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Cider Digest #1359
Subject: Cider Digest #1359, 22 December 2006
From: cider-request@talisman.com
Cider Digest #1359 22 December 2006
Forum for Discussion of Cider Issues
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Timing spray programs for codling moth ("Michael and Dori's email")
Long Ashton records (Derek Bisset)
Imidan & Captan ("Mark Parranto")
Bulk aging vs. aging in bottle (Jason MacArthur)
RE: GLOWS ("Richard & Susan Anderson")
A better grinder ("deva maas")
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Subject: Timing spray programs for codling moth
From: "Michael and Dori's email" <goldnik@softcom.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 12:12:54 -0800
Re: Dan Spoelstra's questions on spraying for codling moth.
No matter whether you use imdan, other 'conventional' sprays, or
'organic approved' products, you can eliminate several unnecessary
sprays each season by using pheromone traps to determine the hatch time
for codling moths in your orchard.
Know your enemy. The codling moth lays its eggs in the spring; the
larvae hatch, bore into the fruit, feed, and then leave the fruit,
pupate, and restart their reproductive cycle. The cycle repeats 2 or
more times each year depending on local climate/weather.
Timing your spray to kill the larvae at hatch is the key to minimizing
damage. Pheromone traps are used to determine the optimum time to
spray. Codling moth pheromone traps can be purchased online from
www.groworganic.com (Peaceful Valley Farm Supply in Grass Valley, CA);
get the package of 2 (about $10). Or buy direct from the manufacturer
www.aptivinc.com in Portland, OR. The triangular, delta trap is
equipped with a pheromone capsule and a sticky surface inside; the male
cruises (for babes) at dusk, senses the female pheromone, flies into the
trap, and becomes a statistic.
Set out one trap (or more--I use 2 in my 40' x 120' orchard area) per
instructions when trees are in full bloom and monitor daily. When dusk
temperatures are around 55°F, you will notice one moth; a few days
later, another. Then, when the dusk temperatures are 62°F and above,
an all-out mating frenzy begins and you trap several (like 80-100) of
the unlucky boys in one evening. This event is the biofix. Next, get on
the internet, google: "codling moth degree days" and print the chart
from www.ipm.ucdavis.edu. Each day, look up the high and low
temperature from the day before; record the "degree-days" number where
the two intersect on the chart. When the degree-days equal 250 -300 from
the first biofix, the eggs begin to hatch and the larve burrow into the
fruit. Spray; then, spray again in 7 to 10 days or per label
instructions.
After the first hatch and spray, replace the original traps with a fresh
trap and pheromone capsule. Monitor and repeat procedure as necessary
during the season. In northern Nevada, we generally have three hatches
per year; warmer areas may have four.
Michael Janik
michael@michaelsapples.com
Reno, NV
------------------------------
Subject: Long Ashton records
From: Derek Bisset <derek_bisset@shaw.ca>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 14:16:45 -0800
Andrew is quite correct in assuming that Summerland, BC has the Long
Ashton annual reports. At least they did when I last checked a few
years ago. I found them interesting reading but not all that useful as
reference.
I did come across one report, in about 1932,on cider made with Okanagan
apples sent to Long Ashton for evaluation. The evaluation appeared
quite thorough, giving different ratings to the ciders produced by
varietals common at the time but the report was made rather dubious by
the beginning comment that, of course, these could not be considered
real ciders.
Derek
------------------------------
Subject: Imidan & Captan
From: "Mark Parranto" <applewood@frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2006 23:11:41 -0600
Dan Spoelstra wrote
I use a combination of Imidan and Captan to spray my trees. I spray
from just after petal fall to the end of August( if I don't spray almost
all the fruit is damaged by coddling moths). The fruit remains on the
trees for approx. two months after the last spray before harvesting in
October and November. Before pressing I wash in a tub with a garden
hose. Is that good enough? Or am I still drinking a lot of pesticide?
First, check with Michigan State University Extension for the Michigan Fruit
Management Guide. It is listed as Bulletin E-154. It can be purchased on
the web at www.msue.msu.edu. There is lots of information on codling moth
and what will kill it, and most every other pest, in this book. As far as
Imidan goes, it is excellent for killing this pest. It is considered a mild
insecticide in the organo phosphate family. It is easy on predator mites. It
has a preharvest interval of 7 days. The studies I have seen show that is
gone, broken down by sunlight, in 10-14 days. There is no residue after
that. You are waiting 2 months, so no problem. Codling moths 1st flights
are early in the season, usually around May 31. Moths are what Imidan gets.
