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Cider Digest #1577
Subject: Cider Digest #1577, 21 August 2010
From: cider-request@talisman.com
Cider Digest #1577 21 August 2010
Cider and Perry Discussion Forum
Contents:
Re: fireblight: can trees build resistance? (Dick Dunn)
Re: fresh juice longevity (Bill)
cider won't drop clear (Bradley Hunter)
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Digest Janitor: Dick Dunn
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Subject: Re: fireblight: can trees build resistance?
From: Dick Dunn <rcd@talisman.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 18:09:16 -0600
In digest 1576, Gary Fridericksohn wrote, responding to me re fireblight
resistance:
> In my experience rootstock does make a difference. It just doesn't seem to
> get quite as bad on M7a. I certainly don't want to say it is resistant, just
> somewhat more tolerant...
Yes; I didn't make my point clear. When I wrote:
>...Some succumb almost as soon as they start bearing for real--major limbs
> are affected and it spreads through the tree. Rootstock doesn't seem to
> matter.
...what I meant was that for -some- particularly susceptible varieties,
rootstock doesn't seem to help. For many others, rootstock -does- make
a difference.
> ...Some of the Geneva rootstocks are reported to be highly resistant...
But for the troubled varieties (such as Yarlington Mill or HM Jersey here)
M7 (variants, such as EMLA-7) won't help, and even the Geneva G-30 won't
prevent it, nor even reduce it to a manageable level.
The key word is "resistant"--and that's just the right term. Rootstock
can't make the tree "fireblight-proof"; it can only help.
The case I was puzzling over is where a tree gets a moderately serious,
but not crippling, number/size of strikes, but then seems to do much
better in subsequent years. I can't figure out, nor find anything written
about, a tree developing resistance...it just doesn't seem plausible. So
is it all down to environmental effects?
- --
Dick Dunn rcd@talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA
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Subject: Re: fresh juice longevity
From: Bill <squeeze@mars.ark.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:08:36 -0700
John - Not sure your proposed procedure would help much. Fresh juice
pressed under sanitary conditions and *immediately* refrigerated should
keep 10-15 days or longer before any noticeable fermentation, sulphiting
might extend that a bit, but not much unless you use enough to impart
unpleasant flavors. Not sure CO2 would help. If you sulphite fresh juice
be sure anyone consuming it is warned, many folks have a sensitivity to
it - in Canada that labeling is required by health regulations.
Bill <http://mars.ark.com/~squeeze/>
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Subject: cider won't drop clear
From: Bradley Hunter <hunter@midcoast.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 17:35:47 -0400
After years ( decades ) of simply letting time clear my ciders, I
finally have a batch that just refuses to drop clear. Admittedly, I
sometimes get inpatient and add some form of fining agent to get the
cider to the brilliant stage of clarity , but that's only after aging
alone has got it nearly there.
I treated this past fall harvest the same as the last dozen , which
happily cleared on their own.
It is nearly the same mix of apple varieties, same acid and tannin
adjustments , same yeast , same fermentation vessels and same
fermentation temperatures. Pectic enzyme was added and no heating was
involved.
I used Cote des Blanc dry yeast , properly rehydrated, used a basic
yeast nutrient ( DAP ) and had a nice steady ferment. I racked it off
the gross lees in my usual manner.
I have no problem adding a fining agent at this point but I'm just
curious as to why I'm experiencing this situation. Any thoughts as to
why and any suggestions what the preferred clarifier might be ? I have
on hand ,currently, Sparkolloid which I usually use on my wines and
meads or Isinglass which I usually use in my beers.
Thanks for any advice.
Brad
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End of Cider Digest #1577
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