APIS Volume 3, Number 10, October 1985
In this issue
- Why Requeen in the Fall?
- On Controlling Robbing
- Again, the Case for New Comb
REQUEENING IN THE FALL
A perennial argument continues about the advantages and disadvantages of fall requeening, but most experienced beekeepers that I've talked to recommend it. There are convincing arguments: (1) queens are usually less expensive in the fall and (2) there's more leeway in case of error. If a queen is not accepted, she may often be replaced without causing a great deal of economic damage because of a lost honey crop.
There are potential disadvantages to fall requeening. Some think queens reared in late summer and early fall are inferior to spring reared queens. Availability may also be a problem. Like most decisions in beekeeping, answers are not always clear cut. It's up to the individual to decide, knowing the risk of failure is always there.
Whichever queens are used, never forget the cardinal rule in requeening. The old queen MUST be removed before the new one can be successfully introduced.
ROBBING BEES
Robbing is the phenomenon that occurs when bees from one colony enter another and "steal" the honey. This is the anthropomorphic view (seen from the human eye). It has been suggested that robbing is not so much stealing as a human-induced foraging strategy taken up by bees in close proximity to each other's colonies. In nature, there are never sixty colonies concentrated in one location as can often be found in Florida. A situation like this is ripe for robbing to develop.
This time of year robbing can become a serious problem in some apiaries. It is particularly virulent when nectar flows are light or non existent. The beekeeper must continually guard against robbing for a number of reasons. Perhaps most important is that it is a major way disease is spread. When robbing gets out of hand, it can also lead to severe stinging incidents . Some robbing probably goes on all the time between colonies and is considered endemic, becoming epidemic when conditions are right.
Once robbing begins, it is almost impossible to stop. About the only thing a beekeeper can do is close up a colony, reduce its entrance and let the robbing run its course. The best way to avoid robbing is to have strong colonies and never allow bees access to honey, syrup drippings or wet combs. Beginners often let robbing build up when they keep colonies open for long periods while making inspections or taking off honey. Weak colonies are particularly vulnerable; they often can be protected by closing down entrances with reducing blocks, grass or straw.
Signs of robbing activity in the apiary include unnecessary excitement and a good number of bees "inspecting" other colonies. Robbing bees have been characterized as "furtive," and "black and greasy," presumably because their hairs have been pulled out by numerous maulings by guard bees. Potential robbers can often be found at the rear of hives attempting to enter through cracks between hive bodies. Robbing will be at a minimum during a nectar flow. The beekeeper should take stock of the robbing potential each time he/she enters the apiary, and maintain a constant awareness of the excitement level of the bees. It's up to the beekeeper to keep control of the situation by being alert and observant in the beeyard.
AGAIN--THE CASE FOR NEW COMB
I don't like to repeat myself, but questions over the last year indicate that many folks didn't pay much attention to a writeup last year about using new comb. This is an important consideration in total colony management. The comb is the literal and figurative foundation of any bee nest; to manipulate it aggressively makes as much sense as to manage the bees and maintain the wooden ware.
Dr. Elbert Jaycox, who left the University of Illinois and joined the faculty of New Mexico State University in Las Cruces, thinks there might be something to the notion of replacing old comb periodically. His case is presented in a recent issue of The Newsletter on Beekeeping, now being published at New Mexico State University. [Editor's Note 5/11/1997--Dr. Jaycox has retired; this newsletter no longer is published.]
According to Dr. Jaycox, a tradition in Europe is to routinely replace comb which is so dark light won't pass through with foundation for new comb. This means comb turnover once every three to four years.
The idea raises a few eyebrows in United States' beekeeping circles. Conventional wisdom has dictated that even very old comb is still serviceable. In fact, over a period of years comb gets so strong it can be handled roughly with little chance of destroying its integrity, and so it might be argued the value increases with age. In addition, foundation is expensive and there's no little labor involved in cleaning frames and wiring in foundation. It also costs the bees energy; to make a pound of wax requires seven or so pounds of honey consumption by a colony.
According to Dr. Jaycox, however, there are advantages to replacing old comb. As it becomes older, the cast skins of generations of bees become incorporated into the cell walls. This causes the size of the cells to shrink. Over time, this may result in adult bees as much as seventeen percent smaller than normal. A study by Kerr and Hebling in 1964, indicates that heavier or larger bees begin housekeeping and foraging tasks earlier than lighter or smaller bees. In some cases, the difference was twelve days, enough, Dr. Jaycox says, to make a colony miss out on many a nectar flow.
There are other disadvantages to old, dark comb as well. It definitely discolors honey, but perhaps of most significance, old comb can be a reservoir of disease. Dr. Jaycox quotes Iowa state apiarist Glen Stanley's experiences. The Stanley outfit attributes better wintering and a great reduction in nosema incidence to routine comb culling. New evidence from studies by Nelson and Gochnauer in Canada also suggests that chalkbrood infection is less in new comb. Old combs appear to stimulate fungal growth. Although Dr. Jaycox doesn't mention it, a case might also be made for using foundation and newly drawn comb to discourage wax moth larvae. They don't do very well on foundation or new white comb, but wax fat and juicy (just right for fish bait) on dark comb, which over the years has accumulated a mix of nutrients beneficial to their growth.
Dr. Jaycox encourages beekeepers to think about getting rid of old comb. Not all at once, but over time. He also suggests beekeepers find out for themselves the value of routinely replacing combs by doing some independent experimentation between colonies with black comb and those with newly drawn foundation. As he says, "Stronger colonies, better wintering, less disease, and lighter-colored honey are goals worth striving for."
Sincerely,
Malcolm T. Sanford
Bldg 970, Box 110620
University of Florida
Gainesville, FL 32611-0620
Phone (352) 392-1801, Ext. 143 FAX: (352)-392-0190
http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/~entweb/apis/apis.htm
INTERNET Address: MTS@GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU
©1985 M.T. Sanford "All Rights Reserved
