there to choose from.
I don't know what you are authorized to use (organic? licensed
applicator?), or how bad your infection is.
I suggest contacting a nearby university agriculture extension service
(if you have one). If not, take a few of your apples to a grower and ask
their opinion.
This winter, do some serious pruning. More air flow will decrease fungus.
Also, chop up all the leaves that fall on the ground. You don't want the
scab over-wintering in the old infected leaves.
Next year, put on a fungicide before green tip, and follow a schedule.
Keep an eye on the weather. More rain means more spraying.
If you have the time, or inclination, there are scab resistant varieties
out there. Some make a pretty good cider.
The (potential) good news is that you probably have many different types
of fungus and you may be able to make some good farm-style cider!
Peter Mitchell
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End of Cider Digest #1934
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