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Cider Digest #1679
Subject: Cider Digest #1679, 19 December 2011
From: cider-request@talisman.com
Cider Digest #1679 19 December 2011
Cider and Perry Discussion Forum
Contents:
Taking classes in cider-making (Paula Pocher)
pressurizing carboys (Jaime Schier)
Scion trade (WhetstoneCiderWorks)
RE: Hops in Cider (from Heather)
pH testing strip accuracy (Andrew Lea)
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Subject: Taking classes in cider-making
From: Paula Pocher <paula.stoneycreek@embarqmail.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2011 12:13:49 -0500
I know that everyone on this forum is experienced in making cider
while my husband and I are just starting out. We've read a couple of
books and successfully made a small batch of cider in 2010. This led
me to thinking that perhaps experiencing a more intensive learning
approach may help us to increase our knowledge at a quicker pace.
Has anyone ever taken a class in cider-making and if so:
Where? (web-site if available)
Fee?
Was it beneficial?
Thanks for all the knowledge shared in this newsletter!
Paula
Stoneycreek Orchard
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Subject: pressurizing carboys
From: Jaime Schier <jschier@harpoonbrewery.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2011 18:00:22 +0000
I'd like to strongly caution against pressurizing glass carboys. Carboys are
not designed to be pressurized and are subject to catastrophic failure. When
they go they don't go gracefully. I bet many of us have a story about an
unexpected carboy failure. Here is one;
About 2 years ago one of our brewing staff was at home transferring a
batch of homebrew out of a carboy using CO2 pressure at 3 psi, just enough
to move the liquid. The sidewall of the carboy blew out and aand as the
top half collapsed to the floor it cut through his calf, nearly severing
the muscle. There was no impact on the carboy, it just had a weak spot
that let go under that low pressure. An ambulance ride, 60-some stitches,
and 3 weeks later he was able to come to work again. I don't mean to be
a killjoy, but it just isn't worth it.
Jaime Schier
QA/QC Manager
Harpoon Brewery
617.574.9551
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Subject: Scion trade
From: WhetstoneCiderWorks <whetstoneciderworks@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 06:35:51 -0500
Scott-
I do have a lot of Harrison and a little Dabinett, although not =
much else on your wanted list. If you need some I would be happy to =
help out!
Jason MacArthur
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Subject: RE: Hops in Cider
From: from Heather <for_heather@hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2011 18:34:55 +0000
Wandering Aengus Cider makes a dry hopped cider. "Dry hopped" is when
you throw the hops in late and let them sit. Normally, in beer making,
the hops are thrown in during the final boil and removed when done
boiling. Consulting my beer making husband, he says, "I would do a cider
as normal and age it. About two to three weeks before bottling, I would
add the hops. Hop flavor tends to fade over time, so you don't want to
do something early and then age it because you will loose the hops."
He says he would choose a hop that was floral, earthy, or citrus, but he
would have to consult with someone to figure out what kind to meet
that. It would only take about 1-2 oz of hops for 5 gallons. Again, talk
to a
home brew supply store to figure out what kind and how much. If you know
anything about IBU (international bittering units), that will also help
you figure out what to get and how to age it.
Hops come in either flower or pellet form (pellets take up half the
scape for the same weight of flowers). If it is flower, you will need to
put them in a mesh sack, or you will clog your siphon. The pellets are a
little easier and can be dumped in without doing anything and may just
sink to the bottom. Still, you will have some issues with the siphon,
but not as bad. He prefers the pellets.
Heather
------------------------------
Subject: pH testing strip accuracy
From: Andrew Lea <andrew@harphill.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2011 17:31:58 +0000
As some of you will know I am quite keen on measuring the pH of juice
before cidermaking, not least because it helps to decide the correct
level of SO2 to add. In recent years I have tended to suggest that
hobbyists might use pH test strips rather than buy pH meters, because
meters need to be calibrated and cared for and may sit idle for 10
months of the year which does them no favours. Strips seem a simpler and
lower cost solution.
However, there have been questions raised (certainly in the UK) over the
accuracy of these strips. This season I set up a trial to measure all my
juices both with a calibrated pH meter and with three sorts of strips
which are available on the UK market. You can read the final results
here http://www.cider.org.uk/pH_measurement_comparisons.html
I have to say I was taken aback by the poor performance of the strips. I
suspect that even a cheap pH meter would perform better. My current
feeling is that if you can afford to buy and care for a pH meter then do
so. If you can get hold of good quality branded lab pH strips then they
are passable substitutes. The cheapo hobby winemaking pH strips are less
good, but still a good deal better than making no measurement at all!
Andrew Lea
nr Oxford, UK
www.cider.org.uk
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End of Cider Digest #1679
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