DnA 7-4: Car Modifications for Hackers
Written 1-29-94
by Arclight
Welcome back everyone! DNA is alive and well, after PaZ's mysterious disappearance into a Black Hole. The subject of this feature is car modifications, simple and inexpensive things you can add to give your car what it needs to really say "Fuck You." Several categories, including noisemakers, alarms, lighting, ECM, communications, and performance / reliability enhancements will be covered. Each will be covered individually, in a thorough, do-it-yourself treatment.
Materials
It is recommended that before trying to do anything, especially to the electrical systems, you have on hand the following:
- Multi-Tester or test light, to check continuity and +12v/Ground
- Heavy-Duty Wire cutters/crimpers
- Selection of wire crimps & taps, for reliable connections
- Nylon Twist-Ties, for wire harnesses
- Assorted Screwdrivers, Sockets, pliers, etc for removing panels, access, etc.
General Tips
When working on vehicle electrical, you should be aware that shorted circuits can draw in excess of 300 AMPS of current, enough to INSTANTLY melt wires, start fires, and fry delicate electronics. For this reason, it is always a good idea to disconnect the (+) terminal of the battery before tapping the fuse box or other direct sources of power. This is also a good reason to use only high-quality crimp connections in all work. Twisting two wires together and wrapping them in black tape will NOT cut it. I have personally seen peoples' cars catch fire due to inadequate wiring. For this reason, be sure to use good connectors, insulate everything well, fuse EVERYTHING at the power source, and don't hesitate to use a larger guage of wire than you think you will need. Also, wires should be run out of the way and away from hot surfaces such as the engine block. If you are worried about heat, it is best to use TEFLON insulated wire. Wires can be routed in existing conduits, or twist-tied to existing harnesses or structures. When done correctly, your wiring is just as good as the factory wiring, and can look just as professional. Remember: take your time and work like a professional. You can buy or check out books that deal with wiring specifics and vehicle electrical. Auto parts stores carry books as well as most necessary tools and supplies.
Systems
The following are different types of modifications, with installation details, applications, and tips for use.
Lighting
There are many things that can be done with vehicle lighting to improve convenience and add special effects. Auxiliary lighting systems include:
- Bumper-Mounted driving lights. These provide lots of extra light on the road, cut through haze, and have the added advantage of allowing you to drive without parking lights, making you very hard to track during nighttime pursuits. They can be installed in an afternoon, with minimal tools. Installation includes mounting the lights and tapping into a power wire. Driving Lights are available in the $25-50 price range at better auto parts stores.
- Spotlights. These are hand-held police type spotlights that put out 250,000-1,000,000 candlepower. They are useful for checking out things on the roadside, reading signs, blinding people, signalling, and spotlighting pedestrians. They cost from $15 to $50.00 and plug into the cigarette lighter slot.
- Side-to-Side flashing headlights. These are especially good for quick passes of asshole drivers who refuse to pull over. (Watch out for cops!) The circuit can be found in the "Bosch Relay Applications" book, which is available at the parts counters of electronics stores, or directly from Bosch. Basically, you have single pole, double-throw relay, which is wired up to alternately power one headlight, then other, with a flasher-cicuit pulsing it. Parts cost is under $15.00 for most cars.
- Special/Hazard lights. Many auto parts stores sell small, colored backup-type lights. They come in Blue, Amber, and sometimes Red. They can be mounted behind the grille and wired up with a circuit similar to the above for side-to side flashing. They can also be hooked up to the hazard light circuit with taps. These are good for confusing people and drawing attention. Prices vary, but a set of two lights usually costs around $8.00.
- Kill Switches. This category includes switches that allow you to selectively kill certain parts of your lighting system. This could include a switch to kill one headlight, to change the appearance of your car at night, or a switch to kill your tail lights without turning off your headlights. This "stealth mode" option is useful for nighttime chases.
Communications
This category includes radios, CB's, Public address (PA) systems, and other signalling devices. Many choices are available in different price ranges and for different applications.
- Citizen's Band Radios. (CB's) These radios operate in the 27 MhZ band, and give you 40 channels of voice communication. (120 with the more expensive sideband option.) They usually put out 4 Watts of power, and have a range of up to 10 miles or more, depending on terrain and antenna system used. They are invaluable for car-to-car communication and are usually enough for around town and local communications. They are cheap, reliable, and easy to install. They can also be fitted with linear amplifiers, devices that will boost the peak output power to 25, 100, 500, or more Watts, greatly improving range. CB's are best mounted under the dashboard, where it is easy to run wires and they are not easily seen. A large selection of antennas can be had at any Radio Shaft or good electronics store. Antennas range from small, magnet-mount affairs, up to 102" quarter-wave whip antennas. Choose your antenna based on your type of vehicle and how inconspicuous you want to be. The larger antennas perform best, but are less convenient. The magent-mount type do not do well. A good comprimise is a 48" fiberglass antenna, mounted to the bumper or trunk-lip. This can be removed and stowed when not needed. Be sure to tune your antenna after installation, with an SWR meter. Often the dealer will help you with that. CB"s cost anywhere from $40 to over $200. Linear amplifiers usually go for about $1.00 per watt. Antenna cost is in the $10 to $50 range.
- PA (Public Address) System. This has to be one of the best items to have around. It is excellent for getting rid of tailgater's, people who will not move, and people who are being assholes. It is also good for signalling and getting the attention of other people. The easiest way to add a PA system is to buy a CB that has one built in. After installing the CB, buy an 8 Ohm loudspeaker, mount it, and plug it into the "PA Speaker" jack. Try to mount the speaker on the side opposite the driver and far forward (i.e. wheel well) to avoid feedback. More powerful PA systems can be bought for mobile use, but they are expensive. The 4-Watt output from the CB is usually sufficient and can be heard even by people driving at Freeway speeds. CB's with the PA option can be purchased for as little as $40.00, and speakers can be bought for $10 to $20.