Larvae are best killed by other chemicals, such as Assail. CM has developed
resistance to Imidan in Michigan. Look at the bulletin for more information
than you ever wanted to know about CM.
Captan is a fungicide that is used primarily for scab control, and
secondarily for other summer diseases such as sooty blotch and fly spec. It
needs to be mixed with a fungicide of a different chemistry to be most
effective. Nova, Rubigan and Topsin M are some of the fungicides that will
work. Again see the Michigan Bulletin for lots of information. The
preharvest interval for Captan is 0 days. You can spray the fruit and eat
it per the EPA, but I wouldn't. The 0 days is because it is used in
commercial operations, where the fruit will be stored, as a dip for the
newly picked apples. Captan's effective protection period is 5-6 days. It
is gone after that.
Anything that is put on the fruit will be detectible in the juice, but that
is because we can detect anything down to parts per trillion. If a part were
a second then 1 part per trillion would be 1 second in 320 centuries.
Pretty small.
Don't worry about eating pesticides with what you are doing, and check out
the extension book.
Mark Parranto
Applewood orchard, Inc.
------------------------------
Subject: Bulk aging vs. aging in bottle
From: Jason MacArthur <rotread@localnet.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 08:04:52 -0500
I have been pondering the differences between aging cider in bulk,
using a glass carboy fitted with an airlock, and letting the cider age
in a glass bottle fitted with a cork. We like to do our bottling
during the dark days of winter(typically in March), but we find that
our ciders then take several months, and often many more, to really
mellow out and become drinkable.
Would this process occur more or less rapidly in bulk storage? Will
there be a difference in the finished product? Since the cork
breathes, and theoretically a carboy with airlock does not, there is
more oxygen for the bottled cider to react with. What differences in
the finished product have other cidermakers observed?
------------------------------
Subject: RE: GLOWS
From: "Richard & Susan Anderson" <baylonanderson@rockisland.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 12:54:23 -0800
This years GLOWS appears to be a much improved competition, I think that
much of the discussion after last years competition was feed back to the
Competition planners and BJCP; plus the fact that we did get a bit of
recognition for our ciders was nice:). Special thanks need to go out to
fellow Digesters, Gary Awdey for his presentation on understanding cider
characteristics and flaws, To Gary Awdey, Charles McGonegal and Mike Beck
(others?) for representing the cider community in judging, and helping
improve the overall competition. The BJCP has to be thanked for their
willingness to take this task on and the criticism that come with it. We
appreciate the Judges comments, read them carefully and appreciate what you
have to say, at least those that can be translated :). Perhaps laptops next
year?
------------------------------
Subject: A better grinder
From: "deva maas" <devamaas@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2006 06:53:03 -0800
There was a mention of using a garbage disposer as an apple grinder, I
think I can offer some advice. I used a 1/2 hp stainless grinder that I
bought new for about $100. It gave me a "puree" of apple sauce, seeds and
all which surprisingly pressed pretty well. The down-side was the amount of
time it took to grind the apples. I grind and press 15 - 20 bushels a year,
with the garbage disposal grinder this took probably 8 hrs. total grinding
time. I literally had to feed each apple individually and apply pressure to
grind each apple. Also If I didn't take breaks the grinder would overheat
and I would have to wait 30 mins. or so for it to cool. This year for $150
I bought a used 3 hp Honda wood chipper/shredder, took the grinding
components apart and coated everything with a food-grade enamel. Alll my
apples (17 b.) were ground into a nice pulp in 30 minuets, with some seeds
still intact. I was able to quickly grind, set up the press, grind the next
few bushels and then do somthing else while I let the press finish. It
created less of a time consuming press day. My ciders taste normal so far
and I look forward to the possibility of probably pressing up to 100 bushels
or more with this set-up. I guess I would recommend the garbage disposal
method for under 10 bushels but for an extra $50 or $100 I think you can
have a better all around grinder with a wood chipper.
Thanks. Eric
Burdett, NY
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End of Cider Digest #1359
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