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Cider Digest #1605
Subject: Cider Digest #1605, 31 December 2010
From: cider-request@talisman.com
Cider Digest #1605 31 December 2010
Cider and Perry Discussion Forum
Contents:
Re: Cider Digest #1602, 20 December 2010 (Steven Edholm)
Searching for a weak yeast (John Daly)
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Subject: Re: Cider Digest #1602, 20 December 2010
From: Steven Edholm <stevene@pacific.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 09:05:14 -0800
Jim Cummins:
Thanks for your expert input. M111 is the tried and true stock here with
our droughty summers, drowning winters and woolly aphids. What I'm really
after is 7 to 8 foot trees, but I'll just have to see what the bud 9 does
on M111 in my conditions. It seems like the perfect solution for me given
the available options. As far as Geneva 16 goes, I would suspect that any
weaker dwarfing stock would flounder without significant irrigation here.
I actually almost ordered a lot of Geneva 30 from you this past fall,
but the california inspection fee was a bit much for a small order (not
your fault I know). Then I somehow hit on the inter-stem idea which seems
ideal except for the suckering.
I've decided to go with 10 to 8 foot spacings depending on alleged
tree vigor. I know it is recommended to plant the inter-stem graft
union below ground, but I'm hesitant because of the wooly aphid thing.
I know M111 is resistant, but will it confer that resistance to the
Bud 9? I haven't had trouble with aphids yet, but then again I have
everything on M111 so far and most of my trees are only 4 to 5 years old.
Everyone else around here talks about it being a major problem though.
I was recently reading a history of Comptche a small local community here
and they mentioned a resident who worked as a representative for one of the
big nurseries (I think it was Starks) somewhere in the neighborhood of the
turn of the century. His nick name among all the locals was "Wooly Aphis"
because he was ever proselytizing about aphid resistant stalks, which at
that time must have just been Northern Spy roots. I would like to plant
deep if it will work here just to do away with those pesky burr knots,
which seem like M111's one significant flaw in its size range especially
given the prevalence of borers here.
> Steven Edholm:
>
> Given your site description, the Bud.9/MM.111 system would seem a
> good choice. The MM.111 stock is fairly aggressive and should forage
> well for what water is available. In future, I think you might want
> to trial Geneva 16 instead of interstems and come in to still closer
> spacings.
> I think your 10 ft and 12 ft spacings could be a wee bit loose,
> but I would rather have empty space than have to fight a thicket.
> We strongly suggest that the interstem tree be planted deep, so
> the Bud.9 is half buried. Yes, the Bud.9 will take root; and No, the
> rooted Bud.9 will not come to dominate tree growth.
>
> Jim Cummins
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Subject: Searching for a weak yeast
From: John Daly <jdaly.pmexs@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 20:48:51 -0500
I've just got my first 5 gallons of cider waiting to be bottled, so I'm a
complete newbie to this. However, I was thinking that it would be great to
make a "lawnmower cider" for summertime. About the same alcohol as beer,
something that will go down easy on a hot summer day. The apple juice I use
can give about 6.7% alchohol but I'd like to get the fermentation to stop
around 5% leaving some moderate amount of sugar behind. I realize that
there are chemicals I can add that will stop fermentation, but I'm trying to
keep things as natural as possible. So I'd like to find a yeast that will
quit around 5%. Does anyone know of anything? What about bread yeast
(Fleischman's or whatever can be found in the supermarket)?
Thanks,
John Daly
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End of Cider Digest #1605
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