- Radios in the 2 meter HAM and Business band are available for mobile use, and probably provide the best range and coverage, especially with the many repeaters in operation. Use is governed by FCC laws, and a license may be required. Price: Expensive.
Alarms
Alarms provide security and convenience, and can help YOU respond to your car being tampered with. Alarms come in many styles and types, and features vary. Top end alarms can unlock your doors, turn on your lights, and even start your vehicle, all from the keychain. Avoid alarms that do not have a transmitter-keychain for arm/disarm, as the type with the key, or that require insertion of the key in the ignition to disarm, can be quite a pain the ass. Good names in alarms include Clifford, Crimestopper, Viper and other brand names. Avoid cheap alarms, as they are more prone to damage and malfunction. When looking at alarms, inspect the case, the connectors, the transmitters, and related. If they look and feel cheap, the alarm probably is. Features that are good to have include, Ignition/Starter Kill, door/pin switch triggering, hood/trunk switches, shock sensor, and power door lock/unlock.
The siren outputs are usually 12VDC, and can be hooked up to various noisemakers or relays controlling other devices. My car alarm output is connected to a Bosch 30A relay, which controls a motor-driven "Air Raid" style siren. High-Current devices, such as that siren, should be connected directly to the battery with a heavy-duty cable and a fuse.
Installation of alarms, depending on features, can be quite involved and is often an all-day job. Prices range from $40-$50, for very basic 2-wire models, to $100 on up for more complete features. As for the noisemakers, those are up to you. My air-raid siren cost $20- at a surplus electronic dealer.
- For basic security, you can install a simple Ignition Kill Switch for under $10. Cut one one of the wires going to the 12V side of your ignition coil and run it to a hidden On-Off switch in the passenger compartment. With the switch turned Off, the car cannot be started. Make sure all components are rated for 10Amps. I like to use 12GA TEFLON wire for maximum reliability.
ECM/Counter Measures
The category of ECM (Electronic Counter Measures) includes devices such as police scanners, RADAR detectors, and LASER detectors. These devices give you information you would not otherwise have, and allow you to act accordingly.
- RADAR Detectors. These devices pick up on the microwave energy radiated by police radar speed tracking units and allow you to (hopefully) slow down before coming into range. The frequencies used by police are termed the X, K, and Ka bands. The X and K bands are those most commonly found in hand-held units used at speed traps. The Ka band is used for Photocop (Robocop,) which is a particularly nasty technology. The Robocop machine reads your speed with its own RADAR, determines if you are speeding, then takes a picture of your license plate. You later receive a ticket in the mail, which you obviously have no way of fighting. PhotoCop is also being used in some placed to enforce "anti-cruising" laws, writing you a ticket if you pass by a certain point too many times in a certain period of time. It is recommended that you buy a detector covering the X, K, and Ka bands. The Super-Wideband Ka is a recently allocated band, which some police are using. Higher priced detectors cover this, but it is unknown how much of a threat it presents. Detectors should be mounted high (visor is good) and the power wire should be wired into an accessory (ignition ON) circuit, with a fuse. Cost for a 3 Band detector is $90 to $200.
- LASER detectors pick up IR pulses from LASER units used by some big-budget police departments in place of RADAR. It is harder to detect and is more accurate, leaving less room for argument. LASER detectors are used in the same way as RADAR detectors, and are available as stand-alone units as well as combo RADAR/LASER types. Cost for a stand-alone detector is approximately $100.
- Police Scanners. Scanners are excellent for keeping up to date on police activity and staying ahead of the game. They are available in different configurations, with different coverage and number of presets. One can choose either a hand-held or a mobile type, and either one can be used with car electrical and a vehicle-mount antenna, for better coverage. A good choice is a 50+ channel handheld, which can be out of the car, and a car-mount antenna. The $25 Radio Shack cellular look-alike is good. 800 MhZ coverage is important if you are interested in cellular frequencies, and also includes certain police/emergency channels. Check the frequencies used in your area to determine what bands you will need coverage for. There are scanner clubs, books, and magazines that can provide frequencies. Prices range from $100 to $400+ and used ones can sometimes be found.
Miscellaneous
There are a few other items that are nice to have available. They can be useful in many instances, and for various reasons merit being included.
- Secondary Electrical System. If you have many electrical drains, such as refrigerators, high-power radio transmitting equipment, and the like, you may want to consider adding a secondary electrical system. This involves installing a second battery and a special charging regulator (available at auto parts stores for around $30) to supplement your regular battery. With the module, charge is maintained in both systems, and you are almost never in danger of running down your starter-battery with auxiliary devices. Be sure to use heavy duty wiring going to the second battery (8GA or even 4GA) and remember that batteries release Hydrogen Gas when charging; allow some ventilation.
- Annoyance Devices. There are various assorted noisemakers, toys, and devices. The "Ice Cream Truck" sound track system, for instance, is available for $20-30 and plays 100 annoying electronic songs. Great for annoying people and making people run out of their houses expecting the Ice Cream Man. The possibilites for nuisance devices are, or course, endless.
- Fire Extingiusher. Mounted in the passenger compartment, a fire extinguisher is good to keep around, and gives your vehicle a nice "industrial" feel. The C02 type are the best, as they leave no residue, but the dry-chemical type is effective and cheap. Cost is $10-50
The above pretty much covers the basics for modifying car electrical. This article should serve only to provide ideas for your projects; the possibilities for modifying and customizing your vehicle are infinite. You may wish to incorporate one or more of these into a total package, with a small panel of switches to put it all at your fingertips. Whatever you choose to do, just work carefully and with respect for the dangers involved. Good Luck!
-Arclight '94
