Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
Cider Digest #1718
Subject: Cider Digest #1718, 25 June 2012
From: cider-request@talisman.com
Cider Digest #1718 25 June 2012
Cider and Perry Discussion Forum
Contents:
re: Local brewpub seeking advice on developing a draft cider (Mike Faul)
Bad news (Hroth521)
Re: Cider Digest #1717, 20 June 2012 (Ian A Merwin)
RE: Sap drawers and top-working (chris horn)
NOTE: Digest appears whenever there is enough material to send one.
Send ONLY articles for the digest to cider@talisman.com.
Use cider-request@talisman.com for subscribe/unsubscribe/admin requests.
Archives of the Digest are available at www.talisman.com/cider#Archives
Digest Janitor: Dick Dunn
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: re: Local brewpub seeking advice on developing a draft cider
From: Mike Faul <mfaul@faul.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2012 14:17:31 -0700
Chris
you can't make cider in your brewery. Cider can only be made at a
licensed and bonded winery. So first you'd have to get your facility
licensed as a winery then you'll need to figure out where your going to
put the winery as it cannot be the same space as the brewery. A separate
building is the ideal and your state may or may not allow sharing some
space. TTB certainly wont let you alternate the premise between winery
and brewery.
I have both licenses for my Red Branch Cider Company and Red Branch
Brewing Company products. Intimately familiar with the legalities.
That said, once you get past that hurdle you can get plenty of help
from the other commercial makers here.
Mike
On 6/20/2012 1:58 PM, cider-request@talisman.com wrote:
> Subject: Local brewpub seeking advice on developing a draft cider
> From: Christopher McGarvey <thornsbreak@gmail.com>
> Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 17:29:47 -0400
>
> 3) Any unsolicited advice from anyone who has some tips, pointers, or
> cautions about this endeavor. Or anyone that would like to convince me how
> it's really possible to get away with making a proper traditional cider in
> our situation. That would be my dream?
>
> 4) If anyone has done this sort of thing, or knows of a small brewery that
> has gotten into it, please speak up and/or put me in touch.
>
> Thank you very much for your help, and for tolerating my long post. Cheers!
>
> Christopher McGarvey
> Assistant Brewer, Front Street Brewery
------------------------------
Subject: Bad news
From: Hroth521 <hroth521@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2012 21:43:47 -0500
Been informed by my apple guy that this year's harvest has been
cancelled. Orchards in Michigan are reporting 90 % losses. I bought 15
bushels from him last year. He says he won't have enough to make his own
cider. Very sad.
------------------------------
Subject: Re: Cider Digest #1717, 20 June 2012
From: Ian A Merwin <im13@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 23:42:15 +0000
Andrew-
The vigorous original branches left on top-worked trees produce auxin,
which diffuses down into the trunk tissues and suppresses bud growth and
development on your scion buds (a phenomenon called apical dominance).
It's best to only leave one weak side branch to keep sap moving up into
the top-worked trunk. Once the inserted new scion buds have produced some
vigorous shoot growth of their own (usually by mid summer if all goes
well) then you can cut off all of the "sap sucker" growth from the old
trunk tissues.
Cheers
Ian
((((((((((((((((((!)))))))))))))))))))))
Ian A. Merwin, PhD
Herman M. Cohn Professor of Horticulture
Dept. of Horticulture, 118 Plant Science Bldg
Cornell University, Ithaca, NY, USA, 14853
Telephone: 607-255-1777
E-mail: im13@cornell.edu<mailto:im13@cornell.edu>
Website: http://hort.cals.cornell.edu/people/faculty.cfm?
------------------------------
Subject: RE: Sap drawers and top-working
From: chris horn <agent_strangelove@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 08:29:35 -0700
I have always had better rates of success with grafting whips (bench grafts
or field grafting via whip-tongue or cleft) than top working trees. I
normally leave the scions in the fridge a few weeks more for top working
then bench grafting to make sure the fluids are flowing in the tree. I
can't say that I have seen different rates of success in how I cut the
existing tree other than the fact I always trim back some of the growth on
the limb I am working upstream of the grafting area. I continue to remove
new growth from near the graft for most of the first summer.
What are you using to seal up your top working? I use parafilm (Andrew,
you of all people should have that around...) and wrap the whole exposed
surface of the scion, not just the cut area and tip. (The tip of the
new growth on the scion will poke through the parafilm with out issue.)
I will then paint on a bit of sealer (Morrison's tree seal is a local brand)
over the end of the cut limb (or stump if have completely cut down a tree).
Hope this helps...
Chris
'Never make a defense or an apology until you are accused'
- -King Charles I of England
------------------------------
End of Cider Digest #1718
*************************
