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Cider Digest #1381

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Published in 
Cider Digest
 · 9 Apr 2024

Subject: Cider Digest #1381, 20 April 2007 
From: cider-request@talisman.com


Cider Digest #1381 20 April 2007

Forum for Discussion of Cider Issues
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor

Contents:
Re: Cider Digest #1380, 16 April 2007 (Bill Rhyne)
ID of Fauxwhelp etc? (John Ray)
Can cider sit too long on its lees? ("Margevicius, Joe")
Perry Pears ("chris horn")

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Cider Digest #1380, 16 April 2007
From: Bill Rhyne <bill_rhyne@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 09:20:32 -0700 (PDT)

RE: Andrew Lea's historical gem find--William Alwood's 1903 Book

Thank you for the referral. I was able to do down load and scan it quickly
with my eyes to see some of the pages. Cool. I like these old books. It
has been 100 years. Maybe it is time for an update?

Bill Rhyne

------------------------------

Subject: ID of Fauxwhelp etc?
From: John Ray <John.Ray@colostate.edu>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 13:09:21 -0600

Molecular genotyping of the cider varieties of the USDA Geneva
collection is underway. The domesticated desert apples have not all
been genotyped yet. We should have at least a first round of genotyping
for the cider apples finished in the next 6 months or so. Then we'll
know how similar or diverse all the varieties maintained in Geneva are.

- --Dr. Gayle Volk
USDA-ARS-National Center for Genetic Resources Preservation
gvolk@lamar.colostate.edu

- --
John A. Ray
Colorado State University
Research Associate
W.D. Holley Floriculture Research Program
Department of Horticulture & Landscape Architecture
111 Shepardson Bldg
Fort Collins CO 80523-1173
970.566.0346 (Mobile)
970.491.4615 (Office)
970.491.7745 (FAX)

------------------------------

Subject: Can cider sit too long on its lees?
From: "Margevicius, Joe" <jmargevicius@walbridge.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 09:00:45 -0400

Go easy on me. This is only my second season of making cider, so I have
some rookie-type questions. The juice was freshly pressed from a
mixture of several common orchard apples, as well as a good helping of
astringent wild ones. Sugar was added to bring the S.G. up to about
1.06. The must was sanitized with Campden tablets, and into three five
gallon carboys I pitched a Champaign yeast, English cider yeast, and a
lager yeast, and fermented under airlocks. One of the batches I added
sweet cherries during fermentation. After about 3 months I racked into
clean carboys, the S.G. had dropped to about 0.998 to 1.000, and all
three had a pleasant, mild taste. No off odors or undue sourness or
bitterness were detected. Tiny streams of bubbles continued throughout
this time.

Two months later, when I racked off for bottling, all three had
developed a decidedly sour taste, a bitter aftertaste, and each has an
unpleasant "chemical' odor, like rubbing alcohol. No vinegar taste or
odor was detected. What happened? What should have been done, either
during the fermenting process, aging, or before bottling? Any help is
appreciated. I need to get this process down! Thanks. Joe.

------------------------------

Subject: Perry Pears
From: "chris horn" <agent_strangelove@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 10:03:31 -0700

I decided to post up a few photos of my perry pear trees. I don?t know how
many folks out there are playing with them now, but hopefully this may help
a few other folks. I?m trying to include a lot of info on what I have
done. I?m no expert but I don?t know that there is a whole lot of info on
folks in the new world playing with perry pears on OHxF rootstock. The
photos and capations can be found at:
http://www1.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=159902350/a=15909148_15909148/t_
=15909148

A few notes on things: I?m in USDA zone 8a. It?s a fairly flat, open field
that was the historical flood plain for the Columbia River (the land is now
about 30? higher than the river and ½ mile distant). The ground is pretty
rich (nice soil down 18-24? and then light clay) and completely devoid of
rocks. The pears are on 15? spacing in the rows and 10? between the rows
(rows running N/S). They were raised in 2-gallon pots or dense (1?
spacings) beds for the first year or two of their post-graft, life before
being spaced out into a final pattern. I don?t use grass kill strips.
Several times a year I hand weed (using a pulaski and an onion weeder)
around each tree for a basin about 18? square devoid of weeds. The trees
are on a timered drip system that I normally run when the soil starts to dry
out (mid-June to early Oct. most years) with each tree having one (1) gph
emitter that runs every other night for 90 mins. Different trees are on
different rootstock due to availability in different years. (You would
think with a very high proportion of the world?s OHxF rootstock being grown
with in an hour?s drive of my place, it wouldn?t be an issue?) This year I
got a bit more serious about playing with perry pears and grafted up about
85 more trees. It was a combination of OHxF 333, OHxF 513 and a handful of
grafts on seedling Bartlett and Pyrus betulaefolia that I had floating
around. Each tree in the orchard has a metal t-post next to it and I don?t
know that these serve much of a use after the first few years for the perry
pears. The pears seem to be happier about staying up right than most cider
apples. Mostly also seem to be very happy to be a central leader tree form.
I have put spreader sticks into some trees if the crotch angles are too
tight. But with good deep soil and little wind on my property, removing the
posts may be a risk you don?t want to take. I generally don?t use
chemicals on the trees. I do spread about ½ c of Ammonia Sulfate (for
nitrogen to encourage new growth) around the base of the trees in the spring
when I weed and work it in a bit. In terms of pests, I have had minor
incidents of pear leaf slug in the trees but when the trees are still small,
I would just pick the slugs off and that was the end of that. I have also
had one or two incidents with aphids attacking the new growth. Generally
the ladybugs (naturally around, I?m not buying packages of them?) keep them
in check but I have sprayed them with neem oil (a tree sap out of India that
works pretty well on soft bodied bugs for an organic bug killer) if I feel
they are getting bad? Neem also works well on pear leaf slugs.

Again, I?m not an expert, just sharing what I have done and trying to give
back a bit to the CD and all the wonderful info that it has provided me.

Thanks for running the CD, Mr. Dunn!

Chris Horn
Scappoose Oregon USA

'If you want to know the taste of a pear, you must change the pear by eating
it yourself. If you want to know the theory and methods of revolution, you
must take part in revolution.'
-Mao Zedong

------------------------------

End of Cider Digest #1381
*************************

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